A few days ago I cracked the glass screen on my Dinc. There wasn't any significant damage aside from the crack, and my LCD screen is working fine, so I ordered a replacement on Amazon thinking I could replace it. I found a screen which reviewers claimed came with the tools necessary to replace the screens, although the product did not advertise it as such. I made the order to find that the replacement did not come with any tools, and now I am stumped. Does anyone know where I can find cheap (and usable) tools to crack open my Dinc? I was hoping to finish this before I return to college in a few weeks and I'd rather not go back with a broken screen.
Thanks in advance!
Not sure what "tools" you're looking for, but there are only a few things you need to take your dinc apart (I just did this with mine):
1. T6 screwdriver to remove 4 screws on the big red cover
2. A small flat-head screwdriver to release block clips around the big red housing and pop it off. (also used to open up the ribbon cable clips)
3. small philips-head screwdriver to remove screws securing the main board and LCD
4. X-acto knife + hairdryer to remove the digitizer (the glass that you cracked)
Do yourself a favor and order the digitizer with the frame. It eliminates the need to pry the broken glass out completely. It is a little more expensive, I think I paid $35 for mine, but well worth the time and effort! All in all it took me about an hour to complete mine! BTW, I found and ordered all the parts and tools from amazon.
Sounds like you cracked the digitizer yet you ordered a new screen?
m52 power! said:
Sounds like you cracked the digitizer yet you ordered a new screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Although the sentence structure is somewhat ambiguous, it sounds like he bought the correct replacement part, a digitizer.
swatmedic911 said:
Do yourself a favor and order the digitizer with the frame. It eliminates the need to pry the broken glass out completely. It is a little more expensive, I think I paid $35 for mine, but well worth the time and effort! All in all it took me about an hour to complete mine! BTW, I found and ordered all the parts and tools from amazon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll vouch for this, it's the biggest headache to replace JUST the glass.
Since you already got the glass, you can go ahead and order a bezel by itself if you want... make sure you get one that has adhesive on the metal lip on the inside so the dust won't get in there
swatmedic911 said:
Do yourself a favor and order the digitizer with the frame. It eliminates the need to pry the broken glass out completely. It is a little more expensive, I think I paid $35 for mine, but well worth the time and effort! All in all it took me about an hour to complete mine! BTW, I found and ordered all the parts and tools from amazon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly. I made the mistake of ordering JUST the screen and it was a complete headache. I subsequently ordered the frame/screen combo. Much easier.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
yeah i replaced mine but now i have trouble with the touch screen not working right. It randomly registers touches on the screen. Hope you don't run in to the same issue.
Glad to hear people are having success replacing these. I have a friend who's cracked his recently and will pass this thread on to him.
I replaced my screen with the digitizer/screen combo bought on amazon for under $20. it's a pain to install, but I found a good video on youtube and used their blowdryer method to make the glue more easy to manage and allow the screen to come off in fewer pieces. Also when you put the little ribbons back into their connectors make sure you get them all the way in - I had 256 color-like graphics for a little bit until I reconnected the screen properly
I've done it multiple times. I'm not clumsy, I just got the phone broken in the first place .
While it would make it easier to get the bezel, it can be done fine with just the digitizer.
They give you all the little plastic tools you need usually.
The last time I did it I used Krazy glue instead of very thin double sided tape.
I can answer any specific questions you have when replacing the digitizer if you want.
One request I have for you:
When I put the trackball back into place I wasn't sure if I did the correct order. It still works but it looks a little more recessed then it should be. Not a big deal, but it annoys me a tiny bit that my phone isn't perfect.
Could you record the exact order in which you disassemble it? It might even help you out later
drizzt5;19538891
One request I have for you:
When I put the trackball back into place I wasn't sure if I did the correct order. It still works but it looks a little more recessed then it should be. Not a big deal said:
I just replaced my screen tonight with an amazon digitizer kit and my trackball is also recessed. Might just open it back up and jam some leftover adhesive underneath it. I would recommend buying the frame though as it was a bit of a b*tch prying broken glass shards and adhesive from the thing. Would also make the phone look better as well..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont have a cracked screen but a very banged up bezel and battery cover. i calculated it and everything will cost me a total of $35 to replace. this includes the digitizer, bezel, battery cover and camera lens. cant wait to get this done.
thanks for the info on here.
