Database Develop

Possible to remove/replace the tamper seal on Kaiser?

I've got a stuffed Kaiser that's draining a full battery in 4 hours flat. Tried hard reset but alas no joy
About a month after I got it (and months before this nonsense started) it did have an unfortunate meeting with some coffee - only a few drops. Wiped off within 10 seconds and followed by a quick suck of the joints to remove any that might be lurking in there.
I'm happy to send it back under warranty, of course I'd like to "check" the water tell tales on the pcb just to be sure there all a nice white colour
The tamper seal on the top antenna module looks interesting - is this just a 3mm dia sticker? I was thinking of using some 3mm OD tubing and a little hot air to soften the adhesive, then with a little vaccum pull the thing off the screw
Anyone done it and care to comment?

you shouldnt have spilt coffee on it then, you should have got the insurance for it.
I'm getting old and think if your screwing over the phone company, you don't deserve a thing.

It is what it is man...
Let's say that it looks like it has been tampered with - what are you going to do differently - and oh by the way NOW it has really been tampered with.
I would simply send it back and tell them what happened.
Most people get treated really nive by HTC and also their carrier company.
Give it a go,
Bill

flashy said:
you shouldnt have spilt coffee on it then, you should have got the insurance for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you think the insurance company could answer my question?
flashy said:
I'm getting old and think if your screwing over the phone company, you don't deserve a thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At £374.49 per MB for SMS data I think everyone here knows who's got who over a barrel - sans lube too I should think...

For those that are interested (and a-moral / fraudulent / curious / whatever ) here's how you go about it - did it tonight in 5 minutes!
1. Obtain a BIC pen (or similar) with a plastic ink tube of roughly 2.5mm dia, some masking tape and some sticker backing material - the smooth grease-like paper that stickers come on.
2. Break the pen in half to get at the ink tube, cut off the clear (ink free) part of the tube.
3. Rub the flattest end of the tube over some glass for a few seconds to ensure an even surface finish. Keep the tube perpendicular to the glass!
4. Tear off a strip of masking tape, 3cm x 3cm roughly. Place the now flattened end of the tube into the centre of the tape on the non sticky side
5. Pop the back cover off the Kaiser, remove the battery. Using a hairdrier warm the void seal for 10-20 secs
6. Introduce the tape sticky side down into the hole where the seal is, use the flattened end of the ink tube to push it down until it makes contact with the seal
7. Remove the ink tube, then gently remove the tape with even tension on all sides
The seal should be on the tape. To extract if from the sticky side of the tape use a rolling action (as if one was rolling a cigarette / joint / whatever) between your fingers making the rolls smaller and smaller until the seal is perched on top of what is a fold.
GENTLY lift off with tweezers and place on the sticker backing material
To fit:
1. Put a little blu-tac on the end of your tube - really, just a little! Just enough to fill the end of the tube with a little sticking out.
2. Put the VOID sticker on the end of the blu-tac sticky side out, void side touching the blu-tac
3. Push the tube down the screw hole
4. Remove tube

