Related
Original posts here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=52559
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I tried to Hard Reset my XDA IIi as one day right half of the screen was not responding to stylus. Now major problem as it is stuck on Align screen. Tried many times to hard reboot it but the same problem. Then I drained both batteries but the problem is there. Now I tried starting it up while pressing at the same time power button, action button and soft reset button. I am getting a dimmed screen which says Serial and at the bottom v1.01 nothingelse.
It synchronises with my PC and I can see the files are there but no idea as to why it will not start.
HELP, PLEASE!
upsbsh
Location: UK
Device(s): XDA IIi 1.60.50
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Most strange death of XDA IIi
Also some other reports on other models:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?p=285578&highlight=#285578
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=50142&highlight=align
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=48540&highlight=align
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=27054&highlight=align
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=37570&highlight=align
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=5548&highlight=align
Hang on... You put your device into bootloader mode, docked it and it synced ok and let you see your files? That doesn't sound right at all. When I put my Alpine into bootloader mode (when I was updating the Radio firmware once upon a time) once the phone was in bootloader mode (with the plain black Version 1.01 text on a blank screen) I couldn't sync my device or see any of the files held in RAM, so it sounds like there's really something wrong with your unit.
Have you tried (re)installing the same version of firmware, see if that does the job? It sounds like a deep-rooted software issue....
well, in bootloader mode, nothing to see of course. however, while stuck in the dead-loop of 'aligh screen', synchroniser still works and you can see everything inside! strange!!! beats me.
i tried before to detach the battery for a few hours so as to drain the backup battery. it didn't work for me. shall post again if it works for me if i leave it longer...
i reloaded 1.11.162 and 1.11.172 rom rom o2 and also the o2-stripped version with 1.04 radio, respectively, but none worked...
don't know if wm5 would help, but it's not available for IIi.
:evil:
Beginning to sound like you have a hardware fault then, if you've tried multiple different firmwares on fresh installs... Is the device still in warranty?
christopherwoods said:
Beginning to sound like you have a hardware fault then, if you've tried multiple different firmwares on fresh installs... Is the device still in warranty?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
had the same problem before..located the problem..and guess what..the screen is screwed..your only remedy is to replace the screen..damn costly as well..or dump the pda and get a new one ...
christopherwoods said:
Beginning to sound like you have a hardware fault then, if you've tried multiple different firmwares on fresh installs... Is the device still in warranty?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
had the same problem before..located the problem..and guess what..the screen is screwed..your only remedy is to replace the screen..damn costly as well..or dump the pda and get a new one ...
dvng said:
had the same problem before..located the problem..and guess what..the screen is screwed..your only remedy is to replace the screen..damn costly as well..or dump the pda and get a new one ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, an insightful technical answer there then....and it's also a wrong one.
The failure of the digitiser overlay could be down to foreign objects stuck between the screen and the casing rim ( crumbs, solid dust etc etc), or warping / damage to the pressure sensitive overlay - look for scratches or 'puddle' areas on the screen that *look* like water between the sections - these are where the overlay is touching the digitiser glass and if this happens then the screen cannot calibrate as the pressure is not uniform. Heat can also warp the plastic overlay. Or, the connection between the overlay ribbon and screen ribbon could have become loose / broken.
In all instances if the digitiser is damaged you do NOT need an entire screen if the display is still working - you need to open the phone, remove the digitiser frame from the LCD assembly, source a new one and solder back on.
Digitisers are about £35 or so when they come up on ebay, I source mine from PDA's with broken LCD's - if you cannot get the exact type most of a similar size can be made to work - there are only 4 connections.
Now it may be difficult for the novice to do or hard to find a digitiser, but a 'new screen' is NOT the only option in this case just becuase *you* cannot do it or hadn't thought of it.
Richard.
