So I'm in the process of replacing the ear piece speaker. It has always acted up but finally completely went out when I dropped the phone today. Tore the phone apart and pulled the bad one out, and put it back together, so for the time being it's a phone with no speaker, but strangely now the rear camera doesn't work either.
So I'm curious, maybe I still don't have the ribbon cable from the camera seated correctly. But do you think maybe the camera and speaker are on the same circuit and without the speaker in there the camera won't work?
The ear piece not working can usually be fixed by bending the metal pins. I've managed to fix3 Droid's this way. that being said, I don't think the camera has anything to do with the ear piece.
Check if you've inserted the ribbon properly. The ribbon goes in pretty deep. It's easy to make a mistake when connecting the ribbon.
You wouldn't have some instructions for that procedure, do you? Or is there an iFixit video? Have the same problem with the speaker.
Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk now Free
Bumping this old thread in the event that someone in the future finds it useful. Obviously, replacing the speaker will VOID YOUR WARRANTY in every way possible, and if you're not careful will ruin your phone! But, if you're like me, your D4 is long out of warranty and it'll be a cold day in hell before you give up your keyboard.
That being said, I just replaced the speaker in my D4, after the stock speaker fizzled and died after almost 2 years. Every now and then it would "fuzz out" and I'd gently tap the phone against my head (which I'm sure looked quite comical) and it would stop. Finally the speaker gave up the ghost entirely and it was nearly impossible to hear. I used resources from this site to guide me in taking it apart.
You'll need a torx T5 and T3 driver - DO NOT try to use any substitute drivers if you don't have an official T5 or T3, like I did - you will strip the screws (they strip VERY easily) and you'll need to bust out the dremel to drill/grind away the screw, or buy a whole new LCD/digitizer assembly for $~70 (which, as of this posting, are getting harder to find). You might think that you can fudge it with an eyeglass repair flathead driver, but you can't. Trust me. T3 and T5 drivers are cheap online, do it right.
For the actual replacement speaker itself, I got a speaker for a Nokia Lumia 610 on ebay for about 4 bucks (free shipping!). It's almost identical to the stock D4 speaker, but it looks to be a little better quality and the actual place where noise comes out looks to be ever so slightly bigger. It "sits" in a little pocket in the outer housing/screen digitizer, held in place by the flex cable. You'll see once you get there.
Make sure both the dual snap connector that connects the mainboard to the screen/digitizer is securely fastened, and also make sure that the tiny snap connector that goes from the screen to the digitizer itself is securely fastened as well - this second snap connector is up by the notification LED. I scared myself when I re-assembled everything and my touchscreen didn't respond. Also, when you're working up by the notification LED, there's a small piece of white-ish rubber that sits between the actual LED itself and the little hole where light comes out on the front of the phone. It's crucial that you don't lose this - the LED is a few mm offset from the hole, and this piece of rubber glows and creates the notification light that you see on the front. Without it, no notification light.
Be careful with the mainboard, replacement units are very hard to find and will only get rarer as the D4 ages. It's basically the heart of your phone.
Tweezers and a "safe-open pry tool" (basically a piece of soft plastic to ease apart the pieces of your phone) make this process easier as well.
Another note: there are 2 hidden T5 screws behind the bezel that surrounds the rear camera and flash. When you go to peel this up, you'll probably ruin it - this is poor design IMO, and mostly inevitable. Good news though, replacement camera bezel parts are available online for a few bucks.
All in all, this process isn't difficult, but requires really good light (super bright lamp or headlamp) and will give you a greater appreciation for your phone and how it's both a magical little black box as well as just a collection of shiny bits.
Good luck!!
Khiraji said:
You'll need a torx T5 and T3 driver - DO NOT try to use any substitute drivers if you don't have an official T5 or T3, like I did - you will strip the screws (they strip VERY easily) and you'll need to bust out the dremel to drill/grind away the screw
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Listen to him. I learned this the hard way and that is precisely what I had to do. Taking a dremel to my cell phone... I never want to sweat bullets like that again.
Related
I damaged my Capacitive buttons (flex circuit).
Can anyone recommend where to get a replacement part?
