Database Develop

Phone overheat when charging.

Does anyone know why does my phone always overheat when I charge it? My wifi is off, and basically killed all my running apps.
This doesn't happen on my friend's nexus one.
By the way, I'm on FRF91 at&t. Anyone mind helping me with this? It would be greatly appreciated.
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App

What do you mean by overheating? Like turns off, bursts into flame, "feels hot"?

There's greater heat if you charge via USB as opposed to the wall charger. Did you both use the same charging methods?

Quelltextfabrik said:
There's greater heat if you charge via USB as opposed to the wall charger. Did you both use the same charging methods?
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Why does a usb cable heat up more than a "rapid charger" i thought the usb charged half as fast.
It would be logical to assume that less energy would produce less heat,
Please explain

Mine was also cooking on the charger. But after I switched to undervolted kernel the heat is not as high anymore.

android01 said:
Why does a usb cable heat up more than a "rapid charger" i thought the usb charged half as fast.
It would be logical to assume that less energy would produce less heat,
Please explain
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe that the reason would be that USB has constant current, while rapid charger "pulses" the current, making the charging much more effective.

Sindroid said:
Mine was also cooking on the charger. But after I switched to undervolted kernel the heat is not as high anymore.
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Click to collapse
How do you undervolted the phone?
The temperature of my phone can go up as hot as 41C when I'm using the wall charger. But I charged it using the USB cable, it does not get hot at all.
So, is it possible that my wall charger is broken?

Only 41C? Don't worry about it then.

krad1992 said:
How do you undervolted the phone?
The temperature of my phone can go up as hot as 41C when I'm using the wall charger. But I charged it using the USB cable, it does not get hot at all.
So, is it possible that my wall charger is broken?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
41C is nothing to worry about really. You should only be concerned if it went over 60C and even then it's mostly the battery that's paying the price.

Ah well... All my previous phone never reached that hot when it's charged.
I'm relieved that it's normal to reach 41C when charging then.
Thanks guys.

Quelltextfabrik said:
There's greater heat if you charge via USB as opposed to the wall charger. Did you both use the same charging methods?
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Click to collapse
No, there's not............ Sheesh.

khaytsus said:
No, there's not............ Sheesh.
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Click to collapse
Yes, there is a difference. Since the capacity charge is definitely different (5 V @ 500 mA vs. 5 V @ 1 A) there needs to be some sort of transformation in the power supply of the Nexus One. And transformation always releases heat.
Since the Nexus One and the Desktop Dock ship with a charger, this seems to be the preferred charging method and it makes sense that the phones power supply was designed to reflect that.
From my own experience I can say that my Nexus One get's very hot when charged via USB and almost no heat increase occurs when I charge it with the wall charger. But there might be a difference for users with 110 V ~ in their sockets.
Also check out the Li-Ion Battery guide, krad1992.

I also noticed that the phone gets a little hot when charging it. But I think that is natural. Also, it wasn't as extreme as you put it, where it would "overheat," instead I could notice that the phone was warmer when placed in the hand, especially in the lower bottom corner. But it never overheats...

If the heat worries you, you could always installed SetCPU (on a rooted device, of course) and set a profile to scale the processor speed down when charging, and I believe the newer versions of that app even let you set a different profile for charging via USB versus AC.

Quelltextfabrik said:
Yes, there is a difference. Since the capacity charge is definitely different (5 V @ 500 mA vs. 5 V @ 1 A) there needs to be some sort of transformation in the power supply of the Nexus One. And transformation always releases heat.
Since the Nexus One and the Desktop Dock ship with a charger, this seems to be the preferred charging method and it makes sense that the phones power supply was designed to reflect that.
From my own experience I can say that my Nexus One get's very hot when charged via USB and almost no heat increase occurs when I charge it with the wall charger. But there might be a difference for users with 110 V ~ in their sockets.
Also check out the Li-Ion Battery guide, krad1992.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMFG, nonsense FUD. 5V is 5V. The phone only draws 500mAh when a 'USB' charge is detected, vs drawing 1Ah when an 'AC' charge is detected. The power supply is not pushing power into the device.
I'm not disagreeing that your phone gets hot when charging with a slow charge, but your assumptions are total nonsense and it's not normal.
Maybe you have some software doing something weird when USB is plugged in charging.. Ever tried shutting the phone down and plugging it on USB and seeing if it also gets hot?

khaytsus said:
OMFG, nonsense FUD. 5V is 5V. The phone only draws 500mAh when a 'USB' charge is detected, vs drawing 1Ah when an 'AC' charge is detected. The power supply is not pushing power into the device.
I'm not disagreeing that your phone gets hot when charging with a slow charge, but your assumptions are total nonsense and it's not normal.
Maybe you have some software doing something weird when USB is plugged in charging.. Ever tried shutting the phone down and plugging it on USB and seeing if it also gets hot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That might be a little harsh...
My phone ALWAYS gets hotter charging from USB (and especially from a USB cable plugged into a non-HTC 1, 1.6 or 2A wall charger).
The phone detects whether it should be in AC or in USB mode based on whether it a couple of the pins are shorted in the cable (this has been confirmed by people taking hotknives to their chargers). If it detects USB mode, it only draws about 450mA. In AC mode (thus, if it sees shorted pins, like in the stock HTC chargers), it'll draw somewhat (slightly) less than 1A.
I think that imperfect quality control or imperfect engineering on the phone might cause some drawn current to escape as heat when in USB mode, but not to while in AC mode.
This does not (at least for me) seem to be a software issue, because I have seen the EXACT SAME BEHAVIOR on CM 5.0.5, CM 5.0.6, CM 5.0.7(.x), CM 5.0.8, FRF50, FRF83, FRF85b, FRF91 and CM6 (both nightly and RC1). I've tried out dozens of kernels, and the problem seems to be a LITTLE better on more fiercely UC'd versions.
Plugging into USB and charging ALWAYS causes my phone to become warm or hot to the touch (after 30min to 1Hr, of course). After a good while, temps go on up to 34-39 on USB, with very little user activity or screen use, versus 29-32 when in AC mode. I have never had the slightest PROBLEM linked with this issue - that level of heat just isn't bad for something designed to work in the sun, sit in your pocket all day, etc.
I can confirm that this is also a problem on an HTC Desire - both the IDIOTIC self-limiting AC/USB regulator and the heat-while-charging-USB issue.
The AC/USB logic used by the phone is the most user-unfriendly thing I've ever seen on a phone, because it is MUCH too strict. It is solely designed to get you to buy "official" HTC fast chargers, rather than letting you use third party gear.
My Milestone would charge (and draw) fast from any old wall bump that could feed enough juice. iPhones do it. My BlackBerry Bold would draw well over 1A and fully charge in less than an hour off of anything that fed enough juice. But my fantastic "superphone" can't do this? That is really the ONLY thing I don't like about the N1 - and it will probably stop me from ever buying an HTC phone again, since I have confirmed exactly the same behavior on other models. Here's why:
If my wife and I travel with our kids, with multiple USB-charged and powered devices, I either have to bring both my US-only N1 charger AND an adapter (we live in France) PLUS another USB source (like a 2-in-1 or a 4-in-1) and cables, OR I can just bring the other source and count on 7 hours a day with my phone plugged into the wall, since 450mA is crap. And all of this is because HTC wants me to buy and use their chargers - which do not accept USB plugs like Moto's, Apple's, third-party, etc.

