Database Develop

[GUIDE] [BRICKED] Loading Roms/CWR via SD Fails - Black Screen of Death (28/02)

As we know, the Nook Color's SD slot will always take first boot priority. I'm in a situation where even booting via SD through known methods are not working.
The purpose of this thread is to:
1) Share with others who are in this similar situation, on methods which may result in the recovery of their own devices
2) Keep this discussion healthy so one day, I will be able to restore my own bricked device which I'm still striving hard to.
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IMPORTANT: If you have a bricked device I need to emphasize on searching and reading very carefully what others have shared here in both General and in Development. This is a fundamental requirement, as with the ability to follow instructions and not panic by creating unnecessary threads. This will only make things harder to find, so thank you in advance for not doing that.
There are many useful guides out there, some of which the most helpful are:
Nook Color Restore to stock by samuelhalff
Dummies Guide to Fixing 'My Nook Won't Boot' by RileyGrant
Stock 1.1.0 Clockwork Recovery Image by brianf21
Nook 1.01 stock dd images by shad0wf0x
[RECOVERY] Monster RootPack 0.7 / Clockwork Recovery 3.0.0.5 SD by thecubed
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Anyway, in severe bricking cases where hardware is not at fault, many of the solutions to restore the NC begins with either:
1) Booting to CWR-SD via uSD
2) Booting to a rom i.e. Nookie Froyo via uSD
3) Having ADB access, if available
Till date I am not sure why the SD-loaded programs do not work for me, and here are the symptoms:
1) Without SD inserted, the standard BN splash appears, 'Welcome to the Future of Reading', then gets stuck there till powered down. Needless to say, the 8-times reset method doesn't work.
2) With SD inserted, the 'LOADING' screen will splash, then screen blacks out with device still powered on . You will know that the device is still running as you need to hold power down for around 20 secs before you're able to power it back up again. I call this the 'Black Screen of Death'.
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To get your device up and running, try the following:
0) Do not panic. As long there's no hardware failure there will always be a solution. Look at me, thing's still a damn brick and yet here I am, still hopeful
1) Perform a search, read the useful threads created by the above members first. This thread is related only to failed SD-booting.
Once you've done that, prepare your recovery options with these in mind. The elimination process is part and parcel of problem-solving. In no particular order:
2) Sometimes, try powering on your device by connecting the USB cable from your PC or A/C source, instead of using the Power button.
3) Use only the original USB cable that came with your device.
4) Use the back USB ports of your PC, instead of the fronts as they may provide more consistent power and connection to your device. Try to avoid using USB hubs as they may not distribute the required power equally/properly.
5) Try switching to different USB ports, some may be hardware-gimped due to wear-and-tear.
6) Try to attempt the recovery on another Win, Mac or Linux computer. At least eliminate further possibilities of environmental hardware error.
7) Try charging the battery full.
8) Or, try discharging the battery completely, by leaving the device in BSOD state overnight until you get a message saying your device can't boot due to insufficient power when switched on. Once you are in this state, keep booting the device up until the screen does not appear. Then, recharge it back to full to see if the OS returns to stock (I am sceptical of this, but this was what others advised).
9) Try different SD cards. The device could be picky. Variety should be by class-type, brand, SDHC or non-SDHC. It's been discussed that faster cards perform better, as with more reknowned brands. Also, 16GB cards reportedly do not run Froyo (do read more by searching).
10) When loading anything via SD (CWR, roms), try different button combinations i.e. power + n + up, power + n, etc.
11) And/or, hold power for various timed-presses i.e. >30 / 45 / 60 seconds. Some members report CWR booting up after these periods, or even longer.
Note: funnily I tried holding power + n + up for > 60 seconds and the 'LOADING' screen just stays frozen. Still doesn't work, and I didn't get any ADB access.
12) Try formatting the card completely with native Win/Linux tools, EASEUS Partition Master or SDFormatter before each burn.
13) Try using both Win32DiskImager and WinImage, or dd-ing in Linux (search for more instructions). If you have Linux, you can check to see if the SD's /boot partition is indeed bootable or not.
14) For ADB access, try to unregister your hardware (go to Start > Run > devmgmt.msc), then unplug-replug device to have your PC detect it again. If a device with VID of 2080 shows up, that's the NC. You should know what this means, by now. If not, read more here.
15) Try different SD card readers, especially when experiencing failure on multiple computers. As opposed to multi-adapters i.e. 6-in-1s, try dedicated microSD readers like this one. Do not use those microSD-to-normalSD converters (usually packed together in the same shipping plastic as your card) just because you only have a reader that reads regular SD cards, they tend to fail a lot.
16) At your own risk, try cleaning the contact points on your SD cards (if you must, use cleaning alcohol and a cottom swap/q-tip - do not use water), to free them of dirt and invisible grime. If you have multiple SDs, try cleaning the least expensive ones first. Don't forget to leave them to dry completely before insertion into the NC. Credit to bonobomidwest, read his experience here.
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17) Use Nooter 0.2 (recommendation from thecubed):
Here's my recommendation: use the stock charger cable (the one with the light-up N in it) when you try Nooter 0.2.
If the light goes from orange to green (or something like that) that means Nooter is booted and working.
My new thought: some file in /rom is missing, which controls the backlight and lcd controller. I can't prove this, but it seems logical haha.
All you need to do is get Nooter 0.2 booted and ssh'd in and you'll be able to dd over a complete 1.0.1 backup.
rawfish: I use Ubuntu, so sorry if I'm not able to provide instructions for Windows
Type:
Code:
sudo ifconfig usb0 192.168.2.1
Then:
Code:
ssh [email protected]
And you should be able to follow the directions for restoring on the wiki... either that or check around on IRC, if you tell them that you've got ssh access and you just need to restore your device, they'll help you out if I'm not around..
rawfish: I typed 'dmesg' in shell to see if the NC connected as a usb-ethernet device, and it doesn't show. If it does for you, then you should have progress and should ask around in IRC.
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All these did not work for me, but hope this is useful to some. I've read testimonies from everyone that this is an unbrickable device, and I certainly hope it's true, and for a kind soul to help suggest more solutions. As I'm overseas, do you think I should call BN up to see if I can arrange to send my device back for fixing/replacement? It's been a month since purchase, and 3 weeks of failed restore attempts.
Disclaimer: I am not responsible if any of these methods get you in deeper trouble. Attempt at your own risk. Credit goes to thecube aka IOMonster, and the #nookcolor channel on irc.freenode.net. Thank you to everyone who created the recovery guides too.