Lol. I did the same thing. Ladies and gentlemen please wait for the plastic tool to arrive in the mail before you start trying to disassemble your streak! I used a screwdriver and it cut through the flexible circuit card. Contemplated fixing it, but there`s five tracks on the circuit board!
I got a quote from an ebay seller in the UK for the capacitive buttons and plastic bezel. 90 pounds plust postage. What a rip off! I ended up buying a complete streak from ebay. It was locked to O2 and had the lcd bleeding problem, but perfect for me. Keep your eye out.
In the meantime, install softkeys from the market. It is a replacement home/settings/back button. A little inconvenient, but keeps you going while you bide your time on evilbay.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
printed circuits
My first streak also has a broken capacitive circuit board, didn't use this plastic tool for disassembling..
Now i use a old modified tooth brush
Was ready to ask a flexible board manufacturer what it would cost to reproduce such a circuit but for now i'm also using softkeys..
Maybe if we get 100 people together who needs one of those capacitive button circuits its worth asking a reproduction?
Thanks for the inputs. I got the key to work again after some fiddling. I'm just waiting for it to inevitably fail. I'll probably just get a new phone when that happens.
how do you get it broken? not that i wanted too, but it sound strange to me
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
Pretty easy... First time pulling it apart, had not seen any videos of the process. Fixit. Com (OR IFIXIT?) wasn't that comprehensive. Of course I was overtired and of course used a small screwdriver instead of a plastic removal tool.
Excuses, excuses. The screwdriver ultimately was the wrong thing.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
Does anyone know where i can buy the Streak front 4 buttons and volume rocker buttons ribbons ?
http://www.dellstreakrepairs.co.uk/spares.html
I broke my capacitive button ribbon cable, anyone have any luck finding replacements? I'm going to try to repair it.
Wheeew, just finished repairing my broken cap buttons. Most nerve-wracking soldering job ever.
I managed to tear through 5 contacts on the flex PCB when disassembling the Streak because I didn't bother to read the obvious warning about this on ifixit Also, I was taking the week-old device apart for no good reason, so I had it bloody coming, really. Anyway, even with a high-quality soldering iron and a stereomicroscope this repair was a massive pain, but it is doable.
I think it should be possible to repair even a completely broken ribbon - I would scrape off the plastic off the ends of the tracks and then glue the underside of both halves of the circuit in place (or tape together if not possible). Then you need to tin the tracks with solder - plenty of flux helps. After that it's the difficult matter of bridging the broken tracks with solder blobs or tiny pieces of wire while not shorting across them. Finally a layer of epoxy to secure it all. Not even worth attempting if you don't have a really good soldering iron and a microscope. Can't use too high a temperature or the plastic melts. I did the repair with the phone assembled fully except for the bottom panel, flex PCB attached to phone - the broken area was still accessible for me and this way reduces the risk of breaking contacts during reassembly.
Hope this helps someone!
Posted in error
is it available now . coz i searched all through the internet and couldnt find the home and back buttons strip .
DashingGentleman said:
Wheeew, just finished repairing my broken cap buttons. Most nerve-wracking soldering job ever.
I managed to tear through 5 contacts on the flex PCB when disassembling the Streak because I didn't bother to read the obvious warning about this on ifixit Also, I was taking the week-old device apart for no good reason, so I had it bloody coming, really. Anyway, even with a high-quality soldering iron and a stereomicroscope this repair was a massive pain, but it is doable.
I think it should be possible to repair even a completely broken ribbon - I would scrape off the plastic off the ends of the tracks and then glue the underside of both halves of the circuit in place (or tape together if not possible). Then you need to tin the tracks with solder - plenty of flux helps. After that it's the difficult matter of bridging the broken tracks with solder blobs or tiny pieces of wire while not shorting across them. Finally a layer of epoxy to secure it all. Not even worth attempting if you don't have a really good soldering iron and a microscope. Can't use too high a temperature or the plastic melts. I did the repair with the phone assembled fully except for the bottom panel, flex PCB attached to phone - the broken area was still accessible for me and this way reduces the risk of breaking contacts during reassembly.
Hope this helps someone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I may attempt this...$40usd for a new assembly is a bit high...
