How To: R&R USB charge connector port. - Galaxy Note GT-N7000 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

I purchased my International Note in May and love it. It's an amazing replacement for my Dell Streak 5. A few weeks back I was charging it via my PS3 and it couldn't decide if it was unplugged/plugged in. At that point it would intermittently charge, and then things got worse when it would think it was plugged into the car dock or it would load the Samsung audio hub.
I did some research and narrowed it down to the USB hub (duh)... I tried cleaning the USB cable and port connections with no results. I figured out I could shut the phone off, plug in the USB and it would charge the battery but it would still randomly load and close the dock apps, or turn on/off the screen randomly. The phone was almost useless at that point.
If you are dealing with the above symptoms, all my research and experience points squarely to replacing the "Charge Connector Port USB Flex Cable" to fix these problems. From what I've read this problem is not an isolated Note problem, or even isolated to just Samsung and can be narrowed down to the 3rd and 4th pin.
Anyway, I found a few retailers on eBay selling the part I figured I needed for fairly reasonable prices. I bought one from a US based retailer, and one from one based out of China. Similar prices from both, and only one day difference in delivery days. I also purchased a iPhone tool kit on eBay for a whopping $5. You need a small Phillips screwdriver, a pair of tweezers, and a pry tool to pop off the flex cables. Oh, and guitar pick. We'll get to that later.
Tools and the Note
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Ok, now, on to this tutorial type thing.
To get started - shut off your phone, and pop off the battery cover. Remove the pen, battery, sim and SD card and set them aside. At this point you'll see nine screws that secure the rear portion of the phone to the metal frame. I used the screwdriver to loosen them to the point of almost being free and then held onto them with the tweezers, then put them in a lens filter case. I lost one.
After the 9 screws have been removed it's time to use the guitar pick to separate the two pieces of the phone. Holding the phone with the screen towards you, slide the pick in on either the volume rocker side, or power button side. You can then slide the pick down towards the bottom of the phone. It may take a bit of work, but just be patient and take your time. Work the sides and bottom of the bezel and it will pop free much like the battery cover does.
Stairway to Heaven
Now, you will be greeted by the powerful innards of the Note!
At this point of the job you will need that nifty little pry tool and more patience. There are 3 screws located on the housing that the speaker is molded into that cover the USB port. Remove those screws, and you'll see the antenna cable attachment and flex cable. Initially I removed all the flex cables. I looked closer and realized all you need to do is remove the antenna cable mounted to the charge port and pop free the two flex cables at the bottom of the phone and one screw on the power button side of the phone.
Three screws to remove the speaker housing.
Once this screw had been removed you can slide the flex cable attached to the charge port free and remove the old part.
Take the new part, slide the flex cable under, bend it up and connect the two flex cables and antenna. Make sure these are secure, the smaller flex cable powers your capacitive buttons! Now, it is just a matter of working in reverse.
I found this to be a very simple job and better than that my Note is back to being awesome again. All of the problems previously mentioned are gone. The phone charges just as it should and everything is right in the world.
And, just for your consideration I included pictures comparing the parts from the different suppliers to the OEM version. I am using the Chinese version as it seemed to be a better constructed piece. Search for them on eBay as "easytradingco".
Left - Chinese, Top right - OEM, Bottom Right - USA
If anyone has questions, don't hesitate to ask! Hope this helps!

I'm gonna be doing this in about 2 minutes and I'm scared as hell. If anybody has any special tips not mentioned above please post below.
ok..i'm diving in!
OK. I did it but I couldn't put it back together (and I also lost a screw! but found it again..lucky me!)
When you slide the housing back in, start from the top of the phone and work to the bottom. The bottom slides back very easily but the top is extremely tricky.
I'm surprised no one else had to replace the usb charging port?
THANK THE LORD!!! IT'S ALIVE! Thanks to Rosh I resuscitated my phone! I'm totally gonna buy another spare part.
And I'm probably gonna buy a white housing to mix and match parts.
Anways, thanks Rosh!
This is the part I bought mine from. Like I said, I'm gonna buy another. I couldn't flash certain ROMs without fixing this first.

