Database Develop

USB Car Chargers

Its seems the charging standards for USB car chargers have not been ratified so there are two different types out there....
So when you buy a car charger, its a little bit of a gamble to weather it will work or not...
This one does work
Ebay item : 130398121842
(its not me selling them)
I'm hear from some source that pins 2 & 3 need to be shorted, also hearing then need a 200ohm resistor between them. If anyone can clear up the confusion, that would be a massive help.
Apart from that, lovin my Streak...

The MotorMonkey doesn't work, although that's not a surprise as it only allows a current draw of 0.7A. The htc branded in-car adapter works fine though...
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App

Desperately need a car charger. Anyone found anything that works ?
Thanks.

Sorry,
duplicate post

Well, in addition to the motormonkey, the Belkin universal usb car charger doesn't work, neither do any sold at Maplin. As a last resort I bought a slimline Power invertor for £15 . . . which promptly fell apart the 1st time I unplugged my charge. This is pretty ridiculous, Dell will not sell the charger unit without the mount. Has anybody found a working car charging option that doesn't cost £50?!

Had my streak for about 3 weeks now and had not tried it in the car but after reading this post i thought i would go and try the car adaptor i had purchased for the TP2 that i had
and viola it worked no problem charged it very fast i have put the link at the end i purchased it from ebay
HERE

Hi,
Just in case it helps anyone, take your existing 12V USB adapter apart if it's not working with the streak and solder pins 2 and 3 together (the middle two, preferably at the PCB end if it has one). Works
I have gone from non-working to working in about 5 mins flat!! I should point out mine is a 1A charger. Think it needs to be with the Streak?
HTH....
PS what an AWESOME device. Just awaiting 2.2 now (hopefully)

Usb car charger
Hi
To anybody having issues with a USB Car Charger, I have managed to solder the 2nd and 3rd Pins in a charger purchased from Ebay, and it works perfectly.
The Item number for the charger from Ebay is # 220605256968
I have taken pictures of a small piece of wire that I used to solder the two points together, incase anybody is wondering how it can be done.
The link for the pics is as follows:
h t t p ://picasaweb.google.co.uk/tallatkhan/USBCHARGER
(delete the spaces between the http above)
Hope this helps!
Tallat Khan

Tis true you can get any plug and just solder middle pins together, I tried about ten of em none worked, blob of solder job done..

I just opened up my USB console I installed on my Harley and soldered pins 2&3 together and now it charges
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I already have a bunch of AC powered USB ports and car USB adapters... A bit of surgery there and I'll be set.

Just did it on a Scosche plug. It has two adapters. I dropped a bit of solder on the circuit board for the middle pins on one plug. That plug now works and the second doesn't.

the solder thing is interesting, ill give it a shot.
i went into the AT&T store for a USB charger, turned out their AT&T branded iPhone charger + USB port won't charge it even though an employee suggested it.

Please Be Careful with this trick.
The Streak WILL draw 1000mA when you solder those 2 pins together.
If the charger is not rated for that, something bad will happen.
I did this as a test to a cheap 12v USB adapter (Off-brand Sony PSP accessories Kit), and the chip in it became very hot within a few seconds. It was charging the Streak, but it would not last long at the temp it was at.
I un-soldered the pins since I would rather have a low-current charger than a burned out charger. The charger was only rated at 500mA.
The Dell House charger is rated at 1000mA, so I would assume that if a charger was rated at 1000mA or greater, and you trust that rating, it is OK to do this.
There is a reason why they did what they did.

Good point, but it should be noted that a decent charger will have a fuse in it.

It isn't the issue having a fuse... many of these "cheap" chargers only support 500mA. If you were to draw too much current, you would likely blow the regulator chip/circuit... Make it have a nice meltdown
That being the case, there are ways to MAKE your own 12v USB chargers that would supply 1A, for not too much money... $4.00 in 2 chips from radio shack and about $10-$15 in other assorted parts. It would never be too pretty, but it would be a custom project that many people enjoy doing. (the original hackers used wire, tape and soldering irons)

I like my Streak to much to fry it. I purchased a cyberpower charger and it works perfectly...

