Related
I managed to fry my kaisers circuits by plugging a 4 AMP car charger into the USB power port.
It only took one second, i smelled the smoke and instantly unplugged the cable, but it was too late.
Surprisingly the device was still powered and functioning, so i didn't freak out. The battery was already dead. after around 30 seconds it died again, i walked back home and tried charging it with mains adapter with no luck.
Next morning, i took my handset to a local electronics repair shop to check it, and i told them the story. they called me back and said the motherboard needs to be replaced. and it would cost me around $470. (and its not covered by manufacturers warranty. ouch!!)
After hours of cursing and smashing my head into the steering wheel, i thought i'll pick it back and try something my self.
the part where the device stayed on even after the smoke came out led me to believe that the board is still fine. and that only the charging port got fried.
the problem is, I don't have a desk charger to charge my battery and test my theory, a disassembly guide would also be very helpful.
if the main mother board was really fried, is there any place that i can buy it from? i did some goggling around with no luck.Anything cheaper than what these guys are asking for would be great, i have a feeling they are trying to rip me off.
If any of you guys can help me out, id be grateful.
hoaxbox said:
I managed to fry my kaisers circuits by plugging a 4 AMP car charger into the USB power port.
It only took one second, i smelled the smoke and instantly unplugged the cable, but it was too late.
Surprisingly the device was still powered and functioning, so i didn't freak out. The battery was already dead. after around 30 seconds it died again, i walked back home and tried charging it with mains adapter with no luck.
Next morning, i took my handset to a local electronics repair shop to check it, and i told them the story. they called me back and said the motherboard needs to be replaced. and it would cost me around $470. (and its not covered by manufacturers warranty. ouch!!)
After hours of cursing and smashing my head into the steering wheel, i thought i'll pick it back and try something my self.
the part where the device stayed on even after the smoke came out led me to believe that the board is still fine. and that only the charging port got fried.
the problem is, I don't have a desk charger to charge my battery and test my theory, a disassembly guide would also be very helpful.
if the main mother board was really fried, is there any place that i can buy it from? i did some goggling around with no luck.Anything cheaper than what these guys are asking for would be great, i have a feeling they are trying to rip me off.
If any of you guys can help me out, id be grateful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a brand new AT&T Tilt ( kaiserII HTC8925) for sale i can sell to you for $375.00 New In the box never been used. PM me if interested.
Sorry I can't help in this matter, but I thought i would post this here rather than start a whole new thread.
I have heard lots of horror stories of in-car chargers frying kaisers. Has anyone got an in-car charger that works?
gary.bannister said:
Sorry I can't help in this matter, but I thought i would post this here rather than start a whole new thread.
I have heard lots of horror stories of in-car chargers frying kaisers. Has anyone got an in-car charger that works?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Order one that is made for the Kaiser...a lot of people are trying to use old chargers just cause the tip is the same.
I got my stuff from PocketSolutions.com
Car chargers that work for the 8525 should work fine for the 8925. It just can't do that "boost" charging feature the Tilt supposedly has.
Bellfazar said:
Car chargers that work for the 8525 should work fine for the 8925. It just can't do that "boost" charging feature the Tilt supposedly has.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmmm.. thats got me scared, cuz im using a razr charger for my tilt. ive used it multiple times with no probs so far...hope its not damaging my phone tho
omaralt said:
hmmm.. thats got me scared, cuz im using a razr charger for my tilt. ive used it multiple times with no probs so far...hope its not damaging my phone tho
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That one won't damage the Kaiser, but it has only half the mA of the proper one. This can sometimes cause problems if the charge level of the battery is very low. For charging from time to time and when battery isn't near empty you will be ok.
Mike
well a quick tip would probably be checking the fuze on your charger, anything below an amp wouldnt do much damage. -.-;
4 amps fried my tilts motherboard, so watch out guys
still looking for a service manual, now that my phone is dead, i want to dissect it,
I'm using a cheapy chinese one made for an Imate Jam if that helps.
Joe
the part of the board responsible for charging is probably what went up in smoke - you probably smelt (smelled?) resistors/capacitors overheating/melting - they said a total mobo replace as that circuitry is probably all on the same board - sure you might be able to replace it yourself but i dunno - might be a bit of a mega mission what with all these micro components around on these sorts of device
fusi said:
the part of the board responsible for charging is probably what went up in smoke - you probably smelt (smelled?) resistors/capacitors overheating/melting - they said a total mobo replace as that circuitry is probably all on the same board - sure you might be able to replace it yourself but i dunno - might be a bit of a mega mission what with all these micro components around on these sorts of device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, these devices now have multilayer boards that make it virtually impossible to do a bit of home soldering/component replacement on.
Bring back the days of my youth when we had valves (tubes in US I believe), they were nice - and kept your hands warm as you soldered away in a freezing garage
Mike
Cracked Open
I opened up the case and unscrewed my way to the burnt part of the board.
thanks to mike and the manual he posted on some other fourm
http://www.modaco.com/content/Pocke...58716/HTC-Service-Manuals-Dismantling-Guides/
This is the main board
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/7447/ks1jj3.jpg
This is the same board from the other side with the burnt IC
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/2717/ks2wi1.jpg
And a close up
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/4416/ks3nv1.jpg
Closer
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/5944/ks4lu6.jpg
Okay now i can at least see where the damage is.
Still stubborn that i am, I did not believe that this IC killed the entire mobo, so i invested in a desk charger for the battery and charged it up fully.
I just tested it now and to my surprise it WORKED!!
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/5070/ks5vj6.jpg
Of course, my joy ride did not last for long as the device started heating up. I switched it back off once i felt the abnormal amount of heat generated.
