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hrm this isnt good - it would appear bluetooth stops working when wifi is enabled - was listening to an mp3 on bt stereo headphones and enabled wifi and it killed the conn - not only that it seems i cant use any form of bt device if wifi is enabled (not even connected) on the device - wtf?
is anyone else experiencing this?
No, I use Jawbone BT headset with all sounds out BT using BTaudio.exe then start WiFi on home LAN and watch streaming video from Slingbox.
this was the case with the titan...
eric b
do i have a faulty unit?
i don't think so. in the titan, the bluetooth and wifi antennae were the same actual unit.
eric b
you sure? remE says both work at the same time just fine for him :s
to me it seems as thought ewifi signal is overpowering the bluetooth or smt - does the bluetooth freq lie in the wifi freq range or smt? is there any way they could overlap?
both work if i have only one on at a time - can anyone confirm either way if both work at the same time for them and what equipment youre using?
I'm doing it as a type this. I'm watching 30fps video streaming at 300k over WiFi and listening to it thru a Jawbone BT headset. For sure this works fine.
I have a Hermes and it would not do this well at all, it would allow BT and 3G video streaming but not WiFi. Kaiser can handle it.
maybe you could try a differet BT headset, maybe yours suffers from inteference ( i don't know the frequencies of BT and WiFi but WiFI could be killing the connection because your headset jamms)
BT and WiFi are both spread specktrum radios operating at 2.4ghz. They are designed to co-exist and do so on Kaiser. Maybe there is a difference with Stereo vs Mono headsets, they do use different BT profiles. If I get a chance I'll try a stereo set and report back.
thanks guys - i need to make sure my unit is duff before i ssend it back for a replacement ;(
looks like my unit is gonna go back - i called htc and they said they havent heard of this issue before and are 'escalating it' - it seems that superetrader wont give me an RMA for my unit until htc have given me a reference number - is this normal procedure? seems a bit odd to me
i tested my unit some more at work today with a whole host of different bluetooth and wifi gadgets and the problem is consistently reproducable
gutted
Hi all,
I've just bought my first HTC unit ever (Kaiser), which is also my first Windows Mobile Phone (I used PocketPCs since 2001 but with no integrated phone so far), and it seems to have a lot of issues in the areas of "regular phone" functionality.
However, the one that is really freaking me out so far is the whole "Bluetooth audio" area. I'm just wondering whether I would ever be able to get what I want or am I asking too much.
I have 3 Bluetooth audio devices, all of them are dual Headset/Headphone ones: in-car fixed Motorola T605, Jabra BT8010 and Plantronics 590. Now, naturally, I want to use the T605 in the car, Jabra for phone calls only throughout the day and for music occasionally, and Plantronics when I'm in the gym, for both music and occasional incoming phone calls.
I had all this working flawlessly with my SonyEricsson K800i phone: each device connected to the phone automatically when powered up and automatically took over both Headset and Headphone functions. The only minor problem was reconnecting Jabra when stepping out of the car, which required only a short tap on the button.
Now, with Kaiser, things are much more complicated. When a device (any of them) is connected to the phone, both as Headset and Headphones, it works mostly OK, although sometimes there is a problem of sound not coming through the device when an incoming call was answered while playing music. The music is suspended OK, but the sound comes from the phone speaker instead of the respective Bluetooth device. This happens from time to time, not always.
But the biggest problem is the initial connection of a device after another one has already been connected. When I enter my car and fire up the engine, I want the T605 to automatically connect to the phone even if Jabra has already been connected. This I was unable to achieve. Instead, I have to manually disconnect Jabra (by powering it off or temporarily powering off Bluetooth on the phone) and then manually connect the phone with the T605, for both Headset and Wireless Music (two actions required!). Now, for me, this is unacceptable.
Moreover, when I arrive to a destination and want to step out of the car, I have to manually reconnect my Jabra to the Kaiser, again, through the phone’s Bluetooth settings as described above. A short tap on Jabra’s button no longer works for this purpose, in opposite to SE K800i.
Making the long story short, this is completely unacceptable behavior for me, and I haven’t found so far a way to make it the way I need it.