Quelltextfabrik said:
Yes, there is a difference. Since the capacity charge is definitely different (5 V @ 500 mA vs. 5 V @ 1 A) there needs to be some sort of transformation in the power supply of the Nexus One. And transformation always releases heat.
Since the Nexus One and the Desktop Dock ship with a charger, this seems to be the preferred charging method and it makes sense that the phones power supply was designed to reflect that.
From my own experience I can say that my Nexus One get's very hot when charged via USB and almost no heat increase occurs when I charge it with the wall charger. But there might be a difference for users with 110 V ~ in their sockets.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well. Mine is the other way round. When I charged it with my USB cable, it doesn't get hot at all. But, it gets very hot when I charge with the wall charger.
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App

Quelltextfabrik said:
There's greater heat if you charge via USB as opposed to the wall charger. Did you both use the same charging methods?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=727067
You voted yet? My results from today are even lower than that of yesterday, but my house is colder than my office.. Wife likes it frigid.. 27C charging on USB today.

Maybe you are using the phone while it's being charged, thus using the processor and producing heat?
I can leave mine on all day, and it doesn't get any hotter than a regular phone being charged. But if I have the OLED on and using processor, then it gets a little warmer.
The hottest I've seen mine get of 47 c, and that was because I was outside at the pool and the sun was killing it lol.

khaytsus said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=727067
You voted yet? My results from today are even lower than that of yesterday, but my house is colder than my office.. Wife likes it frigid.. 27C charging on USB today.
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Click to collapse
I avoid charging via USB because the phone get's too hot for my taste. But I tried just now and it's around 39 °C in an ambient temp of around 23 °C.
khaytsus said:
OMFG, nonsense FUD. 5V is 5V. The phone only draws 500mAh when a 'USB' charge is detected, vs drawing 1Ah when an 'AC' charge is detected. The power supply is not pushing power into the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Though your slightly unkind post was answered sufficiently by big_adventure, I'd like to add something.
I suspect we both don't know how the input circuit of the Nexus One is designed, so it's pure speculation when we talk about how the power input is handled. HTC can be quiet fast with their hardware iterations, so we might even have different revisions.
But, the Nexus Ones Li-Ion needs a current of 1.4 A (1 C) until 4.2 V cell voltage are reached, ideally. The power the AC wall charger delivers fits in quiet well with almost no transformation. The maximum current the USB port can deliver is way out of the ideal range so there's the need for some more sweet magic in the circuits. And sweet electronic magic is connected to releasing heat.
However the input circuit is designed, there are definitely differences how the input of both charging methods is handled, causing varying levels of heat increase. Depending on what the engineers chose as their bias point. Tolerances have impact, of course and hardware revisions might have changed things. I'd like to be more specific but I have never designed a mobile phone charging circuit nor do I intend to disembowel my N1 for the sake of an argument
Caution: You may find speculation and assumptions but no FUD
Take care.

Charging Via Rear 4-pin Connector

Hey all,
I've been experimenting with the rear 4-pin connector on the back of the droid 4 (pogo-pins for the inductive charging rear door)
Connected a current limited power supply to Gnd and Vin on the back of my Droid 4 (pin lower right = gnd, pin lower left = Vin) at 5.0V and I had charging occurring at a nice speedy rate. Screen showed charging, amperage was around 1500mA to start scaling down to 1300mA-1100mA as it reached full charge. It seems to pass through the Lithium Ion battery management circuity so appears to be a safe way to dump in lots of power. Obviously these pins are designed to pick up power from the rear inductive charging cover that Motorola produced, but I wanted to try just pure 5.0V power. It appears that it is not bypassing or defeating the battery temp/overcharging safety circuit but of course test at your own will in a safe environment. I personally noted that if the battery was 'warm' the charge rate was reduced to avoid overtemp. Also it would scale down as the on-screen-indicator showed it was reaching full charge.
I’m thinking of grabbing some extra rear covers and making up some drop-in charging stations or alternative inputs (like solar/etc.)
Nice to get away from having to charge on the USB Micro connector which appears to limit charging current and cause wear-and-tear.
This seems like a VERY good thing if someone was building an external battery pack that fit onto the phone (like the one for the iPhone)…you could power it on, charge via this connector, and shut it down whenever you liked. The power draw on the phone drops off massively once it is charged so if you started with a full charge, it could float the battery all the way to empty.
Time to experiment! My first build will likely be a drop-in docking station.
Again, for reference:
Bottom right (when viewing back, camera at the top):
Gnd is Lower Right – Nearest the microUSB connector
Vin is Lower Left – Opposite side from Gnd on the bottom row
Don’t hit it with too much voltage! I limited myself to about 4.8V and 1700mA max. I'd expect over-voltage on these pins could damage the battery management circuity and fry the phone. I was using a good regulated supply with meters.
Cheers,

This is awesome, thanks for this! Might have to play with a cover and done batteries at some point... Please let us all know how your experiments go!
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using xda app-developers app

I like the idea of an expanded battery very useful.
I have a small solar cell + battery to charge my phone by USB already.

