i recently disassembled my tilt to find out if i could tighten the hinges because the hinge were loose but ended having problems with the keyboard. i hooked up the wire that connects from the keyboard to the motherboard. now the problem is that i could only use half of the character.
do you guys encounter this kind of problem? and did you guys fix it?
thanks
draztik_beast said:
i recently disassembled my tilt to find out if i could tighten the hinges because the hinge were loose but ended having problems with the keyboard. i hooked up the wire that connects from the keyboard to the motherboard. now the problem is that i could only use half of the character.
do you guys encounter this kind of problem? and did you guys fix it?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PM Mike, he will lead you in the right direction.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/member.php?u=335322
Buy a new keyboard with flex cable on ebay.
I replaced my tilt keybard (with silver keys) with the original all black keys.
The keys, the flex cable, the board ~ everything is one solid peace that's soldered and glued together, it's not removable (without damaging). The flex cable is actually sensitive and can break. If you try to mess with the keyboard, putting a lot of pressure on the silver part under they keyboard, or make a dent on the silver part under the keyboard (in the effort of trying to separate the keys and the board, which is impossible) ~ you might end up pressuring the flex board/wires and cause only half of the keys work and half doesn't, and the cap-lock and func light won't turn on.
Remember to get the keyboard with the whole frame and flex wires and not just the plastic keys by itself.
The whole black rim, flex cable/board and the silver bottom piece is all soldered together as one solid piece. The plastic keys are like sticker, lay on top of the board and flex.
(your board and flex seem broken anyway, but...)
If you only buy the keys without the whole board together, you will have to rip out the old plastic keys layer (because it's just a layer of sticker on top of everything) ~ do it carefully, or you might rip out the flex cables/board by accident.
Let me know if you want some pixs that I took when I replaced my keys.
draztik_beast said:
i recently disassembled my tilt to find out if i could tighten the hinges because the hinge were loose but ended having problems with the keyboard. i hooked up the wire that connects from the keyboard to the motherboard. now the problem is that i could only use half of the character.
do you guys encounter this kind of problem? and did you guys fix it?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wad there possibly a alternative from getting a whole new board as i only replaced the screen mine.............
I had a similar problem when replacing the screen on my wife's Tilt recently. I took it apart a second time and put it together again very carefully, particularly with the small ribbon that connects to the motherboard, as I believe that is the ribbon that connects the keyboard to the motherboard.
Take a look at this video to see the part I am referring to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96iXd5jG2-U#t=2m45s
Related
My dumb butt child was sucking on my phone a couple weeks ago and caused the LCD to short out or something. The phone still worked and if I used a bright light I could shine it onto the screen and barely make out what was on the screen. It was booting properly and I assume that if I could make out the menu options the phone would still function. I assumed that she shorted out the LCD so I ordered, received and replaced the LCD tonight. Apparently this was not the problem, sucks to be me. I do think there was a problem with the touch screen portion already which is now working properly again but still I can still not see the screen for crap. It's like the brightness setting is on 1 or something. If I use a flashlight I can make out the screen, use the stylus and operate the phone. When I was replacing the LCD I noticed that the two circuit boards to the north and south of the LCD seemed to have a bit of corrosion on some of the tiny chips. I used an alcohol swab to clean the area off but that didn't make a difference. I am utterly convinced that the motherboard is fine since it seems to be well protected in the case and not easily accessible to moisture. I see no signs of corrosion on the motherboard like I do the two circuit boards around the LCD area. I noticed that there are only two contacts on the LCD one of which is a cable that plugs into the south circuit board just underneath the front panel key pad. Just to the right of that cable connection is where I saw signs of corrosion so I wonder if that board is the problem.
The computer tech in me says that I could be swapping parts all night before I get this right. Since the LCD plugs into that board, that could be the problem, there is a ribbon cable that wraps around the back of the LCD which also seems to make contact with the LCD which could also be the problem, that ribbon cable plugs into the north circuit board, so that might be a problem and finally, the ribbon cable plugs into the main board so that too might end up being a problem.
Can anyone take a guess as to why I might be seeing such low contrast/brightness from the LCD? I have already adjusted the brightness setting in the menus. I think it was called the backlight setting, but I moved them to the far right with no change. Again, this is a near pitch black screen that is only visible when I shine a light onto the screen.
i haven't taken my tilt apart but as a computer tech repairing broken laptops etc i know your problem.
as for laptops, there is a little inverter card that powers the backlight. its connected to the display unit by 2 cables (same as with my digital camera, rip ) and this boards are really weak / vulnerable to moisture...
so most likely this board is damaged...
That sort of explains what I think is going on too. Take a look at this cable (apparently it's clickable and will grow slightly in size to give more detail):
Let me explain the cable. This fits directly behind the LCD. The LCD comes with one flat ribbon cable and it plugs into a port on the right side of this picture. On that right circuit board if you notice the top left portion of the board there is thin black slot which is where the LCD plugs into if I recall correctly. There is another cable that plugs in just to the right of that jack from where I forget actually, lol. Once that cable is flipped over the bottom keypad on the phone sits right on top of that board. In fact on the other side you can even see the contacts for the outside buttons. The buttons in question would be like the green phone and red phone, the "e" shortcut and pretty much all the silver external shortcut buttons. Getting back to the cable, you will notice that in the middle of the cable there is a rather wide connection and that is the one that plugs onto the motherboard.