Interesting that, because on my PDA I had that "water" effect in the centre of the screen (where I just bunged my Alpine in my pocket, and it got pushed against my thigh) - I put a screen cover on mine, and it seems to have solved the problem - it must be the even amount of surface tension applied across the top screen surface which has gradually pulled it away from the digitiser overlay layer, solving the problem.
I never had any accuracy problems anyway, and I succesfully realigned my screen a few times (just because I like tweaking) to see if it made a difference with the screen making contact with the digitiser overlay, and it always worked fine - but buying a £5 screen protector and seeing if that makes a difference could be a cheaper alternative to getting a new digitiser overlay.
[edit] Woop! 200th post. Time to crack open a beer [/edit]
fluffcat1 said:
dvng said:
had the same problem before..located the problem..and guess what..the screen is screwed..your only remedy is to replace the screen..damn costly as well..or dump the pda and get a new one ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, an insightful technical answer there then....and it's also a wrong one.
The failure of the digitiser overlay could be down to foreign objects stuck between the screen and the casing rim ( crumbs, solid dust etc etc), or warping / damage to the pressure sensitive overlay - look for scratches or 'puddle' areas on the screen that *look* like water between the sections - these are where the overlay is touching the digitiser glass and if this happens then the screen cannot calibrate as the pressure is not uniform. Heat can also warp the plastic overlay. Or, the connection between the overlay ribbon and screen ribbon could have become loose / broken.
In all instances if the digitiser is damaged you do NOT need an entire screen if the display is still working - you need to open the phone, remove the digitiser frame from the LCD assembly, source a new one and solder back on.
Digitisers are about £35 or so when they come up on ebay, I source mine from PDA's with broken LCD's - if you cannot get the exact type most of a similar size can be made to work - there are only 4 connections.
Now it may be difficult for the novice to do or hard to find a digitiser, but a 'new screen' is NOT the only option in this case just becuase *you* cannot do it or hadn't thought of it.
Richard.[/quote
actuallly..before i concluded that the screen was screwed..i have tried all the options that was mentioned by you..the digitiser overlay is not easily fixed or replaceable..in fact i have opened up the casing..clean it and also check the ribbon connectors in case it was loose..someone have tried to remove the digitiser and failed as the digitiser glass is extremely brittle and cracked whislt removing it..digitisers are also hard to come by and apparently they dont sell them separately now..only source is from a used lcd screen..the most convenient after all failed way was actually to replace the screen..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dvng said:
actuallly..before i concluded that the screen was screwed..i have tried all the options that was mentioned by you..the digitiser overlay is not easily fixed or replaceable..in fact i have opened up the casing..clean it and also check the ribbon connectors in case it was loose..someone have tried to remove the digitiser and failed as the digitiser glass is extremely brittle and cracked whislt removing it..digitisers are also hard to come by and apparently they dont sell them separately now..only source is from a used lcd screen..the most convenient after all failed way was actually to replace the screen..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, they're all over ebay from taiwan for about £25 plus postage but this is just the overlay with glass not the frame, and they *are* easy to fit - I've done a how to guide I'll post later. You don't need to remove the old one in one piece to fit the new one....
You said a new screen was 'the only remedy' - it isn't.
Richard
Interesting, interesting - I look forward to seeing that guide!
Hello,
I have the same problem described above, so my XDA2i is
stuck on the first screen align window and can't go over...
I wish to buy only the digitizer from an ebay user, but I have some questions:
-is the digitizer solded on the LCD?
-are the digitizer and the LCD two single parts?
-there's an howTo guide to disassemble the XDA2i?
thanks
Alessandro
Hello everyone!
I actually managed to change the digitizer of the LCD of XDA II. To answer the previous questions first:
Yes - the digitizer can be separated from LCD, although it is not easy. I used an old fashioned razor blade to do it, since these are very,very thin and do not put excessive pressure onto the digitizer screen during the pressure. The digitizer is made of very fragile glass panel and glued onto LCD with a double sided sellotape (at least looks like it, when removed..) Glue is very sticky and I had to take great care not to brake the old digitizer - took me 2h to remove it. In general braking the old one is not really a big deal as long as the LCD itself is not damaged by the sharp edges of the digitizer glass. Since the risk is there I figured I'd spend a bit more time on removal but at least be sure about a positive outcome of the project. There was a certain screen protector on my device, not installed by me since I acquired the gadget on e-bay. I took care of removing it from digitizer first and only then proceeded to remove the digitizer from LCD.