You can find the top/bottom parts on Ebay and on Lingosbox.com
I've purchased some spare parts for other phones on lingosbox - they are not genuine oem parts but for this price, it's a bargain for replacement parts that are rare/difficult to find. There's some delay(15-27days) but everything has arrived without any problem.
good to know someone found it cheaper
So I dropped my nexus today, everything looked ok it turned on and no cracks or anything. But I was using the gps later on and it was making weird sounds. Then the speaker just stopped working. I figured out that I broke a connector on the speaker cause when I press down on the center of the speaker very lightly with back end of a pen it will make sounds.
Can I fix this speaker or should I replace it?
For those of you who have taken apart a nexus how difficult is it to replace the speaker?
Any other advice is welcome too.
Super easy to change the speaker.
Yeah, extremely easy. Remove sim, remove MicroSD, and remove 3 screws from the frame around the battery (2 TORX, 1 phillips). Then use a plastic pry tool, used credit card, or fingernails to pop the plastic frame around the battery up. There are clips along the edge between the metal and plastic frame. Once it's up, pull it out as part of it is tucked under the metal bar at the SIM/microSD area. Speaker is press-fit into the frame. It just makes contact to 2 gold posts with 2 tiny gold springs. Maybe one of those just got dislodged and can be bent back into place, but you can just push the speaker out of the frame to replace it if it's defective.
Thanks for the help, I'm gonna order a replacement speaker and fix it my self.
Hey guys,
I just swapped my silver one to a black shell.
Very simple change over for the most part.
Prior to snapping the back cover on, I made sure to test all functions. They all passed fine. I then snapped on the back and rebooted the phone. The lower speaker no longer played any audio, instead just clicks until the sound finishes. It's incredibly annoying during speaker phone calls. Any idea what it could be, or better yet, is there an app that can force the phone into mono mode with only the top speaker working?
Hey guys,
I just swapped my silver one to a black shell.
Very simple change over for the most part.
Prior to snapping the back cover on, I made sure to test all functions. They all passed fine. I then snapped on the back and rebooted the phone. The lower speaker no longer played any audio, instead just clicks until the sound finishes. It's incredibly annoying during speaker phone calls. Any idea what it could be, or better yet, is there an app that can force the phone into mono mode with only the top speaker working?[/QUOTE]
Alright, took it apart again and inspected it. Found the problem. at the base of the phone there is a ground clip that covers and grounds the usb board to the main board. Directly above that there is a very small connector with a black and red wire in it, those are your lower speaker connector. when reinserting it into the back cover the red wire moved onto the ground plate and wormed its way between it and a spring clip that ground it to the back cover.This spring clip applied enough force to lightly cut the casing thus grounding the positive speaker feed to the phone case. Kinda a b!tch to fix, full disassemble is needed to pull that board out, i then used liquid electrical tape on the damaged spot. Let it dry and reassembled. Now its black and perfect!
I attached a photo of the red wire and its location. Be careful with this area, I was lucky the board or phone didn't short out!
View attachment 2559853
How did you even get it apart??
Iz3man said:
Hey guys,
I just swapped my silver one to a black shell.
Very simple change over for the most part.
Prior to snapping the back cover on, I made sure to test all functions. They all passed fine. I then snapped on the back and rebooted the phone. The lower speaker no longer played any audio, instead just clicks until the sound finishes. It's incredibly annoying during speaker phone calls. Any idea what it could be, or better yet, is there an app that can force the phone into mono mode with only the top speaker working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright, took it apart again and inspected it. Found the problem. at the base of the phone there is a ground clip that covers and grounds the usb board to the main board. Directly above that there is a very small connector with a black and red wire in it, those are your lower speaker connector. when reinserting it into the back cover the red wire moved onto the ground plate and wormed its way between it and a spring clip that ground it to the back cover.This spring clip applied enough force to lightly cut the casing thus grounding the positive speaker feed to the phone case. Kinda a b!tch to fix, full disassemble is needed to pull that board out, i then used liquid electrical tape on the damaged spot. Let it dry and reassembled. Now its black and perfect!
I attached a photo of the red wire and its location. Be careful with this area, I was lucky the board or phone didn't short out!