I tried it again after it cooled down. This time I kept it for around three mins, and again it heated up, at the end of, it just shut it self off. (still heating up).
After that scary little experiment i learned few things:
1- The device motherboard is alive, there is no need to replace the entire board.
2- The burnt IC is probably meant to control the usb port and the power, therefore my usb port is useless at this stage.
3- charging the battery externally wont help much without resolving the heat issue.
I tried to look up diagrams for the devices board and the only thing i could found is this:
http://www.cdmatech.com/download_library/pdf/diagram_msm7200_cs.pdf
which is useless.
Any help would be much appreciated..
cheers
Can anyone help me with this?
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/5944/ks4lu6.jpg
the chip burnt shown in the picture above needs to be replaced on my tytnz mobo.
can anyone give me more details about it or where can i find a replacement, all i could read on it is the (QRA) part, if anyone has a tytn II could you have a closer look, grab me a serial number maybe.
hoaxbox said:
Can anyone help me with this?
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/5944/ks4lu6.jpg
the chip burnt shown in the picture above needs to be replaced on my tytnz mobo.
can anyone give me more details about it or where can i find a replacement, all i could read on it is the (QRA) part, if anyone has a tytn II could you have a closer look, grab me a serial number maybe.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
anyone? lols still waiting btw
am sure most of the kaiser form viewers have a kaiser.
if any of you do can you please check that chip on your device board, i have lost mine and trying to replace it.
check if theres anything written on it, any information about it would be could be helpful.
thanks
Hey guys, I got an email on my nook the other day, and when I picked it up, I didn't realize I still had it plugged into the charger, so I accidentally yanked it and broke the B&N micro SD cable.
I'm running phiremod, so normally this isn't a problem since I can slow-charge from my PC or car adapter.
The only problem is, charging like this only works once you've loaded the CM kernel. If you try to charge from a dead battery, you can't do that!
Right now, my nook color is dead. I can plug it in and I get the "not enough power to turn on, please wait 15 minutes and try again" message.
My question is, is there any way to charge this sucker (from death) without shelling out another $25 for the charger (and all I need is the cable, but they are almost just as much).
I have it plugged into my PC currently, and it has been plugged in for about an hour, but it still won't power on. If I leave it plugged into the B&N charger with a regular microUSB cable (even all night) it won't charge a drop.
Any suggestions?
Edit:
FWIW, my nook DID turn on after about an hour - an hour and a half of charging with 11% battery and continues to charge via the PC with a regular microUSB cable. It takes a while, but it will charge
Its good that it started working again. I know some things need to use an official charger to come from the dead. If you wanted to see if you could make it charge faster, (both from dead and regularly) you could try a different USB to wall adapter with higher wattage/amperage. Think iPad, XOOM, or Atrix (all high power-draw devices) charger...
Sent from my MB860 using XDA App
Higher amperage will help...but the magic is in those extra long connectors on the stock cable..to fast charge you will prolly need to get a new one.
Just a friendly PSA: lithium ion batteries should not be deep discharged.
I'm going to need a new cable pretty soon. The end that plugs into the Nook has been cracking and falling apart. I'm guessing I'd have to get it direct from B&N?
d00med said:
I'm going to need a new cable pretty soon. The end that plugs into the Nook has been cracking and falling apart. I'm guessing I'd have to get it direct from B&N?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Barnes-Noble-No...?pt=US_Tablet_Accessories&hash=item2eb48a16e6
Just wanted to add: I've been able to bypass the low battery screen. Pop in a bootable Clockwork SD, then plug into the power source. If there's enough power you'll get into recovery. Swap back to your usual SD, and select the reboot option from inside recovery. It'll boot straight into the OS, bypassing the low battery warning.
Sent from my Nook Color!
Call B&N tech support and tell them that you have a bad USB cable. I did, and they sent me a new charger+cable within a week, gratis. YMMV.
i got one at best buy $14.95 OEM
The stock B&N charger is 2 amps (or 2000 milliamps) so any charger with less than that will take longer to charge. USB only supplies .5 amps so takes a lot longer to charge.
The ebay link above is a 1 amp charger.
I had the same thing happen to my Nook, and I've been fairly regular at the local brick and mortar B&N the last month or two (1 hour book read and various purchases and stuff).
So I took the cable in and showed it to them. They took that one and handed me a new cable. 'tis my suspicion that it's a fairly common occurrence with the sample units.
Worst you can do is ask.
d00med said:
I'm going to need a new cable pretty soon. The end that plugs into the Nook has been cracking and falling apart. I'm guessing I'd have to get it direct from B&N?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine was doing the same thing. Chunks were falling off the end that plugs into the Nook. I took it into my local store and they simply handed me a new one. Claimed it was the first time they'd seen one like that...
byronczimmer said:
I had the same thing happen to my Nook, and I've been fairly regular at the local brick and mortar B&N the last month or two (1 hour book read and various purchases and stuff).
So I took the cable in and showed it to them. They took that one and handed me a new cable. 'tis my suspicion that it's a fairly common occurrence with the sample units.
Worst you can do is ask.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had a really great experience with brick and mortar bn staff. One guy cracked open a new charger and cord and just said to stop by if evertth wasn't totally fixed. I left and now I even have an extra charger!
BN staff = win!
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA Premium App
Odd, the associate I spoke with said there were issues with some of the cords shipped with the early batches.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA Premium App
RickOSidhe said:
Call B&N tech support and tell them that you have a bad USB cable. I did, and they sent me a new charger+cable within a week, gratis. YMMV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did the same thing and they sent for free no questions asked.
