Related
I damaged my Capacitive buttons (flex circuit).
Can anyone recommend where to get a replacement part?
Lol. I did the same thing. Ladies and gentlemen please wait for the plastic tool to arrive in the mail before you start trying to disassemble your streak! I used a screwdriver and it cut through the flexible circuit card. Contemplated fixing it, but there`s five tracks on the circuit board!
I got a quote from an ebay seller in the UK for the capacitive buttons and plastic bezel. 90 pounds plust postage. What a rip off! I ended up buying a complete streak from ebay. It was locked to O2 and had the lcd bleeding problem, but perfect for me. Keep your eye out.
In the meantime, install softkeys from the market. It is a replacement home/settings/back button. A little inconvenient, but keeps you going while you bide your time on evilbay.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
printed circuits
My first streak also has a broken capacitive circuit board, didn't use this plastic tool for disassembling..
Now i use a old modified tooth brush
Was ready to ask a flexible board manufacturer what it would cost to reproduce such a circuit but for now i'm also using softkeys..
Maybe if we get 100 people together who needs one of those capacitive button circuits its worth asking a reproduction?
Thanks for the inputs. I got the key to work again after some fiddling. I'm just waiting for it to inevitably fail. I'll probably just get a new phone when that happens.
how do you get it broken? not that i wanted too, but it sound strange to me
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
Pretty easy... First time pulling it apart, had not seen any videos of the process. Fixit. Com (OR IFIXIT?) wasn't that comprehensive. Of course I was overtired and of course used a small screwdriver instead of a plastic removal tool.
Excuses, excuses. The screwdriver ultimately was the wrong thing.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
Does anyone know where i can buy the Streak front 4 buttons and volume rocker buttons ribbons ?
http://www.dellstreakrepairs.co.uk/spares.html
I broke my capacitive button ribbon cable, anyone have any luck finding replacements? I'm going to try to repair it.
Wheeew, just finished repairing my broken cap buttons. Most nerve-wracking soldering job ever.
I managed to tear through 5 contacts on the flex PCB when disassembling the Streak because I didn't bother to read the obvious warning about this on ifixit Also, I was taking the week-old device apart for no good reason, so I had it bloody coming, really. Anyway, even with a high-quality soldering iron and a stereomicroscope this repair was a massive pain, but it is doable.
I think it should be possible to repair even a completely broken ribbon - I would scrape off the plastic off the ends of the tracks and then glue the underside of both halves of the circuit in place (or tape together if not possible). Then you need to tin the tracks with solder - plenty of flux helps. After that it's the difficult matter of bridging the broken tracks with solder blobs or tiny pieces of wire while not shorting across them. Finally a layer of epoxy to secure it all. Not even worth attempting if you don't have a really good soldering iron and a microscope. Can't use too high a temperature or the plastic melts. I did the repair with the phone assembled fully except for the bottom panel, flex PCB attached to phone - the broken area was still accessible for me and this way reduces the risk of breaking contacts during reassembly.
Hope this helps someone!
Posted in error
is it available now . coz i searched all through the internet and couldnt find the home and back buttons strip .
DashingGentleman said:
Wheeew, just finished repairing my broken cap buttons. Most nerve-wracking soldering job ever.
I managed to tear through 5 contacts on the flex PCB when disassembling the Streak because I didn't bother to read the obvious warning about this on ifixit Also, I was taking the week-old device apart for no good reason, so I had it bloody coming, really. Anyway, even with a high-quality soldering iron and a stereomicroscope this repair was a massive pain, but it is doable.
I think it should be possible to repair even a completely broken ribbon - I would scrape off the plastic off the ends of the tracks and then glue the underside of both halves of the circuit in place (or tape together if not possible). Then you need to tin the tracks with solder - plenty of flux helps. After that it's the difficult matter of bridging the broken tracks with solder blobs or tiny pieces of wire while not shorting across them. Finally a layer of epoxy to secure it all. Not even worth attempting if you don't have a really good soldering iron and a microscope. Can't use too high a temperature or the plastic melts. I did the repair with the phone assembled fully except for the bottom panel, flex PCB attached to phone - the broken area was still accessible for me and this way reduces the risk of breaking contacts during reassembly.
