Hi,
I have bought an usb cable on the market and i found it very slow to charge the phone compared to the lg cable. I found out that maybe it was because some usb output 1A, some 500ma, some 200ma.
Each time I ask a seller how much intensity the usb output, they don't know. How I am supposed to know this if I don't have a multimeter? (and a computer + 2 filaments each time I am in the market)
Thank you.
It depends on the charger, not the cable. Computer usb output is always 500ma
Sent from my LG-P990 using XDA App
Unless you have a new motherboard with a dedicated charging port, the max you can get over USB is 500mA.
Well well, this night I checked again if I was wrong and no.
Indeed, I charged my phone which was at 2%. It raised to around 70% in 7 hours! I used a market usb charger, in my pc usb port. And the phone was off (android not started).
Now, if I use my LG stock usb in the same usb port, I can charge at least 30% in 1~2 hours, phone with android started.
Moreover, I googled and found out that if you hacked you usb cable, something with the data pin thing, you can have an 1A current. So the 500mA is a specification limit, but in practice you can have more I think.
Or... maybe my phone displayed a wrong battery status? How can I know if I buy a cable, that it charges fast?
NONONONONONO!!!!
Do not try and draw more than 500mA from your USB port, this is a terrible idea, stop now.
I am not wanting to draw more than 500 mA, thank you for that. I know that it may break my usb card or something like that. No I just want to get an usb that charges my phone in one night. I have one cable that does that, one that doesn't. It means either:
case A:
Lg usb cable = 500 mA
cheap usb cable = 200mA
case B:
Lg usb cable = 1A
cheap usb cable = 500mA
case C:
my computer likes the Lg usb and gives it more current.
Yes, but turning your cable into a charge only cable (shorting the data pins) will make the phone think it's on AC when it's plugged into a USB port and try to draw 1A.
Well it is possible that you got lousy quality cable, meaning it has high resistance (bad copper quality, maybe it even isn't copper, who knows) and/or very thin wires inside, which makes it hard to transfer high current. Although 0,5 A is not really "high". This needs some measuring, but if you don't have multimeter and some practice with that, you're better of with new cable
I can recommend this one, charging with it right now: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/designer-s-micro-usb-data-cable-for-htc-g7-120cm-length-48714 - there are cheaper ones but wouldn't recommend. While you're at it, DX has some micro HDMI cables too
Out of curiosity, if your main concern is to charge your phone in 1 night then why not....
A. Use the supplied cable with your computer.
Or....
B. Use the supplied AC adapter.
Now for your question:
In my experience cheap cables typically don't work as well for either charging or data throughput as their higher quality counterparts. I have cut a few of them for various projects and cheap cables usually have cheap, high gauge wire (higher gauge wire means smaller diameter for anyone not familiar with the AWG standard.) The smaller diameter translates into higher resistance and ultimately lower current through the cable. That is probably why your phone charges slowly on the cheap cable.
As others have said its not recommended to modify the cable to draw more current. Best case it could cause something to stop working like the port on your computer or phone or the cable its self. Worst case it could cause an electrical fire.
If you want to test my hypothesis as well as another cable before you buy it then get a multimeter and test the resistance. I never cared enough to test my theory so it isn't confirmed, just a very probable theory (this is the same reason why really cheap jumper cables take a long time to jump start your car when higher quality ones generally let you start the car right away.) I would test for you on some usb cables I have laying around but my multimeter is burried somewhere in a box at the moment from when I moved.
Sent from my V6 Supercharged GSB Eris
Dac0908 said:
Well it is possible that you got lousy quality cable, meaning it has high resistance (bad copper quality, maybe it even isn't copper, who knows) and/or very thin wires inside, which makes it hard to transfer high current. Although 0,5 A is not really "high". This needs some measuring, but if you don't have multimeter and some practice with that, you're better of with new cable
I can recommend this one, charging with it right now: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/designer-s-micro-usb-data-cable-for-htc-g7-120cm-length-48714 - there are cheaper ones but wouldn't recommend. While you're at it, DX has some micro HDMI cables too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol you posted this as I was typing my reply.
At the end of the day a high quality USB cable is not much more expensive than a low quality one. Its usually best to spend a little more for one that works as it should.
Edit* I looked back at the time stamp and I guess I just overlooked your post.
Sent from my V6 Supercharged GSB Eris
In DX case, there is 1$ difference between cheaper and ok quality cable. Not really worth to even think about it . I've got 2 of those, very satisfied.
Yesterday I forgot to charge my LG, it was completely empty and turned off when I woke up. Plugged in to PC via USB extender cable and it was charged to 50% in 3 hours while turned on, did some surfing, emails 'n stuff.
ergosum said:
Well well, this night I checked again if I was wrong and no.
