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How to replace Nexus Digitizier/Glass

So last week I cracked the glass on my poor Nexus. It took a horrible drop. Well I can't afford another Nexus and I can imagine having any other phone so I figured I'd repair this one. Read up alot on it and watched a video on Youtube. Ordered all the parts I needed I tackled it today.
Well I decided to do a How-To for any other Nexus owner with broken screens.
New digitizer - $40
Torx screwdriver -$5
Philips screwdriver -$5
Plastic tools - Free
Total - $50
Sure beats the $125 some online sites charge.
I would like to thank ifixit and slickromeo.
1. Gather all your tools and replacement glass (known as a digitizer).
Note: Needed tools are a Philips #00, a Torx T4, and a plastic pry tool (Mine was included with the new screen)
2. Set up a clean comfortable area to work in. You may be here for awhile and you're going to want to reduce the amount of dust that could potentially get on the new glass.
Note: I used a folded over microfiber towel to keep the area clean and also add some padding to the hard counter top to prevent even more damage while working with the phone.
3. Power phone off and remove battery cover, battery, SIM card, and Micro SD card. Set aside in a safe place.
4.Our first obstacle is going to be the antennae cover at the bottom of the phone. There are three plastic clips holding it in place (Circled in red). Use a combination of the pry tool, a guitar pick, butter knife, and any other instrument you need to shove in there. It is a pain in the ass... the video I watched online made it seem like it was going to be alot harder than it was, but if you work from left to right, or right to left, and get the outside one unclipped the other two come off pretty easy. Once you get it off set it aside with the battery cover and other things.
Note: Be careful not to break these tiny, fragile clips as they are the only things holding this cover in place.
5. Scream profanities and wipe the sweat off your brow from the previous step. I know it was frustrating and nerve racking trying not to break your precious Nexus.
6. Ok good job now to start the real deconstruction. I'm going to start with the battery tray and then move down to the antennae. There are three screws holding the tray down, but before we start on those there is this tiny ridiculous little "VOID" sticker covering up one of them. I wasn't able to remove it intake, partly because I don't really care about my warranty, but I'm sure with alot of patience and tweezers one could take it off intake and put it back. But screw that just get it off to get to the screw underneath.
7. Now two of these screws is a Torx and the third is a Philips (All in green). Remove them and put them somewhere very safe.
Note: I have four plastic cups set up to place my screws into. These are going into the first one.
8.Next you need to remove the battery tray. There are seven tabs (yellow circles) around it that you need to release using your plastic pry tool. Once those are released gently pull away form the bottom of the phone to remove the tray. Set the tray aside.
9. Now for the antennae cover. There are two more screws to remove, a Torx and a Philips (Orange circles). These screws are going in the second bowl. After the screws are out, gently lift up on the bottom of that cover and it should remove easily. Be very careful not to damage the circuit board during removal.
10. Next to come out is the logic board. there are two more very tiny screws to remove (White circles). Into the third bowl with those. Next you need to disconnect three connections (purple circles). Then carefully go around the perimeter of it with your pry tool and VERY CAREFULLY remove all the little tabs holding it in place. Then simply push up form the bottom of the logic board and slide it out. Set it somewhere very safe.
11. Now onto the actual case of the Nexus. Remove the six Philips screws, 1 at the top and 5 at the bottom . Again there are a series of little clips, five of em, around the perimeter that need to be undone and then the case very easily separates from the screen. Set the case aside.
12. Very simply pry the LCD screen away form the glass digitizer. There it is... the broken glass.
13. Now take your pry tool and from the back of the glass (not the side you would touch if you were using the phone) wedge it between the frame and the glass to separate to adhesive. Once the pry tool is in you can just slide it around the edge of the glass to separate the whole thing. TA-DA your broken glass is forever gone.
Note: The glass is broken and very sharp. Take extreme caution not to cut yourself.
14. Now we just have to put the whole thing back together. Start with the new glass/digitizer. Peel off the plastic protector to expose the adhesive and very carefully put it in place.
15. Wrap the connector that is part of the digitizer around and secure it in place with its adhesive.
16. Take the whole screen assembly and slide it back into the case. Push to secure the clips then replace the six screws that you removed.
17. Slide the logic board carefully back into place. You may have to hold down/more out of the way a few of the connectors. Take it a little at a time and see where it is getting caught up. You got this far don't lose your patience.
18. Snap the back antennae cover back in and replace its screws.
19. Slide the battery tray into place and replace its screws.
20. Snap the gray antennae cover back on.
21. Replace Micro SD card, battery, and battery cover.
22. Enjoy the beauty of your Nexus without a broken screen.
23. Place Nexus in Otterbox Defender case so this never happens again.
I have pictures that document each step but need to be approved by a moderator before it lets me post em... sorry guys

