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Hiya,
I just got my cable from expansys, the vga and s-video out is working fine, but i haven't got any thing usb to work yet. I've tried flash Drives and a card reader, just no response, no light or any thing... is there a trick to it or is it not very compatable or is there a chance mine is faulty?
cheers
My guess is that although it is a Host, it does not supply any power, I say this because the battery is only 3.7 V DC and USB devices are 5 V DC, this means that there is not enough Volts in the advantage to power a USB device to start with, never mind powering a USB device and an Advantage at the same time.
You will probably need to plug it into a USB hub that supplies it's own power, like this one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-2-0-4-Por...106823769QQcategoryZ96866QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I had the same problem but it was because the TV out was still on. Once I turned this off in the settings menu it worked fine.
I too had no trouble hooking up a flash drive. No other peripherals were attached to the cable. Alas, no go on a hard-drive MP3 player, but trying a powered hub is a good idea.
Have you tried connecting your USB device, and then soft resetting?
Works for me.
I have no detection of USB devices by my Advantage.
I tried with and withour Soft Reset before and after the cable connection, before and after the cable and flash drive connection, with or without the VGA or Video Output disabled or enabled, but my Advantage does not recognize any USB device (I tried with 2 flash drive, a keyborad and an optical mouse. Nothing to do. These devices do not work with my Advantage).
It seems that the relative drivers are missing.
Someone has a sure fix or solution to this problem ??
Thanks
Battery Powered USB Hub...
This device should work well with the x7500/Advantage. It doesn't require you to carry around a bulky power plug. It runs off of 4 AAA batteries and provides power for up to 4 USB devices. Since the x7500/Advantage has limited power and can't power external drives itself, this is a nice addition and cheap. Hope someone finds it useful.
http://www.radioshack.com/sm-cyberpower-4-port-battery-powered-hub--pi-2259675.html
I have the Dopod U1000. I have connected a thumb drive and a USB mouse without issue. The mouse is useless as far as I can tell as there is no pointer though the buttons work.
I have no problems with a T-Mobile Ameo and a 1Gb Corsair USB Flashdrive - don't even need a soft reset. It's listed as 'Hard Disk' on the Ameo.
Question though: can I just unplug it when done? I'm used to 'safely removing hardware' on the PC, and it just feels wrong unplugging it from the Ameo, but I can't see any similar 'safely remove' method.
Hi.
It depends of the usb device. My 1GB pen drive is recognized but my 4GB isnt recognized (my 160 GB isnt). So I suppose If the usb device isnt powered then only "very low powered" devices are recognized...
If I connect my 160 GB and I plug it to AC then It is recognized correctly...
Does mini usb-usb host cable exist? Where to buy it?
THX!
Look this one http://www.pixmania-pro.it/it/it/255677/art/cowon-iaudio/cavo-usb-host.html#
seems to be what I'm looking for...don't you?
spmc said:
I have the Dopod U1000. I have connected a thumb drive and a USB mouse without issue. The mouse is useless as far as I can tell as there is no pointer though the buttons work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search the forum for the Modaco Mouse driver. It has a mouse pointer and works flawlessly with a USB Mouse!
4 in 1 Cable
I found te following description of this cable:
http://www.expansys.com/htc/p_htc_item.aspx?i=145166
The HTC SC V100 4-in-1 cable can split the HTC proprietary 16-pin interface on the Advantage into these 4 functions:
- USB 1.1 host (supports USB low power): Plug USB accessories into the USB standard A female port. The host can support these accessories:
1. Thumbdrive
2. Card reader
3. USB keyboard
4. USB mouse
- VGA output: Connect the Advantage to output the screen contents to a projector or PC monitor
- TV output – S-video: Connect the Advantage to output the screen contents to a TV through the S-video interface
- TV output – Composite Video: Connect the Advantage to output the screen contents to a TV through the composite video interface (AV cable)
Technical Details:
Resolution: 640 x 480 pixels, 262K colours
Cable length: 100mm ± 10mm
Connectors support:
- HTC specific 16-pin male for connecting to the Advantage
- USB standard A (Female)
- VGA D-sub (Female)
- S-video (4-pin) out (Female)
- Composite video out (Female)
4
Hi,
I have the HTC 4 in 1 cable for the T-Mobile Ameo (HTC Advantage 7500) and the ability to access a USB thumbdrive or stick appears to depend on the device.