How to replace Nexus Digitizier/Glass

So last week I cracked the glass on my poor Nexus. It took a horrible drop. Well I can't afford another Nexus and I can imagine having any other phone so I figured I'd repair this one. Read up alot on it and watched a video on Youtube. Ordered all the parts I needed I tackled it today.
Well I decided to do a How-To for any other Nexus owner with broken screens.
New digitizer - $40
Torx screwdriver -$5
Philips screwdriver -$5
Plastic tools - Free
Total - $50
Sure beats the $125 some online sites charge.
I would like to thank ifixit and slickromeo.
1. Gather all your tools and replacement glass (known as a digitizer).
Note: Needed tools are a Philips #00, a Torx T4, and a plastic pry tool (Mine was included with the new screen)
2. Set up a clean comfortable area to work in. You may be here for awhile and you're going to want to reduce the amount of dust that could potentially get on the new glass.
Note: I used a folded over microfiber towel to keep the area clean and also add some padding to the hard counter top to prevent even more damage while working with the phone.
3. Power phone off and remove battery cover, battery, SIM card, and Micro SD card. Set aside in a safe place.
4.Our first obstacle is going to be the antennae cover at the bottom of the phone. There are three plastic clips holding it in place (Circled in red). Use a combination of the pry tool, a guitar pick, butter knife, and any other instrument you need to shove in there. It is a pain in the ass... the video I watched online made it seem like it was going to be alot harder than it was, but if you work from left to right, or right to left, and get the outside one unclipped the other two come off pretty easy. Once you get it off set it aside with the battery cover and other things.
Note: Be careful not to break these tiny, fragile clips as they are the only things holding this cover in place.
5. Scream profanities and wipe the sweat off your brow from the previous step. I know it was frustrating and nerve racking trying not to break your precious Nexus.
6. Ok good job now to start the real deconstruction. I'm going to start with the battery tray and then move down to the antennae. There are three screws holding the tray down, but before we start on those there is this tiny ridiculous little "VOID" sticker covering up one of them. I wasn't able to remove it intake, partly because I don't really care about my warranty, but I'm sure with alot of patience and tweezers one could take it off intake and put it back. But screw that just get it off to get to the screw underneath.
7. Now two of these screws is a Torx and the third is a Philips (All in green). Remove them and put them somewhere very safe.
Note: I have four plastic cups set up to place my screws into. These are going into the first one.
8.Next you need to remove the battery tray. There are seven tabs (yellow circles) around it that you need to release using your plastic pry tool. Once those are released gently pull away form the bottom of the phone to remove the tray. Set the tray aside.
9. Now for the antennae cover. There are two more screws to remove, a Torx and a Philips (Orange circles). These screws are going in the second bowl. After the screws are out, gently lift up on the bottom of that cover and it should remove easily. Be very careful not to damage the circuit board during removal.
10. Next to come out is the logic board. there are two more very tiny screws to remove (White circles). Into the third bowl with those. Next you need to disconnect three connections (purple circles). Then carefully go around the perimeter of it with your pry tool and VERY CAREFULLY remove all the little tabs holding it in place. Then simply push up form the bottom of the logic board and slide it out. Set it somewhere very safe.
11. Now onto the actual case of the Nexus. Remove the six Philips screws, 1 at the top and 5 at the bottom . Again there are a series of little clips, five of em, around the perimeter that need to be undone and then the case very easily separates from the screen. Set the case aside.
12. Very simply pry the LCD screen away form the glass digitizer. There it is... the broken glass.
13. Now take your pry tool and from the back of the glass (not the side you would touch if you were using the phone) wedge it between the frame and the glass to separate to adhesive. Once the pry tool is in you can just slide it around the edge of the glass to separate the whole thing. TA-DA your broken glass is forever gone.
Note: The glass is broken and very sharp. Take extreme caution not to cut yourself.
14. Now we just have to put the whole thing back together. Start with the new glass/digitizer. Peel off the plastic protector to expose the adhesive and very carefully put it in place.
15. Wrap the connector that is part of the digitizer around and secure it in place with its adhesive.
16. Take the whole screen assembly and slide it back into the case. Push to secure the clips then replace the six screws that you removed.
17. Slide the logic board carefully back into place. You may have to hold down/more out of the way a few of the connectors. Take it a little at a time and see where it is getting caught up. You got this far don't lose your patience.
18. Snap the back antennae cover back in and replace its screws.
19. Slide the battery tray into place and replace its screws.
20. Snap the gray antennae cover back on.
21. Replace Micro SD card, battery, and battery cover.
22. Enjoy the beauty of your Nexus without a broken screen.
23. Place Nexus in Otterbox Defender case so this never happens again.
I have pictures that document each step but need to be approved by a moderator before it lets me post em... sorry guys

Hey, awesome job on fixing your screen. I would love to see them, my Nexus just went through the same thing 30 min ago. I had it on my lap, and upon stepping out of the car, SMACK, is all I heard. It landed face down and this is the aftermath. It's much worse than it looks in the picture.

Man, that sucks. I know that feeling.
I'll try to put the pictures up to help you out. Or at least a link to my photobucket.
Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk

thanks! I just cracked mine yesterday after the phone fell out of my pocket onto a concrete floor. Ouch. I'm giving this a whirl.

Nice, I'll keep this in mind for the day I accidentally break my n1.
I just wish we could somehow jury-rig the Incredible digitizer to our phones =/

I just recently converted to the n1, bought the phone for cheap off craigslists, but notice burn in on the screen, will changing the digitizier also fix the burn in?