Hey, awesome job on fixing your screen. I would love to see them, my Nexus just went through the same thing 30 min ago. I had it on my lap, and upon stepping out of the car, SMACK, is all I heard. It landed face down and this is the aftermath. It's much worse than it looks in the picture.

Man, that sucks. I know that feeling.
I'll try to put the pictures up to help you out. Or at least a link to my photobucket.
Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk

thanks! I just cracked mine yesterday after the phone fell out of my pocket onto a concrete floor. Ouch. I'm giving this a whirl.

Nice, I'll keep this in mind for the day I accidentally break my n1.
I just wish we could somehow jury-rig the Incredible digitizer to our phones =/

I just recently converted to the n1, bought the phone for cheap off craigslists, but notice burn in on the screen, will changing the digitizier also fix the burn in?

Thank you so much for taking the time to do this write up. I just dropped my phone and smashed the screen on concrete 30 mins ago. All is working but the glass is cracked. I've ordered a new Digitizer/Glass from ebay for £30, I just hope it comes by tomorrow.

you can post picture after 5 posts so it should be good now you have 8 posts

I've just completed the work of replacing the broken glass.
I used your guide throughout, it's a shame you haven't been able to post the pictures as it definitely would have helped. I managed to google some dismantling pictures to help with your talk through as it was hard going some times.
Many thanks again.

Another useful tip: run an air purifier aimed at your work station to minimize the risk of getting dust in the glass.

blueboymj: Any chance you can edit your original post and add your pictures so others can use them? I searched quite a lot for a specific procedure to change the digitizer on my poor N1; This was the best, most accurate guide I found. I've done digitizers on a few iPhones (sorry for the profanity) using the ifixit guides, but alas, the ifixit guides were better for them than they are for the N1.
On a side note: The end cap that gives people so much trouble fell off of my N1 in the initial drop. I pushed it back on, and continued using the phone even though the glass was shattered. Removing it the first time was not so hard, I think it was not back on as well as it should have been. Removing it the second time (another story) was much harder. There are two little plastic "bars" on the end cap (step 4 above) that fit into small grooves on the "antenna cover". (step 7) I think the trick may be to possibly pinch the edges of the end cap, while sliding it toward the bottom of the phone. I looked at it after it was open, to see why it was so hard to remove, and realized I had been inadvertently helping it hold itself closed while trying to pry it open. Maybe one of the videos addresses this; I did not watch them.
Thank you to the OP and the responders for this post!

So where exactly did u order the new digitizier and parts from?
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App

This thread should be added to the N1 wiki. Thanks for the instructions.

DrewOntheMYT said:
I just recently converted to the n1, bought the phone for cheap off craigslists, but notice burn in on the screen, will changing the digitizier also fix the burn in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Burn in? Like shadowing on the LCD? Nope.
Thats the LCD, and is completely different than the digitizer. The digitizer is just a clear plastic/glass layer that goes OVER the lcd to detect touch.

I had the digitizer and a new case and was going to have a local phone store replace this for me. However, they just gave me some BS story about how you cannot replace the digitizer without also replacing the LCD screen, which I did not provide.
So I've been without a phone (since they have it) for no reason and have to drive out of my way to retrieve it.
Hey crappy phone store, if you're too scared to do the job just say so, don't try to make up a bunch of manure and say it can't be done.
Anyway, I just ordered the required tools that I don't have and am going to give this a whirl.
OP, if you can't post your pics, can you email them to me?

does it fix the multitouch problem?