For the record, bought one of these Griffin iTrip Auto Universal Plus FM Transmitter, thought it'd be nice to get the FM transmitter and charger in one. Unfortunately, the charger port DOES NOT work with the streak. Pretty upsetting.
h t t p ://cgi.ebay.com/Griffin-iTrip-Auto-Universal-Plus-FM-Transmitter-iPod-/370320858927?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories
Also, iphone wall chargers will also not charge the streak. That's also upsetting since my last phone was an iphone.

it has 4 pins at the battery contact, I would like to know which pins are postive(+) and negative(-) on the battery contact?
can you help me to do a test on the battery??
thank you vvvvvery much~~~~

Asking the same question in three different threads on the same forum is annoying.

I ended up buying a mains invertor for £15 from Maplin
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App

canadian captivate download mode usb jig no soldering

If you have a samsung galaxy s captivate i896 and have :
phone - ! - computer
or
the phone will not go into download mode and you have tried all button combos
this is what you need to do
go to your local THE SOURCE store and buy
nexxtech resistor value package 1/4 WATT 5% CARBON RESISTORS $5.99
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1) open up the package and find two wires with colour combination
BROWN - GREEN - YELLOW - GOLD (gold is the last one on all of them )
the two wires are 150K each combined equal 300K ohms
2) twist one end of each wire togather and then bend the entire piece into a U shape
View attachment 463946
3) take the U shape and wrap tape around it only leaving a little bit of metal ends exposed
View attachment 463947
View attachment 463948
4) take a micro usb wire ( i used the factory cable included with phone ) and cut the end that you plug into your phone to charge off take a blade and peel away all the plastic until you can see metal and and circut board attached
5) break-off the circut board untill all you can see is the metal plug that goes into your phone and 5 little metal strips on the other end
View attachment 463949
6) remove the battery sd and sim out of your phone
plug in the micro usb plug you just stripped into the phone
put in the battery ( just the battery no sim no sd )
7) now take the taped wires in a U shape and touch one end to the metal strip closest to the headphone jack and take the other end and touch the second metal strip closest to the headphone jack on the micro usb plug hold steady for couple of seconds and you should have download mode
( do not touch metal ends, hold taped sections only)
If you see phone - ! - computer or your phone starts up but not in download mode you did not hold the wires to the plug steady enough take out battery put battery back in and try again

Just a note, not all MicroUSB cables have a nice pin-out like the one you have there. Most of the MicroUSB to USB cables I've seen don't utilize pin 5, so getting access to that pin can sometimes be a PITA.
Glad you got one made up though!

the usb cable i stripped was the factory cable that comes with the captivate edited orginal post to clarify norcal einstein thanks for the pointer

attached is a jpg i made showing clearly which pins need to be connected together on a micro-usb "plug-in" as shown in the above post
i know there is already an image, just it's hard to see and i know finding clear pictures on the internet isn't easy

thanks... ill be hitting radio shack when they open...

Wow, it worked! I thought for sure my Fascinate was bricked. Thanks for the info.
When I was in The Source buying the resistors, I saw a product called 'iGo Power Tips', which allow you to charge virtually all your gadgets from a single charger. It's marketed toward people who will be traveling overseas where the power outlets are different. Anyway, one of the Power Tips supports a micro-USB connection and sells for about $6. Rather than tearing apart my power cord, etc. (which is about $20-$30 around here), I just bought one of these puppies and it did the job. I hope this can save someone a couple of bucks.
Thanks again.
Darryl

compare to the price you paid, it is good to buy it on ebay. it is cheaper and solid build. just search for "micro usb jig".

Edited by the author

I bought 4 micro usb plugs for $2.95 on ebay and spent like $3.50 for the resistors (though enough for 3 jigs) so cost me like $2.15 per jig. Would have cost liek $10-$15 to ship a jig to where i live -_-;

Yeah, I did the same thing, except I didn't look very hard at the resistors in that pack, and got 2 packs so I could have 3x100k. My USB plug is pretty ugly and cheap, and pin 5 is actually on the other side of my plug (I think it's 1 and 5 on the back, and 2,3,4 on the front). But it works, and that's all that matters - got me into download mode after an Odin 1 Click crash at boot.bin totally borked my phone, and my computer couldn't even see it when it was connected (so one click unbrick obviously wouldn't work, it couldn't see the phone).