Hope this helps someone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I may attempt this...$40usd for a new assembly is a bit high...
You can find the top/bottom parts on Ebay and on Lingosbox.com
I've purchased some spare parts for other phones on lingosbox - they are not genuine oem parts but for this price, it's a bargain for replacement parts that are rare/difficult to find. There's some delay(15-27days) but everything has arrived without any problem.
good to know someone found it cheaper
So I decided to give this a teardown. First, I must say that I am impressed with the build quality of this device. This thing was not exactly the easiest in the world to take apart. The internals are all very solid, but there are surprisingly few "guts" inside this thing.
All images posted here will be smaller in size, but you can click the image to be taken to a larger image
First we'll start out with some software screenshots.
Product key is blanked out (sorry folks, not showing you that)
Quadrant Info
SetCPU CPU Info
SetCPU RAM Info
HARDWARE INSIDES!
Full System
Back Plate
Back of the screen
Screen Model?
Back USB Port
Back Board
Power Button (I like the new power button setup)
Power Button in place
Webcam
Speaker
Antenna
Volume Rocker (Notice that it is screwed in so it holds in place very well)
Metal Plate off the front of the board
Back of the board (plate off)
Close-up of RAM
Back of board components
(Same thing is posted over at the ArchosFans Forum).
Sorry that this really isn't Development, but there is no General G9 section.
thanks
i write a news on JBMM http://www.jbmm.fr/?p=25458
Thanks for posting this. Kind of strange that the antenna sits at the bottom.
Cooool...
Hey Harfainx,
amazing pics... you know i am a hardware freak
Excellent!
By looking at the components, there's no big surprise, pretty straight design.
Touchscreen manufacturer did not change...
I wonder about this:
http://www.pixcir.com.cn/english/products.asp?Action=Detail&ID=68
So it seems, it's still two-point multitouch.
Thanks a lot for posting this!!!
Regards,
scholbert
Park82 said:
Thanks for posting this. Kind of strange that the antenna sits at the bottom.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the confusion, the antenna is at the top-right of the device when it's put together.
In the pictures, I have the device opened up like a book. It's face down in this order in the first hardware picture:
Top-Back
Bottom-Back
Bottom-Front
Top-Front
So the bottom of the picture is the top of the front of the device.
ahh no my bad. I wonder where they managed to fit in the HDD for the 250GB model. Did you see the storage chip? or did I miss it
4 point touch, 2 true
scholbert said:
Touchscreen manufacturer did not change...
I wonder about this:
http://www.pixcir.com.cn/english/products.asp?Action=Detail&ID=68
So it seems, it's still two-point multitouch.
Thanks a lot for posting this!!!
Regards,
scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems to be 4 point with 2 true touch points?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YXq-jlOwOU
USB Port
The back USB Port behind the cover is coming out on my 80G9 when unplugging a cable f.e. is this correct? It moves 1cm from its normal position.
Cause on your pics I didnt saw that the USB Port is mounted on a sledge plate.
Or wasnt this visible to me.
It might be correct cause the back USB Port is connected to the main board with a cable ...
snowman7782 said:
The back USB Port behind the cover is coming out on my 80G9 when unplugging a cable f.e. is this correct? It moves 1cm from its normal position.
Cause on your pics I didnt saw that the USB Port is mounted on a sledge plate.
Or wasnt this visible to me.
It might be correct cause the back USB Port is connected to the main board with a cable ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes the USB is meant to move out slightly. The purpose is for the 3G dongle.
That Elpida chip is RAM and has CPU under it.
Which one of the ribbon cables carries the touch screen data? I have a non-responsive screen, Thanks.
Tweakurr said:
Which one of the ribbon cables carries the touch screen data? I have a non-responsive screen, Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The long white one. The brown is to LCD matrix.