Thank you so much for taking the time to do this write up. I just dropped my phone and smashed the screen on concrete 30 mins ago. All is working but the glass is cracked. I've ordered a new Digitizer/Glass from ebay for £30, I just hope it comes by tomorrow.

you can post picture after 5 posts so it should be good now you have 8 posts

I've just completed the work of replacing the broken glass.
I used your guide throughout, it's a shame you haven't been able to post the pictures as it definitely would have helped. I managed to google some dismantling pictures to help with your talk through as it was hard going some times.
Many thanks again.

Another useful tip: run an air purifier aimed at your work station to minimize the risk of getting dust in the glass.

blueboymj: Any chance you can edit your original post and add your pictures so others can use them? I searched quite a lot for a specific procedure to change the digitizer on my poor N1; This was the best, most accurate guide I found. I've done digitizers on a few iPhones (sorry for the profanity) using the ifixit guides, but alas, the ifixit guides were better for them than they are for the N1.
On a side note: The end cap that gives people so much trouble fell off of my N1 in the initial drop. I pushed it back on, and continued using the phone even though the glass was shattered. Removing it the first time was not so hard, I think it was not back on as well as it should have been. Removing it the second time (another story) was much harder. There are two little plastic "bars" on the end cap (step 4 above) that fit into small grooves on the "antenna cover". (step 7) I think the trick may be to possibly pinch the edges of the end cap, while sliding it toward the bottom of the phone. I looked at it after it was open, to see why it was so hard to remove, and realized I had been inadvertently helping it hold itself closed while trying to pry it open. Maybe one of the videos addresses this; I did not watch them.
Thank you to the OP and the responders for this post!

So where exactly did u order the new digitizier and parts from?
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App

This thread should be added to the N1 wiki. Thanks for the instructions.

DrewOntheMYT said:
I just recently converted to the n1, bought the phone for cheap off craigslists, but notice burn in on the screen, will changing the digitizier also fix the burn in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Burn in? Like shadowing on the LCD? Nope.
Thats the LCD, and is completely different than the digitizer. The digitizer is just a clear plastic/glass layer that goes OVER the lcd to detect touch.

I had the digitizer and a new case and was going to have a local phone store replace this for me. However, they just gave me some BS story about how you cannot replace the digitizer without also replacing the LCD screen, which I did not provide.
So I've been without a phone (since they have it) for no reason and have to drive out of my way to retrieve it.
Hey crappy phone store, if you're too scared to do the job just say so, don't try to make up a bunch of manure and say it can't be done.
Anyway, I just ordered the required tools that I don't have and am going to give this a whirl.
OP, if you can't post your pics, can you email them to me?

does it fix the multitouch problem?

(GUIDE) How to change backcover on Galaxy Tab.