Thanks mate.. It worked like a charm. I had tried all possible combination button but didn't worked so finally did this method and it worked.. M so happy to get my Galaxy S back..

Considering myself as a semi-experienced flasher, I was skeptical............but it is so easy to hit the contacts that this is a no brainer!!! I actually had free repair set up with Samsung..yes, believe it that they can be so good.......but this did the trick
Forget all the ebay built ones............if you have a RadioShack even 1 hr away, its worth the drive and the $2 or so for this whole fix.
EDIT: I must say that I first saw this one you tube on a video by triggerhappy22, but seeing it here also, made me less skeptical.
And a tip: You can charge the phone even when you are in the soft brick mode. It so happened that my battery was discharged when I was trying various methods to unbrick. I did not realize since the brick screen stays on whenever you connect to the computer via usb. If you take it off the computer and the phone goes black, your battery needs to be charged. So, put it on an external charger for about 1 hour, and you will have enough juice to check if you can get to download mode....
Good luck !!
Second EDIT:: I have ATT CAPTIVATE.so also works in USA !!

Jig works on any Samsung Galaxy S phone, I know it works on Galaxy S II international so I assume it works on any other Galaxy S II. Don't know if it works on Galaxy Note, but probably does considering its basically the same phone bigger screen.
Edit: It works on a TON of samsung products.
Any Galaxy S and Galaxy S II variants
Infuse 4G
Nexus S
Droid Charge
S5830
Impression (SGH-A877)
Galaxy Player
Galaxy Prevail.

The Canadian captivate is the same as the united States captivate!
Sent from my I897 using xda premium

usb looks like this
hi, unfortunately my captivate (build 1011) is hard bricked. I'm trying the solder less methods. first I followed the instruction from forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=889128 but still no result.
now I follow ur instruction. I cut the usb cable and made a 301k wire jig. my usb now looks like this
with the two ends of wire jig do I have to touch just the metal wires of usb? or have to insert them into the tiny holes from the metal wires come out?

it looks like you may have accidentally shorted some of the connections by having the wires or connectors touching each other. this will stop the jig from working, as will dirt or oil on the contacts and wires.
it shouldn't matter whether you touch the wires or the back of the connector where the wire is attached, as long as it is a good connection. inserting into holes is okay, but don't push too hard or you can break the connector contacts.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda app-developers app

Will this work for WAVE 2 phones?

vasilevsk1 said:
Will this work for WAVE 2 phones?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Jig works on the galaxy series, not sure about the others. You'd have to check in the Wave section.

Nook Color Wireless Inductive Charging

This modification was done because I love my Nook Color as my XBMC Remote control for my entertainment center yet I hate to have to wire it to charge it every night.
1x Nook Color
1x Verizon Wireless Charging Inductive Battery Cover
1x Verizon Wireless Charging Pad
Video Demonstration: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jDCfnLNAv4
How To:
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Step 1: Tear apart the wireless charger from the back cover.
Step 2: Use a SHARP scissor to cut around the components until you have just the coil and the pcb board.
Step 3: Use a solder iron to remove the two gold BLOCKS and leave the solder pads.
Step 4: Take thin wire and wire up the + from the picture to the + of the Charge Pad and the Nook Color. BE EXTREMELY CARE FULL THE POSITIVE RESISTOR IS VERY SMALL!
Step 5: Take thin wire and wire up the - from the picture to the - of the Charge Pad and the Nook Color.
Step 6: Thread the wires and position the charge cover directly in the middle of the battery.
Step 7: Close it up and test it out!

I said it in the other thread, but wrong forum, so I'll say it here.
AWESOME! Grats on completing it!
What is the charging rate like?

biohazrd51 said:
I said it in the other thread, but wrong forum, so I'll say it here.
AWESOME! Grats on completing it!
What is the charging rate like?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I charged it from 8% to 100% over night I got tired and didn't log the charge times. I'll leave it die then log the charge times. I did however during the making of the video start at 95% and charge fully in about 10 minutes.