That is bad ass. Post some pics of your first prototype
Sent from my DROID4 using xda premium

Great news, thanks for your time, man.

Just wondering but do you know what the other 2 pins are for?
I got one with a broken usb port for parts and am now wondering if I could use this to build a fix.

Most any (not all) Li-ion battery is rated for at least a 1C charge rate. So with a 1785 mAh Li-ion battery you should be able to safely charge at 1785 mA. The trade off is the faster you charge it the more you reduce overall battery life. For example (not real numbers) if the expected life of the battery is 500 charges (a charge is the amount of current to charge the battery from it's nominal voltage to fully charged and has no correlation to how many times you plug it into a charger) then charging it at 0.75C might increase it's life significantly to 750 to 1000 charges.
Note: the stock wall wart is speced at 850 mA at 5.1 V output (very odd that voltage...).
Brandon314159 said:
Nice to get away from having to charge on the USB Micro connector which appears to limit charging current and cause wear-and-tear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More likely it's the power supply. Most all PC usb ports put out 500 mA at 5.0 V. Most (USB) wall warts are rated at 1000 mA at 5.0 V.
What has me worried is that the phone appears to overcharge the battery to something like 4.317 V or even 4.351 V... I'm hoping this is just an error in the phone/app voltage reporting, but then again it could just be the way they get that 1785 mAh capacity from the battery. Overcharging the battery in this way could well be safe and would have the effect of increasing it's capacity, but it will significantly reduce it's life as well. You would not expect a Li-ion battery to be charged over 4.2 V and preferably something like 4.17 V
Can you use those pins to directly measure the battery voltage? I was going to measure mine directly to compare with Battery Monitor Widget reporting but decided I didn't want to remove the sticker from the back of the battery and I couldn't get a reading from the push pin contacts.

Quick7135 said:
What has me worried is that the phone appears to overcharge the battery to something like 4.317 V or even 4.351 V... I'm hoping this is just an error in the phone/app voltage reporting, but then again it could just be the way they get that 1785 mAh capacity from the battery. Overcharging the battery in this way could well be safe and would have the effect of increasing it's capacity, but it will significantly reduce it's life as well. You would not expect a Li-ion battery to be charged over 4.2 V and preferably something like 4.17 V
Can you use those pins to directly measure the battery voltage? I was going to measure mine directly to compare with Battery Monitor Widget reporting but decided I didn't want to remove the sticker from the back of the battery and I couldn't get a reading from the push pin contacts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
- You cannot use those pins to measure battery voltage as they are an input to the charger... IE they do not tie directly to the battery. You would have to watch the battery voltage at the screws for the battery flex-cable mount.
- There are lots of notes about the battery voltage being 'high' by peoples viewpoints. If you search around, someone explains the difference in chemistry that the Droid 4 is using and that it does have a higher Vmax during bulk/absorption charge levels. I believe the summary was that it is a non-issue. They aren't trying to 'cheat' the battery into higher voltage for more cap...it's just simply how that chemistry wants to be charged. You'll have to google around to find it.
I am curious to see what sort of 'external' packs I can come up with and likely would limit my charging rate to 1200mA or so just to keep things 'happy'. I got slapped pretty hard over at droidforums by an admin and my post removed for this same info...glad to see the community here is more accepting of my discoveries. :cyclops:
-Also, the other two pins are data lines...not sure if In/out compatible but one is Batt Temp and the other is Communication (for determining battery type). The phone doesn't like having these pins futzed with (can cause reboots/lockups) so there is clearly something on the other end...but sounds like the protection is weak regarding input into the processor/etc.
Once I have my phone near a camera, I will photo my connection method/mods (no direct soldering in-case I have to warranty the phone for other issues). That gave me 6" pigtails of wire that I have hiding behind my cheap-o case right now waiting for proper connections (I exited through the speaker hole on the stock back cover).

Brandon314159 said:
I am curious to see what sort of 'external' packs I can come up with and likely would limit my charging rate to 1200mA or so just to keep things 'happy'. I got slapped pretty hard over at droidforums by an admin and my post removed for this same info...glad to see the community here is more accepting of my discoveries. :cyclops:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
which mod did this to u? what reason did he give to do that to u? just want to know... cuz that sounds really uncool

myfishbear said:
which mod did this to u? what reason did he give to do that to u? just want to know... cuz that sounds really uncool
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't wanna get anyone in trouble or piss peeps off. PM me if ya want more details.
It was pretty uncool, all things considered.
Oh well, happier here already!

you know what u should add is a resistor and a on/off toggle for safety

Brandon314159 said:
- You cannot use those pins to measure battery voltage as they are an input to the charger... IE they do not tie directly to the battery. You would have to watch the battery voltage at the screws for the battery flex-cable mount.
- There are lots of notes about the battery voltage being 'high' by peoples viewpoints. If you search around, someone explains the difference in chemistry that the Droid 4 is using and that it does have a higher Vmax during bulk/absorption charge levels. I believe the summary was that it is a non-issue. They aren't trying to 'cheat' the battery into higher voltage for more cap...it's just simply how that chemistry wants to be charged. You'll have to google around to find it.
I am curious to see what sort of 'external' packs I can come up with and likely would limit my charging rate to 1200mA or so just to keep things 'happy'. I got slapped pretty hard over at droidforums by an admin and my post removed for this same info...glad to see the community here is more accepting of my discoveries. :cyclops:
-Also, the other two pins are data lines...not sure if In/out compatible but one is Batt Temp and the other is Communication (for determining battery type). The phone doesn't like having these pins futzed with (can cause reboots/lockups) so there is clearly something on the other end...but sounds like the protection is weak regarding input into the processor/etc.
Once I have my phone near a camera, I will photo my connection method/mods (no direct soldering in-case I have to warranty the phone for other issues). That gave me 6" pigtails of wire that I have hiding behind my cheap-o case right now waiting for proper connections (I exited through the speaker hole on the stock back cover).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very excited to see those photos. I can't imagine your post getting removed for that sort of information, that is a shame... Hardware mods are just as much fun as software mods, imho! Plus, they have the added bonus that there is a slight risk of explosion, something I err, enjoy

