Any one know of a company that can fix the USB port on a HTC Raider in Canada. Rogers wants to charge me $250 to fix it.
KillerbawX said:
Any one know of a company that can fix the USB port on a HTC Raider in Canada. Rogers wants to charge me $250 to fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could probably buy two new Raiders for $250! Replacement might be the best bet, as you can likely find one on Kijiji for $100 or so. If you have a local cell repair joint, give them a call, and see if they offer the replacement. It might be tricky since the USB on the Raider (as other HTC phones) is actually a special type of HDMI jack that also has USB (known as MHL).
If you're adventurous, you might track down a broken Raider and attempt a part swap yourself. I've not seen the inside of the unit, so I can't say how easy or hard that would be at any skill level...
Hope you get it fixed up!
The part is on eBay you can always try to do it yourself should be a few small solder points
Sent from my HTC PH39100 using xda premium
KillerbawX said:
Any one know of a company that can fix the USB port on a HTC Raider in Canada. Rogers wants to charge me $250 to fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A friend needed this. We ordered one off ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-USB-Pow...328529?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27c422a1d1 ) and although it required opening the phone up and voiding the warranty, it required no soldering. He doesn't open electronics up very often, and said it wasn't very hard to do.
i was babbling abt this in a thread in the dev forum, thot i'd best do it also here in the proper forum for it:
i changed the USB port in my Raider, was very simple. Six little screws, two different lengths so keep track of them. One screw also holds down the teeny cover under which is where the tiny connector resides that connects the port to the fone circuit board. Once the fone is back together that's where you make the final connection between port and fone.
Slip off the battery cover, undo the six screws, take off that tiny little cover. Carefully work off the entire back housing. There's no front housing, just the screen glass and the fone circuitry bundled together.
Micro-USB port and ribbon connector is fastened to the housing with two more of those little screws. Change out the port with the new one. New part may not be an exact duplicate of the old part: that's ok. Reassemble the fone. Under that hole left by the tiny cover, press home the miniscule plug that connects up the port to the fone.
Put back the tiny cover, fasten back all the screws, and you're done. Port cost me $9 USD plus shipping on ebay.
lowfatmilk said:
i was babbling abt this in a thread in the dev forum, thot i'd best do it also here in the proper forum for it:
i changed the USB port in my Raider, was very simple. Six little screws, two different lengths so keep track of them. One screw also holds down the teeny cover under which is where the tiny connector resides that connects the port to the fone circuit board. Once the fone is back together that's where you make the final connection between port and fone.
Slip off the battery cover, undo the six screws, take off that tiny little cover. Carefully work off the entire back housing. There's no front housing, just the screen glass and the fone circuitry bundled together.
Micro-USB port and ribbon connector is fastened to the housing with two more of those little screws. Change out the port with the new one. New part may not be an exact duplicate of the old part: that's ok. Reassemble the fone. Under that hole left by the tiny cover, press home the miniscule plug that connects up the port to the fone.
Put back the tiny cover, fasten back all the screws, and you're done. Port cost me $9 USD plus shipping on ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, dude, I know this thread is a little old, but can you PM me the link to where you bought your USB port? I think I need to replace my port (issues connecting to PC and charging requires wire wiggling), but I've read about certain ports not working with data transfer and only charging, and I don't want to make that kind of mistake.
projectisaac said:
Hey, dude, I know this thread is a little old, but can you PM me the link to where you bought your USB port? I think I need to replace my port (issues connecting to PC and charging requires wire wiggling), but I've read about certain ports not working with data transfer and only charging, and I don't want to make that kind of mistake.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this? Says OEM so I imagine you wont lose functionality.
http://www.globaldirectparts.com/product-p/htc747235-qs.htm
Thank you! And only $8 too
Sent from my Vivid 4G using xda app-developers app
Related
Ok, so i have the "power button failure" problem. No more warranty, and the local gsm repair shop can repair it, but doesnt know where the connections go, to make a bypass.
anyone has this manual, or anything that could help me?
thank you
You can't repair it.it needs a new flex cable.
Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk
cobrax2 said:
Ok, so i have the "power button failure" problem. No more warranty, and the local gsm repair shop can repair it, but doesnt know where the connections go, to make a bypass.
anyone has this manual, or anything that could help me?
