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Hey all, I have been reading like crazy for months, have donated to the site and to some of the developers as well as pledging to the driver cause and doing my best to contact everyone from HTC to people in the press who have covered the issues as well as contacting people/organizations who haven't covered the issues yet.
I have searched and read everything I can about getting audio IN to the Kaiser and haven't seen much activity concerning the subject, so I thought it would be cool to create a thread that deals with this issue. I am going to use this thread to document my experiments. I believe this is the best way I can give back to the community aside from the financial support I show developers etc.
I am a pro musician & producer and want to use Meteor to record song ideas while I am traveling. I am looking to get line level signals into my HTC TYtN II and using the Meteor multi track recorder
http://www.4pockets.com/product_info.php?p=82
It would be very cool to use Meteor to write and record song ideas when I travel. It doesn't have to be super high quality audio, I just want to have a recording of my song ideas so I don't forget them. I have a little electronics device I plug my guitar in that makes it sound like a guitar amplifier. Think of it as a type of audio player for guitars that has an output like an ipod or whatever. I have a little drum machine and a synth keyboard and things like that (they all use line level signals). I do not want to use a microphone I want to use a line level signal from other devices.
Using this diagram
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Trinity_EMUConnector
.... I am looking to get an electronics technician to make me a custom plug that will let me get audio into the TyTN II. I suspect that it will be a mic level signal as opposed to a line level signal but I am not sure about this. I have a great deal of experience with music gear, and very little experience with hand held devices in terms of understanding the hardware.
I suspect that whatever audio does get into the Kaiser will be treated as a mic signal, even if a direct signal is used (unless sendign data via USB is possible). I am going to try and get the tech to make a couple of custom cables using HTC's proprietary ExtUSB connector, but if I cant get one made for ExtUSB, I will get cables made that will work using one or more of the the inputs on a 3 in 1 adapter as seen here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-in-1-USB-3-5m...ryZ15040QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I am assuming audio applications will be able to "see" the audio once it is sent via the connection.
Some things I am looking into:
1. What format the TyTN II will use for audio that is sent in to it through a custom cable?
2. What kind of quality will the audio will be? WHat kind of control will we have over that audio?
3. Will it be stereo capable or just mono? I am fairly certain that only mono audio is possible via the mic input part of the ExtUSB input.
4. I wonder if audio can be imported in real time via USB connection or if audio can only be imported via the pins that enable a mic for phone use?
Like I said, I will share what I find out and if anyone happens to have ideas or knowledge please reply in this thread.
There are other uses too, aside from using multi track audio applications. If I can get this to work (I am pretty sure I can) , how would you use it?If you have ideas, perhaps you can sHare ways we could take advantage of importing audio into the Kaiser.
Bump this, i have been thinking about this also, if it had 2 seperate headphone and mic plugs, the adaptors for say a guitar or bass would be basic, since the mic is mono and so are the insturments. If i had the tools for micro-miniature soldering, i'd be able to do it easily. but i dont, so if any1 wants to make a couple, i would purchase it in a heartbeat.
You can use meteor or any recorder on the handset, if you're in a quiet room the internal mic does record sound pretty good. if there was a way to do multi tracks at the same time(multiple leads) now that would be something.
Yep, big bump from me. MeTeor is fantastic, having a little recording studio anywhere is great. However, getting a line-in would just open up everything!
Caleb
I bought a pair of sennheiser hd558 yesterday (for home use on my laptop) and i am surprised how they sound hooked up on my SGS (with voodoo to get everything out of the wolfson chip), the only problem is that my laptop has a onboard sound chip (Realtek ALC883) wich gives a crappy output.
As i am a student on a kind of tight budget i was having some "brainfarts" about making the SGS think it is a soundcard while connected to the laptop. That way i can play everything on the laptop as usuall and the output goes thru the SGS.
Is this possible ? If it is, is there someone willing to help me do it ? Because there is very little information available about this (only about wireless and i dont want to send a laggy stream to my phone with the possibility of losing quality).
I have already looked at VLC/UPnP options but the only thing available seems to be a bunch of players i can install on my SGS wich stream (thus thru wifi wich i DONT want) the files off my laptop.
Basically, i want my SGS to act as a fully operational usb soundcard for my laptop when i tell it to do so.
PS: I use foobar2000 as music player, setting this up with ASIO4ALL would solve the problem of having a transmitter, the problem still left is the phone accepting it.