Bought my nook used off craigslist. Called in and got a replacement cable no problem.
cmstlist said:
Just wanted to add: I've been able to bypass the low battery screen. Pop in a bootable Clockwork SD, then plug into the power source. If there's enough power you'll get into recovery. Swap back to your usual SD, and select the reboot option from inside recovery. It'll boot straight into the OS, bypassing the low battery warning.
Sent from my Nook Color!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ive been struggling with this for a few days since this whole battery issues have been going around with the late CM 82 nightlys... well. i wanted to make sure that my nook wasnt toast. (i have 3 and 3 different chargers and cables all OEM all new) so just last night right before the "fix" was merged into nightly 91/93.... ill be damned if i didnt do exactly what you said and managed to suck enuff juice out to boot off SD into recovery... however... i thought problem was solved and i let it sit in recovery (plugged into wall) but had i known what i known now... it WONT charge without the CM kernel installed. Now i think i managed to "brick" an unbrickable device. does this make any sense? im not good with words i guess.. but anyway... there isnt enough juice to even get to the "connect charger screen" hell... i bet most people dont know theres actually ANOTHER "connect your damn charge dummy!!!" screen that comes up after the one that says try again in 15 minutes lol. so ya... been sitting on each of my chargers for at least an hour each hoping to get some juice out ... and its a no go. o well.. i got 2 others... but dammit i had that one JUST the way i wanted it. idk why i even went to .32 kernel... it was a nightmare from first boot. (no i did not revert to stock rom first as i hear is what does the trick)
cmstlist said:
Just wanted to add: I've been able to bypass the low battery screen. Pop in a bootable Clockwork SD, then plug into the power source. If there's enough power you'll get into recovery. Swap back to your usual SD, and select the reboot option from inside recovery. It'll boot straight into the OS, bypassing the low battery warning.
Sent from my Nook Color!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ive been struggling with this for a few days since this whole battery issues have been going around with the late CM 82 nightlys... well. i wanted to make sure that my nook wasnt toast. (i have 3 and 3 different chargers and cables all OEM all new) so just last night right before the "fix" was merged into nightly 91/93.... ill be damned if i didnt do exactly what you said and managed to suck enuff juice out to boot off SD into recovery... however... i thought problem was solved and i let it sit in recovery (plugged into wall) but had i known what i known now... it WONT charge without the CM kernel installed. Now i think i managed to "brick" an unbrickable device. does this make any sense? im not good with words i guess.. but anyway... there isnt enough juice to even get to the "connect charger screen" hell... i bet most people dont know theres actually ANOTHER "connect your damn charge dummy!!!" screen that comes up after the one that says try again in 15 minutes lol. so ya... been sitting on each of my chargers for at least an hour each hoping to get some juice out ... and its a no go. o well.. i got 2 others... but dammit i had that one JUST the way i wanted it. idk why i even went to .32 kernel... it was a nightmare from first boot. (no i did not revert to stock rom first as i hear is what does the trick)
maybe i should post a warning thread to others to MAKE SURE BATTERY DOES NOT DRAIN COMPLETELY OUT BETWEEN WIPING AND FLASHING FIXED rom.... cuz your nook will NOT charge...... side note... does anyone have any suggestions as far as like a higher rated charger that may force a charge or soemthing? im no electrical engineer so if thats sounds dumb... it prob is. lol
Can you damage a device using higher amperage chargers than supplied with the device (i.e. using nook charger at 2 amps to charge cell phone supplied with 0.7 amp charger)?
wbrands said:
Can you damage a device using higher amperage chargers than supplied with the device (i.e. using nook charger at 2 amps to charge cell phone supplied with 0.7 amp charger)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The tip of the Nook charger won't fit into a standard micro-USB port.
But if you plug a standard micro-USB cable into the Nook wall charger piece, I believe the USB power protocol will automatically modulate down to the highest the device can accept.
Hey all,
I've been experimenting with the rear 4-pin connector on the back of the droid 4 (pogo-pins for the inductive charging rear door)
Connected a current limited power supply to Gnd and Vin on the back of my Droid 4 (pin lower right = gnd, pin lower left = Vin) at 5.0V and I had charging occurring at a nice speedy rate. Screen showed charging, amperage was around 1500mA to start scaling down to 1300mA-1100mA as it reached full charge. It seems to pass through the Lithium Ion battery management circuity so appears to be a safe way to dump in lots of power. Obviously these pins are designed to pick up power from the rear inductive charging cover that Motorola produced, but I wanted to try just pure 5.0V power. It appears that it is not bypassing or defeating the battery temp/overcharging safety circuit but of course test at your own will in a safe environment. I personally noted that if the battery was 'warm' the charge rate was reduced to avoid overtemp. Also it would scale down as the on-screen-indicator showed it was reaching full charge.
I’m thinking of grabbing some extra rear covers and making up some drop-in charging stations or alternative inputs (like solar/etc.)
Nice to get away from having to charge on the USB Micro connector which appears to limit charging current and cause wear-and-tear.
This seems like a VERY good thing if someone was building an external battery pack that fit onto the phone (like the one for the iPhone)…you could power it on, charge via this connector, and shut it down whenever you liked. The power draw on the phone drops off massively once it is charged so if you started with a full charge, it could float the battery all the way to empty.
Time to experiment! My first build will likely be a drop-in docking station.
Again, for reference:
Bottom right (when viewing back, camera at the top):
Gnd is Lower Right – Nearest the microUSB connector
Vin is Lower Left – Opposite side from Gnd on the bottom row
Don’t hit it with too much voltage! I limited myself to about 4.8V and 1700mA max. I'd expect over-voltage on these pins could damage the battery management circuity and fry the phone. I was using a good regulated supply with meters.