Order the digitizer WITH the housing shell. I cracked my screen, too, and ordered the digitizer/screen only and ended up damaging my housing shell. The hairdryer trick is bogus and doesn't work very well, so spend the extra $10 to get the housing.
I was going to repare the screen to resell on Ebay, but since I broke the housing, I decided to just sell the actual AMOLED screen for $40. I'll find other parts I can sell, too, such as the motherboard and camera piece. Might actually end up making more money. Ah well.
I don't use Verizon anymore, which is why I ditched the DInc. Will miss it though. I do love HTC Sense. I have a Samsung Exhibit II now.
My first time doing this was with the digitizer only. Biggest mistake of my life! I could've made it work, but I was getting it replaced since it was bricked and superglue oozing out the sides might have raised some eyebrows. Digitizer+frame, void sticker, and 2 weeks later I had a "new" dinc.
I've cracked the outer layer of glass on my optimus x2 which I assume is just the digitizer (I'm new to all this smartphone jazz but i've had alot of experience with building computers and such and i can follow instructions) and i'm guessing the cheapest way to repair this thing is to do it myself. I emailed LG asking about what they can do with it and they were asking for £20 just to look at the damn thing so i can't imagine actually doing any work on it would be cheap.
(can't post links but it was just some cheap generic one from amazon for £30)
I'm guessing something like this would do the job but I also need some special adhesive to get the LCD to stick to the digitizer am i right? I'm worried that it will not be as responsive or i'll do it wrong and i only recently dished out £250 for this so i'd like to try and do this right. I've watched a couple of videos on youtube which have helped a bit but none went right through the process so if anyone with any experience doing this could tell me about it i'd be very grateful.
its not that hard. everything just peels off when heated with a hair drier.
the digitzer should come with sticky strips which go around the outside of the lcd and stick to the out side of the digitizer.
Also try to get a digitizer with a frame already on it. otherwise youll have a little bit of a hard time trying to remove the glass from the frame, then gluing in the new one with adhesive.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K77Xepb6yd8
Just follow this guide exactly, you should be fine man
Supupa said:
its not that hard. everything just peels off when heated with a hair drier.
the digitzer should come with sticky strips which go around the outside of the lcd and stick to the out side of the digitizer.
Also try to get a digitizer with a frame already on it. otherwise youll have a little bit of a hard time trying to remove the glass from the frame, then gluing in the new one with adhesive.
Just follow this guide exactly, you should be fine man
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply, that's a lot of help Could you recommend any retailer that sells these? I can't work out if any of the ones i'm looking at come with the sticky strips. Would I also not need any adhesive if it comes with the frame? I'm not sure I trust myself too much with doing that either.....
I recently replaced my digitizer. I ordered a digitizer already in housing off ebay, shipped from Hong Kong. I would strongly recommend buying it with housing, as it's often difficult to completely make sure that dust does not get between the digitizer and the screen when you're using adhesive tape.
When disassemblying the o2x, I found the adhesive sticking the LCD to the digitizer frame was too strong for the LCD to come off just like that (be careful, it's quite fragile). I heated the LCD a bit using a hair dryer, to make it come of easier. This has the added effect that enough adhesive may stick to the LCD, so you don't need to replace it when placing it in the new frame.
I only added a couple of adhesive strips to the top and bottom of the new frame before mouting the LCD. That was pretty stupid, cause the extra 0.1mm between the digitizer and the LCD means that when tilting the phone ~60 degrees to the sides, I can see the backlights at the sides of the screen. Surprisingly this doesn't seem to add any noticeable backlight bleeding though, so it's not a problem at all. However, I'd suggest to try and see if the LCD sticks to the frame with the old adhesive, before using adhesive strips. And if using adhesive strips, make sure you remove all the old adhesive from the LCD, and use adhesive strips all around the frame.
The only minor things to look out for are:
- Be very careful with the LCD! It takes very little flexing before getting dead stripes/areas.
- Careful with the plastic at the USB port - it's a bit difficult to get to fit, and it's quite thin, so I figure it will break easily.
- At the top of the phone, where the digitizer (or LCD, I don't remember) cable is mounted, there's a little grey rubber-thingy - it suddenly fell off my phone, and it took embarrassingly long to figure out where and how it fits
- The small backup battery (?) in the upper left corner of the phone is glued to the frame. I used a small flat-headed screw driver to release it from the frame. Don't try and remove it by yanking the flex cable.
But all in all, replacing the digitizer with a new one (already in a frame) was a quick and easy operation.