Brandon314159 said:
- You would have to watch the battery voltage at the screws for the battery flex-cable mount.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Drat. I really didn't want to peal off the sticker... heh, maybe I could just punch through it with the needle probes and only leave 2 tiny holes .
There are lots of notes about the battery voltage being 'high' by peoples viewpoints. If you search around, someone explains the difference in chemistry that the Droid 4 is using and that it does have a higher Vmax during bulk/absorption charge levels. I believe the summary was that it is a non-issue. They aren't trying to 'cheat' the battery into higher voltage for more cap...it's just simply how that chemistry wants to be charged. You'll have to google around to find it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have done a lot of googling and failed. I'm skeptical that I can't find any "new Li-ion chemistry". The only thing I did find was a pointer to an Anandtech article where the writer said he "heard" they were using a "new Li-ion chemistry" ... with no references or cites. In any event I agree it is mostly a non-issue for most everyone else. I figure they have it all designed for some target duty cycle -- probably about 1 year? maybe 2? Thing is, I plan to keep my phone for 4 or more years like all my past smart phones. The difference this time is that the battery is non-removeable (yes, I know it can be done with tools and some risk). I was hoping to find an app that would interface with the battery management and allow a configurable threshold for the "fully charged" cutoff. With a charging cutoff at about 90% I should be able to triple the life of my battery.
sigh... sorry for the hijack (but there isn't much on the actually battery operation, even around here).

Quick7135 said:
I was hoping to find an app that would interface with the battery management and allow a configurable threshold for the "fully charged" cutoff. With a charging cutoff at about 90% I should be able to triple the life of my battery.
sigh... sorry for the hijack (but there isn't much on the actually battery operation, even around here).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
drain the phone and charge it up in charging mode with the stock charger. this will calibrate your battery so it will charge to 100%

myfishbear said:
drain the phone and charge it up in charging mode with the stock charger. this will calibrate your battery so it will charge to 100%
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Click to collapse
He wants to make it so it ONLY takes charges to 90%, to extend the duty cycle of the battery. Honestly, I would just not worry about it, and replace the battery as necessary.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda app-developers app

I put my reply over on this thread that you created, which seems to be more on-topic:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1856514
Cheers!

podspi said:
He wants to make it so it ONLY takes charges to 90%, to extend the duty cycle of the battery. Honestly, I would just not worry about it, and replace the battery as necessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're probably right but I'm not clear on the risks of damage to the hardware when prying out the non-replaceable battery.
Brandon314159 said:
I put my reply over on this thread that you created, which seems to be more on-topic:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1856514
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. and I do apologize (again) for the interruption here. It won't happen again.

Quick7135 said:
You're probably right but I'm not clear on the risks of damage to the hardware when prying out the non-replaceable battery.
Thanks. and I do apologize (again) for the interruption here. It won't happen again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd think you'd be at higher risk of damage playing with the software/firmware interface that controls battery charging than doing an actual battery swap.
It appears to be pretty easy: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola-Droid-4-Teardown/7759/1
No worries on cross posting...just figured better to keep it all over there where there is already a few replies on-topic.
Cheers,

BTW noticed today that the phone says "Charging - Connected to an inductive charging mat" when you connect up power to the back.
I will try to get a shot of the connection when I get home.

My USB port broke... would you think this would charge a completely dead battery.. thank you kindly for your time...
update this will charge a completely dead battery... took an OEM charger cut it open used the red and black... worked perfectly...
why do they call it common sense when only a few people have it...

Project GAMETRIX

Lapdock+Wii == Gametrix
So I have a spare Nintendo Wii and a lapdock (hopefully pick some more up if there are still any at Radioshack) and I am going to disassemble the Wii, reconfigure it to fit on the back "panel" of the Lapdock, and get the needed cords to create a Gametrix[/]
My initial goal is to connect a Nintendo Wii to my Atrix Lapdock by... (with modifications)
1) a. Having the Lapdock’s Male Mini-HDMI plugged into a Female Mini-HDMI TO M / F Fullsized-HDMI converter. Thus allowing a direct HDMI connection from there.
This takes care of ½ of connections for both the Lapdock and the Wii.
2) a. Ideally I am looking to hook the Wii’s power supply directly to the Lapdock’s Male Micro-USB port, via a Female Micro-USB TO M / F Fullsized-USB. From there I’d need a USB to Female Wall Outlet (3 prong?) this would entail finding(unlikely...) / building one.
This takes care of power needs, (if it works) leaving only the unlikely usability of the Lapdocks built in keyboard and mouse / USB ports.
2) b. if number 2 section a (above) doesn’t work because of lack of volts traveling through the USB to the Wii, then I’d be left with connecting an external battery to the Wii and just taking advantage of the screen.
Hopefully if I have to result to section b then I’d at least be able to use the keyboard and mouse?
I will update with a Diagram of my plan “a” and “b” tomorrow after school.

Here are average power draw for the Wii. @17 Watts http://www.blogcdn.com/www.joystiq.com/media/2007/02/next-gen_console_power_lg.jpg
And here for Gamecube. @23 Watts http://www.tpcdb.com/product.php?id=1615
Lapdock voltage output. ??? I think I'd have to replace the battery because it's only supposed to charge a phone/run an OS...
Lapdock insternal battery mAh ???
Please guys I know it's a lot but any input is great input

sounds fun. good luck dude.

Use a wii its better and supports a HDMI converter.
The gamecube already has a battery pack accessory and a screen accessory so its easy been done
Sent from Moto Atrix 4g on Neutrino 2.91

I have decided to go with the Wii, I am trying to find info on how many amps the Wii draws and if the Lapdock is capable of powering it...