This space reserved.

You sure you just don't have crap or badly burned SD cards? Sounds pretty much what happens if you boot s really slow/junk SD or burn it badly.

khaytsus said:
You sure you just don't have crap or badly burned SD cards? Sounds pretty much what happens if you boot s really slow/junk SD or burn it badly.
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I tried on 6 different SD cards:
1. Transcend 8GB Class 6
2. Transcend 4GB Class 2
3. Wintec 16GB Class 10
4. Sandisk 4GB Class 4
5. Sandisk 2GB non-SDHC
6. Sandisk 256MB
I've burned stuffs like Autonooter and Honeycomb on these before, and they worked fine.

rawfish said:
I tried on 6 different SD cards:
1. Transcend 8GB Class 6
2. Transcend 4GB Class 2
3. Wintec 16GB Class 10
4. Sandisk 4GB Class 4
5. Sandisk 2GB non-SDHC
6. Sandisk 256MB
I've burned stuffs like Autonooter and Honeycomb on these before, and they worked fine.
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First of all - great job in pulling all the resources into one place (it's small consolation, but i think you've just helped a whole load of people )
Second, i apologise if I'm telling you stuff that's obvious, but in helping out on these forums often it's the LOGIC of troubleshooting rather than the particulars of the problem that are important... In other words, only vary one thing at a time, and ALWAYS swap out every piece of hardware involved at each stage... if you always rely on one piece of hardware this might be the weak link... so have you tried a different SD drive or adapter? and have you tried burning from a different computer?
Now, I'm not being insulting, because I had a virtually identical problem with my first froyo - it just wouldn't boot (as you describe) despite multiple burns, different cards, all of the standard formatting tricks etc. It wouldn't work in multiple computers - the common element being the SD/microSD adapter. It never occurred to me that such an electrically simple part could be at fault, but you bet it was - in fact i would say in my experience these things consistently fail! (I spent a day kickign myself, because we know ho unreliable they are from using them in other devices). They also all look alike so it's hard to keep track of which one you are dealing with They also fail unexpectedly, so if you used an adapter before there's no guarantee it's working now...
Sooo... Have you tried a dedicated microSD reader (rather than a simple adapter)? I now carry one with me everywhere (it doubles as the world's smallest thumb drive too)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HGFKR8
Also bear in mind that froyo appears not to work on 16gb cards (i see you tried one)
Also, from my experience with other devices these cards are very sensitive to dirt and oil on the contacts. Certainly with enough frustrated handling you can get enough finger-grease on them to have them fail. Also they seem to be much less tolerant when writing than reading. I have NO idea how you would go about cleaning out the slot in the NC (and as someone who has ruined at least one DVD drive by blowing canned air where you shouldn't I'm not going to advocate for that). I have resurrected 'dead' SD cards before by cleaning the contacts with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip (on the card's contacts) - but again do so with great care (at your own risk!!!) and with your cheapest card, and make sure it si completely dry before you put it in the NC.
I have been generally a little scared that all this plugging and unplugging of the microSD might hurt the NC, so i have done everything i can to avoid that...

I am sure you can find someone local to you willing to help fix your boot issue but I assure you, its damn near impossible to brick a nook without physical damage.

@bonobomidwest:
No offence taken at all, in fact I am very appreciative of your contribution. I forgot to add the fact that I tried on 2 different card readers, plus indeed tried to clean the slot via an air duster VERY GENTLY as a last effort resort (I would not recommend this, it may cause permanent hardware damage). Once I'm free I'll go get a new SD reader (reads uSD only) and a new uSD which I haven't tried before. I'll try cleaning the contact points too.
*Thanks - I've added more checklists to the OP
@combustiblemonkey:
Thanks for the assurance.

