Database Develop

MyGuide 3100 ROM sample

This is a FLASH-able ROM sample. My question is : Is there any way to edit this and add more programs to it ? (the flash is for some of the MyGuide 3100 devices on the market. another question : is it the same for my device ?)
I tried to flash my device with this... it worked but it still does'n boot. only the boot image has changed. it's still frozent at about 8-10%.
Here is the sample :
http://rapidshare.com/files/140578865/MYGUIDE_3100_DACH_Inand_Update.rar

Guess no one is able to give a hand with this ?
the persisent registry do not want to go away even after flashinf it. i guess it just replaces the os and bootloader anl does not touch the partition that holdes the registry. any ideea how can i make it delete/replace the registry too ?
the device has 3 partitions (it copies the windows folder on RAM) :
1. The bootloader
2. the registry
3. the OS ( called BINFS - i can see but not edit or copy)

hello,
once i received my myguide 3100, it did NOT start.
it rested on a bootscreen showing some kind of "progress bar".
i managed to fix this by installing the firmware again, downloaded at the manufacturers website http://www.myguidegps.com/
it worked for a few months properly. since last week, i've got the same problem again....
but unfortunateley, the manufactuerer does NOT provide any more support...
seems they are insolvent or some...
could one of you guys gife me the original firmware for this device to get it working?? the one in this thread does not.... dont know why
would be SOOO nice

myguide3100 - arival naca400
Hello!
I have a similar problem with a A_rival naca400 which is said to be a clone of myguyde3100. Can you help me with a rom and drivers for myguide3100 try to write in arival?

Bricked my device using the downloaded firmware
Hello. I also have a big problem with My 3100: I downloaded the firmware attached to the first post and fleshed it to my device. Unfortunatelly, something really is wrong , because the update never reached 100%, it allways stops at 98%. Since then (about 2 weeks) i searched all around the web but couldn't find anywhere another firmware (a good one this time). forumleecher, you mentioned you have a valid firmware. Could you be so kind to upload it somewhere for me and others who need it? The original source, www.myguide.com is no longer available, since the company bancrupted and all it's sites are gone. Would be a great help.

Please help us with some good rom for myguide3100.
Looking for a few weeks and yet I found something that works.

You should be very careful by downloading and flashing devices by accident.
There are different hardware platforms of MyGuide 3100 on the market and flashing the wrong ROM will cause boot failures.
Afaik there are no ROMs available in the net (haven't discovered yet) and MyGuide is insolvent.
Cheers

sdr you solve this problem??? and how

MyGuide 3100 GO
same problem here, i am looking 4 a good rom

OK guys. I know how to do total hard reset registry and rest MyGuide 3100(i had the same problem with registry boot keys)
Download this first
http://rapidshare.com/files/299528735/myguide_3100_total_reset.rar
1. First You have to open PNA, disconnect power supply, SD-card etc.
2. After that You have to desolder this big metal cover.
3. Under this cover You will find k9f2g08 Chip.
4. Now you have to connect pin 9 to GDN and connect the battery.
5. Now wait until progress bar start moving, after he start, disconnect Pin 9 from GND.
6. The progress bar should load normal to the end and on the screen should be picture with SD-card.
7. Disconnect battery, assemble PNA and have fun
CHIP ENABLE RUlezz
[email protected]

hi
Mice20 said:
OK guys. I know how to do total hard reset registry and rest MyGuide 3100(i had the same problem with registry boot keys)
Download this first
http://rapidshare.com/files/299528735/myguide_3100_total_reset.rar
1. First You have to open PNA, disconnect power supply, SD-card etc.
2. After that You have to desolder this big metal cover.
3. Under this cover You will find k9f2g08 Chip.
4. Now you have to connect pin 9 to GDN and connect the battery.
5. Now wait until progress bar start moving, after he start, disconnect Pin 9 from GND.
6. The progress bar should load normal to the end and on the screen should be picture with SD-card.
7. Disconnect battery, assemble PNA and have fun
CHIP ENABLE RUlezz
[email protected]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
unfortunately not functional on MyGuide 3100 go

What exactly is happening with your PNA??>
Maybe You did something wrong.... GND connection or wrong PIN..?
Tell me what display is viewing ???

Hello
My daughter had a problem with her MYGuide 3100, it simply would not switch on any more.
I stripped the unit down and removed the big metal cover (not very well but it worked anyway) and then found this...
You can see a different chip to the Samsung one noted but I have guessed that it is just a matter of where they sourced the chips from.
Chip used to ground pin 9...
So I ground pin 9 and followed the instructions to now find that I get this...
The unit now boots but the progress bar will no longer progress beyond the amount shown in the above photo.
THe unit can no longer be switched off, but just reset. It also is not recognised by Windows and thus is not accessible.
It gives me the impression that sadly the unit is dead

In this type of nand FLASH memory, You have to connect pin nr 30 to GND and fallow with step's .
Pin 9 is NC(non connected) so that's reaction for GND connection is totally normal.
PS. I don't have email notification about post's here so if You can give me a shot about progress on my mail too ([email protected])

Thanks for what you have posted but alas it simply does not work. I found details of the chip too and realised that I needed to short a different pi, the one that you have so kindly noted, but it still does not allow the unit to boot.
This has also been noted here...
http://forums.ebuyer.com/showthread.php?t=11402&page=66
I am guessing that the ROM image is somehow corrupt and even though there is RomUpdate_RD_R01.exe available without a working USB connection, or an image to upload, then it is just a dead GPS.

Ok. So You have broken rom......Last chance to wake him up is desoldering the chip and write rom file on it in external programmer (Willem, cheapest one).
My solution is working for wrong writed registers(but rom must be ok).
Write , if You need deeper details

I appreciate your help. However the sourcing of a programmer and then the likelihood of me being able to desolder that chip has made in beyond my levels of skill to repair.
Thank you again for your help

write with what?
Mice20 said:
Ok. So You have broken rom......Last chance to wake him up is desoldering the chip and write rom file on it in external programmer (Willem, cheapest one).
My solution is working for wrong writed registers(but rom must be ok).
Write , if You need deeper details
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I still can't find a rom image for 3100 go....

You will find him on working PCB of 3100go. This is the fastest way

Thanks Mice
Mice20 said:
You will find him on working PCB of 3100go. This is the fastest way
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the fast reply, unfortunately I don't have another one....
If you have a hex file or someting like that and you can post it please do it.
Now I try to find a jtag solution.