I think I would try seeing how they both look on the screen before diving in much further, but it does sound like it could be a fun project.
Other thoughts:
how useful the project will be specifically to you? For many of us, due to the limited availability of the lapdocks, there's a limited number of people that will be able to try this themselves.
do you plan on strictly playing games, or are you going a bit further by using Linux on the device? I imagine there is a way you could use the keyboard as some type of input device, although you may have to create some translator device from a programmable Microcontroller.
is the screen big enough for enjoying using the device or is it more of a challenge than it's worth. The screen may be plenty big enough for a handheld device, but for something like using a Wii controller where you are at a distance from the screen, is it big enough?
Budget This is something we all overlook far to often. Something starts off small and simple, but before you know it, you end up spending way more than you had anticipated.

I have 2 Wii's and a Lapdock, so budget is covered.
I'm not going to use the motion bar, just gamecube games.
My main concern is if the Lapdock can power it.

jeffreygtab said:
I have 2 Wii's and a Lapdock, so budget is covered.
I'm not going to use the motion bar, just gamecube games.
My main concern is if the Lapdock can power it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Power will probably be an issue through USB as USB does have a specification for max current of 500–900 mA (general); 5 A (charging devices). After that the port should shutdown to prevent burning out the controller.
Edit: I was looking at your figures above, did some digging, and I think you have a couple hurdles.
To start with, for power consumption, you want to look more at peak then you do at min and give yourself a bit of cushion, mainly because running at max power all the time will tax components. Second, and this is a big one, the Wii power pack apparently is 12V 3.7A (44.4W). USB is only 5 volts, and at 900mA you're peaking at 4.5W. However, if you could somehow manage to trick it into charge mode, you might be able to squeeze 25W. That's if it works like a standard USB port. If you can do that, you can step up the voltage with a charge pump, but I'm not quite sure how close to max that will put you due to efficiency losses. You may be able to go the other way and use the Wii to power the lapdock, or you may have to power them independently.
All that said, I think it's still important to just try to see what it looks like on the screen before digging in too far.

I plan on charging it through the Micro USB which you said supplies up to 23W+ Which is apparently plenty for the Wii. I'm going to order the necessary cords to attempt this, this weekend. So next week I'll know how much, if any, I have to modify to power it.....
I'll continue to research, and thanks for your help!
EDIT: screen size isn't an issue, as I'm have it right in from of me like a laptop, Playing Super Smash Bros Melee and the like.

BIG Message to everyone who's reading this. THIS IS MY FIRST HARDWARE MOD (as if that wasn't obvious?)
Anyways I'm gonna pick up a soldering iron as well, because I'm not finding a way to charge the Wii (assuming the Lapdock is capable...) There are no real ways to convert the micro usb to the 3 prong standard outlet that the Wii uses... So I may need to make my own? Will this work? http://www.sybausa.com/productInfo.php?iid=1274 Although I can't find where to buy it.

jeffreygtab said:
BIG Message to everyone who's reading this. THIS IS MY FIRST HARDWARE MOD (as if that wasn't obvious?)
Anyways I'm gonna pick up a soldering iron as well, because I'm not finding a way to charge the Wii (assuming the Lapdock is capable...) There are no real ways to convert the micro usb to the 3 prong standard outlet that the Wii uses... So I may need to make my own? Will this work? http://www.sybausa.com/productInfo.php?iid=1274 Although I can't find where to buy it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean you want to convert 5V DC to 120V AC and then downconvert to 12V? Better to just go from 5V to 12V, but the reality is that it's much easier to go down than up. What does the lapdock itself have for a power supply?
Edit: Looks like the Wii has some type of USB keyboard support. Not sure if you want to try getting that to work, but it might come in handy.

I know but isn't the Wii's power cord a standard 120v 3 prong wall charger? I'd have to convert the 3 prong format to a Micro USB.
The lapdocks power supply is the battery if that's what you were asking...
Thanks for helping on my first project btw.

Check out about halfway down the page on this link if you want to see what the Wii looks like on the lapdock screen:
http://www.robpol86.com/index.php/Atrix_Lapdock_Other_Uses

jeffreygtab said:
I know but isn't the Wii's power cord a standard 120v 3 prong wall charger? I'd have to convert the 3 prong format to a Micro USB.
The lapdocks power supply is the battery if that's what you were asking...
Thanks for helping on my first project btw.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad to share my limited knowledge. Anyway, Really, I'm unsure if you can pull 25W out of the USB or not, but even if you could, you'd lose a good chunk of that in going from 5V to 125V AC, because at this point, a charge pump is no longer an option but instead you would need a power inverter, and since most of the commercially available ones are designed to go from 12V DC to 120V AC, you would likely end up building one yourself. The charge pump (buck–boost converter) is much easier to build, but I'm not sure about how much power you can get out of it.
Here's one I built from modifying a schematic I found online somewhere:

I hate to be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.

ravilov said:
I hate yo be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
But as I said, I don't know if you can get that much power out of this particular device. 20W @12V is 1.6A, but in order to power that from 5V, you would need at least 4 Amps, which puts it close to max, but not over it. The actual port connector is rated much higher than that.
Edit: I do have to agree on one point though, running on battery power will be pretty limiting, especially when you consider what the batteries were intended for in the first place.