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had this problem recently. Out of warranty. Sent to HTC repair center and got quoted for about $50 USD (given that I'm in Singapore, there is a physical HTC service center that I can go to).
If you want to fix it yourself, you can buy the board from ebay, this is the cheapest of them all, with tools included.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290522246328&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
You can follow some disassembling guide from ifixit or this youtube series (very detailed, but to repair the cracked screen instead) to replace the flex cable and board. Should not take more than 1 hour. I planned to do it if the quote is higher than $80, but it's not.
Let me know how it goes if you decide to fix it yourself. Take a few pictures as you go along would be great too.
Easy way to start nexus one with out power button:
1)Plug in phone through USB or wall charger.
2) take battery out
3) put battery back in real fast
Phone should boot on.
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App
thank you guys for replying, i knew i can replace the board, bu i wanted to see if i can "fix" the flex cable. i gues there are only 2 wires inside it and i need to see where those go. not to fix it myself, but the guys at the shop. i think they can use a "strap", which is a loose wire connecting the 2 points. i dont really plan on using that button very much, i got used to the trackball wake, but, i want it to work, just in case
cobrax2 said:
thank you guys for replying, i knew i can replace the board, bu i wanted to see if i can "fix" the flex cable. i gues there are only 2 wires inside it and i need to see where those go. not to fix it myself, but the guys at the shop. i think they can use a "strap", which is a loose wire connecting the 2 points. i dont really plan on using that button very much, i got used to the trackball wake, but, i want it to work, just in case
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've taken my 2 nexus apart, and I can tell you that there is no easy fix.
ok, update
i have fixed it in the gsm repair shop. well, they did
they waited to come in another faulty nexus to check which wires were faulty, compared them, and they put in a new external wire replacing the old one on the circuit board. everything works now. it costed me around 30 usd. anyway, i intend on using trackball wake though in the future, only if necessary the power button
Hi ,
Yes you can repair this problem. Besides the option of buying a new flex cable for 50-80 USD, I found in this very same forum a thread where somebody posted a picture and indications about how to repair the flex that contains the power button.
If you disassemble your N1 and remove the large flex that carries the power switch you will notice that i has two large connectors on the bottom end.
One of these has 44 pins (two rows of 22 pins). In the top row of this connector, counting from the right the pin number 10 is the one that turns the nexus one ON/OFF
The switch does this only by connecting it mmomentarily to ground.
TO FIX IT:
All you need is a fine end soldering iron, a good lens, a T5 screw driver, soldering wire and adhesive tape. And most importantly 20 cm of very thin magnet wire (enamelled copper wire of about 30 to 50 micrometers in diameter (it is thicker than hair do not worry).
Then solder an end of the wire to the pin #10 as counted in the way i described. route and tape the wire along the flex until you get to the switch.
the switch has 4 pins one pair is ground, the others go to pin #10 in the 44 pin connector. The ones that are gong to the pin #10 are actually on the side of the switch that has a golden "[" bracket. Solder the end of the wire that comes from pin #10 to any of these two pins of the switch. This completes one part of the process. (the most difficult).
The back of the board that holds the switch has a large ground plane. Solder a second piece of wire to this golden pad. From there, stretch about 30 mm of wire towards the upper corner of the logic board, and solder the end of it to the round golden pad where a screw goes. This is a ground point.
Reassemble the phone. Your power switch should now work again.
I hope this helps.
Jose
This may seem obvious to the tech savvy but not to all.
I bought a new flex cable/board on ebay. It was supposed to be new but it is obviously used. I have my doubts that it works. I am trying to test it before installing. If I press the power button, pin 10 (as described) should be electrically connected to ground, right? This is not the case with the board I have. Is the connection between pin 10 and the switch a direct trace on the ribbon cable or is something else involved? is there a diode or anything else in this circuitry? Does the battery holder come into play?
Other information. My phone does power on with the charger/remove/replace battery trick. All other buttons work.
>>>>>><<<<<< PDF With All Steps And Images Added For Your Viewing/Downloading Pleasure >>>>>><<<<<<
***If this does not belong here I appologize, and feel free to move this if necessary. I just figured the development community is most likely to take this "upgrade" on***
After seeing that someone used Palm's wireless charger on their non-palm phone; I decided to put one on my Droid Incredible.