I convinced my friend to buy a nook, rooted it for him, and was bricked within 2 days. Here is how I fixed it
EDIT: I tried to post a link, but was unable. If you go to theunlockr(dot)com and search for how to restore nook color to stock, there is a detailed article.
This took me almost 2 days of reboots, black screens, and freezing. I would get into CWR, and it would freeze. Had to reboot, got the black screen of death. Literally, a couple hundred reboots before it said that the OS has successfully installed, and of course, it froze again. Many more reboots, and it was finally at stock. I figure getting it back to stock was enough to return it.

Dr-Rockso said:
I convinced my friend to buy a nook, rooted it for him, and was bricked within 2 days. Here is how I fixed it
EDIT: I tried to post a link, but was unable. If you go to theunlockr(dot)com and search for how to restore nook color to stock, there is a detailed article.
This took me almost 2 days of reboots, black screens, and freezing. I would get into CWR, and it would freeze. Had to reboot, got the black screen of death. Literally, a couple hundred reboots before it said that the OS has successfully installed, and of course, it froze again. Many more reboots, and it was finally at stock. I figure getting it back to stock was enough to return it.
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Thanks, this is the direct link:
http://theunlockr.com/2011/02/14/how-to-restore-the-nook-color-to-stock
All instructions were taken from XDA, plus no guarantee it's the most updated
Moving on, great to hear you've gotten it back to stock. Man, you've got GREAT patience, a couple hundred reboots?
1) Was the SD inserted in or not? Curious about the OS successfully installed message, which is the result of 8x unsuccessful reboots without SD inserted.
2) Could you also provide a more detailed account on what you did? Looking forward to hear - thanks.

Hi rawfish
I also have this issue and have been trying many things. My nook did boot nooter 0.2 (the light went green) but I couldn't get Win 7 or Ubuntu to connect to it. My screen never changes at all, no backlight even. Seems this may be a larger issue than most believe it to be, especially for people like us who don't live in the US.

chrysilis said:
Hi rawfish
I also have this issue and have been trying many things. My nook did boot nooter 0.2 (the light went green) but I couldn't get Win 7 or Ubuntu to connect to it. My screen never changes at all, no backlight even. Seems this may be a larger issue than most believe it to be, especially for people like us who don't live in the US.
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If you can find a friend or person in your area having the same device, you can try to see if an SD you burned work on theirs. If it works on theirs, it's possible that your SD slot is defective - but then comes the question of it being in working condition before the bricking happened, right?
I still think mine's recoverable, as with yours. Could be a bad SD or reader, or bad contacts. I'm going to try out using another reader plus purchase an el-cheapo branded SD. I'm also going to try formatting it via another PC in a linux environment and messing around with the partitions.
I understand the trouble you may have taken to get the device - and this happens. All the best mate, and do cheer up, don't give up.

rawfish said:
Thanks, this is the direct link:
All instructions were taken from XDA, plus no guarantee it's the most updated
Moving on, great to hear you've gotten it back to stock. Man, you've got GREAT patience, a couple hundred reboots?
1) Was the SD inserted in or not? Curious about the OS successfully installed message, which is the result of 8x unsuccessful reboots without SD inserted.
2) Could you also provide a more detailed account on what you did? Looking forward to hear - thanks.
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Click to collapse
When I finally got it to work, the SD card was installed with the 1.0.1 stock OS on it, and CWR. The problem was that that (+) and (-) would only occasionally work. And if they did, it would usually freeze. I would be able to format system, but it would freeze if I tried to format data. Powered off, and I would get the black screen of death (BSoD). Once this happened, I would plug it into my computer so that I could hear the chime indicating a new device was plugged in. I found that ejecting the SD and then rebooting would sometimes help get rid of the BSoD. Then another power down, plug in the SD, and start again. Also, holding the N, +, and Power would sometimes help in launching CWR. I would usually have to hold for 60 seconds, but it would finally launch. It seemed like the nook was trying to run a process that slowing it down and causing it to freeze, but I couldn't figure out what it was. If I would wait an hour, it would boot CWR and allow me to format system and data, but then it would freeze when I would try to install the zip.
The successful install message was in CWR. It said Install From SD Card Complete, or something like that. After that, I still had to do the 8 reboots. It would load up the stock welcome screen and freeze. 8 reboots later, I got the video lady. Good enough to return it to the store.
It really was just persistence. It would usually take an hour of reboots before I was able to try to install the zip, and it probably failed on me 15+ times. The status bar would get half way, and freeze. Then I had to begin again. If it had been my nook instead of my friends, I probably would have given up. I wish I could be more specific, but unfortunately I am new to all of this. My nook rooted just fine, and fixing his is really my only experience with CWR. I just kept going until it worked.
Good luck! It is a pain in the ass, but it can happen.

