Database Develop

[Q] Charging Cable Comes Unplugged?

Does anyone have trouble with their charging cable (micro usb end) coming unplugged/slightly disconnected from the phone during charging? If mine isn't exactly perfect or you ever so slightly bump the phone, it will become unplugged. Any chance the manufacturer's warranty could cover this? I leave it plugged in overnight and wake up to see that only charged 55% because gravity shifted the cable. Definitely cannot use the phone while charging either. Ugh.

Obligatory "make sure the USB door is completely open" comment

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I've had to mangle every cable I have with scissors and sandpaper.
Sent from my Captivate using XDA Premium.

Wow mikey.....would be much easier if they let you have sharp knives in the "hospital"

Why don't you just buy another OEM cable. I got 2 of them last week from Amazon for a little more than $2 each.
They were exactly the same as the OEM 's
MikeyMike01 said:
I've had to mangle every cable I have with scissors and sandpaper.
Sent from my Captivate using XDA Premium.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA Premium App

I had that issue on my captivate too. Charging door would be completely open but it seemed the cable just wouldn't stay in place. I would have to flip it so that the loose part would be on the bottom whenever I used it while charging. It seems that the port is just poorly designed because other cables would do the same thing.
Sent from my Inspire "4g" using XDA app

Are you sure the door is open completely? I was sure mine was too but you really have to put some pressure on it to get it all the way. There is a distinctive click when it reaches full open position.

Yep clicked and every thing it seemed like when plugged in only a part of the metal clips in the cable would actually clip in.
Sent from my Inspire "4G" using XDA app

Yes, I am sure the door is completely open. I can shove the cable all the way in, there is just no force to keep it there. It used to just be a minor problem, but lately it is getting worse.

I have the same problem. Every time I move the phone while it's plugged in, the phone stops charging or loses it's connection to my pc.

I have found the problem is the actual port not the cable. If you use any cable other than the OEM it will stretch the port making the OEM cable loose. I was able to fix this by VERY VERY VERY CAREFULLY with a sharp strong knife by gently prying the top of the port inward to collapse it so the 2 little tabs on the OEM cable to catch. Hope this helps.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

_NULL_ said:
I have found the problem is the actual port not the cable. If you use any cable other than the OEM it will stretch the port making the OEM cable loose. I was able to fix this by VERY VERY VERY CAREFULLY with a sharp strong knife by gently prying the top of the port inward to collapse it so the 2 little tabs on the OEM cable to catch. Hope this helps.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did the exact same thing, just using a small flathead screwdriver from an eyeglass repair kit to bend the micro usb port inward a little bit. I also used a safety pin to gently pry up on the tabs (the ones seen in Mikey's pic) of the micro usb plug itself.

I had that problem with the stock cable. I sharpened a staple and used it to bend the pins (on the cable's micro end). That worked for a couple days but it stopped working again.
With the right cable, I don't have trouble any more. I found this "solution" on accident. I needed some more USB micro cables, so I checked out monoprice, of course. I got some gold plated (with ferrite) and some regular cables. The regular ones hold a little better than the original, but not much. The gold plated are outstanding though. I can hang my phone by just the cable and shake it around without it coming off. I only bought and tried the 1.5ft and 6ft, but they are both exactly the same besides cord length. Any length should work, but I promise nothing! You will have to cut off some of the end to make it fit though. I used a razor blade and sliced the edge plastic right off, super easy. I wouldn't even consider it an issue, but you will have to do it, especially if you have a case.
tl;dr: if you have trouble with your cable, get some gold plated ones from monoprice.com. Here's the 6ft cable: (you have to append it to monoprice.com, not enough posts to post link) /products/product.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5458&seq=1&format=2

My gf cable is loose but mine fits tightly. Same phones btw. I dont think all cables are created equal
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

I only have the problem when the phone is in a case ...which is why I take it out of the case whenever I connect it to a computer.
Currently using the Body Glove case.