The digitizer has 4 connections soldered to the LCD. Opening the soldered contacts is simple, if one has any background in soldering at all. The difficult part is to remove the digitizer from LCD, really. Another difficult part seemed to be the soldering of the new one. There are XDA digitizers on the ebay, they do not have the same contact as the XDA manufactured ones so the really difficult part was figuring out how to create the contact. The old one had 4 contacts soldered in a small rectangle going clockwise from lowest left towards lowest right..
The solution does not look exactly elegant, but who cares how the gadget looks on the inside, as long as it works! The 4 contact block of the newly bought digitizer was divided into 4 separate hair-thin contacts and the two outermost contacts (those that come on the left lowest corner and right lowest corner of the small rectangle connection) were soldered first, then a bit of an isolation tape (a simple synthetic tape used for paper repairs et cetera) was applied over the freshly soldered contacts to prevent short circuiting. After that the two upper contacts were soldered and those covered with another piece of tape.
The new digitizer came with double sided tape as well, so after careful alignment it was easy to glue it in the place of the old one. The main thing during this process is to clean the LCD and digitizer from all dirt and fingerprints, I used alchol for that - vodka, to be exact. I reapplied the screen protector to the casing before putting the complete lcd+digitizer block into the device, but I suppose not all screen protectors can be reapplied that easily..
In the end the connection looked crazy but in principle all was as should be and after the reassembly the device was 100% alive again with the screen aligning properly! It was certainly a risky business but I bought the faulty XDA for 60GBP and the digitizer for 10GBP, 70GBP for a fully working XDA is a bargain I think, not to mention an excellent adrenaline rush during some moments of the project
I can provide the pictures of the finished connection if needed, it will require me to disassemble my Alpine again though..
I'd definitely find some photos useful - stick em up on flickr for us please, thanks
Excellent to hear that you got it all sorted, and got a bargain out of it. I don't think my wobbly soldering iron skills would be quite up to what you managed to achieve (usually I end up cauterising more skin than I do soldering wires whenever I have to solder as part of my Uni course, it's a bit of a love/hate relationship between me and soldering irons... I love to hate them).
OK, my apologies for the quality of pictures - smartphones are not too great in this respect and I do not have a digital camera. The big grainy one is my XDA - notice the medusa-like wire cluster next to the shiny manufacturers soldering The second picture shows the actual digitizer that was installed, here note the connector - that had to be divided by scalpel.
Excellent mate, thanks very much.
Congratulations on that, TommyGun! (Labi, ka ir Jc )
Indeed, without a good friend and solderer Johnc, who himself uses mere "phone" all this might have gone otherwise Hail to soldermasters!
Dissamble O2 XDA 2i
Hello all
I've got this problem with my old trust O2 XDA 2i now. I cannot get past the alignment screen at the momemt.
Looks like I would have to disassemble it now and replace the digitiser.. Would a clean up help or should I try to completely replace the digitiser?
Any guide/ steps to disassemble the XDA 2i would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Kunal
Introduction:
It's been over a year since the Streak 7 has been released, long enough that Dell has stopped selling it on their website, yet noone has released a legimitate disassembly guide yet.
Around launch time there was a video made showing the device being taken apart, what makes the video completely worthless is the fact they skipped all the most important steps of actually disassembling it and fast forwards though it till when it's nearly fully taken apart.
This guide will detail out all the steps to take it apart while attempting to minimize damage to it for reassembly.