Glad I could help, leafsacc!

I changed mine a couple weeks ago, the only thing I noticed different, BOTH boards were stamped GT-7000/I something with a date.
Both boards look identical, but, the one that I took out of the Note, appeared like the one in your upper right photo. "Gray tape" or whatever
it is, and the new one does not. Since replacing it with the one that looks similar to the one in your lower left photo, the signal level on
my note is a little iffy in spots, where it wasn't before. I'm guessing that the one I ordered, from China...may not quite be like the one
that was the OEM version (my note is the international version, Amazon Germany).
tnx

Related

canadian captivate download mode usb jig no soldering

If you have a samsung galaxy s captivate i896 and have :
phone - ! - computer
or
the phone will not go into download mode and you have tried all button combos
this is what you need to do
go to your local THE SOURCE store and buy
nexxtech resistor value package 1/4 WATT 5% CARBON RESISTORS $5.99
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1) open up the package and find two wires with colour combination
BROWN - GREEN - YELLOW - GOLD (gold is the last one on all of them )
the two wires are 150K each combined equal 300K ohms
2) twist one end of each wire togather and then bend the entire piece into a U shape
View attachment 463946
3) take the U shape and wrap tape around it only leaving a little bit of metal ends exposed
View attachment 463947
View attachment 463948
4) take a micro usb wire ( i used the factory cable included with phone ) and cut the end that you plug into your phone to charge off take a blade and peel away all the plastic until you can see metal and and circut board attached
5) break-off the circut board untill all you can see is the metal plug that goes into your phone and 5 little metal strips on the other end
View attachment 463949
6) remove the battery sd and sim out of your phone
plug in the micro usb plug you just stripped into the phone
put in the battery ( just the battery no sim no sd )
7) now take the taped wires in a U shape and touch one end to the metal strip closest to the headphone jack and take the other end and touch the second metal strip closest to the headphone jack on the micro usb plug hold steady for couple of seconds and you should have download mode
( do not touch metal ends, hold taped sections only)
If you see phone - ! - computer or your phone starts up but not in download mode you did not hold the wires to the plug steady enough take out battery put battery back in and try again
Just a note, not all MicroUSB cables have a nice pin-out like the one you have there. Most of the MicroUSB to USB cables I've seen don't utilize pin 5, so getting access to that pin can sometimes be a PITA.
Glad you got one made up though!
the usb cable i stripped was the factory cable that comes with the captivate edited orginal post to clarify norcal einstein thanks for the pointer
attached is a jpg i made showing clearly which pins need to be connected together on a micro-usb "plug-in" as shown in the above post
i know there is already an image, just it's hard to see and i know finding clear pictures on the internet isn't easy
thanks... ill be hitting radio shack when they open...
Wow, it worked! I thought for sure my Fascinate was bricked. Thanks for the info.
When I was in The Source buying the resistors, I saw a product called 'iGo Power Tips', which allow you to charge virtually all your gadgets from a single charger. It's marketed toward people who will be traveling overseas where the power outlets are different. Anyway, one of the Power Tips supports a micro-USB connection and sells for about $6. Rather than tearing apart my power cord, etc. (which is about $20-$30 around here), I just bought one of these puppies and it did the job. I hope this can save someone a couple of bucks.
Thanks again.
Darryl