***This was done to a completely stock Dinc. I did not use any special back, and the stock back gets to stay on (unlike in the other video that I saw)
Wireless Charging the Droid Incredible
**Disclaimer: This will void your warranty, and if you solder something wrong will probably break your phone. With that said I can in no way be held accountable for anything that occurs while performing this “upgrade” to your phone.
>>>>If anyone knows where I can buy that little void sticker that you will see in a picture below, please let me know! If we can get that sticker then our warranty is not voided by doing this.
Supplies:
1.Palm touchstone charger http://www.shopping.hp.com/product/handheld/categories/palm/4/accessories/FB300AA%23AC3
2.Palm touchstone phone back http://www.shopping.hp.com/store/product/product_detail/FB306AA%23AC3?
3.Micro USB cable
4.Soldering Iron (the finer the tip on this the better)
5.Torx T6 screw driver
6.Safe pry tool (or a small flat head screwdriver)
7.Very tiny insulated wires (I just pulled mine out of a USB cable that I cut up)
8.Electrical Tape
9.[Optional] Multimeter to test that you actually made a good connection
How To (Images are of a higher quality (12mp) so I had to stick them in zip files to get them on here):
1.The palm touchstone phone back has a sticker inside of it that encases the wireless charging receiver, so you need to peel this off. Once it is peeled off it will look like this (without the wires soldered onto it):
(Images can be seen in: Palm Receiver.7z)
2.Remove the battery cover and the battery then unscrew the back from your phone (please view a tare down video for details, there are plenty of them on you tube that I used for a reference.)
1.All you need is a torx t6 screwdriver and a safe pry tool, I used a small flat head screwdriver and it worked just fine. Unscrew the 4 screws around the sides and then carefully pry off every place that the battery cover clips on, as they also hold on the red back.
(Images can be seen in: Dinc Inside.7z)
3.Solder on some wires to the USB connector as shown in the below image without soldering onto the pins next to them. This is difficult and takes some time and patience, since these connectors are very small and close (note the polarity in the image, notated in red).
A.Also it is necessary to place a piece of electrical tape over the components right next to the connector (Green box in the image) as they will short out the power and make it impossible to charge your phone if you do not (I found that out the hard way and went back and fixed it).
B.One final note here is that I had to melt down the red phone backing inside to allow the cables to get past the case. See the green rectangle in the image above for where I had to do that. I just used my soldering iron and melted it down, it makes a pretty nice indention for the wires to fit through.
(Images can be seen in: Dinc USB.7z)
4.Now push out the rubber plug in the red phone backing next to the USB cover (this is encircled in Green in the image from step 2).
A.Run the cables that you just solder on through that so that they are sticking through to the battery compartment on your phone.
B.You can also stick on the palm receiver to the inside of your phone cover (note the direction and placement, as this is necessary to close your cover).
3.Note that I placed electrical tape over the wires. This was necessary to keep them from breaking off of the USB connector since the solder points are so small.
(Images can be seen in: Almost Done.7z)
5.Solder on the wires to the palm charger receiver and you are done. Now you just need to carefully place the wires towards the middle of the phone so that you can close the back of your phone entirely (this is another reason why the wires need to be small).
A.Note the polarity of the connection.
B.Also I put a piece of electrical tape over the connections on the palm charger receiver to protect them (not shown in the image).
(Images can be seen in: Wireless Charger.7z)
Here is a video of the end product and how it works:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOMVJ-vmWpg
Also I just verified that my compass is working without any problems.
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
ThugEsquire said:
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its been done with the Evo, but don't know anyone who did it with the Inc.
http://www.goodandevo.net/2010/06/h...rk-with-palm-touchstone-wireless-charger.html
Sounds really nice. Not gonna try it with mine because I'm too scared
Though shouldn't this be in accessories or general?
What are you doing to align the coils? My biggest concern that's kept me from this is the magnets also would mess up the compass sensors readings which I for one actually value.
Wow, you managed to bring me out of my months of silence in posting...
