I have been very dissapointed with the performance of the X1 camera even after installing the R3 cab. It was imposiible to capture anything that moved because by the time it took the photo my subject had left the vicinity lol.
Following the advice of another poster (sorry, cant remeber who but thanks) I set my focus to infinity. Now, I can take full 3mp, fine quality pics, use the zoom function and capture crisp, clear images...even when the subject is moving. This combined with Resco Photo Viewer has been the final missing piece of the X1 jigsaw.......forget the X2 Ill now keep my X1 for as long as I can
Hah, I will check this out than!
Nice advice, works flawless! The pictures are not shaken anymore...
But tell me: how do you zoom? Does the x1 have the option to zoom?
Cheers
Zooming
Use the volume up and down button. Didnt work with 3mp and auto focus but works a treat now!!
just remember there is no optical zoom only digital zooma, so the more you zoom the worse the picture.
Well, even with infinity focus I can't zoom in 3mp mode. It says "cannot zoom in this quality mode". Man. Do you guys use R3A or has it nothing to do with it. Or is there a newer camera program?
oTToToTenTanz said:
Well, even with infinity focus I can't zoom in 3mp mode. It says "cannot zoom in this quality mode". Man. Do you guys use R3A or has it nothing to do with it. Or is there a newer camera program?
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Yes, have installed R3A cab so maybe that's the difference with the zoom function. Well worth doing as it also has auto flash and GPS functionality.
You can zoom as long as the image is set to less than the max (3 mega pixels for the X1). Its always been like this on every WM and nonWM phone I've ever had.
i always thought infinity would be the worst option
thnx for the tip!
Still blurry indoors for me. Are y'all saying that this solves that issue for you? Only thing that works to get rid of blur for me is to change to action mode and keep flash on, but pictures are still pretty dim.
ring-bearer said:
Still blurry indoors for me. Are y'all saying that this solves that issue for you? Only thing that works to get rid of blur for me is to change to action mode and keep flash on, but pictures are still pretty dim.
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The infinity "trick" doesnt effect the ability of camera to take good pics in poor light. It just lets you take good quality pics instantly rather than suffering the lag between button push and photo taken.
Sonus said:
You can zoom as long as the image is set to less than the max (3 mega pixels for the X1). Its always been like this on every WM and nonWM phone I've ever had.
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I have my camera set for 3mp and fine quality, have just double checked and it seem that with the R3A cab installed the zoom function is available with all of the focus options.
hey thanks for the advice, it really helps.
biernes_atrece said:
i always thought infinity would be the worst option
thnx for the tip!
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As a photographer I can hopefully shed some light on this - the percieved 'shutter lag' that most people experience on consumer grade cameras and cellphone cameras has nothing to do with shutters (actually nearlly all of these don't have shutters, but 'hot' shutters where the imaging sensor is just sampled for 1/x seconds), but to do with focus acquisition. On a DSLR, focus is performed using phase-detection using a seperate and extremely quick method (also hence why DSLRs have reflex mirrors).
On cellphones, where there's a far smaller sensor, and no room to beamsplit with mirrors, autofocus is done by measuring contrast on the main sensor, focus is moved in increments from MFD to Infinity, contrast of the image measured, until the sensor detects the maximum available contrast, then focus locked at that point. Because this has to essentially traverse the entire focus range (which admittedly isn't that huge), and is performed on a small sensor with fairly low contrast, the process isn't fast. It is decently accurate though.
By setting the focus to Infinity, the camera doesn't focus, as focus is just fixed at the further possible focal point. This would usually present an out-of-focus issue, (and it still would), but due to the depth of field relationship to sensor size, a camera with a small sensor has a large given depth of field, and, the hyperfocal (the point after which all distances are in acceptable focus) is relatively close, and the depth of field at infinity also encompasses a large slice of distance. Because of this, a large amount of the image will always likely be in focus, especially for stuff that's not right in front of the camera, and the delay of focusing is eliminated, so when you hit the shutter release, the photo just takes, and it's likely in focus just fine
flashpanda said:
As a photographer I can hopefully shed some light on this - the percieved 'shutter lag' that most people experience on consumer grade cameras and cellphone cameras has nothing to do with shutters (actually nearlly all of these don't have shutters, but 'hot' shutters where the imaging sensor is just sampled for 1/x seconds), but to do with focus acquisition. On a DSLR, focus is performed using phase-detection using a seperate and extremely quick method (also hence why DSLRs have reflex mirrors).