Indeed, I charged my phone which was at 2%. It raised to around 70% in 7 hours! I used a market usb charger, in my pc usb port. And the phone was off (android not started).
Now, if I use my LG stock usb in the same usb port, I can charge at least 30% in 1~2 hours, phone with android started.
Moreover, I googled and found out that if you hacked you usb cable, something with the data pin thing, you can have an 1A current. So the 500mA is a specification limit, but in practice you can have more I think.
Or... maybe my phone displayed a wrong battery status? How can I know if I buy a cable, that it charges fast?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a telling that says: "You get what you pay for"
The only reasons I can think of is that ether the cables contacts are broke, its poorly soldiered, and or they have used a extremely cheap metal inside it to make it cheaper. As most should have learned in school all electricity goes by V=R*I (almost all). By looking on that we easily see that the only possible way for it to be as you describe it is that the other cable have a lot more of resistance that "eats" up the electrical current.
Conclusion: Don't buy the cheapest crap you find you'll end up regretting it any way.
Related
Hi,
I just stuck here, cause I found a thread about fast usb charging. But there is no answers or solutions.
I have many htc devices. It seems that some of them has a problem with 3rd party usb chargers.
My most used device is Universal. It suck a lot of power. THis one doesn't enable usb charging at all, until you put it in sleep mode before pluging the charger.
Anyway, the same issue for Kaiser too.
The problem is, that it doesn't matter how much current is the charger able to deliver. They just use some kind of recognition of original chargers.
What I already measured: Original charger and universal running => takes 1200mA. 3rd party charger or my 5A PSU => Universal/Kaiser sucks just 500mA.
This is fast/slow charge. I found here discussion about 4 and 5 pins shorted??
But WTF which 4 & 5 pin?
http://www.tracyandmatt.co.uk/blogs/index.php/2006/09/10/htc_hermes_usb_connector_pin_config
According to this pinout. It would be 2 GND of Audio side? I'm not sure that original charger use extUSB audio side to charge...? It also could be D & A pins, but I'm afraid to connect 5V to Data- pin.
Anyway, someone here have to know it.
If not, in a few days I'll try all possible combinations and post the results.
Thanks
Shef
I'd also be interested to know about this. When I charge my TYTN II via USB, it takes much longer to charge than if I charge it via the mains charger (I prefer USB since I travel a lot and it's one less charger I need to carry around).
Better still, is it possible to buy a USB cable that will charge at the same rate as the mains charger rather than messing with a USB cable with the associated risks?
Best,
Gary.
Shef said:
Hi,
What I already measured: Original charger and universal running => takes 1200mA. 3rd party charger or my 5A PSU => Universal/Kaiser sucks just 500mA.
This is fast/slow charge. I found here discussion about 4 and 5 pins shorted??
But WTF which 4 & 5 pin?
http://www.tracyandmatt.co.uk/blogs/index.php/2006/09/10/htc_hermes_usb_connector_pin_config
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a usb port only supplies 500ma, while the wall charger does 1200ma as the OP has measured (although it says 1A at the back of the charger). changing a cable is not gonna superpower up your usb port.
unless maybe you get hold of a forked USB cable, like the one that Seagate Free Agent drives come supplied with... you know, 1 mini USB splitting halfway down to two normal USB plugs.
Worth experimenting with, do you think?
wyrm said:
unless maybe you get hold of a forked USB cable, like the one that Seagate Free Agent drives come supplied with... you know, 1 mini USB splitting halfway down to two normal USB plugs.
Worth experimenting with, do you think?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
good call.......with a little googling i came up with this
http://www.universaluk.com/acatalog...2_x_Type_A_to_mini_B__USB_2_0__1m__Lindy.html
tried ebay, my brief search came up with lots of unrelated results, so i gave up
I got one of those leads, came with my portable 2.5" hard drive. Just tried the lead on my Tytn 2 and it does charge almost as fast as the mains plug
Success
Ok, so, I tried to experiment.
Here you go.
Usb simple cable 480ma charge.
The same result with Motorola charger.
Motorola charger pins A and B short circuit - 890mA.
That's much better, althrough I suppose it can suck more current then 890mA, but it's significantly better.
THere is also pins data+ and data- short circuited (I don't know if it has effect, but I can't disconnect it in this connector).
Apparently NC (not connected) pin on our pinout schematics definitely is connected.
With % of charged battery it suck less and less current....I suppose it's usual, this should be even driven by ROM.
So, update your cables
It works even with car charger, so no more charger problems...
Shef
Just to be clear - you took a Motorola USB cable and shorted pins A and B (which are which by the way?) and it provides a decent current....
How do you short the pins? I've looked in the end of cable and I can hardly see the pins, let alone short them! What's the trick here or have I missed something?
Thanks,
Gary.
Shef said:
Ok, so, I tried to experiment.
Here you go.
Usb simple cable 480ma charge.