The following devices worked without a hitch:
- Kingston DataTraveler 1GB
- Q motion 1 GB
- SanDisk MobileMate SD+ (This a SD card reader in a USB stick format, very handy to copy data from a SD/miniSD/microSD card to your 7500 without going through Activesync)
Another noname USB stick that I had did not work.
So the trick is to find a low powered USB stick.
Cheers,
Tim
Please can someone give me some exaples about how could I use
Video/S-Video/ option in 4 in 1 cable, considering that I can image how to properly use VGA out and USB host?
THX so much!
Hi,
before I buy it, could it work?
USB 2.0 (compatible 1.x)
Adapter USB from Type A (female) to mini USB 5pin (male)
THX so much!
asci said:
Hi,
before I buy it, could it work?
USB 2.0 (compatible 1.x)
Adapter USB from Type A (female) to mini USB 5pin (male)
THX so much!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that should work for you. I'm sure it's not more than $5.00 USD. ;-)
asci said:
Hi,
before I buy it, could it work?
USB 2.0 (compatible 1.x)
Adapter USB from Type A (female) to mini USB 5pin (male)
THX so much!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you hoping to connect USB accessories to your Athena with this?
If so, it will not work.
Only the 4 in 1 Host cable connected to the ext USB socket will do that.
This adaptor will only connect to the Sync & Charge socket, and will not provide USB Host capabilities.
Pantaloonie said:
Are you hoping to connect USB accessories to your Athena with this?
If so, it will not work.
Only the 4 in 1 Host cable connected to the ext USB socket will do that.
This adaptor will only connect to the Sync & Charge socket, and will not provide USB Host capabilities.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So it will not provide me host function...?
Than the HTC cable should have something like a "chip" in it to provide host, is it right?
Yes, the USB Host chip must be either in the addon cable, or linked to the extUSB socket in the Athena. But definitely not the sync & charge socket.
Does somebody know yet if this device needs pin4 and pin5 connected (ground) for fast-charging on micro-usb?
On my kaiser I needed to connect these two to be able to charge in my car with my standard USB-charger.
To keep this charger as a universal charger (hope its 2 Amperes won't fry my HD2), I need to buy new cables or a mini-usb to micro-usb adapter and might need to modify them.
I noticed that the battery on my kaiser was getting fairly hot on this 2amps. Is there a protecting circuit, or is this in a safe range for those batteries?
amperes of you charger are max current, wchich you cat have from the charger... it is all about, how much leo will take it is about voltage...
and sorry, no idea about this connectivity... if you will tell me, how to check this, i will check it for you...
So, if I understood correctly, the device determines how much Amps to be drawn?
If you take the wall-charger and you look onto the micro-usb plug:
Code:
_____________
\ , , , , , /
\_________/
PIN: 5 4 3 2 1
For a Kaiser device to fastcharge , pin 5 and 4 must be connected together.
On normal USB-cables (micro and mini) for data, pin4 has no function, it isn't even wired in the cable.
Do you have a volt-meter to check this?
Thanks!
USB A male to micro USB A male cable versus USB B cable?
Hello guys,
I bought my HD2 yesterday ! I am very happy with it.
I would like to buy 2 more cables on ebay (1 for the office, 1 for home).
Should I buy the
- USB A male to micro USB A male cable
OR
- USB A male to micro USB B male cable
I am a bit confused here.
I see 2 types of cables on ebay, not sure which one to buy!
Any ideas?
Thanks
If my assumptions are correct, and the cables work like on the Kaiser device, it's:
- USB A male to micro USB A male cable (for fast-charging, works with generic-usb car charger - NO data connection)
edit: WRONG, because micro-A-plug is not compatible with micro-B-socket.