[Q] Am I screwed? Odin one click gone bad

Long story short I was going back to stock after some troubles with a rom and kernel but after a couple minutes of being connected to odin (and working) I bumped my phone and it dropped. When I picked it up I noticed it was stuck on a blue or purpleish screen so I took the battery out and tried to boot into download mode (or any mode) without any luck. At one point I did see a few lines written in red dealing something with rfs but now I get nothing. No power up to anything now. Any ideas on what I may do to get back into download mode and redo odin? Please any suggestions would be helpful... Am I screwed?
Thanks

Remove the battery for a minute or so and try download mode again by inserting the USB cable with no battery then hold the buttons while inserting the battery. If that fails try a jig.

opcow said:
Remove the battery for a minute or so and try download mode again by inserting the USB cable with no battery then hold the buttons while inserting the battery. If that fails try a jig.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can't get with the steps above try to use the AIO Toolbox to get to download mode. I made a video for it HERE.
If none of that works, try to make a JIG watching this VIDEO.
Although I recommend just buying a nice conventional one from my website for just some spare change. You can buy one for $10.00 right now HERE.

Thanks for the replies guys, I will try this out when I get home from work today. It is just good to hear that I should be able to get out of this jam and get my phone back.

Ya I Have has the problem with odin giving be random colors.just keep trying to flash with odin and it should work
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

build a jig yourself or buy it online, ebay has some decent deals, $7.99 ...

So after getting home and following first steps above (battery out hold buttons etc..) it powered up to the screen I kind of mentioned earlier today. It's in red writing and it is as follows
"RST_STAT = 0x1
PMIC_IRQ1 = 0x3c
PMIC_IRQ2 = 0x0
PMIC_IRQ3 = 0x0
PMIC_IRQ4 = 0x0
PMIC_STATUS1 = 0xc0
PMIC_STATUS2 = 0x2c
*"
So this is what I get and I am now going to try the AIO Toolbox. If anyone else has any suggestions please feel free to let me know.
Thanks

UPDATE!!
It took like 30 or more times but somehow after not coming up into download mode (only with the red writing from above post) it finally did. My phone is back now. Thanks to all who offered suggestions and I have no idea how it finally went into download mode but it did and thats all that matters at this point I guess. Now comes the fun part of making this phone actually work like it is supposed to.

Lol dude, don't worry. I would make a Jig or buy one though(Despite you already fixing it), because after I bricked and fixed my phone, I bricked it another 10 times at least. Makes life a lot easier.

miahsoul said:
Lol dude, don't worry. I would make a Jig or buy one though(Despite you already fixing it), because after I bricked and fixed my phone, I bricked it another 10 times at least. Makes life a lot easier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 build a jig or buy one online just in case

Bricked Captivate Assistance

Hi team. I've searched the forums for answers and even though I've read a thousand excellent posts, none (of course) fit my situation specifically. I'll try to be as brief as I can.
My AT&T-branded, Chinese imported Captivate was only three weeks old when I first soft-bricked it trying to do an update using Kies (thanks Samsung!) and then because it would only go into download mode, I tried using Odin to reflash back to where I was. The flash didn't take and I was left with nothing; no charging icon, no computer recognition (Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit using the generic Samsung Android phone drivers downloaded from somewhere on XDA) and no boot/download mode; in other words, hard-bricked and nothing working.
I bought myself a riffbox and spent a long time reading various forum posts about using it; I own a computer repair company and have flashed a million motherboard, modem, router and other firmwares over the past 15 years and have even done a Samsung S2 and a Galaxy Pad in the last week so am reasonably comfortable with the process, even though I'm not hugely experiences yet with the riffbox.
Anyway, I imported and soldered the recommended panasonic socket to the JTAG point and made myself some PCB adapters to fit and break out the Riffbox cables. That's all done and dusted and today I used the Riffbox on my Captivate for the first time, apparently detecting the 'dead body' and flashing the ROM successfully (the box and software would soon tell me if something wasn't right). While I hoped it would, I didn't expect my phone to boot straight away, but did expect it to go into download mode, as suggested in the JTAG literature with the Riffbox. This is where it all gets bent out of shape.
I always get into download mode with my Captivate by dropping the battery and then replugging with the Vol + and - buttons held. I have tried all methodfs I can find on XDA but all either don't work or do the same thing, that is, my phone enters download mode for about ten seconds, then drops out again. During that time, all USB devices 'hang' while the computer tries to fathom what the hell is connected there and Andy just holds his shovel and laughs at me before disappearing once again into the inky blackness of a dead screen. The device manager shows an unknown device detected before letting it go again and mouse and keyboard control resumes. Weird. I thought it might be a flat battery but I've charged that so it has plenty of juice. When plugged via USB, there is 4 volts at the battery terminals (measured with the battery out) so it would charge when plugged in (wall wart or USB cable) even though no icon shows.
Like any good tech I went back and reflashed using both the recommended ROM and 'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash) and the phone still does the same thing; enters download mode then off. I made up a USB dongle/jig using exactly 301 kilohms of resistance (measured digitally) across pins 4 and 5 and followed the various videos/explanations to get into download mode that way but this does not work on my phone, leading me to think something else is broken.
Bottom line is that it seems the phone doesn't have to be connected via USB to enter download mode but if Windows cannot load the phone, then I cannot use Odin or Heimdall to reflash it. I don't think it is drivers because it worked OK before the brick (well, not perfectly but it did connect and I had USB drive support etc.) and besides, I have tried reinstalling drivers to no avail. Can anyone suggest anything I can try (shipping it to some guy in the USA is not the answer I'm going for here so please don't waste your time or mine). As far as I can see, I have done everything the people here suggest and the JTAG/Riffbox instructions to the letter but it just does not want to happen. I'd rather not lose the phone and since I eventually want to offer this sort of service in my business, I want to get it to work on my own phone for my own pride and knowledge.
Cheers from Christchurch New Zealand.