compare to the price you paid, it is good to buy it on ebay. it is cheaper and solid build. just search for "micro usb jig".
Edited by the author
I bought 4 micro usb plugs for $2.95 on ebay and spent like $3.50 for the resistors (though enough for 3 jigs) so cost me like $2.15 per jig. Would have cost liek $10-$15 to ship a jig to where i live -_-;
Yeah, I did the same thing, except I didn't look very hard at the resistors in that pack, and got 2 packs so I could have 3x100k. My USB plug is pretty ugly and cheap, and pin 5 is actually on the other side of my plug (I think it's 1 and 5 on the back, and 2,3,4 on the front). But it works, and that's all that matters - got me into download mode after an Odin 1 Click crash at boot.bin totally borked my phone, and my computer couldn't even see it when it was connected (so one click unbrick obviously wouldn't work, it couldn't see the phone).
Thanks mate.. It worked like a charm. I had tried all possible combination button but didn't worked so finally did this method and it worked.. M so happy to get my Galaxy S back..
Considering myself as a semi-experienced flasher, I was skeptical............but it is so easy to hit the contacts that this is a no brainer!!! I actually had free repair set up with Samsung..yes, believe it that they can be so good.......but this did the trick
Forget all the ebay built ones............if you have a RadioShack even 1 hr away, its worth the drive and the $2 or so for this whole fix.
EDIT: I must say that I first saw this one you tube on a video by triggerhappy22, but seeing it here also, made me less skeptical.
And a tip: You can charge the phone even when you are in the soft brick mode. It so happened that my battery was discharged when I was trying various methods to unbrick. I did not realize since the brick screen stays on whenever you connect to the computer via usb. If you take it off the computer and the phone goes black, your battery needs to be charged. So, put it on an external charger for about 1 hour, and you will have enough juice to check if you can get to download mode....
Good luck !!
Second EDIT:: I have ATT CAPTIVATE.so also works in USA !!
Jig works on any Samsung Galaxy S phone, I know it works on Galaxy S II international so I assume it works on any other Galaxy S II. Don't know if it works on Galaxy Note, but probably does considering its basically the same phone bigger screen.
Edit: It works on a TON of samsung products.
Any Galaxy S and Galaxy S II variants
Infuse 4G
Nexus S
Droid Charge
S5830
Impression (SGH-A877)
Galaxy Player
Galaxy Prevail.
The Canadian captivate is the same as the united States captivate!
Sent from my I897 using xda premium
usb looks like this
hi, unfortunately my captivate (build 1011) is hard bricked. I'm trying the solder less methods. first I followed the instruction from forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=889128 but still no result.
now I follow ur instruction. I cut the usb cable and made a 301k wire jig. my usb now looks like this
with the two ends of wire jig do I have to touch just the metal wires of usb? or have to insert them into the tiny holes from the metal wires come out?
it looks like you may have accidentally shorted some of the connections by having the wires or connectors touching each other. this will stop the jig from working, as will dirt or oil on the contacts and wires.
it shouldn't matter whether you touch the wires or the back of the connector where the wire is attached, as long as it is a good connection. inserting into holes is okay, but don't push too hard or you can break the connector contacts.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda app-developers app
Will this work for WAVE 2 phones?
vasilevsk1 said:
Will this work for WAVE 2 phones?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Jig works on the galaxy series, not sure about the others. You'd have to check in the Wave section.