I feel honored that I can get you out of your months of silence
The coil alignment is handled by the magnets inside of the palm touchstone charger itself (the base unit that plugs into the wall). The metal objects that you can see in the "Palm Receiver.7z" file are actually not magnets, but small circular pieces of metal that get pulled towards the charger base when you get them close to each other. So when you have the phone off of the charger, there are no magnets to mess with anything
Also you will notice that there is a piece of metal behind the coil, and that seems to block the inductive signal all together (because I tried to put it on backwards to no avail). Therefore your phone is mostly protected from the inductive transmission.
The only thing that I noticed, is that the touchscreen on the phone is a little weird when it is on the charger, but I see the same side effects when plugging the phone into a "non-htc" charger (before performing this "upgrade"). **I also saw this on my Moto Droid when connecting it to a 1 amp charger, and I have seen this with multiple other touchscreen devices so I think it just has something to do with the frequency of the charger.
Also in case of any concerns: MY PHONE HAS IN NO WAY BEEN DAMAGED BY THIS "UPGRADE"
pianoplayer said:
Sounds really nice. Not gonna try it with mine because I'm too scared
Though shouldn't this be in accessories or general?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah, it probably should be, and may get moved (which is perfectly fine by me). I put it in here because I am a developer and much more likely to do this, so I figured the development community would be more interested.
ThugEsquire said:
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mentioned that you can't wait to see more....?
What more would you like to see? I am happy to add to the posts, but just not sure what further details you would like to see.
nevetsvsx said:
Also in case of any concerns: MY PHONE HAS IN NO WAY BEEN DAMAGED BY THIS "UPGRADE"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I trust your method, I just don't trust my shaky hands
BTW there is a multi quote button so you dont have to do a separate post for each reply
I have a rubber case on my Dinc... would I need to remove it for charging?
___________________________________
Yup.... The ones yoe momma told ya about.... Bad Seed Customs!!
I think you will be ok if it is one of those thin (about 1mm thick) rubber cases. Anything thicker than that and you would probably have to install the wireless receiver on the case itself and remove your battery cover all together.
I tested a thin rubber case that I have (no more than 1mm thick I think) that fits a Droid Eris and it charges as long as its flush to the back of my phone.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Wow, this is amazing, very well done. I think this is the first hard mod I've heard of for an Android. I guess gold cards were a sorta gray area.
I've had my Incredible modded to work with a Touchstone since around June of last year. It works great, but I must caution anyone thinking of doing this to be VERY careful. Experience with soldering and a steady hand is a must. One could fairly easily mess up their phone attempting to do this.
Could you do this with a powermat if you wanted to? I have a few laying around I could use.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Paul600k5 said:
Could you do this with a powermat if you wanted to? I have a few laying around I could use.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, if you wanna take apart one of those generic receivers and try to fit it inside your phone!
nevetsvsx said:
You mentioned that you can't wait to see more....?
What more would you like to see? I am happy to add to the posts, but just not sure what further details you would like to see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I originally meant was pictures. But now that you've added them and I've seen the glory, this mod is really quite impressive and I'm thrilled you shared it with us. But now that I think about it, could this also do USB wirelessly? That would be pretty amazing.
ThugEsquire said:
What I originally meant was pictures. But now that you've added them and I've seen the glory, this mod is really quite impressive and I'm thrilled you shared it with us. But now that I think about it, could this also do USB wirelessly? That would be pretty amazing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the transmission of data wirelessly is achieved through modulated EM waves. This is simple inductance: a changing electric field creates a magnetic field, a changing magnetic field generates an electric field, so a current carrying loop placed near another loop of wire will induce current in the other loop. The receiver in the phone is engineered to "create" the "proper" amount current to charge your battery when combined with the base. In theory yes, but not with this equipment.
How does the phone treat a USB cable being plugged in - will it charge ok, and have your data transfer rates been adversely effected? I wouldn't think so, since you're only touching the power...
Mr. Spontaneous said:
How does the phone treat a USB cable being plugged in - will it charge ok, and have your data transfer rates been adversely effected? I wouldn't think so, since you're only touching the power...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have used the USB charger and data transfer cables without any problems at all. Also I have copied some files off of my phone to my PC since the "upgrade" and did not notice any extended times or anything that would remotely make me think something was wrong.