Follow up.
davenz said:
Hi team. I've searched the forums for answers and even though I've read a thousand excellent posts, none (of course) fit my situation specifically. I'll try to be as brief as I can.
My AT&T-branded, Chinese imported Captivate was only three weeks old when I first soft-bricked it trying to do an update using Kies (thanks Samsung!) and then because it would only go into download mode, I tried using Odin to reflash back to where I was. The flash didn't take and I was left with nothing; no charging icon, no computer recognition (Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit using the generic Samsung Android phone drivers downloaded from somewhere on XDA) and no boot/download mode; in other words, hard-bricked and nothing working.
I bought myself a riffbox and spent a long time reading various forum posts about using it; I own a computer repair company and have flashed a million motherboard, modem, router and other firmwares over the past 15 years and have even done a Samsung S2 and a Galaxy Pad in the last week so am reasonably comfortable with the process, even though I'm not hugely experiences yet with the riffbox.
Anyway, I imported and soldered the recommended panasonic socket to the JTAG point and made myself some PCB adapters to fit and break out the Riffbox cables. That's all done and dusted and today I used the Riffbox on my Captivate for the first time, apparently detecting the 'dead body' and flashing the ROM successfully (the box and software would soon tell me if something wasn't right). While I hoped it would, I didn't expect my phone to boot straight away, but did expect it to go into download mode, as suggested in the JTAG literature with the Riffbox. This is where it all gets bent out of shape.
I always get into download mode with my Captivate by dropping the battery and then replugging with the Vol + and - buttons held. I have tried all methodfs I can find on XDA but all either don't work or do the same thing, that is, my phone enters download mode for about ten seconds, then drops out again. During that time, all USB devices 'hang' while the computer tries to fathom what the hell is connected there and Andy just holds his shovel and laughs at me before disappearing once again into the inky blackness of a dead screen. The device manager shows an unknown device detected before letting it go again and mouse and keyboard control resumes. Weird. I thought it might be a flat battery but I've charged that so it has plenty of juice. When plugged via USB, there is 4 volts at the battery terminals (measured with the battery out) so it would charge when plugged in (wall wart or USB cable) even though no icon shows.
Like any good tech I went back and reflashed using both the recommended ROM and 'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash) and the phone still does the same thing; enters download mode then off. I made up a USB dongle/jig using exactly 301 kilohms of resistance (measured digitally) across pins 4 and 5 and followed the various videos/explanations to get into download mode that way but this does not work on my phone, leading me to think something else is broken.
Bottom line is that it seems the phone doesn't have to be connected via USB to enter download mode but if Windows cannot load the phone, then I cannot use Odin or Heimdall to reflash it. I don't think it is drivers because it worked OK before the brick (well, not perfectly but it did connect and I had USB drive support etc.) and besides, I have tried reinstalling drivers to no avail. Can anyone suggest anything I can try (shipping it to some guy in the USA is not the answer I'm going for here so please don't waste your time or mine). As far as I can see, I have done everything the people here suggest and the JTAG/Riffbox instructions to the letter but it just does not want to happen. I'd rather not lose the phone and since I eventually want to offer this sort of service in my business, I want to get it to work on my own phone for my own pride and knowledge.
Cheers from Christchurch New Zealand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since none of the gurus here bothered to respond I'll do it myself in case someone else finds the same issue.
Turns out the battery was faulty; I replaced it and succeeded in getting the phone into download mode with both the jig and the usual methods. Then the computer would not recognize the phone, the dreaded 'unknown device' in the device manager. I was using the factory cable that came with the phone but tried a third-party one I had for a Chicom HTC copy I had lying around and this allowed the phone to be recognized by Windows (go figure). I used Odin to unbrick/reflash and it is all go now, interestingly both cables now work for the phone within Windows so it is always worth trying something even though it makes no real sense to do so.

Darn, that is exactly what I was going to say to do!
Next time, try a rotating disc nebulizer, which you can redesign with respect to the principle parameters that determine its analytical performance. The flow pattern of the aerosols you will attain can be optimized by altering the shape of the inner chamber for optimum aerodynamic characteristics. Furthermore, the optimum angle of impact needs to be established using particle size distribution and mass transport efficiency as criteria. Any analytical characteristics you determine will be through monitoring the emission signal from an aqueous standard. The accuracy has to be assessed by using reference steel and iridium samples.
It is easy to construct, and the fundamental component is a rotating disc onto which a liquid sample is introduced. It should require no additional spray chamber and be easy to operate effectively. Once in operation it should produce aerosols with mean droplet diameters of approximately 0.50 µm.
You may then utilize inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry to determine the defect.:good:

^
ROFLMAO !!!!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium

Rotating Disc Nebulizer
-SGA- said:
Darn, that is exactly what I was going to say to do!
Next time, try a rotating disc nebulizer, which you can redesign with respect to the principle parameters that determine its analytical performance. The flow pattern of the aerosols you will attain can be optimized by altering the shape of the inner chamber for optimum aerodynamic characteristics. Furthermore, the optimum angle of impact needs to be established using particle size distribution and mass transport efficiency as criteria. Any analytical characteristics you determine will be through monitoring the emission signal from an aqueous standard. The accuracy has to be assessed by using reference steel and iridium samples.
It is easy to construct, and the fundamental component is a rotating disc onto which a liquid sample is introduced. It should require no additional spray chamber and be easy to operate effectively. Once in operation it should produce aerosols with mean droplet diameters of approximately 0.50 µm.
You may then utilize inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry to determine the defect.:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is excellent advice and ordinarily I would agree 110%, however I have found that the later model Rotating Disc Nebulisers have an inherent fault in the flange valve regulator, which in turn affects the lead mercury ratio and results in even harder bricking of susceptible devices. If, however, you feather an older nebulizer with the updated underhead/overhang mod then even the nastiest conflibulator inversion is easily bypassed. Just for information's sake...

davenz said:
This is excellent advice and ordinarily I would agree 110%, however I have found that the later model Rotating Disc Nebulisers have an inherent fault in the flange valve regulator, which in turn affects the lead mercury ratio and results in even harder bricking of susceptible devices. If, however, you feather an older nebulizer with the updated underhead/overhang mod then even the nastiest conflibulator inversion is easily bypassed. Just for information's sake...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMG, that was some seriously original stuff! Anyone try Googling "conflibulator inversion"? This is the only result, lol!
Glad to hear your flashing worked out, I think the process you followed is a lot more in depth than many of us would ever undertake...