[Q] USB Cables Causing Mico Port to Expand?

I don't know if anyone else is having this problem, but this is the 2nd go around with this issue for me.
Background on the topic. I have several different mico-usb cables between my car, home, and work. The stock Samsung cables and my Car charger stopped charing my phone. I would have to apply pressure forward on the cable to get the phone to recognize it. The cables at work, which I think are Blackberry based seem to have no problems. Last month I went ahead and just replaced the USB port on the phone. I was getting stuck on the weekend with no working chargers. After replaced everything seemed fine.
However, now i am getting back to the same point where I have to apply pressure to the cable to get charge the phone.
Is it possible that some cables can actually bend/expand/manipulate the charging port? Has anyone else had similar issues. I dont understand why Samsung designed the port on an tapered edge like that.
the problem is your cable not the port on the phone.
there have been several threads on it. get a new cable it will fit snug.
might have to trim new cable to fit past the door.
or try squeezing the end on the cable. get it tight again.
Well thats the funny part. I've seen the issues where the cables don't fit correctly because of the large plastic piece preventing it. Mine is the opposite. My Samsung cable fits in too loosely, like can wiggle it around. The Larger Blackberry one is that fits more securely. I was just curios if anyone else has had a similar issue. I appreciate the response.
as i said above sometimes you have to trim the new cable at the part you grab with your fingers because its too fat. you just take a razor to it and trim off the hump.
then it fits past the door.
Also, are you sure the USB door is all the way open? My first cappy had to "click" before it was all the way open. If it wasn't all the way open, any charger I tried would be loose.
you guys aren't getting the point...the problem is that the port itself (the metal contacts) appear to be spreading apart and the USB cable is not connecting firmly. I'm having somewhat of the same problem, except I think my problem is the hooks on the USB cable are getting loose and not holding the port properly.
Sent from a phone, playing a phone, disguised as another phone.
Thats exactly whats going on. I have no issues getting the USB cable all the way into the port. The door is open all the way. It seems as if the port is bent at angle where the contacts aren't touching. The only way i can get the Phone to charge is by wrapping the cable forward around the phone. This forces the cable contacts and the USB port to connect. I replaced the USB port a month ago...so this blows. Attached is a picture explaining the angle i need to get the phone to charge. This is some bullsh*t.
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You know....this may be why I'm stuck with a dead USB port and have to now figure out how to unroot before returning to AT&T.
I have 3 cables, the actual Captivate one, an LG and a Blackberry (both which I modified with a razor) and my USB has gone out. Both the LG and BB cables never fit in quite right, even after the modification.
I had this happen. Took it into warranty and they replaced it with a refurb.
They sell the ports for 4.50 dollars @ http://www.globaldirectparts.com/ShoppingCart.asp I took the phone apart yesterday, and it looks like there are only 4 solder points holding it in. It doesn't seem like a super tough procedure...better then getting charged $72 by the local repair shop (Squaretrade covered that one) What do you guys think?
I know what you're talking about, I'm confident mine ahs the same issue. I guess my question is this, do the non-OEM cables still work to charge it with no finnagling? That's the way mine is, so my "fix" has been to buy 4 cables from monoprice and just use them instead of the OEM one I got with it.
They do for awhile. However mine is now getting to the point where even the blackberry charger needs a little pressure to get the connection solid. Lesson learned though, when i finally get those USB replacement ports in, I will only be using the standard Samsung cables. 1 month is pitiful for a port to last. Granted, I understand it is my fault for not using "oem" cables. However, I think the design is faulty, and in the coming months when these devices are on the brink of a year, more and more people are going to have this issue, but be out of warranty. Just my thoughts.
Never play the fishing game with the USB cable plugged in!
My experience is that with the stock Micro USB cable, I have a perfect fit. Any other cables that I have tried, they all seem to wiggle and are not very stable. They are OK if you want to use them just for charging. However, if you are going to flash a ROM, make sure that you use a cable that's most secure. It would be a huge pain to recover if your lose USB connection in the middle of a ROM flash.