rawfish said:
If you can find a friend or person in your area having the same device, you can try to see if an SD you burned work on theirs. If it works on theirs, it's possible that your SD slot is defective - but then comes the question of it being in working condition before the bricking happened, right?
I still think mine's recoverable, as with yours. Could be a bad SD or reader, or bad contacts. I'm going to try out using another reader plus purchase an el-cheapo branded SD. I'm also going to try formatting it via another PC in a linux environment and messing around with the partitions.
I understand the trouble you may have taken to get the device - and this happens. All the best mate, and do cheer up, don't give up.
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My wife has one as well so am able to test using that and the SD works fine in hers. The whole screen not turning on thing is weird though, does your screen turn on?
We bought them when on honeymoon in America so didn't have to pay a shipper or anything

Deleting the partitions manually with Gparted and using dd to burn the SDs and making sure the correct partitions are bootable doesn't seem to work. Last night I retried a lot of the previously attempted options, with no results.
It's weird to think that a working SD slot and a slew of cards will suddenly malfunction, but for now that seems like the most plausible reason why my NC can't boot anything off SD.
To think back how it all started, the device suddenly rebooted from HC preview v0.4 to stock BN 1.01 (rooted + installed CWR on eMMC) while the SD is inserted, then upon another reboot it simply stays dead, this gives me reason to believe that the internal boot partition is corrupted, and SD slot nuked hardware-wise.
Hmmm, really hoping to find someone else who has the same device, in my area.

Right now I am at the Black Screen of Death as well...
I think Barnes should refund me, but I am willing to do some tests for the good of society.

Steelfan555 said:
Right now I am at the Black Screen of Death as well...
I think Barnes should refund me, but I am willing to do some tests for the good of society.
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Click to collapse
Sorry to hear that, and don't give up! Hope you took a look at the other threads, and this little pseudo checklist I made in the OP. Do share the outcome

Thank you Rawfish. The first option, the Dummies Guide to Fixing 'My Nook won't boot'
was what I needed to get started on the right track again. Though I'm not sure anyone wants to know how I ended up here, I'm grateful to those that put in the time and effort to find any of these solutions.
Thank you!

FroztIkon said:
Thank you Rawfish. The first option, the Dummies Guide to Fixing 'My Nook won't boot'
was what I needed to get started on the right track again. Though I'm not sure anyone wants to know how I ended up here, I'm grateful to those that put in the time and effort to find any of these solutions.
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update:
Ok, so after running through it, I ended up getting stuck on the boot screen that shows N. If I powered off, it would restart and get stuck at that screen. I tried the 8 shutdowns (it installed new software), but afterwards, it was still stuck. So, I tried another method I found on the forums. I powered off holding the N button and power, which caused it to boot back up and do a factory reset. I now have a factory fresh Nook.

Okay, it's been a while since I kept this thread updated - I contacted BN and had the device sent back, apparently the SD slot failed so they sent me a new one. I'm just wondering if it's sheer concidence that it happened, as I was tinkering with Nookie Honey preview v0.4, when the hardware suddenly failed.
Oh well, I guess the NC still remains as a 99.99% unbrickable device - with the 0.01% being related to the ambiguous root cause to my case.
I now have 2 NCs (one from the RMA process, another one from the $199 eBay deal.

[Fixed]HP touchpad psychedelic screen (broken?)

Hey all just got this from a co worker as I revived a few others, but haven't seen this...any ideas?
UPDATE: got it fixed...the screen problem was from a corrupt NVRAM mmcblk0p12..It was missing tokens as well...first i ran tpdebrick-v004 to get it booted to this the crazy screen, then made a meta doctor that bypassed the token check by going into meta-doctor,and this is where it was hard to get things to complete how i wanted...from meta doctor wiki the commands are a tad off for our device and what i needed to do..using the link http://www.webos-internals.org/wiki/Sprint_Pre_Plus#Step_2:_Setup_meta-doctor as referance I cloned meta-doctor *but instead of putting the webos doctor 3.0.5 in the downloads folder i put in webosdoctor3.0.0 renamed to 3.0.5
1.Ran "make unpack" then went in and edited the recoverytool.config to remove the approvalbuildname,approvalcharliehash,and approvalmikehash.(i then edited the topaz.xml file in the webos folder to add tokens from another 32gb i had..(unknown consequences though)but should have worked without?.
THEN 2.Ran "make patch"
3.then ran "make DEVICE=touchpad CARRIER=wifi all" it will skip the make unpack and make patch commands and use your modified ones..these are the steps that seemed to be the differance for me and were not found..Maybe i shoulda known
4.membooted the device to rebuild the partitions(had to do this step multiple times as i was getting all the known errors)
5.Ran the modified webosdoctor from meta doctor and SUCCESS!!
And this was done multiple times til it all went smooth with no errors in one pass.*once the modified webosdoctor was made all i had to do was the tpdebrick and partition rebuild without error for the doctor to complete...sorry for the ramble....stoked
So maybe this can help someone else in the same spot as me.This was all done on ubuntu12.04 wubi

I had this on a touchpad once, never did get it working again.
I'm sure I read somewhere its down to a corruption in the gpu and is pretty bad news.
Would be interesting to hear if you manage to revive it...