-SGA- said:
OMG, that was some seriously original stuff! Anyone try Googling "conflibulator inversion"? This is the only result, lol!
Glad to hear your flashing worked out, I think the process you followed is a lot more in depth than many of us would ever undertake...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I wasn't about to throw away 350 bucks (our money, which is worth about three chickens and a bag of salt in anyone else's currency) and since I pride myself in being able to fix anything, the challenge was set in motion when I discovered (via this excellent resource) that the Captivate was a) hard to brick (I found it pretty easy to be honest) and b) the hardest to unbrick.One poster claimed that if you can unbrick a Captivate you can unbrick anything, so I had to give it a go. After all, what did I have to lose?
As I mentioned, I intend to diversify my computer repair business into mobile gadget repairs anyway and I can think of nothing more noble than unbricking phones. I learned an incredible amount on the way through the whole process and while just having the tools doesn't make me an expert, I'm happy to work my way toward that goal and if I help others on the way, well, it's a win/win.
Thanks for the entertaining posts and cheers from Christchurch, New Zealand.

I sure hope you tried locating the flux capacitor before going through all that work. Could have saved you from having to go through the whole "Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose" process.

Glad to hear you are de-worse-ifying your biz.
You should add the left-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe to your tools. I am told its use dramatically improves GPS performance, and provides immediate position locks to some position, however distant from where you thought you were.
-written whilst sipping high temperature psychoactive botanical filtrate in my ceramic gravitational containment vessel with plalangeal bracket (aka coffee in my mug).
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using xda app-developers app

Thanks
wwcjr91 said:
I sure hope you tried locating the flux capacitor before going through all that work. Could have saved you from having to go through the whole "Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose" process.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now you tell me! The entire Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose scenario had me stumped there for a while but after referencing 'Nocturnal Urinary Releases and other Stories', the famous Declan-decoding text by I. P. Nightly, a liberal application of lubricating gel in all the right places had the whole thing well in hand...
And as for the left-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe, that's again where I went wrong with a newbie mistake. Sadly I ordered the right-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe and of course it didn't moglify the selindicular quadronizer at all. In fact, it broke it off at the chalisticator and left me up the paddle without a creek, so to speak. Nevertheless, a little old-fashioned luck and a tap with the old thorificating polookanizer soon had things back on track.
Now all I need is another Speckled Jim for the halitosinifer (do you REALLY want to know?) and all will be well in my world (which is not like other worlds if posts on XDA are anything to go by...)
Thanks all for your excellent input, it has been a journey through the looking glass!

well i really liked the "brilliantly" thought of posts about the legendary tools mentioned... hehe
i was really looking forward to more comments to lighten up the mood
pls keep posting
3 cheers
btw i am also stuck at dead hard brick on my cappy
regards

alot of youtube videos provide help on unbricking

...'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please.
Someone know what Gremlin Zone exactly is?
Location in OneNAND ? Or somewhere else?
Maybe adresses or dump of Gremlin Zone would be nice.
Thanx in advance.
Best Regards

adfree said:
Please.
Someone know what Gremlin Zone exactly is?
Location in OneNAND ? Or somewhere else?
Maybe adresses or dump of Gremlin Zone would be nice.
Thanx in advance.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the person to ask would be AdamOutler. You're asking for some deep knowledge in general

Droid 4 problem - no screen or white scrambled screen

Hey so just recently I have been having a hard time trying to get my phone to work again. This one morning I wake up to find my Android screen with a grey and white screen (picture in attachment) it looks somewhat like that but vertical.
Anyways I have tried turning off the phone but still get this screen. I can however get back to both the AP fastboot screen just perfectly. My warranty JUST ran out a month ago and they say I can send it in for 187 bucks but honestly, it seems as though its not a hardware problem and more of a software issue. Please help, I dont want to have to give Verizon my money for a software issue i can fix myself lol

ShnbFire said:
Hey so just recently I have been having a hard time trying to get my phone to work again. This one morning I wake up to find my Android screen with a grey and white screen (picture in attachment) it looks somewhat like that but vertical.
Anyways I have tried turning off the phone but still get this screen. I can however get back to both the AP fastboot screen just perfectly. My warranty JUST ran out a month ago and they say I can send it in for 187 bucks but honestly, it seems as though its not a hardware problem and more of a software issue. Please help, I dont want to have to give Verizon my money for a software issue i can fix myself lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can get to the fastboot screen have you tried fastbooting the stock firmware? Try using this utility: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2207384. Use option 2 if you don't want to wipe out your data.

kwyrt said:
If you can get to the fastboot screen have you tried fastbooting the stock firmware? Try using this utility: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2207384. Use option 2 if you don't want to wipe out your data.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Si I tried that option and I still get the same screen x_x

It seems I got the exact same problem as described in this post, and the issues started only recently. To give some more information, these are the phases the phone went through.
It started with the phone acting like the proximity sensor was activated, the screen would go out at random times or turn off and on. I got the idea it was the sensor next to the right of the Motorola logo, there actually was a scratch right on this sensor and I thought this was the problem. When I would put my thumb over this sensor the phone would work normally as long as I kept it covered, alternatively the phone would work normally when I would slide open the phone.
The next part was that the screen no longer would come on when I pressed the power button, it would activate some part of the backlight, but the screen would stay black. Rebooting the phone would help, the Motorola logo showed fine, then the Droid logo came on fine and also made sound. But the moment where it should show the SIM lock screen in Portrait mode it did not show anything at all anymore. Sliding the keyboard open resulted in showing the SIM lock screen, however it would not take any input from the keyboard at that moment, so I could not unlock the phone.
When trying the [email protected] application I could view the screen perfectly on my laptop, so the phone was still working, but it would simply not show anything on the screen. Touching the screen on the phone would results in buttons pressed on the [email protected] screenshots, so I could unlock my phone this way. So even though the screen would not show anything the touchscreen would still work.
Sadly enough the current status is that the screen gives the same image as shown in the first post of this thread (it doesn't even show the Motorola logo anymore), so I can no longer use the phone and also [email protected] does not show any screenshots anymore. However the phone is still being recognized by the program (and I guess ADB).
I got the feeling the problems are a combination of some hardware problem and the software reacting very badly on it. I originally had the idea to disable the proximity sensor somehow by flashing a different rom (running stock now). I am not sure if that is still possible, but I will look into it. Any advice would be appreciated.

Alright guys, I have the same exact problem. Except I am not able to even get to the Motorola screen. I have some pictures that I am wanting to get off the phone. When I plug it up to my computer, I get the little ding that the phone is connected, but it doesn't show up under my drives. I'm not sure what to do at this point. I have my old D3 I can use, but I'm more concerned about trying to get my information off the D4. I can't get into the boot menu at all. As soon at I plug the phone up from being dead it goes to the static screen.