The same result with Motorola charger.
Motorola charger pins A and B short circuit - 890mA.
That's much better, althrough I suppose it can suck more current then 890mA, but it's significantly better.
THere is also pins data+ and data- short circuited (I don't know if it has effect, but I can't disconnect it in this connector).
Apparently NC (not connected) pin on our pinout schematics definitely is connected.
With % of charged battery it suck less and less current....I suppose it's usual, this should be even driven by ROM.
So, update your cables
It works even with car charger, so no more charger problems...
Shef
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also interested in how to short the pins. I use Navizon, bluetooth HSDPA tethering, and iGuidance while on the ambulance and even my iGo 3A max rated charger can barely keep up because the tilt wont accept all of the available current.
So have anyone found a way to fast charge our ppc through usb??
Yes, that is correct. Short pins 4 & 5 (4 is normally NC) to enable fast-charging. If you do it correctly, the phone shouldn't pick up tethering, and therefore should not say "PC Connected" or the like..
The TracyAndMatt pinout is wrongly numbered. The pin assignments are correct, but the number/letter scheme they used is incorrect. True ExtUSB pinout translation to their pinout is as follows:
T & M Real ExtUSB
-------------------------------
Pins E D C B A = 1 2 3 4 5
Pins 1 2 3 4 5 6 = 6 7 8 9 10 11
The way I remember is that the corner opposite the angled one is where pin 1 starts (where E is on the T&M pinout) - and they go like most IEC-standard connectors, in a clock-like circular numbering scheme.
Here's a better pinout: http://pinouts.ru/PDA/htc_extUSB_pinout.shtml
Hope this helps!
--W5i2
its the milliamps that is the problem even doubling up with a y splitter does not do much Find a charger with the most milliamps for a faster charge 1.2 amps works best and as far as i know no usb port puts out that much even if they are wired in a series. Many try to sell lower amp chargers they dont even know about it at att. if the screen is off they will charge but not well these phones are energy hogs. I must have at least twenty chargers and messed around with them... the original or one of highest amperage works for me.
Check winhlp.com/node/855 for the answer.
htc_battery_trout.c said:
/* A9 reports USB charging when helf AC cable in and China AC charger. */
/* Work arround: notify userspace AC charging first,
and notify USB charging again when receiving usb connected notificaiton from usb driver. *
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find this annoying. I can't tell if my wall charger is fast charging or not because the G1 always says "AC"
hgmichna said:
Check winhlp.com/node/855 for the answer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is not going to help HTC owners.
HTC charging cable
kiss_se said:
That is not going to help HTC owners.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://winhlp.com/node/855 was explicitly written for HTC smartphone owners.
hgmichna said:
[...] was explicitly written for HTC smartphone owners.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I meant to say: That is not going to help extusb owners.
hgmichna said:
Check winhlp.com/node/855 for the answer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it possible to get one of the 'fast charge' enabled USB cables on eBay or elsewhere? I am not keen on doing the mod described.
What is the maximum mAh recommended for HTC devices? Is it still 1.2 A or more?
zurpher said:
Is it possible to get one of the 'fast charge' enabled USB cables on eBay or elsewhere? I am not keen on doing the mod described.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check http://winhlp.com/node/855#qaes for the only buyable solution I know, besides compatible chargers. Your best bet is probably the original HTC charger, available for roughly $10.
zurpher said:
What is the maximum mAh recommended for HTC devices? Is it still 1.2 A or more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There can be no recommended maximum mAh. There can only be a required current, which differs from device to device. Check Ohm's Law. The device determines how much current it draws. If the charger cannot deliver that current, then the charging process can fail in various ways, all undesirable.
hgmichna said:
Check http://winhlp.com/node/855#qaes for the only buyable solution I know, besides compatible chargers. Your best bet is probably the original HTC charger, available for roughly $10.
There can be no recommended maximum mAh. There can only be a required current, which differs from device to device. Check Ohm's Law. The device determines how much current it draws. If the charger cannot deliver that current, then the charging process can fail in various ways, all undesirable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could the USB Switching 2A Power Charger Adapter Convertor Plug be similar in function to the one that you've linked?
zurpher said:
Could the USB Switching 2A Power Charger Adapter Convertor Plug be similar in function to the one that you've linked?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know, but probably not. Apple used to use a different signalling scheme involving resistors.
I haven't seen a thread that addresses this specifically:
After reading the threads in this section, it seems that the consensus is that the "fast charging" aspect of the NC is based on extra pins in the special NC cable. When connected to any charger with 1.9amps or greater, you will get the fast charge.
My experience is different.