Thanks for the reply...I can get it recognized as palm, and qhdload...holding power and volume up I can get the xp computer to see palm novacom bootie in device manager.. and can get webos doctor to start and it either hangs at 0%,8%,or 12% randomly..I know of those fixes but haven't been able to replicate them to do them yet... I also ran tpdebrick and have the info file from that showing a few errors...also ran acmeuninstaller and the screen went to the dual penguins, so that gives me some hope that it'll work... if it was the gpu would the screen work during that process? Any pointers or direction to be headed in let me know...I'll update with any progress...I feel it can be fixed...how can I access SD card thru terminal commands to see the dir.?
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk

Penguin screen from acmeuninstaller...still hope? And I can't get novaterm to connect...I could redo the lvm if I could connect to it...seems like that's where its stuck..thanks in advance..
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk

Hm, seems like you're having a little more luck with yours than I did.
I did pretty much everything you've done and reached a dead end. Now it no longer has the weird screen, just black.
I haven't been able to communicate with it, through adb or novaterm, which seems like the best way to access dirs and internal file structure/partitioning.
Even running ubuntu on a usb stick I couldn't get in...
But you're right, there's cause for hope!

If u still have that TP leave it on the charger for a LONG time and that screen might pop back up...I only have about 30 mins to do stuff to it before its battery is too low again..after about 30 mins the screen just goes black(with backlight) but won't let novacom or novaterm connect until I charge again....
Well I got novaterm to connect...me being stupid forgot to go and hit connect haha..with that I was able to get [email protected] so went here http://forum.xda-developers.com/show thread hop?t=1426244 but the first lvm.static vgscan --ignorelockingfailure comes back with reading all volumes. May take a while... But stops instantly and back at [email protected] with the second lvm.static vgchange.-ay --ignorelockingfailure ...continuing on lvm.static vgcreate -s 8M store /dev/mmcblk0p. Comes back with not an existing volume, unable to add to /Dev/mmcblk0p to volume group"store"
So seeing that tried lvm.static pvcreate /dev/mmcblk0p 14 and got Device dev/mmcblk0p not found( or ignore by filtering) and Device 14 not found or ignored by filtering... Thought I'd keep it all up to date so if this can help me or anyone else ya know...I can get webosdoctor to 8% every time now but that's it..been trying the fixes listed but get stuck at fix_dos_sh.fs not found and the mkdosfs -f 1 -s 64 /dev/store/media comes back with something similar like the store not found.. Just an update
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk

I do still have it, might just stick it on over the next few and see if I can't get somewhere with it.
Looks like you're on the right track anyways, just gotta find that magic formula.
I'll look through the resources I've used when doctoring in the past, see if there's anything I can throw at you but looks like you've got it all covered...
Keep it up!

Ya throw it on...who knows right I'll let ya know if I get it and could help...I just got it past all the lvm commands and everyrhing seemed to take fine..just didn't have enough battery to doctor yet....fingers crossed itll take n show a normal screen when it/if it finishes.
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk

Ok, good luck with that.
Having used tpdebrick, did you look around the original tpdebrick v0.1 thread? Theres a useful discussion throughout, but I think somewhere around p25, but def somewhere between 20-30, there's more specific info about reading/writing partition info and getting a TP stuck in bootie mode to respond.
I tried using the dfu-util cmd mentioned in one post - there was other stuff about logs eetc - which resulted in a brief flash of the lcd - and my hope - but nothing after. Might be worth a look around if you haven't been there already....
Cheers, peace

Great thanks...I haven't read much on the v1 tpdebrick only the v4..I'll look at that today...
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk

OK just an update...still the same, but narrowed it down to missing tokens in the NVRAM mmcblk0p12 block...running java - jar web doctor came back with tokens not found..should have been empty...I can bypass that with meta doctor and now stopping at 12% because of bad volume sizes...getting close I think...
But u were/are correct about the GPU..it is on the same block...I think it is only for the boot...so should be OK...
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk

FIXED!!!! Reran tpdebrick, made meta-doctor to bypass token check as the nvram tokens were missing.. Then reset the partitions and ran the doctor...and success....I can say to ppl that there are a ton of minuet steps that will throw the whole process off if not done from start to finish perfectly...well we can see now that it is recoverable!!! Any help I can offer to anyone let me know here or pm......happy
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk

Wow, amazing man!
I can't even get mine to the psychedleic screen now, just runs thru the tpdebrick process, says All Done!, then nada ...
Not sure I quite understand your first post, but will scrutinise it and see if I can take anything from it.
Well done again!
Peace

[Q] Boostpulse error running CM11 on KFHD 7" (TATE)

