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Hi everyone,
I'm currently looking to buy a Nexus One, possibly a used one, and I recently saw one pretty cheaply but with the back engraved.
Now, I don't really mind that it is engraved seeing as the back would be covered with my hand most of the time and I wouldn't really see it.
However, I was wondering if anyone had tried to remove the engraving off a Nexus one. I read somewhere that it can be taken off with some cleaning kits. If not that, I may be able to get an engraving shop to engrave over it.
Has anyone had any experience with this, is it possible, or am I just crazy for thinking about it?
Thanks.
Put a sticker on it, or get a rubber/gel case to cover it.
you might be able to scratch off the top layer without any toolds but i doubt you can remove it completely without some type of kit maybe. the engraving i got is partially faded from normal wear and tear so the engraving isnt as defined but its still visible and readable.
I'd try taking a wash cloth and some toothpaste to it.
Toothpaste is a mild abrasive, but it might be enough to remove it?
If not, at least the back of your phone will have a fresh minty smell to it.
let me know what you do....I have an engraving on mine as well, I paid $220for an iphone 3g back in november or so, and traded the iphone for the n1 with engraving on it. I unlocked and jailbroke the iphone for a local carrier but only had 2g network....traded for n1...3g service is pretty solid! loving the n1, engraving on isnt bad just dont care for it
You'll need something a bit more powerful than toothpaste to get rid of laser etching. Basically, you'd have to drill out the surrounding material so that it's just a big blank spot on the back of the phone. This is probably a lot more work, and would require a lot more skill with machinery, than you're willing to put in.
My recommendations:
1) A Case
2) Legally change your name to whatever one is on the phone. If it's a girl's name, optional sex change operation.
ATnTdude said:
2) Legally change your name to whatever one is on the phone. If it's a girl's name, optional sex change operation.
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This is clearly the right answer.
I'm not sure how's the engraving material is like. But I have seen some people try to remove the "T-Mobile" or "Sprint" engraving on the front with sugar cane. Look on youtube and see for yourself. It leaves no scratch for the phone obviously.
I've been trying to find out if there's such a thing as touch-up paint for the N1's unibody. If it exists, or you can find something similar, you could always paint over it? The "engraving" is laser-etched, so it's only a few hundredths of a millimeter thick...meaning it would be covered completely with any layer of paint, which are easily measurable in tenths of millimeters.
Thanks for the answers. I actually found another Nexus one being sold for cheaper which didn't have engraving.
No need for a name/sex change now as that was the only feasible option
I recently bought my N1 on eBay, and it came with engraving. It's not a must-remove since it's just "Simmetry Wireless" instead of a person's name or worse.
Any good stickers for covering it up? Android/Google related?
lets just say i tried paint thinner/remover, didnt help one bit
EdwardUong said:
I'm not sure how's the engraving material is like. But I have seen some people try to remove the "T-Mobile" or "Sprint" engraving on the front with sugar cane. Look on youtube and see for yourself. It leaves no scratch for the phone obviously.
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That's silk-screened paint, not an engraving. If you want to remove the Google and HTC markings from the back, it will probably work.
e4604 said:
lets just say i tried paint thinner/remover, didnt help one bit
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I don't think the metal band, where the engraving is located, is painted. I'm pretty sure it's just "naked" anodized aluminum. As such, paint thinner (either enamel or lacquer) won't work. Oven cleaner probably would deoxidize it, which would remove the etching. It would also remove the entire outer layer of the metal body and melt just about anything else (plastic, electronics, YOU) leaving a clean (as in soda can silver) aluminum frame. You could also get exotic with stuff like nitric acid, but I really don't recommend any of this unless you've done it before. And if you've done it before, you probably wouldn't be asking about it here.
As another FYI, there's several types of paint acrylic (rarely used in electronics), enamel, and lacquer (most common). A thinner for one (e.g. rubbing alcohol will dissolve acrylic, but do nothing to enamel or lacquer) will not work on the others. Lacquer is the "hottest," meaning that it and (especially) it's thinning/stripping agents have a decent chance of eating into whatever surface you're applying it to. So if you really have to strip the paint off your phone, take the damn thing apart before you try.