Overall difficulty: 6/10
Without a guide: 11/10
Tools required:
Hair dryer [strongly recommended]
Very small torx screwdriver
Very fine plastic shim or xacto knife
Step 1: Removing the side bumpers
The two side bumpers cover the majority of the screws. The bumpers themselves are held on by a strip of adhesive tape and are also very brittle. The most obvious method to remove them is to heat each of the bumpers with a hair dryer to weaken the adhesive on them. After heating it multiple times it should hopefully weaken enough so that a thin plastic shim or xacto knife can be forced in from the edges.
Depending on the importance of minimizing cosmetic damage, this can be the longest step.
Summerized steps:
Heat bumpers until adhesive is weakened
Shove thing instrument underneath bumpers from outside edge
Pry off bumpers lengthwise to avoid snapping them
Caution:
The area near the capacitive buttons has an exposed ribbon cable, care must be used around that as the cable can be easily sliced.
The shiny plastic bumpers are VERY brittle and can easily snap if flexed any amount. It may take many re-heatings to remove them without damage
Excessive heat applied to the screen may damage the underlying LCD, it is recommended to slowly heat the bumpers in multiple runs to reduce the chance of damage.
Step 2: Removing the screws
List of screws:
2 visible screws under left bumper
3 visible screws under right bumper
1 screw hidden underneath capacitive sensing pad
2 screws hidden underneath white pads inside side flap
The screws underneath the flap might not be possible to remove without cosmetic damage. As they are underneath the flap this may be an acceptable trade-off.
Step 3: Seperating display from body
The display try is attached to the base by plastic clips on the tray, there are 3 clips on the left side that must be detached and then the display should be able to slide slightly leftwards(?) and then opened downwards.
Caution: When detaching the display be aware of the following cables:
One above the dock connector connecting the display itself
One towards the bottom left connecting the touch sensor
One just right of the buttons connecting their sensors
Step 4: Detach display cables
The cables are standard thin ribbon cables, the main display one has a latch while the two touch ones do not(?)
Step 5: Finish detaching the display from the base
The guide will end here and not go though removing the motherboard or other components from the base tray. They are all simply held on by multiple screws.
Step 6: Reassembly
Repeat steps 1-5 in reverse order.
Food for thought:
The differences between the Wifi and 3/4g models are:
Lack of modem
Lack of PCI-E slot for modem
Lack of sim card assembly
Lack of cell modem antenna assembly
It may be possible to solder on a new PCI-E and sim card assembly to turn a Wifi into a 3/4g model. The PCI-E slot is a standardized one while the sim card bay might be custom fitted to the S7. Swapping out the modems from the EU and US submodels is as simple as removing and replacing.
Acknowledgments:
Graffixnyc for donating a device to hack at with a screwdriver disassemble
FCC.gov for stock photos of the disassembeled pieces
Dell for making the Streak 7 held together ultimately by glue.
No thanks to the other teardown video for SKIPPING half of the most important steps
Shameless self-advertising:
The guide is still somewhat incomplete as when I recieved the donor S7 it was already badly damaged, also as I was working more or less blind it took even more damage in the disassembly. If I had a 2nd one to disassemble I might be able to do it with minimum damage.
-Reserved-
WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.
Thanks theManii
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.
jydie said:
WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Everything but the modem card is soldered onto the board and the board itself has no jumpers.
crockashat said:
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went from the outside as I had a xacto knife and was afraid of scratching the screen, I was pretty agressive with it since it was already scratched up. If you dont go very slowly you might end up discoluring the black plastic (though it's black on black and not hugely noticible)
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals
Originally Posted by TheManii>
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals
Thanks for the information, I will be attempting some surgery of the DS7 in the near future.
when I tried to open the links, they come up as:
You are not authorized to access this page.
not a big deal, I am mechanically inclined so I can figure out most things without too much destruction
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Rewrote the guide, it's nearly complete except the lack of pictures highlighting the various things. Placeholders have already been placed summerizing what they will be of
best diagrams/pics on the 3G/4G linked page
TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These links did work.