Ok, here is another scenario. Sister bought a new captivate two weeks ago and has had the same problem. But a few days ago, it just started working fine and holding. Or, at least that is what I am told. How does that happened? This is confusing!

inductive charging mod for defy

I finally made one.
wanted to do this for a long time.
One of the harder mods i made.
-extremly small solder points.
-should still be water resistant afterwards
-wont charge without data pins connected - but usb should still be usable.
here it is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOSdcRLA-mo
I spend more then 10 hours in total to do this. Was it worth it?
=D hell yeah!

strong electromagnetic field does not damage data on a memory card?

its not long term
yes you can charge like this but with this kind of chargers your phone's life + memory life will reduce because of strong magnetic / electromagnetic field so try use it in emergency only

rucheat said:
yes you can charge like this but with this kind of chargers your phone's life + memory life will reduce because of strong magnetic / electromagnetic field so try use it in emergency only
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i call bull****! sorry to sound like a prick, but i strongly dislike people talking out of there ass about things they don`t know **** about.
This wont damage anything. Infact, this "strong magnetic / electromagnetic field" won`t even reach the phone.
Maybe you read some more about that topic:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductive_charging
http://www.engadget.com/tag/inductive charging/

Hi puked,
I would be very interested in knowing more about this mod you created. Good work by the way.
I was planning on doing something similar, I wanted to modify the car dock to charge the phone automatically when docked. I was thinking of adding 2 contact points on the back cover which would mate up with springs or some such on the car dock. I hate having to plug cables into the phone when putting the phone into the dock, bluetooth takes care of the audio nicely, just needed to get the charging sorted!
I'm particulary interested in hearing your experience of where you tapped into in the Defy. Did you solder directly to the back of the the USB connector? And you mentioned needing to connect the data pins to invoke charging, can you explain a little more?

hi jurgen,
i should have made some photos during the process of making the mod. Sorry for that -.-
Yeah, I soldered directly to the back of the USB port. Only one wire needed for Vcc.
A pinout can be found here:
http://www.talkandroid.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/pinout-microUSB1.png
this is the micro USB port, when you look into it from the front.
A guide, how to disassemble the phone can be found via youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uSH1UuEOvI
you only need to remove the backcover and the plastic shielding over the USB Port - this is easy.
To be able to reach the pin for soldering, you need to remove the antenna, too.
I drilled a hole into the plastic shielding to lead the cable through. You have to do this; there is no room to lead the cable otherwise.
Put the plastic shield back on, and fixate the cable on it.
to lead this point to the top of the battery, I used adhesive copper-foil.
GND can be taken from different points - I used the slot of the sim-card. lead this point to the top, too.
The receiver i used is from the cover of a palm pre.
The problem I had after I finished the mod: Phone won`t charge. Why? Well - dumb Moto decided the phone will only charge if USB is connected. You have to shorten the Data-Pins.
How did I do this? I got myself some micro USB plugs. remove the pins and dremel/saw it so small, that it fits into the slot completely. Remove the metal shielding and insert one of the pins from underneath (there are small holes, that normaly hold the pins in place). you eventually have to melt the plastic between the holes, so that the metal bridge fits. It should be flat and not stick out. You now have to shorten the pins sticking out on top, so that they are exactly as long as the pins would be.
Sound complicated and is complicated and damn frustrating, cause the whole thing is so tiny. we are talking about maybe 2mm at most.
Afterwards you have to isolate the whole thing. Instead of re-attaching. the metal shield, use some duct tape or similar.
This thing is sturdy if done correctly and easily removable, if you should need the USB Port.
I`m sure there are other possibilities do do make such a plug. This method worked for me.
I`ll make some photos later and post some links to a similar project for the Samsung Galaxy+. I hope it`ll be quite clear afterwards.
If someone wants to do this mod, I suggest you to start with the micro USB plug. Would be very frustrating, if you mod the phone first, and fail making a plug. Without it the whole mod is useless.
Maybe someone knows if it is possible to change something in software (CM7), so that the damn phone will charge without the pins connected. I still hope, this is possible, but didn`t get any feedback to this question as of yet.

Thank you for the very detailed response and the links.
I'll look into the links later, the shorting plug sounds like a pain to get right! Hopefully, as you say, there is a software setting/workaround that can bypass this.

Very interesting project!!! Impressive! One question that comes up: How long does it take to fully charge the battery?