Any advices?
mpogr said:
Hi all,
I've just bought my first HTC unit ever (Kaiser), which is also my first Windows Mobile Phone (I used PocketPCs since 2001 but with no integrated phone so far), and it seems to have a lot of issues in the areas of "regular phone" functionality.
However, the one that is really freaking me out so far is the whole "Bluetooth audio" area. I'm just wondering whether I would ever be able to get what I want or am I asking too much.
I have 3 Bluetooth audio devices, all of them are dual Headset/Headphone ones: in-car fixed Motorola T605, Jabra BT8010 and Plantronics 590. Now, naturally, I want to use the T605 in the car, Jabra for phone calls only throughout the day and for music occasionally, and Plantronics when I'm in the gym, for both music and occasional incoming phone calls.
I had all this working flawlessly with my SonyEricsson K800i phone: each device connected to the phone automatically when powered up and automatically took over both Headset and Headphone functions. The only minor problem was reconnecting Jabra when stepping out of the car, which required only a short tap on the button.
Now, with Kaiser, things are much more complicated. When a device (any of them) is connected to the phone, both as Headset and Headphones, it works mostly OK, although sometimes there is a problem of sound not coming through the device when an incoming call was answered while playing music. The music is suspended OK, but the sound comes from the phone speaker instead of the respective Bluetooth device. This happens from time to time, not always.
But the biggest problem is the initial connection of a device after another one has already been connected. When I enter my car and fire up the engine, I want the T605 to automatically connect to the phone even if Jabra has already been connected. This I was unable to achieve. Instead, I have to manually disconnect Jabra (by powering it off or temporarily powering off Bluetooth on the phone) and then manually connect the phone with the T605, for both Headset and Wireless Music (two actions required!). Now, for me, this is unacceptable.
Moreover, when I arrive to a destination and want to step out of the car, I have to manually reconnect my Jabra to the Kaiser, again, through the phone’s Bluetooth settings as described above. A short tap on Jabra’s button no longer works for this purpose, in opposite to SE K800i.
Making the long story short, this is completely unacceptable behavior for me, and I haven’t found so far a way to make it the way I need it.
Any advices?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried the Bluetooth fix on HTC's website?
Asking is easy, searching is hard work for some people it seems. No offence..
I'm using Schap's ROM which is supposed to have this fix built-in.
mpogr said:
I'm using Schap's ROM which is supposed to have this fix built-in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahh. didn't see that in your first post..
I think you are suffering the same prob as many. Every time a BT device comes out, it never seems to work with what we had before. BT protocols are NOT fixed (The IEEE STILL have not fully implemented a specific proto!), they change faster than we change our devices.
As I said before (without meaning any offence) search the whole forum, many threads have been out on this subject and some advice/fixes or equipment references are out there.
Well, I did search these forums and haven't seen someone referring to the same kind of problems I'm having.
Now, regarding your comment about variety of BT devices... I don't buy that. My SE K800i is 1 year old and works perfectly with this combination of devices.
I have pretty extensive experience with Broadcom/Widcomm BT stack on PC and older models of PocketPC (the one I have is IPAQ 5555) and I suspect these foes are direct derivatives from the fact Kaiser uses MS BT stack, which is much inferior. However, it seems nobody was able to make Broadcom/Widcomm stack work on Kaiser so far...
mpogr said:
Well, I did search these forums and haven't seen someone referring to the same kind of problems I'm having.
Now, regarding your comment about variety of BT devices... I don't buy that. My SE K800i is 1 year old and works perfectly with this combination of devices.
I have pretty extensive experience with Broadcom/Widcomm BT stack on PC and older models of PocketPC (the one I have is IPAQ 5555) and I suspect these foes are direct derivatives from the fact Kaiser uses MS BT stack, which is much inferior. However, it seems nobody was able to make Broadcom/Widcomm stack work on Kaiser so far...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I'm sorry if you don't. I only tried to help. Seem's you've asked a question and have already formed an opinion to it!!!
I have personal experience of Sony's proprietory connection limitations.