Cheers,
This is awesome, thanks for this! Might have to play with a cover and done batteries at some point... Please let us all know how your experiments go!
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using xda app-developers app
I like the idea of an expanded battery very useful.
I have a small solar cell + battery to charge my phone by USB already.
That is bad ass. Post some pics of your first prototype
Sent from my DROID4 using xda premium
Great news, thanks for your time, man.
Just wondering but do you know what the other 2 pins are for?
I got one with a broken usb port for parts and am now wondering if I could use this to build a fix.
Most any (not all) Li-ion battery is rated for at least a 1C charge rate. So with a 1785 mAh Li-ion battery you should be able to safely charge at 1785 mA. The trade off is the faster you charge it the more you reduce overall battery life. For example (not real numbers) if the expected life of the battery is 500 charges (a charge is the amount of current to charge the battery from it's nominal voltage to fully charged and has no correlation to how many times you plug it into a charger) then charging it at 0.75C might increase it's life significantly to 750 to 1000 charges.
Note: the stock wall wart is speced at 850 mA at 5.1 V output (very odd that voltage...).
Brandon314159 said:
Nice to get away from having to charge on the USB Micro connector which appears to limit charging current and cause wear-and-tear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More likely it's the power supply. Most all PC usb ports put out 500 mA at 5.0 V. Most (USB) wall warts are rated at 1000 mA at 5.0 V.
What has me worried is that the phone appears to overcharge the battery to something like 4.317 V or even 4.351 V... I'm hoping this is just an error in the phone/app voltage reporting, but then again it could just be the way they get that 1785 mAh capacity from the battery. Overcharging the battery in this way could well be safe and would have the effect of increasing it's capacity, but it will significantly reduce it's life as well. You would not expect a Li-ion battery to be charged over 4.2 V and preferably something like 4.17 V
Can you use those pins to directly measure the battery voltage? I was going to measure mine directly to compare with Battery Monitor Widget reporting but decided I didn't want to remove the sticker from the back of the battery and I couldn't get a reading from the push pin contacts.
Quick7135 said:
What has me worried is that the phone appears to overcharge the battery to something like 4.317 V or even 4.351 V... I'm hoping this is just an error in the phone/app voltage reporting, but then again it could just be the way they get that 1785 mAh capacity from the battery. Overcharging the battery in this way could well be safe and would have the effect of increasing it's capacity, but it will significantly reduce it's life as well. You would not expect a Li-ion battery to be charged over 4.2 V and preferably something like 4.17 V
Can you use those pins to directly measure the battery voltage? I was going to measure mine directly to compare with Battery Monitor Widget reporting but decided I didn't want to remove the sticker from the back of the battery and I couldn't get a reading from the push pin contacts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
- You cannot use those pins to measure battery voltage as they are an input to the charger... IE they do not tie directly to the battery. You would have to watch the battery voltage at the screws for the battery flex-cable mount.
- There are lots of notes about the battery voltage being 'high' by peoples viewpoints. If you search around, someone explains the difference in chemistry that the Droid 4 is using and that it does have a higher Vmax during bulk/absorption charge levels. I believe the summary was that it is a non-issue. They aren't trying to 'cheat' the battery into higher voltage for more cap...it's just simply how that chemistry wants to be charged. You'll have to google around to find it.
I am curious to see what sort of 'external' packs I can come up with and likely would limit my charging rate to 1200mA or so just to keep things 'happy'. I got slapped pretty hard over at droidforums by an admin and my post removed for this same info...glad to see the community here is more accepting of my discoveries. :cyclops:
-Also, the other two pins are data lines...not sure if In/out compatible but one is Batt Temp and the other is Communication (for determining battery type). The phone doesn't like having these pins futzed with (can cause reboots/lockups) so there is clearly something on the other end...but sounds like the protection is weak regarding input into the processor/etc.
Once I have my phone near a camera, I will photo my connection method/mods (no direct soldering in-case I have to warranty the phone for other issues). That gave me 6" pigtails of wire that I have hiding behind my cheap-o case right now waiting for proper connections (I exited through the speaker hole on the stock back cover).
Brandon314159 said:
I am curious to see what sort of 'external' packs I can come up with and likely would limit my charging rate to 1200mA or so just to keep things 'happy'. I got slapped pretty hard over at droidforums by an admin and my post removed for this same info...glad to see the community here is more accepting of my discoveries. :cyclops:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
which mod did this to u? what reason did he give to do that to u? just want to know... cuz that sounds really uncool
myfishbear said:
which mod did this to u? what reason did he give to do that to u? just want to know... cuz that sounds really uncool
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't wanna get anyone in trouble or piss peeps off. PM me if ya want more details.
It was pretty uncool, all things considered.
Oh well, happier here already!
you know what u should add is a resistor and a on/off toggle for safety
Brandon314159 said:
- You cannot use those pins to measure battery voltage as they are an input to the charger... IE they do not tie directly to the battery. You would have to watch the battery voltage at the screws for the battery flex-cable mount.
- There are lots of notes about the battery voltage being 'high' by peoples viewpoints. If you search around, someone explains the difference in chemistry that the Droid 4 is using and that it does have a higher Vmax during bulk/absorption charge levels. I believe the summary was that it is a non-issue. They aren't trying to 'cheat' the battery into higher voltage for more cap...it's just simply how that chemistry wants to be charged. You'll have to google around to find it.