Very nice. It looks very straight forward and fairly simple to do. I'd love to do this to my nook although the components seem to be rather pricey at the moment. Thanks for sharing

Sinatics said:
Very nice. It looks very straight forward and fairly simple to do. I'd love to do this to my nook although the components seem to be rather pricey at the moment. Thanks for sharing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed they are but soon enough they will drop. I was going to use the Palm inductive charging solution but the palm "pad/dock" was angled for the use of a cell phone so I went with the pad since I can just drop the nook on it and it charges.

Totally awesome, might do this in the future.. I wonder if it would work with the case I use (Dessin cover)
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk

thereddog said:
Totally awesome, might do this in the future.. I wonder if it would work with the case I use (Dessin cover)
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I highly doubt the coil will pass through the case. If you were going to try it with a case I'd mount the coil outside the nook and to the case instead of in the nook. Perhaps if you were to put a refrigerator magnet between the nook and the case it would amplify the field I'm really not sure.

Is the pad internal? I was hoping you could take pictures of the mod before and after? that would be totally helpful...

Why not just use the Duracell Mygrid and the micro usb adapter they have ?
http://www.duracell.com/en-US/category/mygrid.jspx

still running strong.

Did you find room inside the NC for the small PCB attached to the receiver coil? Found a charger at ThinkGeek for much less than the Verizon. Just gotta work thru the 30-pin plug for the iPhone. Be great to see your photos of the inside of the NC.
Thanks!

Ok, so I tried this mod. I purchased a Palm Pre cover and dock. I verified that the cover gave 5.5v when docked (to find which was + mostly). I verified the points shown are + and - when a normal charging cord is in. I wired from the points by the USB port to the Palm Pre coil. I again verified that I had 5.5V at that point with the charger in the USB jack. When I connected the coil to the Palm dock, it measures 0 volts and the nook says "discharging".
Is it possible the Palm Pre setup doesn't provide enough amperage?

tightwad said:
Ok, so I tried this mod. I purchased a Palm Pre cover and dock. I verified that the cover gave 5.5v when docked (to find which was + mostly). I verified the points shown are + and - when a normal charging cord is in. I wired from the points by the USB port to the Palm Pre coil. I again verified that I had 5.5V at that point with the charger in the USB jack. When I connected the coil to the Palm dock, it measures 0 volts and the nook says "discharging".
Is it possible the Palm Pre setup doesn't provide enough amperage?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only work with the items i described.

There's gotta be a cheaper alternative than using those. What about the Wii inductive charging system (I think its made by duracell)? What do you have for a reading on charge rate (mA·h)?

very helpfull cool hack!

Space \ ThinkGeek \ Pics and Nook Tablet
naughticl said:
Did you find room inside the NC for the small PCB attached to the receiver coil...Found a charger at ThinkGeek...Be great to see your photos of the inside of the NC.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am especially curious about the PCB on the coil and what it does. Tell the pad to reduce power?
Also I was not able to find such a device at ThinkGeek. Would you post a link, or if not still available would you describe?
I would also like photos of inside the Nook Color and especially if anyone is trying this with the newer Nook Tablet.

Charger Durability
How sturdy is this build. I am asking because I have been through 4 B&N chargers. My nook keeps falling and braking the charger.

bled82 said:
Why not just use the Duracell Mygrid and the micro usb adapter they have ?
http://www.duracell.com/en-US/category/mygrid.jspx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Terrible idea.

Hi,
I gave this mod a try and took some pictures to share.
I was able to get the Verizon cover and one of the energizer chargers to use.
A strange issue I noticed was using the stock nook firmware it says not charging when connected but with android/CM7 it shows charging. Oh well.
Enjoy
ttp://i42.tinypic.com/110hu03.jpg
ttp://i43.tinypic.com/16aa9md.jpg
ttp://i44.tinypic.com/9a4bye.jpg
ps. I cant link so the links above dont have the "H" in "HTTP"

Parts request
What are the parts (charging sleeve and dock) needed for this to work? I only ask because the Verizon pages that were linked in the first post are dead.