Seriously, just get a case, a new phone, or do the whole sex change thing I mentioned before.
ATnTdude said:
Seriously, just get a case, a new phone, or do the whole sex change thing I mentioned before.
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LMAO I love this!
Anyone know how to get the front bezel off this thing?
It's begging for a paint job.
Thx!
and perhaps a generous application of rubber cement. I had ONE creek point when i bought it - annoying but livable enough (plus the fact all the bad hours of xmas I was working I never had time to return it in the 30 day period to best buy). now almost 2 months latter theres three...
theres a teardown thread or two on here somewhere but the search button seems to be failing (or my browser....)
- Will.
It must pop off, but I don't want to be the guy to try it...
In the tear down I remember seeing roughly 10 small philips screws holding it from the inside to the metal sub structure. To tighten it you need to remove the back of the device then you will see the screws running around the perimeter. I also remember the screen is held to the bezel with a form of double faced tape.
waremaster said:
In the tear down I remember seeing roughly 10 small philips screws holding it from the inside to the metal sub structure. To tighten it you need to remove the back of the device then you will see the screws running around the perimeter. I also remember the screen is held to the bezel with a form of double faced tape.
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Its funny because the guy at Best Buy was trying to pull the back off of the one I returned... No idea why he was trying to yank the back off of it...
I guess if he had succeeded I would have seen the screws..
Funny enough the display model NookColor at my local best buy was practically falling off. When I first looked at the device I nearly did not buy one because of that but then getting one in my hands at B&N changed my mind.
The front bezel is a "tape and cover" paint job. The screen is glued to the frame pretty solid. I had mine apart to fiddle around and to get the back off for a mold. Most of the screws are Torx #5 or #6. Tape it off good and you should be ok as far as the front bezel. The rear and metal frame you can easily get to by proper disassembly.
Here's the zdnet guide,
http://www.zdnet.com/photos/nookcolor-teardown/487636?seq=21
Here's what I did.
You'll need a torx 5. After you unscrews the 2 screws by the sd slot, use your nail along the chamfer corner to lift the back siding up. Then use a credit card to lift the back up and run along the edge to unhinged the back.
techboydino, are you going to make a new front bezel? might be a small after market for such things. I'd pick up a more solid one if the price was right.
actually metal front and back pieces would rock...
- Will.
I would like to see a silicon back cover case that has a kickstand..
WillCameron said:
techboydino, are you going to make a new front bezel? might be a small after market for such things. I'd pick up a more solid one if the price was right.
actually metal front and back pieces would rock...
- Will.
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I was really considering metal but the fact that most would have to really take special care to actually seperate the bezel from the screen really kind of set me off that. making a case for this is rediculously hard. (compared to my attempts at other devices. if you ever seperated a screen for a cell phone from the glass then you know what I mean. I am trying to replace the back with aluminum and wanted to do a carbon fiber front. so far everything is too thick or just plain looks bad.
Ever heard of masking tape?
3M BLUE painters tape FTW
Glad to find this post!!!
This maybe a little off the subject but does any know where I can purchase a replacement faceplate frame cover.
I accidentally drop my nook color and now it has a nasty crack...
Thank you all in advance!
i took the kickstand off a picture frame...white glued it and had one. Then took it off to fit my new cover...replacement kickstand not put on yet..
nookme said:
This maybe a little off the subject but does any know where I can purchase a replacement faceplate frame cover.
I accidentally drop my nook color and now it has a nasty crack...
Thank you all in advance!
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Your best bet is probably to pick up a smoked one off EBay or one with a cracked screen and a good bezel.
Actually post up WTB (want to buy) dead Nook Color in the XDA market and link to it in this thread. I seem to recall a couple readers here who have more than "gently used" Nooks....
hey guys, i have a prob with my csl mi410 (x6)
when im taking picture, it seems lil bit goldish, when i check at my camera, oh god there are lot of dust inside..
i think it troubling my lense...
anyone know how to clean it?
to dissasembly it??
thanks
Well if the shell design is the same as the Motorola triumph then there are 2 t-5 torx screws towards the bottom, underneath the battery cover. Then the case kinda prys apart. Just be careful not to damage anything.
marc12868 said:
Well if the shell design is the same as the Motorola triumph then there are 2 t-5 torx screws towards the bottom, underneath the battery cover. Then the case kinda prys apart. Just be careful not to damage anything.