- USB A male to micro USB B male cable (for data-connection and slow USB-charging)
Still needs confirmation by an HD2-user, but I don't think HTC changed something going from mini to micro-plug. (I think they dropped EXT-usb design for having an extra 3,5mm headset-jack instead. - but that shouldn't confuse you)
Well, not exactly:
Type A is to be plugged into host-device (the one supplying power to the other device, usually the charger or your computer), whereas type B is to be plugged into the target device (in this case, the HD2).
This typology exists to prevent you from linking two power suppliers at both ends of the cable...
So what you need is a "USB Type A to Micro USB Type B" cable
That's the original USB-specs, you are referring to.
Mini/micro-A-plugs are using pin4-to-ground by these USB-spec, for electronically differenciating these.
What I wanted to pinpoint, is that HTC decided to mark pin4-to-ground for detection of their charging equipment.
And since micro-A plugs fit into micro-B sockets, you should be able to use a "USB A male to micro USB A male cable" for your charging needs (without modifying your micro-B cable, which can be quite tricky because of its size)
edit: I was wrong with that, it's the other way round, sry. Does the HD2 have a AB-socket then? I believe it's a regular B-socket.
Then if I stand correctly, you will still need a special modified micro-B-cable for charging.
To make it even more difficult, HTC-design does not charge the Kaiser with a regular mini-b-cable on a car-charger, because there was no data-signal on it.
My intention of this thread was asking, if this behavior has changed when going from mini to micro-usb design, and is still an unanswered question.
sayborg said:
Hello guys,
...
I would like to buy 2 more cables on ebay (1 for the office, 1 for home).
Should I buy the
- USB A male to micro USB A male cable
OR
- USB A male to micro USB B male cable
I am a bit confused here.
I see 2 types of cables on ebay, not sure which one to buy!
Any ideas?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...same for me. may I have a clear and "safe" answer for dummie?
- USB A male to micro USB A male cable
OR
- USB A male to micro USB B male cable
Thanks a lot.
only USB-B-male fit into the device, boy!
Well, I've seen unboxing videos now, and the wall-charger ... is a normal-USB-plug-in device like a car-charger. Seems that my intention of this thread is obsolete.
In light of the EOL status of the Bionic, this method may no longer be the most cost effective, as the HD dock is now $24 on Amazon, before shipping. Still, this is a cheap way to use usb devices away from a tv or monitor. Please keep all of this in mind before considering this option.
Many Bionic users have wondered if they could somehow use USB host without having to buy an expensive dock. Well, I have just finished testing a method that works. Now please note it's not the sleekest or most portable of methods. Still, it works.
Test Build - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0056.jpg
You may be wondering why I am using a Y USB cable. In my testing, I have come to the conclusion that Motorola intentionally crippled the phone's OTG functions. It appears that the host mode only works when TWO priorities are met. First, the phone MUST be receiving power. Second, a hub MUST be used. If either of these is not met, the OTG mode stays offline.
Because this method requires extra power, you have to have a powered USB port nearby. Some USB power packs may put out enough power, but it's still uncertain. However, since my Scosche solar battery pack worked both for the Bionic alone and for this build, it could be possible that anything that works for the Bionic will work for the build as well. Also, I have no way of testing this in a car at the moment.
Action Shot - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0052-1.jpg
In the action shot, I am testing a 4GB SanDisk Cruzer. I did run other tests and usb keyboards and mice will work. I used a wireless Targus mouse, as well as a wireless HP mouse and keyboard. They all worked. Sadly, that is the extent of my current HID tech at the moment.
One thing I have observed in my tests is that you should have all of your rig connected before hooking it up to your phone. That includes external power. Not doing so could cause your hub to be recognized much more slowly, or not at all.
I would also like to note that although many hubs allow for AC/DC power adapters to be used, most hubs won't send power through the host port. That is why the Y cable is necessary. But don't worry! I believe that if you attach the power connector of the Y cable to one of the ports of your powered hub, this should give you all the power you need for the phone to charge and activate the OTG mode.
Here's what you need.
USB hub with mini USB port for connecting to host device($5-$20)
Y USB cable($4)
USB Type A Female-USB Micro Male adapter($1-2)
Build subtotal-$10-$26, before tax or shipping. Depending on what you already own, this could still be cheaper than an HD Dock.