Edit: I bought this digitizer: ebay. co. uk/itm/T-Mobile-LG-P990-Optimus-2X-Replacement-Touch-Screen-Digitizer-Frame-ZVLT338-/160656180054?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item2567dac356 and some cheap 2mm adhesive strips like ebay. co .uk/itm/3M-Sticker-tape-Adhesive-cellphone-touch-screen-LCD-2mm-HTC-Samsung-Sony-/200710386131?pt=UK_Mobiles_Accessories_RL&hash=item2ebb4571d3#ht_1099wt_1165
Why didn't I think of this before.. been cracks in my display for almost a half year now.
Local repair company said it takes two weeks to fix.. I had no plans to go two weeks without my phone
Just ordered one
p990 mother board
dear friend
sorry for my eanglish i write from italy.
i need your help but before i have to explane my problems:
i've a lg optimus x2 (p990) with water demage.....
i cleaned the mother board with success..now the phone turn on and fix the phone net and it can recognize the battery charge.
but unfortunately WI-FI,BLUETOOTH AND MIC(the people who call me can't hear me) DON'T WORK, THE GPS I DON'T KNOW BECAUSE I HOPE TO RESTORE THE WII-FI AND INSTAL GOOGLE MAPS.
i'm sure that wi-fi problems come from the mother board because i have an other same device so i made a test using the good one but the mic problems persisted
my question is ,do you know wich parts i have to check and clean again?
do you know where the wii-fi component are located in the mother board?
thanks for your attention
a friend
marco zavatta
Sorry for bringing up this old thread, but I have to ask, are all Optimus 2X digitizers the same? Don't some have different connectors or anything? Can I order any Optimus 2X digitizer for my P990? I was thinking of this digitizer, will it work?: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Digitizer-F...7BUA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364833172&sr=8-1
I had to replace mine recently, I read there are cheap ones where they only recognize 2 fingers instead of 5 like the genuine LG part. I ordered my digitizer from Ebay for around 18 british pound, I followed a few videos on Youtube with the disassembly, it's actually not that hard.
Keep in mind though that not all digitizers might come with glue attached or come with plastic tools, so keep a small bottle of glue and some plastic tools (credit card style plastic, knife) ready. One video recommends buying foam pads to glue around the digitizer, I didn't find that necessary, I just glued my new digitizer back onto the frame without problems. I accidentally made some glue residue onto the inside of mine, so make sure that you work very carefully
I have done this twice. It is not too hard and a lot cheaper. I follow this guide: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po8hBaZt__o.
Do yourself a favour and buy a digitizer with bezel (which is a frame). The first I bought was ****ty Hong Kong digitizer, the second one good Polish(?): http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_nkw=p990&_sacat=0&_odkw=&_osacat=0&_armrs=1&_ssn=digitaloutlet.pl
The hardest part is not to get dust between digitizer and lcd screen - you could consider wearing gloves...
The second hardest part is not to bend bezel around usb inlet.
Good luck!
So there's no connector difference?
kaspar737 said:
So there's no connector difference?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The connector should fit any p990. If you are in doubt email the seller.
oneearleft said:
The connector should fit any p990. If you are in doubt email the seller.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for coming back to this rather old thread, but I have recently replaced the digitizer on my LG P990, bought on ebay shipped from Hongkong, following the video guide cited above. However the digitizer now works erratically with upper 1/4 not responding to touch, and sometimes the whole thing does not work, so I am unable to unlock the phone at all. The only thing that worried me during replacement was the thin layer of plastic film on the inner side, which teared off when removing protective layer (the film was extremely thin and fragile)-would this be the problem? Or the digitizer itself is of low quality?
Any suggestions appreciated.
Hi to all,
Before you ask, yes!, I did use the search and found some related posts to my issue, but a little outdated and I read so many things that I think I'm more confused.
My HD2 works without problems with the broken screen...but unless i have tape on it, i I'll cut my fingers...so after almost a year i decided it's time to repair it!
For that, I WANT to buy an LCD+Digitizer Glass Replacement (because i hear some are made of plastic). Because there are at least 3 different versions (so i heard) of HD2 LCD and hundreds of listings on ebay, I'm afraid to buy the wrong part.
Correct me if I'm mistaken:
There are 2 types of connection, solder or socket type. Mine is definitely socket (60H00300), correct?
Every socket version (60H00300) is the one that the LCD is better, right?