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yes, i found only 2 t-screw underneath d battery, but i can*t take it apart, its kinda locked from inside
are there a sensitive cables stick on backcase? can you please make tutor with pic or video??
service centre is soo hard to find here
Well either get a flat head screwdriver or a guitar pick or something like that and kind of run it around the edges lifting gently. There are quite a few locking things on the inside so you kind of have to push against them to get it apart... I might make a tutorial soon.
marc12868 said:
Well either get a flat head screwdriver or a guitar pick or something like that and kind of run it around the edges lifting gently. There are quite a few locking things on the inside so you kind of have to push against them to get it apart... I might make a tutorial soon.
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if it not bothering you please do,
it's will be very usefull, especially for newbie like me..
and it will be the first assemble tutor for x6 i think, b'coz i've been searching almost 3 day and got nothing...
thankyou
Ok well when I get time I will try and make a tutorial. It may be slightly different, because it's gonna be a Motorola Triumph, but it should basically be the same. I'm pretty sure the shells are put together the same, just a different exterior.
anyone??
hi folks. i managed to replace my galaxy note front glass with a new one i got from ebay for 19$ and i want to make a step by step guide on how it can be done.
i did it using common tools and a s load of pacience and attention.
the tools i used are: heat gun with hi and low settings, exacto knife set,small phillips and flat screwdrivers, goo gone, and optional a screen protector.
first take the phone apart as it's describet in countless of threads and youtube videos. you should end up with the screen assembly shown in the first picture.
now we have to separate the glassscreen from the frame it sits on. for this we fire up the heat gun.
a few words about using the heat gun.
-my gun had 2 settings: low and high. during all this process i used it on low.
-don't put the gun directly and/or close to the thinn plastic wires that hold the two connectors.
- dont hold the gun in the same place more than 3 seconds, instead swipe the gun around the spot and the screen like u would do with a paint brush when painting.
- dont hold the gun too close, that is closer than 3 inch
-concentrate on the spot u working at but try to heat up the whole screen assembly, as it has to give away from all the points kind of at the same time, and not just the point u working at.
- dont overheat the screen as this will damage the amoled. thats how i got the two yellow spots on my screen. first one by accident and second one intentionaly to see if indeed the overheating is what caused it.
A very good rule for this is dont heat the phone more than you can bear to touch it cause afterall you have to hold the phone while working on it...
the way i did it is :
-i heated up the whole screen assembly, back and front, for a minute or two
- than i started to stick the tip of the exacto knife between the glass and the metal edge that sorrounds it. i started from the upper right corner, the side where the front camera is. see photo 2.
the goal is to unstick the glass from the frame. in photo 3 the frame and the screen is shown without the upper glass. this photo was taken after i finished everything, thats why the screen can be seen inside the frame. but i posted it to show the black sticky tape that its used to hold the glass to the frame. i think is the same kind of sticky tape thats used in all the touchphones including iphone to hold the front glass to the rest of the phone. in photo 4 i unsticked some of the tape to show it better. this tape is the main thing that holds the the glass to the frame. the other thing that hold the screen to the frame is some sticky glue on the back of the screen. but this is much softer and thiner glue. this is the reason why i say to heat up the whole screen assemby including the backside, to make it easyer to unstuck the glass and scren thats glued to it.
- once you get a bit of a foothold in the upper corner between and the glassand the frame you continue the folowing procedure again and again until the glass and screen detaches from the frame:
-every 2 minutes or so , when i feel the asemby cooled down, i'd heat up the whole assembly for 5 seconds or so, than concentrate on the spot i worked on for another 5 seconds, than move/push the exacto knife a bit. dont force it. after a while youl get a feel of it. if the exacto knife happend to be out, i would heat up the blade after heating up everything else, and than put the blade in.
prevent the freed parts from sticking back to the frame by using the rest of the exacto knife blades as shims.
once it detaches it should look like photo 5- the glass glued to the screen.