My BT works fine on all my devices....will leave you to others.
Looks like I found a partial solution which makes my life almost perfect...
It seems the real problem is taking over Kaiser from a previously connected device. So, if I switch my Jabra off several seconds before I fire up my car's engine, my T605 is able to connect to it. Same goes the other way around, I can turn off the car engine and then fire up the Jabra several seconds later. In this case all is good.
Looks like the MS BT stack is still ill-implemented though, as, for example, when in active Wireless Music BT connection, the device is unable to discover any other Bluetooth devices or to connect to other device's BT serial interface, which makes using external GPS devices difficult.
This could be a problem for me since my car (Citroen C5) has special anti-radiation coating on its windshield which quite effectively screens the satellite signals. Therefore I came up with a solution of having a BT GPS device permanently located in the car (actually, in the driver's seat back pocket) hardwired to the mains as well as to an external GPS antenna. This setup is effectively beating both reception and start-up time problems.
With Kaiser’s limitation on simultaneous BT connections I’m unable to use this setup anymore. Yes, I could bypass using an additional GPS device by connecting the external antenna to Kaiser’s internal GPS, but this looks like a cumbersome solution as I couldn’t find a Kaiser-compatible mounting with a socket for hardwiring an external GPS antenna.
Luckily for me, I still have my old IPAQ loaded with GPS software which I prefer to use for navigation anyway thanks to its significantly bigger screen
mpogr said:
Looks like I found a partial solution which makes my life almost perfect...
It seems the real problem is taking over Kaiser from a previously connected device. So, if I switch my Jabra off several seconds before I fire up my car's engine, my T605 is able to connect to it. Same goes the other way around, I can turn off the car engine and then fire up the Jabra several seconds later. In this case all is good.
Looks like the MS BT stack is still ill-implemented though, as, for example, when in active Wireless Music BT connection, the device is unable to discover any other Bluetooth devices or to connect to other device's BT serial interface, which makes using external GPS devices difficult.
This could be a problem for me since my car (Citroen C5) has special anti-radiation coating on its windshield which quite effectively screens the satellite signals. Therefore I came up with a solution of having a BT GPS device permanently located in the car (actually, in the driver's seat back pocket) hardwired to the mains as well as to an external GPS antenna. This setup is effectively beating both reception and start-up time problems.
With Kaiser’s limitation on simultaneous BT connections I’m unable to use this setup anymore. Yes, I could bypass using an additional GPS device by connecting the external antenna to Kaiser’s internal GPS, but this looks like a cumbersome solution as I couldn’t find a Kaiser-compatible mounting with a socket for hardwiring an external GPS antenna.
Luckily for me, I still have my old IPAQ loaded with GPS software which I prefer to use for navigation anyway thanks to its significantly bigger screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to here you have a resolution (albeit a partial one).
Just one thing, why would you want to connect to an external BT GPS at the same time as your car kit? Can't you get a good enough signal on the internal GPS or is there another reason?
Farsquidge said:
...Can't you get a good enough signal on the internal GPS...?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that's what I wrote in my post above. This antiradiation coating is a real satellite signal killer...
But, IMO, Kaiser's screen is too small for in-car navigation anyway, so having a dedicated unit is always a plus
mpogr said:
Yes, that's what I wrote in my post above. This antiradiation coating is a real satellite signal killer...
But, IMO, Kaiser's screen is too small for in-car navigation anyway, so having a dedicated unit is always a plus
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, blind AND stupid!
Yes I agree the screen is too small for general use. I have a dedicated GPS in the car and only use the TyTnII as a temporary routefinder whenever needed.
I need some serious help please.
Situation: My car has bluetooth for phone but not music. So i bought an A2DP FM transmitter. I am trying to use both in the car. one for phone, other for music. problem is, when both bluetooth devices are connected, the music SKIPS horribly.
I've tried a bunch of different roms and radios and tried the a2dpfix and everything I could find.
Basically, when i disable the car bluetooth, the skipping stops.... so it's the radioload or the workload on the tilt that makes the music skip.
So......