[MOD] Android Charging Cable ★..:∞ Use Any USB Charger (Even Apple's) ∞:..★

[MOD] Android Charging Cable ★..:∞ Use Any USB Charger (Even Apple's) ∞:..★
This thread is being created to summarize and condense all the knowledge on the interwebs about charging the Nexus 7 and various other Android Devices.
***I have been told this works for a variety of Nexus/Samsung Galaxy/Blackberry/General Android devices.***
The Google Nexus 7, 10 & 4 (Plus a myriad of other Micro USB devices) will charge from any USB, car or powerbug charger, including those designed for Apple products.
That being said, let's discuss why there are so may issues with chargers/charging with the N7. In order to do that, we need to look at the USB specifications. If you don't care about the technical aspects, feel free to skip ahead to Post #3 (I won't be offended) but please don't ask any questions that are clearly answered here as they tend to clog up a thread.
From Wikipedia:
The USB Battery Charging Specification of 2007 defines new types of USB ports, e.g., charging ports.[48] As compared to standard downstream ports, where a portable device can only draw more than 100 mA current after digital negotiation with the host or hub, charging ports can supply currents above 500 mA without digital negotiation. A charging port supplies up to 500 mA at 5 V, up to the rated current at 3.6 V or more, and drop its output voltage if the portable device attempts to draw more than the rated current. The charger port may shut down if the load is too high.
So basically, The Nexus 7 with a standard micro USB cable with the data (inner) pins not shorted will default to a 500mA charging status using a generic/Apple Charger. You still will NOT CHARGE properly even with a 2.1A generic/Apple USB charger. I discovered that even with the N7 powered off and plugged into a 2.1A car charger not only didn't it charge but I'm pretty sure it drained the battery somewhat too.
So What is the Solution? Create/Modify a standard USB cable to allow the N7 to charge from any USB port! Even one that supplies less than 2.1A.
The only downside is that this cable will be incapable of data transfer.
Some generic chargers will work, however, if it says designed for iPad/Apple, chances are you'll need the modded cable.
I have built some of these cables and will show you how to build one yourself using the wonderful tool that is digital photography... Please excuse my less than wonderful photographic skills. Read on for instructions and Photos!
UPDATE: Android 4.2's Kernel has enabled charging without these cables (&$^#&%*!). They still will be useful for other devices on older versions of Android.

The History
So, I looked forever to find a solution. The Targus Universal USB Car Charger (2.1A) has a small (3") adapter cable that comes with it, ostensibly for the Galaxy Tab. That little cable also allows the N7 to be charged from ANY 2A car charger. I was using the adapter with a Scosche reVOLT c2 - Dual 10 Watt (2.1A) USB Car Charger (low-profile) Model# USBC202M
This is the Targus adapter connected to the charger and a standard USB cable.
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After some research I discovered the information located in the OP and decided to modify some of my USB cables to work as charging only cables for the N7. This cuts down on the clutter on my dashboard and I don’t need to use an adapter to charge.:victory:​