- now we have to detach or unglue the glass from the screen.
procedure is the same: start somewhere, heat, put knife in, etc... i used a second knife as shim folowing the first knife, and after avery couple moves i would get the knife out and wipe off the epoxy glue. heat the blade and put it back in.
when finished you should have something like photo 6 and 7: free screen covered in glue epoxy residue.
- now we have to get rid of the glue residue. i took the bulk of it usinga flat exacto knife blades like the one in photo 8 and 10. just warm the place a bit with the air gun and scrape it off with the blade. to clean what was left i used a bit of goo gone on a pice of cloth or napkin photo 9.
cleaned screen can be seen in photo 11 - sadly out of focus.
if u are like me and r impatient to test the screen you can just connect with just the side connector like in photo 12 and 13. the upper connector is for the s pen digitizer. side connector is for the screen and touch digitizer.
now all that's left is to put the phone back together except leave the new glass for last.
-first thing is to put the screen(without the glass) back on the frame. try to center it just right, so that ther's a little bit of space between the sides of the screen and the frame.
at this point all that will hold the screen to the frameis the thin layer of glue on the back of the screen. after centering and lowering the screen in the frame procede to put the phone back together folowing in reverse order the same steps used to disasambe it. when finished you should end up with the whole functioning phone except the front glass -as seen in photo 14.
now you can chose to trim and put a screen protector on the scree so as to fill the empty space between the screen and the glass - the space where the glue was, or you can just leave it empty. you can put a screen protector anytime after by removing the glass. which should be much easier to remove now that its held in place only by the blach sticky tape on the edges. just use some suction cap to remove it, starting at an age, and remove it like fliping a page. see photo 16. i used the note for 2 weeks without the screen protector in the empty space and it worked without a problem onlt thing was that when i pushed hard the glass would touch the screen and leave a bit of dirt in that place. thats why i decided to put the screen protector to fill the void. in photo 15 i raised the screen protector to make it visible in the photo.
if you are like me and worry that somehow the glass might fall off the phone you can always get a hard plastic case for the phone, like the one in the pics. it's made of 2 parts. one goes on the back one on the front and they snap togeter around the phone. this will hold the glass in place no matter what while it will also protect the phone.the case is in photos 17 and 18. i got this one of ebay for 8$ and free shipping.
the last thing to be done is:
for some reaseon the touch screen became much more sensitive after removing the glue so you need to lover the touch sensitivity. for this get the touchscreentune app from the market. it works with galaxy note and galaxy s2. put the sensitivity from the recomended 25 to 50.
the best thing about this procedure is that i dont have to worry about the f ing glass anymore. if it brakes again i'l just order another one and in under 2 minutes i can replace it. all i have to do is get the phone case off, put a suction cap on , , remove the old glass , and put the new glass. that's it.
because it takes 4 to 8 hours i would recommend the process to be done in 3-4 sessions as people would get tired after 2 hours of work and tend to lose focus, attention, patience and start to push to get it faster done, and that's when bad stuff happens like yellow spot burn on the screen or small scratches. another thing about scratches, even if u manage to scrach the screen dont worry to much as the scratches are almost invisible when the screen turns on. youl see what i mean ....
i do have one question: WHY DID SAMSUNG DECIDE TO GLUE THE SCREEN TO THE GLASS INSTEAD OF HAVING THEM SEPARATE LIKE ALL THE OTHER TOUCHPHONES?
I do the same for Galaxy S. I removed broken pieces of glass from device using guitar pick and carefully glued a new glass on each side. 9$ (free delivery) on ebay.
blank for future use
blank for future use
anonymous572 said:
I do the same for Galaxy S. I removed broken pieces of glass from device using guitar pick and carefully glued a new glass on each side. 9$ (free delivery) on ebay.
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what kind of glue did you use? where did u get the glue from? how did u do it?
i didnt glue the glass back to the screen. i just put the glass on the frame. to fill the void where the glue was i trimed a regular screen protector and put it inbetween the glass and the screen. but it works same without it.
Very interesting, I didn't think it was possible because the glass is glued to the SAMOLED panel. I'm very glad that I am wrong.
As much as I hate to think about it, a guide like that would probably come in handy for many of us at some point.