When I was replacing the LCD I spotted two sources of corrosion on both boards. The more plausible culprit was about 1/8 of an inch away from where the LCD plugs into the right circuit board.
I sent HTC an email seeing if they would help to which they told me to send it in. I have no intentions of doing that. I already know how to disassemble and reassemble the phone at this point and I already have 35 dollars invested into a new LCD. I am not about to spend 250 bucks to have HTC take 3 weeks to replace that cable. After some searching last night though, I have no idea where to get the cable. It seems that all the normal parts places on the web want 90 bucks for this cable, but at the same time they want 120 for the LCD. Obviously prices have dropped some because I was able to get the LCD new from ebay for 35. I just need help finding a place that will sell me that cable at a reasonable price.
Now that you have looked at the cable and that board, do you think it's possible that the right board could be the back light inverter that you were mentioning? If that's truly the correct board then it would make since that there is something wrong with it since I saw signs of possible damage and the LCD does work, just not strong enough to be seen with the naked eye. Since these things tend to work much like laptops do, I am leaning towards the possibility that you totally know what your talking about and that it would make since that this is the faulty part.
One other thought, the backlight is the piece that increases the brightness of the LCD right and not just some sort of overhead flashlight or something, correct? The term backlight almost implies a different part but I am pretty sure it's the term used to describe the brightness of the LCD in this case. I just wanted to make sure we were on the same page here.
Any additional thoughts?
Thanks
okay, to be clear about this. i am not 100% sure, if the backlight on the kaiser works the same way as the one on my IBM Thinkpad T41.
tl;dr; i don't know if the kaiser actually has an inverter board.
as for the cable: if you found a bit corrosion on both boards, i'm pretty sure that the reason why your backlight doesn't work.
about the last part: yeah, with "backlight" i mean the unit sits behind digitizer and LCD and increases the brightness of the lcd so you are able to read everything on the screen. i don't mean an overhead flashlight
btw, i just found this one
http://www.cellulardr.com/50H10051-41M-XC.htm
selling the cable / boards or about 90$
<edit>
disregard that... i noticed that the boards allways come with that cable assembly.... and cost about 90$ everywhere... will keep an eye on that.
</edit>
I'm going through the same thing. Did you ever replace that piece? Please let me know because it sucks to not use this phone.
Hello everyone,
Yesterday i disassembled my diamond to solve a problem with the keypad, that was protruding out of his place. I figured out that it was a structural flaw and with the help of my instruments i solved the problem.After that i assembled back all pieces, but when i tried to power on the device it works coz i can hear sounds and other stuff, but lcd screen is not powering up.
So i noticed that the ribbon flex cable was a bit damaged from the aluminium cover placed under the battery. I suppose that the problem is dued to that, but i'm not sure of it. So i need a confirmation that the LCD power is connected to that ribbon cable, so i can purchase the replacement. Thank you. The cable is the one in the attachement.
bump.
anyone??
up, noone knows the function of that piece?
yes, u need to change tat cable
yes, i supposed that. If someone knows the role of that piece i'll be grateful ;P
Ok, my fault. While repairing I ripped the black flat cable that goes from the main board to the top board (there the cam and vibrator is located).
I can't simply change the cable since it's heat glued to the top board (on the mainboard it has a locked connector).
Any suggestion from the repair specialists here? I guess I have to replace the whole top module, that includes the cable.
Any idea where I can get one? Or is it possible the replace just that cable? Seems very difficult though (and I work in electronics)
Note: see the pix, there is a hairline crack on one side near the connector (center in the pix). It's completely open there.
Update:
There is now way one can replace just the flex cable coz it's heat sealed onto the top PCB. Only thing one can do is to replace the complete top PCB.
After some searching I found this interesting Taobao link:
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=4686372956&is_b=1
That's the PCB I want! RMB98 is US$ 15.00 or so. However, I don't want to waste any money on stuff that doesn't work.
So I went to the "phone mall" in Shenzhen (Hua Quan Lu, near Saige). There were at least 10 shops with that module for my phone. I got one for RMB 90 and assembled my phone right away there.
After some fine tuning it worked. However, my phone has still the LCD digitizer problem and often (but not always) recognizes any touch only as a touch to the right side.
Another problem is that the G-sensor works only right-left axis and not up-down.
Since the digitizer change is quite difficult (even though the digitizer itself costs only $3 in China) I may just leave it like that. I bought already an HD2 anyway.
Hi there. A friend of mine gave me a G1 with a cracked digitizer. I ordered a new digitizer from ebay, and after it arrived today, I installed it. I then powered on the phone and found that the lower ~8mm (in vertical orientation) of the digitizer is unresponsive.
After futzing with it in the maps app, I noticed that if you start your gesture where the digitizer works and drag across the trouble area, the map shutters and shakes back and forth as though it were getting input from all directions.