Hello All,
Well, today I finally managed to unbrick mt KFHD after about a month or so of using it as a paperweight...Over the course of the last month I made four attempts at making the factory cable myself. Having absolutely zero prior experience and armed with the cheapest piece of crap soldering iron money can buy, my first 3 attempts ended in useless melted messes. Luckily this morning I decided to make one last attempt and I was finally able to pull it off.
Anyways, once I was finally able to get into fastboot mode, I went ahead and just flashed the stock rom and was thrilled to watch my kindle successfully boot up for the first time in over a month. Having finally managed to unbrick my device, I proceeded to do my victory dance around the house. Unfortunately as soon as I sat back down I realized that I had celebrated a little bit too soon. No matter what I tried, I could not get the wifi to turn on. There wasn't even a MAC address listed.
After much searching and many attempts to fix the problem, I cam accross a forum post from someone saying that they had the same issue, and they were only able to fix it after flashing a custom rom...something to do with the mmc0 block or something I dont quite remember. Since without wifi the KFHD is pretty much useless, I figured I had might as well give it a shot. It was a bit of a process, but I was able to flash TWRP and CM11, and now my wifi and basically everything else is working again.
My apologies for the somewhat long back story, but I didn't want to leave out potentially relevant information. The issue I am facing now is this: when logcat is open, anytime I touch the screen I am getting about 40 instances of this error --
06-01 22:40:25.830 E/TI OMAP PowerHAL(535): Error writing to /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpufreq/interactive/boostpulse: No such device
This happens regardless of whether or not I actually have the governor set to interactive. I've done quite a bit of searching to no avail...
Here is some of my system information:
Kernel: 3.0.72+ [email protected] #1
CM Version: 11-20140601-NIGHTLY-tate
Android: 4.2.2
I used No-Frills CPU App to see if changing the governor had any effect, and this information came from the About CPU function of that app..
- file: /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpufreq/interactive/boost:
0
- file: /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpufreq/interactive/boostpulse:
sh: <stdin>[1]: cat: /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpufreq/interactive/boostpulse: Permission denied
- file: /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpufreq/interactive/boostpulse_duration:
80000
Once again, sorry for the long post..anyone who has taken the time to read it, I thank you very much. If anyone has any ideas/suggestions, or even if you could just help me by telling me a little more about what the problem is, it would be very very much appreciated. I haven't had much luck searching :/

I wouldn't worry about it, I see this on Maromi's kernel when I mess with the frequency, I think it is a kernel device that doesn't show up, the file that calls for that sys path probably just needs taking out of the kernel.
Sent from my LG-P769 using Tapatalk

TWRP, eMMC errors, and a lot of questions...

So I have one great Note 4 that runs fine. A second Note 4, given to me appearing to be a paper weight, has been with some effort rescusitated. But no, the eMMC errors have not gone totally.
This "bad" phone, however, is allowing me to fully exercise some of my curiosity. And in the process, no matter what happens, I hope I can get a few more answers about things. I know about the little app that keeps the phone from going to sleep and stablizes it... that works on the phone unless it gets turned off. And then the whole cycle of trying to start it again (the freezer trick, the holding of buttons, the pulling of the battery... sigh).
My latest gambit has been to go into TWRP and reformat /system /data and /cache (the only directories where I'm allowed to do so) to f2fs. In fact, just to really wipe this baby as clean as I possibly could, I reformatted them back to ext4, then back again to f2fs. I then installed a custom rom (the official CM 14.1). It appears to have installed over the top of the f2fs without trouble.
But of course I am freewheeling it here. I do not know very much about what is going on down inside there.
My questions:
1. What "hidden" directories are there that TWRP isn't showing me? Is there any possibility that if I could reformat them (and not destroy the phone) it might help with the eMMC errors? How would I do that if I in fact can?
2. When I reformat the directories from one format to another, am I actually wiping them or not? (I've read long pages about people suggesting that Android phones are terribly hard to actually wipe all data off.)
3. Is there any other possible cause for the eMMC errors than bad physical memory? I understand that bad memory chip *is* one obvious cause... but are there other causes that could in fact kick up an eMMC error that isn't really about the memory chip?
I'll post any other questions if and when I think of them. Worst happens, I mess this phone up so bad it won't reboot at all. I'm not too worried about that.
All thoughts welcome. I can experiment without caring too much.

I have read elsewhere that the problem could be caused by having a micro sd inserted in the phone.

Intensivefire said:
I have read elsewhere that the problem could be caused by having a micro sd inserted in the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I've read that also. Tried all sorts of experiments with and without micro-sd card inserted. Using a Wake Lock app from playstore (set on mid-range) allows the phone to do and be nicely. But shut it off and I have to freeze it for 5 min before it will restart. So... hopefully the Chinese mb card I bought today will actually work. Providing I can in fact open the phone without busting it. (There's some good clues on youtube which is nice.)

shonkin said:
Yes, I've read that also. Tried all sorts of experiments with and without micro-sd card inserted. Using a Wake Lock app from playstore (set on mid-range) allows the phone to do and be nicely. But shut it off and I have to freeze it for 5 min before it will restart. So... hopefully the Chinese mb card I bought today will actually work. Providing I can in fact open the phone without busting it. (There's some good clues on youtube which is nice.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
emmc errors on note 4 is well known hardware failure , its time for you to replace emmc chip or system board

zfk110 said:
emmc errors on note 4 is well known hardware failure , its time for you to replace emmc chip or system board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I said that in my first post. My point was that it is possible other causes for the error message just might exist. But all that is moot now... I did in fact order a new motherboard. But in the meantime, when I went to dissect the phone according to instructions on youtube, I found out too late that the author of said instructions was fairly clueless as far as a successful end result. The phone is dead, dead, dead. Lucky for me, it wasn't my main Note 4, which is just fine.

