How can I remove the back from a Doogee Y6? - Device Repair

Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.

kiwironnie said:
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll bet you can find a video on YouTube explaining how to disassemble your device.
I DO NOT PROVIDE HELP IN PM, KEEP IT IN THE THREADS WHERE EVERYONE CAN SHARE

Droidriven said:
I'll bet you can find a video on YouTube explaining how to disassemble your device.
I DO NOT PROVIDE HELP IN PM, KEEP IT IN THE THREADS WHERE EVERYONE CAN SHARE
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already search extensively, no luck so far. Prefer not to 'experiment' and wreck the thing!

kiwironnie said:
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bro check YouTube very well... it there
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I can help you.
kiwironnie said:
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did u fix it? I can help you. I opened the phone like 10+ times.

Hi, I have the same problem, I need to open the phone to replace the camera but did not manage to find anything on youtube. Would u please help me? Thanks

Monster 00 said:
Did u fix it? I can help you. I opened the phone like 10+ times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the later reply Monster. Thought this thread had gone dead!
If you've got some tips about how to open the case without destroying it that would be really helpful.
There's a few videos etc on opening Doogees around (Y6 Max etc) but none that I've found for the Y6, which is quite a different case.
Cheers, Ron

kiwironnie said:
Sorry for the later reply Monster. Thought this thread had gone dead!
If you've got some tips about how to open the case without destroying it that would be really helpful.
There's a few videos etc on opening Doogees around (Y6 Max etc) but none that I've found for the Y6, which is quite a different case.
Cheers, Ron
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So to start take a flat screwdriver. You may turn off the phone it's not necessary. Remove the sim tray. To open the phone read carefully. Don't try to remove the back metal plate, you're doing it all wrong. There is a plastic surround that meets with the glass. You need to insert your flat screwdriver in the corner(I prefer bottom right) of the plastic case/surround and the phone screen must be facing you. Now there is a super thin black plastic that separate the glass and the surround, you need to put your screwdriver between the thin black plastic and the surround (mine is gold). The plastic will wear a little bit but if you do it properly, you won't notice any scratch or paint damage. Put your screwdriver in and pull it apart trying to lift the back cover. Don't be scared but be careful, go until you hear a click then you may use your finger nail or the screwdriver and pass it all around the phone. You will hear many clicks. Don't be scared for the fingerprint sensor because it is stick to the phone. After having done that for the first time you will be able to open the phone like previous phones used to be, that is removing it like a removable back cover using your fingernails. I hope I could do a video. Tell me if you did not understand a thing because I can use my phone only on Saturday and Sunday( exams are near).

Monster 00 said:
So to start take a flat screwdriver. You may turn off the phone it's not necessary. Remove the sim tray. To open the phone read carefully. Don't try to remove the back metal plate, you're doing it all wrong. There is a plastic surround that meets with the glass. You need to insert your flat screwdriver in the corner(I prefer bottom right) of the plastic case/surround and the phone screen must be facing you. Now there is a super thin black plastic that separate the glass and the surround, you need to put your screwdriver between the thin black plastic and the surround (mine is gold). The plastic will wear a little bit but if you do it properly, you won't notice any scratch or paint damage. Put your screwdriver in and pull it apart trying to lift the back cover. Don't be scared but be careful, go until you hear a click then you may use your finger nail or the screwdriver and pass it all around the phone. You will hear many clicks. Don't be scared for the fingerprint sensor because it is stick to the phone. After having done that for the first time you will be able to open the phone like previous phones used to be, that is removing it like a removable back cover using your fingernails. I hope I could do a video. Tell me if you did not understand a thing because I can use my phone only on Saturday and Sunday( exams are near).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brilliant! Thanks Monster. For me you provide a remarkably clear explanation. Used a very small, flat bladed jewellers screwdriver to lever the black plastic surround away until it clicked, just as you describe, then used an old credit card as a helper, to slide along the gap, to separate the metal back from the rest of the phone. Now just need to figure out how to actually make the repair!
Very best of luck with your exams. (so glad to be largely done with such things!)
Best wishes, Ron.