Take Apart

Anyone know how to get the front bezel off this thing?
It's begging for a paint job.
Thx!

and perhaps a generous application of rubber cement. I had ONE creek point when i bought it - annoying but livable enough (plus the fact all the bad hours of xmas I was working I never had time to return it in the 30 day period to best buy). now almost 2 months latter theres three...
theres a teardown thread or two on here somewhere but the search button seems to be failing (or my browser....)
- Will.

It must pop off, but I don't want to be the guy to try it...

In the tear down I remember seeing roughly 10 small philips screws holding it from the inside to the metal sub structure. To tighten it you need to remove the back of the device then you will see the screws running around the perimeter. I also remember the screen is held to the bezel with a form of double faced tape.

waremaster said:
In the tear down I remember seeing roughly 10 small philips screws holding it from the inside to the metal sub structure. To tighten it you need to remove the back of the device then you will see the screws running around the perimeter. I also remember the screen is held to the bezel with a form of double faced tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its funny because the guy at Best Buy was trying to pull the back off of the one I returned... No idea why he was trying to yank the back off of it...
I guess if he had succeeded I would have seen the screws..

Funny enough the display model NookColor at my local best buy was practically falling off. When I first looked at the device I nearly did not buy one because of that but then getting one in my hands at B&N changed my mind.

The front bezel is a "tape and cover" paint job. The screen is glued to the frame pretty solid. I had mine apart to fiddle around and to get the back off for a mold. Most of the screws are Torx #5 or #6. Tape it off good and you should be ok as far as the front bezel. The rear and metal frame you can easily get to by proper disassembly.

Here's the zdnet guide,
http://www.zdnet.com/photos/nookcolor-teardown/487636?seq=21
Here's what I did.
You'll need a torx 5. After you unscrews the 2 screws by the sd slot, use your nail along the chamfer corner to lift the back siding up. Then use a credit card to lift the back up and run along the edge to unhinged the back.

techboydino, are you going to make a new front bezel? might be a small after market for such things. I'd pick up a more solid one if the price was right.
actually metal front and back pieces would rock...
- Will.

I would like to see a silicon back cover case that has a kickstand..

WillCameron said:
techboydino, are you going to make a new front bezel? might be a small after market for such things. I'd pick up a more solid one if the price was right.
actually metal front and back pieces would rock...
- Will.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was really considering metal but the fact that most would have to really take special care to actually seperate the bezel from the screen really kind of set me off that. making a case for this is rediculously hard. (compared to my attempts at other devices. if you ever seperated a screen for a cell phone from the glass then you know what I mean. I am trying to replace the back with aluminum and wanted to do a carbon fiber front. so far everything is too thick or just plain looks bad.

Ever heard of masking tape?
3M BLUE painters tape FTW

Glad to find this post!!!
This maybe a little off the subject but does any know where I can purchase a replacement faceplate frame cover.
I accidentally drop my nook color and now it has a nasty crack...
Thank you all in advance!

i took the kickstand off a picture frame...white glued it and had one. Then took it off to fit my new cover...replacement kickstand not put on yet..

nookme said:
This maybe a little off the subject but does any know where I can purchase a replacement faceplate frame cover.
I accidentally drop my nook color and now it has a nasty crack...
Thank you all in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your best bet is probably to pick up a smoked one off EBay or one with a cracked screen and a good bezel.
Actually post up WTB (want to buy) dead Nook Color in the XDA market and link to it in this thread. I seem to recall a couple readers here who have more than "gently used" Nooks....

