Related
This is a compilation of threads found on this forum as well as the BN forum. I thought having it in one place will help.
Edit: problem may be BN NC. See last paragraph
The NC is the first device that I have encountered that had intermittent wifi problems. At home, I have a mixture of Macbooks, iPod, a Viewsonic G Tablet running Android 2.2, desktops running Windows 7 and XP using various brands of USB wireless adapters and have NOT had any problems using 802.11n with WPA2/AES encryption.
From other threads: "As always, everything in this guide is completely at your own risk, I am not responsible for you messing up your device further nor am I responsible in the event that your Nook Color explodes and kills your cat, grandma, etc."
Intermittent Wifi Connection:
This is the issue where your Nook connects to Wifi and then after a few minutes the connection goes away. Typically the NC shows wifi as connected or perhaps connected and testing.
There are five variables that can cause intermittent wifi connections:
-your router
-wifi type 802.11b/g/n
-encrytpion
-wifi frequency 2.4ghz/5ghz
-NC ROM
-NC operating system
In many cases, this is due to 802.11n wifi. A digression: Wifi comes in manner flavors; 802.11b, the first standard; 802.11g, the second; 802.11n the latest standard. These flavors have to do with the physical wireless router.
In addition to the hardware, there are variations in encryption of the wifi signal: WEP, WPA, WPA2 with AES or TKIP. WPA2 with AES is the most secure. Look it up on Wiki for more details. And of course the
OS the NC is running.
In many cases, the NC will NOT connect reliably with 802.11n. I have a Dlink DIR-615 V2 wireless router and when set to 802.11n with WPA2 with AES, the NC connects but after a few minutes goes into a state of "testing connection". Setting the router to 802.11g only fixes the problem. An easy test is to go into Youtube and watch a long video. Most likely, half way through, you will loose the connection.
At work, we have a high end multi-access point Meru networking running unencrypted wifi 802.11n and I have this problem. So this may indicate a driver problem with the NC.
The Fix:
Go into your router's wireless. Select manual setup and find 802.11 mode or something to that effect. On my router, I have a choice of "mixed 802.11n, g, b", "802.11n only", "802.11g" only. Selecting 802.11g only with WPA2/AES fixes it for me.
Interestingly the NETGEAR WNR3500L-100NAS 802.11b/g/n seem to operate reliablely with the NC using 802.11n.
One post indicates that settting encryption to TKIP also fixes the problem.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...72&postcount=6
However, using TKIP opens up a hole for hackers
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempora...grity_Protocol
One solution on the nookboards and BN forum also suggested turning off 802.11n
http://www.nookboards.com/forum/index.php?topic=5669.0
http://bookclubs.barnesandnoble.com...-Problem-quot/m-p/770856/highlight/true#M3295
If you are having problems, the following information will help in diagnosing the problem:
Router brand and model number: eg: Dlink DIR-615
802.11 mode: b, g, n?
SSID visible?
Encryption: no or if yes: WEP, WPA, WPA2 TKIP/AES\
NC Rom: 1.0.1 or 1.1
NC OS:
I will try to update this guide periodically. Moderators: feel free to delete this thread if it is redundant.
Edit:
BN has acknowledged there is a problem with certain routers. From my own experience, there are many more routers that are incompatible with the NC. My assessment is that it's a driver in the BN. I have a Gtablet running 2.2 with no problems.
http://bookclubs.barnesandnoble.com...ssed/m-p/1030918/message-uid/1030918#U1030918
From BN Administrator: "In general, wifi issues can continue to be fixed by following the troubleshooting guides posted in the FAQ and in other posts. We *are* continuing to investigate reported wifi issues with certain routers that have had issues reported. At this point, we’ve investigated the Belkin F5D8231-4 and found an issue introduced with Android 2.2. We have a fix that will be included in the next release, but do not have a workaround for users. We are also investigating other routers (including the DLink DL- 624 and Westell 327W), but do not currently have a fix for them.
Please continue to post here if you encounter further problems and NOOK_Engineer and I will work together to investigate further."
EDIT 9/7/2011: After I updated to BN1.3 and then rooted with, wifi connects perfectly with 802.11n both at home and work. Work wifi consists of multi-point 802.11n. Note that this is with Dalingren's froyo 9/1/11 kernel with the BN 1.3 source drop.
Thanks for this! Do you have any ideas about intermittent wifi ONLY when on an Adhoc network from my Droid? I had no wifi issues under Rooted 1.1 but when i went to internal Froyo 0.6.6 it is almost unusable. I have upgraded to 0.6.8 and it is still not working correctly, it keeps loosing the IP or pausing the connection.
Done some digging on this, and the issue is that my NC can see either the G or the N channel from my router, but not both (even with different SSID) when G is at 2.4 and N is at 5Ghz. It will only see N on 2.4 Ghz. bah.
I like the idea of putting it all together as it took me awhile to figure it out.