Samsung Galaxy Tab Dock (quick) Teardown notes

This is my first post and already I see that this has been posted to the forums. But the deed is done so I'd like to share my thoughts anyway. -Unfortunately I just found out that I'm not allowed to link to the pics until post #8 so maybe I'll come back and post them later. Anyway...
I'm in the process of integrating a galaxy tab into my car's dash and needed a way to power it, have usb access, and get audio off simultaneously. The stock RCA adapter doesn't have a charging mechanism or USB. But the dock seems to cover all the bases with charging capability, 30 pin connector, and audio line out (I won't be using the HDMI). I ordered one and promptly cracked it open.
This picture (would) show the top case (if I could post the pic), the guts and the rubber mat that I peeled off the bottom. Much to my surprise it was screwed together with actual screws and just popped right open.
At first I thought the big metal thing was a shield but I think its mainly there as a weight. The weight helps to make the device feel more solid but really its the same plastic you find anywhere.
As for my project, I need to extend the section that connects to the tab. That section is attached with a standard 12 pin ribbon cable that I can easily solder on wires or make an FPC-FPC cable extender if I'm feeling fancy
TunaCanyon said:
-Unfortunately I just found out that I'm not allowed to link to the pics until post #8 so maybe I'll come back and post them later. Anyway....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm very interested in seeing this. I think I can post photos if you would like to PM or e-mail a link or the photos to me.
.
I think I'm good now. Here are the pics
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If anyone needs this, disassembly is very easy. Just peel off the rubber bottom and expose the 4 small phillips screws. Use a knife or very thin flat blade to separate the bottom plate from the cover. There are 2 tabs on each side holding it together. If you force the top outwards on the long side you can disconnect them and start to wiggle it out. Be careful not to damage the connectors since they portrude through the top housing. After that its just some tape on the shield/weight, 3 more screws and you're done!
TunaCanyon said:
This is my first post and already I see that this has been posted to the forums. But the deed is done so I'd like to share my thoughts anyway. -Unfortunately I just found out that I'm not allowed to link to the pics until post #8 so maybe I'll come back and post them later. Anyway...
I'm in the process of integrating a galaxy tab into my car's dash and needed a way to power it, have usb access, and get audio off simultaneously. The stock RCA adapter doesn't have a charging mechanism or USB. But the dock seems to cover all the bases with charging capability, 30 pin connector, and audio line out (I won't be using the HDMI). I ordered one and promptly cracked it open.
This picture (would) show the top case (if I could post the pic), the guts and the rubber mat that I peeled off the bottom. Much to my surprise it was screwed together with actual screws and just popped right open.
At first I thought the big metal thing was a shield but I think its mainly there as a weight. The weight helps to make the device feel more solid but really its the same plastic you find anywhere.
As for my project, I need to extend the section that connects to the tab. That section is attached with a standard 12 pin ribbon cable that I can easily solder on wires or make an FPC-FPC cable extender if I'm feeling fancy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm curious to see how this comes out. Please post pics when you can. I personally don't want to dock it because it means I have to take it out of my case each time and have though about just taking the dock apart so that all I would have to do is plug in the connector and be able to leave it in the case at the same time.
i have a galaxy tab in my car.
The solution for it was the standard samsung car dock, which has input for the included car charger.
The audio is provided via bluetooth to the car through Blackberry Stereo Audio Gateway, meaning that to my AUX in jack in my car i have hooked up this device which is also powerd up via USB and the music from samsung plays through bluetooth to my AUX in.
This was by far the cleanest setup i could do. there are no hanging wires or visible wires involved.
My plan is to take it up a notch. I want to tap in to my car's instrument bus and be able to reset the trip counter/mileage/etc and control the tab with the steering wheel buttons. It'll be a couple months before that happens...
Anyway, I ordered a bunch of stuff from digikey to extend the ribbon cable without having to cut anything.
very interested in this. any progress ?
Another thread resurrection
I note that the PCB has some solder pads on it saying Gnd, Tx and Rx, I don't suppose you (or anyone else) has had a look to see what these are connected to?
I'm just wondering if these are connected to the serial lines as it would be a lot easier to solder to these than the innards of a chopped up cable.
Anyone tried this?
Amazing project!! Great info
Sent from my EVO 4G Supersonic

