Original posts here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=52559
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I tried to Hard Reset my XDA IIi as one day right half of the screen was not responding to stylus. Now major problem as it is stuck on Align screen. Tried many times to hard reboot it but the same problem. Then I drained both batteries but the problem is there. Now I tried starting it up while pressing at the same time power button, action button and soft reset button. I am getting a dimmed screen which says Serial and at the bottom v1.01 nothingelse.
It synchronises with my PC and I can see the files are there but no idea as to why it will not start.
HELP, PLEASE!
upsbsh
Location: UK
Device(s): XDA IIi 1.60.50
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Most strange death of XDA IIi
Also some other reports on other models:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?p=285578&highlight=#285578
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=50142&highlight=align
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=48540&highlight=align
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=27054&highlight=align
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=37570&highlight=align
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=5548&highlight=align
Hang on... You put your device into bootloader mode, docked it and it synced ok and let you see your files? That doesn't sound right at all. When I put my Alpine into bootloader mode (when I was updating the Radio firmware once upon a time) once the phone was in bootloader mode (with the plain black Version 1.01 text on a blank screen) I couldn't sync my device or see any of the files held in RAM, so it sounds like there's really something wrong with your unit.
Have you tried (re)installing the same version of firmware, see if that does the job? It sounds like a deep-rooted software issue....
well, in bootloader mode, nothing to see of course. however, while stuck in the dead-loop of 'aligh screen', synchroniser still works and you can see everything inside! strange!!! beats me.
i tried before to detach the battery for a few hours so as to drain the backup battery. it didn't work for me. shall post again if it works for me if i leave it longer...
i reloaded 1.11.162 and 1.11.172 rom rom o2 and also the o2-stripped version with 1.04 radio, respectively, but none worked...
don't know if wm5 would help, but it's not available for IIi.
:evil:
Beginning to sound like you have a hardware fault then, if you've tried multiple different firmwares on fresh installs... Is the device still in warranty?
christopherwoods said:
Beginning to sound like you have a hardware fault then, if you've tried multiple different firmwares on fresh installs... Is the device still in warranty?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
had the same problem before..located the problem..and guess what..the screen is screwed..your only remedy is to replace the screen..damn costly as well..or dump the pda and get a new one ...
christopherwoods said:
Beginning to sound like you have a hardware fault then, if you've tried multiple different firmwares on fresh installs... Is the device still in warranty?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
had the same problem before..located the problem..and guess what..the screen is screwed..your only remedy is to replace the screen..damn costly as well..or dump the pda and get a new one ...
dvng said:
had the same problem before..located the problem..and guess what..the screen is screwed..your only remedy is to replace the screen..damn costly as well..or dump the pda and get a new one ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, an insightful technical answer there then....and it's also a wrong one.
The failure of the digitiser overlay could be down to foreign objects stuck between the screen and the casing rim ( crumbs, solid dust etc etc), or warping / damage to the pressure sensitive overlay - look for scratches or 'puddle' areas on the screen that *look* like water between the sections - these are where the overlay is touching the digitiser glass and if this happens then the screen cannot calibrate as the pressure is not uniform. Heat can also warp the plastic overlay. Or, the connection between the overlay ribbon and screen ribbon could have become loose / broken.
In all instances if the digitiser is damaged you do NOT need an entire screen if the display is still working - you need to open the phone, remove the digitiser frame from the LCD assembly, source a new one and solder back on.
Digitisers are about £35 or so when they come up on ebay, I source mine from PDA's with broken LCD's - if you cannot get the exact type most of a similar size can be made to work - there are only 4 connections.
Now it may be difficult for the novice to do or hard to find a digitiser, but a 'new screen' is NOT the only option in this case just becuase *you* cannot do it or hadn't thought of it.
Richard.
Interesting that, because on my PDA I had that "water" effect in the centre of the screen (where I just bunged my Alpine in my pocket, and it got pushed against my thigh) - I put a screen cover on mine, and it seems to have solved the problem - it must be the even amount of surface tension applied across the top screen surface which has gradually pulled it away from the digitiser overlay layer, solving the problem.
I never had any accuracy problems anyway, and I succesfully realigned my screen a few times (just because I like tweaking) to see if it made a difference with the screen making contact with the digitiser overlay, and it always worked fine - but buying a £5 screen protector and seeing if that makes a difference could be a cheaper alternative to getting a new digitiser overlay.
[edit] Woop! 200th post. Time to crack open a beer [/edit]
fluffcat1 said:
dvng said:
had the same problem before..located the problem..and guess what..the screen is screwed..your only remedy is to replace the screen..damn costly as well..or dump the pda and get a new one ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, an insightful technical answer there then....and it's also a wrong one.