kiwironnie said:
Brilliant! Thanks Monster. For me you provide a remarkably clear explanation. Used a very small, flat bladed jewellers screwdriver to lever the black plastic surround away until it clicked, just as you describe, then used an old credit card as a helper, to slide along the gap, to separate the metal back from the rest of the phone. Now just need to figure out how to actually make the repair!
Very best of luck with your exams. (so glad to be largely done with such things!)
Best wishes, Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was about to make a video to help you. I'm glad you succeeded to open the phone. Now tell me what do you need to repair.

Monster 00 said:
I was about to make a video to help you. I'm glad you succeeded to open the phone. Now tell me what do you need to repair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A video would no doubt be tremendously helpful to others anyway.
The problem with the phone is the micro USB socket is stuffed. The plug is loose and difficult to get a connection, due to continual pushing on it by the USB cover flap on the flexible plastic case that came with the phone. Have cut the flap off but the damage has been done (warning to others!).
At first glance it looks like the circuit board will have to come out to have any reasonable chance of de-soldering the socket.
Cheers Ron.

kiwironnie said:
A video would no doubt be tremendously helpful to others anyway.
The problem with the phone is the micro USB socket is stuffed. The plug is loose and difficult to get a connection, due to continual pushing on it by the USB cover flap on the flexible plastic case that came with the phone. Have cut the flap off but the damage has been done (warning to others!).
At first glance it looks like the circuit board will have to come out to have any reasonable chance of de-soldering the socket.
Cheers Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would prefer replacing the charging board itself. Changing the USB connector seems difficult for me. I can do a teardown video but the problem is the camera. I only have a Samsung galaxy core to make video as I can't take the y6 itself to make a video. The galaxy core does not support focusing while filming and the videos turn out blurry.

Monster 00 said:
I would prefer replacing the charging board itself. Changing the USB connector seems difficult for me. I can do a teardown video but the problem is the camera. I only have a Samsung galaxy core to make video as I can't take the y6 itself to make a video. The galaxy core does not support focusing while filming and the videos turn out blurry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great advice, makes sense. I now see that it is a separate board and that there are several sellers of Doogee Y6 charging boards. So the plan now is to purchase and try to replace the board, perhaps also replacing the USB connector on the old board as a spare.
Do you know if the ribbon cable(s) have a lock, or does it just pull out? Although a video would have been great, some basic advice on removing the board could be a life saver.

kiwironnie said:
Great advice, makes sense. I now see that it is a separate board and that there are several sellers of Doogee Y6 charging boards. So the plan now is to purchase and try to replace the board, perhaps also replacing the USB connector on the old board as a spare.
Do you know if the ribbon cable(s) have a lock, or does it just pull out? Although a video would have been great, some basic advice on removing the board could be a life saver.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try my best to make a video as I can't do it in front of my parents and as I told you I can only get the phone Saturday and Sunday. Today is Sunday, I'll try my best to help you. If I can't make a video then I'll post the instructions here. I forgot if it has a lock or not.

Monster 00 said:
I'll try my best to make a video as I can't do it in front of my parents and as I told you I can only get the phone Saturday and Sunday. Today is Sunday, I'll try my best to help you. If I can't make a video then I'll post the instructions here. I forgot if it has a lock or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again Monster. The part's on order now now. So whatever you manage will be really appreciated. No rush as it's coming from China, at least a couple of weeks away. Cheers Ron.