Hi puked,
that's awesome work, congratulations for getting it working!
I did the same thing to my defy a couple of months ago, but I had less success unfortunately. I soldered it in and, like you, I noticed it did not charge when power was applied to the port. I eventually figured out that the pins need to be shorted, so did so, and have managed to nearly get it working.
The problem is, it only works if i take the coil out of the back and push it onto the touchstone base so there is little to no air gap. If it's even slightly off centre, the charging constantly restarts and it doesn't work. I haven't managed to get it to work with the coil in the case. I haven't installed the magnets/steel discs, as I wanted to get it working reliably first.
I wanted to ask, did you find it had to be perfectly centred for it to work? Did gluing the magnets in help here? Did you do anything special with the metal sheild behind the coil?
Craig

puked said:
i should have made some photos during the process of making the mod. Sorry for that -.-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Puked,
Can you please take the battery cover of your phone and make a picture of the inside? This might help me to see if I will try to make this mod myself....
Thank you.

Hi Puked
First of all Thanks and Congratulations for making it work. Awaiting photos before I touch the screw drivers

Hi and sorry for not responding for such a long time. I´m very busy at the moment, sorry :/
I promise i will make some more photos this evening and update this post with them.
To answer Craigms questions:
I cut the "metal shield, so that it fits - it`s a bit to wide to fit in without shortening. I diden`t use the little round metal plates from the palm cover (these are no magnets), instead i used sheeting from a tin.
To find the best spot on the touchstone, i used wires to link cover and phone, so that i could move the cover around. when i found the optimal place on the touchstone, i attached the sheeting and fixated it.
I also had to dremel down the plastic inside the battery cover so that it fits and closes without pressure.
Notice: The first touchstones seem to be faulty - they have problems even with the original HP phones.
I have problems aligning the phone as well, sometimes. But that only happens, if battery drops below ~30% - that rarely happens since I modded my phone.
Edit:
pictures:
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Nice work. I've actually just finished a Touchstone Car-Cradle for my Defy.
My problem is the shorting of the data pins... damn those tiny plug .
Puked, you wrote that one doesn't need the metal shielding of the plug but in the picture you've posted there is a metal shield around the plug... Without the shield it seemed to me, that the plug is too lose and the data pins have no connection. On the other hand, with shield it's really hard to remove the plug from the defy... in fact there's currently one stuck in the USB port :|.
Having destroyed three plugs with my oversized soldering iron, I now need to wait for new ones before I can continue :/.
Could you please post a picture of the micro-USB plug alone? So I can maybe follow your lead

Yeah - the plug is a pain in the ass. If I would have known, that the phone wont charge without them connected, I could have solved this problem in a different way.
best thing to do would be to solder 2 more cables to the data pins and shortem them via battery cover - similar how I did it with Vcc and ground - just with data.
You are indeed right - there is a metal shielding. I made a new plug. Will make photos later.
btw. I still believe (hope) that one could make the phone charge without the pins shortened via software.

[Q]-Power port repair

Hi folks. For some reason, a small chunk of the tab inside my DS7 power port has been broken. It looks like somebody got hungry and chewed a tiny piece of it off. So as of right now, the power cable will not charge the DS7. I noticed on ebay somebody selling repair service for it and was quoted
it's $39 for the part plus $59 to install it. best, maik
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
$100 seems a tad expensive as it's over 1/2 what I paid for it. Does anybody have any recommendations like a DIY kit or know of somebody doing cheaper repairs? I like this little, fiesty tablet and am not ready to scrap it quite yet especially if the JB rom gets going.

NapalmDawn said:
Hi folks. For some reason, a small chunk of the tab inside my DS7 power port has been broken. It looks like somebody got hungry and chewed a tiny piece of it off. So as of right now, the power cable will not charge the DS7. I noticed on ebay somebody selling repair service for it and was quoted
$100 seems a tad expensive as it's over 1/2 what I paid for it. Does anybody have any recommendations like a DIY kit or know of somebody doing cheaper repairs? I like this little, fiesty tablet and am not ready to scrap it quite yet especially if the JB rom gets going.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
buy the part and install it your self, there is a disassembly guid in general too

Nocturnal_50 said:
buy the part and install it your self, there is a disassembly guid in general too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Noc and thanks for the info. Does it require any soldering or is this a fairly simple setup?

If it's the port, you either need just the port itself (which requires soldering) or the entire motherboard (which could be pricy)

once the streak is disassembled its a 5min job to remove the old one and attach then new one (given that you are alright at soldering) the risk with this is that you could short the mobo if you suck at soldering

Nocturnal_50 said:
once the streak is disassembled its a 5min job to remove the old one and attach then new one (given that you are alright at soldering) the risk with this is that you could short the mobo if you suck at soldering
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Damn. I have no soldering equipment here nor have I ever done it.