The matrix and the touchscreen look as a single unit, however they can be separated. Remove the metal shield at the motherboard side, all additional boards (antennas etc.), and metal clamps on the short sides of of the panel. It appears as a single unit in a metal frame. Actually there is one frame attached to the front panel and touchscreen, and the other embracing the matrix. The latter frame is fixed within the former one with small metal clamps/holes on them. Just release them with a small screwdriver. Be careful not to leave your greasy fingerprints on the matrix - as for any optics, the more you try to clean it afterwards, the more you pollute it.
Proud to say that I broke my touchscreen and left the matrix fully operational. And found a man here in Moscow with exactly the opposite damage. And managed to assemble a single device out of the two. And it works! And no unrecognized spare parts left! And now I have a spare MB (with dead modem port, however) for Linux exercises, and a spare set of batteries - which seems to be quite useful in the future.
Is the screen completely dead? In my case, the crack was not across the whole glass, and the very edge of the screen (about 15% wide) remained operational. Thus I managed to rotate it so that it could be unlocked, and then use a USB mouse to set off the screen lock for the future. Once unlocked, it could be operaterd with a mouse instead of the TS.
iourine said:
The long white one. The brown is to LCD matrix.
The matrix and the touchscreen look as a single unit, however they can be separated. Remove the metal shield at the motherboard side, all additional boards (antennas etc.), and metal clamps on the short sides of of the panel. It appears as a single unit in a metal frame. Actually there is one frame attached to the front panel and touchscreen, and the other embracing the matrix. The latter frame is fixed within the former one with small metal clamps/holes on them. Just release them with a small screwdriver. Be careful not to leave your greasy fingerprints on the matrix - as for any optics, the more you try to clean it afterwards, the more you pollute it.
Proud to say that I broke my touchscreen and left the matrix fully operational. And found a man here in Moscow with exactly the opposite damage. And managed to assemble a single device out of the two. And it works! And no unrecognized spare parts left! And now I have a spare MB (with dead modem port, however) for Linux exercises, and a spare set of batteries - which seems to be quite useful in the future.
Is the screen completely dead? In my case, the crack was not across the whole glass, and the very edge of the screen (about 15% wide) remained operational. Thus I managed to rotate it so that it could be unlocked, and then use a USB mouse to set off the screen lock for the future. Once unlocked, it could be operaterd with a mouse instead of the TS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks very much for the reply. Sorry for the delay been on vacation and doing house remodeling. I will compare the cables tonight. The display is perfectly fine except for the touch sense. Just want to make sure the problem lies in the display panel.
Tweakurr said:
Thanks very much for the reply. Sorry for the delay been on vacation and doing house remodeling. I will compare the cables tonight. The display is perfectly fine except for the touch sense. Just want to make sure the problem lies in the display panel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd better check the cables and connectors only. If the trouble is in the touchscreen itself, or in its controller board (attached to the bottom side and bent around the LCD matrix - do not tear it off!), then surely you won't fix it at home. Hardly you will be able to replace the controller board alone, too. The only chance is to find another broken device for parts, as I did.
Thanks for the teardown pics, they are very interesting.
I was thinking if it would be possible to exchange the speaker to some better speaker.
Is this possible, did anyone perhaps already exchange the speaker?
Hi there,
I'm looking to replace the broken glass front of my gt-i9305. However, most parts I find online explicitly list the i9300 unit.
Will a i9300 glass front fit the i9305?
Thank you for your input,
Gnaddel
Hi Gnaddel,
First i would like to say that i am no expert or authorized in this filed but as far as i know and checked in the internet,those 2 models are exactly in the same dimensions and the only different is that the radio/modem is Qualcomm brand and not Samsung.
So i think it will fit
http://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_i9305_galaxy_s_iii-5001.php
http://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_i9300_galaxy_s_iii-4238.php
Only differences are the motherboard and the antenna module.