View attachment 2559853
Wow, you've got some courage man! I really want to convert mine to black, but I'm scared.. Never opened a phone before. Post some pics of the phone please.. Any gaps/other issues?
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
SaHiLzZ said:
How did you even get it apart??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Carefully and with a bit of swearing. The back cover is actually dead simple to take off, if it wasn't for the damned adhesive on the sides. Be prepared to need a new rear cover.
I used 3 different thickness guitar picks and a plastic pry tool ( those blue guys you get when you buy any part out of china). I would recommend heating up the sides to start, if you have a bean bag heating pad, use it, put it in the microwave for 2 mins and sit it on the sim card side of the phone. Because the plastic is a little flexible, I was able to slip a pick between the screen and the sim slot, then pry it upwards and slowly slide the pick toward the bottom of the phone. Once you get a little ways down stop and leave the pick in, take a thicker one and to the same, replacing the first with the new one. Repeat with another, the trick is to apply light bust constant pressure on the glue to break the bond. After a few mins of that and possibly reheating, you should be able to go around the corner and across the bottom. The glue is only of the sides. There are 4 clips of each side and 2 on both the top and bottom.
Make sure that the top assembly comes out from the bottom of the phone first or you risk damaging the power button/ir blaster.
I bought a full screen replacement with back cover from etrade, I also bought an empty shell from eBay, I used the etrade parts, but I'll swap the original screen to the ebay parts tomorrow.
Wow, you've got some courage man! I really want to convert mine to black, but I'm scared.. Never opened a phone before. Post some pics of the phone please.. Any gaps/other issues?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was too, I watched videos, I read the forums. In the end I just grabbed it and tried to see If I could even fit the first pick in, then I got farther and finally got it off. The guts are simple to change over, just be aware that the screws are not interchangeable, so take a piece of paper make notes and keep track of your screws. When I got it rebuilt I was bumbed out at the speaker, but because there is no glue on the new free I was able to get the back off in less then a minute.
I see no gaps or problems. Everything works and the phone looks great, in my opinion they should have never made a white and silver. I'll post some picks when I'm back home tonight.
I followed the videos from Go Cell Phone Repair, he has 2, one is the tear down the other is the reassembly, Google YouTube for them, he was very thorough.
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
kiwironnie said:
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll bet you can find a video on YouTube explaining how to disassemble your device.
I DO NOT PROVIDE HELP IN PM, KEEP IT IN THE THREADS WHERE EVERYONE CAN SHARE
Droidriven said:
I'll bet you can find a video on YouTube explaining how to disassemble your device.
I DO NOT PROVIDE HELP IN PM, KEEP IT IN THE THREADS WHERE EVERYONE CAN SHARE
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already search extensively, no luck so far. Prefer not to 'experiment' and wreck the thing!
kiwironnie said:
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bro check YouTube very well... it there
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I can help you.
kiwironnie said:
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did u fix it? I can help you. I opened the phone like 10+ times.
Hi, I have the same problem, I need to open the phone to replace the camera but did not manage to find anything on youtube. Would u please help me? Thanks
Monster 00 said:
Did u fix it? I can help you. I opened the phone like 10+ times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the later reply Monster. Thought this thread had gone dead!
If you've got some tips about how to open the case without destroying it that would be really helpful.
There's a few videos etc on opening Doogees around (Y6 Max etc) but none that I've found for the Y6, which is quite a different case.
Cheers, Ron
kiwironnie said:
Sorry for the later reply Monster. Thought this thread had gone dead!
If you've got some tips about how to open the case without destroying it that would be really helpful.
There's a few videos etc on opening Doogees around (Y6 Max etc) but none that I've found for the Y6, which is quite a different case.
Cheers, Ron
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So to start take a flat screwdriver. You may turn off the phone it's not necessary. Remove the sim tray. To open the phone read carefully. Don't try to remove the back metal plate, you're doing it all wrong. There is a plastic surround that meets with the glass. You need to insert your flat screwdriver in the corner(I prefer bottom right) of the plastic case/surround and the phone screen must be facing you. Now there is a super thin black plastic that separate the glass and the surround, you need to put your screwdriver between the thin black plastic and the surround (mine is gold). The plastic will wear a little bit but if you do it properly, you won't notice any scratch or paint damage. Put your screwdriver in and pull it apart trying to lift the back cover. Don't be scared but be careful, go until you hear a click then you may use your finger nail or the screwdriver and pass it all around the phone. You will hear many clicks. Don't be scared for the fingerprint sensor because it is stick to the phone. After having done that for the first time you will be able to open the phone like previous phones used to be, that is removing it like a removable back cover using your fingernails. I hope I could do a video. Tell me if you did not understand a thing because I can use my phone only on Saturday and Sunday( exams are near).