Wow now aren't you expecting too much out of your SGS!
Anyways I don't even know if something like this is even possible... but it would be quite interesting if it could, but I highly doubt it!
My friend from South Korea sent me an early birthday gift and low and behold it was a cool Chromecast key :victory::laugh: WOW THANKS but... I have a unique setup a 180" screen and Projector. This AMAZING projector (W7000) has no audio out and no way to utilize audio from Chromecast :crying: How sad... Well I discovered these audio extractors to get audio out but frankly I would love to retain max color, 3d, and 7.1 on DD+ this is not going to be easy. Then I got to thinking how come no one has developed an app which can sync the 2 outputs (multicast) from DDWRT or other at the router / gateway. Or in another way perhaps.
Two questions remain
1) Audio extractor where can I get a cheap but good one ? (seen them exceeding 200 dollars common)
THE BIG QUESTION IS
anyone know how to do this yet or perhaps if I should sell the thing and get a different setup for these projectors I have 3. (kinda committed to the output device already hehe.):cyclops:
This is what I used because the Chromecast wasn't compatible with my TV. (I had video but no audio)
www,ebay,com/itm/291119088532 $29 - has optical audio out.
Impossible to sync audio to two separate sources that are networked...
What you really want to do is get yourself a good AV Amplifier (with HDMI Inputs), not an Audio Breakout.
You will get full Surround support and would plug the CCast into the Amp and send the video from the amp to the Projector.
To answer the second question in your subject, root won't help you here. As @Asphyx said, it's near-impossible to accurately maintain A/V sync between separate networked devices. It requires sub-second synchronization and without some other constant reference not subject to network transmission delay it's very prone to failure.
funkypc said:
This is what I used because the Chromecast wasn't compatible with my TV. (I had video but no audio)
www,ebay,com/itm/291119088532 $29 - has optical audio out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't want to loose the 3d though and according to Wiki (not their ad on ebay) there is no 3d until 1.4 : so how come they are advertising 1.3 with 3d ?
Ohh btw does this device work 1:1 for lag or is there a few ms' wait ?
Thanks guys this really helps
futiless said:
Don't want to loose the 3d though and according to Wiki (not their ad on ebay) there is no 3d until 1.4 : so how come they are advertising 1.3 with 3d ?
Ohh btw does this device work 1:1 for lag or is there a few ms' wait ?
Thanks guys this really helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AFAIK Chromecast doesn't support 120 Hz output (so no full-res 3D), though side-by-side 3D should work on pre-HDMI 1.4 as it's not doubling the rate to get L/R.
There shouldn't be any noticeable lag introduced as it's simply a de-embed at the endpoint.
I have already got MK808 android stick, which is 1.2 GHz dual core with Mali 400 GPU.
After using it long as general purpose device, decided to convert it as media centric device, with 2.1 speaker setup
I am facing following limitations,
1. Not able to play HD/1080 videos smoothly
2. Tried USB sound card to connect it to 2.1 speaker, but quality is not good
So I started to look for alternate devices. I liked RPI 2 especially due to it's support, but before buy, I have some questions unanswered
1. Since I have 1.2 GHz device, I am just wondering with RPI 2 being 900 MHz, is it powerful enough device as media PC. Especially can we consider it for future proof (may be 3 years)? I am thinking because, I don't want to fall in situation to buy another device only after next 1 year due to RPI2 limitation.
2. When I add case, WiFi dongle, power cable, HDMI cable etc, it's going to about 75 USD. At this price, there are many choices like,
# Android stick MXIII, which seems more powerful with android support
# Dedicated media player like,
http://www.amazon.in/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=media+player
But I don't know, how to compare those with RPI 2 and conclude which one will be more powerful and future proof
Any suggestion?
RmatriX1218 said:
I have already got MK808 android stick, which is 1.2 GHz dual core with Mali 400 GPU.
After using it long as general purpose device, decided to convert it as media centric device, with 2.1 speaker setup
I am facing following limitations,
1. Not able to play HD/1080 videos smoothly
2. Tried USB sound card to connect it to 2.1 speaker, but quality is not good
So I started to look for alternate devices. I liked RPI 2 especially due to it's support, but before buy, I have some questions unanswered
1. Since I have 1.2 GHz device, I am just wondering with RPI 2 being 900 MHz, is it powerful enough device as media PC. Especially can we consider it for future proof (may be 3 years)? I am thinking because, I don't want to fall in situation to buy another device only after next 1 year due to RPI2 limitation.