OK. So I bought this Galaxy Tab on a Swedish eBay site. Used.
And I got it for a steal really, but it was because it had a pretty scratched back side. Not a single scratch on the glass thou thanks to a screenprotector.
But I was browsing thru eBay and found my solution.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/11072469800...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2185wt_922
Today it arrived and I had a pretty fun time replacing it.
So I thought that I would provide a little guide as to how to replace the backcover.
I'm not going to lie, it was pretty hard to crack the damn tab open. And other problems arose too but more of that after the show.
So. First of. You do this on your own. By following this guide you are doing it by yourself. What im trying to say is that:
I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY IF YOU BREAK ANYTHING!! PERIOD!!
Tools needed:
Case opener tool x3 or 4 (they are usually blue, and you need about 3 or 4 of them, why? Because the tab is HARD!)
Sucktion cup (Makes grabbing the screen easier)
A tweezer with pointy tip.
Triwing or y screwdriver (if by any chance u don't have one, no sweat, if u have a Philips 00 cross screwdriver you can grind away one of the wings of it with like a nailfile or 4. So if it looks like + grind one of the arms of so it looks like this -| get it? It worked for me. Cheap as I am ;p )
So lets get started!
Watch YouTube video here www.youtube.com/watch?v=urGUKerJOhg one or two times to understand the opening process. If you think you have the hang of it, jump to step 5. You only need to open it. Nothing more.
Step 1: take out the micro SD card and sim card (if u have one)
Step 2: locate the 2 screws mounted on each side of the charger slot. They hare hidden under the 2 round black dots that are on each side of the charger slot. Use the tweezer to remove them. They have an adhesive on so save them for repositioning later.
Step 3: Use the triwing or y screwdriver to unscrew the 2 screws. These are the only ones you will unscrew at all. So far easy.
Step 4: Now here is the hard part. The tab is actually pretty hard to get in to. You will have to use the case opener tool and push it between the glass and plastic covering that goes around the phone. And at the same time use the suction cup to pull the screen upward while prying the corners open carfully with the case opener tool.
Now its open happy feeling. While your at it you can see the batterie and check if its from china or Taiwan. If its china, you should get a Taiwan one as the china galaxy tab batteries had a batch that was bad and had some issues with battery reporting either to high or to low percentage. Mentioned in this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=986067
Step 5: You have to remove the frame attatched to the backcover. Its easily done with care with a case opener tool. It has some adhesive but not much under so u can easily be a bit brutal to it. Besides, the backcover is the thing you want to change.
Step 6: Now that you have removed the frame you see that the new backcover doesn't have that fancy metallic covering inside, or the camera lens and led plastic. So first remove the camera lens from your old backcover to the new one, it has some adhesive on it but no hard one. Easy to remove. To the same with the led plastic.
Step 7: Now remove all the strips and other glued materials from the old cover and transfer them to the new. When that is done, press the black frame over the new cover.
BE OBSERVANT AND CAREFULL WHEN DOING THIS!!
or else you will break some of the plastic hooks that keeps the cover mounted on the frame.
Once the plastic frame and the new backcover is assembled and you feel that it looks damn good its just to close it up again... oh and put those two round black dots back over the screws when you are done.
Easy done
I must say that mine looks like a completely new tab! My wife thought I bought a new tab
Thanks for reading and if you found this usefully don't hesitate to press the "Thanks" button.
Over and out!
| MIUI Powered Galaxy Tab | Tapatalk |

good post. but i will not be trying to open mine.
but thanks for the instructions. i am pretty sure i will come in handy for the future.
cheers!!!

Yeah. Maybe I should ad that putting some degree of glue on the new case and frame would be good.
Cuz now I can open my tab by just pulling the case off ... Wich is good I guess if you want to get in there for a reason. Switching batteries?
| MIUI Powered Galaxy Tab | Tapatalk |

How did you find the quality of the replacement?

Same as original. Only difference is that it doesn't have some metallic coating that the original has. But with it gone i actually got better reception!
Other difference is that obviously it doesn't have the imei number or serial number (duuuuhh) printed on it
Still strongly recommended!
| MIUI Powered Galaxy Tab | Tapatalk |

interesting, mine has some scuffs too, and doesn't seem that hard on the process

It is a easy process and its a cheap way to make the phone look completely new
| CM7 2.3.5 Powered Galaxy Tab | Tapatalk |