FYI, my wireless modem is:
D-Link DIR-655
On WPA/WPA2 TKIP
Interestingly, I made a setting change to set the wireless mode to only n & g modes. This stopped my nook from getting any wireless till I changed back to n,g & b. Not exactly sure what this means other than it could a router specific issue but good to keep the info in one place considering it is hard to track.
necroscopev said:
Thanks for this! Do you have any ideas about intermittent wifi ONLY when on an Adhoc network from my Droid? I had no wifi issues under Rooted 1.1 but when i went to internal Froyo 0.6.6 it is almost unusable. I have upgraded to 0.6.8 and it is still not working correctly, it keeps loosing the IP or pausing the connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure of this but if it works with Rooted 1.1 but not Froyo 0.6.6, most likely a Froyo issue.
bonobomidwest said:
Done some digging on this, and the issue is that my NC can see either the G or the N channel from my router, but not both (even with different SSID) when G is at 2.4 and N is at 5Ghz. It will only see N on 2.4 Ghz. bah.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wifi chip in the NC WL1271 supports only 2.4ghz. Interestingly the kernel reports the chip as WL1273 which does support 5ghz.
I don't think the original post regarding 802.11n being an issue is correct. We have two access points running 802.11n and have no issues with the Nook Color. I have them set up to operate 802.11n at 2.5 and 5 Ghz. I connect the NC to the 2.4 GHZ radio and use the 5 GHz for my laptops. I am using a Netgear WNDR 3700s.
@jerrykur - Well that explains that. I'm trying to sprint up the learning curve as fast as i can with this wonderful device... sometimes i miss things ;-)
@Zhousibo - I suggest you grab "wifi analyzer" from the market. It's an invaluable tool for tweaking your network. For instance, it lets you see which bands are cluttered and clashing. In my neighborhood everybody (i.e. about 20+ networks) is on the default channels 1 or 6. I can literally watch as one network pops up above the noise and drops out again. In exactly the same spot in the house we have a several dB stronger signal if we move the network to a clear channel. Also bear in mind that the encryption and frequency are two totally different issues. I would vary one at a time and look at what wifi analyzer is telling you - my guess is that only adjusting frequency will affect signal strength and signal drop outs. I would also start with the simplest working setup and add or remove optiosn one at a time, watching what happens to the signal. Once you have that problem fixed, then worry about authentication issues (i seriously doubt this is the problem, i've tried all combinations of authentication on my router and they all work - just go for the most secure!)
BTW1: in wifi analyzer you can view signals as a graph in time which will let you see signal drop outs (i.e. let's you watch what is coming into the machine), combined with fpga_guy's suggested method (watching you tube - so following what is coming out of the other end of the software, so to speak), will let you nail down where the glitch is - in the network or in the machine. Similarly you could ahve two devices whatching the same or different youtube sources, if they both fail at teh same time it is a network or even further down the pipe (e.g. ISP) issue.
BTW2: if you are using VOIP, then QoS in your VOIP box could be responsible for a lot of this depending on how your wired network is structured.
BTW3: I should have explained my motivation behind these posts - I just have not had any problems with dropped connection on the NC (other than all the problems with waking in rooted ecalir) on either G or N networks. I can pretty much move around town from rememebred netweork to remembered network and almost always be connected. I'm actually extremely impressed with how well networking DOES work on this machine, especially in Frroyo. BUT my home network is pretty complex and very busy (media center PC, streaming to at least one device most of the time, multiple PC's wireless printer, wired NAS, etc) so has had a lot of fine tuning... So I'm doubly impressed at the lack of drop-outs given this deployment... hence my advice to eliminate network issues first.
Here is an update on my testing of the NC with various routers. My ipod touch, HP DV1000 laptop running Windows XP connects to every router listed without problems. This indicates either a chip or more likely an implementation problem with BN's driver to the TI wifi chip.
NC (ROM 1.1 with Auto-nooter 3.0.0) works with:
Netgear WNR3500L running 802.11n with DD-WRT WPA2/PSK
DLINk DIR615 runnign 802.11g with WPA2/PSK
Work wireless running 802.11g (router unknown)
NC does NOT work with
Sites with hidden SSID
DLINK DIR615 running 802.11n
Sites using WEP with 128bit encryption
NC connects on boot with sites using WEP 64b encryption - FC after resuming from sleep.
@bonobomidwest
My only thinking is that the NC wifi driver is not as robust with the settings (maybe it is settings, firmware, hardware, not sure).
Interestingly, I spent a bit of time away from my home network which is where I have had no problems since I made the original change (FYI, I recently upgraded from Autonooter 1.1, to Nook Froyo 0.6.7 to NF 0.6.8 and have been stable since the change). I stayed at my folks for a week as am living overseas and they have a Belkin router (can't remember model but I gave them this and was pretty good for it's time). I had issues where the wifi had problems connecting after the screen had timed out so did not use the NC as much as I wanted. I also had problems with the wifi on Galaxy S on this network even though I changed the settings.
I haven't done a scan where I am living now but it should be more than where my folks are due to living in an apartment as opposed to my folks house.
I'm at the stage where my network is not 'broke' so not actively looking to fix it but all my devices NC, Galaxy S, PS3, PSP, etc, are all working now - only the NC has had the most problems with connecting to wifi but have been resolved.
I'm having trouble connecting to an 802.11B (yes B) 11Mbps unencrypted router on the bus I commute to work with. Not sure of the brand or model. Wireless status says I'm connected, but testing. I try to browse the web with Dolphin HD, but I never connect. My iPhone connects to the bus' same router without problem.
However it connects just fine to a Linksys WRT610N v2 (flashed with TomatoUSB) running 2.4Ghz N, 40Mhz bandwidth, WPA2/AES
Running Autonooter 1.1, but given what Zhousibo said in the previous post, I'll try out NF 0.6.8.