All hubs with a mini usb host port should work for this build. But if there are any that don't, please give me the make and model info so I can add them to the list below.
Hubs Confirmed Unusable
None so far
Thank you for looking this through. I hope it helps.
Update 11/7/12- Still works on the 246 OTA.
silversonic1 said:
Many Bionic users have wondered if they could somehow use USB host without having to buy an expensive dock. Well, I have just finished testing a method that works.
Now please note it's not the sleakest or most portable of methods. At this writing, I am still waiting on USB OTG connectors that are known to work for other devices. However, I didn't want to hold back a successful result while waiting on an unknown.
Test Build - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0056.jpg
You may be wondering why I am using a Y USB cable. Put simply, it gives the power needed to charge the phone and to power the hub. EXTERNAL POWER IS NECESSARY. Because this method requires extra power, you have to have a powered USB port nearby. Some USB power packs may put out enough power, but it's still uncertain. However, since my Scosche solar battery pack worked both for the Bionic alone and for this build, it could be possible that other packs that work for the Bionic will work as well.
Action Shot - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0052-1.jpg
In the action shot, I am testing a 4GB SanDisk Cruzer. I did run other tests and usb keyboards and mice will work. I used a wireless Targus mouse, as well as a wireless HP mouse and keyboard. They all worked. Sadly, that is the extent of my current HID tech at the moment.
One thing I have observed in my tests is that you should have all of your rig connected before hooking up your phone. That includes external power. Not doing so could cause your hub to be recognized much more slowly, or not at all.
Here's a list of the parts used. (Will update specifics if requested.)
USB hub with USB-mini interface for host device($5-$20)
Y USB cable($4)
USB Type A Female-USB Micro Male adapter($1-2)
Build subtotal-$10-$26, before tax or shipping. That's a lot cheaper than $55-$100 on an HD dock.
Thank you for looking this through. I hope it helps.
(Also, if this thread is in the wrong place, I'm sorry. I didn't think this was necessarily an accessory thing, but rather a way to utilize a built-in feature.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats freaking awesome dude
iNsAnEmOd said:
thats freaking awesome dude
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad you see it that way. It's my hope that this works for any Motorola device that is built with a lapdock mode.
I'm hoping someone makes an app that allows me to use my tablet for a keyboard and mousepad for the webtop. I'm not a fan of hanging out within 6 feet of my tv when using the webtop.
Sent from the Evil Empire
smokedkill said:
I'm hoping someone makes an app that allows me to use my tablet for a keyboard and mousepad for the webtop. I'm not a fan of hanging out within 6 feet of my tv when using the webtop.
Sent from the Evil Empire
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, this rig works with wireless keyboards and mice. True, not the same as a tablet, but it'll get you further from the tv.
As for what you are suggesting, I thought I had heard some people were working on something similar. I'll PM you if I find it.
xda premium is insane! ... In a good way.
What Components
What is the amperage output of the power source your using? Also what is the model number of the usb hub your using? i tried a usb hub i had but it didnt work. Also did you have to bridge the pin 4 to ground on the micro plug in essence creating a otg cable?
codenamefly21 said:
What is the amperage output of the power source your using? Also what is the model number of the usb hub your using? i tried a usb hub i had but it didnt work. Also did you have to bridge the pin 4 to ground on the micro plug in essence creating a otg cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok. One thing a a time.
Power.
In the action shot, I used my laptop. However, the charger that comes with the phone works as well. That's 5.1volts, 850mA
Model of hub.
I have tested 2 different hubs at this point. At the moment, the one from the photos is unavailable, so I can't get the model info from it now. However, the other I tested is a Manhattan 4-port USB hub, model 160612.
Connector.
I made no modifications to the connectors that I have used. They were, however, already being marketed as OTG adapters. I ordered the one from the pictures on dealextreme. I recently bought newer ones from ebay that are angled up the side of the phone. The new ones work as well.
I suggest that you make sure all of your connectors are secure. A proper connection will have the phone charging while the hub receives power. If it fails to connect to a device after 1 minute when you make your first connection, disconnect the phone and than reconnect.