Using the OEM NC cable:
1. Connected to OEM charger, stock ROM - settings say charging, flashes an icon with charging percent on connection and removal
2. Connected to OEM charger, CM7 - settings say Charging (AC).
3. Connected to 2.1 and 2.0 amp chargers, stock - settings say Not Charging.
4. Connected to 2.1 and 2.0 amp chargers, CM7 - settings say Charging (USB)
Using the generic microusb cables (2 or 3 tried):
1. Connected to OEM charger, stock ROM - Can't remember, but not going back to stock!
2. Connected to OEM charger, CM7 - settings say Charging (AC).
3. Connected to 2.1 and 2.0 amp chargers, stock - settings say Not Charging.
4. Connected to 2.1 and 2.0 amp chargers, CM7 - settings say Charging (USB)
This seems to imply that the OEM charger is required to really use the extra pins in the NC OEM cable. Can anyone test and confirm this?
Alan
The nook charger puts out almost 2A of power, where normal usb chargers and ports on computer only put out 500mA. The cable that the nook comes with has some terminations in it that allow the nook to tell when it is connected to the nook charger. It will charge at a much faster rate when using the combination of the charger and cable that came with the nook. Replace either the cable or the charger with anything else and you get low power charging mode which is very slow.
Nook Charger
I keep seeing reports of people getting a fast charge using various other equipment, as long as the chargers are rated >= 1.9A.
Can anyone confirm or deny this? Any testing?
As long as a charger puts out near 2A of current, it should work. The charger itself is just a four pin USB charger. The cable itself... lots of pins in the connector to the NC.
FrayAdjacent said:
As long as a charger puts out near 2A of current, it should work. The charger itself is just a four pin USB charger. The cable itself... lots of pins in the connector to the NC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what everyone's been saying, but it doesn't work that way in my testing. I have tried 3rd party chargers that output 2.0 and 2.1A, using the OEM cable. None of them are recognized as an AC charger. If we knew how the NC knows when it's connected to the original charger, we could find a way to modify something available at WalMart to quick charge our NC's. There's plenty of Ipad chargers (2.1A) available. The one I have doesn't work, though.
Alan
Update to my previous post:
When I got home from work I tested my ipad charger (2.1A) with the nook color cable and it seemed to act like the nook charger. I did not think any charger but the nc one would work, but it seems it does.
I am jealous. My Ipad charger (OEM) paired with the nook cable shows Charging (USB) under Settings --->About Tablet--->Status. I would love know how to get it to say Charging (AC) .
Alan
Keep your eyes open people...as soon as I return to work and have extra cash I plan on ordering and tearing down a charger and cable. Many have noticed poor quality in the chargers..I'm gonna try to engineer an open DIY charger and cable replacement with better filtering components. Hopefully will be creating a thread with full details in 3 weeks...
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
deadbot1 said:
Keep your eyes open people...as soon as I return to work and have extra cash I plan on ordering and tearing down a charger and cable. Many have noticed poor quality in the chargers..I'm gonna try to engineer an open DIY charger and cable replacement with better filtering components. Hopefully will be creating a thread with full details in 3 weeks...
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YAY! I have my soldering station warming up.
Cheers,
kev
yep, this is overdue...plugged in last night...almost burned my hand after an hour of charging. I keep my charger by the bed and the hum is just annoying when I'm feeling a bit restless.
Is there a way to identify problem chargers?
There must be some real inconsistency in the charger build quality. I've never noticed mine gets more than just a tiny bit warm and no humming. I wonder if there was a bad lot of them made? I was trying to look at the charger to see if there is a lot # or such, but can't tell what half the darned thing says. I'm posting a pic of the text on my charger in the hopes we can figure out if there is some way to identify problem chargers.
Edit: My nc came from WalMart.
Well there is a difference in the markings at least...The area circled in red...On mine it is R1101.
Still made in China
Edit: BTW my unit came from Walmart. Not sure if there would be any accounting for things like that.
deadbot1 said:
Keep your eyes open people...as soon as I return to work and have extra cash I plan on ordering and tearing down a charger and cable. Many have noticed poor quality in the chargers..I'm gonna try to engineer an open DIY charger and cable replacement with better filtering components. Hopefully will be creating a thread with full details in 3 weeks...
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds great. The simple tests I have done have yielded more quetions then answers.
Looking forward to your data.
ive noticed i cant transfer data on anything other than the nook cable.
The NC cable is special. It wont fit other devices.
described over here....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nook_Color
Charging the NC on a regular microUSB means much longer time.
swaaye said:
The NC cable is special. It wont fit other devices.
described over here....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nook_Color
Charging the NC on a regular microUSB means much longer time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, this much is well known...my plan is to find out if there are "brains" in the charger or if it's just a high amp USB adapter. If the latter is true( which I suspect), then it's easy peasy to make a high power port( or just buy a quality one). If it has special circuitry...then I get to try and replicate it( with better parts) and release the plans so others can make DIY replacements.