So you're saying that there's basically no way to power the Wii with the Lapdock's setup? Ughhh I assumed this would be a major issue but decided I'd leave the verdict to those more knowledgeable than myself... So you're sure there's no way? Well anyways I hope at the very least to connect an external Battery (recommendations?) and hopefully get the Wii to recognize the trackpad and keyboard esp. for linux use... I'll keep researching and keep you guys posted.
edit:
ravilov said:
I hate yo be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lehjr said:
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
But as I said, I don't know if you can get that much power out of this particular device. 20W @12V is 1.6A, but in order to power that from 5V, you would need at least 4 Amps, which puts it close to max, but not over it. The actual port connector is rated much higher than that.
Edit: I do have to agree on one point though, running on battery power will be pretty limiting, especially when you consider what the batteries were intended for in the first place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't read your reply Lehjr before posting mine, sorry about that. Anyways I'm still confused about whether or not the Lapdock is capable of powering the Wii? Anyways here is where I'm getting my very limited information on basic electronics. http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question501.htm I will keep studying though don't worry:laugh:
I'm going to post this on BenHeck Forums too for additional input. Again thank you guys.

lehjr said:
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hm, interesting. I don't know, I'd say even if the USB hardware might be able to withhold such high currents, it's only for a short while, not for continuous use. I'm talking about all the USB hardware now, not just the plugs and cords.
Anyway, while 5A might indeed be the theoretical maximum, I have yet to see an USB device that actually delivers anywhere close to that. Even most commercial "high-speed" chargers deliver only up to about 2A.

ravilov said:
Hm, interesting. I don't know, I'd say even if the USB hardware might be able to withhold such high currents, it's only for a short while, not for continuous use. I'm talking about all the USB hardware now, not just the plugs and cords.
Anyway, while 5A might indeed be the theoretical maximum, I have yet to see an USB device that actually delivers anywhere close to that. Even most commercial "high-speed" chargers deliver only up to about 2A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, running that close to maximum is likely going to be short lived, and that's if it can be coaxed to go there in the first place. I'm not sure what the portability thing is about anyway. The Wii may be small, but it's heavy.
---------- Post added at 09:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:19 PM ----------
jeffreygtab said:
So you're saying that there's basically no way to power the Wii with the Lapdock's setup? Ughhh I assumed this would be a major issue but decided I'd leave the verdict to those more knowledgeable than myself... So you're sure there's no way? Well anyways I hope at the very least to connect an external Battery (recommendations?) and hopefully get the Wii to recognize the trackpad and keyboard esp. for linux use... I'll keep researching and keep you guys posted.
edit:
Didn't read your reply Lehjr before posting mine, sorry about that. Anyways I'm still confused about whether or not the Lapdock is capable of powering the Wii? Anyways here is where I'm getting my very limited information on basic electronics. http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question501.htm I will keep studying though don't worry:laugh:
I'm going to post this on BenHeck Forums too for additional input. Again thank you guys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possibly capable, very slim chance, but doing so would be running very close to max the entire time the Wii is powered. You would also have to build a device to convert 5V to 12V, again, not impossible, but you do lose some power do to conversion inefficiencies. Is there any particular reason you want the device to be portable? IMHO, in order to run the Wii for any length of time, you would need a decent set of batteries. A few amps plugged in is one thing, on battery power that's something else. I could easily see you using something like a couple Power Wheels 6V batteries and a 12V charger or some similar setup, maybe some lithium cells if you're a big spender. Anything more than that and you're wheeling this thing around on a cart with a deep cycle marine/RV battery.

Haha a definitive answer would be welcomed as to whether it's theoretically capable or not, but if you can't provide that, I completely understand! Anyways It just needs to be temporarily portable, like 1 hour battery life is plenty. Thanks... Btw I can't actually thank you guys anymore as I'm out of thanks.

wireless charging

Hi this is my first phone that is capable of wireless charging. I have the pixel stand but I only like to charge my phone to 80 not 100. It greatly extends the overall life of the battery. Is there a way to make it trickle charge so I can just put it on my stand and go to sleep? I thought I read somewhere if you use a different wireless charger other than the pixel stand it wont charge at its max 10w. Is that true and can anyone recommend a wireless charger stand that would trickle charge my phone?

The phone mostly decides how charging is done. This is the same for wired charging. The charger has no idea how charged the phone is, so it doesn't know when to stop. Even if it is very slow, it won't stop until 100%.
Your phone would need to be rooted in order to have an application control/stop charging at a certain point. (I use Battery Charge Limit with custom settings)
Alternately without root, there are chargers with Bluetooth that can pair with an app to disable charging at the charger level when the app tells it to stop.

mojorisin7178 said:
Hi this is my first phone that is capable of wireless charging. I have the pixel stand but I only like to charge my phone to 80 not 100. It greatly extends the overall life of the battery. Is there a way to make it trickle charge so I can just put it on my stand and go to sleep? I thought I read somewhere if you use a different wireless charger other than the pixel stand it wont charge at its max 10w. Is that true and can anyone recommend a wireless charger stand that would trickle charge my phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Two methods I've tried without root on my Pixel 4 XL:
Go-to Google Play and search "Chargie". This method requires a Bluetooth connection with a USB adapter inline with your charger. I tried this first but found it unreliable and a battery drain. I emailed the developer a few times and asked for improvements with less liability on battery. I'm not sure where that project has progressed since but updates sound like it had improved.
Second method didn't require any additional expense because I had the resources already. This method uses Tasker (no root required), IFTTT and a smart switch of some kind compatible with Webhooks on IFTTT. This tutorial walked me through my first and still only Tasker task. Wasn't hard but took some dedicated time and just a little patience and persistence and motivation. The tut is mostly doable but I can't recall the particulars but Tasker helps helped me to put it together. Something about a default change where I couldn't find the suggested option? Doubtful anyone familiar with Tasker would have an issue at all.
https://www.reddit.com/r/pixel2/comments/7vnsmo/how_to_prolong_battery_life_by_using_smart/
This is the method I've stuck with since setting it up. It works and isn't a battery liability. I do get a slow command to release power so I adjust the command % cutoff accordingly (2 or 4%). I didn't use wemo but another smart strip that gave me individual control of its outlets. All credit to the original reddit author and Tasker. Props to IFTTT and Webhooks applet for bringing it together.
I figured I could keep the Chargie USB adapter for traveling away from home or in my car. But one solution I found for my car was to setup a smart watch notification for Accubattery. It works; I get a notification vibe on my watch and unplug the car charger. If I used the Chargie, it would charge to a point and stop charging until phone got to another preset discharge and charge back to the preset point, like 80%.
Good to have options right root. I've rooted my previous phones but with adguard, I took inventory of what I really needed and this was the one I really couldn't do without. Still not rooted. But got a working remedy anyway.
I suppose Accubattery notifications is a third option...
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Thank you both for the suggestions. I have always used acubattery and would unplug.my phone. Now I do the same only unplug the pixel stand. The thing is.i like.some of the features.of the pixel stand. I don't want to bother with root and I understand that the phone is what controls the charging. I will be trying the Tasker and ifttt method. I do have a few.smart pugs from kasa smart so I will see.ifmthey work if not I'll try a different one.
I did read somewhere when the pixel.stand first came out along I th the pixel 3 that the pixel 3 had to be on the pixel stand to charge rapidly and the 3rd party chargers were just a trickle or just not rapid. But I do not know if they have since fixed that with and update or in the pixel 4 itself so I will be trying the above instructions again thank you