kiwironnie said:
Thanks again Monster. The part's on order now now. So whatever you manage will be really appreciated. No rush as it's coming from China, at least a couple of weeks away. Cheers Ron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey I opened the phone and checked the flex cable. It has a lock hidden under some cover, cloth like material. I'm sorry it I won't be able to do a video because it is super blurry. Now that u know how to open the phone you have to unscrew 4 screws at the bottom. After that gently lift the plastic cover because you may damage the speaker and/or the vibrator. You will see the speaker is actually low quality. As for the charging board, it's pretty easy to remove. Once you remove the plastic cover open the lock by gentle lifting the flap and disconnect the cable. I think that you will need to remove the battery too because the cable is too short and maybe be tricky for you to remove it. You must be really carefully when removing the battery. Take a flat object( I used the same flat screwdriver) and try to lift the battery. Make sure not to puncture it. There's a lot of glue underneath. When you remove the battery then it will be easy to remove the cable. There is two clips holding the board in place and you will need to move one of them to take out the board. Mime is a bit damaged but it's OK. The plastic cover protects it. Don't hesistate to ask questions if you don't understand. Thanks.

Monster 00 said:
Hey I opened the phone and checked the flex cable. It has a lock hidden under some cover, cloth like material. I'm sorry it I won't be able to do a video because it is super blurry. Now that u know how to open the phone you have to unscrew 4 screws at the bottom. After that gently lift the plastic cover because you may damage the speaker and/or the vibrator. You will see the speaker is actually low quality. As for the charging board, it's pretty easy to remove. Once you remove the plastic cover open the lock by gentle lifting the flap and disconnect the cable. I think that you will need to remove the battery too because the cable is too short and maybe be tricky for you to remove it. You must be really carefully when removing the battery. Take a flat object( I used the same flat screwdriver) and try to lift the battery. Make sure not to puncture it. There's a lot of glue underneath. When you remove the battery then it will be easy to remove the cable. There is two clips holding the board in place and you will need to move one of them to take out the board. Mime is a bit damaged but it's OK. The plastic cover protects it. Don't hesistate to ask questions if you don't understand. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brilliant, thanks again! No need for a video, as your explanation is very clear and should be obvious to others after they get the back off the phone. Having recently removed a glued battery from a Kindle, it was a hell of an arm wrestle! Hopefully it will be a bit easier with the Y6. I have a flat nylon spudger with a rounded edge, which should be able to lift the battery without puncturing it. Upgrading the speaker at the same time could be a useful hack, if a better one can be found that fits. Although don't know if the impedance is the same for most phone speakers.
Will post results here including any lessons learnt. Cheers Ron.

The replacement usb charge board arrived, purchased from this guy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Origina...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Posting the url as the service was excellent. Very well packed in its own cardboard box and sent by registered post. So I would buy from him again, even if he is a little more expensive than some on AliExpress.
To fit the new board, the case was opened, as described above and the battery removed. To remove the battery, two screws need to be removed from a metal plate covering the battery connector. The battery ribbon cable connector can then be levered up with a small flat screwdriver blade. It's a effectively a plug with a push fit onto the connector so just pops off.
To remove the battery I used an old credit card, sliding it underneath at one edge of the battery, then gently pushing it forward to release the battery bit by bit, from it being glued to the base. This shouldn't need a lot of force and it is important to avoid snagging the ribbon cable that runs under the battery.
The black plastic cover that houses the speaker and covers the charging board was then removed by unscrewing 4 screws. On my phone one screw had a white plastic covering, into which a cross head jewellers screwdriver can be pushed to grip the screw. The charger board was then exposed and the two speaker wires and two wires from the vibrator were unsoldered using a fine tip iron. The plastic cover was then fully removed. The black rubber tape covering the ribbon cable connector was scraped away, the connector unlocked and the ribbon cable removed. The antenna connector attached to the charger board was then levered off using a small flat bladed screwdriver. The charger board itself was then pulled out. It is held in place by tiny plastic tabs on either side and was a bit of a fiddle to remove.
The old charger board has some Kapton or similar tape underneath, which the new board didn't have. So I applied some similar tape to the new board, but this may not be essential. The new board was then fitted back in, again a bit of a fiddle. I found the best way was was to insert the right hand side of the board first under its tab (looking at the inside of the phone from the charger end), with the board rotated slightly anti clockwise, then pushing the left hand side forward (rotating clockwise) and under the left hand tab so that it effectively clicks into place (not much of a click). The rest of assembly was the reverse of disassembly. Soldering the 4 wires (polarity is marked on the board), pushing the ribbon cable squarely into the connector and locking it. Nearly forgot to push the antenna connector back on!
Replaced the back and the new charge board worked perfectly. What a relief! Thanks again to Monster for getting me started. Cheers Ron.