Otterbox Defender - Defender Extreme Edition!! - Extended battery mod

So here it is! (Pics below!)
After a couple of days of refinement I am quite proud to share my Defender extended battery mod
The reasons for doing this are obvious enough I guess...I love my Defender but i also want maximum battery power! so after some time wondering if i dare do it, I went for it and I'm pleased with the results.
I decided early on, that with the Defender backing in place there is little need for another backing inside as long as the extension part is not too big the battery should be held in place quite nicely.
Firstly here is what i used for the Mod:
http://www.superetrader.co.uk/htc-hd2-extended-battery-2400mah-high-csht8585xl-p-11745.html
I used this battery, firstly cos its cheap but secondly because i think its a little thinner than the official one (could be wrong, mostly the cheap part) the battery is suprisingly good quality but the cover that came with it didnt even fit properly to start with so i didnt mind cutting it up.
A Dremel with a circular saw blade
Milliput Epoxy putty
Super Glue
Polyurathane sealant
Epoxy Rapid set glue
I wish i had taken step by step photos for you guys but I was so busy trying Not to screw up my case beyond repair i only thought of it afterwards!
Method
First of all the use the battery to mark out the hole in the back of the case,
Then using the dremel cut the hole going to the outside of the line to give about 1mm clearance all round.
The next step is to modify the cover that came with my battery , this whole process was a little fiddly and takes some careful measuring...basically it needs to fit the hole I just made; cut one end down to the same length and then put the defender backing on with the new battery installed to get the height of the of the battery that is now poking out!
So with some cutting and sanding get the cover to the right size, and glue onto the case (with the open end at the camera lens end) with the super glue.
Now on the inside is where i applied the epoxy putty, maybe its not esencial but I figured it added some strength.
You will need to cut a small additional strip for the open end ...its easier tocut a small strip slightly taller than is needed then trim it down after it has been glued into place. Fill any gaps from the inside with putty.
Carefully measure the new hump and then cut the rubber of the defender backing to fit as closly as possible around it.
Once happy with all this CHECK the back now fits on with the battery in place before going any further!
If it fits ok and your happy mix up a small amount of epoxy glue and very carefully apply to the outside; where the hump meets the back and apply a small fillet around all the edges this is gonna make the whole thing much stronger than just using superglue.
The next thing I did was to glue the offcut of rubber backing onto the new hump, I guess this is optional but i figured it would give the finished piece a more pro look
Anyway, after a couple of days I decided to use the polyurathane sealer to seal it all up round the edge and to stop the rubber peeling...
So here are the pics: again sorry i didnt take any step-by-step's, hope you like it cos I do.
The last 2 pics are the Final.

Not bad at all, I can't do that I am terrible doing stuff like that.

thats a nice guide but its too complicated

xabhi said:
thats a nice guide but its too complicated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wish it was not so complicated too, maybe I can write it better!!, it is a good way to do it if you have the know how

Really good work. I like it. But you should put your parts into dishwasher before next photoseries

[FOUND][Q] Water Damage, indicators?

Please where are water damage indicators on tab and how they suppose to look. (pics would be nice).
google din't help, and Ifixit pics din't reveal any clues.
I would like to use warranty by I have no idea if water or something else is the problem (kid was using it when it supposedly died ).
And I suspect water is/was the problem.
Thank YOU.
oh and in case of brand difference. It's AT&T tab.
update.
Water damage indicator is on the back cover of the tab close to connector. (a small square sticker (5x5mm) - its visible on ifixit last picture.
Openig was much easier than expected - with a lot of patience SAFE. (I am not responsible for damage you do ... its just description how I did open mine)
You need #0 Y screwdriver.
1 plastick knife (I sugest get something better as pry tool.)
1 old credit card (cut it in about 3-5mm stripes)
1 needle
take of screws (just remove the black stickers, sugest use needle as pry tool (don't make holes into them). (push on the crewdriver so you don't strip the head)
You don't need pry tool you need something to wedge in to make opening for the ONE creditcard stripe. Something like flat plastick screwdriver. (I modified plastick knife for that)
Dont use anything hard or round as it will make markings on the cover (like screwdriver).
Maybe even the creditcard itself can by modified to be good enought to make the space for the stripes.
now how to... pry open. (don't pry it will go on its own, nearly)
avoid pry !!! on:
TOP of the tab (not realy neded to open top)
speakers+3-4mm
mic
buttons
SIM,SD cards
!!! conection to display (chceck iFixit and youtube videos)
at bottom close to corners and screw openings you should insert stripes (avoid the speakers and add 3mm cause of insulation)
at sides... every where you can except the places I mentioned, but you MUST put someting close to corners - (all 6 places togehter (2left,2right,2bottom)
The Corners are the bigest problem so take extra care so you don't damage anything.
As Corners I mean close to the round part, but not the round part itself.
When you finish putting all the stripes everywhere possible it should be VERY easy to open ... (turn it upside down...) or gently push by connector.
After you mange to open it a bit... there is good place in the corners to pry on.
Don't pull, you will strip the holders. put credit card stripes where it still hold.
Now some more advice:
Fingerpritns are problem - so take care.
battery has two stickers holding it in place (bottom and top) and screw
I suggest after you remove the battery put on the stickers something to cover them (they atract dust,fibers) - I sugest put on them piece of the old creditcard
At some places I used more than one stripe of creditcard -but I think it was not necessary
Oh in case ... I pry between screen and plastick cover. , cause I seen someone trying opening the rear part of the cover and that is BAD IDEA.
Hope it helps someone..