*knocks on wood*
pboesboes said:
Very interesting, I didn't think it was possible because the glass is glued to the SAMOLED panel. I'm very glad that I am wrong.
As much as I hate to think about it, a guide like that would probably come in handy for many of us at some point.
*knocks on wood*
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Nothing is impossible with the right tool and know-how . The glue could probably be uncured with a heat gun, just like ipad. The challenge is not damage the panel and make sure it is dust free after put back the replacement.
It is said impossible because of the difficulty involved. If you can't manage to install a screen protector with perfect alignment and zero dust spike, this task is not for you.
@drevilatwork Thank you for writing this step by step guide!
I dropped my phone last night and it landed face down, cracking the glass.
I'm so upset, but I don't think I have the skills or the tools to do this job myself. I am relieved to learn that the glass can be replaced, but do you know whether the Samsung agents are likely to be able to do this?
they probably wont do it. but you can try showing this thread to some technician or phone repair shop and they might do it for you. they also might charge you a lot to the point where it might be more convenient to just buy a new 260$ screen.
looks scary dude
all im going to say is good luck separating the 2 screens without breaking the lcd or scratching the crap out of it ... this is a 90% epic fail method but thumbs up to the few that may succeed or dont mind their screen looking like its been belt sanded...
Its worth a try, since screen replacement costs 230 euros.
kawgirlval69 said:
all im going to say is good luck separating the 2 screens without breaking the lcd or scratching the crap out of it ... this is a 90% epic fail method but thumbs up to the few that may succeed or dont mind their screen looking like its been belt sanded...
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actually .. the funny thing is that even if u manage to screch the screen and / or leave dirt behind it doesn't show while the phone is on. it might show when is off but not when is on. i was suprised about that too. and secondly, having to do it again knowing what i know now i would do it without leaving a mark. and in the end is certenly worth a shot before ordering the 260$ screen assembly. the special thing that it requires is pacience and attention.
Why different prices for all the same lenses in this shop ?
drevilatwork said:
actually .. the funny thing is that even if u manage to screch the screen and / or leave dirt behind it doesn't show while the phone is on. it might show when is off but not when is on. i was suprised about that too. and secondly, having to do it again knowing what i know now i would do it without leaving a mark. and in the end is certenly worth a shot before ordering the 260$ screen assembly. the special thing that it requires is pacience and attention.
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as i said good luck with it and hope you make some money doing it..... ive successfully done the same thing myself but other than it will never look good like a factory screen (not even close), the amount of time it takes to make it look anywhere near acceptable (not like a 10 dollar repair) is big and that makes the repair not really worthwhile doing it for anyone but yourself and even then who spends 700-800 dollars on something and does a repair that makes it look cheap... then theres the whole ordeal of the membrane youre taking the adhesive off of along with the HUGE chance of damaging it.. it is placed with precision and adhered for a reason along with being dust and scratch free... this is a repair that just wont last because things will start functioning improperly for multiple reasons...
im not knocking you or anyone who tries this..im just trying to emphasize the dangers, downfalls and the probability of it being a legit solid repair. also the resale value when the next greatest thing comes along... just beware....
Hmmmm
Well chaps I hate to disagree here, but after speaking to the technical bods at Samsung it appears that the OLED is NOT glued to the glass, but the glass is laminated and bonded in, much like a car windscreen. My screen got broken the other day and I have read the 2 posts on XDA regarding this. Now if you go and have a look at the pics of the other post
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1487716
you can clearly see the OLED, although broken, seperated from the glass with no sign of any glue. The reason it broke is that upon heating the glass you will melt the glue, which will then stick to the edges of the OLED and if you pry it at the wrong place/time/too hard/whatever you will break the OLED as it is glued to the bezel itself. So when my glass arrives I am going to attempt to remove the glass using fishing line and pulling it between the glass and the bezel and OLED to release it, the same way as I used to remove car windscreens, and post the results here. I have also been told that the reason for the sticky "epoxy" mess that you encountered in this postis from melting the plastic on the back of the glass (which is the lamination!) by using too much heat.....I mean come on, a heat gun is a bit excessive!! Prying the screen out a bit at a time might work, but will surely end in tears, where as cutting the cold adhesive with a fine nylon cable, which wont scratch the OLED, might just work. I'll keep you posted on my results.