Hello everyone,
I have every tool needed to fix any problems on any mobile phones. But after fixing my y6, I have thought that a T5S would be piece of cake. But it's not.
Any ideas if I can just remove the broken digitizer to attach the new one or is it glued to the LCD like all new Samsung models?

Related

Replacing ear piece speaker (complication?)

So I'm in the process of replacing the ear piece speaker. It has always acted up but finally completely went out when I dropped the phone today. Tore the phone apart and pulled the bad one out, and put it back together, so for the time being it's a phone with no speaker, but strangely now the rear camera doesn't work either.
So I'm curious, maybe I still don't have the ribbon cable from the camera seated correctly. But do you think maybe the camera and speaker are on the same circuit and without the speaker in there the camera won't work?
The ear piece not working can usually be fixed by bending the metal pins. I've managed to fix3 Droid's this way. that being said, I don't think the camera has anything to do with the ear piece.
Check if you've inserted the ribbon properly. The ribbon goes in pretty deep. It's easy to make a mistake when connecting the ribbon.
You wouldn't have some instructions for that procedure, do you? Or is there an iFixit video? Have the same problem with the speaker.
Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk now Free
Bumping this old thread in the event that someone in the future finds it useful. Obviously, replacing the speaker will VOID YOUR WARRANTY in every way possible, and if you're not careful will ruin your phone! But, if you're like me, your D4 is long out of warranty and it'll be a cold day in hell before you give up your keyboard.
That being said, I just replaced the speaker in my D4, after the stock speaker fizzled and died after almost 2 years. Every now and then it would "fuzz out" and I'd gently tap the phone against my head (which I'm sure looked quite comical) and it would stop. Finally the speaker gave up the ghost entirely and it was nearly impossible to hear. I used resources from this site to guide me in taking it apart.
You'll need a torx T5 and T3 driver - DO NOT try to use any substitute drivers if you don't have an official T5 or T3, like I did - you will strip the screws (they strip VERY easily) and you'll need to bust out the dremel to drill/grind away the screw, or buy a whole new LCD/digitizer assembly for $~70 (which, as of this posting, are getting harder to find). You might think that you can fudge it with an eyeglass repair flathead driver, but you can't. Trust me. T3 and T5 drivers are cheap online, do it right.
For the actual replacement speaker itself, I got a speaker for a Nokia Lumia 610 on ebay for about 4 bucks (free shipping!). It's almost identical to the stock D4 speaker, but it looks to be a little better quality and the actual place where noise comes out looks to be ever so slightly bigger. It "sits" in a little pocket in the outer housing/screen digitizer, held in place by the flex cable. You'll see once you get there.
Make sure both the dual snap connector that connects the mainboard to the screen/digitizer is securely fastened, and also make sure that the tiny snap connector that goes from the screen to the digitizer itself is securely fastened as well - this second snap connector is up by the notification LED. I scared myself when I re-assembled everything and my touchscreen didn't respond. Also, when you're working up by the notification LED, there's a small piece of white-ish rubber that sits between the actual LED itself and the little hole where light comes out on the front of the phone. It's crucial that you don't lose this - the LED is a few mm offset from the hole, and this piece of rubber glows and creates the notification light that you see on the front. Without it, no notification light.
Be careful with the mainboard, replacement units are very hard to find and will only get rarer as the D4 ages. It's basically the heart of your phone.
Tweezers and a "safe-open pry tool" (basically a piece of soft plastic to ease apart the pieces of your phone) make this process easier as well.
Another note: there are 2 hidden T5 screws behind the bezel that surrounds the rear camera and flash. When you go to peel this up, you'll probably ruin it - this is poor design IMO, and mostly inevitable. Good news though, replacement camera bezel parts are available online for a few bucks.
All in all, this process isn't difficult, but requires really good light (super bright lamp or headlamp) and will give you a greater appreciation for your phone and how it's both a magical little black box as well as just a collection of shiny bits.
Good luck!!
Khiraji said:
You'll need a torx T5 and T3 driver - DO NOT try to use any substitute drivers if you don't have an official T5 or T3, like I did - you will strip the screws (they strip VERY easily) and you'll need to bust out the dremel to drill/grind away the screw
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Listen to him. I learned this the hard way and that is precisely what I had to do. Taking a dremel to my cell phone... I never want to sweat bullets like that again.