2. When I add case, WiFi dongle, power cable, HDMI cable etc, it's going to about 75 USD. At this price, there are many choices like,
# Android stick MXIII, which seems more powerful with android support
# Dedicated media player like,
http://www.amazon.in/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=media+player
But I don't know, how to compare those with RPI 2 and conclude which one will be more powerful and future proof
Any suggestion?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been using Raspberry Pi 2 B+ for a month as media center with the Rasplex OS. I have tried 1080p, 720p and a few different formats like mp4 mkv, avi etc and they all work fine, even while seeking. The main reason for this could be that the processing/trans-coding of the video is done on the server(the files are not stored on Pi, and no HDD is connected to it.) This all works on a WiFi adapter.
If You can use Plex app on Your Android Stick and use a plex server somewhere, You won't need to buy a Pi. Although You would need to buy Plex pass to come over restriction in Android app I think.
Rpi 1 can run almost limitless video bitrate via smb share. But it has issues with very heavy audio since 1 pi's processing power is not great basically. But mines 1 still run movies with 10mbps video and 5mbps audio well. Above that it starts to buffer maybe its network bottlenecking. Audio quality via hdmi is great. I got a pi 2 just a while ago looking forward to test it with openelec. I have chromecast stick too i think that i wouldn't need rpi if i didn't had media at local share. Chromecast is far more better if u use only netflix, viaplay, youtube, popcorn, etc and can use it with android device phone/tablet.
Thanks for replies.
Has anyone connected it to 2.1 speaker system?
Because, that is my one of the aim.
Can anyone tell quality if connected to AV cable/stereo jack?
And, is it possible to get video through HDMI cable and audio through AV cable to 2.1 speaker?
Can someone, who already have similar configuration, help me out to build similar one.
RmatriX1218 said:
Thanks for replies.
Has anyone connected it to 2.1 speaker system?
Because, that is my one of the aim.
Can anyone tell quality if connected to AV cable/stereo jack?
And, is it possible to get video through HDMI cable and audio through AV cable to 2.1 speaker?
Can someone, who already have similar configuration, help me out to build similar one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it can output both video through HDMI cable and audio through AV cable at the same time.
Nypan sr said:
Yes, it can output both video through HDMI cable and audio through AV cable at the same time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you rate quality through AV cable out?
I believe, AV out doesn't give good quality as HDMI.
Through USB sound card on my MK808, I am loosing bass. Woofer doesn't give any sound.
I am worried, same should not be with RPI as I'll loose all fun of watching movies.
Anybody with 2.1 speaker setup hear?
RmatriX1218 said:
How do you rate quality through AV cable out?
I believe, AV out doesn't give good quality as HDMI.
Through USB sound card on my MK808, I am loosing bass. Woofer doesn't give any sound.
I am worried, same should not be with RPI as I'll loose all fun of watching movies.
Anybody with 2.1 speaker setup hear?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HDMI is better. My 2.1 system is connected to my LG-tv, so i dont know what quality the 3,5 mm output is.
Nypan sr said:
HDMI is better. My 2.1 system is connected to my LG-tv, so i dont know what quality the 3,5 mm output is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, my LED TC has onlu audio jack. So, if I connect 2.1 system with it, I get very low volume.
So, only option to get sound from RPI AV jack.
Can you check in your system with AV jack and report the difference in output?
Any though on
RPI2 vs MXIII vs MXQ?
RmatriX1218 said:
How do you rate quality through AV cable out?
I believe, AV out doesn't give good quality as HDMI.
Through USB sound card on my MK808, I am loosing bass. Woofer doesn't give any sound.
I am worried, same should not be with RPI as I'll loose all fun of watching movies.
Anybody with 2.1 speaker setup hear?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Composite video out quality is pretty good. On OpenELEC, playing 720p live stream Russia Today. Output is classic PAL resolution. Image quality is better than 576p SD DVB-S thru SCART with good quality sat reciever. I have big old widescreen CRT Panasonic Quintrix TV.
If you play any 720p movie, quality will be comparable to DVD player with SCART.
I dont know how is your audio input for these 2.1 speakers. Just single 3 pole 3.5mm or also separate one for subwoofer? If it need 2 connectors then you need 5.1 sound card with (usually orange) center/subwoofer connector.