All I can say is that when I replaced the screen for my i9305 they told me the part for my phone was a little cheaper than the one for i9300. And that was an official Samsung service center. I asked why and they didn't really know the reason. At this point I'd say they are different.
Sent from my GT-I9305 using xda premium
stefano80 said:
I asked why and they didn't really know the reason.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's probably because they sell more i9300's than i9305's so they charge more for the screen to make money.
I did see one guy selling an i9300 screen on eBay because it didn't fit his i9305. Not sure if they just didn't know how to fit it properly or if they actually don't fit. I would think that they would fit because its exactly the same frame. Its only if the extra components need more space to fit in the phone.
Sent from my GT-I9305T using xda app-developers app
They are the same. I've fixed several i9305 phones with the i9300 front screens :good:
zac68 said:
They are the same. I've fixed several i9305 phones with the i9300 front screens :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt they've been successful repairs that's went off without a hitch in that case..
The thing is the back of the screen on the i9300 and i9305 differs a slight, (i'm talking about the iron/steel bit on the back of a complete assembled screen) this won't accommodate the motherboard on the various units .. apparently the i9305 has a few more transistors or the like on the motherboard..
Example: i9300 screen assembly, i9305 mid frame..
The motherboard wont slot down properly, leading to the bottom left corner (Seen from behind) to not go down properly, which in turn leads to the mid frame siting a slight skewed, which also means that the battery cover won't fit properly, as the bottom left corner will be lifted enough to where it might fall off without much strain.
This is due to the the ironmolding on the back of the screen assembly being slightly different from the i9305 device, which fits the additional capacitors and so forth better.
,
,I can .. if requested provide photographs of the differences i'm referring to, as I've a number of screens in-house.
I have also i9305 and my gf has i9300.
i bought some screen protectors and put them on both phones.
on the i9300 fits nice.
on i9305 the edges of the protector do not stick on the screen. and it now has a non pretty margin of unstuck plastic.
it happened after multiple tries with many different protectors.
so i assume that there is a difference betweenthe two screens . some kind of curve is on ii9305 screen.
Eirwn said:
I have also i9305 and my gf has i9300.
i bought some screen protectors and put them on both phones.
on the i9300 fits nice.
on i9305 the edges of the protector do not stick on the screen. and it now has a non pretty margin of unstuck plastic.
it happened after multiple tries with many different protectors.
so i assume that there is a difference betweenthe two screens . some kind of curve is on ii9305 screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahaha you made my day.
Anyway, can anyone confirm or not if i9300 amoled screen would go on i9305 ?
Also what u think about chineese screens that says "guenuine" but may not be, would i get crappy screen ?
i9305 board and i9300 LCD unit
zac68 said:
They are the same. I've fixed several i9305 phones with the i9300 front screens :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it not working, home button not working ?
did you try after replace ?
We are talking about two different things here.
Some people are talking about the front glass. This is exactly the same for both models. The S3 LTE (i9305) is the same design but altered for 4G so the motherboard and some antennas have been altered and the metal frame and some other elements needed to be altered too to accommodate the alterations.
Battery and battery cover are also the same. Also the cameras, speaker, vibrator and wifi antenna. I'm not sure about the LCD screen and touch screen but I would say hey are the same too (I'm talking about these two elements alone, not the frame)
If you try to fit a regular i9300 front (frame, LCD, touch screen and glass) to a i9305 motherboard, you will find it doesn't fit perfectly. Main problem is in the different disposition of the big square chips in the motherboard side that touches the front frame. i9300 frame has a rim around those chips that touches the golden line in the motherboard that surrounds them. Just over the microUSB housing there is a part of that rim that enters the squared perimeter. That piece of rim has been removed so the rim in the i9300 frame will avoid the chips in the i9305 motherboard to fit there.
The lower left corner of the frame, near the screw hole, is also a little different, again due to an alteration in the rim.