Broke a flap, bit stuck inside.

I broke off the USB port cover and the little bobble off the flap is still stuck inside the handset. I've tried digging with a pin but can't get it out.
What's the best thing to do?
Remove the rear cover?
"If it's broke, use a hammer. If that fails, you're not using a big enough hammer."
Sorry i had too
also try needle nose tweezers
but if you play on replacing them yourself, i think you would have to open the back aither way
Kirkymole said:
I broke off the USB port cover and the little bobble off the flap is still stuck inside the handset. I've tried digging with a pin but can't get it out.
What's the best thing to do?
Remove the rear cover?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As murphyslaw just said use very slim tweezers, or something to hook the rubber feet and pull it out, there are videos on youtube for this.
Kirkymole said:
I broke off the USB port cover and the little bobble off the flap is still stuck inside the handset. I've tried digging with a pin but can't get it out.
What's the best thing to do?
Remove the rear cover?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't remove the rear cover. All spare parts of Xperia Z1 are glued together tightly. It is very hard to separate them.
There is no guarantee that you can keep the waterproof as before.
Install a new one directly if the bit dose not interfere.
If you must need to dig it out, needle or pin and patience is what you need.
LotoTutu said:
Don't remove the rear cover. All spare parts of Xperia Z1 are glued together tightly. It is very hard to separate them.
There is no guarantee that you can keep the waterproof as before.
Install a new one directly if the bit dose not interfere.
If you must need to dig it out, needle or pin and patience is what you need.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got no problems with the waterproofing side, we have more waterproof products than Sony could ever get their hands on at work lol