I am curious to see what sort of 'external' packs I can come up with and likely would limit my charging rate to 1200mA or so just to keep things 'happy'. I got slapped pretty hard over at droidforums by an admin and my post removed for this same info...glad to see the community here is more accepting of my discoveries. :cyclops:
-Also, the other two pins are data lines...not sure if In/out compatible but one is Batt Temp and the other is Communication (for determining battery type). The phone doesn't like having these pins futzed with (can cause reboots/lockups) so there is clearly something on the other end...but sounds like the protection is weak regarding input into the processor/etc.
Once I have my phone near a camera, I will photo my connection method/mods (no direct soldering in-case I have to warranty the phone for other issues). That gave me 6" pigtails of wire that I have hiding behind my cheap-o case right now waiting for proper connections (I exited through the speaker hole on the stock back cover).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very excited to see those photos. I can't imagine your post getting removed for that sort of information, that is a shame... Hardware mods are just as much fun as software mods, imho! Plus, they have the added bonus that there is a slight risk of explosion, something I err, enjoy
Brandon314159 said:
- You would have to watch the battery voltage at the screws for the battery flex-cable mount.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Drat. I really didn't want to peal off the sticker... heh, maybe I could just punch through it with the needle probes and only leave 2 tiny holes .
There are lots of notes about the battery voltage being 'high' by peoples viewpoints. If you search around, someone explains the difference in chemistry that the Droid 4 is using and that it does have a higher Vmax during bulk/absorption charge levels. I believe the summary was that it is a non-issue. They aren't trying to 'cheat' the battery into higher voltage for more cap...it's just simply how that chemistry wants to be charged. You'll have to google around to find it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done a lot of googling and failed. I'm skeptical that I can't find any "new Li-ion chemistry". The only thing I did find was a pointer to an Anandtech article where the writer said he "heard" they were using a "new Li-ion chemistry" ... with no references or cites. In any event I agree it is mostly a non-issue for most everyone else. I figure they have it all designed for some target duty cycle -- probably about 1 year? maybe 2? Thing is, I plan to keep my phone for 4 or more years like all my past smart phones. The difference this time is that the battery is non-removeable (yes, I know it can be done with tools and some risk). I was hoping to find an app that would interface with the battery management and allow a configurable threshold for the "fully charged" cutoff. With a charging cutoff at about 90% I should be able to triple the life of my battery.
sigh... sorry for the hijack (but there isn't much on the actually battery operation, even around here).
Quick7135 said:
I was hoping to find an app that would interface with the battery management and allow a configurable threshold for the "fully charged" cutoff. With a charging cutoff at about 90% I should be able to triple the life of my battery.
sigh... sorry for the hijack (but there isn't much on the actually battery operation, even around here).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
drain the phone and charge it up in charging mode with the stock charger. this will calibrate your battery so it will charge to 100%
myfishbear said:
drain the phone and charge it up in charging mode with the stock charger. this will calibrate your battery so it will charge to 100%
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He wants to make it so it ONLY takes charges to 90%, to extend the duty cycle of the battery. Honestly, I would just not worry about it, and replace the battery as necessary.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda app-developers app
I put my reply over on this thread that you created, which seems to be more on-topic:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1856514
Cheers!
podspi said:
He wants to make it so it ONLY takes charges to 90%, to extend the duty cycle of the battery. Honestly, I would just not worry about it, and replace the battery as necessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're probably right but I'm not clear on the risks of damage to the hardware when prying out the non-replaceable battery.
Brandon314159 said:
I put my reply over on this thread that you created, which seems to be more on-topic:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1856514
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Thanks. and I do apologize (again) for the interruption here. It won't happen again.
Quick7135 said:
You're probably right but I'm not clear on the risks of damage to the hardware when prying out the non-replaceable battery.
Thanks. and I do apologize (again) for the interruption here. It won't happen again.
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I'd think you'd be at higher risk of damage playing with the software/firmware interface that controls battery charging than doing an actual battery swap.
It appears to be pretty easy: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Droid-4-Teardown/7759/1
No worries on cross posting...just figured better to keep it all over there where there is already a few replies on-topic.
Cheers,
BTW noticed today that the phone says "Charging - Connected to an inductive charging mat" when you connect up power to the back.
I will try to get a shot of the connection when I get home.
My USB port broke... would you think this would charge a completely dead battery.. thank you kindly for your time...
update this will charge a completely dead battery... took an OEM charger cut it open used the red and black... worked perfectly...
why do they call it common sense when only a few people have it...
This issue should be taken a lot more seriously when Google/LG are touting wireless charging as a feature. This device gets pretty hot when charging wirelessly. Please comment if you're also having this issue. I feel like it is grossly underreported compared to the cracked glass, sound in speaker, etc. (Probably because not a lot of people have inductive chargers yet).
P.S. I'm using the Energizer single spot charger.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
My phones have always gotten warm while charging without inductive. This one I would imagine might be a little more pronounced since glass does conduct heat much better than plastic. Just the nature of inductive charging I would imagine would create more heat on top of that.
Welcome to the world of physics.
I use the LG WCP-700 Qi charger and my phone does get warm but not hot by any means. Definitely not warm enough to worry.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda premium
I am using the energizer charger and while my phone gets warm, it is noting I am concerned about.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
Where there is energy, there is heat.
Does the inductive charger generate heat?
If so then it's just an additive effect, especially that most chargers being used unlike the still MIA charging orb (GOOGLE!!! GRrrr) cover up the entire back of the N4 and prevent any ventilation.