Finally, the i9300 frame has a tiny metal bit in the very lower left corner, near the mic that avoids the plastic back middle cover of the i9305 to fit perfectly. that's because this cover houses at the bottom an antenna (I guess this is the 4G antenna) that is slightly bigger that the one in the i9300. You can think you could use the i9300 middle cover instead, but then you would be fitting the phone with a 3G antenna instead of 4G. what's more, this antenna has 3 points to connect with the motherboard while the i9300 antenna has only 2 points.
The reason the home button doesn't work is because the home button is not connected to the motherboard through the main connector but using two spots that you can see just over the mic white rubber housing. since the motherboard is not down to the position it should, it will not touch those spots.
Still, I believe there is a solution and it consists in using a Dremel tool to remove all the aforementioned parts of the i9300 metal frame so the i9305 motherboard and middle cover fit correctly.
Some precautions have to be taken. Covering the holes in the frame to avoid metal splinters entering the LCD circuits and painting the removed parts properly to avoid contact of the metal with the motherboard circuits.
I haven't tried it personally but I'm probable going to do it this weekend so I will tell you how it goes.
And next some pictures illustrating everything I explained:
Thanks for this, jedikalimero, this is exactly the information I needed.
In theory would it be possible to disassemble the entire front assembly of an I9300 to get the digitiser and screen panel out and attach to the front assembly of an I9305 so the gaps match up on the board?
Pretty much what I'm thinking of doing is replacing the cracked digitiser of an I9305 with the digitiser of an I9300. As you have shown, the front panel assembly would not be compatible, but I was thinking of disassembling the I9300 assembly and doing what I mentioned above.
I know the screen assembly is quite difficult to take apart as a lot of it is held together with glue rather than screws so it might not be worth the effort. Just thought I'd ask anyway.
ugly_bob said:
Thanks for this, jedikalimero, this is exactly the information I needed.
In theory would it be possible to disassemble the entire front assembly of an I9300 to get the digitiser and screen panel out and attach to the front assembly of an I9305 so the gaps match up on the board?
Pretty much what I'm thinking of doing is replacing the cunrepairableitiser of an I9305 with the digitiser of an I9300. As you have shown, the front panel assembly would not be compatible, but I was thinking of disassembling the I9300 assembly and doing what I mentioned above.
I know the screen assembly is quite difficult to take apart as a lot of it is held together with glue rather than screws so it might not be worth the effort. Just thought I'd ask anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Forget it. It is practically impossible to remove the lcd and touch sensor from the frame without damaging them. Even removing the top Gorilla glass is a very difficult and risky task since it is fully glued to the touch sensor and this to the lcd and this to the frame. Not only the edges but all the surface. Samsung worked very hard to make the front assembly unrepairable.
You could buy just the lcd and touch sensor and put them in the emptied frame of your broken screen but you still have to save the touch buttons and put a new front glass. I've compared the prices of the lcd+touch sensor assembly and the prices of the full front assembly and it isn't worth the effort. Just buy a front assembly for your S3 LTE and sell the broken one at ebay.
jedikalimero said:
Forget it. It is practically impossible to remove the lcd and touch sensor from the frame without damaging them. Even removing the top Gorilla glass is a very difficult and risky task since it is fully glued to the touch sensor and this to the lcd and this to the frame. Not only the edges but all the surface. Samsung worked very hard to make the front assembly unrepairable.
You could buy just the lcd and touch sensor and put them in the emptied frame of your broken screen but you still have to save the touch buttons and put a new front glass. I've compared the prices of the lcd+touch sensor assembly and the prices of the full front assembly and it isn't worth the effort. Just buy a front assembly for your S3 LTE and sell the broken one at ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought that might be the case, thanks for the advice.
i9305 and i9300 are the same except for a little differences in the motherboard and LTE antenna. You can safely change the screen
More simple...
jedikalimero said:
We are talking about two different things here.
Some people are talking about the front glass. This is exactly the same for both models. The S3 LTE (i9305) is the same design but altered for 4G so the motherboard and some antennas have been altered and the metal frame and some other elements needed to be altered too to accommodate the alterations.