I did not run a speed test before and after to see if anything slowed down, but as you said we are only touching the power pins, so I highly doubt anything has changed.
So the microUSB port on my Captivate stopped working the other day (can't connect to pc or charge without applying significant pressure in a certain direction) and I'm thinking about fixing it my self.
I'm really just looking for some advice from people who have done this before. What kind of soldering gun should I get (or will the Radio Shack special work)? What kind of soldier should I use? And should I think about buying a new micoUSB port from one of these parts stores?
Thanks in advance!
I wouldn't fix it myself...there is more to it then you think
kusanagisan18 said:
So the microUSB port on my Captivate stopped working the other day (can't connect to pc or charge without applying significant pressure in a certain direction) and I'm thinking about fixing it my self.
I'm really just looking for some advice from people who have done this before. What kind of soldering gun should I get (or will the Radio Shack special work)? What kind of soldier should I use? And should I think about buying a new micoUSB port from one of these parts stores?
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd stay away from radioshack soldering irons. I bought a cheap $30 Weller iron and it is way better. The repair is not horribly hard. The worst part is removing the bad one without lifting a pad. I lifted a pad on one I tried fixing and screwed up one of the pads and a tiny bit of the trace. Needless to say I could not fix the tiny damaged trace and sold it off for parts. But the new usb went on without a hitch with some good solder and some desoldering braid.
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
chrislj said:
I'd stay away from radioshack soldering irons. I bought a cheap $30 Weller iron and it is way better. The repair is not horribly hard. The worst part is removing the bad one without lifting a pad. I lifted a pad on one I tried fixing and screwed up one of the pads and a tiny bit of the trace. Needless to say I could not fix the tiny damaged trace and sold it off for parts. But the new usb went on without a hitch with some good solder and some desoldering braid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you think it's possible to fix it without replacing it? IE Just apply more solder or try to re-solder the current contacts?
connexion2005 said:
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll probably end up using your service if this is over my head, thanks for the link!
kusanagisan18 said:
Do you think it's possible to fix it without replacing it? IE Just apply more solder or try to re-solder the current contacts?
I'll probably end up using your service if this is over my head, thanks for the link!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's virtually NEVER the connection between the leg and pad that is the issue, but rather always the inner connector that touches with the pins on the USB cable itself. So basically no, re-flowing the legs to pads won't do anything. I always ohm through the leg to the pad before replacing them to check if it's an easy fix but that's never the case and the whole connector ends up being replaced...
Download Jig Works But Won't Charge/Connect USB
I think I am having the same problem. I can use a download jig that I got from MobleTech some time ago, but the USB will only connect if I fiddle with the connection and will drop out almost immediately. I first noticed it because the phone was not charging overnight. I was running teamhacksburg ICS and thought I had developed the charge bug, but appears that I might need a new USB connection. Have tried differn't computers with same results. Is it safe to say I need a new USB port for my Captivate or are there some other things I should check. Thanks for the help.
If it's finicky like that then yes almost certainly.
So how would you go about replacing your USB port on your Captivate? or is it not worth trying for most people? One of the pins on my port came loose and got smashed to the outside shell. In trying to bend it back, it broke of course. So now no Download mode from Jig and no computer recognition.
connexion2005 said:
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am having the same problem. Could I get a PM or a link to your repair?
YzRacer said:
I am having the same problem. Could I get a PM or a link to your repair?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could I also get the link?
sebastienhwb said:
Could I also get the link?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never got a PM but I followed the clues over to mobiletechvidoes. Once you add usb repair to your cart and check out you will receive an email about sending in the phone (after an hour or so) and I have just sent one in. It says send the phone without a battery or battery cover and I went ahead and wiped the phone just for safety.
Anyone ever find the link or know how much this costs?
in my sig if i remember correctly it is about $35
I paid $35 and it worked out well for me! Mobiletechvideos.com is where I signed up and they were fast and professional.
Fixed with vice grips
Just did this and slowly applied a little pressure and adjusted for more pressure at the end of the USB metal connection. It's a sturdy fit now and I'm not losing connectivity.
So the fix is to replace the connector altogether? Does anyone have a digikey part # or equivalent?