Energy cannot be created or destroyed. Ijs
Furthermore and piggybacking off an earlier post regarding glass conductivity, I've refrained from purchasing the inductive chargers that are currently on the market. I haven't thoroughly done any research about the glass of the N4, but the inductive charging kits typically are used concurrently with a device appropriate sleeve. In that sleeve is the inductor and terminations to the devices power port. That sleeve can be wrapped in glass or plastic and most likely it takes the brunt of the energy (power charging) sparring the device. All that being said, I personally don't know the standards if any for power output, but it has to be enough to send energy through the sleeve to the device at a rate comparable to traditional charging methods. So if people are reporting the glass on their N4 cracking because of inductive charging, it's plausible reason is the charger is overrated/phone material is underrated. BTW, that may be a reason why Google hasn't marketed the infamous charging orb we all have seen.
That's just my theory/opinion. Unfortunately I don't care enough to do that research on those gadgets, but interested in what others find.
Sent from my N4 using Tapatalk 2
*Stock*Unrooted*4.2.1*OG LL3*
SBGS-FTW said:
Energy cannot be created or destroyed. Ijs
Furthermore and piggybacking off an earlier post regarding glass conductivity, I've refrained from purchasing the inductive chargers that are currently on the market. I haven't thoroughly done any research about the glass of the N4, but the inductive charging kits typically are used concurrently with a device appropriate sleeve. In that sleeve is the inductor and terminations to the devices power port. That sleeve can be wrapped in glass or plastic and most likely it takes the brunt of the energy (power charging) sparring the device. All that being said, I personally don't know the standards if any for power output, but it has to be enough to send energy through the sleeve to the device at a rate comparable to traditional charging methods. So if people are reporting the glass on their N4 cracking because of inductive charging, it's plausible reason is the charger is overrated/phone material is underrated. BTW, that may be a reason why Google hasn't marketed the infamous charging orb we all have seen.
That's just my theory/opinion. Unfortunately I don't care enough to do that research on those gadgets, but interested in what others find.
Sent from my N4 using Tapatalk 2
*Stock*Unrooted*4.2.1*OG LL3*
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Nexus 4 is qi compliant...as the lg charger and the energizer one ... That mean that they are fully compatible together and they all respect qi regulation standard...
Sent from my Nexus 10 using xda app-developers app
I wonder if placing four small rubber bumpers on the wireless chargers face plate, and then place the phone on the bumpers may act as an air gap between the charger and the phone, perhaps help in cooling?
320flyboy320 said:
I wonder if placing four small rubber bumpers on the wireless chargers face plate, and then place the phone on the bumpers may act as an air gap between the charger and the phone, perhaps help in cooling?
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I mentioned this in another post somewhere, but I have the LG WCP-700 and have one of those square grippy dashboard mats on top of it. Mainly to keep the phone from sliding, but I did notice that it does charge cooler than when I didn't have it on there.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda premium
I originally bought a Zens inductive charger, it was nice but had this feature where it turned off when it was done charging and then turned right back on again. Basically when the phone was charged it would go through this cycle a couple of times a minute which was pretty annoying with the notifications windows that would open on the phone.
So, I bought the LG unit to compare. And the LG unit doesn't have that issue, and it does get warm (though not hot).
But...
I can't tell if the unit just stays on or not. The green light is flashing which I *assume* means it is charging. Even when the phone is charged.
Is that your experience too?
Has anyone tried using the inductive charger with the bumper case on? Does it work and does the small gap help at all?
sent from my perfect 32GB Nexus 7
d_phekt said:
I use the LG WCP-700 Qi charger and my phone does get warm but not hot by any means. Definitely not warm enough to worry.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda premium
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Same here... My phone never gets hot unless I'm gaming hardcore or running benchmarks(which I don't do often) so I have the LG charger too so maybe it's the brand of charger or a problem with the charger itself?
Using the Maxell air voltage wireless mat and the intended phone getd no hotter than when plugged into the mains
Sent by Galaxy Note
Overheated!!!!
Duuuuuuuuuuuuude,
I saw your post and HAD to reply. I have been experiencing the SAME issues!! Phone gets QUITE warm and even HOT while charging wirelessly!!
THIS MORNING I awoke to find my screen a mess of grey and yellow shît!! I got pretty worried so I powered it off... Upon powering it on again, the screen was light grey and washed out, and flickering slightly... As it booted and returned to the home screen, everything in terms of color went back to normal...
I called Google Play this morning (At around 07:30) and the guy was NO help at all. I'm going to call again later to see if I can get someone with a brain (trust me, the guy was not helpful AT ALL, and went as far as to make fun of Indian accents LoL, moron. He thought I said that I was in India, but said it didn't sound like it. I replied "I'm not, but I could be". He then proceeded to say "No, I'm am not in India" with a mocking Indian accent, to which I replied "Well my girlfriend is LoL").
Anyway, using Wireless Charger LG WCP-700 (The "Verizon" wireless charging pad).
I'm contemplating a factory reset... although I HATE the idea of having to back everything up and restore...
I'll post back when/if I have more information...
A-Squared said:
Duuuuuuuuuuuuude,
I saw your post and HAD to reply. I have been experiencing the SAME issues!! Phone gets QUITE warm and even HOT while charging wirelessly!!
THIS MORNING I awoke to find my screen a mess of grey and yellow shît!! I got pretty worried so I powered it off... Upon powering it on again, the screen was light grey and washed out, and flickering slightly... As it booted and returned to the home screen, everything in terms of color went back to normal...
I called Google Play this morning (At around 07:30) and the guy was NO help at all. I'm going to call again later to see if I can get someone with a brain (trust me, the guy was not helpful AT ALL, and went as far as to make fun of Indian accents LoL, moron. He thought I said that I was in India, but said it didn't sound like it. I replied "I'm not, but I could be". He then proceeded to say "No, I'm am not in India" with a mocking Indian accent, to which I replied "Well my girlfriend is LoL").