1) what can i do to increase bluetooth performance or general system performance?
2) what is the best rom or radio for bluetooth performance?
3) what is the best setting for bluetooth performance in registry? bitpool? framerate? jointstereo?
4) what is the music player using the least amount of resources?
THANK YOU. Please help with knowledge, not speculation.
also, any thoughts on prioritizing bluetooth devices or signals to give higher priority to a2dp?
overclocking?
j_bowl said:
radioload
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely. Several people have reported that issue. A2DP needs lots of bandwidth and realtime availability, if a second connection needs to be maintained at the same time it's very likely to cause interruptions.
j_bowl said:
I need some serious help please.
...snip...So......
1) what can i do to increase bluetooth performance or general system performance?
2) what is the best rom or radio for bluetooth performance?
3) what is the best setting for bluetooth performance in registry? bitpool? framerate? jointstereo?
4) what is the music player using the least amount of resources?
THANK YOU. Please help with knowledge, not speculation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I did to fix this problem was to purchase the new Motorola FM transmitter - it does BOTH on one device - it transmits music to the radioo and gives you hands free for phone - really works well - much better than the Parrott that was in the car to begin with.
Bill
I saw the Motorola FM Transmitter but decided to go with my Satechi model because 1) it starts up automatically with ignition and 2) I can hide it away in the glovebox instead of having it attached to my visor.
so the best set up was to use both at the sametime but i'm not sure if i can anymore.
anyone know how to dedicate more resources to radioload or set priority in task manager?
THANKS
No.
A possibility, which depends on your Satecho thing, is if possible not to connect it to the Kaiser (leave it on, paired, but don't expressly connect to it when getting in the car).
That way there's no active BT connection between teh 2 so you shouldn't get skips. When you receive/place a phone call, the Kaiser will search for a present known handsfree and connect to it automatically anyway.
how do i pair it and not connect? when i get in the car, the car handsfree connects automatically.
j_bowl said:
I need some serious help please.
3) what is the best setting for bluetooth performance in registry? bitpool? framerate? jointstereo?
THANK YOU. Please help with knowledge, not speculation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you happen to do any registry tweaks to maximize the performance of the A2DP BT Stereo performance in the past by increasing the Bitpool and MaxSupportedBitPool DWORD. I found on my Vogue that I lost simultaneous BT connection when I altered those settings from default. I now leave the registry A2DP settings at default and have not had problems with simultaneous BT connections (hands free, BT stereo and BT GPS puck).
A number of people have mentioned having issues with A2DP streaming on the Nexus.
I just found out something interesting... I've been getting annoying skips in music when playing audio to my car stereo, so after experimenting I've found:-
Open bluetooth settings, select headunit, enter pin, allow phonebook access and for the duration of that connection I get perfect audio.
Turn off either the headunit or phone, or both and allow them to connect again, then audio skips...
Open bluetooth settings, select headunit, unpair, select headunit, enter pin, allow phonebook access and for the duration of that connection, once again I get perfect audio.
The only thing I can think of is that the good connection is initiated by the N1 and the bad one by the headunit when it connects to the N1 at startup. Maybe capability negotiation problem? Maybe N1 selects a lower bitrate when it connects than the headunit does when it connects, any ideas? Is it possible to tweak the N1 to restrict the connection parameters?
- Anthony
I use a HT820 by Motorola and do not have any issues with skipping.
Started stock, then CM, now froyo. no issues on any of these roms.
That's great, but whilst bluetooth is a standard, some manufacturers get things wrong, and motorola may well have handled this better, this handsfree kit worked with:-
Hermes,
TYTN II
Touch Pro,
Sony Xperia,
Diamond2.
The kit within my headunit is built by parrot, so no small fish in the bluetooth pond.... It has a little menu with a list of models of phone with "funny" (non-standard) bluetooth implementations so that it can implement workarounds.
To top it off, others, with different handsfree kits have similar issues.
So, back to what I was saying...
I've just confirmed that it doesn't matter which end initiates the connection, if the phone was paired previously it skips, if you unpair and re-pair (during pairing the phone is connected as part of that process) for the duration of that connection the sound is flawless.
