Just a note:
If you have lost front camera and touch screen. The flex cable that sits inside the front panel is to be replaced. The flex cable is the one that has the sim card slot and the front camera module. I found that in the old flex cable was damaged at the portion where it is sliding in and out the metal housing. The thin circuits at the most outer edges of the flex strip appeared to be worn out on the left and right. I am guessing it is the circuit for the touch screen as well as the front camera.
Now both touch screen and front camera is working again
Tip. When removing the flex cable for servicing, be extremely careful moving the cable out of the front and middle housing.
I guess this could be why my microSD card slot is not working either? since my front camera does not work anymore and the card slot suddenly stopped working!
very likely..
Related
i recently disassembled my tilt to find out if i could tighten the hinges because the hinge were loose but ended having problems with the keyboard. i hooked up the wire that connects from the keyboard to the motherboard. now the problem is that i could only use half of the character.
do you guys encounter this kind of problem? and did you guys fix it?
thanks
draztik_beast said:
i recently disassembled my tilt to find out if i could tighten the hinges because the hinge were loose but ended having problems with the keyboard. i hooked up the wire that connects from the keyboard to the motherboard. now the problem is that i could only use half of the character.
do you guys encounter this kind of problem? and did you guys fix it?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PM Mike, he will lead you in the right direction.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/member.php?u=335322
Buy a new keyboard with flex cable on ebay.
I replaced my tilt keybard (with silver keys) with the original all black keys.
The keys, the flex cable, the board ~ everything is one solid peace that's soldered and glued together, it's not removable (without damaging). The flex cable is actually sensitive and can break. If you try to mess with the keyboard, putting a lot of pressure on the silver part under they keyboard, or make a dent on the silver part under the keyboard (in the effort of trying to separate the keys and the board, which is impossible) ~ you might end up pressuring the flex board/wires and cause only half of the keys work and half doesn't, and the cap-lock and func light won't turn on.
Remember to get the keyboard with the whole frame and flex wires and not just the plastic keys by itself.
The whole black rim, flex cable/board and the silver bottom piece is all soldered together as one solid piece. The plastic keys are like sticker, lay on top of the board and flex.
(your board and flex seem broken anyway, but...)
If you only buy the keys without the whole board together, you will have to rip out the old plastic keys layer (because it's just a layer of sticker on top of everything) ~ do it carefully, or you might rip out the flex cables/board by accident.
Let me know if you want some pixs that I took when I replaced my keys.
draztik_beast said:
i recently disassembled my tilt to find out if i could tighten the hinges because the hinge were loose but ended having problems with the keyboard. i hooked up the wire that connects from the keyboard to the motherboard. now the problem is that i could only use half of the character.
do you guys encounter this kind of problem? and did you guys fix it?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wad there possibly a alternative from getting a whole new board as i only replaced the screen mine.............
I had a similar problem when replacing the screen on my wife's Tilt recently. I took it apart a second time and put it together again very carefully, particularly with the small ribbon that connects to the motherboard, as I believe that is the ribbon that connects the keyboard to the motherboard.
Take a look at this video to see the part I am referring to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96iXd5jG2-U#t=2m45s
The washer fix resolved the screen lift issue for many, however I've noticed that something doesn't quite add up. Using the washer fix mysteriously resolves(or partially) the issue of a springy/spongy left screen and the creaks and popping noise. The theory was that the screws was too long and tightened too far with the ends of the screws pushing the glass screen out and pulling the plastic silver bezel back.
There isn't a reason to why the springy screen or strange noises was fixed and neither a reason to what the cause was. Besides resolving those issues some people found it hard to push the back cover back on and still have bulging back covers and also bulging silver bezel. You might get away with this issue by putting washers on the two centre screws and taking out the washer on the top part of the screen. I believe this worked because the height of the screws gets elevated with the washers and pushes against the back cover and denting and marking it in some cases. If you managed pop the cover back on the increased pressure from the screws makes the plastic tabs pull on the silver bezel and warping it (maybe).
I thought maybe the culpit of the screen lift might not simply be long screws. But I didn't understand how the washers fixed it. After looking at iFixit teardown pictures I saw something else that could push down on the LCD unit and onto the screen. On the second picture of step 12 I can see large cut outs in the metal frame and on the back side of the motherboard I can see taped components. I thought it might be possible that the taping left creases and air bubbles on the pcb and the bulging of the taped components looks like it can press on to the LCD unit directly underneath. The cause of the popping noise and sponginess came clear to me now. The popping noise comes from the tape being pressed against it (it could be glue from the screen/bezel too) and the sponginess is probably the PCB bending .