The Method
The method is fairly simple assuming you have a basic working knowledge of wire stripping, soldering and such.
The Materials Required::
A Micro USB Cable
A Soldering Iron
Electrical Solder
14 & 28 AWG Stranded Wire (American Wire Gauge) Strippers (A really sharp pocket knife and steady hands can be used instead, but it's harder)
Electrical Tape -OR- Liquid Electrical Tape
Heat Shrink Tubing (1/4" to shrink to 1/8")
A Heat Gun (A lighter will work but this is very tricky and dangerous and NOT recommended, Try a very Hot Hairdryer instead)
ENSURE THE USB CABLE IS COMPLETELY UNPLUGGED PRIOR PERFORMING ANY WORK
• First cut the USB cable in two. I recommend cutting it about 3/4 the way down toward the micro (Device) end.
• Strip about 1 inch of both ends of the USB cable (usually 14 AWG Stranded). If the cable is good quality you may find both bare wire and foil shielding around the 4 wire bundle.
• If present, unwrap and cut off both foil and bare wire.
• On the charger ended cable, Strip a bit off of the Red and Black wires (see photos) and shorten but don’t strip the Green and White wires.
• If you are using Heat-Shrink (Highly Recommended) slide it over the USB cable before making any connections. A 3 inch piece should be more than sufficient. Just remember it needs to cover both the job and a bit of the unbroken cable on each end to ensure a good fit and protection.
• On the device ended cable (micro) Strip a bit of wire off the end of all four of the wires.
• On the device ended cable (micro) Twist and solder the GREEN and WHITE wires together.
• Reconnect the 2 cable halves as follows:
o Twist the Black wires together and solder. I prefer to do it straight as in the photo but side to side works too, it’s just bulkier.
o Twist the Red wires together and solder.
o REMEMBER: Only a small amount of solder is required. The bigger the blob, the worse the job.
• Now you have a choice: You can lightly coat the soldered joints in liquid electrical tape (recommended) or wrap them individually in standard electrical tape. Standard electrical tape is trickier to use since the wires are so small. Since it’s only 5V, not a lot is required. For the liquid (dries in 5 minutes) I did 2 light coats to ensure I coated all exposed wire.
• Now place the wires next to each other and either:
o Slide the Heat-Shrink over the entire break, ensuring you have covered some unbroken cable on each end and apply a heat with a heat gun or a hairdryer on hot. Don’t hold the heat source too close or you can melt either your USB cable or the heat shrink. Use a sweeping back and forth motion for best results. -OR-
o Wrap the entire job in electrical tape, ensuring to have covered at least ½ inch of cable on each end. Wrap with overlapping wraps (spiral like) from one end of the break to the other and then without cutting the tape, reverse and still using the overlapping wraps, wrap back to the starting point.
• That’s it! The completed cable should look like this

The Test
To test this I used a Belkin Surge Suppressor with 2 USB charging outlets. I believe the amperage rating of the charging ports is only 0.5A each.
As you can see, using an unmodified USB cable, The Nexus wouldn’t charge:
Using the Modified USB Cable, Viola!
REMEMBER: Even though the Nexus 7 will draw current from less than 2.1A chargers, They may not provide sufficient current to charge your Nexus while in use. I used the 0.5A charger as an example. I created this cable for use in my car on the 2.1A cigarette lighter plug-in.
I hope this has helped you

<Reserved>

and now the guide to make it for pogo pins!

pogo pins
Flowyk said:
and now the guide to make it for pogo pins!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm working on that one.

I am waiting on delivery of a batch of PCBs for a pogo pin charger based on the N7 dock.

Re: [MOD] Android Charging Cable ★..:∞ Use Any USB Charger (Even Apple's) ∞:..★
Prostheta said:
I am waiting on delivery of a batch of PCBs for a pogo pin charger based on the N7 dock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oooh... from what source?
Sent from my Nexus 4 or 7

I ordered these at a Forum member suggestion, from Monoprice dot com. They work perfect either with the factory charger or a Nook Color charger:
5457 3ft USB 2.0 A Male to Micro 5pin Male 28/24AWG Cable w/ Ferrite Core (Gold Plated) $1.10. I bought 3 @1.10 each and $3.30 shipping for total of 6.95. They also worked with my Samsung phone.
..

Re: [MOD] Android Charging Cable ★..:∞ Use Any USB Charger (Even Apple's) ∞:..★
2kst said:
I ordered these at a Forum member suggestion, from Monoprice dot com. They work perfect either with the factory charger or a Nook Color charger:
5457 3ft USB 2.0 A Male to Micro 5pin Male 28/24AWG Cable w/ Ferrite Core (Gold Plated) $1.10. I bought 3 @1.10 each and $3.30 shipping for total of 6.95. They also worked with my Samsung phone.
..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not bad!
Sent from my Nexus 4 or 7

TheByteSmasher said:
Oooh... from what source?
Sent from my Nexus 4 or 7
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Custom fab. It's basically an N7 dock circuit but slimmed down so it can be used in thin frames. I have a few designs I want to try out for custom wooden docks.

Re: [MOD] Android Charging Cable ★..:∞ Use Any USB Charger (Even Apple's) ∞:..★
Prostheta said:
Custom fab. It's basically an N7 dock circuit but slimmed down so it can be used in thin frames. I have a few designs I want to try out for custom wooden docks.
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I had a similar idea.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

I don't get something. Maybe I'm missing something but wouldn't it be a lot easier to just solder the two pins inside the USB connector head?

ineedaname said:
I don't get something. Maybe I'm missing something but wouldn't it be a lot easier to just solder the two pins inside the USB connector head?
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Depends on what you find easy... I think that working with wires is easier and neater when done... It's harder to cut open the USB head and then uglier when done and you need to be MORE careful when you solder and you're working with smaller bits... Your choice though...