I think you should turn up your headphone volume on your tv
Sent from my thl T6S using XDA Free mobile app
Ideal for local media or media on a NAS but not being able to access Netflix, Hulu etc (like you can on Android) might be a bit of a put off. Shame really coz the Pi2 is more than powerful enough to support these streaming services
In all my previous phones, I've always had root for 2 things. Viper4Android (or ARISE) and Adaway. I can deal with the ads because to get to sites like couchtuner I just use the plethora of available adblock apps for the Samsung browser app. However, I cannot listen to the utter crap audio output of the S8 in its factory unrooted state.
If Viper4Android needs root access to the system partition to bypass the standard linux ALSA driver for sound adjustment, then how does Poweramp bypass it without root? See for yourself. If you use the standard (or any other music player without an EQ) and go into sound properties and adjust the software EQ under Settings --> Sounds and Vibration --> Sound Quality and Effects, the EQ changes the sound. However, if you install and run Poweramp, then when going to this EQ setting, it does not change the sound.
Here's my beef. The Samsung 'system wide' software EQ - when adjusting it, all it's doing is lowering the gain and boosting only that one frequency so your actual volume output is reduced to prevent clipping. On a rooted phone with V4A installed, this does not happen. It truly raises or lowers those specific frequencies. Does the API in Android Nougat prevent anything other than software manipulation? My main use for V4A is to use the "Dynamic System" feature to give more low end boost when the volume is not high, as well as adjusting harsh frequencies. V4A is sheer bliss on the V20. This also works extremely well in vehicles.
Your retort to this is naturally going to be "well just use Poweramp then". The problem with this is anyone that the Poweramp EQ is bound by software and even though it doesn't mess with the volume output, it's effect is terrible compared to V4A. Meaning, the 31hz slider on the EQ boosts around 50hz. The 16khz slider is more around 10khz and the 8khz band - let's not go there.
I'm trying to find out if anyone knows of any other audio application with a built in EQ that bypasses the system EQ Samsung put in the S8 that does not lower gain to try to reach the desired effect. Or suggest anything else I can try? I'm using the S8 with a pair of Westone 4R IEM's and B&O H6 cans. Any audiophile advice is welcome. I just wish I understood this more.
Thanks in advance!
Hey man, I'm in the same boat, and I have tried everything possible on my unrooted S8+, but I can find no substitute for V4A.
I'm using noozxoide-E , and set it to warm/bright, to get some boost where it needs it. I also enabled larger monitors as well.
But I can't find anything that does a clean gain boost or normalize function.
Sent from my SM-G955U using XDA-Developers Legacy app
Best solution I've found to the universally terrible Android audio problems is to get an external DAC. The Dragonfly Black 1.5 is $99 on Amazon and is plug-and play. The bonus is it works literally on any OS (desktop or mobile) and supports all audio formats including lossless. Samsung will try to redirect it to your default audio player app (in my case Neutron) but it works on any audio app you want if you ignore the notification. Basically it's the easiest way to make audio sound good on phones that haven't been rooted (yet). Works great with my Sennheiser headphones and amps the audio too. I just had to buy the USB-A to USB-C cable, which you can buy just about anywhere for cheap. For a phone that costs $800, you'd expect the internal DAC to work better.
Footnote: I bought it at a local Audiophile store on the owner's recommendation. It even works well with the Samsung bundled headphones but is more effective if you have a high-quality audio output. Hence Neutron or a high-quality streaming service.
I been stuck in this boat. Following
fantasticrat said:
Best solution I've found to the universally terrible Android audio problems is to get an external DAC. The Dragonfly Black 1.5 is $99 on Amazon and is plug-and play. The bonus is it works literally on any OS (desktop or mobile) and supports all audio formats including lossless. Samsung will try to redirect it to your default audio player app (in my case Neutron) but it works on any audio app you want if you ignore the notification. Basically it's the easiest way to make audio sound good on phones that haven't been rooted (yet). Works great with my Sennheiser headphones and amps the audio too. I just had to buy the USB-A to USB-C cable, which you can buy just about anywhere for cheap. For a phone that costs $800, you'd expect the internal DAC to work better.