Reb0rn said:
OK. So I bought this Galaxy Tab on a Swedish eBay site. Used.
And I got it for a steal really, but it was because it had a pretty scratched back side. Not a single scratch on the glass thou thanks to a screenprotector.
But I was browsing thru eBay and found my solution.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/11072469800...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2185wt_922
Today it arrived and I had a pretty fun time replacing it.
So I thought that I would provide a little guide as to how to replace the backcover.
I'm not going to lie, it was pretty hard to crack the damn tab open. And other problems arose too but more of that after the show.
So. First of. You do this on your own. By following this guide you are doing it by yourself. What im trying to say is that:
I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY IF YOU BREAK ANYTHING!! PERIOD!!
Tools needed:
Case opener tool x3 or 4 (they are usually blue, and you need about 3 or 4 of them, why? Because the tab is HARD!)
Sucktion cup (Makes grabbing the screen easier)
A tweezer with pointy tip.
Triwing or y screwdriver (if by any chance u don't have one, no sweat, if u have a Philips 00 cross screwdriver you can grind away one of the wings of it with like a nailfile or 4. So if it looks like + grind one of the arms of so it looks like this -| get it? It worked for me. Cheap as I am ;p )
So lets get started!
Watch YouTube video here www.youtube.com/watch?v=urGUKerJOhg one or two times to understand the opening process. If you think you have the hang of it, jump to step 5. You only need to open it. Nothing more.
Step 1: take out the micro SD card and sim card (if u have one)
Step 2: locate the 2 screws mounted on each side of the charger slot. They hare hidden under the 2 round black dots that are on each side of the charger slot. Use the tweezer to remove them. They have an adhesive on so save them for repositioning later.
Step 3: Use the triwing or y screwdriver to unscrew the 2 screws. These are the only ones you will unscrew at all. So far easy.
Step 4: Now here is the hard part. The tab is actually pretty hard to get in to. You will have to use the case opener tool and push it between the glass and plastic covering that goes around the phone. And at the same time use the suction cup to pull the screen upward while prying the corners open carfully with the case opener tool.
Now its open happy feeling. While your at it you can see the batterie and check if its from china or Taiwan. If its china, you should get a Taiwan one as the china galaxy tab batteries had a batch that was bad and had some issues with battery reporting either to high or to low percentage. Mentioned in this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=986067
Step 5: You have to remove the frame attatched to the backcover. Its easily done with care with a case opener tool. It has some adhesive but not much under so u can easily be a bit brutal to it. Besides, the backcover is the thing you want to change.
Step 6: Now that you have removed the frame you see that the new backcover doesn't have that fancy metallic covering inside, or the camera lens and led plastic. So first remove the camera lens from your old backcover to the new one, it has some adhesive on it but no hard one. Easy to remove. To the same with the led plastic.
Step 7: Now remove all the strips and other glued materials from the old cover and transfer them to the new. When that is done, press the black frame over the new cover.
BE OBSERVANT AND CAREFULL WHEN DOING THIS!!
or else you will break some of the plastic hooks that keeps the cover mounted on the frame.
Once the plastic frame and the new backcover is assembled and you feel that it looks damn good its just to close it up again... oh and put those two round black dots back over the screws when you are done.
Easy done
I must say that mine looks like a completely new tab! My wife thought I bought a new tab
Thanks for reading and if you found this usefully don't hesitate to press the "Thanks" button.
Over and out!
| MIUI Powered Galaxy Tab | Tapatalk |
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can anyone tell my where can i found a back cover like the one in the video?
I need not olso the white back cover, but olso the lateral cover.
plsssss answer me...

What!? You mean the black frame?
Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BACK-COVER-FACEPLATE-HOUSING-SAMSUNG-GALAXY-TAB-FIX-/350502992625
There you go. Both back cover and frame.
Next time, at least try to find it...
| MIUI Powered Galaxy Tab | Tapatalk |

Reb0rn said:
What!? You mean the black frame?
Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BACK-COVER-FACEPLATE-HOUSING-SAMSUNG-GALAXY-TAB-FIX-/350502992625
There you go. Both back cover and frame.
Next time, at least try to find it...
| MIUI Powered Galaxy Tab | Tapatalk |
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thx my friend. i Found it...i'm waiting from Hong Kong Thx a lot
Maybe you know how to replace the touchscreen? I founded a tutorial to replace but i cannot understand how to....
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Samsung-Galaxy-Tab-Teardown/4103/3
Pls help me if you can

[Guide]Taking apart the Streak 7 (wip)