Here is a 100% hardware fix for this issue that anyone can do with no tools or specia
Here is a 100% hardware fix for this issue that anyone can do with no tools or special equipment.
It really works. Give it a try. ?
https://youtu.be/jLPHWtb0StI

Misreporting Battery?

I recently switched over from CM10.1 to LN14.1 and have been getting misreported battery (it worked fine previously) Specifically, it will drop 15-20% every 10 minutes or so, and stay at 1% for several hours (I've recorded up to ten hours).
What I've tried to fix the issue:
Draining to 0% and recharging to 100% (i.e. manual calibration listed on XDA) on LN14 builds
Battery Calibration Apps recommended on XDA
Flashing down to stock ROM, factory resetting, and re-flashing 14.1 (I read this could restore a battery file that has been affected by repeated flashing of ROMs.)
Flashing back down to CM10.1 and CM10.2 (also tried CM11 and CM12 builds) that I used previously
Wiping DALVIK/Cache between each install
Battery Monitoring Apps (Rooted)
Battery saving/hibernation apps
Adjusting nearly every power consumption option (screen brightness, WiFi, etc.)
The behavior has been the same switching between any ROM of CM, LN, Stock/Factory Reset from the point that I first upgraded from CM10 to LN14.
I don't think it's a lack a capacity and it has to do with misreporting.
I haven't tried recalibrating/draining on CM10 or stock, but I don't know if that would be pointless since I've attempted it three times on LN14 with no success. Also, I don't know if the process causes battery issues long-term. Right now, I'm looking to see if TWRP reports the same battery level as LN14. Last night, I was at 1% for 10 hours or so, including ~3 hours of video trying to discharge.
Anyone have any tips on where to look next? Is this just an issue with LN on HD+ in general? Thanks in advance for any help.

Probably one of your sources of information is this post: https://forum.xda-developers.com/nook-hd/help/nook-hd-battery-issue-custom-rom-fixes-t3389721
We suffered through this issue with an HD for quite awhile and tried all the stuff you mention. It may be that the return to stock/factory reset actually worked but it may also be that we discovered that somehow the SD card we were using for flashing (and which we had remade at some point) had not been properly configured as 0x0c and was instead 0x0b. This eventually led to a tablet that would only boot when plugged in and allowed to sit for a minute before being unplugged. We never got to the battery misbehaving issue at that point because of the panic that ensued over what the %#W% was going on!
Anyway.....once the card was made properly, we started from stock/factory reset (including actually re-registering the tablet with B&N, etc.) and then flashed the CM ROMs. Everything is now fine.
Whew.

nmyshkin said:
Probably one of your sources of information is this post: https://forum.xda-developers.com/nook-hd/help/nook-hd-battery-issue-custom-rom-fixes-t3389721
We suffered through this issue with an HD for quite awhile and tried all the stuff you mention. It may be that the return to stock/factory reset actually worked but it may also be that we discovered that somehow the SD card we were using for flashing (and which we had remade at some point) had not been properly configured as 0x0c and was instead 0x0b. This eventually led to a tablet that would only boot when plugged in and allowed to sit for a minute before being unplugged. We never got to the battery misbehaving issue at that point because of the panic that ensued over what the %#W% was going on!
Anyway.....once the card was made properly, we started from stock/factory reset (including actually re-registering the tablet with B&N, etc.) and then flashed the CM ROMs. Everything is now fine.
Whew.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I checked my SD card and the Partition ID is 0x0b. However, my tablet doesn't have the behavior you described regarding the need to be plugged in to boot.
Are you indicating that it would be worth flashing back down to 2.1.0 Stock ROM/Factory Reset with a 0x0c card, and Registering to attempt to resolve the issue? Would I be required to remain on stock for a period of time or can I re-flash to LN immediately? Thanks in advance for you help, the Partition ID type is news to me.

theleagueofstream said:
I checked my SD card and the Partition ID is 0x0b. However, my tablet doesn't have the behavior you described regarding the need to be plugged in to boot.
Are you indicating that it would be worth flashing back down to 2.1.0 Stock ROM/Factory Reset with a 0x0c card, and Registering to attempt to resolve the issue? Would I be required to remain on stock for a period of time or can I re-flash to LN immediately? Thanks in advance for you help, the Partition ID type is news to me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no expert so my information is anecdotal. I'd never seen the weird behavior like on the HD tablet in all my work with an old Nook Tablet. And I can't pinpoint the battery reporting issue vs. the improper remake of the card. All I know is that at some point I thought there must be something wrong somewhere and decided to make a completely new card. Then the "fun" really began.
The actual correct Partition ID type is 0x0C FAT32 LBA (as shown by Minitool Partition Wizard). This is documented in all (most?) of the instructions for preparing SD cards. I just got sloppy, I guess. It's still difficult to believe that this change made the difference but it did for me, at least in terms of boot. I do think the return to stock is a good idea. It may not be necessary to register (we already had an account from the old days of running stock), but I would do the factory reset and let it sit awhile as the OP suggested (maybe 15 min?). As he said, what's a few minutes if it will save you endless headaches? What do you have to lose?
When I (carefully) prepared my new SD card I used the files provided by @belfastraven, substituting the old version of CWM needed to reflash stock for the one he had. This gave me SD-based TWRP (two different versions) as well as the old CWM. For the life of me I can't relocate that post, but I expect other card recipes will work.
Edit: here we go: https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66086179&postcount=10