Actually both the internal and external photo PDFs have some useful information, and it appears that the more detailed information is in the link for the 3G/4G model.
Thanks again The Manii, appreciate all the helpful information, ROMs, etc.
TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The FCC links work now! Thank you so much for fixing them. Those internal photos are very nice... still I would love to see one in person. I just love taking things apart to see whats inside... but I normally wait until they are dead or defective.
Looks like they use SanDisk for the internal storage... and it is indeed soldered to the board. So, I am not sure what they are doing when they "fix" Streak 7s stuck in read-only mode. Maybe they have to manually short out or complete a connection on the motherboard while re-flashing the internal storage?? Or... with the right equipment, could they actually remove the old flash drive and solder on a new one?
By the way, I like the redesigned layout for your guide. Thank you so, so much for taking the time to describe this process. I greatly appreciate it.
Did you happen to take a close look at the camera to see a S/N or make/model?
I havnt looked at any of the part numbers, I'll make a list when I make the photos to finish the guide
Unfortunately looking at the internal photos again, it looks like virtually all the major chips are underneath the two RF shields or have their own RF shield.
Pretty much the only visible chips are the touchscreen controller, possibly the sim card interface chip and one of the lcd driver chips.
I'm not willing to cut/remove the RF shields as they seem pretty secure, so I'm not gonna be able to pull part numbers off them.
What I'm left with now is a device with:
Demolished dock connector
Cut Capacitive button cable
Missing Flap
Extensive cosmetic damage
Only the cut cable was during the dissassembly though, rest was as-is.
I'm gonna take the final disassembly photos tomorrow then put the whole thing in storage.
hmmm...
I wonder if you would be interested in selling that poor streak for parts
I just bought a unit with a cracked digitizer...
finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.
TheManii said:
finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the glass and screen one piece or will the gorilla glass come apart? I cracked the glass today and the screen itself isn't damaged at all. The unit works perfectly but has cracks on the glass.
Have you heard about sources for parts?
thanks in advance,
DC
The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.
can you see a maker/model of the lcd? also the battery.
TheManii said:
The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the guide, I'll use it when I find the glass to replace.
this is awesome.
been looking for such a guide since long time.
thanks!
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
gunemalli said:
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am looking for the LCD and digitizer assembly. but i am trying to find OEM part
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
housing is not an issue
Lttlwing16 said:
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
i bought one
squee666 said:
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i did buy one from ebay today, after been an annoying person with lots of questions hahaha. i refused to buy from anyone below 99% profile credential on ebay. here are the questions i asked lol
Is the LCD screen manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store? if not, is the same Quality, TRUE IPS LCD with Gorilla Glass 2 digitizer?
Is this LCD part brand new or refurbished from reclaimed old parts?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel new or refurbished, or reclaimed from old parts?
and if I bought a brand new in box sealed G2 from LG, the part I’m asking about would be 100% identical with no differences in quality or condition?
does it work on D800 model, if not do you have one that works with D800 that is a genuine OEM?
is it OEM (Original equipment manufacturer), does it have part number on the flex cable, and LG display co,ltd label ?
only one seller, answered all of them concisely, without political correctness or avoidance. lots of them stopped talking to me, and some only answered vaguely. i had one hilarious response, who said the the screen is OEM but not genuine, i insisted for him to elaborate, he said OEM but not original. all of us know that OEM stands for Original equipment manufacturer. i sent him a response, that it does not make sense to be OEM but not original. he replied back OEM for them is, Optical equipment manufacturer lol, heck i do not even know what does that mean lol. i took a screenshot of the definition and sent it to him, he never replied back hahaha. many shady seller on ebay
P.s once i receive the part and install it, i will update on the condition/quality
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Link
noris08 said:
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251591046010?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
working
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
sdcaliber said:
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
jamracer said:
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
sdcaliber said:
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
jamracer said:
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
sshark said:
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah maybe, all depends of course. most of these products are subject to opinions if there is doubt about their OEM legitimacy. but for me, i will not buy non OEM for battery again, it scares the hell out of me. let's say i had a horrible experience before. i had Note 3, and bought a battery for it. the extra capacity made me drools lol, so i went with it. days later, i found the phone in total meltdown, literally. woke up from my sleep, and the phone is melting/fire.... scary scary experience. the good thing, i do not sleep while my phone next to me. it was on my table, charging.