Footnote: I bought it at a local Audiophile store on the owner's recommendation. It even works well with the Samsung bundled headphones but is more effective if you have a high-quality audio output. Hence Neutron or a high-quality streaming service.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's funny that you bring up the Dragonfly, because I own one of them - and they are excellent external DAC's! I have always used USB Audio Player Pro and has worked great. The only problem with that is I can't have it plugged in for hours listening to it because it eats away at the battery I already have a hard enough time using. The last time I tried using a Mophie battery pack, it wouldn't power the Dragonfly, so I couldn't do that either. I actually carried spare battery in my wallet and swapped it out midday. It's just a pain is all and was hoping for a better solution.
I think what I really should do is just get a LG Q8 (which was just introduced). It's literally a LG v20 - only smaller AND has waterproofing. My only concern is having to buy a phone overseas without a warranty.
Thanks for your input, though. I'm sure a lot of people haven't thought about this as an option!
joesee said:
It's funny that you bring up the Dragonfly, because I own one of them - and they are excellent external DAC's! I have always used USB Audio Player Pro and has worked great. The only problem with that is I can't have it plugged in for hours listening to it because it eats away at the battery I already have a hard enough time using. The last time I tried using a Mophie battery pack, it wouldn't power the Dragonfly, so I couldn't do that either. I actually carried spare battery in my wallet and swapped it out midday. It's just a pain is all and was hoping for a better solution.
I think what I really should do is just get a LG Q8 (which was just introduced). It's literally a LG v20 - only smaller AND has waterproofing. My only concern is having to buy a phone overseas without a warranty.
Thanks for your input, though. I'm sure a lot of people haven't thought about this as an option!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely the Dragonfly drains battery if you use the Red. I use the Black because it actually does better with low drain (i.e., portable) headphones. Higher-powered headphones I mostly use at home anyway. The biggest trouble I've had is convincing the S8 to use Tidal instead of suggesting my default audio player (currently Neutron, which at least sounds better than other alternatives I've tried). The advantage to the T-Mobile One unlimited data plan is I can stream lossless audio, and that overcomes a lot of the issues in conjunction with the Dragonfly Black. Oddly enough, the Black seems to *increase* battery life on my Chromebook Plus because my guess is it diverts a lot of the processing effort off the Chromebook's internal hardware. It doesn't have the same longevity on my S8, but I'm considering getting a small C-to-A hub with power throughput for when I'm on roadtrips; that way I can at least charge and listen to music at the same time.
Regarding the warranty, I haven't found that the benefits are really worth it; if you're on these boards and are remotely like me, odds are you'll void the warranty as soon as someone comes out with a way to root the phone. Plus overseas phones are nearly always unlocked (my Chinese-purchased Motorola Defy worked in every country I took it to and could be rooted from the day I bought it).
Quick heads up to my solution.
I got a syncup for $44 brand new from T-Mobile, and put my 6gb free data SIM in it.
I mounted my rooted Galaxy Tab 3 7.0 with a magnetic cd mount, for quick disconnect, so I don't leave it in view when parked. I threw all my streaming apps on it with V4A installed.
Lastly, I installed DIGITS so that all my calls still come through the car's BT just like the music, and obviously I can text as well.
So I now I can stream deezer with V4A running, and it's glorious.
My S8+ is no longer connected to the car, and just sits in the cupholder.
Had to think out of the box
Sent from my SM-G955U using XDA-Developers Legacy app
So this is an interesting turn of events. I dug out my Dragonfly the other day and installed my USB Audio Player PRO (from eXtream Software) and re-installed it. I notice that now they have not only the standard EQ, but also a 5 band parametric EQ. It is an extra $2.99 add on in the application. All in, I think I paid $8 for this app and the add on.
Anyway, this in my opinion is one of the best applications for using an external DAC. BUT - one real nice feature is you can also use the application without a DAC and force the audio through the Android System. So when I pulled out the Dragonfly, plugged my cans in the 3.5mm jack on the S8 and started messing with both EQ's in tandem (without even changing any frequency sliders) I got a MASSIVE boost in gain. This was not software.. it was hardware, because it did not 'compress' the sound to boost the volume like AGC (Automatic Gain Control) found in most audio players. Once I started messing with some of the eq curves (particularly in the parametric EQ) - it is by FAR the closest rival to V4A. In fact, I'd be plenty happy with this solution - IF It worked for all audio apps (Spotify in particular - or even TuneIn).
The biggest point here is V4A can boost the gain and doesn't decrease anything (compress) to get you the adjustments you're looking for on the EQ. The gain adjustment on this Parametric EQ does the same thing. Check it out and let me know how your results are. Really wish there were a way to pipe this through other applications.
That's awesome, good find!
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