mojorisin7178 said:
Thank you both for the suggestions. I have always used acubattery and would unplug.my phone. Now I do the same only unplug the pixel stand. The thing is.i like.some of the features.of the pixel stand. I don't want to bother with root and I understand that the phone is what controls the charging. I will be trying the Tasker and ifttt method. I do have a few.smart pugs from kasa smart so I will see.ifmthey work if not I'll try a different one.
I did read somewhere when the pixel.stand first came out along I th the pixel 3 that the pixel 3 had to be on the pixel stand to charge rapidly and the 3rd party chargers were just a trickle or just not rapid. But I do not know if they have since fixed that with and update or in the pixel 4 itself so I will be trying the above instructions again thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's still likely a way to also slow the charge with Chargie or swapping the power block that your Pixel stand uses. It's likely using Power Delivery which is quite fast. The slower charge is also better for battery.
Qualcomm Quick Charge 3.0 is slower but a standard block may be 5V 1Amp. Accubattery can help comparing charging blocks for ideal charge.
What Chargie does is allow you to set a profile with max battery temp and limit charge capacity which will slow it down. You would need USB adapters for the Chargie; it uses USB A male and female connectors.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Yeah I felt how hot the battery got and did not like that. I could just use the pixel stand and not plug it in. The battery doesn't seem to get that hot when charging with just the wire. But I'm going to look into charge. I like the idea of limiting the battery temp.

samep said:
There's still likely a way to also slow the charge with Chargie or swapping the power block that your Pixel stand uses. It's likely using Power Delivery which is quite fast. The slower charge is also better for battery.
Qualcomm Quick Charge 3.0 is slower but a standard block may be 5V 1Amp. Accubattery can help comparing charging blocks for ideal charge.
What Chargie does is allow you to set a profile with max battery temp and limit charge capacity which will slow it down. You would need USB adapters for the Chargie; it uses USB A male and female connectors.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the type c to a converter that came with my pixel 4. I also have type A to type C cables is that all I need or are you talking about something else? It looks like there is a Male type A for input which I guess would go to the charger and I cant see the other side but Im assuming there is a female Type A for output which would go to the phone/wirless charger. Is that correct? If thats the case I can use two usb A to C wires

mojorisin7178 said:
I have the type c to a converter that came with my pixel 4. I also have type A to type C cables is that all I need or are you talking about something else? It looks like there is a Male type A for input which I guess would go to the charger and I cant see the other side but Im assuming there is a female Type A for output which would go to the phone/wirless charger. Is that correct? If thats the case I can use two usb A to C wires
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

samep said:
Correct.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey I got the chargie last night. Trying to set it up. I have the converter that came with my pixel 4 and I have a few a to c cables. It works great. That was a good call my friend thank you. My only issue now is the stupid pixel stand won't charge wirelessly with those a to c cables. But I have the adapters coming for both sides so will.be using the original charger hopefully that works.
Do you know what a safe temp for the battery is? It's set at 140 but that seems too high to me.

mojorisin7178 said:
Hey I got the chargie last night. Trying to set it up. I have the converter that came with my pixel 4 and I have a few a to c cables. It works great. That was a good call my friend thank you. My only issue now is the stupid pixel stand won't charge wirelessly with those a to c cables. But I have the adapters coming for both sides so will.be using the original charger hopefully that works.
Do you know what a safe temp for the battery is? It's set at 140 but that seems too high to me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that is high. Maybe that's for discharge? But Chargie should use charge temps- see the table and article below for lithium batteries. I didn't recall what my Chargie was originally set to but when I charge mobile devices, I setup with a charger with multiple cables coming from a multiple output USB charger to my air purifier. The forced air coming out at its top cools my devices so I set it to 86°F
This is the max temperature recommended by battery college for fast charging to better protect the battery. I've not monitored it but Accubattery can- use the charging tab. Seems I could go lower with the circulated air.
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_at_high_and_low_temperatures
Edit: maybe Chargie uses an operating temp because it can be left plugged in to charge when it reaches your preset capacity. This is handy for a laptop or tablet on a plane plugged in to charge; charge to 80%, discharge to 45% and charge back to 80% without having to unplug or monitor battery capacity or temperature. Set accordingly and be worry free. 140 seems high but charging when using increases temperature. Set too low and it may not charge until you standby the screen to take the load off the battery. 140 so is max operating temperature but I don't feel that safe in that range. I'd standby that device rather than charge at that temperature. But the device is likely using that temperature range by default.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I haven't checked what the temp is when charging. I did notice it is hotter when using wireless charging. When chargie is not charging there is no power going to the device because it's basically just a Bluetooth switch. When it reaches it's charge it turns off the power. I have to test to see how long it takes to cool off the battery and that's how I will determine my discharge percentage. Give it enough time to cool off then charge back to 80.

mojorisin7178 said:
I haven't checked what the temp is when charging. I did notice it is hotter when using wireless charging. When chargie is not charging there is no power going to the device because it's basically just a Bluetooth switch. When it reaches it's charge it turns off the power. I have to test to see how long it takes to cool off the battery and that's how I will determine my discharge percentage. Give it enough time to cool off then charge back to 80.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. That's the likely intention for a phone. But can also be modified to remain plugged in while on a plane. But that's likely a tablet or laptop use.
The profile options were a factor in selecting the Chargie. I still use the Tasker method at home though. And I don't know if still necessary but I always force closed Chargie after using to keep the battery liability low.
I'm interested to know how useful and battery minding you find your new Chargie.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

samep said:
I agree. That's the likely intention for a phone. But can also be modified to remain plugged in while on a plane. But that's likely a tablet or laptop use.
The profile options were a factor in selecting the Chargie. I still use the Tasker method at home though. And I don't know if still necessary but I always force closed Chargie after using to keep the battery liability low.
I'm interested to know how useful and battery minding you find your new Chargie.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I will report back on this thread and quote you. It be a few days because Amazon seems to be having a problem now..