There won't be any way of telling without taking to back off, and and I guess that'll void your warranty. Send it in and and and suspect its died due to water and they can check.
| Don't Revive Me Bro! |

It is not possible to open it safely? I was hoping that I can.

monoko said:
It is not possible to open it safely? I was hoping that I can.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not without voiding. You can open it, but the probably won't accept bit for repair.
I'd suggest sending it in as so so you can, explain the problem, say you think it's caused by water damage but your not sure as you didn't have it when it died.
| Don't Revive Me Bro! |

i have 1 of mine apart to replace the screen and i have found no moisture tags. on the Inside. It's a tmobile Tab. to open right requires a couple of special tools, you can get then at Ifixit.com i had to buy the Ydriver its the Y-0. and a plastic tool to remove the cover without scratching it.
hope this helps.
Karl

yes I guess that I need at least Tri-wing screwdriver size #0 or #00 not shure which.
Size y0 at ifixid was the only place where they use Y0.. every where else its #0 or #00.
Not shure which one. Web is full of Tri-wing screwdrivers for WII and DS etc but no mention of size. So I will buy both sizes. I need to be sure that it's clean from inside before I ask samsung to fixit.

The marker might be on the battery somewhere
swyped from a galaxy far far away...

it is a Y-0 not 00
just to save ya $9
Karl

I confirm #0 as the right one. #1 too big #00 looks a bit too small.

[Q] Hardware fixes - anyone tried...

I am the proud owner of a new I9000, the b*&tard love child of 2 ebay purchases. Just wondering whether the leftover entrails are worth keeping. Specifically:
- broken USB port. I have a replacement part and looks easy enough to de/solder. Anyone tried??
- vol down button. Looks a nightmare to try to replace. Anyone tried??
- chip in screen. Not worried about it being perfect but its too deep to polish out and when you put a screen protector on it a bubble appears. Any ideas?
- chrome bezel. WOWOW didn't Samsung make it a separate element easy to replace...?? Has anyone done these successfully (first time, every time), or is there any way to make it look good? Other than hiding with a case which I have already done!
Thank you for all, any, or even no help.
H.

ihartley said:
Thank you for all, any, or even no help.
H.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look at manuals and guides in My Android collections for your answers

If you're handy with a soldering iron and have a good one (not one of those fire-starting ones that plugs straight into the wall with a handle like five inches away from the tip) then the micro USB and button shouldn't be too tricky to replace. The button isn't that terribly important anyway depending on how you use your phone.
As far as the screen chip, I'd be tempted to use one of the screen protector methods using alcohol, perhaps the alcohol would fill the gap and stay there? Probably wouldn't work, but it might be worth a try.
I replaced the chrome bezel with a cheap, crappy gold one from china (and a gold battery cover) and it's totally pimp. The bezel is actually the very last piece in the phone though. You have to take EVERYTHING apart to get it out, it's a huge pain. I ended up slipping with a knife while I was doing it and cutting the vibrator off so I spent a few weeks waiting for the replacement touch button/vibrator/microphone board to come in.