inductive charging mod for defy

I finally made one.
wanted to do this for a long time.
One of the harder mods i made.
-extremly small solder points.
-should still be water resistant afterwards
-wont charge without data pins connected - but usb should still be usable.
here it is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOSdcRLA-mo
I spend more then 10 hours in total to do this. Was it worth it?
=D hell yeah!
strong electromagnetic field does not damage data on a memory card?
its not long term
yes you can charge like this but with this kind of chargers your phone's life + memory life will reduce because of strong magnetic / electromagnetic field so try use it in emergency only
rucheat said:
yes you can charge like this but with this kind of chargers your phone's life + memory life will reduce because of strong magnetic / electromagnetic field so try use it in emergency only
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i call bull****! sorry to sound like a prick, but i strongly dislike people talking out of there ass about things they don`t know **** about.
This wont damage anything. Infact, this "strong magnetic / electromagnetic field" won`t even reach the phone.
Maybe you read some more about that topic:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductive_charging
http://www.engadget.com/tag/inductive charging/
Hi puked,
I would be very interested in knowing more about this mod you created. Good work by the way.
I was planning on doing something similar, I wanted to modify the car dock to charge the phone automatically when docked. I was thinking of adding 2 contact points on the back cover which would mate up with springs or some such on the car dock. I hate having to plug cables into the phone when putting the phone into the dock, bluetooth takes care of the audio nicely, just needed to get the charging sorted!
I'm particulary interested in hearing your experience of where you tapped into in the Defy. Did you solder directly to the back of the the USB connector? And you mentioned needing to connect the data pins to invoke charging, can you explain a little more?
hi jurgen,
i should have made some photos during the process of making the mod. Sorry for that -.-
Yeah, I soldered directly to the back of the USB port. Only one wire needed for Vcc.
A pinout can be found here:
http://www.talkandroid.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/pinout-microUSB1.png
this is the micro USB port, when you look into it from the front.
A guide, how to disassemble the phone can be found via youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uSH1UuEOvI
you only need to remove the backcover and the plastic shielding over the USB Port - this is easy.
To be able to reach the pin for soldering, you need to remove the antenna, too.
I drilled a hole into the plastic shielding to lead the cable through. You have to do this; there is no room to lead the cable otherwise.
Put the plastic shield back on, and fixate the cable on it.
to lead this point to the top of the battery, I used adhesive copper-foil.
GND can be taken from different points - I used the slot of the sim-card. lead this point to the top, too.
The receiver i used is from the cover of a palm pre.
The problem I had after I finished the mod: Phone won`t charge. Why? Well - dumb Moto decided the phone will only charge if USB is connected. You have to shorten the Data-Pins.
How did I do this? I got myself some micro USB plugs. remove the pins and dremel/saw it so small, that it fits into the slot completely. Remove the metal shielding and insert one of the pins from underneath (there are small holes, that normaly hold the pins in place). you eventually have to melt the plastic between the holes, so that the metal bridge fits. It should be flat and not stick out. You now have to shorten the pins sticking out on top, so that they are exactly as long as the pins would be.
Sound complicated and is complicated and damn frustrating, cause the whole thing is so tiny. we are talking about maybe 2mm at most.
Afterwards you have to isolate the whole thing. Instead of re-attaching. the metal shield, use some duct tape or similar.
This thing is sturdy if done correctly and easily removable, if you should need the USB Port.
I`m sure there are other possibilities do do make such a plug. This method worked for me.
I`ll make some photos later and post some links to a similar project for the Samsung Galaxy+. I hope it`ll be quite clear afterwards.