The failure of the digitiser overlay could be down to foreign objects stuck between the screen and the casing rim ( crumbs, solid dust etc etc), or warping / damage to the pressure sensitive overlay - look for scratches or 'puddle' areas on the screen that *look* like water between the sections - these are where the overlay is touching the digitiser glass and if this happens then the screen cannot calibrate as the pressure is not uniform. Heat can also warp the plastic overlay. Or, the connection between the overlay ribbon and screen ribbon could have become loose / broken.
In all instances if the digitiser is damaged you do NOT need an entire screen if the display is still working - you need to open the phone, remove the digitiser frame from the LCD assembly, source a new one and solder back on.
Digitisers are about £35 or so when they come up on ebay, I source mine from PDA's with broken LCD's - if you cannot get the exact type most of a similar size can be made to work - there are only 4 connections.
Now it may be difficult for the novice to do or hard to find a digitiser, but a 'new screen' is NOT the only option in this case just becuase *you* cannot do it or hadn't thought of it.
Richard.[/quote
actuallly..before i concluded that the screen was screwed..i have tried all the options that was mentioned by you..the digitiser overlay is not easily fixed or replaceable..in fact i have opened up the casing..clean it and also check the ribbon connectors in case it was loose..someone have tried to remove the digitiser and failed as the digitiser glass is extremely brittle and cracked whislt removing it..digitisers are also hard to come by and apparently they dont sell them separately now..only source is from a used lcd screen..the most convenient after all failed way was actually to replace the screen..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dvng said:
actuallly..before i concluded that the screen was screwed..i have tried all the options that was mentioned by you..the digitiser overlay is not easily fixed or replaceable..in fact i have opened up the casing..clean it and also check the ribbon connectors in case it was loose..someone have tried to remove the digitiser and failed as the digitiser glass is extremely brittle and cracked whislt removing it..digitisers are also hard to come by and apparently they dont sell them separately now..only source is from a used lcd screen..the most convenient after all failed way was actually to replace the screen..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, they're all over ebay from taiwan for about £25 plus postage but this is just the overlay with glass not the frame, and they *are* easy to fit - I've done a how to guide I'll post later. You don't need to remove the old one in one piece to fit the new one....
You said a new screen was 'the only remedy' - it isn't.
Richard
Interesting, interesting - I look forward to seeing that guide!
Hello,
I have the same problem described above, so my XDA2i is
stuck on the first screen align window and can't go over...
I wish to buy only the digitizer from an ebay user, but I have some questions:
-is the digitizer solded on the LCD?
-are the digitizer and the LCD two single parts?
-there's an howTo guide to disassemble the XDA2i?
thanks
Alessandro
Hello everyone!
I actually managed to change the digitizer of the LCD of XDA II. To answer the previous questions first:
Yes - the digitizer can be separated from LCD, although it is not easy. I used an old fashioned razor blade to do it, since these are very,very thin and do not put excessive pressure onto the digitizer screen during the pressure. The digitizer is made of very fragile glass panel and glued onto LCD with a double sided sellotape (at least looks like it, when removed..) Glue is very sticky and I had to take great care not to brake the old digitizer - took me 2h to remove it. In general braking the old one is not really a big deal as long as the LCD itself is not damaged by the sharp edges of the digitizer glass. Since the risk is there I figured I'd spend a bit more time on removal but at least be sure about a positive outcome of the project. There was a certain screen protector on my device, not installed by me since I acquired the gadget on e-bay. I took care of removing it from digitizer first and only then proceeded to remove the digitizer from LCD.
The digitizer has 4 connections soldered to the LCD. Opening the soldered contacts is simple, if one has any background in soldering at all. The difficult part is to remove the digitizer from LCD, really. Another difficult part seemed to be the soldering of the new one. There are XDA digitizers on the ebay, they do not have the same contact as the XDA manufactured ones so the really difficult part was figuring out how to create the contact. The old one had 4 contacts soldered in a small rectangle going clockwise from lowest left towards lowest right..
The solution does not look exactly elegant, but who cares how the gadget looks on the inside, as long as it works! The 4 contact block of the newly bought digitizer was divided into 4 separate hair-thin contacts and the two outermost contacts (those that come on the left lowest corner and right lowest corner of the small rectangle connection) were soldered first, then a bit of an isolation tape (a simple synthetic tape used for paper repairs et cetera) was applied over the freshly soldered contacts to prevent short circuiting. After that the two upper contacts were soldered and those covered with another piece of tape.