Edit: I'm willing to bet that the extra pins in the cable are just to increase contact surface...to handle the higher amperage.
Sent from my NookColor using XDA Premium App
boogerboy72 said:
ive noticed i cant transfer data on anything other than the nook cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is totally wrong, since other cables WILL transfer data just fine. I use an LG Micro USB cable from my old dare, and am able to ADB push, install, etc just fine.
As it is, the large end of the Nook's USB cable is normal; this means that if the nook is communicating, it is doing so over the standard USB data ports, and not through some special connection. Keep in mind that some of the extra pins from the micro side are for the status light that is built in.
Hmm R1102 here showing 1.9A output
I'm curious.. some people have talked about warranty replacements. What R versions are those?
Divine_Madcat said:
That is totally wrong, since other cables WILL transfer data just fine. I use an LG Micro USB cable from my old dare, and am able to ADB push, install, etc just fine.
As it is, the large end of the Nook's USB cable is normal; this means that if the nook is communicating, it is doing so over the standard USB data ports, and not through some special connection. Keep in mind that some of the extra pins from the micro side are for the status light that is built in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm....hadn't thought of that...that charger almost has to be dumb...just higher output...the smarts all have to be in the USB/power management chip in the nook. Those extra pins must be for the led and maybe a few for handling the higher amperage. Need to check out the spec sheet for that chip again...
Sent from my NookColor using XDA Premium App
Why does it HAVE to be dumb? I mean, the charger needs to do nothing more than respond to a ping, saying "Hey, im a Nook charger, take me for a 1.9A ride!". I guess that makes it dumb, but no reason said technology won't be in the charger.
I bought a couple of these several months ago from DealExtreme.com to use for other USB powered devices.
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/usb-re...emergency-power-with-cell-phones-holder-44749
For kicks and giggles, I was curious how much current the things really put out. I connected to my CM7 NC with the NC USB cable and did a dmesg | grep CHARGER
To my surprise, even though DealExtreme claims that these output 1A, the NC said it was receiving 2A! (see attached photo of screen).
When I used a standard Micro-USB cable, the current dropped down to 500mA.
I haven't yet done any sort of extensive testing to see what kind of life I get out of these. If the other specs are correct (a little dubious now), then having 2 of these, fully charged, would be like having an extra internal battery. Not bad for less than $13 ea.
Anyone know how accurate (or inaccurate) the output from the dmesg command is? Is the Nook misrepresenting what it says it's getting from the charger?
I suspect that what you're seeing on the screenshot is not the charging current but that it recognizes the plug type (B&N 2amp) or standard USB (500ma) that is actually plugged in. Nevertheless it still could be a handy gizmo to have around.
___________________
- Derek
derekr said:
I suspect that what you're seeing on the screenshot is not the charging current but that it recognizes the plug type (B&N 2amp) or standard USB (500ma) that is actually plugged in. Nevertheless it still could be a handy gizmo to have around.
___________________
- Derek
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I used a different model of External USB battery with the same B&N NC cable, it registered as 500mA, exactly as that particular model is rated. Though your thought is justifiably skeptical (and I'm an unrepentant skeptic myself), further evidence suggests there's more going on than just detecting the additonal pins in the B&N NC cable.
Jgrimoldy said:
When I used a different model of External USB battery with the same B&N NC cable, it registered as 500mA, exactly as that particular model is rated. Though your thought is justifiably skeptical (and I'm an unrepentant skeptic myself), further evidence suggests there's more going on than just detecting the additonal pins in the B&N NC cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe the standard microUSB cord has a resistor, or circuitry to limit the amperage to .5. The Nook Color has a charging cable with a higher amperage at 1.9, with a special connection so you cannot put it into another device and fry it. Most modern device have a way of limiting the input internally, but the the Nook's cable is unique on the device end to be safe.
If you would like to test this use a standard microUSB and plug it into the Nooks OME wall transformer and measure the amperage. in my tests it always comes out at .5 amps even though the output of the NC's transformer is 1.9 amps.
I use my muti-tester to avoid erroneous software data.
Certaily would like to test this portable charger you mention in your post, for $13 sounds good to me. This would be handy while I am away from wifi and I tether my Android phone to my Nook, the phone could be plugged into this charger, tethering can really burn battery down fast.
Thanks for the tip!
12paq said:
Certaily like to test this portable charger in you mention in your post, for $13 sounds good to me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going to order that aswell. Has anyone seen other nice accessoires for the Nook color on Dealextreme? Search only gave me a black pouch
tomic22 said:
I'm going to order that aswell. Has anyone seen other nice accessoires for the Nook color on Dealextreme? Search only gave me a black pouch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so funny, me too.