On cellphones, where there's a far smaller sensor, and no room to beamsplit with mirrors, autofocus is done by measuring contrast on the main sensor, focus is moved in increments from MFD to Infinity, contrast of the image measured, until the sensor detects the maximum available contrast, then focus locked at that point. Because this has to essentially traverse the entire focus range (which admittedly isn't that huge), and is performed on a small sensor with fairly low contrast, the process isn't fast. It is decently accurate though.
By setting the focus to Infinity, the camera doesn't focus, as focus is just fixed at the further possible focal point. This would usually present an out-of-focus issue, (and it still would), but due to the depth of field relationship to sensor size, a camera with a small sensor has a large given depth of field, and, the hyperfocal (the point after which all distances are in acceptable focus) is relatively close, and the depth of field at infinity also encompasses a large slice of distance. Because of this, a large amount of the image will always likely be in focus, especially for stuff that's not right in front of the camera, and the delay of focusing is eliminated, so when you hit the shutter release, the photo just takes, and it's likely in focus just fine
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Thanks for the mini lecture. I've been trying to get good bokeh/DOF blur on my X1 and K850, this helps in telling me which settings to focus on (no pun intended)
harveydent said:
Thanks for the mini lecture. I've been trying to get good bokeh/DOF blur on my X1 and K850, this helps in telling me which settings to focus on (no pun intended)
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Heh, you're welcome. If you're trying to get narrow DOF/bokeh effects on your X1 and K850, I'm afraid to say you're pretty much out of luck, the (tiny) imaging sensors on phones leads them to have a very large depth of field at any given aperture. Your best chances for getting the smallest depth of field and best bokeh possible is to have a subject extremely close to the X1, focus near, and have the background seperated and relatively far away.
flashpanda said:
Heh, you're welcome. If you're trying to get narrow DOF/bokeh effects on your X1 and K850, I'm afraid to say you're pretty much out of luck, the (tiny) imaging sensors on phones leads them to have a very large depth of field at any given aperture. Your best chances for getting the smallest depth of field and best bokeh possible is to have a subject extremely close to the X1, focus near, and have the background seperated and relatively far away.
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That's what I do, actually I usually include a secondary subject in the background to make the DOF blur easily appreciated.
Plus, I have a modded camdriver for the k850 which allows manual focus. No luck finding one for the X1, though.
Thanks Crank1.
I was getting peeved about the quality of the pics and the lag.
No I get perfect pics every time! (well for a phone camera)
manual focus would be so awesome
I was was wondering if there's a way to make the camera auto focus without the need of touching the screen to focus it.
Its possible?.
Whipon said:
I was was wondering if there's a way to make the camera auto focus without the need of touching the screen to focus it.
Its possible?.
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Under the settings (gear on bottom left), first page, the focus type should be set to Auto Focus.
From my experience it automatically focuses on whatever is in the box on the screen... however if you want the focus to be on something outside of that area, then you tap on the screen to change the focal distance.
You can test this for yourself by taking a picture of an object that is close to you, keeping it in the box and not tapping the screen, then switching to an object farther away, keeping it within the box... both pics should be properly focused. Finally, take a pic with a closer object outside the box, then tap to select the object and change the focus... the closer image will be in focus even though it is not directly in the center of the picture.
Well, thanks a lot.
I already had the focus type configured as Auto Focus.
Tried taking some pictures and the focus seems to be well, but I think pics taken by touching the screen to focus the camera have much better quality.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
I would tend to agree with that... I usually tap the screen myself as long as I have time... but in a pinch when I just need a quick shot, then it's just point and shoot.