If someone wants to do this mod, I suggest you to start with the micro USB plug. Would be very frustrating, if you mod the phone first, and fail making a plug. Without it the whole mod is useless.
Maybe someone knows if it is possible to change something in software (CM7), so that the damn phone will charge without the pins connected. I still hope, this is possible, but didn`t get any feedback to this question as of yet.
Thank you for the very detailed response and the links.
I'll look into the links later, the shorting plug sounds like a pain to get right! Hopefully, as you say, there is a software setting/workaround that can bypass this.
Very interesting project!!! Impressive! One question that comes up: How long does it take to fully charge the battery?
Hi puked,
that's awesome work, congratulations for getting it working!
I did the same thing to my defy a couple of months ago, but I had less success unfortunately. I soldered it in and, like you, I noticed it did not charge when power was applied to the port. I eventually figured out that the pins need to be shorted, so did so, and have managed to nearly get it working.
The problem is, it only works if i take the coil out of the back and push it onto the touchstone base so there is little to no air gap. If it's even slightly off centre, the charging constantly restarts and it doesn't work. I haven't managed to get it to work with the coil in the case. I haven't installed the magnets/steel discs, as I wanted to get it working reliably first.
I wanted to ask, did you find it had to be perfectly centred for it to work? Did gluing the magnets in help here? Did you do anything special with the metal sheild behind the coil?
Craig
puked said:
i should have made some photos during the process of making the mod. Sorry for that -.-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Puked,
Can you please take the battery cover of your phone and make a picture of the inside? This might help me to see if I will try to make this mod myself....
Thank you.
Hi Puked
First of all Thanks and Congratulations for making it work. Awaiting photos before I touch the screw drivers
Hi and sorry for not responding for such a long time. I´m very busy at the moment, sorry :/
I promise i will make some more photos this evening and update this post with them.
To answer Craigms questions:
I cut the "metal shield, so that it fits - it`s a bit to wide to fit in without shortening. I diden`t use the little round metal plates from the palm cover (these are no magnets), instead i used sheeting from a tin.
To find the best spot on the touchstone, i used wires to link cover and phone, so that i could move the cover around. when i found the optimal place on the touchstone, i attached the sheeting and fixated it.
I also had to dremel down the plastic inside the battery cover so that it fits and closes without pressure.
Notice: The first touchstones seem to be faulty - they have problems even with the original HP phones.
I have problems aligning the phone as well, sometimes. But that only happens, if battery drops below ~30% - that rarely happens since I modded my phone.
Edit:
pictures:
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Nice work. I've actually just finished a Touchstone Car-Cradle for my Defy.
My problem is the shorting of the data pins... damn those tiny plug .
Puked, you wrote that one doesn't need the metal shielding of the plug but in the picture you've posted there is a metal shield around the plug... Without the shield it seemed to me, that the plug is too lose and the data pins have no connection. On the other hand, with shield it's really hard to remove the plug from the defy... in fact there's currently one stuck in the USB port :|.
Having destroyed three plugs with my oversized soldering iron, I now need to wait for new ones before I can continue :/.
Could you please post a picture of the micro-USB plug alone? So I can maybe follow your lead
Yeah - the plug is a pain in the ass. If I would have known, that the phone wont charge without them connected, I could have solved this problem in a different way.
best thing to do would be to solder 2 more cables to the data pins and shortem them via battery cover - similar how I did it with Vcc and ground - just with data.
You are indeed right - there is a metal shielding. I made a new plug. Will make photos later.
btw. I still believe (hope) that one could make the phone charge without the pins shortened via software.