Also "CrazyinDigital" from Amazon Canada, even shipped to USA I got a nice Pleather case and a bunch of cables and the silicon cases are decent too. The bulid qualty of the cords is sketchy and the screen protectors don't fit, but I got all the above for $5.19 shipped to the US. I'd pay at least that for the USB cord. (Funny thing the cords say "for Kindle"... gotta laugh.
Back on topic, I might buy this back up charger, sounds good for my battery sucking Android Phone too..
12paq said:
I believe the standard microUSB cord has a resistor, or circuitry to limit the amperage to .5. .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Given that the USB battery charging specs give up to 1.8A, that doesn't make a whole lot of sense....
In Battery Charging Specification,[40] new powering modes are added to the USB specification. A host or hub Charging Downstream Port can supply a maximum of 1.5 A when communicating at low-bandwidth or full-bandwidth, a maximum of 900 mA when communicating at high-bandwidth, and as much current as the connector will safely handle when no communication is taking place; USB 2.0 standard-A connectors are rated at 1500 mA by default. A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8 A of current at 5.25 V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8 A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200 Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
Divine_Madcat said:
Given that the USB battery charging specs give up to 1.8A, that doesn't make a whole lot of sense....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I might have .5 volts mixed up with amps.. I posted that late last night, dozing off.. lol. sorry for the any inaccuracies.
I did these tests a while back and should have recorded the data and not left them too memory.. and age.. lol.
I initiated theses tests becouse I found it took much longer to charge the Nook with a generic cord even if I plugged it in the Nooks wall transformer that has a higher output. it could just be my cords too.
My apologies if my careless quoting of data led anyone astray. Funny, I am usually a stickler about accurate data. ..
Lesson: Never quote data from memory late and after a glass of wine..
Thanks Madcat
12paq said:
I believe the standard microUSB cord has a resistor, or circuitry to limit the amperage to .5.
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.... wat
12paq said:
If you would like to test this use a standard microUSB and plug it into the Nooks OME wall transformer and measure the amperage. in my tests it always comes out at .5 amps even though the output of the NC's transformer is 1.9 amps.
I use my muti-tester to avoid erroneous software data.
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You should have plugged into your fingers. Stop making up nonsense.
Standard microUSB is, well, a standard. And that standard says 500mAh max current. The Nook Color cable is non standard and has 4 extra pins. These extra pins, as well as shorted data pins, tells the Nook Color it can draw 1.9Amps.
I've managed to find some chargers (both car and wall) that will charge with 1800mA (according to Galaxy Charging Lite app).
I have not managed to find an aftermarket cable that will charge at more than 1amp. Anyone know of an aftermarket cable that actually is capable of 1800mA? I've tried nGear and monoprice, and while they are very well constructed cables, they will only charge at 1amp or less with the n7100
Thanks for the help in advance, but please only respond to this if you've actually tested the cable with with the Galaxy Charging app or a current meter of some sort. I'm not interested in cables that only work anecdotally.
-PW
I'm breaking your rules (gasp) but as far as I'm aware, it's not the cable that manages the charge, it's the power adapter that feeds the usb, right? I've used all sorts of random cables on my travels for work, but always sticking to my 2+ amp output charger, and they've always worked.
pacificwing said:
I've managed to find some chargers (both car and wall) that will charge with 1800mA (according to Galaxy Charging Lite app).
I have not managed to find an aftermarket cable that will charge at more than 1amp. Anyone know of an aftermarket cable that actually is capable of 1800mA? I've tried nGear and monoprice, and while they are very well constructed cables, they will only charge at 1amp or less with the n7100
Thanks for the help in advance, but please only respond to this if you've actually tested the cable with with the Galaxy Charging app or a current meter of some sort. I'm not interested in cables that only work anecdotally.
-PW
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Find a very short cable and you'll see rates up to 2100 ma (as measure by battery monitor widget). I use the short usb cable that came with my jambox combined with the the phones stock charger. The charger gets so hot due to the high current that I worry if it might burn out. The cable is very short, like 6 inches. I use this one when i need a quick bump before going out.
At this low of voltage plus high current, the shielding on most cables is not enough to protect against the voltage fluctuations caused by the high magnetic field. The longer the cable the more shielding is needed. Additionally, the cable shielding gets less effective as the cable gets older due to general wear. My original usb cable can only due around 740 - 1250ma, where it used to do 1800ma when new nearly 2 years ago.
If you could find a cable where there the positive and negative wires are separated in parallel strands like traditional AC power cords, it would also help. I have a cheap charger with built in cord like this and it charges consistently fast.
Jarm3r said:
I'm breaking your rules (gasp) but as far as I'm aware, it's not the cable that manages the charge, it's the power adapter that feeds the usb, right? I've used all sorts of random cables on my travels for work, but always sticking to my 2+ amp output charger, and they've always worked.