OEM LCD/Digitzer? i need your input - i love my LG G2

lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
gunemalli said:
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am looking for the LCD and digitizer assembly. but i am trying to find OEM part
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
housing is not an issue
Lttlwing16 said:
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
i bought one
squee666 said:
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i did buy one from ebay today, after been an annoying person with lots of questions hahaha. i refused to buy from anyone below 99% profile credential on ebay. here are the questions i asked lol
Is the LCD screen manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store? if not, is the same Quality, TRUE IPS LCD with Gorilla Glass 2 digitizer?
Is this LCD part brand new or refurbished from reclaimed old parts?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel new or refurbished, or reclaimed from old parts?
and if I bought a brand new in box sealed G2 from LG, the part I’m asking about would be 100% identical with no differences in quality or condition?
does it work on D800 model, if not do you have one that works with D800 that is a genuine OEM?
is it OEM (Original equipment manufacturer), does it have part number on the flex cable, and LG display co,ltd label ?
only one seller, answered all of them concisely, without political correctness or avoidance. lots of them stopped talking to me, and some only answered vaguely. i had one hilarious response, who said the the screen is OEM but not genuine, i insisted for him to elaborate, he said OEM but not original. all of us know that OEM stands for Original equipment manufacturer. i sent him a response, that it does not make sense to be OEM but not original. he replied back OEM for them is, Optical equipment manufacturer lol, heck i do not even know what does that mean lol. i took a screenshot of the definition and sent it to him, he never replied back hahaha. many shady seller on ebay
P.s once i receive the part and install it, i will update on the condition/quality
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Link
noris08 said:
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251591046010?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
working
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
sdcaliber said:
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
jamracer said:
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
sdcaliber said:
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
jamracer said:
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
sshark said:
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah maybe, all depends of course. most of these products are subject to opinions if there is doubt about their OEM legitimacy. but for me, i will not buy non OEM for battery again, it scares the hell out of me. let's say i had a horrible experience before. i had Note 3, and bought a battery for it. the extra capacity made me drools lol, so i went with it. days later, i found the phone in total meltdown, literally. woke up from my sleep, and the phone is melting/fire.... scary scary experience. the good thing, i do not sleep while my phone next to me. it was on my table, charging.
side not: the original battery of Note 3 malfunctioned
OEM
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought it on Ebay and now it´s working fine, nice!!.. First I bought only the digitizer and it was faulting, but now this assembly is really working fine:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281280382756?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Regards,
Just posting to share my experience. I bought a replacement lcd\digitizer for my G2. Once installed, i had white lines going up and down the screen.
Some devices use different panel hardware (JDI instead of LGIT) and you will have white lines after using patched kernel. You must use those kernel with "_jdi" in its name. More info:http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...&postcount=122
After flashing the new kernal the phone works great. The phone does get noticeably hotter, unfortunately, which is a little worrisome.
The kernal issue and the heat lead me to believe that what i bought was not oem.
Sent from my LG-D801 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Is D800 frame compatible with LS980?
sdcaliber said:
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was just working on a frame lcd assembly swap on an LS980 rev 1. The frame I bought was a Verizon LV980 and the vibrator was off buy at least 3mm, I didn't mind losing the vibrator to gain a good lcd. Then the proximity detector layout was different, the LS980 had an extra piece that fit in a hole, but it could be removed. About 5mm below that is a ground connector for the motherboard on the LS980 but not on the VS980 and the tab holding the antenna coax hit the motherboard making the frame about 0.5mm too small causing the mobo not to seat.
All of these could be amended. Shave 0.5mm of the soft metal chassis, very easy, mobo grounds in at least six other places and proximity sensor had a removable tab.
But the bottom of the chassis where the dock port/usb board sits was just too different, the LS980 daughterboard wouldn't seat, it was larger. It could be forced but only at an angle that made the usb port off-center and not parallel to the opening. My repair stopped and re-assembled the phone with the LS980 chassis complete with my damaged lcd.
-----attached pics of proximity sensor, and ground connector area, didn't take more, I was getting mad.
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually I bought an LCD from this company. I am very happy with it. It is true HD and the it was shipped for me in 3 days as they said. At first I was very worried with the comments but I took the risk and I am satisfied with it. I don't know why others complain about it but I recommend them.

Bottom speaker replacement.