Just throwing an idea out there: maybe the adhesive would be easier to defeat when it's really cold, rather than really hot. I know a lot of adhesives become quite brittle when you put them in the freezer, superglue and epoxy for example. And the electronics/plastics of the display could be relatively fine with the low temps.
pboesboes said:
Just throwing an idea out there: maybe the adhesive would be easier to defeat when it's really cold, rather than really hot. I know a lot of adhesives become quite brittle when you put them in the freezer, superglue and epoxy for example. And the electronics/plastics of the display could be relatively fine with the low temps.
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this is not one of them...i can guarantee this 100%
learn how a digitizer is made then you might see the light, and not just the light of white trash repair and failure...
ive explained it in great detail many times... and btw just because im a girl doesnt mean what im saying is wrong... 20+ years in the industry gives me sort of a clue as to what im saying..
im trying to help people avoid a long drawn out disaster and to waste $20(which is NOT gorilla glass) plus all of the other things they buy to try to make this a success which will never happen...
and fyi freezers, superglue and epoxys are big no no's...they are not used by any factory so there is another myth busted... they will just add to the destruction... 100% guarantee
kawgirlval69 said:
this is not one of them...i can guarantee this 100%
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What do you mean? One of what?
learn how a digitizer is made then you might see the light, and not just the light of white trash repair and failure...
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I know how a digitizer is made.
ive explained it in great detail many times... and btw just because im a girl doesnt mean what im saying is wrong... 20+ years in the industry gives me sort of a clue as to what im saying..
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I had no idea you were a girl and I don't see why that matters. Experience is the industry is of course relevant, if your particular field in the industry was related to repairs. But I don't know if it is?
im trying to help people avoid a long drawn out disaster and to waste $20(which is NOT gorilla glass) plus all of the other things they buy to try to make this a success which will never happen...
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The glass on the Note is Gorilla glass: http://www.corninggorillaglass.com/products-with-gorilla/full-products-list
and fyi freezers, superglue and epoxys are big no no's...they are not used by any factory so there is another myth busted... they will just add to the destruction... 100% guarantee
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I didn't say factories use superglue or epoxy, or freezers for that matter. But the fact that factories don't use them doesn't mean it can't work for DIY repairs. Low temperature brittleness isn't exclusive to epoxy or superglue. Many, many glues (and other materials) have that property.
pboesboes said:
What do you mean? One of what?
I know how a digitizer is made.
I had no idea you were a girl and I don't see why that matters. Experience is the industry is of course relevant, if your particular field in the industry was related to repairs. But I don't know if it is?
The glass on the Note is Gorilla glass: http://www.corninggorillaglass.com/products-with-gorilla/full-products-list
I didn't say factories use superglue or epoxy, or freezers for that matter. But the fact that factories don't use them doesn't mean it can't work for DIY repairs. Low temperature brittleness isn't exclusive to epoxy or superglue. Many, many glues (and other materials) have that property.
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i mean exactly what i wrote... as per your idea... this wasnt one that would work... my god man do i have to spell everything out for you???
obviously you dont know how a digitizer is made or you wouldnt have spouted the crap you have... bottom line
the girl part..well some dont think women know anything..its a culture thing.. but as for you not knowing if my particular field in the industry was related to repairs my god ive only said it multiple times in multiple posts... but since you dont like to read i'll say it again..20+ years board level factory trained.. motorola, audiovox, nokia, samsung... and this is a samsung forum so i think i have my tech qualifications covered here... again READING IS GOOD... work on that...
again you just dont read or have horrible comprehension because i never said the notes screen wasnt gorilla glass i said the $19 one wasnt... seriously every time you type something you dig yourself a deeper hole...
your superglue and epoxy blather just shows you dont have a clue and dont read... really they dont have any place in the screen/lcd part of diy.. its just trouble looking for a place to happen... now if the plastic housing needs repaired maybe but still not a top ten choice... if you had a clue you would know the proper adhesive to use... and its easily found... you are just too much...
seriously...just give it a rest... i wasnt bashing on you and have said it ive also said all im trying to do is help people not make a bad decision... and THIS IS A BAD DECISION...
you want me to play nice (which i really am..most other forums here would have totally lowered the boom on you for spouting crap... ive been really nice.. to keep it that way just go post somewhere where you can be productive... here youre not... im sure you have some great ideas but nothing you have said in this thread is remotely good.. sorry but it is what it is...
beep beep
kawgirlval69 said:
i mean exactly what i wrote... as per your idea... this wasnt one that would work... my god man do i have to spell everything out for you???