Has anyone encountered this? Any possible solutions? I'm stuck
Ugh, I thought the digitizer wasn't seated properly, so I dis and re assembled and the issue persists. Is this a defective digitizer?
It's really distressing not being able to use that lower portion. Any help would be appreciated greatly.
Hehehe. User Error
For anyone facing this in the future, the ribbon connector at the top of my digitizer was bent slightly, as it could not sit flat because of two of the little rubber bits near the top. Remove rubber bits (like the manual tells you too ) and refit the digitizer, then refit the rubber bits and continue reassembly. Fixed
I feel so stupid.
Hi
I tried to replace my battery and after assemble it back i only get a black display when turning my m7 on.
I broke this little plastic thing from the display cable off (look in attachment)
Is this thing essential for a working display? (i thought i can fix it with a drop of glue)
Should the display work when the backcover is off the device? Because there are some connectors on the backcover....
cheers
00Nuclear00 said:
Hi
I tried to replace my battery and after assemble it back i only get a black display when turning my m7 on.
I broke this little plastic thing from the display cable off (look in attachment)
Is this thing essential for a working display? (i thought i can fix it with a drop of glue)
Should the display work when the backcover is off the device? Because there are some connectors on the backcover....
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Shouldn't have done that, I think you accidentally broke something. I'd send it to a HTC service center. But that's gonna cost you probably.
nah, official repair isn't worth it. The phone is more than 2 years old...
and yes i think i broke something... thats why im asking
You're gonna have to be good with a solder and a couple of tiny wires if you want to revive your phone.
00Nuclear00 said:
Hi
I tried to replace my battery and after assemble it back i only get a black display when turning my m7 on.
I broke this little plastic thing from the display cable off (look in attachment)
Is this thing essential for a working display? (i thought i can fix it with a drop of glue)
Should the display work when the backcover is off the device? Because there are some connectors on the backcover....
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You definitively need this clip to be intact so the flex cable sits firmly in place otherwise you'll have bad contact between the cable and the pins.
If you don't want to send to HTC for repair you'll need at least to send it to your local electronic repair shop so someone skilled with the proper soldering tool (not the standard iron you have at home) can replace the connector. BTW some of these clips must be lifted from the cable side and some other from the opposite side of the cable, so next time use tweezers and apply very light force on each side you'll find from what side it must be lifted.
LCD should work fine with the back cover removed, afaik. Connectors in the back cover are often for antennas but I wouldn't recommend to run the phone with antennas disconnected to avoid damaging the radio chips (reflected power).
If you are from the US, you can easily find this connector on ebay for about 10$. I'm sure it won't be that much expensive to repair if you bring the new connector and the phone already disassembled to your local repair shop.
Btw are you sure its only the LCD? When trying to boot the phone can you here the HTC theme or does it vibrate? Recognized by your computer when connected with usb?
thx for your response
I found an replacement part on ebay but first i have to look for someone who can solder this for me.
When i try to turn it on it only vibrates without a htc theme sound and there is no display reaction.
The other thing i mentioned is that the phone gets very hot in the middle (should be the cpu) where i dont know if it should get that hot.
I have to try the pc connetion again and let you know asap.
00Nuclear00 said:
thx for your response
I found an replacement part on ebay but first i have to look for someone who can solder this for me.
When i try to turn it on it only vibrates without a htc theme sound and there is no display reaction.
The other thing i mentioned is that the phone gets very hot in the middle (should be the cpu) where i dont know if it should get that hot.
I have to try the pc connetion again and let you know asap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not really worried about the absence of HTC sound when booting, if your phone is on silent / vibration mode, it will only vibrate when booting. If your computer does detect it once booted, then I guess the broken connector clip is the problem.
---------- Post added at 09:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:27 AM ----------
Here is a video about the connector replacement, it doesn't look that hard to replace but wouldn't recommend to do it yourself if you never soldered electronics before. Soldering isn't that hard but you need some practices and knowledge to make good joints. I don't think your phone motherboard is a good candidate to practices yourself if you never did it before. You'll also need a really tiny tip for your iron, probably a type "L", 50/50 solder + some flux. Flux must be cleaned after use to avoid corrosion. The most difficult when soldering on motherboard, imo, is to find the right temperature. If your iron is to hot, you'll damage your connector. If its not hot enough, solder will take more time to liquefy and some heat will be absorbed by surrounding components which can cause irreversible damage.
Easy fix mate
You don't need to replace the connector, I've done this before, it is just the connector clip that has come off and it goes back on reasonably easily.
You will need a good magnifier.
You will need a good light source.
The phone held securely on its side with the socket pointing up.
Some masking tape on the loose part because it WILL go "ping" into the distance if you don't and you will not find it.
Look at the other connectors to see the proper orientation for the part, mark it with a permanent marker on top and at one end.
The insertion looks difficult, it isn't too bad, keep the part nice and straight and the motion is kind of like clicking it down on the ribbon.
Forget replacing the connector, that is 100 times harder.
If you do lose the loose part I have one or two laying around.
Good luck.