NapalmDawn said:
Damn. I have no soldering equipment here nor have I ever done it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
go to walmart and pick some up for about $15-35

I'll see if mine has some soldering equipment. Sad to lose that Steak just a few weeks after getting it.

My port is broken too, no way i could solder a 30pin connector with my eqiupment. Can anyone post a picture where I can find the two power pins. Are they on the left or on the right side. All I want is to charge it. I see some little circles on the board that could be additional places to solder my two cables, anyone any ideas ? I know it isnt the best solution to have a cable looking out of my streak but i alrdy bought a female mini usb connector. That could be of good use here. If needed i could make a photo of the circle pins on the board so anyone could say me wich one is what.
Heres a picture of my board and the circles that i mentioned above.
s1.directupload.net/images/120816/6wwoczjm.jpg
-----
Edit
-----
Here it is:
s1.directupload.net/images/120816/5lnj8t69.jpg
Can anyone say me wich pins are for usb 2.0 data ?

broken ports
If I am posting to the wrong place I apologize. The real quesrtion is this is why do the pins keep burning off. The second question is why did dell stop all support for the ds7. The ds7 was and is defective from the start. Dell now refuses any support. I have two ds7s with the same problem. So I ask how many of you agree there should be a class action law suit againt dell? My newest unit is four months old called dell the are refusing to do anything about the situation. I asked if I could send my ds7 in for repair and pay for repair, answer was no, dell is no longer doing repairs, to make things more upsetting dell is selling the ds7 at fry's for $200. Who is interest in a class
action lawsuit with me? I will start a suit with or without support. The whole ds7 problem is just plan wrong. Feel free to email me at [email protected]. btw I am almost sixty years old not a young person with a bad attitude. Wrong is wrong and dell is out of line with the ds7. Thanks. Bart

Dell may in longer be selling it. Fry's could just have a last batch if old stock.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

So this power port problem seems to happen rather frequently?

NapalmDawn said:
So this power port problem seems to happen rather frequently?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if its not the tablet its the charger or the proprietary cable (f*** you dell) I have had to repair the cable myself due to its abnormally short length and my habits of trying to use it away from the charger while it was on charge (heat shrink electrical plastic + solder fixed the issue though)
I'd say replacing the part yourself would take about 15min once device is disassembled

Nocturnal_50 said:
if its not the tablet its the charger or the proprietary cable (f*** you dell) I have had to repair the cable myself due to its abnormally short length and my habits of trying to use it away from the charger while it was on charge (heat shrink electrical plastic + solder fixed the issue though)
I'd say replacing the part yourself would take about 15min once device is disassembled
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly the ports on Ebay went back up to around $99. I *thought* I saw one for like 10. All the Dell 5 ports are cheap, the Dell 7 ones are basically almost the price I paid for the thing

Then get a new one, lol. Understand if you can't.

Anybody want to buy a Streak 7 and then repair it? It's rooted already.

NapalmDawn said:
..Hi folks. For some reason, a small chunk of the tab inside my DS7 power port has been broken. It looks like somebody got hungry and chewed a tiny piece of it off. So as of right now, the power cable will not charge the DS7...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had two D7's with the issue. The first was due to a bent pin, took some tweezers and flattened the pin, then slightly bent the the metal casing of the charging cable outward- but bend it more toward the ends of each side, as a result the middle slightly bowed outward but it worked.
...and have to put the plug into the port at an extremely slight angle to go in smooth, once in, it charges fine. been using it that way for about 8months, no sweat.
The reason for slightly "opening" the ends of the the charging cable is so that it fits better over the end pins on the charging port tabs.
It is likely that some of those that have broken/cracked ports and/or bent pins wind up not working still because the edge of the charging cable catches on a pin, so by bending the cable housing just a little, it helps give it the lift to get over any pins that would normally catch and they'll make enough contact to charge and also connect via USB. That's also why plugging in at a slight angle helps the pin get "under" the outer housing of the charging cable.
However, the second one DS7 that had the issue more like what is in the initial post regarding an actual cracked charging port tab.
In mine, there's two small chunks of the top tab and one small chunk off the bottom tab in the power port. Yes, BOTH the bottom and top charging port tabs were damaged!
Mine was due to my little one horsing and tripping over the cord, when it yanked out at an angle...well...it got screwed up. At first it didn't seem like it was going to work, but after a little bit of careful fiddling...
Anyhow, I did have to use the tweezers again AND had to slightly bend the plug as described earlier. That said, I charge this thing daily and no issues, nor have to replace the port. If you fiddle around a little with the plug itself (ie. try bending it open just a little on the ends that match where the charging port tab pins were bent) and plugging in at a slight angle, it may very well help some of the others with this issue.
It's worked for me now on two different devices with very similar isues... so all I can say is these small tweaks worked for me...this DS7 has been charging/USB plugging fine for about 6 months of daily use... hope someone else can benefit.
Here's a few couple of (blurry )pics:
View of the cracked port - top tab was cracked, side view - screen facing "away"
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View of the cracked port - and the bottom tab was cracked/broken also, side view -screen facing "toward"
The end of the cable with the very slight bow outward because of slight spread outward to the ends of the housing