side not: the original battery of Note 3 malfunctioned
OEM
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought it on Ebay and now it´s working fine, nice!!.. First I bought only the digitizer and it was faulting, but now this assembly is really working fine:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281280382756?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Regards,
Just posting to share my experience. I bought a replacement lcd\digitizer for my G2. Once installed, i had white lines going up and down the screen.
Some devices use different panel hardware (JDI instead of LGIT) and you will have white lines after using patched kernel. You must use those kernel with "_jdi" in its name. More info:http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...&postcount=122
After flashing the new kernal the phone works great. The phone does get noticeably hotter, unfortunately, which is a little worrisome.
The kernal issue and the heat lead me to believe that what i bought was not oem.
Sent from my LG-D801 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Is D800 frame compatible with LS980?
sdcaliber said:
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was just working on a frame lcd assembly swap on an LS980 rev 1. The frame I bought was a Verizon LV980 and the vibrator was off buy at least 3mm, I didn't mind losing the vibrator to gain a good lcd. Then the proximity detector layout was different, the LS980 had an extra piece that fit in a hole, but it could be removed. About 5mm below that is a ground connector for the motherboard on the LS980 but not on the VS980 and the tab holding the antenna coax hit the motherboard making the frame about 0.5mm too small causing the mobo not to seat.
All of these could be amended. Shave 0.5mm of the soft metal chassis, very easy, mobo grounds in at least six other places and proximity sensor had a removable tab.
But the bottom of the chassis where the dock port/usb board sits was just too different, the LS980 daughterboard wouldn't seat, it was larger. It could be forced but only at an angle that made the usb port off-center and not parallel to the opening. My repair stopped and re-assembled the phone with the LS980 chassis complete with my damaged lcd.
-----attached pics of proximity sensor, and ground connector area, didn't take more, I was getting mad.
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually I bought an LCD from this company. I am very happy with it. It is true HD and the it was shipped for me in 3 days as they said. At first I was very worried with the comments but I took the risk and I am satisfied with it. I don't know why others complain about it but I recommend them.
So... Your prolly wondering just exactly what I'm doing here from the title description.
Well, I have 2 devices that I acquired through working at a repair shop,
First, the LG Optimus g e973 32gb - dead board needing JTAG repair, our shop doesn't do jtag.
So I acquired it for my personal parts collection..
Second, the LG Nexus 4 E960 8gb - busted back glass, punctured lipo cell from back glass, scratched front glass and a portion of the left most touch sensor not working, dead external speaker, rear camera lens scratched.. Possibly more..
Another parts doner
So I noticed that both devices seemed of similar layout and size and everything looked identical other then casings
Began lookup of logic board pics and parts of both devices and noticed that they are VERY similar in that they share same parts.. Both rear camera modules have identical ribbon connection and physical size, same with front cam modules and headset jacks cept the nexus 4 headset jack is slightly angled, charger ports and all.. Just casings and antennae placement and NFC/qi charge pad are different
Took both phones apart to the last piece and screw one on left other on right,
I grabbed the casing/lcd, vibration motor, cameras, headset jack, battery from the Optimus,
I grabbed the logic board, bottom speaker/rf plastic, usb/rf module, rf antenna wire, upper half of the plastic support plate that helps hold logic board in, power button, sim tray, peeled off the antennae from the nexus backplate
Assembly...