If you still have trouble after, please post what you're using along with a pic of your setup. With any luck, we'll get it all sorted out.
Working portable prototype
I have a working portable prototype using a 9v battery as the power source. I think the problem with the initial test is that i wasnt waiting long enough for the phone to detect the usb hub and the memory card. Now i have it working fully. I have tried 2 different usb hubs and both worked. 1 was the micro innovations usb204n it worked but was a bit bulky. The second was one i bought from a store local to my home called biglots its an E Source brand 4port usb 2.0 $7. Its nice and slim with an extra ac port on the side. The setup ill be creating is i will wire a 9v battery to a 7805 voltage regulator (with an inline power switch of course) soldered directly to the pins of the ac port. Then i will desolder the usb plug and solder in my homemade otg cable. So all you will have to do is plug it directly to the phone plug in the usb drive and then flip the power switch. i dont wanna post pictures of the ugly prototype so ill have pictures of the final product this weekend. I will say that i found out a usb hub is not needed to use a mouse but the otg cable is. Thank you silversonic for your help
codenamefly21 said:
I have a working portable prototype using a 9v battery as the power source. I think the problem with the initial test is that i wasnt waiting long enough for the phone to detect the usb hub and the memory card. Now i have it working fully. I have tried 2 different usb hubs and both worked. 1 was the micro innovations usb204n it worked but was a bit bulky. The second was one i bought from a store local to my home called biglots its an E Source brand 4port usb 2.0 $7. Its nice and slim with an extra ac port on the side. The setup ill be creating is i will wire a 9v battery to a 7805 voltage regulator (with an inline power switch of course) soldered directly to the pins of the ac port. Then i will desolder the usb plug and solder in my homemade otg cable. So all you will have to do is plug it directly to the phone plug in the usb drive and then flip the power switch. i dont wanna post pictures of the ugly prototype so ill have pictures of the final product this weekend. I will say that i found out a usb hub is not needed to use a mouse but the otg cable is. Thank you silversonic for your help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am certainly looking forward to seeing what all you have come up with. Just take your time. After all, I'm sure there are those who are willing to build a more stylish solution than I have up top.
Battery powered usb hub
Ok so i finished the battery powered usb hub that connects to any micro usb phone but it was to bulky using the 9v battery. So i came up with another design using an old cell phone battery. So it is rechargeable as soon as i add the on off switch it will be finished.
---------- Post added at 09:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:44 PM ----------
The usb hub was just too bulky using the 9v battery
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Rechargeable battery powered usb hub with otg cable
Here is the finished hardware. I took pictures before i seal it all up so yall could see what all i did. The usb hub has a otg cable that plugs into your phone. It has a 950mah cell phone battery and the circuitry from an emergency charger that converts 2 aa batteries (3v) to 5v. Also on the circuitry was an led flashlight so i decided to keep it in there just in case . The only problem was that the off switch that was on the circuit wouldn't shut off the power to the hub for some reason so i put a secondary switch on the power wire to the hub. I had a problem with the charger charging the battery because it charges the battery based on voltage and the capacitors were screwing that up so i put a diode on the power going into the up-scaling circuit board but not as to break the connection with the charger to battery wires.
That is certainly the most mobile solution to USB host so far. Kudos!
problem
I was having a problem soon after I put everything together. Anytime I plugged the phone in the circuit would shut down because to much amperage was being pulled from the battery and as a safety thing lithium batteries will shut down so they wont over heat I finally realized all I had to do was put an 8ohm resistor on the power wire going from the usb hub to the phone. 8ohm only because that was what I had. I tried a 1/2ohm resistor and it worked but the less amperage being pulled from the battery the longer it lasts and the circuit doesn't get as hot.
hey man, thanks a lot for your research! i hopped on this thread and about 30 seconds later i had my wireless (unifying usb receiver) logitech keyboard and mouse working
had a male->male usb cable, usb hub, and micro usb male -> full female lying around. plugged everything in and presto!
the touchscreen monitor doesn't work though for webtop
More than likely because touch screen drivers aren't as generic as mice or keyboards. But it was a good thing to try out. Mind sharing the make and model info? It will be helpful to others to know what to expect.