Monster 00 said:
So to start take a flat screwdriver. You may turn off the phone it's not necessary. Remove the sim tray. To open the phone read carefully. Don't try to remove the back metal plate, you're doing it all wrong. There is a plastic surround that meets with the glass. You need to insert your flat screwdriver in the corner(I prefer bottom right) of the plastic case/surround and the phone screen must be facing you. Now there is a super thin black plastic that separate the glass and the surround, you need to put your screwdriver between the thin black plastic and the surround (mine is gold). The plastic will wear a little bit but if you do it properly, you won't notice any scratch or paint damage. Put your screwdriver in and pull it apart trying to lift the back cover. Don't be scared but be careful, go until you hear a click then you may use your finger nail or the screwdriver and pass it all around the phone. You will hear many clicks. Don't be scared for the fingerprint sensor because it is stick to the phone. After having done that for the first time you will be able to open the phone like previous phones used to be, that is removing it like a removable back cover using your fingernails. I hope I could do a video. Tell me if you did not understand a thing because I can use my phone only on Saturday and Sunday( exams are near).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brilliant! Thanks Monster. For me you provide a remarkably clear explanation. Used a very small, flat bladed jewellers screwdriver to lever the black plastic surround away until it clicked, just as you describe, then used an old credit card as a helper, to slide along the gap, to separate the metal back from the rest of the phone. Now just need to figure out how to actually make the repair!
Very best of luck with your exams. (so glad to be largely done with such things!)
Best wishes, Ron.
kiwironnie said:
Brilliant! Thanks Monster. For me you provide a remarkably clear explanation. Used a very small, flat bladed jewellers screwdriver to lever the black plastic surround away until it clicked, just as you describe, then used an old credit card as a helper, to slide along the gap, to separate the metal back from the rest of the phone. Now just need to figure out how to actually make the repair!
Very best of luck with your exams. (so glad to be largely done with such things!)
Best wishes, Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was about to make a video to help you. I'm glad you succeeded to open the phone. Now tell me what do you need to repair.
Monster 00 said:
I was about to make a video to help you. I'm glad you succeeded to open the phone. Now tell me what do you need to repair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A video would no doubt be tremendously helpful to others anyway.
The problem with the phone is the micro USB socket is stuffed. The plug is loose and difficult to get a connection, due to continual pushing on it by the USB cover flap on the flexible plastic case that came with the phone. Have cut the flap off but the damage has been done (warning to others!).
At first glance it looks like the circuit board will have to come out to have any reasonable chance of de-soldering the socket.
Cheers Ron.
kiwironnie said:
A video would no doubt be tremendously helpful to others anyway.
The problem with the phone is the micro USB socket is stuffed. The plug is loose and difficult to get a connection, due to continual pushing on it by the USB cover flap on the flexible plastic case that came with the phone. Have cut the flap off but the damage has been done (warning to others!).
At first glance it looks like the circuit board will have to come out to have any reasonable chance of de-soldering the socket.
Cheers Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would prefer replacing the charging board itself. Changing the USB connector seems difficult for me. I can do a teardown video but the problem is the camera. I only have a Samsung galaxy core to make video as I can't take the y6 itself to make a video. The galaxy core does not support focusing while filming and the videos turn out blurry.
Monster 00 said:
I would prefer replacing the charging board itself. Changing the USB connector seems difficult for me. I can do a teardown video but the problem is the camera. I only have a Samsung galaxy core to make video as I can't take the y6 itself to make a video. The galaxy core does not support focusing while filming and the videos turn out blurry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great advice, makes sense. I now see that it is a separate board and that there are several sellers of Doogee Y6 charging boards. So the plan now is to purchase and try to replace the board, perhaps also replacing the USB connector on the old board as a spare.