At this moment my phone went on to the next stage, it doesn't show anything at all anymore. Some boots I get the white scrambled screen from the start, but now it is just a black screen. However, I can still connect to it through adb, but the phone is not rooted so I am limited with what I can do with it.
Code:
> adb shell getprop ro.build.description
cdma_maserati_mmi-user 4.1.2 9.8.2O-72_VZW-18 19 release-keys
Code:
[email protected]_maserati:/ $ lsmod
lsmod
pvrsrvkm_sgx540_120 321639 0 - Live 0x00000000
btwilink 3478 0 - Live 0x00000000
wl12xx 136026 0 - Live 0x00000000
mac80211 220250 1 wl12xx, Live 0x00000000
cfg80211 163432 2 wl12xx,mac80211, Live 0x00000000
compat 2546 0 - Live 0x00000000
evfwd 4666 0 - Live 0x00000000
cifs 254412 0 - Live 0x00000000
moto_crypto 95621 1 - Live 0x00000000
The log file (adb logcat -s *:E) shows me the following:
Code:
--------- beginning of /dev/log/main
12-07 01:22:58.125 7534 7535 E FramebufferNativeWindow: couldn't open framebuffer HAL (Not a typewriter)
12-07 01:22:58.125 7534 7535 E FramebufferNativeWindow: couldn't open gralloc HAL (Not a typewriter)
12-07 01:22:58.125 7534 7535 E SurfaceFlinger: Display subsystem failed to initialize. check logs. exiting...
12-07 01:22:59.671 7554 7554 E PhonePolicy: Could not preload class for phone policy: com.android.internal.policy.impl.PhoneWindow$ContextMenuCallback
12-07 01:23:03.289 7555 7556 E FramebufferNativeWindow: couldn't open framebuffer HAL (Not a typewriter)
12-07 01:23:03.289 7555 7556 E FramebufferNativeWindow: couldn't open gralloc HAL (Not a typewriter)
12-07 01:23:03.289 7555 7556 E SurfaceFlinger: Display subsystem failed to initialize. check logs. exiting...
12-07 01:23:04.828 7572 7572 E PhonePolicy: Could not preload class for phone policy: com.android.internal.policy.impl.PhoneWindow$ContextMenuCallback
Snippet from adb logcat -s *:I):
Code:
12-07 13:18:19.093 6237 6237 I ServiceManager: Waiting for service SurfaceFlinger...
12-07 13:18:19.093 5822 5822 I ServiceManager: Waiting for service SurfaceFlinger...
12-07 13:18:19.117 5799 5799 I ServiceManager: Waiting for service SurfaceFlinger...
12-07 13:18:19.125 5741 5741 I ServiceManager: Waiting for service SurfaceFlinger...
12-07 13:18:19.125 6064 6064 I ServiceManager: Waiting for service SurfaceFlinger...
12-07 13:18:19.140 4752 4752 I ServiceManager: Waiting for service SurfaceFlinger...
I do know it is a phone and not a typewriter The SurfaceFlinger error might be where the problem is. I am however out of idea's at this moment. If I could get root access somehow I could recover my data by imaging the 'disk'.

Like suggested in this thread I tried fastbooting to the stock firmware (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2207384, option 2). This did not fix the issue for me neither.
Before trying the fastboot stufff, be sure to have a full battery (the battery might keep draining because of the constant white scrambled screen). To check the battery status with adb use:
Code:
adb shell cat /sys/class/power_supply/battery/capacity
I looked in to using the exploit by Dan Rosenberg on this device (http://vulnfactory.org/blog/2012/02/11/rooting-the-droid-4-a-failed-bounty-experiment/ ) However this exploit needs a device which actually boots. Which in this case is not happening, so this exploit does not give root permissions.
It seems that the Droid 4 is running Linux Kernal 3.0.8
Code:
Linux localhost 3.0.8-g473e586 #1 SMP PREEMPT Fri Feb 8 13:28:58 CST 2013 armv7l GNU/Linux
We might want to look in to finding a kernel exploit to escalate privileges on the adb shell.

Since the phone was not working anymore my focus was to recover my data from it. However, the problem I was facing was that I could not access the user files on the phone since I did not have root rights. The solution I sought for was getting root access on the Droid4 by exploiting a vulnerability. Because I only had adb access to a not fully started system the exploit named earlier in this thread did not work so I had to look for something like a kernel exploit. I luckily had some help from some friends, and they pointed me to the following exploit which worked: h t t p s : / / github.com/android-rooting-tools/android_run_root_shell (since I have less than 10 posts, I can not post links)
To use the exploit, compile the source code and copy the file to the Droid4 (also copy the device.db file):
Code:
adb push run_root_shell /data/local/tmp/run_root_shell
adb push device.db /data/local/tmp/device.db
You can copy the files to the /data/local/tmp directory on the phone (you can write here as a user without root rights), make sure to make the file executable and then run the exploit. The exploit can find all the values it needs itself (slow) or get them from the device.db database (fast), for a single use root exploit the slow approach will do, but if you need to use the exploit a couple of times I recommend to use the device.db. The current device.db on the site does not contain the Droid4, but this information will be submitted to the git system, so it will be included in the near future.
In the mean time you can insert the following information in to the device.db file yourself.
Code:
insert into supported_devices(device_id, device, build_id, check_property_name, check_property_value) values(185, 'DROID4', '9.8.2O-72_VZW-18', null, null);
insert into device_address(device_id, name, value) values(185, 'prepare_kernel_cred', 3221997068);
insert into device_address(device_id, name, value) values(185, 'commit_creds', 3221995156);
insert into device_address(device_id, name, value) values(185, 'remap_pfn_range', 3222276972);
insert into device_address(device_id, name, value) values(185, 'ptmx_fops', 3230673008);
Output of the slow version of the exploit (without the information added to device.db):
Code:
127|[email protected]_maserati:/data/local/tmp $ ./run_root_shell
./run_root_shell
Device detected: DROID4 (9.8.2O-72_VZW-18)
Try to find address in memory...
Attempt msm_cameraconfig exploit...
Detected kernel physical address at 0x80008000 form iomem
Attempt fb_mem exploit...
Detected kernel physical address at 0x80008000 form iomem
Failed to open /dev/graphics/fb0 due to No such file or directory
You need to manage to get remap_pfn_range addresses.
Try copying kernel memory... It will take a long time.
Attempt get_user exploit...
Search address in memroy...
Using kallsyms_in_memroy...
prepare_kernel_cred = 0xc00bc60c
commit_creds = 0xc00bbe94
ptmx_fops = 0xc0902870
Attempt acdb exploit...
DROID4 (9.8.2O-72_VZW-18) is not supported.
Attempt fj_hdcp exploit...
Attempt msm_cameraconfig exploit...
Detected kernel physical address at 0x80008000 form iomem
Attempt put_user exploit...
[email protected]_maserati:/data/local/tmp # id
uid=0(root) gid=0(root)
The fast version of the exploit (with the information added to device.db):
Code:
127|[email protected]_maserati:/data/local/tmp $ ./run_root_shell
./run_root_shell
Device detected: DROID4 (9.8.2O-72_VZW-18)
Attempt acdb exploit...
DROID4 (9.8.2O-72_VZW-18) is not supported.
Attempt fj_hdcp exploit...
Attempt msm_cameraconfig exploit...
Detected kernel physical address at 0x80008000 form iomem
Attempt put_user exploit...
[email protected]_maserati:/data/local/tmp # id
id
uid=0(root) gid=0(root)
Now we have root access we can access the partitions we want, to easily download the partitions through adb (on Linux) you can change the rights to the partitions with the following command:
Code:
chmod 777 /dev/block/mmc*
With the non-root user now having access to the partitions, you can download them with the following commands.
For the userdata partition:
Code:
./adb pull /dev/block/mmcblk1p24
For the full disk inside the phone:
Code:
./adb pull /dev/block/mmcblk1
For the sdcard it will be:
Code:
./adb pull /dev/block/mmcblk0
This pull request will take a while, statistics from downloading the userdata partition and whole disk on my machine:
Code:
755 KB/s (3279945728 bytes in 4239.895s)
414 KB/s (15938355200 bytes in 37526.406s)
To read the information from the partitions you downloaded you can, among other things, mount them in Linux or use a tool like FTK Imager on Windows.
I would like to thank and credit both blasty and ius for helping me out and finding the right exploit plus device.db values. In case anyone needs the compiled exploit and updated device.db file, just send me a PM and I will provide it to you.