Battery and battery cover are also the same. Also the cameras, speaker, vibrator and wifi antenna. I'm not sure about the LCD screen and touch screen but I would say hey are the same too (I'm talking about these two elements alone, not the frame)
If you try to fit a regular i9300 front (frame, LCD, touch screen and glass) to a i9305 motherboard, you will find it doesn't fit perfectly. Main problem is in the different disposition of the big square chips in the motherboard side that touches the front frame. i9300 frame has a rim around those chips that touches the golden line in the motherboard that surrounds them. Just over the microUSB housing there is a part of that rim that enters the squared perimeter. That piece of rim has been removed so the rim in the i9300 frame will avoid the chips in the i9305 motherboard to fit there.
The lower left corner of the frame, near the screw hole, is also a little different, again due to an alteration in the rim.
Finally, the i9300 frame has a tiny metal bit in the very lower left corner, near the mic that avoids the plastic back middle cover of the i9305 to fit perfectly. that's because this cover houses at the bottom an antenna (I guess this is the 4G antenna) that is slightly bigger that the one in the i9300. You can think you could use the i9300 middle cover instead, but then you would be fitting the phone with a 3G antenna instead of 4G. what's more, this antenna has 3 points to connect with the motherboard while the i9300 antenna has only 2 points.
The reason the home button doesn't work is because the home button is not connected to the motherboard through the main connector but using two spots that you can see just over the mic white rubber housing. since the motherboard is not down to the position it should, it will not touch those spots.
Still, I believe there is a solution and it consists in using a Dremel tool to remove all the aforementioned parts of the i9300 metal frame so the i9305 motherboard and middle cover fit correctly.
Some precautions have to be taken. Covering the holes in the frame to avoid metal splinters entering the LCD circuits and painting the removed parts properly to avoid contact of the metal with the motherboard circuits.
I haven't tried it personally but I'm probable going to do it this weekend so I will tell you how it goes.
And next some pictures illustrating everything I explained:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried it a little differently:
Instead of removing the metal legs on the display, I put some clear tape on those areas causing a short on the mainboard. As this doesn't make the PCB fitting mechanically to the display, I didn't tighten the black center screw very much. If you then use a dremel for the midframe, everything works technically and also the gap on the left bottom disappears.
I was afraid of metal flitter in the electronics when cutting the metal legs. Obviously, the mainboard is very robust. Even tough I caused several times a short by the wrong display, everything is still fine....
Loud speaker assemble?
Anyone knows whether I can fit i9300's loudspeaker(wifi,gps,headphone jack) assemble in i9305?
Any extra antenna there?
I'm afraid 9305's 4g antenna is there..
cce121 said:
Anyone knows whether I can fit i9300's loudspeaker(wifi,gps,headphone jack) assemble in i9305?
Any extra antenna there?
I'm afraid 9305's 4g antenna is there..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not 100% sure but the tracks that can be seen under the white paint (or black paint) on the outside of the piece are different in shape from i9300 to i9305
What is sure is there is at least one antenna inside the piece, maybe two
Jedikalimero,
thank you very much for this info & pictures!
I've applied your solution (Dremel tool, holes covered by clear tape and then to isolate chips and brushed parts) and it works like a champ!
Regards,
Jan, Prague, Czech Republic
jedikalimero said:
not 100% sure but the tracks that can be seen under the white paint (or black paint) on the outside of the piece are different in shape from i9300 to i9305
What is sure is there is at least one antenna inside the piece, maybe two
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From the photos I have inspected,the number pins in that particular assemble in i9300 n i9305 are the same and appeared in the same place. Can't judge from 9300's photo though. In fact in my i9305, that part say i9300 on outside.
Not sure if my unit had been tinkered before as i bought it as a 1month old 2nd hand unit.
So I'm in the process of replacing the ear piece speaker. It has always acted up but finally completely went out when I dropped the phone today. Tore the phone apart and pulled the bad one out, and put it back together, so for the time being it's a phone with no speaker, but strangely now the rear camera doesn't work either.