Do you know if the ribbon cable(s) have a lock, or does it just pull out? Although a video would have been great, some basic advice on removing the board could be a life saver.
kiwironnie said:
Great advice, makes sense. I now see that it is a separate board and that there are several sellers of Doogee Y6 charging boards. So the plan now is to purchase and try to replace the board, perhaps also replacing the USB connector on the old board as a spare.
Do you know if the ribbon cable(s) have a lock, or does it just pull out? Although a video would have been great, some basic advice on removing the board could be a life saver.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try my best to make a video as I can't do it in front of my parents and as I told you I can only get the phone Saturday and Sunday. Today is Sunday, I'll try my best to help you. If I can't make a video then I'll post the instructions here. I forgot if it has a lock or not.
Monster 00 said:
I'll try my best to make a video as I can't do it in front of my parents and as I told you I can only get the phone Saturday and Sunday. Today is Sunday, I'll try my best to help you. If I can't make a video then I'll post the instructions here. I forgot if it has a lock or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again Monster. The part's on order now now. So whatever you manage will be really appreciated. No rush as it's coming from China, at least a couple of weeks away. Cheers Ron.
kiwironnie said:
Thanks again Monster. The part's on order now now. So whatever you manage will be really appreciated. No rush as it's coming from China, at least a couple of weeks away. Cheers Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey I opened the phone and checked the flex cable. It has a lock hidden under some cover, cloth like material. I'm sorry it I won't be able to do a video because it is super blurry. Now that u know how to open the phone you have to unscrew 4 screws at the bottom. After that gently lift the plastic cover because you may damage the speaker and/or the vibrator. You will see the speaker is actually low quality. As for the charging board, it's pretty easy to remove. Once you remove the plastic cover open the lock by gentle lifting the flap and disconnect the cable. I think that you will need to remove the battery too because the cable is too short and maybe be tricky for you to remove it. You must be really carefully when removing the battery. Take a flat object( I used the same flat screwdriver) and try to lift the battery. Make sure not to puncture it. There's a lot of glue underneath. When you remove the battery then it will be easy to remove the cable. There is two clips holding the board in place and you will need to move one of them to take out the board. Mime is a bit damaged but it's OK. The plastic cover protects it. Don't hesistate to ask questions if you don't understand. Thanks.
Monster 00 said:
Hey I opened the phone and checked the flex cable. It has a lock hidden under some cover, cloth like material. I'm sorry it I won't be able to do a video because it is super blurry. Now that u know how to open the phone you have to unscrew 4 screws at the bottom. After that gently lift the plastic cover because you may damage the speaker and/or the vibrator. You will see the speaker is actually low quality. As for the charging board, it's pretty easy to remove. Once you remove the plastic cover open the lock by gentle lifting the flap and disconnect the cable. I think that you will need to remove the battery too because the cable is too short and maybe be tricky for you to remove it. You must be really carefully when removing the battery. Take a flat object( I used the same flat screwdriver) and try to lift the battery. Make sure not to puncture it. There's a lot of glue underneath. When you remove the battery then it will be easy to remove the cable. There is two clips holding the board in place and you will need to move one of them to take out the board. Mime is a bit damaged but it's OK. The plastic cover protects it. Don't hesistate to ask questions if you don't understand. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brilliant, thanks again! No need for a video, as your explanation is very clear and should be obvious to others after they get the back off the phone. Having recently removed a glued battery from a Kindle, it was a hell of an arm wrestle! Hopefully it will be a bit easier with the Y6. I have a flat nylon spudger with a rounded edge, which should be able to lift the battery without puncturing it. Upgrading the speaker at the same time could be a useful hack, if a better one can be found that fits. Although don't know if the impedance is the same for most phone speakers.
Will post results here including any lessons learnt. Cheers Ron.
The replacement usb charge board arrived, purchased from this guy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Origina...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Posting the url as the service was excellent. Very well packed in its own cardboard box and sent by registered post. So I would buy from him again, even if he is a little more expensive than some on AliExpress.