Any new ROMs help fix WPA2 connectivity problems?
Just bought my NC and flashed a great Froyo ROM on it.
(The first one I bought had obvious hardware issues, 1bar of wifi signal in the same room as my router. Brought it back same day and had it replaced, immediately better. A known reported issue with some faulty NCs).
Had the same issues with wifi connectivity as described here and everywhere on the net. Essentially, it will connect onto the router with N speeds, but is completely unable to access any internet.
I have a great router (it can broadcast 3 separate SSIDs) but I think it doesn't play nice with the nook. So, it was great up until now =P
Router brand and model number: Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH
802.11 mode: n
SSID visible? yes
Encryption:
SSID1: (WPA+WPA2 mixed TKIP/AES) OR (WPA+TKIP)
SSID2: WPA2+AES
SSID3: WEP (yuck)
The Nook only fully connects to the WPA+TKIP mode (on SSID1) or WEP. The supposed mixed mode setting probably isn't quite as mixed as advertised. The Nook works fine on WEP, but I hate the fact the security is so poor with WEP.
I'd have no problem dropping the SSID1 settings to WPA security, except for the loss of n speeds. Part of the 802.11n specs (has to be WPA2/AES, or NO encryption--not an option). My DVR/home network is on that ssid, so I don't want to lose my n speeds.
So my question is do any other ROMs here help fix the WPA2 connectivity? I know lots of people swear their NC works fine with their WPA2 router, but I suspect their router is just more capable and is switching to WPA-TKIP discreetly.
This is not the same reported problem as having wifi cut off in sleep mode.
EDIT:
Oh, I just realized as a work-around I could put my home network on SSID2, and just the Nook on SSID1.
Get the right router...
Of course I can't speak for others, but my experience with this problem was that this problem was entirely router related. The rooted NC was very slow (to the point of almost unusable on the internet) from my home Netgear WNR834B Wireless N router, regardless of the speed settings, the channel or the security settings. I was able to experience much faster speeds (allowing UTube and Pandora to function properly) at a friend's home (generic Verizon DSL router) and at 2 public wifi locations. As a result I tried another Netgear WPN824 Wireless G Router with the same results as the other Netgear device.
Then I borrowed a couple of Linksys routers from a friend and tried them. The first, an older WRT54GS Wireless G lacking current security standards and then a WRT150N Wireless N. Both worked fine with the NC, allowing full access, with the latter operating at N mixed B, G and N speeds and WPA2 Personal security.
I am very pleased with the results after a few frustrating hours of trying to diagnose the problem. I hope this information is helpful to others. My friend and I will doing some router swapping. I may not tell him about how great the NC is!
Or maybe the NC?
jdefgts said:
Of course I can't speak for others, but my experience with this problem was that this problem was entirely router related. The rooted NC was very slow (to the point of almost unusable on the internet) from my home Netgear WNR834B Wireless N router, regardless of the speed settings, the channel or the security settings. I was able to experience much faster speeds (allowing UTube and Pandora to function properly) at a friend's home (generic Verizon DSL router) and at 2 public wifi locations. As a result I tried another Netgear WPN824 Wireless G Router with the same results as the other Netgear device.
Then I borrowed a couple of Linksys routers from a friend and tried them. The first, an older WRT54GS Wireless G lacking current security standards and then a WRT150N Wireless N. Both worked fine with the NC, allowing full access, with the latter operating at N mixed B, G and N speeds and WPA2 Personal security.
I am very pleased with the results after a few frustrating hours of trying to diagnose the problem. I hope this information is helpful to others. My friend and I will doing some router swapping. I may not tell him about how great the NC is!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep.. no doubt the right router will work with NC. But at home and at work the NC is the only device having problems. I have no luck in convincing my company to swap out 45 routers so my NC can work
waylo said:
Just bought my NC and flashed a great Froyo ROM on it.
(The first one I bought had obvious hardware issues, 1bar of wifi signal in the same room as my router. Brought it back same day and had it replaced, immediately better. A known reported issue with some faulty NCs).
Had the same issues with wifi connectivity as described here and everywhere on the net. Essentially, it will connect onto the router with N speeds, but is completely unable to access any internet.
I have a great router (it can broadcast 3 separate SSIDs) but I think it doesn't play nice with the nook. So, it was great up until now =P
Router brand and model number: Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH
802.11 mode: n
SSID visible? yes
Encryption:
SSID1: (WPA+WPA2 mixed TKIP/AES) OR (WPA+TKIP)
SSID2: WPA2+AES
SSID3: WEP (yuck)
The Nook only fully connects to the WPA+TKIP mode (on SSID1) or WEP. The supposed mixed mode setting probably isn't quite as mixed as advertised. The Nook works fine on WEP, but I hate the fact the security is so poor with WEP.
I'd have no problem dropping the SSID1 settings to WPA security, except for the loss of n speeds. Part of the 802.11n specs (has to be WPA2/AES, or NO encryption--not an option). My DVR/home network is on that ssid, so I don't want to lose my n speeds.
So my question is do any other ROMs here help fix the WPA2 connectivity? I know lots of people swear their NC works fine with their WPA2 router, but I suspect their router is just more capable and is switching to WPA-TKIP discreetly.
This is not the same reported problem as having wifi cut off in sleep mode.