Mine works, cheapo Micro Center hub
I actually spoke with the OP this weekend, and before I read his reply, I was up and running. Sadly, I bought a Manhattan hub based on his findings, which was a bit pricey given the current price of normal USB hubs. I paid $15 on ebay for one, and when I got it, it didn't work. I then bought a usb Y cable from ebay as well, and that was the culprit, that cable was necessary for any hub, regardless if it uses an AC power adapter or not.
On a good note, that means that there's a good chance cheaper (and easier to find) USB hubs may work. The one I'm currently using is Gear Head brand, was $9 at Micro Center. That hub without using the included power cable, and just using the Y usb cable bought separately and the OTG adapter on ebay got me up and running.
Hmmm...now that I look, it seems the hub I got for $9 went up to $15 anyway, but here's what I used incase you have a MC closeby and don't feel like waiting for shipping. Search for SKU 280750 on Microcenter's site. I'm new here so it won't let me post URL's.
Bad news is you'll be paying a total of around $20 for this project, the good news is that may be the maximum you'd be paying, and that's if you buy a $15 usb hub. Honestly, I'd say just look around local stores for one cheaper that has a mini USB port to connect it to the phone + external power usb port (i.e. a laptop next to the phone), and if it doesn't work, return it as long as you can box it up without it looking demolished. Best of luck to everyone, but I hope my verification shows there may be more hope since the Manhattan model is fairly hard to find at a cheap price.
silversonic1 said:
You may be wondering why I am using a Y USB cable. In my testing, I have come to the conclusion that Motorola intentionally crippled the phone's OTG functions. It appears that the host mode only works when TWO priorities are met. First, the phone MUST be receiving power. Second, a hub MUST be used. If either of these is not met, the OTG mode stays offline.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd imagine they didn't want both the phone and Lapdock trying to send power over USB simultaneously.
Thanks for the guide, it was useful
mossadacity said:
I'd imagine they didn't want both the phone and Lapdock trying to send power over USB simultaneously.
Thanks for the guide, it was useful
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome. I have updated to the ICS leak, so I will have to test again, just to be sure that nothing has changed.
3d printed docking station
silversonic1 said:
More than likely because touch screen drivers aren't as generic as mice or keyboards. But it was a good thing to try out. Mind sharing the make and model info? It will be helpful to others to know what to expect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the delayed reply.
I buy generic cables from meritline.com, so there is no brand on them :good:
I think I'm the first person on Thingiverse to create an accessory for the droid bionic, what do you guys think of it:
That was iteration #1, to get the dimensions correct. From here, I can go anywhere. Do folks have any dock dreams they'd like to see come to fruition?
For a while now I've wanted to be able to use my waterproof camera to take pictures, and use my phone to upload them to the web without needing to fire up a computer to do a transfer from the SD card to the phone. This thread inspired me to finally take the leap to work up an OTG adapter. I went on Amazon to buy the Y-cable and the little adapters, but found something better.
This (board won't let me post a link because I'm new) is a USB hub that connects a phone to one of the four downstream ports with a built-in micro USB connector cable. I ordered one up, suspecting that I could mod it to be an OTG adapter. I was right.
To do the mod, the first step is to pry the endcap off the micro USB connector and slide the cover back. This exposes the soldered wire connections. One side of the connector has three wires.
The other side has one wire and an empty solder pad.
Solder a jumper wire from the empty pad to the black wire on the other side.
Then slide the connector cover back over the connector, and press the endcap back into place. If necessary, you can secure the end cap with a drop of super glue.
Next, open the case of the hub. Mine pulled right open with only finger pressure. Use a small screwdriver to remove the circuit board. It is not held by anything other than a light press fit.
This is the back side of the circuit board.
This is the chip that runs the USB hub.
I googled the chip number and downloaded the data sheet, just to be sure there were no gotchas. There weren't any. The only modification is swapping the regular and the micro USB cables. It goes without saying that this requires a very fine soldering iron and a steady hand. Desolder both cables and reattach the micro USB cable on the Host end of the circuit board.