I think what the washers did was lifting both the metal frame and the pcb up and the taped components underneath didn't press against the LCD unit anymore. This created screw elevation for some people and back covers can't fit back easily as I mentioned.
I didn't want any screen lift, bulging back cover/bezel. I thought maybe I can lift the pcb up without putting washers in and I thought of just wedging the pcb against the metal frame right next to the screws. I don't recommend anyone to just try jamming stuff underneath the pcb without checking out the pictures and have a plan first. There are components underneath and please don't push anything too far in. I've tried putting plastic blister underneath the pcb in between 4 screws and next to the 4 pin connector. They are just longer rectangles by the way and I trimmed the ends in the same way as the washer method. However the screen still bulges a little around the centre where I can't put wedges because of the ribbon cable. The bulging back cover problem is completely gone however. I think I will try to put one washer for the screw above the ribbon cable, because I can see that the pcb has a screw hole right under the ribbon cable near that screw. This should lift the pcb a little around the centre. However I'm going to put a thinner washer as I don't want the screw to get elevated too much.
Anyone thinks this theory is rubbish, or have something to add?
EDIT: I report success! Instead of typing out the same thing I will show you with pictures. No idea if this fix will last, no guarantees. I still have a little sideways bulge but my N7 is so close to being perfect now. I don't think I will change anything else for now.
it's from that black foamy piece in your photo....this was mentioned in one of the other threads....
Hi All,
I was taking apart my LTE S3 to fix some water damage and in the process managed to rip the connector off the PCB that connects to the thin wire that runs up the side of the phone. I have searched around and it looks like this is the wifi antenna ? (But not too sure).
As the small connector has been ripped off, it doesn't look like there is any terminal left on the board to resolder it back to. However, I've noticed there looks like there are two larger connectors on the board. What are the chances that I could use either of these ? If so how would i do it, is the antenna just a single connection (the inner or outer part of the connector) ?
Any help will be much apprciated.
Thanks.
Search for the SGS3 Teardown .
jje
Hello, guys!
Recently I bought an HTC One with cracked digitizer, but functional. It had a lot of scratches etc, but this is not important right now. I wanted to do a complete make-over so I bought replacement parts from the internet, I bought the front housing with the LCD screen and the back cover. I dissasembled the phone from the old housing (the one with the broken digitizer), and I assembled it back on the new housing. After all of that, I powered on the phone and it worked like a charm (the LCD and the touch-screen worked perfectly), but then I saw that the glass was a little out, I mean it was upper than the speakers cover, so I decided to take out the whole screen and to change the adhesive, because it was too loose and the screen wasn't staying properly. I succesfully did that, i put the screen back and everything was good, but when I wanted to start the phone, the screen remains black. And this is the problem I have. I mention that I worked very carefully with the screen, so I don't think the problem is at the screen. I disconnected and reconnected all the cables and still doesn't work. When I press the power button it vibrates and then it's making that sound like the phone is booting, but no image on the LCD. If I keep the power button pressed, the back and home buttons are blinking and then the same story as before, vibrates and then the sound. I really don't know what could be the problem.
I really need some help with this and I'm open to all of your suggestions. If you want more informations feel free to ask.
Thanks in anticipation!
To me it looks like you damaged one the flat flex cable.
When you took the screen out did it come like suddenly and maybe some tension was applied to the flat flex?
If I were you I would take it apart and verify the connection in the socket, maybe the socket was damaged or something and it doesn't make a good connection
I hope it works out for you
Thank you for your answer!
When I took out the screen, I took it out very carefully and there wasn't any tension applied to the flex cable, so I don't think this is the problem. I think it's more likely a problem with the socket on the motherboard, like you said, and it's not making a good contact. But what can I do about that?
i had a rear camera that showed marks/blemishes from the lens, was not the exterior camera glass as i had replaced that but still showed marks, cleaning the lens didnt resolve it.
replacing rear camera does not mean u have to remove/unglue lcd from mobo.
vid shows how to do it by just removing back case/midframe, fyi read comments for connecting the spen lcd cable, the one near power button, putting a piece of paper underneath connector aids in it connecting back to mobo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpUjggQ1zRQ