If i purchase any LCD+Digitizer combo that states as "for HD2 T-Mobile T8585 solderless/version 2/socket" will it be ok? Even without the T-Mobile logo on top? ...I ask this because I know for a fact that the US T-Mobile version has a slightly larger screen/digitizer!
Plus, I would also appreciate if someone pointed out an original screen replacement (meaning scratch resistance glass digitizer) that i could buy with confidence! :highfive:
Here's my sad HD2...i had to put tape on it, or the top right corner would fall in pieces..
Your TMOUS LCD & Digitizer is 100% same size as any other model HD2.
size difference is in the casing below the buttons & is about 1.5mm to allow for different antenna setup on mainboard.
Any 300 type will fit & work fine but you are indeed correct in assuming issues on quality & materials used.
Buying complete LCD/Digitizer does not mean you will get better quality parts & to be honest it maybe worse as the quality of tape used on some of these is poor.
If your LCD is fine I would make the effort to remove the Digitizer & thus just replace digitizer.
Can be done by warming it up with a quality hair-dryer & using a few new razor blades to loosen the bond, time & care is the key here.
Tapes for rebuild can be found on eBay from poland with worldwide shipping.
Digitizer for TMOUS is this one:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230897875502?
You would be advised to use a film on lens as even the glass ones can scratch as not as hard as original.
Trying to find original is a pain & high cost for possibly no gain ...
Most important part is learning good repair steps & using good care when stripping & rebuilding as without that a good or poor quality digitizer will be just as useful as a beer mat.
Mister B said:
Your TMOUS LCD & Digitizer is 100% same size as any other model HD2.
size difference is in the casing below the buttons & is about 1.5mm to allow for different antenna setup on mainboard.
Any 300 type will fit & work fine but you are indeed correct in assuming issues on quality & materials used.
Buying complete LCD/Digitizer does not mean you will get better quality parts & to be honest it maybe worse as the quality of tape used on some of these is poor.
If your LCD is fine I would make the effort to remove the Digitizer & thus just replace digitizer.
Can be done by warming it up with a quality hair-dryer & using a few new razor blades to loosen the bond, time & care is the key here.
Tapes for rebuild can be found on eBay from poland with worldwide shipping.
Digitizer for TMOUS is this one:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230897875502?
You would be advised to use a film on lens as even the glass ones can scratch as not as hard as original.
Trying to find original is a pain & high cost for possibly no gain ...
Most important part is learning good repair steps & using good care when stripping & rebuilding as without that a good or poor quality digitizer will be just as useful as a beer mat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The main reason for me to buy the LCD+Digitizer is that i cant afford to be without my HD2 for more than a couple of days...and if I mess up ending the relationship between the LCD and its digitizer....I may end up with two (or three) broken "hearts"!
I'll risk in buying an LCD+Glass Digitizer "300 type" (+film protector) and then attempt to recover the original LCD for a "future repair" as you suggest!
Thank you for your reply, it really answered my issues! (I pushed the thanks button...but for some unknown reason to me it didn't work )
Shwanz said:
The main reason for me to buy the LCD+Digitizer is that i cant afford to be without my HD2 for more than a couple of days...and if I mess up ending the relationship between the LCD and its digitizer....I may end up with two (or three) broken "hearts"!
I'll risk in buying an LCD+Glass Digitizer "300 type" (+film protector) and then attempt to recover the original LCD for a "future repair" as you suggest!
Thank you for your reply, it really answered my issues! (I pushed the thanks button...but for some unknown reason to me it didn't work )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good luck, hope it works out fine ...
hi
my display was broken, but have worked for a year or so.
now it is frozen/ unresponsive and i have purchased a full display.
just found a very easy way to replace the whole display in just 3 minutes by accessing it from the front side..
i am not yet allowed to post the link, but if you google this
IMPEXTROM CAMBIAR TROCAR DISPLAY HTC HD2
you will see the 3 minutes video
but it seems too easy to be possible ...
any hints?
thanx &cheers
That been set up for the video as you can see it been off before & the chassis the lcd is bonded to is clean of all bonding tape :-/
Also original has signal interference tape runing down sides across all 3 layers.
also if you heat the front first thing to seperate is the digi from LCD as the lcd to mid chassis is a strong bond.
Best way is popping them out of rear cover, fitting a pre built lcd/digitizer is not hard, just use quality adhesive to hold lcd to centre chassis & buy pre cut black foam tape for the top & bottom digi glass edges or rebuild is next to pointless without this done well.