Introduction:
It's been over a year since the Streak 7 has been released, long enough that Dell has stopped selling it on their website, yet noone has released a legimitate disassembly guide yet.
Around launch time there was a video made showing the device being taken apart, what makes the video completely worthless is the fact they skipped all the most important steps of actually disassembling it and fast forwards though it till when it's nearly fully taken apart.
This guide will detail out all the steps to take it apart while attempting to minimize damage to it for reassembly.
Overall difficulty: 6/10
Without a guide: 11/10
Tools required:
Hair dryer [strongly recommended]
Very small torx screwdriver
Very fine plastic shim or xacto knife
Step 1: Removing the side bumpers
The two side bumpers cover the majority of the screws. The bumpers themselves are held on by a strip of adhesive tape and are also very brittle. The most obvious method to remove them is to heat each of the bumpers with a hair dryer to weaken the adhesive on them. After heating it multiple times it should hopefully weaken enough so that a thin plastic shim or xacto knife can be forced in from the edges.
Depending on the importance of minimizing cosmetic damage, this can be the longest step.
Summerized steps:
Heat bumpers until adhesive is weakened
Shove thing instrument underneath bumpers from outside edge
Pry off bumpers lengthwise to avoid snapping them
Caution:
The area near the capacitive buttons has an exposed ribbon cable, care must be used around that as the cable can be easily sliced.
The shiny plastic bumpers are VERY brittle and can easily snap if flexed any amount. It may take many re-heatings to remove them without damage
Excessive heat applied to the screen may damage the underlying LCD, it is recommended to slowly heat the bumpers in multiple runs to reduce the chance of damage.
Step 2: Removing the screws
List of screws:
2 visible screws under left bumper
3 visible screws under right bumper
1 screw hidden underneath capacitive sensing pad
2 screws hidden underneath white pads inside side flap
The screws underneath the flap might not be possible to remove without cosmetic damage. As they are underneath the flap this may be an acceptable trade-off.
Step 3: Seperating display from body
The display try is attached to the base by plastic clips on the tray, there are 3 clips on the left side that must be detached and then the display should be able to slide slightly leftwards(?) and then opened downwards.
Caution: When detaching the display be aware of the following cables:
One above the dock connector connecting the display itself
One towards the bottom left connecting the touch sensor
One just right of the buttons connecting their sensors
Step 4: Detach display cables
The cables are standard thin ribbon cables, the main display one has a latch while the two touch ones do not(?)
Step 5: Finish detaching the display from the base
The guide will end here and not go though removing the motherboard or other components from the base tray. They are all simply held on by multiple screws.
Step 6: Reassembly
Repeat steps 1-5 in reverse order.
Food for thought:
The differences between the Wifi and 3/4g models are:
Lack of modem
Lack of PCI-E slot for modem
Lack of sim card assembly
Lack of cell modem antenna assembly
It may be possible to solder on a new PCI-E and sim card assembly to turn a Wifi into a 3/4g model. The PCI-E slot is a standardized one while the sim card bay might be custom fitted to the S7. Swapping out the modems from the EU and US submodels is as simple as removing and replacing.
Acknowledgments:
Graffixnyc for donating a device to hack at with a screwdriver disassemble
FCC.gov for stock photos of the disassembeled pieces
Dell for making the Streak 7 held together ultimately by glue.
No thanks to the other teardown video for SKIPPING half of the most important steps
Shameless self-advertising:
The guide is still somewhat incomplete as when I recieved the donor S7 it was already badly damaged, also as I was working more or less blind it took even more damage in the disassembly. If I had a 2nd one to disassemble I might be able to do it with minimum damage.

-Reserved-

WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.

Thanks theManii
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.

jydie said:
WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Everything but the modem card is soldered onto the board and the board itself has no jumpers.
crockashat said:
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went from the outside as I had a xacto knife and was afraid of scratching the screen, I was pretty agressive with it since it was already scratched up. If you dont go very slowly you might end up discoluring the black plastic (though it's black on black and not hugely noticible)
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals

Originally Posted by TheManii>
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals
Thanks for the information, I will be attempting some surgery of the DS7 in the near future.
when I tried to open the links, they come up as:
You are not authorized to access this page.
not a big deal, I am mechanically inclined so I can figure out most things without too much destruction

Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages

Rewrote the guide, it's nearly complete except the lack of pictures highlighting the various things. Placeholders have already been placed summerizing what they will be of

best diagrams/pics on the 3G/4G linked page
TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These links did work.
Actually both the internal and external photo PDFs have some useful information, and it appears that the more detailed information is in the link for the 3G/4G model.
Thanks again The Manii, appreciate all the helpful information, ROMs, etc.

TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The FCC links work now! Thank you so much for fixing them. Those internal photos are very nice... still I would love to see one in person. I just love taking things apart to see whats inside... but I normally wait until they are dead or defective.
Looks like they use SanDisk for the internal storage... and it is indeed soldered to the board. So, I am not sure what they are doing when they "fix" Streak 7s stuck in read-only mode. Maybe they have to manually short out or complete a connection on the motherboard while re-flashing the internal storage?? Or... with the right equipment, could they actually remove the old flash drive and solder on a new one?
By the way, I like the redesigned layout for your guide. Thank you so, so much for taking the time to describe this process. I greatly appreciate it.

Did you happen to take a close look at the camera to see a S/N or make/model?

I havnt looked at any of the part numbers, I'll make a list when I make the photos to finish the guide

Unfortunately looking at the internal photos again, it looks like virtually all the major chips are underneath the two RF shields or have their own RF shield.
Pretty much the only visible chips are the touchscreen controller, possibly the sim card interface chip and one of the lcd driver chips.
I'm not willing to cut/remove the RF shields as they seem pretty secure, so I'm not gonna be able to pull part numbers off them.
What I'm left with now is a device with:
Demolished dock connector
Cut Capacitive button cable
Missing Flap
Extensive cosmetic damage
Only the cut cable was during the dissassembly though, rest was as-is.
I'm gonna take the final disassembly photos tomorrow then put the whole thing in storage.

hmmm...
I wonder if you would be interested in selling that poor streak for parts
I just bought a unit with a cracked digitizer...

finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.