Hi Guys
Does anybody know of a way to disable auto exposure? When I take pictures, often I want to focus on a particular area and 99% of the time that area seems to be darker or lighter so the exposure is adjusted automatically and I hate this as it often washes out images or over exposes other areas. I just want to be able to touch to focus and the exposure not change ... Is this possible?
Thanks
AllAboutTheCore said:
Hi Guys
Does anybody know of a way to disable auto exposure? When I take pictures, often I want to focus on a particular area and 99% of the time that area seems to be darker or lighter so the exposure is adjusted automatically and I hate this as it often washes out images or over exposes other areas. I just want to be able to touch to focus and the exposure not change ... Is this possible?
Thanks
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If you press and hold an area when in camera it will lock the AE/AF, the exposure and focus will now remain the same no matter where you point it. This will only work in 4.2.2 though (4.1.2 doesn't have this feature).
Ardmanz said:
If you press and hold an area when in camera it will lock the AE/AF, the exposure and focus will now remain the same no matter where you point it. This will only work in 4.2.2 though (4.1.2 doesn't have this feature).
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Thanks for the reply ... I have tried this but often I want to focus centrally and when you hold to lock it it still seems to over expose. I was hoping there was some Mod that might disable exposure unless you manually adjust it so you can touch to focus anywhere and whether it's dark or light, the exposure won't change.
AllAboutTheCore said:
Thanks for the reply ... I have tried this but often I want to focus centrally and when you hold to lock it it still seems to over expose. I was hoping there was some Mod that might disable exposure unless you manually adjust it so you can touch to focus anywhere and whether it's dark or light, the exposure won't change.
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Are you holding at a light point in the picture. If you hold at a dark point it will probably come out over exposed. If it's relatively dark I normally lock onto a street lamp or something else bright.
Ardmanz said:
Are you holding at a light point in the picture. If you hold at a dark point it will probably come out over exposed. If it's relatively dark I normally lock onto a street lamp or something else bright.
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It varies tbh, I'll have to have a play with it and give it a full test.
Hi,
I find that the camera really underperforms when inside under artificial lighting - shots seem underexposed. Does anybody know a way of quickly and easily adjusting the brightness of a photo before taking it. For example on an iphone you can touch to focus and then slide the bar to the right of the focus area to adjust brightness.
When touching to focus on the p9 a small "sun" image appears next to the focus point but this disappears almost instantly - i'm not sure if this is meant to stick around for longer so that you can adjust the brightness?
I know that you can hold to focus and then manually adjust the metering point, however this isn't ideal when trying to take a quick photo.
Thanks
You can use the little "sun" icon to adjust exposure on the fly. I've heard somewhere that in certain firmware versions the icon disappears very quickly (just like the little "iris" icon in wide-aperture mode). Maybe pretending that it were there and sliding up and down right next to the focus ring (where the "sun" icon shows up) still works even though the icon already disappeared from your screen. Apart from that, there's an exposure slider in the "Pro" mode, but that's not as convenient as the little "sun" icon.
Hi
can you help.
Since upgrading the depth in colour on the camera is very poor.
I sell vacuum cleaners mainly online and used to love how the pictures came out. Now they look very weak in colour with no depth.
I won't lie. When i first got the camera I can't remember if i made any settings changes but I have been playing around with it and can't seem to re-create it.
One thing I used to touch the screen to focus on a point and the picture used to darken slightly which looked good. Also it was a circle. Now it's a square and the picture goes lighter which I hate.
Can you guys help..?
I did try to roll back to EMU 9 through hi suite but it won't give me the option. I did enable HDB etc but it still does not give me the option. If you guys can't help with the camera settings, is there any other way to rollback..? I don't care about security etc and new features, the main use was for the pictures.
Hi,
I was wondering if you saw the option to revert to factory settings in camera when you open settings? Try doing that?
As for darkening the photo, when you touch the place you want to focus, the little sun appears on the side of the square. Try swiping up or down to lighten or darken the photo.