The new digitizer came with double sided tape as well, so after careful alignment it was easy to glue it in the place of the old one. The main thing during this process is to clean the LCD and digitizer from all dirt and fingerprints, I used alchol for that - vodka, to be exact. I reapplied the screen protector to the casing before putting the complete lcd+digitizer block into the device, but I suppose not all screen protectors can be reapplied that easily..
In the end the connection looked crazy but in principle all was as should be and after the reassembly the device was 100% alive again with the screen aligning properly! It was certainly a risky business but I bought the faulty XDA for 60GBP and the digitizer for 10GBP, 70GBP for a fully working XDA is a bargain I think, not to mention an excellent adrenaline rush during some moments of the project
I can provide the pictures of the finished connection if needed, it will require me to disassemble my Alpine again though..
I'd definitely find some photos useful - stick em up on flickr for us please, thanks
Excellent to hear that you got it all sorted, and got a bargain out of it. I don't think my wobbly soldering iron skills would be quite up to what you managed to achieve (usually I end up cauterising more skin than I do soldering wires whenever I have to solder as part of my Uni course, it's a bit of a love/hate relationship between me and soldering irons... I love to hate them).
OK, my apologies for the quality of pictures - smartphones are not too great in this respect and I do not have a digital camera. The big grainy one is my XDA - notice the medusa-like wire cluster next to the shiny manufacturers soldering The second picture shows the actual digitizer that was installed, here note the connector - that had to be divided by scalpel.
Excellent mate, thanks very much.
Congratulations on that, TommyGun! (Labi, ka ir Jc )
Indeed, without a good friend and solderer Johnc, who himself uses mere "phone" all this might have gone otherwise Hail to soldermasters!
Dissamble O2 XDA 2i
Hello all
I've got this problem with my old trust O2 XDA 2i now. I cannot get past the alignment screen at the momemt.
Looks like I would have to disassemble it now and replace the digitiser.. Would a clean up help or should I try to completely replace the digitiser?
Any guide/ steps to disassemble the XDA 2i would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Kunal
I've cracked the outer layer of glass on my optimus x2 which I assume is just the digitizer (I'm new to all this smartphone jazz but i've had alot of experience with building computers and such and i can follow instructions) and i'm guessing the cheapest way to repair this thing is to do it myself. I emailed LG asking about what they can do with it and they were asking for £20 just to look at the damn thing so i can't imagine actually doing any work on it would be cheap.
(can't post links but it was just some cheap generic one from amazon for £30)
I'm guessing something like this would do the job but I also need some special adhesive to get the LCD to stick to the digitizer am i right? I'm worried that it will not be as responsive or i'll do it wrong and i only recently dished out £250 for this so i'd like to try and do this right. I've watched a couple of videos on youtube which have helped a bit but none went right through the process so if anyone with any experience doing this could tell me about it i'd be very grateful.
its not that hard. everything just peels off when heated with a hair drier.
the digitzer should come with sticky strips which go around the outside of the lcd and stick to the out side of the digitizer.
Also try to get a digitizer with a frame already on it. otherwise youll have a little bit of a hard time trying to remove the glass from the frame, then gluing in the new one with adhesive.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K77Xepb6yd8
Just follow this guide exactly, you should be fine man
Supupa said:
its not that hard. everything just peels off when heated with a hair drier.
the digitzer should come with sticky strips which go around the outside of the lcd and stick to the out side of the digitizer.
Also try to get a digitizer with a frame already on it. otherwise youll have a little bit of a hard time trying to remove the glass from the frame, then gluing in the new one with adhesive.
Just follow this guide exactly, you should be fine man
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply, that's a lot of help Could you recommend any retailer that sells these? I can't work out if any of the ones i'm looking at come with the sticky strips. Would I also not need any adhesive if it comes with the frame? I'm not sure I trust myself too much with doing that either.....
I recently replaced my digitizer. I ordered a digitizer already in housing off ebay, shipped from Hong Kong. I would strongly recommend buying it with housing, as it's often difficult to completely make sure that dust does not get between the digitizer and the screen when you're using adhesive tape.
When disassemblying the o2x, I found the adhesive sticking the LCD to the digitizer frame was too strong for the LCD to come off just like that (be careful, it's quite fragile). I heated the LCD a bit using a hair dryer, to make it come of easier. This has the added effect that enough adhesive may stick to the LCD, so you don't need to replace it when placing it in the new frame.