To fit the new board, the case was opened, as described above and the battery removed. To remove the battery, two screws need to be removed from a metal plate covering the battery connector. The battery ribbon cable connector can then be levered up with a small flat screwdriver blade. It's a effectively a plug with a push fit onto the connector so just pops off.
To remove the battery I used an old credit card, sliding it underneath at one edge of the battery, then gently pushing it forward to release the battery bit by bit, from it being glued to the base. This shouldn't need a lot of force and it is important to avoid snagging the ribbon cable that runs under the battery.
The black plastic cover that houses the speaker and covers the charging board was then removed by unscrewing 4 screws. On my phone one screw had a white plastic covering, into which a cross head jewellers screwdriver can be pushed to grip the screw. The charger board was then exposed and the two speaker wires and two wires from the vibrator were unsoldered using a fine tip iron. The plastic cover was then fully removed. The black rubber tape covering the ribbon cable connector was scraped away, the connector unlocked and the ribbon cable removed. The antenna connector attached to the charger board was then levered off using a small flat bladed screwdriver. The charger board itself was then pulled out. It is held in place by tiny plastic tabs on either side and was a bit of a fiddle to remove.
The old charger board has some Kapton or similar tape underneath, which the new board didn't have. So I applied some similar tape to the new board, but this may not be essential. The new board was then fitted back in, again a bit of a fiddle. I found the best way was was to insert the right hand side of the board first under its tab (looking at the inside of the phone from the charger end), with the board rotated slightly anti clockwise, then pushing the left hand side forward (rotating clockwise) and under the left hand tab so that it effectively clicks into place (not much of a click). The rest of assembly was the reverse of disassembly. Soldering the 4 wires (polarity is marked on the board), pushing the ribbon cable squarely into the connector and locking it. Nearly forgot to push the antenna connector back on!
Replaced the back and the new charge board worked perfectly. What a relief! Thanks again to Monster for getting me started. Cheers Ron.
Hello everyone,
I have every tool needed to fix any problems on any mobile phones. But after fixing my y6, I have thought that a T5S would be piece of cake. But it's not.
Any ideas if I can just remove the broken digitizer to attach the new one or is it glued to the LCD like all new Samsung models?
Hi guys,
has anyone of you tried changing the front glass without digitizer and display?
In disassembly videos I can only see people changing the whole thing.
Also, do you think I can manage to repair the front glas as well as the USB port with just an iron instead of a hot air blower (and the usual tools made of plastic)?
Thanks in advance!
kadofl said:
Hi guys,
has anyone of you tried changing the front glass without digitizer and display?
In disassembly videos I can only see people changing the whole thing.
Also, do you think I can manage to repair the front glas as well as the USB port with just an iron instead of a hot air blower (and the usual tools made of plastic)?
Thanks in advance!
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I haven't done the front glass on mine yet, but my understanding is that in general you're really better off replacing front glass as an entire unit with digitizer and display. An iron on pretty low through a cloth/towel might well work. It's not just glue that melts, it's a thin strip of rubber gasket material with adhesive (okay, maybe it's thick glue, but it looked pre-formed to me) holding the glass back cover on.
Heating probably helps a bit with softening the stuff, but after the first time you peel it up you won't really need to do that again. I'd recommend picking a corner (say, bottom left as you're looking at the back) and just plan on prying from there every time, so you only have one spot where the plastic gets marred.
Don't spend too much time heating, worry more about having a suction cup tool that you can lift with while you try to work a guitar pick or hobby knife or something in under the corner. Have at least two ready, so you can wedge one in, and work your way around without it just dropping back down on you. You'll probably tear the material a bit but that's okay, just spread it back out evenly around the edge on the glass before you put the cover back on. Also, you definitely should be using a case to make sure it doesn't just fall off in your pocket once you've opened it up a couple times.
USB cable replacement isn't awful, just time consuming. The biggest gotcha is to keep all three of the little gold clips on the plastic "mid frame" ring (that's the first thing you remove that requires screws after getting the back glass up) from fallling and getting lost.
You can PM me if you have any questions about this, I've replaced my USB cable/port assembly a couple times (first replacement was defective). And I'm about to attempt replacing the screen as a whole unit with glass & digitizer on my wife's Z2 Plus, so I'll let you know how that goes.