nmyshkin said:
I'm no expert so my information is anecdotal. I'd never seen the weird behavior like on the HD tablet in all my work with an old Nook Tablet. And I can't pinpoint the battery reporting issue vs. the improper remake of the card. All I know is that at some point I thought there must be something wrong somewhere and decided to make a completely new card. Then the "fun" really began.
The actual correct Partition ID type is 0x0C FAT32 LBA (as shown by Minitool Partition Wizard). This is documented in all (most?) of the instructions for preparing SD cards. I just got sloppy, I guess. It's still difficult to believe that this change made the difference but it did for me, at least in terms of boot. I do think the return to stock is a good idea. It may not be necessary to register (we already had an account from the old days of running stock), but I would do the factory reset and let it sit awhile as the OP suggested (maybe 15 min?). As he said, what's a few minutes if it will save you endless headaches? What do you have to lose?
When I (carefully) prepared my new SD card I used the files provided by @belfastraven, substituting the old version of CWM needed to reflash stock for the one he had. This gave me SD-based TWRP (two different versions) as well as the old CWM. For the life of me I can't relocate that post, but I expect other card recipes will work.
Edit: here we go: https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66086179&postcount=10
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just flashed down to stock, factory reset and reinstalled 14.1 I set the SD to 0x0C FAT32 LBA. I didn't wait 15 minutes after installing the stock though, just a few minutes (I missed this step and hopefully it doesn't make all the difference.) I'll report the results on usage.
I flashed down to stock with NookHDplus-bootable-CWM-6028-for-stock-BOOTFILES-r4-(05.15.13) posted in a CM10 thread though.

The early indication is that the issue is still the same. I think I'm fighting a losing battle and I'll have to look into replacing the battery or making a regular habit of keeping the tablet plugged in.

theleagueofstream said:
to open the device and/or replace the battery, but it doesn't seem like the device is made for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like most Android devices, not it's not made to be opened up.
But it's doable with care. If you search you can find instructions and videos.
But, 1, I'm non convinced it's a bad battery. You get too much runtime at 1%
And 2, not sure of any good options for replacement batteries. That's why my wife's HD+ doesn't gave a new battery.

ST Dog said:
Like most Android devices, not it's not made to be opened up.
But it's doable with care. If you search you can find instructions and videos.
But, 1, I'm non convinced it's a bad battery. You get too much runtime at 1%
And 2, not sure of any good options for replacement batteries. That's why my wife's HD+ doesn't gave a new battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm considering opening it just for the sake of seeing if there's a bad connection, but I've seen people damaging the case, etc. I agree with your sentiment that the capacity doesn't indicate it's a bad battery. Regardless, I'm grateful for everyone's help here so far.

theleagueofstream said:
but I've seen people damaging the case, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some people just shouldn't work on finiky stuff. I;ve seen people screw up lots of things because they rushed.
Phones and tablets just require time and patience.

ST Dog said:
Some people just shouldn't work on finiky stuff. I;ve seen people screw up lots of things because they rushed.
Phones and tablets just require time and patience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm assuming you've opened a few, so do you recommend a special set of tools? Or is a guitar pick and appropriate screwdriver enough?

theleagueofstream said:
I'm assuming you've opened a few, so do you recommend a special set of tools? Or is a guitar pick and appropriate screwdriver enough?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure on these.
I've got a few plastic spludgers that have been handy with other devices.
This one makes it look easy, but the tape on the bezel is missing.
https://youtu.be/1muVOrhORq8
Also they don't even tape the replacement battery to the back so it might shift around in the case.
This is more like what you'll encounter.
https://youtu.be/HpVrds3g-M8
Note all the double sided tape. You'll​ want to preserve it replace it.

ST Dog said:
Not sure on these.
I've got a few plastic spludgers that have been handy with other devices.
This one makes it look easy, but the tape on the bezel is missing.
https://youtu.be/1muVOrhORq8
Also they don't even tape the replacement battery to the back so it might shift around in the case.
This is more like what you'll encounter.
https://youtu.be/HpVrds3g-M8
Note all the double sided tape. You'll​ want to preserve it replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have any suggestions for a replacement brand?
I found:
https://www.amazon.com/TLP-040-Li-P...d=1510605819&sr=1-4&keywords=nook+hd++battery
but I thought someone with better experience could make a suggestion.

theleagueofstream said:
Do you have any suggestions for a replacement brand?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As I said earlier, no. I'm not confident any of them are any good.
Someone posted a link to the one they got in the other thread.