I only added a couple of adhesive strips to the top and bottom of the new frame before mouting the LCD. That was pretty stupid, cause the extra 0.1mm between the digitizer and the LCD means that when tilting the phone ~60 degrees to the sides, I can see the backlights at the sides of the screen. Surprisingly this doesn't seem to add any noticeable backlight bleeding though, so it's not a problem at all. However, I'd suggest to try and see if the LCD sticks to the frame with the old adhesive, before using adhesive strips. And if using adhesive strips, make sure you remove all the old adhesive from the LCD, and use adhesive strips all around the frame.
The only minor things to look out for are:
- Be very careful with the LCD! It takes very little flexing before getting dead stripes/areas.
- Careful with the plastic at the USB port - it's a bit difficult to get to fit, and it's quite thin, so I figure it will break easily.
- At the top of the phone, where the digitizer (or LCD, I don't remember) cable is mounted, there's a little grey rubber-thingy - it suddenly fell off my phone, and it took embarrassingly long to figure out where and how it fits
- The small backup battery (?) in the upper left corner of the phone is glued to the frame. I used a small flat-headed screw driver to release it from the frame. Don't try and remove it by yanking the flex cable.
But all in all, replacing the digitizer with a new one (already in a frame) was a quick and easy operation.
Edit: I bought this digitizer: ebay. co. uk/itm/T-Mobile-LG-P990-Optimus-2X-Replacement-Touch-Screen-Digitizer-Frame-ZVLT338-/160656180054?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item2567dac356 and some cheap 2mm adhesive strips like ebay. co .uk/itm/3M-Sticker-tape-Adhesive-cellphone-touch-screen-LCD-2mm-HTC-Samsung-Sony-/200710386131?pt=UK_Mobiles_Accessories_RL&hash=item2ebb4571d3#ht_1099wt_1165
Why didn't I think of this before.. been cracks in my display for almost a half year now.
Local repair company said it takes two weeks to fix.. I had no plans to go two weeks without my phone
Just ordered one
p990 mother board
dear friend
sorry for my eanglish i write from italy.
i need your help but before i have to explane my problems:
i've a lg optimus x2 (p990) with water demage.....
i cleaned the mother board with success..now the phone turn on and fix the phone net and it can recognize the battery charge.
but unfortunately WI-FI,BLUETOOTH AND MIC(the people who call me can't hear me) DON'T WORK, THE GPS I DON'T KNOW BECAUSE I HOPE TO RESTORE THE WII-FI AND INSTAL GOOGLE MAPS.
i'm sure that wi-fi problems come from the mother board because i have an other same device so i made a test using the good one but the mic problems persisted
my question is ,do you know wich parts i have to check and clean again?
do you know where the wii-fi component are located in the mother board?
thanks for your attention
a friend
marco zavatta
Sorry for bringing up this old thread, but I have to ask, are all Optimus 2X digitizers the same? Don't some have different connectors or anything? Can I order any Optimus 2X digitizer for my P990? I was thinking of this digitizer, will it work?: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Digitizer-F...7BUA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364833172&sr=8-1
I had to replace mine recently, I read there are cheap ones where they only recognize 2 fingers instead of 5 like the genuine LG part. I ordered my digitizer from Ebay for around 18 british pound, I followed a few videos on Youtube with the disassembly, it's actually not that hard.
Keep in mind though that not all digitizers might come with glue attached or come with plastic tools, so keep a small bottle of glue and some plastic tools (credit card style plastic, knife) ready. One video recommends buying foam pads to glue around the digitizer, I didn't find that necessary, I just glued my new digitizer back onto the frame without problems. I accidentally made some glue residue onto the inside of mine, so make sure that you work very carefully
I have done this twice. It is not too hard and a lot cheaper. I follow this guide: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po8hBaZt__o.
Do yourself a favour and buy a digitizer with bezel (which is a frame). The first I bought was ****ty Hong Kong digitizer, the second one good Polish(?): http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_nkw=p990&_sacat=0&_odkw=&_osacat=0&_armrs=1&_ssn=digitaloutlet.pl
The hardest part is not to get dust between digitizer and lcd screen - you could consider wearing gloves...
The second hardest part is not to bend bezel around usb inlet.
Good luck!
So there's no connector difference?
kaspar737 said:
So there's no connector difference?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The connector should fit any p990. If you are in doubt email the seller.
oneearleft said:
The connector should fit any p990. If you are in doubt email the seller.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for coming back to this rather old thread, but I have recently replaced the digitizer on my LG P990, bought on ebay shipped from Hongkong, following the video guide cited above. However the digitizer now works erratically with upper 1/4 not responding to touch, and sometimes the whole thing does not work, so I am unable to unlock the phone at all. The only thing that worried me during replacement was the thin layer of plastic film on the inner side, which teared off when removing protective layer (the film was extremely thin and fragile)-would this be the problem? Or the digitizer itself is of low quality?