Has someone found out what created the trouble?
Hello Guys, im also a Droid 4 user. I have seen such problems already before on a Xperia Mini Pro. I think this is a slider issue or a bad manufacturer thing. When i inspected the issue of the Mini Pro, I have found that the flex cable between the device and screen was broken. Probably because it was carried in the trouser pocket (The space between screen and main device where to low an the force broke the LCD Flex Cable between them). This can't happen on the PopUp sliders like the N97 / E7 and N950 because the flex cable dosen't need to move that much and is way better folded.
Maybe because the phone dosen't see a screen it also cant initialise the Frame-buffer with the screen size (the screen is not telling the size anymore).
I would have a look at the flex cable, a new costs about 20 $ at ebay but as you see on ifixit.com the Droid 4 is not that good repairable.
Success!

The broken flex-cable theory actually makes sense, I had this problem in the past with Samsung clamshell phones, and I actually hoped this issue would not exist anymore in the current day. It might also explain the phone slowly degrading more and more until it doesn't do anything at all anymore with the screen, it would fit in with the cable slowly wearing more and more.
I will try to check the cable to see if anything is wrong with it, however I would expect more people to run in to this problem, and till now I only counted 3 people who are all in this thread.

To give a better overview of the problem for people who might face this in the future, here is a photo of what the screen shows:
My next step is to take the Droid4 apart to see if the flexcable is ripped.

Hawkje said:
I will try to check the cable to see if anything is wrong with it, however I would expect more people to run in to this problem, and till now I only counted 3 people who are all in this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did this fix your problem? I've got exactly what your picture shows! Thanks for you help.

sprouty73 said:
Did this fix your problem? I've got exactly what your picture shows! Thanks for you help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I still have to take the phone apart to see if the cable is actually ripped. I switched to a temp phone for the moment till I got the time to look at this again. Since there does not seem to be any other good qwerty phone I will try to fix my Droid and not replace it.

Took my Droid apart tonight, however the LCD cable did not have any clear rips in it, only some really small marks, which might as well have been the result of taking it apart.
Not sure what to do next, I will probably order a new LCD cable to see if replacing it will help. Till then my Droid will look like this...
https://twitter.com/ThiceNL/status/423243176149676033/photo/1

Courtesy update: Never bought the LCD cable, because it was almost 50% of buying a new (2nd hand) phone (from Ebay), so I went with that option. I do got a lot of spare parts now

Any Luck?
I have the exact same problem, has anyone figured out how to fix this white screen of death for the Droid 4? I'm guessing it's chipset related.

pjpjammer21 said:
I have the exact same problem, has anyone figured out how to fix this white screen of death for the Droid 4? I'm guessing it's chipset related.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your screen looks like this
50% chance it's the LCD Flex cable
40% chance it's the LCD
10% chance it's something else

Thanks for the quick reply. I have a spare phone that is bricked but the screen works so I could do some parts swapping!

Same exact problem
I have ordered a refurbished droid 4 ($33!) and will put my old motherboard in that. If it works, it was the LCD cable, if it doesn't motherboard/ kernel issue.... I have not been able to figure any other way to get my data. PC recognizes the drives, but says they are empty, data recovery tools can't even see the droid, and I am not smart enough to figure out ADB... Will let you know how it goes...

I'd just use the refurbished droid unless you have a particular value of your current board. Mine works well.
Sent from my XT894 using Tapatalk
My comprehension skills failed me momentarily. Your data is valuable. I wish you the best outcome

Help desperate situation. Note 9 audio dead

Note 9 Exynos Purchased in India.
But my audio has stopped working.
I spent days and nights trying to see if anybody else has faced a similar situation and could not find much info.
XDA gurus my last hope.
Samsung's support is bad. here. The less said the better.
I finally pulled the trigger and did a factory re-set. That too did not help.
Here is a funny thing.
I can shoot pictures but I can't shoot Video.
If I plug my headphones in nothing happens.
The only thing that works is blue tooth headset but not for calls.
If I can figure out what parts need changing I can order them. And try replacing them.
The only Part I could find is this.
https://shopee.com.my/Krcb-98512-Fo...CUD07XjfwNIQZ3inXJADNm-X84Ea9PHVLt7NMgOSL74Fo
Update:
I finally tracked the problem down to the latest update. Soon after the update. Phone started to get hot. And also charging took longer than normal. Audio slowly stoped working.