This lets your phone control the hub. As was mentioned earlier in the thread, the Droid Bionic won't power the hub, so you need to hook up the other USB cable to the device side of the circuit board to provide power. Only hook up the power wires. Just cut the data wires short.
Then reinstall the circuit board into the case.
And press the cover back on.
It would be easy to wire a battery to the hub either by connecting to the USB port cable, through the 5VDC power input jack, or by removing the jack and hard wiring directly to the circuit board.
To use the adapter, I plug my SD card reader into the hub, plug the power USB connector into my wall adapter (or car adapter), and plug the micro USB cable into the phone (in that order). The phone immediately loads the card as an attached storage device.
Enjoy,
Todd F.
I came across this hub:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...d=1030702&p_id=9955&seq=1&format=1#largeimage
Looks pretty nice, all USB 3.0 ports, capable of supplying a 900ma of power to each port. Good for all sorts of things, not just a tablet being connected to the computer.
What I was wondering about this is would it be possible to open it up and short the data pins so that it is only capable of being a charging device? If so, it probably wouldnt even need a connection to a PC, just need to be plugged into the power adapter. I am wondering on this because if possible, that would mean when only using 1 port it (theoretically) would be capable of sending 3.8A out to the one device if the device tried to pull that much. Since the tablet would see the shorted connection it should at least try to pull 2A. Anyway, I just thought it would be a fun project to try and modify in this way. I will probably get it soon and attempt this myself, and might even look into beefing up the internal power circuit area to make sure it can safely send 3+ amps out one port if asked to. It would be nice to use this in conjunction with a pogo connector and finally be able to charge faster than the tablet drains while gaming.
EniGmA1987 said:
... Looks pretty nice, all USB 3.0 ports, ...
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Nexus 10 USB specs "microUSB v2.0"
http://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_google_nexus_10_p8110-5084.php
Would you get value from USB 3.0 ports with a USB v2.0 interface?
To get the full USB 3.0 power of 900mA, the device has to be configured as a USB3.0 device. The hardware developer USB 3.0 command verifier tool is separate from the USB 2.0 one
I thought we had also verified the USB connector and the POGO connector are mutually exclusive in power terms, even if the charging circuit inside the Nexus 10 could be modified to accept more than 2.5A.
skally said:
To get the full USB 3.0 power of 900mA, the device has to be configured as a USB3.0 device. The hardware developer USB 3.0 command verifier tool is separate from the USB 2.0 one
I thought we had also verified the USB connector and the POGO connector are mutually exclusive in power terms, even if the charging circuit inside the Nexus 10 could be modified to accept more than 2.5A.
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Sorry, I dont scour the threads in accessories every day so thats news to me. Besides, I dont even know what "mutually exclusive" is supposed to mean in relation to this. If the pogo connector has a USB end and draws 2A from the power adapter, why wouldnt it be able to draw 2A from any source capable of putting out that much power? Your trying to tell me that the pogo connector somehow signals it is a USB2.0 device? If thats the case it wouldnt be able to draw more than the 500mA. The regular power adapter has a USB output connector after all and it can send 2A just fine. This hub has its own power adapter and doesnt try to draw the full 3.8A through a computer connection. What is the difference between the power adapter that comes with the tablet and a hub that has its own PSU to output that much and more power?
and yes I know it wouldnt transfer at 3.0 data speeds since the tablet has a 2.0 port, but I wouldn't be using the USB port on the tablet. But why would the USB somehow signal that it will only send 500mA through the pogo connector?
EniGmA1987 said:
Sorry, I dont scour the threads in accessories every day so thats news to me. Besides, I dont even know what "mutually exclusive" is supposed to mean in relation to this.
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Mutually exclusive: charge from POGO or USB, but not both at the same time
EniGmA1987 said:
If the pogo connector has a USB end and draws 2A from the power adapter, why wouldnt it be able to draw 2A from any source capable of putting out that much power? Your trying to tell me that the pogo connector somehow signals it is a USB2.0 device? If thats the case it wouldnt be able to draw more than the 500mA. The regular power adapter has a USB output connector after all and it can send 2A just fine. This hub has its own power adapter and doesnt try to draw the full 3.8A through a computer connection. What is the difference between the power adapter that comes with the tablet and a hub that has its own PSU to output that much and more power?
and yes I know it wouldnt transfer at 3.0 data speeds since the tablet has a 2.0 port, but I wouldn't be using the USB port on the tablet. But why would the USB somehow signal that it will only send 500mA through the pogo connector?