Replacing the headphone jack port

So, On the bus ride home today, I was in a rush getting off the bus and my headphone cable got caught and pulled quite hard on the phone.
The jack popped out, so when I was on solid ground I put the jack back in and pressed play on my podcast but nothing happened.
I pushed the headphone jack to the side slightly and sound came through.
So the sound only works if I push the jack towards the right, with the phone facing you.
So I opened it up to see if I could see anything loose, but it looked fine.
I chatted to a rep from amazon.de and they said I could send it to them and they will fix it, but if it is broken due to negligence, I'll have to pay for repairs.
Not sure if breaking the headphone port counts as negligence.
And also don't feel like restoring the phone to stock and rerooting etc....
So instead I just ordered the replacement part from ebay.
Will try installing it when it gets here and see if that works.
I didn't fancy not having my phone for weeks because of a non-essential part being slightly broken.
Will post my progress and the results when the part arrives.
Cheers
Jayd
SnakeManJayd said:
Not sure if breaking the headphone port counts as negligence.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can tell you right now - that will certainly count as negligence
It isnt as though it was a manufacturing defect
anyway, ill be interested to see how this goes - lots of pics please
That was what I thought too.
I will definitely post pics, although my note is the best camera device I have, so it will have to be with my wifes galaxy W.
But it's better than nothing.
At least someone has already done a teardown for you to follow - one of the screen replacement threads
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
apd said:
At least someone has already done a teardown for you to follow - one of the screen replacement threads
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, and I found a video of a teardown on youtube, not sure if it is the same person.
I did a half teardown today, so I am confident that I can at least take it apart.
SnakeManJayd said:
Yes, and I found a video of a teardown on youtube, not sure if it is the same person.
I did a half teardown today, so I am confident that I can at least take it apart.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good luck. Please, as many photos as possible to help others in future.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
So.
There was a side-effect of breaking the headphone port.
I noticed that the battery was really flat last night for some reason, I didn't think too much of it and I put it on charge.
This moring I took it off of charge, after a night of charging and it had only gotten to 42%. Which is when I realised that there was a problem.
I tried charging from my pc and the AC outlet, and it would charge very slowly and not above 42%. And when off charge, the battery would drain quite fast.
So I wondered if it was a result of me taking the phone apart and putting it back together wrong, so I took the back cover off again.
I tried to charge again, but same problem.
So then it dawned on me that the broken headphone port might be short circuiting something to drain the battery, so I popped the connector for the headphone jack off of the motherboard and tried to charge it that way.
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When I did this the phone charged with no problems. So it seems that the part was shorting out somehow.
This meant that I had to remove it now, instead of waiting for the replacement.
I removed the main board (for directions on how to do that check out one of the youtube videos on galaxy note teardown.)
To get to the headphone port part.
I had to remove the two silver screws to remove the little metal bracket holding it down, then pulled out the headphone part.
It is just stuck down with some rubbish sticky glue type stuff.
Then installed the metal cover and the mainboard without the headphone port part.
I then wanted to cover up the hole that was now in the top of the phone that would allow direct access to the main board. Luckily I use a case, so I used a bit of plastic, to sit between the phone and the case.
And here is the phone, with decent battery charge, next to defective part.
So, now the phone at least isn't going to damage its self while I wait for a replacement part.
BUT!!!! Before you try this, keep in mind that the other thing attached to the headphone port is the speaker for phonecalls.
I tested it with a phonecall from another phone.
The phone rings, but I can't hear anything when I pick up.
The person on the other end hears my voice, but also an echo of there own voice.
So, it is a drastic move, but at least now my phone is useable until the replacement part arrives.
It's a good thing I don't phone people, I mainly text anyway, so I should be fine for now.
Will update when the new part arrives.
Hi,
I've problems with my jack port too so, like you, I would like to replace it. Do you know where we can order a jack port for ours Galaxy Note ?
I ordered mine from ebay.
But I have seen other websites that have the same thing.
The ebay one was the cheapest for me, although it is shipping from the US to UK, so it will take a while to get here.
I will make a video or take lots of pictures so you can see how to install it.
Cheers
Jayd
Got a call from my friend today. Had to hang up and text him saying that I couldn't take is call, because I had removed the speaker from my phone. Was pretty funny.
Well, thank you !
Unfortunatly, I can't open your link because I'm in France and there are restrictions on ebay. Do you have a reference/name to give me plz ?
Anyway, to avoid the problem, I've ordered bluetooth headphones today. Hope you can replace your jack port soon !
Search Google for:
"Headphone Jack Earphone Flex Cable for Samsung Galaxy Note GT-N7000 i9220"
That was what the ebay item was called.
So you can't access ebay in France?
Thanks, I can access ebay but not the link you send me. The product is maybe unavailable for France...
Jobs Done
I got the replacement part today, after a week without the headphone jack or speaker for the phone.
So I opened up the phone again, as I did before. You can see the open space where the part needs to go.
So I took of the white plastic which uncovered the sticky area on the speaker used to stick down the part. The blue underneath of the headphone jack was also a bit sticky. I stuck it in place and it went in really easily.
Next I had to put the little metal bracket back in.
Then I put the screws into the bracket to hold it in place then put the main board back in place and screwed that down too.
I then clipped the connectors back in place and put the cover back on.
Booted it up and it is working perfectly
I tested the headphone jack afterwards and it is firm and the sound isn't crackly. I also tested the speaker for phonecalls and it is working again and sounds normal.
So it looks like, all in all, it was a successful fix.
Will update if any weird side-effects show up.
Cheers
Thank you! I've got the same issue where it only outputs stereo when I push whatever is plugged in to the headphone part toward the back of the phone. Cnn.cn has the part for $5 + $5 shipping, so I'll grab that and use your pics for reference!
My pleasure.
Feel free to contact me if you need help figuring anything out.
Cheers
Just to clarify, do you have to take apart the main board to replace the headphone jack?
---------- Post added at 10:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 AM ----------
phenixdragon said:
Just to clarify, do you have to take apart the main board to replace the headphone jack?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I found my own answer and looks like you do.
No you don't need to take it apart, but you do have to remove it to get to the bracket underneath.
By that I mean, unscrew the main board and pop the few clips that are connecting the IO ribbons to it, then just pull it off.
congratulations on your succesful fix.. i can't even dare to do this as you have did that.. you are so brave
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
Sounds like you bent a contact to one side with the preasure of the Jack. I did this on a pod and used a torch & Bobby pin to pull the contact into the side of the hole again. It was not sticking far enough into it to make contract
From box 13......

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