Hi Saint. Did you get a PM from me? I thought I sent one but I can't tell.

NapalmDawn said:
Hi Saint. Did you get a PM from me? I thought I sent one but I can't tell.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes. sent you something back.

I'm necroing this old thread because-IT WORKS! All i needed to do was replace the power cable. Despite the HORRIBLE condition the tab in the power port looks, the Streak 7 still gets charge and works now. Amazing. Onward ho to JB 4.2 from Honeycomb!

How To: R&R USB charge connector port.

I purchased my International Note in May and love it. It's an amazing replacement for my Dell Streak 5. A few weeks back I was charging it via my PS3 and it couldn't decide if it was unplugged/plugged in. At that point it would intermittently charge, and then things got worse when it would think it was plugged into the car dock or it would load the Samsung audio hub.
I did some research and narrowed it down to the USB hub (duh)... I tried cleaning the USB cable and port connections with no results. I figured out I could shut the phone off, plug in the USB and it would charge the battery but it would still randomly load and close the dock apps, or turn on/off the screen randomly. The phone was almost useless at that point.
If you are dealing with the above symptoms, all my research and experience points squarely to replacing the "Charge Connector Port USB Flex Cable" to fix these problems. From what I've read this problem is not an isolated Note problem, or even isolated to just Samsung and can be narrowed down to the 3rd and 4th pin.
Anyway, I found a few retailers on eBay selling the part I figured I needed for fairly reasonable prices. I bought one from a US based retailer, and one from one based out of China. Similar prices from both, and only one day difference in delivery days. I also purchased a iPhone tool kit on eBay for a whopping $5. You need a small Phillips screwdriver, a pair of tweezers, and a pry tool to pop off the flex cables. Oh, and guitar pick. We'll get to that later.
Tools and the Note
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Ok, now, on to this tutorial type thing.
To get started - shut off your phone, and pop off the battery cover. Remove the pen, battery, sim and SD card and set them aside. At this point you'll see nine screws that secure the rear portion of the phone to the metal frame. I used the screwdriver to loosen them to the point of almost being free and then held onto them with the tweezers, then put them in a lens filter case. I lost one.
After the 9 screws have been removed it's time to use the guitar pick to separate the two pieces of the phone. Holding the phone with the screen towards you, slide the pick in on either the volume rocker side, or power button side. You can then slide the pick down towards the bottom of the phone. It may take a bit of work, but just be patient and take your time. Work the sides and bottom of the bezel and it will pop free much like the battery cover does.
Stairway to Heaven
Now, you will be greeted by the powerful innards of the Note!
At this point of the job you will need that nifty little pry tool and more patience. There are 3 screws located on the housing that the speaker is molded into that cover the USB port. Remove those screws, and you'll see the antenna cable attachment and flex cable. Initially I removed all the flex cables. I looked closer and realized all you need to do is remove the antenna cable mounted to the charge port and pop free the two flex cables at the bottom of the phone and one screw on the power button side of the phone.
Three screws to remove the speaker housing.
Once this screw had been removed you can slide the flex cable attached to the charge port free and remove the old part.
Take the new part, slide the flex cable under, bend it up and connect the two flex cables and antenna. Make sure these are secure, the smaller flex cable powers your capacitive buttons! Now, it is just a matter of working in reverse.
I found this to be a very simple job and better than that my Note is back to being awesome again. All of the problems previously mentioned are gone. The phone charges just as it should and everything is right in the world.
And, just for your consideration I included pictures comparing the parts from the different suppliers to the OEM version. I am using the Chinese version as it seemed to be a better constructed piece. Search for them on eBay as "easytradingco".
Left - Chinese, Top right - OEM, Bottom Right - USA
If anyone has questions, don't hesitate to ask! Hope this helps!