You can try the following diagnostic tools, if anything to confirm if you have a hardware issue:
1) Dial *#0*# on you dialler and you get Test Mode from where you can test various hardware, including audio
2) In Samsung Members app go to Phone Care and select Interactive Tests. There you can find another set of hardware diagnostics that you may find useful.
Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

Done sir.
Im pretty sure the Audio IC is blown.
Just need to confirm the part number to order.
kta said:
You can try the following diagnostic tools, if anything to confirm if you have a hardware issue:
1) Dial *#0*# on you dialler and you get Test Mode from where you can test various hardware, including audio
2) In Samsung Members app go to Phone Care and select Interactive Tests. There you can find another set of hardware diagnostics that you may find useful.
Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Just in case somebody else has this problem I am sharing info as I find it.
It would seem the IC needed is MAX98512
And you can download the full Note 9 schematic from my google drive here.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15MPFlmcnupHqU_4ZAkPOyWo5QeBj9XI-/view?usp=sharing

How do I figure out which IC to change. 98512 or 9896B
Could not find any info online. Other than 98512 is an audio amp and 9896B is audio IC.
Further reading & research seems to link this to the latest Android 10 update.
A lot of other people have faced similar problems on various phones. And 90% of the time the only solution is to have the mainboard replaced.
Just google android 10 updates broke my phone.
So far I have done 3 factory data re-sets. Each time trying something new like this time I did not update from backup. Still, my max98512 seems to be the problem.
I have placed an order for new chips from aliexpress.
Not being able to roll back really suck.

So I got this idea. To figure out if its a software issue or a hardware issue. Need to see if the device drivers are loading or not.
This info can be found by bootin up into recovery mode then view log. Open log last-kmsg
Its a pain to read. And I have not figured out a way to access the data via adb most of the instructions do not work on non rooted phones.
Can anybody with a working note see if the get this message in their log.
star-madera sound: Failed to parse codec DAI for uaif -517
@34%
max98512 6-0039 failed to read [0x0402][-121]
[max98512 _debug] max98512_i2c_probe: failed to read 0x402 [-121]
max98512: probe of 6-0039 failed with error -121
@56%
ALSA DEVICE LIST
no soundcards found
warning unable to open console
I need to know what is the text that shows up on the line after ALSA DEVICE LIST on a working phone.
The TWO ICS handling audio are max98512 and CS47L90 Ignore my earlier comments Indian Note 9 is different audio IC.
By this I can figure out if its a file corruption issue or a hardware failure issue.

RonChinoy said:
So I got this idea. To figure out if its a software issue or a hardware issue. Need to see if the device drivers are loading or not.
This info can be found by bootin up into recovery mode then view log. Open log last-kmsg
Its a pain to read. And I have not figured out a way to access the data via adb most of the instructions do not work on non rooted phones.
Can anybody with a working note see if the get this message in their log.
star-madera sound: Failed to parse codec DAI for uaif -517
@34%
max98512 6-0039 failed to read [0x0402][-121]
[max98512 _debug] max98512_i2c_probe: failed to read 0x402 [-121]
max98512: probe of 6-0039 failed with error -121
@56%
ALSA DEVICE LIST
no soundcards found
warning unable to open console
I need to know what is the text that shows up on the line after ALSA DEVICE LIST on a working phone.
The TWO ICS handling audio are max98512 and CS47L90 Ignore my earlier comments Indian Note 9 is different audio IC.
By this I can figure out if its a file corruption issue or a hardware failure issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Following here, my father Note 9 same problem and he think it very very bad work by Samsung to put out such devices to break after only 1.5 year of use, His old Nexus 4 is still working and running Android 9 custom ROM thanks to XDA Developer!
Samsung have done something bad, and it is to charge same amount to repair the phone as buying a new phone
So instead of repairing dead audio Note 9 at Samsung its better to do it unofficially I think :silly:

silvaBR said:
Following here, my father Note 9 same problem and he think it very very bad work by Samsung to put out such devices to break after only 1.5 year of use, His old Nexus 4 is still working and running Android 9 custom ROM thanks to XDA Developer!
Samsung have done something bad, and it is to charge same amount to repair the phone as buying a new phone
So instead of repairing dead audio Note 9 at Samsung its better to do it unofficially I think :silly:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did they quote because one guy was quoted 18,000 I was quoted 26,500,
Yes I agree we save up for years or take out 2-3 year EMI to pay for these phones and then they don't last even 2 years. Samsung can not even explain why it failed. My Water sensor is not tripped. Phone has never been dropped or has a single scratch on it.
Im now using a 5 year old one plus that saw my daughter thru school and collage and its still going strong. Even after multiple drops in water.
Anyway if your interested I am importing all the Audio ICs 10 of each and plan to repair it myself.
The problem with getting outside guys to work on it is they try to reball the existing IC. And if that does not work They put in used parts.
Lets see if this is a s/w issue or a hardware issue if we can get a last_kmesg log file from a working phone we should be good to go.
I found this in the log.
audio_hw_proxy_9810: fast_out-proxy_open_playback_stream: PCM Device is not ready with Sampling_Rate(48000) error(cannot open device '/dev/snd/pcmC0D2p': No such file or directory)!
I really want to go back to Android 9. I don't even mind triping my Knox now.

RonChinoy said:
So I got this idea. To figure out if its a software issue or a hardware issue. Need to see if the device drivers are loading or not.
This info can be found by bootin up into recovery mode then view log. Open log last-kmsg
Its a pain to read. And I have not figured out a way to access the data via adb most of the instructions do not work on non rooted phones.
Can anybody with a working note see if the get this message in their log.
star-madera sound: Failed to parse codec DAI for uaif -517
@34%
max98512 6-0039 failed to read [0x0402][-121]
[max98512 _debug] max98512_i2c_probe: failed to read 0x402 [-121]
max98512: probe of 6-0039 failed with error -121
@56%
ALSA DEVICE LIST
no soundcards found
warning unable to open console
I need to know what is the text that shows up on the line after ALSA DEVICE LIST on a working phone.
The TWO ICS handling audio are max98512 and CS47L90 Ignore my earlier comments Indian Note 9 is different audio IC.
By this I can figure out if its a file corruption issue or a hardware failure issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi, please guide me how to read logs. I have note 9 SM-N960F on android Pie Indian firmware.
@34% it is showing some frequency logs and 56% about some gamma values and pannel .
---------- Post added at 11:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:04 AM ----------
here i found this method on samsung website to dump the logs.
SysDump tool:
Launch the Phone app.
Enter *#9900# to launch the SysDump tool.
If the Debug Level is Disabled/LOW, tap to select MID. This restarts the device.
Reproduce the issue that you would like to troubleshoot.
Repeat steps 1 to 2 to launch the SysDump tool.
Tap Run dumpstate/logcat.
Tap Copy to sdcard. This copies a timestamped .log file to the folder /log, which you can access through My Files in your personal space.
You can send the file to Knox Support, using one of these methods:

well found max98512 6-0039
for "ALSA DEVICE LIST" please share pic, it may help to find it.