It must be using different connection parameters on that first connection, but I can't even see _any_ information about the connections, like bitrate/bitpool / sample rate etc.
Is there any way I can get the connection information for current bluetooth connections?
Does anyone know the way around the AOSP code enough to see if there could be any difference in the pairing connection to the normal connections?
I bet it really is that it uses "safe" values during the initial connection.
- Anthony
http://code.google.com/p/android/is...t&colspec=ID Type Status Owner Summary Sta rs
http://forum.xda-developers.com/archive/index.php/t-622231.html
All i found on it, hope it helped. Otherwise, good luck finding out a solution.
Devastatin said:
I use a HT820 by Motorola and do not have any issues with skipping.
Started stock, then CM, now froyo. no issues on any of these roms.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same headphones and only notice skipping when I'm walking fast, with my phone in my pocket...or I turn my head away from the phone. But that's all my doing, not the phone.
I found a car stereo at an affordable price these days. When you are going for a budget build, you definitely expect to make some compromises. Maybe this not be the best car stereo on the market, but it is the best value. The model we are going to talk about is Pumpkin Android 9.0 universal applicable infotainment system car stereo.
Scope of delivery
- car stereo
- power cable with Canbus
- camera adapter box
- GPS Antenna
- Wifi Antenna
- External Microphone
- Radio Adaptor
- USB Cable
- USB Extended Cable
- User Manual
► Material/quality/appearance/processing
The processing of the*Pumpkin*radio is very high quality, you notice this immediately when you unpack it.The radio has a matte black finish. The knobs and buttons are very stable, feel comfortable and have a good press point.
► Technical data
The radio has a Qcta-core with4GB DDR3 RAM and the internal memory is 32 GB.With this data, the Android 9.0 system running fluidly and without problems. You can install and play current games on the radio.
The radio supports GPS (preloaded with the Google maps APP) and capacitive touch screen, Bluetooth, steering wheel remote control, Wi-Fi, 3 G, FM, AM, RDS, OBD2
► GPS
Through the supplied GPS antenna,the navigation runs very well.The site search takes just a few seconds after switching on and is extremely accurate. *I have experienced no GPS dropouts. Together with the Google Maps app, the navigation is super easy to adjust because it works like the route planner on the PC or on the phone.
The radio has a TF card reader. This reads standard micro SD card which is used for the extension of the store. (E.g. maps for different countries)
► FM Radio
The radio works fine, it is easy to use. It is convenient to switch channels, and can enjoy different service.
In particular, I find that you can control the volume via the buttons. So you can look the radio even without use. This is definitely a plus point of this radio model.
► Sound quality
The radio impresses me not only with its easy operation, but also by a super sound.The radio has 4 audio outputs with each "real" 50 watt.The heights are very clear and the basses have a rich sound.
► Bluetooth 4.0
The Bluetooth connection is initialized in a few seconds the first time. Each additional time you have to do nothing more.The phone will connect automatically when it is in range of the car. This is very handy, it has a free external mic, so you can clearly listen the bluetooth calls. What’s more, it can read the phonebook, you can call when you can drive and still focus on your road.
► Wifi, Wlan, 3G
The radio convinces with extremely many high-end features. So, as a Wi-Fi access inside the car radio can build up. Friends and family can connect to it and thus surf the Internet over 3G.
► Suitable Cars
The radio has a 2 DIN standard form and thus fits in much cars.
►Smartphone mirror
For Android phone, you can mirror and control on the unit via USB cable connection. As the iphone, you can just mirror on the unit via wifi connection.
► Conclusion
Overall, the price/performance ratio of this radio is not to beat. He keeps everything he promises and can be controlled touch screen through the incredibly easy. He has extremely many features that were described above.
First and only post by "mandyoritz." Obvious spam. Clearly Pumpkin condones and uses deceit and spam, so should NOT be considered if you're looking for a head unit. Don't reward dishonest behavior. Consider anyone EXCEPT Pumpkin.
Oh, and they posted in the wrong place for an Android based head unit, couldn't even figure that out.