EDIT:
Oh, I just realized as a work-around I could put my home network on SSID2, and just the Nook on SSID1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have similar issues. I can't use the internet reliably on my Nook Color or my EVO on my home router unless I'm running WPA+TKIP. I would prefer not to have my router setup this way though because of the security concerns and it not being much harder than WEP to crack.
Guess I'll just stick with WPA2+AES and look for another solution...
just to share some experience that hapenned to me:
In France we have an Internet box (wich is basically a router) that deserve 2 wireless network. One public shared with all user from the same Internet provider and one private for home.
At first my nook only saw the public one (wich is not really fast). The private one was not visible (or just flash in network tools on nook).
After some investigation i change the Wifi canal (from 10 to "automatic"). After that, no to see it and connect (if you forget the nook "special sleep policy")
soobaerodude said:
I'm having trouble connecting to an 802.11B (yes B) 11Mbps unencrypted router on the bus I commute to work with. Not sure of the brand or model. Wireless status says I'm connected, but testing. I try to browse the web with Dolphin HD, but I never connect. My iPhone connects to the bus' same router without problem.
However it connects just fine to a Linksys WRT610N v2 (flashed with TomatoUSB) running 2.4Ghz N, 40Mhz bandwidth, WPA2/AES
Running Autonooter 1.1, but given what Zhousibo said in the previous post, I'll try out NF 0.6.8.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried Nookie Froyo 0.6.8 on the bus this morning. It connects and gets an IP address, but still can't browse or do anything internet related.
Going to try to exchange my NC for a new one tonight, and see if things improve.
soobaerodude said:
Tried Nookie Froyo 0.6.8 on the bus this morning. It connects and gets an IP address, but still can't browse or do anything internet related.
Going to try to exchange my NC for a new one tonight, and see if things improve.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please give an update after you exchange your NC. I suspect is the wifi chip drivers and not a bad NC.
fpga_guy said:
This is a compilation of threads found on this forum as well as the BN forum. I thought having it in one place will help.
The NC is the first device that I have encountered that had intermittent wifi problems. At home, I have a mixture of Macbooks, iPod, a Viewsonic G Tablet running Android 2.2, desktops running Windows 7 and XP using various brands of USB wireless adapters and have NOT had any problems using 802.11n with WPA2/AES encryption.
From other threads: "As always, everything in this guide is completely at your own risk, I am not responsible for you messing up your device further nor am I responsible in the event that your Nook Color explodes and kills your cat, grandma, etc."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont experience any of these problems where ever i go
i have been able to connect into every coffee shop, book store, and school campus(i go to 3 different schools) plus i can hold a wifi connection at home
ill give you my router settings because it may have something to do with it
Router brand and model number: eg: NETGEAR : unknown
802.11 mode: b,g ,n
SSID visible: yes
Encryption: no or if yes: yes WPA2
NC Rom: HC preview 4
NC OS: 3.0
and my droid x works as well with the WPA/WPA2 security
Hi,
I've read alot about wifi tethering on the forums, but I'm curious if the Nook Color (rooted) is able to become a wifi hotspot itself. The reason being, I have some wireless ip cameras that I'd like to set it up as baby monitors and it would be convenient be able to watch the stream directly on the nook (instead of having to go from ip cam --> router --> nook). This would be a significantly better setup than using the stuff they sell at toysrus/target etc (and cheaper too, in some ways).
From what I've read, there's lots of info on properly setting a tethering on a phone and connect the nook to that, but nothing on having a nook as its own hotspot. Also, this would be an LAN, so there's no need for an actual connection to the web.
Thanks,
Joey
PS. Sorry if I didn't post in the correct subforum, as I'm a new member, I can't post in the development section yet.
joey12345 said:
Hi,
I've read alot about wifi tethering on the forums, but I'm curious if the Nook Color (rooted) is able to become a wifi hotspot itself. The reason being, I have some wireless ip cameras that I'd like to set it up as baby monitors and it would be convenient be able to watch the stream directly on the nook (instead of having to go from ip cam --> router --> nook). This would be a significantly better setup than using the stuff they sell at toysrus/target etc (and cheaper too, in some ways).
From what I've read, there's lots of info on properly setting a tethering on a phone and connect the nook to that, but nothing on having a nook as its own hotspot. Also, this would be an LAN, so there's no need for an actual connection to the web.
Thanks,
Joey
PS. Sorry if I didn't post in the correct subforum, as I'm a new member, I can't post in the development section yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, what a good idea. I hope you get a positive answer on this since it would open up even more capability.
Double post.
Tethering requires 2 ip connections: one for wifi and one to the rest of the net. On the phone that would be the wifi and the carrier network. Since the NC only has wifi you cannot tether.
What maybe could work if you can operate your cameras in ad-hoc wifi mode (like computer to computer without a router). You would definitely need an other linux kernel on the NC to do that. Do not know if the Cyanogenmod kernels allow for ad-hoc wifi mode on the NC.
Check on the development forum for ad-hoc wifi, again assuming your cameras can work in ad-hoc mode.
The purpose is for a LAN (closed feed), so a carrier network would be unnecessary.
I know that Barnacle Wifi Tether has the option setup a connection (and forgo the data/carrier network (under "Local Mode -- Don't wait for data connection)).
My particular problem, is the ip cam doesn't allow for ad-hoc networks ( I believe the scene is working on opening the firmware and adding this feature).