So I'm curious, maybe I still don't have the ribbon cable from the camera seated correctly. But do you think maybe the camera and speaker are on the same circuit and without the speaker in there the camera won't work?
The ear piece not working can usually be fixed by bending the metal pins. I've managed to fix3 Droid's this way. that being said, I don't think the camera has anything to do with the ear piece.
Check if you've inserted the ribbon properly. The ribbon goes in pretty deep. It's easy to make a mistake when connecting the ribbon.
You wouldn't have some instructions for that procedure, do you? Or is there an iFixit video? Have the same problem with the speaker.
Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk now Free
Bumping this old thread in the event that someone in the future finds it useful. Obviously, replacing the speaker will VOID YOUR WARRANTY in every way possible, and if you're not careful will ruin your phone! But, if you're like me, your D4 is long out of warranty and it'll be a cold day in hell before you give up your keyboard.
That being said, I just replaced the speaker in my D4, after the stock speaker fizzled and died after almost 2 years. Every now and then it would "fuzz out" and I'd gently tap the phone against my head (which I'm sure looked quite comical) and it would stop. Finally the speaker gave up the ghost entirely and it was nearly impossible to hear. I used resources from this site to guide me in taking it apart.
You'll need a torx T5 and T3 driver - DO NOT try to use any substitute drivers if you don't have an official T5 or T3, like I did - you will strip the screws (they strip VERY easily) and you'll need to bust out the dremel to drill/grind away the screw, or buy a whole new LCD/digitizer assembly for $~70 (which, as of this posting, are getting harder to find). You might think that you can fudge it with an eyeglass repair flathead driver, but you can't. Trust me. T3 and T5 drivers are cheap online, do it right.
For the actual replacement speaker itself, I got a speaker for a Nokia Lumia 610 on ebay for about 4 bucks (free shipping!). It's almost identical to the stock D4 speaker, but it looks to be a little better quality and the actual place where noise comes out looks to be ever so slightly bigger. It "sits" in a little pocket in the outer housing/screen digitizer, held in place by the flex cable. You'll see once you get there.
Make sure both the dual snap connector that connects the mainboard to the screen/digitizer is securely fastened, and also make sure that the tiny snap connector that goes from the screen to the digitizer itself is securely fastened as well - this second snap connector is up by the notification LED. I scared myself when I re-assembled everything and my touchscreen didn't respond. Also, when you're working up by the notification LED, there's a small piece of white-ish rubber that sits between the actual LED itself and the little hole where light comes out on the front of the phone. It's crucial that you don't lose this - the LED is a few mm offset from the hole, and this piece of rubber glows and creates the notification light that you see on the front. Without it, no notification light.
Be careful with the mainboard, replacement units are very hard to find and will only get rarer as the D4 ages. It's basically the heart of your phone.
Tweezers and a "safe-open pry tool" (basically a piece of soft plastic to ease apart the pieces of your phone) make this process easier as well.
Another note: there are 2 hidden T5 screws behind the bezel that surrounds the rear camera and flash. When you go to peel this up, you'll probably ruin it - this is poor design IMO, and mostly inevitable. Good news though, replacement camera bezel parts are available online for a few bucks.
All in all, this process isn't difficult, but requires really good light (super bright lamp or headlamp) and will give you a greater appreciation for your phone and how it's both a magical little black box as well as just a collection of shiny bits.
Good luck!!
Khiraji said:
You'll need a torx T5 and T3 driver - DO NOT try to use any substitute drivers if you don't have an official T5 or T3, like I did - you will strip the screws (they strip VERY easily) and you'll need to bust out the dremel to drill/grind away the screw
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Listen to him. I learned this the hard way and that is precisely what I had to do. Taking a dremel to my cell phone... I never want to sweat bullets like that again.