The way I got to see my last_Kmesg was to go into system recovery i.e. power on with 3 buttons pressed. You get the menu which allows you to re-set the phone or wipe cache partition in that screen there is an option to view logs. From there I read the log.
Its a tiny font and took me 2 hours lol.
But chk this out. Just google Just google android 10 mic fix or android 10 audio problems.
And you will see that a lot of phones have been hit by this.
Not just samsung. But many brands. Some have found solutions some have not.
I think the first step for us is to figure out how to go back to Android 9.
If even after doing that the problem is not resolved then we have to replace the Audio ICs.
I belive the problem was caused by the update. And then it gets bad to the point where it destroys the audio IC.
Pixel phones had a similar problem where the android 10 spoilt sensors at the hardware level.
I was not able to find a directory /log or any files following your steps.
When you google Note 9 audio IC you get this link.
https://www.deviceparts.com/9896b-audio-ic-for-samsung-galaxy-note-9-ori.html
I have placed the order for this along with Max98512 but I can not find any reference to the 9896b IC is any of the Samsung Service manuals.
Lets focus on how to roll back to android 9. Because I think there were some massive changes to how audio is handled in android 10 and that is what spoilt our phones.
Basically due to overheating after the update. It was a crapshoot to see which IC lost contact.
Some people lost on display IC and some on Audio.
My Max98512 IC has arrived.

As to Samsung Claiming offically in writing to me that there were no Audio related problems reported after the update.
Show the lying [email protected]#[email protected]@ this simple google link.
https://www.google.com/search?newwi...TIuMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXrAAQE&sclient=psy-ab
Can we use this method to roll back to Android 9 ? I heard rollback is not possible. ?.
Can somebody clarify ?.
https://www.rprna.com/news/how-to-rollback-from-one-ui-2-0-beta-android-10-to-one-ui-1-1-android-9/

it only possible if you have beta version of andriod 10 installed in your phone. if you have updated to stable version of andriod 10 then it is not possible.

Munawar Mehmood said:
it only possible if you have beta version of andriod 10 installed in your phone. if you have updated to stable version of andriod 10 then it is not possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a. I hope the Deves on XDA can fix this problem and figure out a way for us to roll back.
b. We put enough pressure on Samsung to allow us to roll back. Which I doubt as so many failures suits their agenda of getting you to buy a new phone.
c. We just address the parts that have failed and hope that they last.
==========================
Latest Update:
I was able to get my back cover off. Without cracking the glass or scratching anything it took me an hour but I took it slow on purpose.
Right chuffed with myself. Next step is to chk the speakers with a Multi Meter Then extract the board and inspect it. Water sensors are ok they were not tripped.
The Fingerprint flex was a nightmare to get off in the end it popped off on its own. And the flex nearly tore but did not.
The next step is to try and extract the mainboard and do a physical inspection and look for any damaged parts and to try and locate the Max98512 and the Audio Codec chip.
Im struggling here without the schematics. But my suspicion was right there is heating up all over the board. At the audio and you can see where the solder paste balls have separated from components. I see it near the display chips and near the audio chips.
There are tiny balls of melted solder all over the board.
Everything from the main chips to small components like SMD caps and resistors have over heated and shed these tiny balls of lead all over the board.
Im working without a microscope using a plastic pocket scope we use to read plugs.
Plan is to clean out all these melted balls and then put some flux and re-flow the lead. The Max98512 I will have to lift to see what the heat has done to the pads below.
I can't see any conformal coating on the board. This means if you live in places like India were we see humidity off 80-90% it can wreak havoc with your phone without even tripping the water sensors.
Today's plan is to pull the main board off. Wash it in Iso. Then used compressed air to blow off all the tiny balls of lead. Then fresh flux and lead. And then if I can get it to work. To coat the complete mainboard in a moisture-proof conformal coating.
I can't imagine why they would not coat the boards.
If you open up a Honda ECU after 25 years you will find that the board is still shiny. The lead looks fresh. And the reason is that they use a conformal coating.
And the reason why the audio and display ICs are getting hit the worst is that they have zero heat sinks. Im no expert but why would you run an Audio Amplifier IC with no heat sink. Makes zero sense to me.
============================

If you have an audio problem and are working with the 98512 here are the other parts you will need around it. These are the supporting components.
SCH Part # Part Desc
C8004 2203-009859 / 22000nF,20%,10V,X5R,TP,1608,T (Damaged)
C8002 2203-009858 / 10000nF,20%,10V,X5R,TP,1005,T
L8002 2703-005505 / 1uH,20%,2016,T1,0.043Ohm,42
Top
R8052 2007-007741 / 10KOHM,1%,1/20W,TP,0603
C8006 2203-007796 / 1000NF/1uf,20%,10V,X5R,TP,0603,0.
C8014 2203-008860 / 1000NF,20%,16V,X5R,TP,0603,0.
Btm
C8000 2203-008097 / 100NF/0.1uf ,10%,25V,X5R,TP,0603,0.3
C8002 2203-009859 /22000nF /22uf,20%,10V,X5R,TP,1608,T
C8004*2203-009858 /10000nF / 10uf,20%,10V,X5R,TP,1005,T
C8077 2203-008466 / 0.033nF,5%,16V,C0G,TP,0402,0.
C8003 2203-007621 / 100nF,10%,6.3V,X5R,TP,0402,T0

Thanks guys I solved my problem.
Purchased a Microscope, a soldering station, and a Max98512 AMP IC.
It took me 3 months but I did it.
I did try taking it to a shop. He soldered the IC on so poorly that the phone stopped booting up. And one 10K resistor blew. So decided to do it myself. Samsung Service will not do board level repair. ANd those out there offering this service 90% are uneducated without the right tools for the job.