Question.
Would there be any problems with me shorting the two data pin outs on the charger side?

ineedaname said:
Question.
Would there be any problems with me shorting the two data pin outs on the charger side?
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Technically, no.

TheByteSmasher said:
Depends on what you find easy... I think that working with wires is easier and neater when done... It's harder to cut open the USB head and then uglier when done and you need to be MORE careful when you solder and you're working with smaller bits... Your choice though...
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Anyway I took a pic of a plug to show u what i meant by shorting the plug because I don't think u knew what I meant. Basically soldering where the red line is. I think it would probably easier this way than cutting up the wire.

ineedaname said:
Anyway I took a pic of a plug to show u what i meant by shorting the plug because I don't think u knew what I meant. Basically soldering where the red line is. I think it would probably easier this way than cutting up the wire.
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Seems to me you stand the chance of damaging your USB outlet this way...
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Not pretty but easy and works great. Thanks for the information.

Stock Samsung Galaxy S3/Note 2/S4 Micro USB Cable Modification

Since the plastic housing in the micro USB end of my USB cable was falling apart, I decided to open it up to see what's inside. The following will be half a recount of what I did and half instructional directions.
The cable actually uses a very surprising design. The wires aren't soldered onto the micro USB receptacle, but instead there are vampire teeth (because they puncture two holes into the wire) like contacts on the plug that pierce into the wire through the insulation.
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The wires are threaded into this green plastic retainer through each of the 4 holes. Directly above each hole, there is a letter in the recessed triangle area shown below but they are so small that they are invisible to my Note 2's camera.
The letters read from left to right as follows: R W G B - corresponding to Red, White, Green and Black respectively as shown in the above picture.
And here is a closeup of the vampire teeth contacts:
Note that there are only 4 contacts - there isn't one for pin 5 ID, meaning you can't make it an OTG plug.
What I did was ditch the original cable for a 3 metre long one. I just so happened to have a broken 3m Apple Lightning Cable lying around, so I cut the Lightning connector and stripped the white cable by about 1 cm, leaving the individual coloured cables unstripped.
In order to remove the cable anchor, I had to strip it off the original cable like you would with a regular wire (without cutting through the core and pulling the insulation off), cut it lengthwise (horizontally/inline with the micro USB connector) then remove the twisted wire and foil shielding. Then from the inside of the anchor I also had to remove the remnant cable insulation to accommodate for the new cable.
Then in the correct order, I insert the four wires into the green plastic retainer and snap it back against the vampire teeth contacts. To ensure they make good contact, I used a pair of pliers to clamp the green plastic retainer into the dark grey vampire teeth holder with just enough force to not break the plastic (if that made sense). At this stage, plug the cable into the phone and then to a computer to make sure it is making good contact to avoid having to open it up again.
I then re-assembled the metal case (noting the up/down orientation) and crimped the wire anchor securely onto the new cable.
To re-install the two halves of the cable anchor, I used a generous amount of brush-on super glue on anything that needed it, also noting the up/down orientation of the parts. If unsure, assemble the connector without any glue to ensure the correct orientation.
And this is the finished product! It is as close to original as I could make it without using the "traditional cut-both-cables-and-reconnect-Frankestine-style-using-heatshrink" method. As seen here, the cut made to the cable anchor is visible but it seems like a very stable bond.
The plastic casing is almost as if it hadn't been opened before.
Now I have a custom-made 3m micro USB cable that looks like the stock one, but with much more flexibility!