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Most USB cables will work with the charger, but some cables (usually longer or smaller gauge wires) will restrict the charge to a lower amperage. I still haven't quite figured out how the phone knows what cable is being used, because, realistically, in a simple DC circuit, the consequence of using a cable that is too small is heating up or burning out. A cable that is too small alone will not prevent too much amperage from going through itself. This is why they invented fuses. Somehow the phone detects the gauge/length of cable being used and restricts the amperage being pulled from the charger by changing its own resistance on the circuit.
nswenson said:
Find a very short cable and you'll see rates up to 2100 ma (as measure by battery monitor widget). I use the short usb cable that came with my jambox combined with the the phones stock charger. The charger gets so hot due to the high current that I worry if it might burn out. The cable is very short, like 6 inches. I use this one when i need a quick bump before going out.
At this low of voltage plus high current, the shielding on most cables is not enough to protect against the voltage fluctuations caused by the high magnetic field. The longer the cable the more shielding is needed. Additionally, the cable shielding gets less effective as the cable gets older due to general wear. My original usb cable can only due around 740 - 1250ma, where it used to do 1800ma when new nearly 2 years ago.
If you could find a cable where there the positive and negative wires are separated in parallel strands like traditional AC power cords, it would also help. I have a cheap charger with built in cord like this and it charges consistently fast.
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I suspect you're right. The impedance of a cable is the only thing that would change over a period of time that would result in a cable that could once pull 2A to start pulling less than that. Still, it would be nice to have a list of chargers/cables that consistently pull 2A before dropping $15-$30 on one of them. There exists such a list on this forum, but it is filled with comments like "It's good enough for me", without any real data as to what performance they are getting. Hence my rules above.
The charge rate depends on your kernal not the cable. I use Agni and get over 2 amp charges from a USB cable I paid 12 cents shipped for on eBay.
I purchased this cable about two weeks ago and it delivers!! I can charge my 9300mah Zero Lemon battery from 0-100 in just under 4 hours. Stock battery in about 1.5-2hrs. Of course I'm using a 2.1 amp charger, but NONE of my other cables come close. I'm averaging 1800-1900mah charge rate with it. Next highest rate cord only gets about 1200 max. I plan on ordering 2-3 more. $5 and change with PRIME.
2.1A Micro USB Sync & Charging Cable (1M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Z94PV2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_7MD2tb08CY1N7R0J
carlz28 said:
I purchased this cable about two weeks ago and it delivers!! I can charge my 9300mah Zero Lemon battery from 0-100 in just under 4 hours. Stock battery in about 1.5-2hrs. Of course I'm using a 2.1 amp charger, but NONE of my other cables come close. I'm averaging 1800-1900mah charge rate with it. Next highest rate cord only gets about 1200 max. I plan on ordering 2-3 more. $5 and change with PRIME.
2.1A Micro USB Sync & Charging Cable (1M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Z94PV2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_7MD2tb08CY1N7R0J
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Thank you! This is exactly the type of review I was looking for!
:laugh:
Check this out. http://voyager8.blogspot.com/2013/04/how-to-choose-good-usb-data-and.htmlI found it while looking for the 6ft cable I used to use until it shorted from heavy use (bending a lot) and I got a pack of 10 short flat wire style 3ft cables. My 6ft one has a ferrite end and printed on it: 28agw/1p and 26awg/2c. It could handle 2A just fine, but this requires any wall outlet adapter that can output that amperage. The oem outlet adapter that comes with the phone says 2.0A output, but you can fine any 'reliable' one that has 2.0A output.
if the original cable is not 1800mA, there must be a reason
Get one of these
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5457&seq=1&format=2
anyone have this cable... or know if it is a 28AWG/1P + 24AWG/2C (i.e., 24AWG/2C for charging)
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-U.../B004GF8TIK/ref=pd_cp_e_1/186-6092214-7798820
Hi
Hard to get something original for samsung nowadays
I have those monoprice cables but get different results every time I plug in (1698ma, 1300ma, 600ma, 460ma, etc...)
carlz28 said:
I purchased this cable about two weeks ago and it delivers!! I can charge my 9300mah Zero Lemon battery from 0-100 in just under 4 hours. Stock battery in about 1.5-2hrs. Of course I'm using a 2.1 amp charger, but NONE of my other cables come close. I'm averaging 1800-1900mah charge rate with it. Next highest rate cord only gets about 1200 max. I plan on ordering 2-3 more. $5 and change with PRIME.
2.1A Micro USB Sync & Charging Cable (1M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Z94PV2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_7MD2tb08CY1N7R0J
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Which 2.1 amp charger are you using? I have one for my car, looking for one for home use. I also have the 9300mah ZeroLemon battery in my T-Mobile Note 2. Thanks!
Asquared said:
Which 2.1 amp charger are you using? I have one for my car, looking for one for home use. I also have the 9300mah ZeroLemon battery in my T-Mobile Note 2. Thanks!