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
gunemalli said:
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am looking for the LCD and digitizer assembly. but i am trying to find OEM part
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
housing is not an issue
Lttlwing16 said:
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
i bought one
squee666 said:
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i did buy one from ebay today, after been an annoying person with lots of questions hahaha. i refused to buy from anyone below 99% profile credential on ebay. here are the questions i asked lol
Is the LCD screen manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store? if not, is the same Quality, TRUE IPS LCD with Gorilla Glass 2 digitizer?
Is this LCD part brand new or refurbished from reclaimed old parts?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel new or refurbished, or reclaimed from old parts?
and if I bought a brand new in box sealed G2 from LG, the part I’m asking about would be 100% identical with no differences in quality or condition?
does it work on D800 model, if not do you have one that works with D800 that is a genuine OEM?
is it OEM (Original equipment manufacturer), does it have part number on the flex cable, and LG display co,ltd label ?
only one seller, answered all of them concisely, without political correctness or avoidance. lots of them stopped talking to me, and some only answered vaguely. i had one hilarious response, who said the the screen is OEM but not genuine, i insisted for him to elaborate, he said OEM but not original. all of us know that OEM stands for Original equipment manufacturer. i sent him a response, that it does not make sense to be OEM but not original. he replied back OEM for them is, Optical equipment manufacturer lol, heck i do not even know what does that mean lol. i took a screenshot of the definition and sent it to him, he never replied back hahaha. many shady seller on ebay
P.s once i receive the part and install it, i will update on the condition/quality
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Link
noris08 said:
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251591046010?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
working
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
sdcaliber said:
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
jamracer said:
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
sdcaliber said:
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
jamracer said:
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
sshark said:
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah maybe, all depends of course. most of these products are subject to opinions if there is doubt about their OEM legitimacy. but for me, i will not buy non OEM for battery again, it scares the hell out of me. let's say i had a horrible experience before. i had Note 3, and bought a battery for it. the extra capacity made me drools lol, so i went with it. days later, i found the phone in total meltdown, literally. woke up from my sleep, and the phone is melting/fire.... scary scary experience. the good thing, i do not sleep while my phone next to me. it was on my table, charging.
side not: the original battery of Note 3 malfunctioned
OEM
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought it on Ebay and now it´s working fine, nice!!.. First I bought only the digitizer and it was faulting, but now this assembly is really working fine:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281280382756?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Regards,
Just posting to share my experience. I bought a replacement lcd\digitizer for my G2. Once installed, i had white lines going up and down the screen.
Some devices use different panel hardware (JDI instead of LGIT) and you will have white lines after using patched kernel. You must use those kernel with "_jdi" in its name. More info:http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...&postcount=122
After flashing the new kernal the phone works great. The phone does get noticeably hotter, unfortunately, which is a little worrisome.
The kernal issue and the heat lead me to believe that what i bought was not oem.
Sent from my LG-D801 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Is D800 frame compatible with LS980?
sdcaliber said:
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was just working on a frame lcd assembly swap on an LS980 rev 1. The frame I bought was a Verizon LV980 and the vibrator was off buy at least 3mm, I didn't mind losing the vibrator to gain a good lcd. Then the proximity detector layout was different, the LS980 had an extra piece that fit in a hole, but it could be removed. About 5mm below that is a ground connector for the motherboard on the LS980 but not on the VS980 and the tab holding the antenna coax hit the motherboard making the frame about 0.5mm too small causing the mobo not to seat.
All of these could be amended. Shave 0.5mm of the soft metal chassis, very easy, mobo grounds in at least six other places and proximity sensor had a removable tab.
But the bottom of the chassis where the dock port/usb board sits was just too different, the LS980 daughterboard wouldn't seat, it was larger. It could be forced but only at an angle that made the usb port off-center and not parallel to the opening. My repair stopped and re-assembled the phone with the LS980 chassis complete with my damaged lcd.
-----attached pics of proximity sensor, and ground connector area, didn't take more, I was getting mad.
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually I bought an LCD from this company. I am very happy with it. It is true HD and the it was shipped for me in 3 days as they said. At first I was very worried with the comments but I took the risk and I am satisfied with it. I don't know why others complain about it but I recommend them.