After several test fits of all the parts to check for tolerances and placements,
I started with the E973 backplate, I removed its NFC pad and all of its antennae, had to dremel off the screw mounts that keep the device together with the tobackplate, peeled off the E973 imei label and stuck it to its own logic board, took imei label off nexus plate and put into E973 backplate, several attempts later I finally get all the antennae and the NFC/qi pad installed on the backplate.. Now the backplate portion of phone is complete..
LCD and logic board mating time.
I test fitted the logic board from nexus to the LCD and touch connections and power button only of the E973, connect battery, hit power, board boots and google logo, lollipop animation, desktop, touch responds, good to go from here
So I notice a few spots that needed light dremeling to allow the slightly differently shaped nexus board to fit proper, now its seated and connected to the LCD and touch, I connect the front cam, back cam, headset modules, and do another test boot, boots again and I test the E973 camera modules on the nexus board, everything is perfect working, headset works, ambient sensors work.
Next is USB RF board placement, some more dremeling around the charger port area of the E973 casing, removed the light defuser from the E973s capacitive home button, dremeled the nexus rf antenna and speaker plate to fit proper and cover the usb section and no i did not need to touch the antenna conductor paint on the plastic
Then connected that usb rf board to logic board, did another boot and charge and led test, all success still so far
So now with all major components tested and working it was on to final assembly
Some more minor dremel work and razor trimming and soldering of volume and power buttons to logic board as they didn't match from nexus to optimus some more tolerance checks and trimming and finally case closed with a bit of bulge at bottom near USB port and near back camera.. Just a few more checks and it will be perfect
Unit boots up, everything functions, and now instead of two dead devices, I have a hybrid working Frankenstein Nexus
I'll update with a video but here is a few pics if they allow them
Awesome :good:
I don't think I've ever seen anything quite like this, it's amazing you got everything to work
Wow. Nice work! Recycling at its best.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Free mobile app
i love my droids, if i can use it in any manner, ill try
ive gone so far as to have used a galaxy s3 with mhl video and bluetooth keyboard/mouse with no lcd panel attached and running off a 5v to 3.7 regulated circuit instead of battery, basically converted my lcd monitor into a smart lcd
ive notice that by using the optimus g's 13mp sensor module, i was creating some bulge around the rear camera area of the backplate, and the nexus 4 motherboard doesnt even tell that its the 13mp sensor, so the kernel must not be enabled for it, wonder if that could be a possible?
because i currently have the 13mp sensor in, everything operates, ill post a video when i can, but the firmware says its 8mp in camera res settings
so im gonna take it out for now, and if there is a way to enable it, ill put it back in and deal with that tiny bulge, as for the bottom bulge in the previous pics, ive figured out what caused that, and it was some extra plastic flashing and clip points that didnt match between the optimus plate and nexus rf antenna module
trimmed out the optimus plate some more and now the bulge is almost gone, but due to not having internal screw mount holes anymore i cannot secure the casing together like in stock form..
there is a before and after pic of the bottom bulge near the usb port attached here
i think that xda should take your senior member title, lock in a box, throw it in the deepest part of the ocean and award you the title of master tinkerer!!
very interesting project and glad to see it worked! must spend quiet a few hours on this Frankenstein mod! if i had your knowledge an talent i would try it to for the sake of more storage!
Hi, I recently attempted to replace the screen on my Moto G 2014, and now the touch doesn't work. The first replacement didn't work so I ordered another one, but that one doesn't work either.
Am I missing something? I followed the instructions on YouTube to the dot and still no touch response.
On another note, the Amazon listing for the part says XT1063. Wouldn't it work on the XT1064 as well?
One would think so. You didn't bend any of the pins on the ribbon cables did you?
Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk
Tel864 said:
One would think so. You didn't bend any of the pins on the ribbon cables did you?
Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I connected the ribbon cable before I placed the board back into the frame. But either way the cable has to bend. That's why I connected it first and then positioned the board over the screw holes so it would bend naturally.
rha_december said:
I connected the ribbon cable before I placed the board back into the frame. But either way the cable has to bend. That's why I connected it first and then positioned the board over the screw holes so it would bend naturally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I meant where they make their connections. I would go back and take a close look at every plug even if you have to use a magnifying glass. It sure sounds like something isn't making a connection.
Tel864 said:
Sorry, I meant where they make their connections. I would go back and take a close look at every plug even if you have to use a magnifying glass. It sure sounds like something isn't making a connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would another part not connecting properly cause the touch to not work? Also, does the back cover need to be on it for the touch to work? I noticed there are little copper plates on the back cover. I've tried testing with and without it screwed on. I'll take a look at the plugs.
The plugs and pins look fine to me. Nothing bent.
rha_december said:
The plugs and pins look fine to me. Nothing bent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm guessing that you replaced the entire screen assembly and not just the glass. If the silicon adhesive between the glass and digitizer isn't on properly, then it's not going to work. If you bought the entire assembly assembled, then that's probably not it. If the entire screen assembly is good, then I'm still betting on some type of connection or broken wire problem. If those ribbon cables get pinched or pulled on even a little, the wire inside gets broken. I don't know how you would be even able to test the cables without replacing them. It could be so many things, I'm out of ideas.
Tel864 said:
I'm guessing that you replaced the entire screen assembly and not just the glass. If the silicon adhesive between the glass and digitizer isn't on properly, then it's not going to work. If you bought the entire assembly assembled, then that's probably not it. If the entire screen assembly is good, then I'm still betting on some type of connection or broken wire problem. If those ribbon cables get pinched or pulled on even a little, the wire inside gets broken. I don't know how you would be even able to test the cables without replacing them. It could be so many things, I'm out of ideas.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One screen was without the frame, and the other was the whole assembly. I guess it is a broken connection somewhere.... I tried being extra careful
I was replacing the screen for a friend, but I guess I'm going to have to buy them a new phone instead.. D:
rha_december said:
Hi, I recently attempted to replace the screen on my Moto G 2014, and now the touch doesn't work. The first replacement didn't work so I ordered another one, but that one doesn't work either.
Am I missing something? I followed the instructions on YouTube to the dot and still no touch response.
On another note, the Amazon listing for the part says XT1063. Wouldn't it work on the XT1064 as well?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is your Moto G definitely 2nd generation?
Maybe you should have bought the screen for XT1032?
Did you carefully lift up the little lever on the ZIF socket?
And then press it back after fitting the ribbon end?
If the lever breaks then it won't work.
Did you find a solution? I have the same problem
Unplug battery. Plug it again... Worked to me...
Disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it worked for me.
Thanks for the advice!
Help me as well
rha_december said:
Hi, I recently attempted to replace the screen on my Moto G 2014, and now the touch doesn't work. The first replacement didn't work so I ordered another one, but that one doesn't work either.
Am I missing something? I followed the instructions on YouTube to the dot and still no touch response.
On another note, the Amazon listing for the part says XT1063. Wouldn't it work on the XT1064 as well?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
even i have the same problem.. please help me
i cannot post the URL of the video on youtube of the problem but can you please head over to this channel " Its Just Something".. It has only a single video of the problem.. please help
Screen Touch not working properly - I sat on my Honor X2
Hello
I sat on my X2 GEM-703L under several pillows - bend was 1/2 inch from center (top/bottom were 1/2" lower than center - approaching U shape - very shallow though) I carefully bent it straight (there is a small link in metal frame right side just above center button. Everything else seems to work beside the screen. I will push "4" and the key adjacent character is recognized also it will type on its own or type 3-5 characters when I only pushed one...
Questions:. Does this sound like touch screen Replacement will fix these issues??? Or is thier additional interface hardware attached with the touch screen, or both?
I am hoping it's just touch screen replacement - I really like that phone (even with texting recieve not able to be solved)
Thanks for your help
Gary
---------- Post added at 12:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:22 AM ----------
Should I have started a new thread?