It sounds like to me, that Barnacle Tether can issue DHCP and I can connect two Nooks together. Fun fact, but useless in many ways, cuz what's the point in connecting 2 nooks.
I'm curious if anyone else might be able to shed some light on this issue. Is it possible to have the nook act as a router or an access point?
-Joey
PS. To connect the 2 nooks together, I had to enable ad hoc mode by changing the wpa_supplicant file (in another post).
PSS. For those who are interested in doing what I'm doing, my current setup for my house includes several ip cameras, router, nook color (using "ip cam viewer" software). Everything runs great inside my house as the router takes care of business. I can view/pan/tilt the baby monitor (ip cam) around on my nook which is excellent. My particular ip cam can also record audio and play audio, so I can hear the baby, but unfortunately the nook has NO mic, so I can't talk back (but who would need too??).
PSSS. The issue is currently, I can't take one of the cameras away from home (vacation or to visit family) without taking a spare router/access point with me. I was hoping for one less thing to carry (but at least routers are pretty small and cheap these days).
tvoverbeek said:
Tethering requires 2 ip connections: one for wifi and one to the rest of the net. On the phone that would be the wifi and the carrier network. Since the NC only has wifi you cannot tether.
What maybe could work if you can operate your cameras in ad-hoc wifi mode (like computer to computer without a router). You would definitely need an other linux kernel on the NC to do that. Do not know if the Cyanogenmod kernels allow for ad-hoc wifi mode on the NC.
Check on the development forum for ad-hoc wifi, again assuming your cameras can work in ad-hoc mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Joey, have you been able to come up with any updates? I am looking to get an android tablet and foscam ip camera for a similar set up. One thing that I can't figure out is how to make a direct connection to the camera without the need for a router when travelling to friends and family. Thanks!
No luck so far, the nook can't act as a HOT SPOT, and foscam/ipcam development doesn't have any updates either (for ad-hoc connections).
The cheapest solution (both time/money) is to buy a wireless AP (ASUS WL-330gE - newegg has this item for $22 after rebate). The problem is obviously the extra unit and the power cord that comes with it. It's a small unit and I can glue it down to the ipcam.
It's not the most elegant solution (tablet --> wireless AP --> ipcam), but it's still fairly small and cheaper than the stuff at babyrus.
part16john said:
Joey, have you been able to come up with any updates? I am looking to get an android tablet and foscam ip camera for a similar set up. One thing that I can't figure out is how to make a direct connection to the camera without the need for a router when travelling to friends and family. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello everybody,
I've a very strange problem with my wifi: Sometimes if my Kindle Fire HD is in standby it seams to block all other devices connected on the same band as the kindle. When i Switch on the kindle then, everything goes back to normal.
If I connect my kindle to the 5GHz band and it goes to standby, all devices on the 5GHz band doesn't work after a random period of time. They are connected, but cannot even ping the router. Devices on 2,4GHz are working normal. When I switch on the kindle, the connection of the other devices immediately starts to work again.
If I connect my kindle to the 2,4GHz band, the same happens for the 2,4GHz devices and the 5GHz devices are working normal.
My router is a Netgear WNDR3800. At first, I thought it's a problem with the router, so I've done a factory reset on it already.
Someone else experience this behaivor and/or have a Resolution/Workaround for this?
Netgear WNDR3800 - Bug in Mixed Mode - Upgrade to Firmware 1.0.0.40
eisbaer82 said:
Hello everybody,
I've a very strange problem with my wifi: Sometimes if my Kindle Fire HD is in standby it seams to block all other devices connected on the same band as the kindle. When i Switch on the kindle then, everything goes back to normal.
If I connect my kindle to the 5GHz band and it goes to standby, all devices on the 5GHz band doesn't work after a random period of time. They are connected, but cannot even ping the router. Devices on 2,4GHz are working normal. When I switch on the kindle, the connection of the other devices immediately starts to work again.
If I connect my kindle to the 2,4GHz band, the same happens for the 2,4GHz devices and the 5GHz devices are working normal.
My router is a Netgear WNDR3800. At first, I thought it's a problem with the router, so I've done a factory reset on it already.
Someone else experience this behaivor and/or have a Resolution/Workaround for this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, this is a known Bug when running firmware older than 1.0.0.38. You need to upgrade to Firmware
Version Number 1.0.0.40, you may obtain the latest Firmware from Netgear:
http://downloadcenter.netgear.com/en/Disclaimer.aspx?redirecturl=http://netgeardownload.registria.com/single_page_registration?product[sku]=wndr3800&download_url=http://www.downloads.netgear.com/files/GDC/WNDR3800/WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40.zip
Download WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40.zip to your desktop, extract to WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40. Inside the WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40
folder will be the latest firmware. You will then login to the Netgear WNDR3800 through a web browser. The
default address is usually http://192.168.1.1/ or http://www.routerlogin.com/ the default username is admin and
the default password is password. If you changed the password, use whatever password you setup. Once you
are logged into Genie Basic, you need to Select Advanced > Administration > Firmware Update. Then click
on Browse, selecting the file file inside WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40 ending with .img
WARNING!
When uploading firmware to the router, do not interrupt the Web browser by closing the window, clicking a link, or loading a new page. If the browser is interrupted, it could corrupt the firmware.
When the upload is complete, your router restarts. The upgrade process typically takes about 1 to 3 minutes.
If this does not solve your problem, respond back and I will help you to change the router to 802.11b/g/n only.