Anyway, using Wireless Charger LG WCP-700 (The "Verizon" wireless charging pad).
I'm contemplating a factory reset... although I HATE the idea of having to back everything up and restore...
I'll post back when/if I have more information...
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Yeah, racism will totally help you get a new phone.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using xda premium
LoL...
bfspider said:
Welcome to the world of physics.
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Really? Nooooooooooooooooooooo. Surely you MUST be joking?? Physics?? You mean that's how my electric toothbrush has been charging wirelessly since I was 10 too?? Dude... I am floored.
Helpful reply you posted there...
I'm not sure we care about "physics" here per se, I think we care more about finding out why our phones are charging 5-8*C hotter wirelessly than wired... I also think that we're more interested in resolving the problem of waking up to find a phone that has CRASHED due to overheating while wireless charging. And MAYBE (bear with me, I know this is a stretch), maybe we're more interested in getting replies from other people that have had similar experiences than we are in being welcomed to the world of physics... I think we might be more interested in getting posts that provide insight into the problem reported by the initial poster. I know, I know, I'm grasping at straws here... B-Fields, induction, inductive loops, conversion losses, and the MANY related topics are very interesting (really they are, I studied engineering and am fascinated by these things)... It would be nice if you could actually contribute something to the thread. Otherwise, why bother posting? Beats me... what do I know.
---------- Post added at 09:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:03 AM ----------
redthunda69 said:
Yeah, racism will totally help you get a new phone.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using xda premium
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Hey Ace, it was the Google phone rep that made the racist remark. My girlfriend is Indian, and I would never have made a disparaging remark like that to total stranger. You don't even make any sense dude. Maybe I should edit my post to make it clearer.
How about you learn how to read before slinging accusations . Why would I come on here to post racist remarks?? I came here looking for information and with a desire to contribute information so that we might better understand the problem... I'm currently on my second call with Google and will report anything noteworthy after the call...
---------- Post added at 09:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:09 AM ----------
Second called to Google Play Device Support (shortened version):
Me: Phone charges at 32-34*C with USB, rises to 39-40*C when charging wirelessly AND charges more slowly. This morning I awoke to a crashed phone and had to power cycle it, plus the display was washed out grey until the home screen appeared.
Rep: Maybe the charger is the problem.
Me: I have TWO chargers, both give me the same problem. Also, the WCP-700 was submitted to the FCC on August 23rd for certification along with the Nexus 4. They were tested together...
Rep: Maybe the charger is not compatible.
Me: The charger is Qi compliant and it's made by LG , the phone is also Qi compliant, so it IS/SHOULD BE compatible.Additionally I have read posts from other users that report NO problems with wireless charging with the same Nexus 4 and WCP-700.
Rep: Well we support the phone not the charger, you should call LG
And that's what I got out of my second call to Google Play Support...
Next: Calling LG...
A-Squared said:
Phone charges at 32-34*C with USB, rises to 39-40*C when charging wirelessly AND charges more slowly
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I think longer charge times are a given with inductive charging as it is not 100% efficient transfer of current. Guessing that the current that is not transfered in that less than 100% process is given off in heat. In any event, 40°C isn't very hot, and I can't imagine that temp was responsible for what you woke up to.
Is it possible that something else is going on?
Temps...
Solutions Etcetera said:
I think longer charge times are a given with inductive charging as it is not 100% efficient transfer of current. Guessing that the current that is not transfered in that less than 100% process is given off in heat. In any event, 40°C isn't very hot, and I can't imagine that temp was responsible for what you woke up to.
Is it possible that something else is going on?
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Hi there! Thanks for your reply.
I think what you're saying is very plausible, and I would agree in general (that induction incurs losses). BUT, there is evidence from people posting that wireless charging works as fast as USB charging does for them. My Aunt & Uncle have Galaxy S III's that they use with this WCP-700 Wireless Charging Pad, and their phones charge just as fast wirelessly . It IS possible of course that the Nexus 4 might charge more slowly... This is definitely what I have observed, but I don't think it's "normal" due to the substantially higher temps :-/.
Honestly I have to disagree with you on the temperature thing... I think 40*C (104*F) is pretty high. It's not insanely high, but it's high enough that I wouldn't want the phone to be exposed to those temperatures every time it's charged, weeks, months and eventually a year or two... Heat is the "enemy" of batteries and electronics in general. It's high enough to be uncomfortable to hold (e.g. back glass pressed against my face at 40*C). I've had several phones (SonyEricsson P910 & T30, HTC Sensation, HTC Amaze, iPhone 4S and 5 for work) and I don't recall any of these phones ever getting this hot while charging normally (USB of course).
40*C is ~20% higher than my average USB charging temps, and I don't feel that a 20% increase can be accounted for by induction losses.
I'm going to stream Netflix to get my battery down to 40-50% and then throw it on the wireless plate and see how high the temps go... If some of the users that are having success with wireless charging, maybe they could post their battery temps for comparison?
NOW that I'm looking back at my battery temperature history, I see that the temperature went from 32.2*C to 46.3*C on the 26th of November from about 13:00 to 14:00 which was a Monday and I probably had it on the Wireless Charging plate... 46*C is insane for a phone, so I definitely think something is screwy...
I'll report back with the results of dropping it to 40-50% and back to 100% (or as close as possible) with the wireless charger...