Wow! Thanks for the very informative post. I've been staring at a pile of near dead cables wondering if it would be easy to revive them.
Are you getting a full charge strength through it (using something like GCC to measure)? All the microusb cables I've bought thus far won't carry but maybe 700, if I'm lucky; generally about 400.
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spycedtx said:
Wow! Thanks for the very informative post. I've been staring at a pile of near dead cables wondering if it would be easy to revive them.
Are you getting a full charge strength through it (using something like GCC to measure)? All the microusb cables I've bought thus far won't carry but maybe 700, if I'm lucky; generally about 400.
-----
I would love to help you, but help yourself first: ask a better question
http://www.catb.org/~esr/faqs/smart-questions.html
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I suppose I am getting a full charge current. It's the same reading as the stock cable, anyway. 1698 mA is about 1.7 A.

Update: Realistically though, I think it only charges at around 300 mA, which leads to my Note 2 to charge to only 80% in 8 hours. How disappointing. I should've known better than to use a cheap generic cable that was obviously too thin.

Good looking job anyway!
Do you suppose this plug could survive another operation?

looks very good

vantt1 said:
Update: Realistically though, I think it only charges at around 300 mA, which leads to my Note 2 to charge to only 80% in 8 hours. How disappointing. I should've known better than to use a cheap generic cable that was obviously too thin.
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The ONLY cable I trust is from monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5457&seq=1&format=2 (you can also find it on amazon).
They clearly specify 24AWG rating for power wires (max 3.5A), and 28AWG rating for signal. Plus you get ferrite core filter, which I suspect only wrapped around power wires to filter out any high current spikes and to keep EMI away from signal wires, and gold plated connectors. I have been using these wires at home and in my car for years. For $1.20 (for 3ft) and also in black or white and 1.5ft, 3ft, 6ft, 10ft, and 15ft variation you can't beat it.

vectron said:
The ONLY cable I trust is from monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5457&seq=1&format=2 (you can also find it on amazon).
They clearly specify 24AWG rating for power wires (max 3.5A), and 28AWG rating for signal. Plus you get ferrite core filter, which I suspect only wrapped around power wires to filter out any high current spikes and to keep EMI away from signal wires, and gold plated connectors. I have been using these wires at home and in my car for years. For $1.20 (for 3ft) and also in black or white and 1.5ft, 3ft, 6ft, 10ft, and 15ft variation you can't beat it.
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Have you tried the 10 or 15ft version?

vantt1 said:
Have you tried the 10 or 15ft version?
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No, only have 6ft version; found it to be the most ideal length in the car and also at home/work.
With a wire that thick, 15ft will not be a problem since you will have a very small voltage drop.
The problem with ebay and some other cheap amazon cables, they use pc usb wires intended for 500 mA standard.

I was looking for a high quality USB cord. All of them have been pos (plural form) I just ordered 3...for that price you can't beat it.... Just need a spare charger that gives me a rated 1.8 minimum. I see it's an ongoing problem with the cords and or chargers when it comes to these phones. This really helped. Thanks
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It might be possible for me to go down to an electronics shop, buy a long 4 core 24-ish AWG cable and make my own high-current USB cable from my existing cable.

Nice work!

I just don't see how in the world you got the white cover off.
My phone slid onto the floor while charging and I guess landed just right. It bent the end of my oem cable (the only freaking cable I had that would charge "quickly")
It is bent at about a 45 degree angle. It also pulled the white casing apart a little.
Since the cable is pretty much useless now, I decided to try to pry that piece open so I could look inside and see if there was anything I could do to "fix"it.
I have been trying for 30 minutes and I cant get it apart. It won't budge except that it is starting to crack.
I guess I'm just not capable of doing these things.
Sent From My Ginormous Note 2

planetbeen said:
I just don't see how in the world you got the white cover off.
My phone slid onto the floor while charging and I guess landed just right. It bent the end of my oem cable (the only freaking cable I had that would charge "quickly")
It is bent at about a 45 degree angle. It also pulled the white casing apart a little.
Since the cable is pretty much useless now, I decided to try to pry that piece open so I could look inside and see if there was anything I could do to "fix"it.
I have been trying for 30 minutes and I cant get it apart. It won't budge except that it is starting to crack.
I guess I'm just not capable of doing these things.
Sent From My Ginormous Note 2
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Mine just so happened to conveniently break along the seam on one side, so I just needed to lift it up. Also, I'd consider myself to be pretty good at taking things apart without breaking them, then reassembling it to look like it hasn't been opened before.