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The sentence made no sense considering what it was replying to. Not my fault you were unclear/ambiguous.
obviously you dont know how a digitizer is made or you wouldnt have spouted the crap you have... bottom line
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Ok?
the girl part..well some dont think women know anything..its a culture thing.. but as for you not knowing if my particular field in the industry was related to repairs my god ive only said it multiple times in multiple posts... but since you dont like to read i'll say it again..20+ years board level factory trained.. motorola, audiovox, nokia, samsung... and this is a samsung forum so i think i have my tech qualifications covered here... again READING IS GOOD... work on that...
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Reading is very good, but you can't assume everyone in a public forum has read every single post of yours and remembers every detail. What isn't helping is the lack of proper punctuation and formatting which make your posts unpleasant to read.
again you just dont read or have horrible comprehension because i never said the notes screen wasnt gorilla glass i said the $19 one wasnt... seriously every time you type something you dig yourself a deeper hole...
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Replacement screens are generally OEM parts.
It might appear I'm in a hole, but that's only because I live in Holland and am below sea level. I assure you I haven't done any digging.
your superglue and epoxy blather just shows you dont have a clue and dont read... really they dont have any place in the screen/lcd part of diy.. its just trouble looking for a place to happen... now if the plastic housing needs repaired maybe but still not a top ten choice... if you had a clue you would know the proper adhesive to use... and its easily found... you are just too much...
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I wasn't suggesting to use superglue or epoxy, read it again.
seriously...just give it a rest... i wasnt bashing on you and have said it ive also said all im trying to do is help people not make a bad decision... and THIS IS A BAD DECISION
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I get that, and appreciate your concern. However, you should understand that some people like to try things even when the chance of success is not very high. You seem to be one of us in that regard (you attempted repairs yourself too, right?), so I don't see why it upsets you so much.
you want me to play nice (which i really am..most other forums here would have totally lowered the boom on you for spouting crap... ive been really nice.. to keep it that way just go post somewhere where you can be productive... here youre not... im sure you have some great ideas but nothing you have said in this thread is remotely good.. sorry but it is what it is...
beep beep
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I don't care if you play nice or not. I appreciate honesty. Now for some honesty in return: you're not helping in this thread.
All you do is say people's ideas are stupid without giving arguments that aren't arguments from authority. And I would very much appreciate it if you would stop misrepresenting my posts (intentional or not).
THanks xda, please delete.
adriansantos said:
Hi guys, unfortunately I don't have a case and dropped my xz1 just 15mins ago. This is my first aluminum phone, My question is, is there any way I can repaint it? Maybe sand it down, then spray it with silver spray paint? I hope to hear from HTC One owners since that phone was famous and aluminum too.
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I think it really depends on how big / bad the dent is. It if isn't very big . noticible at all, I'd not bother with it. If it's something that' really annoys you, I would get a little bit of filler to fill up the dent (if it's big enough to warrant it), then sand it down nice and smooth and tape up anything that shouldn't be painted. I don't have this phone so I don't know what all parts have the same colors / could be negatively impacted by paint. Maybe use a small dot sticker to cover the headphone jack and use an auto-grade spray pain from an auto parts store to re-touch the surfaces that need it.. Then give it however long is recommended by the paint manufacturer to dry and remove the tape. If the port covers stick, very carefully use an razor blade to cut just the paint. (again, I don't have this phone so I don't know how dangerous this step might be) Be sure to avoid cutting any thing besides the paint that may be necessary for water proofing.
I assume no risk if you mess up your phone. It's kind of time and labor intensive, so if the dent isn't that bad, It may be best to just live with it.