I'm gonna be doing this in about 2 minutes and I'm scared as hell. If anybody has any special tips not mentioned above please post below.
ok..i'm diving in!
OK. I did it but I couldn't put it back together (and I also lost a screw! but found it again..lucky me!)
When you slide the housing back in, start from the top of the phone and work to the bottom. The bottom slides back very easily but the top is extremely tricky.
I'm surprised no one else had to replace the usb charging port?
THANK THE LORD!!! IT'S ALIVE! Thanks to Rosh I resuscitated my phone! I'm totally gonna buy another spare part.
And I'm probably gonna buy a white housing to mix and match parts.
Anways, thanks Rosh!
This is the part I bought mine from. Like I said, I'm gonna buy another. I couldn't flash certain ROMs without fixing this first.

Glad I could help, leafsacc!

I changed mine a couple weeks ago, the only thing I noticed different, BOTH boards were stamped GT-7000/I something with a date.
Both boards look identical, but, the one that I took out of the Note, appeared like the one in your upper right photo. "Gray tape" or whatever
it is, and the new one does not. Since replacing it with the one that looks similar to the one in your lower left photo, the signal level on
my note is a little iffy in spots, where it wasn't before. I'm guessing that the one I ordered, from China...may not quite be like the one
that was the OEM version (my note is the international version, Amazon Germany).
tnx

Stock Samsung Galaxy S3/Note 2/S4 Micro USB Cable Modification

Since the plastic housing in the micro USB end of my USB cable was falling apart, I decided to open it up to see what's inside. The following will be half a recount of what I did and half instructional directions.
The cable actually uses a very surprising design. The wires aren't soldered onto the micro USB receptacle, but instead there are vampire teeth (because they puncture two holes into the wire) like contacts on the plug that pierce into the wire through the insulation.
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The wires are threaded into this green plastic retainer through each of the 4 holes. Directly above each hole, there is a letter in the recessed triangle area shown below but they are so small that they are invisible to my Note 2's camera.
The letters read from left to right as follows: R W G B - corresponding to Red, White, Green and Black respectively as shown in the above picture.
And here is a closeup of the vampire teeth contacts:
Note that there are only 4 contacts - there isn't one for pin 5 ID, meaning you can't make it an OTG plug.
What I did was ditch the original cable for a 3 metre long one. I just so happened to have a broken 3m Apple Lightning Cable lying around, so I cut the Lightning connector and stripped the white cable by about 1 cm, leaving the individual coloured cables unstripped.
In order to remove the cable anchor, I had to strip it off the original cable like you would with a regular wire (without cutting through the core and pulling the insulation off), cut it lengthwise (horizontally/inline with the micro USB connector) then remove the twisted wire and foil shielding. Then from the inside of the anchor I also had to remove the remnant cable insulation to accommodate for the new cable.
Then in the correct order, I insert the four wires into the green plastic retainer and snap it back against the vampire teeth contacts. To ensure they make good contact, I used a pair of pliers to clamp the green plastic retainer into the dark grey vampire teeth holder with just enough force to not break the plastic (if that made sense). At this stage, plug the cable into the phone and then to a computer to make sure it is making good contact to avoid having to open it up again.
I then re-assembled the metal case (noting the up/down orientation) and crimped the wire anchor securely onto the new cable.
To re-install the two halves of the cable anchor, I used a generous amount of brush-on super glue on anything that needed it, also noting the up/down orientation of the parts. If unsure, assemble the connector without any glue to ensure the correct orientation.
And this is the finished product! It is as close to original as I could make it without using the "traditional cut-both-cables-and-reconnect-Frankestine-style-using-heatshrink" method. As seen here, the cut made to the cable anchor is visible but it seems like a very stable bond.
The plastic casing is almost as if it hadn't been opened before.
Now I have a custom-made 3m micro USB cable that looks like the stock one, but with much more flexibility!