What is your maximum download rate of your ISP? Is it greater than 54Mbps? Usually not, so I find 802.11b/g
to be more stable and actually faster since the router Processor does less work, thus is able to pass packets
faster than 802.11n. The limit is rarely the ISP, it is usually the router that bogs down the traffic.
Hi,
thanks for your response.
My Firmware is 1.0.0.40 already... My ISP download rate is 100MBit/s, I bought the router because of this. I've never had a problem with it until the kindle joined my network
I not really sure if you understand my problem, because you talking about router processor load and turning off 802.11n. It's also hard to explain for me, because my native language is german and the problem is really stange to me (I learned network administration, so I've knowledge about networking).
So, I try to explain the problem again
- Kindle is in standby
- After a random amount of time, no other device on the same wifi band (like the kindle, 5GHz) is able to transfer data to the router. Devices on 2,4GHz are working normaly at that point
- When I turn on the kindle now, the problem goes away (Until it goes to standby and a random amount of time passes).
- When I turn off the wifi of the kindle the problem completly goes away, so the problem seams to be the kindle (although it should not be possible for a device to block data transfer when it is in standby, maybe it's a power-saving feature that the kindle uses and all of my other devices does not and the router cannot handle the power-saving feature correctly. But this is only a thought)
I've no problems with my download speed or something. It's "only" that sometimes the kindle starts to block all data transfer (on the same band) in my wifi network when it is in standby.
[EDIT] But I will try if turning off mixed mode helps.
Regards,
Dennis
prokennexusa said:
Yes, this is a known Bug when running firmware older than 1.0.0.38. You need to upgrade to Firmware
Version Number 1.0.0.40, you may obtain the latest Firmware from Netgear:
http://downloadcenter.netgear.com/en/Disclaimer.aspx?redirecturl=http://netgeardownload.registria.com/single_page_registration?product[sku]=wndr3800&download_url=http://www.downloads.netgear.com/files/GDC/WNDR3800/WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40.zip
Download WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40.zip to your desktop, extract to WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40. Inside the WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40
folder will be the latest firmware. You will then login to the Netgear WNDR3800 through a web browser. The
default address is usually http://192.168.1.1/ or http://www.routerlogin.com/ the default username is admin and
the default password is password. If you changed the password, use whatever password you setup. Once you
are logged into Genie Basic, you need to Select Advanced > Administration > Firmware Update. Then click
on Browse, selecting the file file inside WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40 ending with .img
WARNING!
When uploading firmware to the router, do not interrupt the Web browser by closing the window, clicking a link, or loading a new page. If the browser is interrupted, it could corrupt the firmware.
When the upload is complete, your router restarts. The upgrade process typically takes about 1 to 3 minutes.
If this does not solve your problem, respond back and I will help you to change the router to 802.11b/g/n only.
What is your maximum download rate of your ISP? Is it greater than 54Mbps? Usually not, so I find 802.11b/g
to be more stable and actually faster since the router Processor does less work, thus is able to pass packets
faster than 802.11n. The limit is rarely the ISP, it is usually the router that bogs down the traffic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Netgear WNDR3800 - Bug in Mixed Mode
eisbaer82 said:
Hi,
thanks for your response.
My Firmware is 1.0.0.40 already... My ISP download rate is 100MBit/s, I bought the router because of this. I've never had a problem with it until the kindle joined my network
I not really sure if you understand my problem, because you talking about router processor load and turning off 802.11n. It's also hard to explain for me, because my native language is german and the problem is really stange to me (I learned network administration, so I've knowledge about networking).
So, I try to explain the problem again
- Kindle is in standby
- After a random amount of time, no other device on the same wifi band (like the kindle, 5GHz) is able to transfer data to the router. Devices on 2,4GHz are working normaly at that point
- When I turn on the kindle now, the problem goes away (Until it goes to standby and a random amount of time passes).
- When I turn off the wifi of the kindle the problem completly goes away, so the problem seams to be the kindle (although it should not be possible for a device to block data transfer when it is in standby, maybe it's a power-saving feature that the kindle uses and all of my other devices does not and the router cannot handle the power-saving feature correctly. But this is only a thought)
I've no problems with my download speed or something. It's "only" that sometimes the kindle starts to block all data transfer (on the same band) in my wifi network when it is in standby.
[EDIT] But I will try if turning off mixed mode helps.
Regards,
Dennis
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
eisbaer82,
We are Network Engineers with over 30 years of experience. I really do understand your problem, we have seen it on
several Wireless Routers when running "Mixed Mode". Factory reset never solves the problem. It is my fault for not
including more detail with the last response, sorry I was in a rush. Since you have an awesome ISP and are running
100Mbps, you are correct 802.11n is your solution. To explain the problem, when a device falls a sleep, it is suppose
to release the 802.11n signal, falling a sleep. The problem is the Kindle falls a sleep and locks the 802.11n single in
an attempt to "keep alive" the WiFi Signal. What some routers do is detect this attempt to lock the signal and then
isolates the lock or plain disconnects the signal so it does not effect other users. The Netgear freezes when the
Kindle falls asleep and the locks the signal. This is a simple explanation to a complex problem. Here are your
solutions:
1. Buy a Cisco Aironet Access Point, not Linksys but Cisco. They cost about $600 USD
2. Change the router mode to 802.11n Only but this will only allow 802.11n users and may
not solve the issue.