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The POGO connector, although it connects to a USB port, is not bound by the USB specification for how much it can draw. USB chargers are available that can deliver up to 3A, but it's up to the device to request this much power.
The specifications for USB 2.0 of 500mA (and 900mA for USB 3.0) are for a power and data connection, but their is an added specification for power only of 1.8A (and 5A for USB 3.0). a hub will generally adhere to the power and data specification, while the USB PSU has no data functionality (this is determined by their being a short circuit on the D+/D- USB pair).
The reason a USB 2.0 device will not draw 900mA from a USB 3.0 port, is because it's the device that negotiates the connection, and as a USB 2.0 device, it will only request the 500mA maximum from the USB 2.0 specification.
Try to think of it this way: an incandescent light bulb will not be any brighter if you increase the power source current.
Ok, but you just said everything I was talking about. So when I modify the hub to get rid of the data connection, and not even connect it to a computer and just have its power supply connected, how would that be different than simply a normal charger? The tablet would be charging through its pogo connector, and it simply plugs into the hub with a 3.8A power supply. So it wouldnt have anything to do with any USB limits then right? Cause the hub is USB3.0 ports capable so it is not like a USB 2.0 hub that wouldnt have the proper internal circuitry to push the 3.8A I will be trying to draw.
EniGmA1987 said:
Ok, but you just said everything I was talking about. So when I modify the hub to get rid of the data connection, and not even connect it to a computer and just have its power supply connected, how would that be different than simply a normal charger? The tablet would be charging through its pogo connector, and it simply plugs into the hub with a 3.8A power supply. So it wouldnt have anything to do with any USB limits then right? Cause the hub is USB3.0 ports capable so it is not like a USB 2.0 hub that wouldnt have the proper internal circuitry to push the 3.8A I will be trying to draw.
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If you short the D+/D- pins, you can then use the hub as a standard charger PSU, capable of delivering 3.8A.
The issue is that current gets pulled, not pushed. It doesn't matter how many Amps you provide, the Nexus 10 charging circuit is only capable of pulling a maximum of 2.5A. (datasheet for the charge circuit can be found here).
From earlier posts (in one of the POGO threads, I think), there were found to be kernel limits restricting the SMB347 charging to 2A.
First it must be USB type c to USB A. 3.0
What USB standard nobody seems to know. For sure but most tell me its a USB 3.0 At the A end.
And USB Type C at the other end.
Next we need to know what is required in the cable to support Dex.
Next we need to know what is required to support Samsung Fast Charge standard. I hear its not the same as Quick Charge.
Is there any cable out there that does all these things.
I know the cable that comes with the phone does not do this.
i.e. I fails in the USB transfer speed dept.
In short.
Dex compatible,
Fast Charge compatible. As per this link we only need Fast Charge 2.0
But I wonder why does Samsung Claim to use its own standard. i.e. what is the diffirence between the Samsung standard and QC standard.
https://www.qualcomm.com/media/documents/files/quick-charge-device-list.pdf
USB 3.0 Standard compatible for high speed data transfer.
(They say if the USB A port is blue and has more than 4 pads it will work).
Ps: So far I have figured that my wifes One Plus 6 cable does all these jobs.
Answering my own question.
Got to amazon.
Search using this text usb type c to usb a 3.1
I got an amazon Basic from the search the USB A port is blue in color an indication that it is 3.0 It does everything Dex, fast speed transfer and fast charge.
Glad that you managed to get your cable. But for future reference any standard USB A 3.0 - Type - C charging cable will be good. However beware of multi-plug to USB A 3.0 cables as they don't have the best charging speeds, unless you have a high wattage power supply.
I'm using a nice quality INIU cable, has nice quality braided cover, a led for dark car charging, to see cable.