Wow! Thanks for the very informative post. I've been staring at a pile of near dead cables wondering if it would be easy to revive them.
Are you getting a full charge strength through it (using something like GCC to measure)? All the microusb cables I've bought thus far won't carry but maybe 700, if I'm lucky; generally about 400.
-----
I would love to help you, but help yourself first: ask a better question
http://www.catb.org/~esr/faqs/smart-questions.html

spycedtx said:
Wow! Thanks for the very informative post. I've been staring at a pile of near dead cables wondering if it would be easy to revive them.
Are you getting a full charge strength through it (using something like GCC to measure)? All the microusb cables I've bought thus far won't carry but maybe 700, if I'm lucky; generally about 400.
-----
I would love to help you, but help yourself first: ask a better question
http://www.catb.org/~esr/faqs/smart-questions.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose I am getting a full charge current. It's the same reading as the stock cable, anyway. 1698 mA is about 1.7 A.

Update: Realistically though, I think it only charges at around 300 mA, which leads to my Note 2 to charge to only 80% in 8 hours. How disappointing. I should've known better than to use a cheap generic cable that was obviously too thin.

Good looking job anyway!
Do you suppose this plug could survive another operation?

looks very good

vantt1 said:
Update: Realistically though, I think it only charges at around 300 mA, which leads to my Note 2 to charge to only 80% in 8 hours. How disappointing. I should've known better than to use a cheap generic cable that was obviously too thin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The ONLY cable I trust is from monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5457&seq=1&format=2 (you can also find it on amazon).
They clearly specify 24AWG rating for power wires (max 3.5A), and 28AWG rating for signal. Plus you get ferrite core filter, which I suspect only wrapped around power wires to filter out any high current spikes and to keep EMI away from signal wires, and gold plated connectors. I have been using these wires at home and in my car for years. For $1.20 (for 3ft) and also in black or white and 1.5ft, 3ft, 6ft, 10ft, and 15ft variation you can't beat it.

vectron said:
The ONLY cable I trust is from monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5457&seq=1&format=2 (you can also find it on amazon).
They clearly specify 24AWG rating for power wires (max 3.5A), and 28AWG rating for signal. Plus you get ferrite core filter, which I suspect only wrapped around power wires to filter out any high current spikes and to keep EMI away from signal wires, and gold plated connectors. I have been using these wires at home and in my car for years. For $1.20 (for 3ft) and also in black or white and 1.5ft, 3ft, 6ft, 10ft, and 15ft variation you can't beat it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried the 10 or 15ft version?

vantt1 said:
Have you tried the 10 or 15ft version?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, only have 6ft version; found it to be the most ideal length in the car and also at home/work.
With a wire that thick, 15ft will not be a problem since you will have a very small voltage drop.
The problem with ebay and some other cheap amazon cables, they use pc usb wires intended for 500 mA standard.

I was looking for a high quality USB cord. All of them have been pos (plural form) I just ordered 3...for that price you can't beat it.... Just need a spare charger that gives me a rated 1.8 minimum. I see it's an ongoing problem with the cords and or chargers when it comes to these phones. This really helped. Thanks
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda app-developers app

It might be possible for me to go down to an electronics shop, buy a long 4 core 24-ish AWG cable and make my own high-current USB cable from my existing cable.

Nice work!

I just don't see how in the world you got the white cover off.
My phone slid onto the floor while charging and I guess landed just right. It bent the end of my oem cable (the only freaking cable I had that would charge "quickly")
It is bent at about a 45 degree angle. It also pulled the white casing apart a little.
Since the cable is pretty much useless now, I decided to try to pry that piece open so I could look inside and see if there was anything I could do to "fix"it.
I have been trying for 30 minutes and I cant get it apart. It won't budge except that it is starting to crack.
I guess I'm just not capable of doing these things.
Sent From My Ginormous Note 2

planetbeen said:
I just don't see how in the world you got the white cover off.
My phone slid onto the floor while charging and I guess landed just right. It bent the end of my oem cable (the only freaking cable I had that would charge "quickly")
It is bent at about a 45 degree angle. It also pulled the white casing apart a little.
Since the cable is pretty much useless now, I decided to try to pry that piece open so I could look inside and see if there was anything I could do to "fix"it.
I have been trying for 30 minutes and I cant get it apart. It won't budge except that it is starting to crack.
I guess I'm just not capable of doing these things.
Sent From My Ginormous Note 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine just so happened to conveniently break along the seam on one side, so I just needed to lift it up. Also, I'd consider myself to be pretty good at taking things apart without breaking them, then reassembling it to look like it hasn't been opened before.