3. Go to Google Play Store, download and install Juice Defender Ultimate . Then setup the Power Manager to Turn Off WiFi
when the Kindle sleeps.
Take care.
> 1. Buy a Cisco Aironet Access Point, not Linksys but Cisco. They cost about $600 USD
My wife will kill me if I do this
> 2. Change the router mode to 802.11n Only but this will only allow 802.11n users and may not solve the issue.
I see no setting in my router for this. Maybe with DD-WRT?
> 3. Go to Google Play Store, download and install Juice Defender Ultimate .
> Then setup the Power Manager to Turn Off WiFi when the Kindle sleeps.
I think this will be the best solution for me
Thank you,
Dennis
Netgear WNDR3800 - Bug in Mixed Mode
eisbaer82 said:
> 1. Buy a Cisco Aironet Access Point, not Linksys but Cisco. They cost about $600 USD
My wife will kill me if I do this
> 2. Change the router mode to 802.11n Only but this will only allow 802.11n users and may not solve the issue.
I see no setting in my router for this. Maybe with DD-WRT?
> 3. Go to Google Play Store, download and install Juice Defender Ultimate .
> Then setup the Power Manager to Turn Off WiFi when the Kindle sleeps.
I think this will be the best solution for me
Thank you,
Dennis
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dennis,
I completely understand, we have to keep the wife happy! :good:
DD-WRT is a Linux-based firmware for wireless routers. It is compatible
with several routers, most notably the Linksys WRT54G series (including
the WRT54GL and WRT54GS). As with similar projects, DD-WRT is a
third-party firmware designed to replace the firmware that ships
pre-installed on many commercial routers. This is done for a variety of
reasons, including the addition of features which are not typically included
in a manufacturer's router firmware. Having said all this, I would try it
since DD-WRT handles the Mixed Mode differently than the stock
Netgear Firmware. Try it!
Hi,
Having the same issue with my cheap TP-Link TL-3220 (Atheros AR9285) running OpenWRT. After some days of KFHD being connected to WLAN, the router stops accepting wireless connections. Switching from mixed mode to pure 802.11g doesn't help, but after i restart hostapd it works back again, so i guess that the problem is with it. Tried to do some debugging, but failed -- hostapd doesn't provide any info when the problem occurs, it doesn't even report about connection attempts.
To avoid it i just disable Wi-Fi when the tablet isn't used. Besides it saves battery a lot .
UPD: Just remembered that i had the same problem with parents' ZTE W300 which the same Wi-Fi chip, and the OP's Netgear WNDR3800 has some Atheros wireless chips too. Looks like KFHD has such problems with Atheros.
Netgear WNDR3800 - Bug in Mixed Mode
buggerm said:
Hi,
Having the same issue with my cheap TP-Link TL-3220 (Atheros AR9285) running OpenWRT. After some days of KFHD being connected to WLAN, the router stops accepting wireless connections. Switching from mixed mode to pure 802.11g doesn't help, but after i restart hostapd it works back again, so i guess that the problem is with it. Tried to do some debugging, but failed -- hostapd doesn't provide any info when the problem occurs, it doesn't even report about connection attempts.
To avoid it i just disable Wi-Fi when the tablet isn't used. Besides it saves battery a lot .
UPD: Just remembered that i had the same problem with parents' ZTE W300 which the same Wi-Fi chip, and the OP's Netgear WNDR3800 has some Atheros wireless chips too. Looks like KFHD has such problems with Atheros.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
buggerm,
You nailed it, the Atheros chipset has the issue, although there are some Open Source packages that are
able to solve the issue through software with different methods of "lock" and the "timing". You are also
correct that disabling the WiFi is a solution, this is why we recommended Juice Defender Ultimate. This
application automatically disabled WiFi when the tablet goes into Sleep Mode. Thank you for the feedback.
In order to get my Chromecast working with the latest Merlin flash I had to Enable the following on the "LAN / IPTV" page of Merlin firmware:
"Enable efficient multicast forwarding (IGMP Snooping)"
(If you're not familiar with Merlin version of the firmware for this router - it is essentially like the Asus firmware with some goodies / upgrades tacked on and fixes applied.)
I DID NOT enable IGMP Snooping settings in the 2.4ghz "Wireless / Professional" tab if anyone was wondering about that setting. I have limited knowledge of what these settings actually do and was just troubleshooting via trial and error.
I did a REBOOT through the router interface after setting the enabled setting in LAN / IPTV mentioned above.
Just to let you guys know as I didn't see anyone completely address it here and I was really struggling with getting my Chromecast set up on a new flash until I found this particular setting change.
I am running a pair of RT-AC66U's. (I keep one off-line that I play around with flashing Merlin and/or DD-WRT firmware and put on-line for testing purposes if something goes wrong with a flash or setting).
My version of Merlin is the latest Beta I could download at:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/bkfq2a6aebq68//Asuswrt-Merlin#lt9d2blv8a9uh
I am using "Firmware:3.0.0.4.374.36_beta1 (Merlin build)" according to my configuration page. This is the latest Beta dated 12-23-2013.
I'd be interested in finding out if anyone is using anything different with success on Chromecast with this router configuration or if this is the only configuration that works. Haven't done any network testings of any substance yet but everything seems to be running smoothly.
Pings to my internal LAN server seem to be tight anywhere from about 1-5msec.