---------- Post added at 12:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:09 PM ----------
Solutions Etcetera said:
I think longer charge times are a given with inductive charging as it is not 100% efficient transfer of current. Guessing that the current that is not transfered in that less than 100% process is given off in heat. In any event, 40°C isn't very hot, and I can't imagine that temp was responsible for what you woke up to.
Is it possible that something else is going on?
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"and I can't imagine that temp was responsible for what you woke up to."
Honestly, I think it's related. I haven't seen that behavior at any other point in time... I've had navigation going, music streaming at the same time, bunches of apps open in the background, phone calls, Netflix, taking photos... and the phone has been perfectly stable, not a single crash. The only time I ever found the phone unresponsive and quite frankly looking like shît was this morning after a wireless charge ...
My dock has been charging my phone perfectly for weeks, the other day I came in and plopped the phone on the dock and nothing.
I checked the pogo pins (of the dock) with a multimeter, they are working. I've tried different power sources for the dock as well (wall adapter, pc, other cables).
I've checked to make sure the pins are making contact with the phone, good solid contact.
I haven't changed anything on the phone recently, any suggestions?
The phone charges fine through USB.
[ANSWERED]
since i apparently posted this on the apple forums instead of xda, all the replies were "shoulda bought apple products"
so anyone having this problem, i solved it by reinstalling a nand backup. apparently it was a software issue. hopefully this saves you from the apple fanboys.
do you have original sony cradle? i had chinese replica and it did not work all times.
glukasil said:
do you have original sony cradle? i had chinese replica and it did not work all times.
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No, I was too impatient for it and got the goosewhite dock, besides I like the looks of it better tbh. The dock is putting out power, I don't get why it's not charging. its not a complex system at all.
Get the Sony one if you don't want the same issue occurring.
Sent from my C6603 using xda premium
why would changing the dock have anything to do with the problem? when voltage is applied to the pogo pins, the phone does not charge. how would changing the dock i use make a difference in that at all?
i would understand if the pogo pins were putting out less power or no power, but they put in exactly the amount of power going into the dock, they make good solid contact, i've check continuity and its making a solid connection...
Then take the dock apart and see if anything got loose
Sent from my C6603 using xda premium
Rajinn said:
why would changing the dock have anything to do with the problem?
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Because the one you've bought is rubbish!
I brought this as an alternative to the Sony DK26 because I was sick of opening the flap everytime I wanted to charge my phone. It does fit the Xperia Z and looks nice enough. It also activates the dock mode and the Xperia's smart connect function. This is why I gave it 1 star. HOWEVER, it outputs at 500mA as opposed to the 1800mA delivered by the Sony dock. This means it charges your phone incredibly slowly. I had my phone on the dock charging for 11 Hours and it managed to deliver a battery charge of just 51% which is ridiculous compared to the Sony charger which delivers a 100% charge in 2 hours.
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- Review
XperienceD said:
Because the one you've bought is rubbish!
- Review
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+1
I do not get why would anyone go for something cheaper and unreliable. Its like those iPhone users buying cheap non original cables to charge their iPhones, ended up causing the phone to blow up or messed up and blames it on Apple.
and yes you are the owner of the phone and you have the right to buy whatever 3rd party equipment for your phone, but dont expect it to work 100%.
Doesnt make sense if you ask me sir.
It is really hard to determine the main cause of this matter. It could be your phone: hardware or software (i doubt it is this one), or the 3rd party dock.
You tell me which one to throw and buy a new one.
Already told you why I bought it. There's nothing but stupidity in that review as docks do not put out power, they transfer it, the power supply puts out power. As for the amperage, it puts out what you put in. it will do [email protected] if you are stupid enough to put that through it... Assuming the wires don't burn. if you are going to base your assumptions on a review, at least choose one from someone knowledgeable. also, my dock never took 11 hours to charge, not that i ever bothered timing it but it sure as hell wasnt more than 4 hours (and thats giving an a good bit of a safety margin), i'd guess 2 hours 0-100 if i had to.
What I'm telling you is that the phone is not accepting the charge, not that the dock is messed up but the phone. And I wanted to know if anyone had similar issues or suggestions.
I'm glad you have insight on the matter and an opinion, however you are not trying to answer the question. I've already informed you the dock is intact and making a connection. I've checked the voltage of the xperia official charger at the cable at its end: 4v dc, the dock when hooked to that charger is 4v dc tested at the pins. I can put a larger amount through it, and any number of amps. A pogo dock is a very simple device, official or otherwise, the difference is mainly in price and design. The diy thread is a perfect example of that.
@LitoNi
I took it apart, nothing is loose. thanks
Rajinn said:
I'm glad you have insight on the matter and an opinion, however you are not trying to answer the question.
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It's been answered, you've not bought an official product, that's the problem! Buy cheap unofficial batteries, expect issues, buy cheap replica SD Cards, expect issues, buy cheap unofficial chargers, expect issues, and looks like you can cheap docs to that list too.
XperienceD, please continue answering me with your infinite wisdom you learned from the internet. obviously you know everything about electronics.
btw fixed it, reinstalled my nand backup. software problem ftl.
didnt know this was an apple forum.
Rajinn said:
XperienceD, please continue answering me with your infinite wisdom you learned from the internet. obviously you know everything about electronics.
btw fixed it, reinstalled my nand backup. software problem ftl.
didnt know this was an apple forum.
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Have same dock and same issue sometimes it doesn't want to charge but I just simply put it out and in and it works after reinserting.
[email protected]
Rajinn said:
XperienceD, please continue answering me with your infinite wisdom you learned from the internet. obviously you know everything about electronics.
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I'm sharing what some of us have learned here, cheap non official products give issues, accept it or don't.
From me to you.