Has anybody replaced the bottom speaker before? Google hasn't been able to find me any guides on how to do it. Ifixit implies that it is soldered to the motherboard, but another repair site says it can be pried off.
hecksagon said:
Ifixit implies that it is soldered to the motherboard, but another repair site says it can be pried off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ifixit is usually right. Also, if something is surface-mount soldered to the board... Yes, you can pry it off... No you wouldn't be able to solder a new one on without the right tools and skills.
I'm hoping it's more like wedged between the board and the grille. Even if it's not it can't be more than a couple leads to solder.
Just replaced it. Very straight forward if you have ever had the phone apart. It is glued down to the motherboard and has contact pins on the backside of it. When I removed the broken one it took the adhesive with it. I used a thin film of super glue to get the new one to stick. If there is anybody else considering replacing the bottom speaker I would be willing to write up a guide. Considering how little info I have found on this I don't think its something many people do.
hecksagon said:
Just replaced it. Very straight forward if you have ever had the phone apart. It is glued down to the motherboard and has contact pins on the backside of it. When I removed the broken one it took the adhesive with it. I used a thin film of super glue to get the new one to stick. If there is anybody else considering replacing the bottom speaker I would be willing to write up a guide. Considering how little info I have found on this I don't think its something many people do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have a need at the moment, but it would be nice to have the write up available just in case.
hecksagon said:
Just replaced it. Very straight forward if you have ever had the phone apart. It is glued down to the motherboard and has contact pins on the backside of it. When I removed the broken one it took the adhesive with it. I used a thin film of super glue to get the new one to stick. If there is anybody else considering replacing the bottom speaker I would be willing to write up a guide. Considering how little info I have found on this I don't think its something many people do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have to do the same on mine, bottom speaker not working. Is it visible ones you remove mid frame?
Yes once the midframe is removed it is very obvious where it is. It will be the largest component on the PCB at the bottom of the device. It is held down with some adhesive and uses contact pins for the connection. It was very easy to remove and replace. If you buy a replacement on eBay you may get a damaged one like I did. It appeared dented and crackles when it is installed. I was going to send it back but just never got around to it. I will be picking up another speaker and replacing it again.
hecksagon said:
Yes once the midframe is removed it is very obvious where it is. It will be the largest component on the PCB at the bottom of the device. It is held down with some adhesive and uses contact pins for the connection. It was very easy to remove and replace. If you buy a replacement on eBay you may get a damaged one like I did. It appeared dented and crackles when it is installed. I was going to send it back but just never got around to it. I will be picking up another speaker and replacing it again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, going to order one on ebay and hope it doesn't come damage. Good luck with the replacement.
hecksagon said:
Just replaced it. Very straight forward if you have ever had the phone apart. It is glued down to the motherboard and has contact pins on the backside of it. When I removed the broken one it took the adhesive with it. I used a thin film of super glue to get the new one to stick. If there is anybody else considering replacing the bottom speaker I would be willing to write up a guide. Considering how little info I have found on this I don't think its something many people do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are the top and bottom speakers the same part? I'm seeing tons of top speakers online but very few for the bottom, anybody got a part # by chance?
No, bottom speaker is different from the top. I don't see part numbers listed but if your search term includes lower you should find it. Anything labeled earpiece is upper.

Broken front glass (& usb port) - replacement?

Hi guys,
has anyone of you tried changing the front glass without digitizer and display?
In disassembly videos I can only see people changing the whole thing.
Also, do you think I can manage to repair the front glas as well as the USB port with just an iron instead of a hot air blower (and the usual tools made of plastic)?
Thanks in advance!
kadofl said:
Hi guys,
has anyone of you tried changing the front glass without digitizer and display?
In disassembly videos I can only see people changing the whole thing.
Also, do you think I can manage to repair the front glas as well as the USB port with just an iron instead of a hot air blower (and the usual tools made of plastic)?
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't done the front glass on mine yet, but my understanding is that in general you're really better off replacing front glass as an entire unit with digitizer and display. An iron on pretty low through a cloth/towel might well work. It's not just glue that melts, it's a thin strip of rubber gasket material with adhesive (okay, maybe it's thick glue, but it looked pre-formed to me) holding the glass back cover on.
Heating probably helps a bit with softening the stuff, but after the first time you peel it up you won't really need to do that again. I'd recommend picking a corner (say, bottom left as you're looking at the back) and just plan on prying from there every time, so you only have one spot where the plastic gets marred.
Don't spend too much time heating, worry more about having a suction cup tool that you can lift with while you try to work a guitar pick or hobby knife or something in under the corner. Have at least two ready, so you can wedge one in, and work your way around without it just dropping back down on you. You'll probably tear the material a bit but that's okay, just spread it back out evenly around the edge on the glass before you put the cover back on. Also, you definitely should be using a case to make sure it doesn't just fall off in your pocket once you've opened it up a couple times.
USB cable replacement isn't awful, just time consuming. The biggest gotcha is to keep all three of the little gold clips on the plastic "mid frame" ring (that's the first thing you remove that requires screws after getting the back glass up) from fallling and getting lost.
You can PM me if you have any questions about this, I've replaced my USB cable/port assembly a couple times (first replacement was defective). And I'm about to attempt replacing the screen as a whole unit with glass & digitizer on my wife's Z2 Plus, so I'll let you know how that goes.

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