I run rt-n66u's and haven't had any issues but I am also not running the latest merlin.
Thanks for the post so after I upgrade if I am having issues I know what to try first.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
I'm running the latest Merlin and have no issues with my cc. I haven't tweaked many if any of the router settings.
ChromeCast and Merlin firmware
Warjcowski said:
I'm running the latest Merlin and have no issues with my cc. I haven't tweaked many if any of the router settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My setup was working for a while - but after about a week or so, the setup above seemed to totally dog out my Internet connection and it was definitely something in the router as I was getting 30+ mbps download and 10-20 mbps upload which is consistent with what my ISP says they are providing to me. (Tested by hooking up my Ubuntu laptop directly to the cable modem.)
I literally couldn't run Chromecast with Netflix. Not sure why the router got so bogged down after a few weeks. So I hooked up the standard Asus firmware - this worked fine for providing Internet access at fully subscribed speeds - but now the Chromecast won't work with the most recent firmware that Asus has for the RT-AC66U. Tried IGMP snooping and it doesn't seem to matter.
I see there is a third Beta revision of the Merlin firmware - presently. I'm going to try that version on my backup version of this router and see if that presents any problem or not with the Chromecast.
Wish there was a good troubleshooting guide for CC and this router. So many settings and very little information as to what works and what doesn't when using CC with the RT-AC66U router.
Haven't had my chromecast working for months with this router now. Kind of given up. Actually not sure how I even got it set up the first time.
Must have been sheer blind luck.
A lot easier just to hook up the laptop with display port or HDMI connection and stream to the TV.
Somewhat related but I have the N66U with Tomato FW and cc not connecting for some reason. Was fine on Merlin FW
I have a RT-N66U running Merlin 374.41 build. My Chromecast was working fine until a recent Chromecast update to the 16664 firmware. Unfortunately, I did upgrade the router sometime in the same timeframe, so I don't know which is the ultimate problem. Also, I checked my "efficient multicast forwarding" setting mentioned in the OP, and it was not enabled. I will try that and see if that changes anything.
To be clear, the Chromecast seems to connect to the wireless network, but it looks like the protocol traffic is getting lost since none of the other Chromecast enabled devices on the network can see the Chromecast. To fix it, I've been having to do a factory reset on the Chromecast and go through the setup procedure every time I want to use the Chromecast.
IGMP Snooping allows/tells the router to analyze the IGMP group information of packets and handle them based on that.
This allows for more-intelligent multicast packet forwarding to specific ports rather than flooding all ports.
It's very much akin to how a network switch remembers which addresses are connected to each port and sends packets destined for that address only to that port whereas a network hub will send every incoming packet to all ports, quickly flooding available bandwidth.
Quick example case - say you have two pairs of devices communicating, A->B and C->D, all on 100 Mbps (Fast Ethernet) connection.
On a switch (assuming full switching fabric), A's traffic to B will only go to the port B is on. The same is true for C's traffic to D.
Thus, A->B traffic will have full 100 Mbps bandwidth and C->D traffic will have full 100 Mbps bandwidth (minus overhead, of course).
On a hub, A's traffic to B will still "clog the pipe" on all ports, the same with C's traffic to D.
Thus, instead of A->B having a full 100 Mbps and C->D having a full 100 Mbps, the combined traffic shares 100 Mbps.
If things are equally balanced, A->B gets 50 Mbps and C->D gets 50 Mbps, but in reality this is rarely the case.
You can also think of this like having a dynamically-created VLAN memberships for multicast traffic.
However, the potential downsides are decreased throughput and increased latency for other traffic since some processing time is required to snoop the packets. Also, if the multicast client does not properly register, or router/switch has a bug, the client might get entirely ignored and "miss" the multicast packets entirely. That's why one of the troubleshooting steps is to toggle IGMP Snooping (it's usually disabled by default, but sometimes not) to see if there is an inadvertent shunning going on.
Ok, it looks like I needed to turn TKIP back on for the 2.4GHz network. Once I switched to AES+TKIP, the Chomecast shows up again on my mobile devices.
troycarpenter said:
Ok, it looks like I needed to turn TKIP back on for the 2.4GHz network. Once I switched to AES+TKIP, the Chomecast shows up again on my mobile devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting situation. I run AES-only but I've seen router "quirks" like this in the past.
On some old routers I had "creeping" configuration issues where after repeated configuration changes the router would eventually lose its mind and I had to reset the configuration and apply settings by hand again. Sometimes in the "lost its mind" configuration it would do very strange things.
Now would be a good time to back up your router configuration, just in case you have an issue like I had in the past.
I have a chromecast running with rt-ac66u router with dd-wrt. if I forget which atm but the chromecast had issue with either tkip or aes. I changed it to the other and it now works flawlessly.
If I enable both 2.4ghz and 5ghz in my router (d-link dir-850L) my T800 will only connect to 2.4ghz. If I enable only 5ghz it will connect to 5ghz. This happens with stock, modified stock, and CM ROM. I'd prefer to enable 2.4ghz for backward compatibility with older devices, obviously.
Have you tried to just set your tab s to only 5 ghz? Instead of auto
Do'h!! never saw that before. Thanks.
But then it won't connect to my old router on the other side of the house.
I found out I can set the 5ghz band to use a different SSID. That seems to work out well.
Try WiFi manager from App Store (Google Play). Has option in settings that should address your problem.