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I was using the 2A charger that came with my Nexus tablet. But I bought an additional one for work.
iXCC ® Dual USB 4.2 Amp (20 Watt) SMART High Capacity [High Power] ... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPTU0OU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_PR7.tb01EM5CB
$11.99 thru PRIME.
Had this one for almost 3 months now and it works VERY well. I get a full 1900-2000mah charge rate on the Note2 and can charge my tablet at quick speeds simultaneously.
ElDuez said:
The charge rate depends on your kernal not the cable. I use Agni and get over 2 amp charges from a USB cable I paid 12 cents shipped for on eBay.
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some fake cable limit current.
Got similar problems as the OP. I wanted to charge my phone in my car and using the phone as a navigation device without depleting the battery (which occured a few time).
Tried several usb cables, even did some mods like shorting the white and green data wire in the cabel at the phone side, but that all didn't help.
Then i came to Kopi who sells usb cables which can deliver a full current.
http://kopi-d.com/?recent_works=553
Bought a few for 6 dollar each and am now a happy camper.
shizuku said:
Got similar problems as the OP. I wanted to charge my phone in my car and using the phone as a navigation device without depleting the battery (which occured a few time).
Tried several usb cables, even did some mods like shorting the white and green data wire in the cabel at the phone side, but that all didn't help.
Then i came to Kopi who sells usb cables which can deliver a full current.
http://kopi-d.com/?recent_works=553
Bought a few for 6 dollar each and am now a happy camper.
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We're sorry, but there are no items available in the Micro USB (Android) category lol on the web site
linkhunter said:
We're sorry, but there are no items available in the Micro USB (Android) category lol on the web site
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I just saw it. Why don't you email them and ask about availability? I had contact with Victor Leung ([email protected]).
The one I bought from Amazon.in->
http://www.amazon.in/Baseus-passed-...scsubtag=d1ee5b2c-e3c5-4567-8fa3-e99d4138e818
I bought 3 and haven't had any issues. Details in another thread.
I bought one cable from a chinese dealer on ebay for 1€. Other third party cables starting from ~4€ in Germany. It's working perfectly, no need to spend more money.
People are commenting here that the cheap cables are working, but the question is "is it safe to use".
here is a list with proven safe to use usb cables:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-3/accessories/safe-usb-c-compliant-cables-adapters-t3401820
these are all tested because there is a problem in cheap USB-C 3.0 cables, however the OP3 doesn't have usb 3.0.
I'd recommend to buy a cable/adapter from the list, its maybe $5 more expensive but you are sure you are safe.
What else is the issue than giving too much power to the phone? I tested my cables and charging limit is good, within charger's limits (2A charger, phone gets 1,4-1,6A).
I only buy the ones that Benson Leung recommends. he is a google employee who fried a pixel c with a bad cheap cable, and since that happened, he reviews on amazon and provides a pass or fail based on the correct implementation of USB C protocol within the cable/adapter/whatnot. https://plus.google.com/+BensonLeung
I got some Monoprice cables in and they charge fairly fast still even from the computer USB. It seems to stop charging about 85% but I'm good with that as this is for work and the car anyway.
but what is the definition of unsafe USB C cable?
A fake charger can be dangerous and they are weak anyway but a fake USB C, what's the risk?
I mean to cut the cost they could use low gauge wire, meaning the cable have high electrical resistance.
But a high resistance mean a low charging power and charging a battery slowly is safer.
Le_Zouave said:
but what is the definition of unsafe USB C cable?
A fake charger can be dangerous and they are weak anyway but a fake USB C, what's the risk?
I mean to cut the cost they could use low gauge wire, meaning the cable have high electrical resistance.
But a high resistance mean a low charging power and charging a battery slowly is safer.
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using the wrong spec for usb c cables (regardless of charging or not) can damage the port itself. Typically, if its an OTG, i dont think you will see the issue, but folks were using non-compliant cables with chargers and frying their devices.
I see, there is a controler in the cable head, unlike a normal usb cable. It make sense as this norm can allow usb C to usb C. For that new usb type, they copied apple...
I would say you shouldn't have a problems with any cable, just don't buy bad cheap ones.
Its no problem use cheap cable... Problem is use cheap cable and DASH charger. Because cheap cable is not built on such a stream. Threatens to burn cable.
used almost one month cable from ali with car charger, no problems, only charges a little bit slower. no heating, reboot and so on.
kordiak said:
Its no problem use cheap cable... Problem is use cheap cable and DASH charger. Because cheap cable is not built on such a stream. Threatens to burn cable.
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I tried my cables with dash charger and it charges the phone with normal speed, not dash.
jsomby said:
I tried my cables with dash charger and it charges the phone with normal speed, not dash.
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OP3 has about protection switch to prevent entry into the DASH because unoriginal cable might caught fire.