Any suggestions appreciated.
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
gunemalli said:
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am looking for the LCD and digitizer assembly. but i am trying to find OEM part
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
housing is not an issue
Lttlwing16 said:
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
i bought one
squee666 said:
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i did buy one from ebay today, after been an annoying person with lots of questions hahaha. i refused to buy from anyone below 99% profile credential on ebay. here are the questions i asked lol
Is the LCD screen manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store? if not, is the same Quality, TRUE IPS LCD with Gorilla Glass 2 digitizer?
Is this LCD part brand new or refurbished from reclaimed old parts?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel new or refurbished, or reclaimed from old parts?
and if I bought a brand new in box sealed G2 from LG, the part I’m asking about would be 100% identical with no differences in quality or condition?
does it work on D800 model, if not do you have one that works with D800 that is a genuine OEM?
is it OEM (Original equipment manufacturer), does it have part number on the flex cable, and LG display co,ltd label ?
only one seller, answered all of them concisely, without political correctness or avoidance. lots of them stopped talking to me, and some only answered vaguely. i had one hilarious response, who said the the screen is OEM but not genuine, i insisted for him to elaborate, he said OEM but not original. all of us know that OEM stands for Original equipment manufacturer. i sent him a response, that it does not make sense to be OEM but not original. he replied back OEM for them is, Optical equipment manufacturer lol, heck i do not even know what does that mean lol. i took a screenshot of the definition and sent it to him, he never replied back hahaha. many shady seller on ebay
P.s once i receive the part and install it, i will update on the condition/quality
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Link
noris08 said:
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251591046010?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
working
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
sdcaliber said:
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
jamracer said:
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
sdcaliber said:
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
jamracer said:
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
sshark said:
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah maybe, all depends of course. most of these products are subject to opinions if there is doubt about their OEM legitimacy. but for me, i will not buy non OEM for battery again, it scares the hell out of me. let's say i had a horrible experience before. i had Note 3, and bought a battery for it. the extra capacity made me drools lol, so i went with it. days later, i found the phone in total meltdown, literally. woke up from my sleep, and the phone is melting/fire.... scary scary experience. the good thing, i do not sleep while my phone next to me. it was on my table, charging.
side not: the original battery of Note 3 malfunctioned
OEM
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought it on Ebay and now it´s working fine, nice!!.. First I bought only the digitizer and it was faulting, but now this assembly is really working fine:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281280382756?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Regards,
Just posting to share my experience. I bought a replacement lcd\digitizer for my G2. Once installed, i had white lines going up and down the screen.
Some devices use different panel hardware (JDI instead of LGIT) and you will have white lines after using patched kernel. You must use those kernel with "_jdi" in its name. More info:http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...&postcount=122
After flashing the new kernal the phone works great. The phone does get noticeably hotter, unfortunately, which is a little worrisome.
The kernal issue and the heat lead me to believe that what i bought was not oem.
Sent from my LG-D801 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Is D800 frame compatible with LS980?
sdcaliber said:
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was just working on a frame lcd assembly swap on an LS980 rev 1. The frame I bought was a Verizon LV980 and the vibrator was off buy at least 3mm, I didn't mind losing the vibrator to gain a good lcd. Then the proximity detector layout was different, the LS980 had an extra piece that fit in a hole, but it could be removed. About 5mm below that is a ground connector for the motherboard on the LS980 but not on the VS980 and the tab holding the antenna coax hit the motherboard making the frame about 0.5mm too small causing the mobo not to seat.
All of these could be amended. Shave 0.5mm of the soft metal chassis, very easy, mobo grounds in at least six other places and proximity sensor had a removable tab.
But the bottom of the chassis where the dock port/usb board sits was just too different, the LS980 daughterboard wouldn't seat, it was larger. It could be forced but only at an angle that made the usb port off-center and not parallel to the opening. My repair stopped and re-assembled the phone with the LS980 chassis complete with my damaged lcd.
-----attached pics of proximity sensor, and ground connector area, didn't take more, I was getting mad.
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually I bought an LCD from this company. I am very happy with it. It is true HD and the it was shipped for me in 3 days as they said. At first I was very worried with the comments but I took the risk and I am satisfied with it. I don't know why others complain about it but I recommend them.