My issue seems to be that it charges, but I have no data connection. The pins don't need a reflow. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare micro usb cable to splice and check continuity on hand.
Is there any way I can talk with the enumerator chip to make sure it isn't fried, or should I just do the continuity check?
hi
I have the same problem, i searched on sites how to change it your self, but i couldn't find anything
Just check his signature.
http://mobiletechvideos.mybigcommerce.com/
other stuff available from them too. i am a past customer. they saved my cappy
MICRO USB
Anyone else had the USB port become mildly loose (moves back and forth if any pressure is put on the cable)? I believe its on its way out.
Did a search but surprisingly couldn't any similar threads.
My USB port has become gradually looser to the point that charging it means resting the phone in such away that it applies pressure to the USB connection for it to make contact and charge the phone.
Initially some cables worked better than others but they are all starting to fail now.
The magnetic port has also failed. Does anyone have a solution for fixing the USB port?
Hi
You'll probably have to send your phone to a repair center to replace the "exhausted" usb-port. If you are handy with a soldering iron and have the guts to crack your device open, you should be able to acquire the parts ad i.e. eBay or some such and replace the port yourself. Can't be too hard seeing as it is only a four or six-pin connector that attaches to the board...
Can't figure out why the magnetic charging-port won't work though...
StaticGTF said:
Hi
You'll probably have to send your phone to a repair center to replace the "exhausted" usb-port. If you are handy with a soldering iron and have the guts to crack your device open, you should be able to acquire the parts ad i.e. eBay or some such and replace the port yourself. Can't be too hard seeing as it is only a four or six-pin connector that attaches to the board...
Can't figure out why the magnetic charging-port won't work though...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey. Thanks for the reply.
I used a magnetic connector that was too powerful I reckon and eventually pulled out the magnetic port. I glued it back in but was never the same after that.
On the USB port, I have the phone for 18 months - should I be able to get it repaired under warranty?
Hey guys, i have been searching on ebay and on google, for a replacement charging port, but i can seem to find the correct one. Some show the charging port only and others whats seems to be the daugtherboard that holds the charging port. Has any of you order from here before? http://www.bluphoneparts.com/blu-vivo-xl-sub-pcba-with-charging-port/, they have the pcb with the charging port on it, but no image. any help will be greatly appreciated thank you.
I purchased the exact part that you linked and this fixed the charging port issue on my Vivo XL. Will need a bit of soldering skill to remove the speaker from the old board and solder onto the replacement board -- the solder pads are small, but not difficult if you have some experience. Two ribbon connectors need to be pulled up (2x small connectors, not the large metal -- that is a cover) and the board itself is attached to the frame by some adhesive.
Now the phone works great again -- well worth the $27 (w/shipping) to fix this common charging port issue.
advice
Hi did you get though with changing the port, my port needs changing but that part is no longer available, there is another site that is selling just the charge port. I have no idea how to change the port. I'm planning on asking someone with a soldering iron for help, is it difficult. Also with shipping to Trinidad the part is 22 us, there's a nexus 5x port on eBay for about 5 us , is there any chance that it will work.
Thanks
prettygirlleanna said:
Hi did you get though with changing the port, my port needs changing but that part is no longer available, there is another site that is selling just the charge port. I have no idea how to change the port. I'm planning on asking someone with a soldering iron for help, is it difficult. Also with shipping to Trinidad the part is 22 us, there's a nexus 5x port on eBay for about 5 us , is there any chance that it will work.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I saw "just" the charging port when I was searching... looks pretty difficult to just change the port..
I got the little board that includes the charging port for about $27 US...
I just changed it and it was not very difficult.
You have to unsolder the old speaker wires and swap it to the new board... pretty easy...
Just don't let your soldering iron get very hot... test with a piece of very thin soldering wire to where it just melts.
Unplug your soldering iron to regulate heat..
You don't need to add any solder to reinstall.. there is some little dabs of solder on the board that should be enough.
Was for me.
Here's a video link...
https://youtu.be/NH_17vH4BfA
HI! Is there a way for me to get a sub pcba with charging port board? The website bluphoneparts has not been working for a long time. And I have searched on amazon and ebay with no luck.