mojorisin7178 said:
Well I will report back on this thread and quote you. It be a few days because Amazon seems to be having a problem now..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No worries. I just wanted to know how it went and to read your comments. Totally voluntary on your part as far as sharing comments and when or if you respond.
Sorry for delays from Amazon. I've had a similar from a third party seller in New Jersey. Order was supposed to arrive just before the stay at home order went out- FedEx didn't pick my order up the day the seller said it had shipped. Still sitting there waiting for FedEx to pickup. Seller says FedEx told him they are doing their level best to complete shipments. I don't know about New Jersey but I see delivery trucks every day in my state.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

samep said:
No worries. I just wanted to know how it went and to read your comments. Totally voluntary on your part as far as sharing comments and when or if you respond.
Sorry for delays from Amazon. I've had a similar from a third party seller in New Jersey. Order was supposed to arrive just before the stay at home order went out- FedEx didn't pick my order up the day the seller said it had shipped. Still sitting there waiting for FedEx to pickup. Seller says FedEx told him they are doing their level best to complete shipments. I don't know about New Jersey but I see delivery trucks every day in my state.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been getting deliveries with no problem for the most part. At least once a week or more sometimes (My wife is furloughed and loves amazon) Im in new york and I do see FedEx and UPS all over. UPS had a problem last week that they are still trying to recover from. I dont know what it was but a bunch of stuff was delayed because of it.
Anyway I have spoken to the owner of chargie about a few things. He got back to me right away. The chargie is not compatible with the pixel stand in fact the pixel stand is not compatible with anything other than USB c to USB c. A USB A to USB C cable will not work on the pixel stand. And as it turns out that a good thing. The heat created by rapid charging is really not good for the battery. I now have my chargie plugged into a USB type A cube that charges at 1.5a The discharge is set at 3 and the charge is set to 80. So it discharges to 77 actually when it hits 76 is when the chargie turns on and turns off when it hits 81. The charging temp seems to stay around 90 F. Thats not bad the regular operating temp is around 85.So its really only going up 5-8 degrees when charging. I use accubattery for all my stats. My current screen on time is 12 hours and 30 minutes! Thats fantastic if you ask me. And currently my batteries health is being reported at 101% So almost no wear on it so far.
I want to thank you for pointing me in the right direction I never would have found this without your help. Its nice to see that there are still some good hearted people on XDA. I was around when it was still relatively new and everything I know about android I learned from the great devs and other enthusiasts. And I like sharing what I have learned and what setups work for me. I feel like I am giving back to the community so I will always share my feedback and what not.

101 % battery health is great. Doesn't appear the heat has effected your battery, not yet at least. I started limiting my charge to 80% capacity when I saw the health stat start dropping. I'm still at 95% battery health; if I recall correctly, I started limiting when health dropped to 97%. I did see 100% early when the phone was new.
Chargie was not reliable early. I also emailed the developer and he compelled me to join beta and send some logs. I let him know what I was expecting: not run continually and only connect when charging. I believe someone had said that Android can no longer uses USB plugging as a trigger? I don't know if he sorted that yet or not or just can't? But it appears in updates, he's made progress. I hope he does. I just keep the app updated and forced closed until needed again. Won't travel for some time now. But Accubattery alarm notification does well with my Fitbit Versa 2 to notify with a vibration on my wrist when wireless charging in the car reaches its set point.
Sometimes I forget and leave my phone plugged in. Tasker still has me covered if plugged in all night.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Is it possible to connect 2 batteries and use as one?

I've got two original Samsung note 5 batts. They currently have 2300maH and 2800mah capacity left.
I searched online for this, I only found here in xda a threat, someone said that if batts are same model and parameters connecting them might work....
Please comment

Probably not a good idea. If one shorts internally it may get fed by the other. Double trouble.
May screw up the power controller ability to effectively monitor charging and lead to a Li failure.

blackhawk said:
Probably not a good idea. If one shorts internally it may get fed by the other. Double trouble.
May screw up the power controller ability to effectively monitor charging and lead to a Li failure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right...thanks for this

You should probably pass on that....

veritvitos said:
Right...thanks for this
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can try it. I'm not real keen on the Frankenphone thing. Using frequent midrange power cycling (40-80%) may be a better plan.

what will happen if I connect battery for another model of samsung, something like 5000maH? (assuming, the batt. has same voltages..and parameters)

veritvitos said:
what will happen if I connect battery for another model of samsung, something like 5000maH? (assuming, the batt. has same voltages..and parameters)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will probably charge normally as I believe the charging is voltage based. Whether the battery thermal sensor will work correctly is another concern. That is important as it helps set charging rate and the under/over temperature behavior of the controller. It may take longer to fast charge as the power controller circuit may not be able to sink that much current.

blackhawk said:
It will probably charge normally as I believe the charging is voltage based. Whether the battery thermal sensor will work correctly is another concern. That is important as it helps set charging rate and the under/over temperature behavior of the controller. It may take longer to fast charge as the power controller circuit may not be able to sink that much current.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok, thanka for the information.I could go deeper to check if a script could make custom-management of th. sensor ,based on diff. parameters of battery, but I even if it can, there would be other problems i guess; lost cause

veritvitos said:
ok, thanka for the information.I could go deeper to check if a script could make custom-management of th. sensor ,based on diff. parameters of battery, but I even if it can, there would be other problems i guess; lost cause
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome.
People do create Frankenphones using huge batteries but they are awkward and more likely to be damaged in a drop. As glaxys graphically illustrated it's a crap shoot if it will go supernova on you. An optimized Samsung will generally get good SOT with the stock battery.