I've done a good 30 odd HD2 screen & mainboards & no way I could do it to my standard via that video.
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
gunemalli said:
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am looking for the LCD and digitizer assembly. but i am trying to find OEM part
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
housing is not an issue
Lttlwing16 said:
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
i bought one
squee666 said:
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i did buy one from ebay today, after been an annoying person with lots of questions hahaha. i refused to buy from anyone below 99% profile credential on ebay. here are the questions i asked lol
Is the LCD screen manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store? if not, is the same Quality, TRUE IPS LCD with Gorilla Glass 2 digitizer?
Is this LCD part brand new or refurbished from reclaimed old parts?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel new or refurbished, or reclaimed from old parts?
and if I bought a brand new in box sealed G2 from LG, the part I’m asking about would be 100% identical with no differences in quality or condition?
does it work on D800 model, if not do you have one that works with D800 that is a genuine OEM?
is it OEM (Original equipment manufacturer), does it have part number on the flex cable, and LG display co,ltd label ?
only one seller, answered all of them concisely, without political correctness or avoidance. lots of them stopped talking to me, and some only answered vaguely. i had one hilarious response, who said the the screen is OEM but not genuine, i insisted for him to elaborate, he said OEM but not original. all of us know that OEM stands for Original equipment manufacturer. i sent him a response, that it does not make sense to be OEM but not original. he replied back OEM for them is, Optical equipment manufacturer lol, heck i do not even know what does that mean lol. i took a screenshot of the definition and sent it to him, he never replied back hahaha. many shady seller on ebay
P.s once i receive the part and install it, i will update on the condition/quality
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Link
noris08 said:
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251591046010?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
working
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
sdcaliber said:
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
jamracer said:
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
sdcaliber said:
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
jamracer said:
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
sshark said:
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah maybe, all depends of course. most of these products are subject to opinions if there is doubt about their OEM legitimacy. but for me, i will not buy non OEM for battery again, it scares the hell out of me. let's say i had a horrible experience before. i had Note 3, and bought a battery for it. the extra capacity made me drools lol, so i went with it. days later, i found the phone in total meltdown, literally. woke up from my sleep, and the phone is melting/fire.... scary scary experience. the good thing, i do not sleep while my phone next to me. it was on my table, charging.
side not: the original battery of Note 3 malfunctioned
OEM
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought it on Ebay and now it´s working fine, nice!!.. First I bought only the digitizer and it was faulting, but now this assembly is really working fine:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281280382756?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Regards,
Just posting to share my experience. I bought a replacement lcd\digitizer for my G2. Once installed, i had white lines going up and down the screen.
Some devices use different panel hardware (JDI instead of LGIT) and you will have white lines after using patched kernel. You must use those kernel with "_jdi" in its name. More info:http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...&postcount=122
After flashing the new kernal the phone works great. The phone does get noticeably hotter, unfortunately, which is a little worrisome.
The kernal issue and the heat lead me to believe that what i bought was not oem.
Sent from my LG-D801 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Is D800 frame compatible with LS980?
sdcaliber said:
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was just working on a frame lcd assembly swap on an LS980 rev 1. The frame I bought was a Verizon LV980 and the vibrator was off buy at least 3mm, I didn't mind losing the vibrator to gain a good lcd. Then the proximity detector layout was different, the LS980 had an extra piece that fit in a hole, but it could be removed. About 5mm below that is a ground connector for the motherboard on the LS980 but not on the VS980 and the tab holding the antenna coax hit the motherboard making the frame about 0.5mm too small causing the mobo not to seat.
All of these could be amended. Shave 0.5mm of the soft metal chassis, very easy, mobo grounds in at least six other places and proximity sensor had a removable tab.
But the bottom of the chassis where the dock port/usb board sits was just too different, the LS980 daughterboard wouldn't seat, it was larger. It could be forced but only at an angle that made the usb port off-center and not parallel to the opening. My repair stopped and re-assembled the phone with the LS980 chassis complete with my damaged lcd.
-----attached pics of proximity sensor, and ground connector area, didn't take more, I was getting mad.
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually I bought an LCD from this company. I am very happy with it. It is true HD and the it was shipped for me in 3 days as they said. At first I was very worried with the comments but I took the risk and I am satisfied with it. I don't know why others complain about it but I recommend them.