TheManii said:
finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the glass and screen one piece or will the gorilla glass come apart? I cracked the glass today and the screen itself isn't damaged at all. The unit works perfectly but has cracks on the glass.
Have you heard about sources for parts?
thanks in advance,
DC

The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.

can you see a maker/model of the lcd? also the battery.

TheManii said:
The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the guide, I'll use it when I find the glass to replace.

this is awesome.
been looking for such a guide since long time.
thanks!

[Q] Scratched screen- How do I replace it?

The screen on my Rogers HTC Raider is scratched. It is deep enough that I cannot remove by applying polisher. Screen still works but I rather replace the screen as the scratch is visible.
Where can I purchase the screen and replace it myself?

http://www.tmart.com/Replacement-LCD-Display-Screen-for-HTC-G19-Raider-4G_p137438.html
http://www.repairsuniverse.com/htc-vivid-screen-replacements-repair-parts.html

..
Thank you.

tap the thanks button
and good luck

A little advice - I've already replaced the screen on my Raider
Hi, glad someone else is attempting this. I had never replaced a screen in a phone before trying this so for me it was a little hair raising the first time I took it apart. On the back of the phone under the battery cover are 5 screws you need to remove, and one little plastic cover. Under the cover is the connector from the mainboard. Its just a little pop out connection, gently lever it loose before removing the shell to avoid hurting the ribbon.
Once you get this far, flip the phone face-up, and *from the bottom*, gently lever the sides and bottom of the plastic shell away from the screen. Its relatively easy.
Continue working along the edges toward the top until the plastic shell pops free, after that put it face-down again and remove the screws holding the battery holder to the rest of the phone. Pull it up and out to the left to remove it, being careful not to bend the battery contacts as they stay with the rest of the phone. Keep the screws with it, trust me - its easier to remember what goes where this way.
Once you have the battery holder off, put it aside and remove the screws holding the mainboard(s) to the shell. Also you will find three wires with little cup contacts at the ends, gently detach these as well, and when the screws and wires are off, carefully remove the boards. Look closely at the plastic tabs holding them in and you'll see how they come out. When taking them out of the phone you'll need to lift them like you were opening a book - ie. folding them to the right. Underneath are two sockets with ribbon cable connections, one should already be detached - the other can be popped off at this point. If you skipped detaching it at the beginning, now's the time to remove both.
This should leave you with two free boards attached in the middle by a black ribbon. Put them aside and what you have left in your hand is the metal shell, LCD, and digitizer.
NOW..the crappy news. This wonderful, beautiful, powerful, ESPENSIVE phone, is held together by black double-sided tape. Yep. Tape. AND you'll need some more before installing the new digitizer. I ordered mine from tmart as well and it not only comes with the wrong screwdrivers (btw you need a #1 philips bit - VERY tiny!!) but it doesn't come with any adhesive to mount the screen to.
Your new screen should also come with some prying tools, and they are quite handy. The guitar pick one didn't do much but the lever is very handy. You'll need to gently pry the digitizer away from the LCD with this tool being careful not to put too much pressure on the lcd or it might snap. Its only a few mm thick. GO SLOW.. you should have no problems. I've done it a few times now - I'm kinda rough on my toys.
Once you have the part un-taped, its still got the ribbon cable going back behind the lcd. Its connected to a small, thin socket on ther board. You lift a small white lever (remove the tape and save it - reapply it to the new connection) and slide the cable out. You'll need to use your lever again and pry up the lcd enough to slide the ribbon out from behind it. This can be tricky. Again, go slow, be real cautious..the tape is pretty strong. Once you have the panel out completely its just a matter of reversing the process. If you're real careful when removing the original panel, you might be able to reuse the double-sided tape thats in there.. I wasn't so lucky. Mine was covered in glass shards, as I mashed my screen pretty good.
Hope this helps!! I had a rough time the first time, but now its easy for me. I like taking it apart lol..
Let me know how you do! Good luck!
Brian