I just bought a yamaha 471 and polk monitor60 series ii and 16 gauge wire. What exactly is the process of hooking up devices via hdmi out or optical or rca connections... Like what's the difference in audio quality?
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slufa111 said:
I just bought a yamaha 471 and polk monitor60 series ii and 16 gauge wire. What exactly is the process of hooking up devices via hdmi out or optical or rca connections... Like what's the difference in audio quality?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What are you using for a source?
Dish DVR? Cable box?
Personally I hook up via hdmi in my setup and use it for video only. Audio will pass through to your TV (if I ever need it) but I turn the volume down on the TV since I don't use the speakers for audio. I then use optical audio from source to receiver then to speakers with speaker wire. I find it is a lot better than the audio passed through HDMI. May not be. But I have better luck with surround and bass decoding through optical.
Hint (No, mods this is NOT advertising, just advice to save money) Use monoprice.com for ALL of your different cable needs. It will save you a TON of money versus getting raped over the price of cables found at retail outlets. And the quality is there. You can get a 6' HDMI cable for under $10. I have used them for years and never had a defective product.
I haven't looked at all of your detailed specs, glancing at your equipment you should be able to use HDMI for video and use the optical for great audio decoding.
---------- Post added at 04:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:21 PM ----------
And a side note: Go ahead and buy Banana plugs for the receiver end of your speaker wires. It will make a world of difference in hooking up your speakers. Especially if you have to unhook them and hook them back up. No more twisting wires and trying to get into the hole then turn a knob to tighten it down.
Looks like your receiver will take banana plugs. You can get 5 pairs of the plugs for around $8.
I use optical audio out, too. Though my living room setup was stupid simple with a (free) Bowers& Wilkins Panorama. I use optical out in my bedroom, too. If you hear crackling or audio skips, that's a bad optical cable. It happened to me. Cable swap fixed all.
Sent from the top of my muffin.
Ok so I have a my TV, Cable box, PS3 and a blu-ray then I have my reciever ....sorry for the lack of information, I was at work cleaning a damn howitizer. Ok so, that seems like a bunch of HDMI cords... maybe you can explain a bit further since you know what I got.
Your tv should have optical audio out, which is a nice way to get all audio through your surround sound. Hdmi cables from all inputs into tv, optical audio out from tv into surround receiver.
Sent from the top of my muffin.
slufa111 said:
Ok so I have a my TV, Cable box, PS3 and a blu-ray then I have my reciever ....sorry for the lack of information, I was at work cleaning a damn howitizer. Ok so, that seems like a bunch of HDMI cords... maybe you can explain a bit further since you know what I got.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL. My howitzer is dirty too. If I get some nice weather this week I may get out in the backyard and clean it.
No offense to jRi0T68, but don't go optical to receiver from TV and don't do HDMI from your components to TV. Your receiver is capable of switching HDMI and it is unnecessary. And it degrades the signal. It is not necessary and you may end up with audio/video timing problems. In his scenario audio is going to go from your source via HDMI through......screw it. Too much typing to explain that. DON'T do what he said LOL.
You didn't say what cable box. I'm assuming it has HDMI and Optical audio. Also, you didn't say how many or what configuration you have for your Polk Speakers. I am assuming front R &L, center, and rear surround + Sub.. So you will be 5.1.
Here's what I would do in your setup with those assumptions and your equipment.
1st, ditch the Blu-Ray Disk player if it isn't a high-end unit. It is redundant. Use your PS3 for BD playback.
Hook your HDMI from cable box to receiver on HDMI4 and optical from cable box to optical in on AV4. Then hook your PS3 HDMI to HDMI1 and optical from PS3 to AV1. I chose those two inputs because you only have those two optical inputs and you should be able to work it this way without having to reassign any inputs in the receiver. You can swap 1 for 4 in the way of inputs. I put cable on 4 because AV4 is labeled (TV) on your receiver. Just easier to track things.
Also, label both ends of your cables. Itis easier when it turns into a pile of spaghetti. LOL
If you are hell bent on hooking up the Blu-Ray Disk player, then hook HDMI to HDMI 2 or 3. Then use coaxial cable to hook audio to respective A/V input. I know it is called "coaxial" but it is actually a regular RCA cable with shielding. If it is a short run a regular RCA cable should suffice. "Coaxial" is still a digital signal and can carry a 5.1 signal for decoding. It is better than the HDMI audio IMHO. And it is definitely better than L and R analog inputs. But it is still lesser then optical. You don't get RF interferance with optical.
Then hook up an HDMI cable from HDMI OUT on the receiver to your TV HDMI input. You should only have one HDMI cable hooked to your TV and that will carry signal to your TV no matter which source you are using.
I quickly looked at your receiver manual. The above should work without having to reassign inputs which can be a pain.
Without Bluray player you will need:
3 HDMI cables. (1 from cable to rec. 1 from PS 3 to rec., and 1 from rec to TV._
2 optical cables. (1 from cable to rec. and 1 from PS3 to rec.)
If you add the Blu Ray player in the mix, add:
1 HDMI from BD to rec. and one "coaxial" for audio.
Other things you need:
If you have a powered sub, you will need another coaxial cable. That is the only way you can hook a sub to the receiver. And it must be a powered sub. Get a subwoofer coaxial cable if you have a long run to you sub. It is less prone to interference.
Don't forget the banana plugs if you are ordering stuff. Also, leave yourself some extra room when getting your cables.
I hope I didn't forget anything.
If I helped you, find some other posts from me in another forum and thank me. LOL
If my assumptions are wrong, let me know and I will tell you what to do different.
FYI, here is a link to my setup. Though the equipment is in another room.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1703795&highlight=home+theater
Admittedly, I did suggest the lazy route. I'm not using anything "normal"at home and sometimes forget the right way with a standard system. B&W Pano spoils me on ease of setup.
Do what 85gallon said.
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Related
Has anyone else made a tv out cable? I made one and had inference from the exposed wires electrical field with each other but used layers of different types of tape to get rid of distortion when playing audio and video. Has anyone else tried some other less tacky way?
(moderators sorry if wrong topic)
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
You can buy one that will work for about $10.
You just have to switch the right audio and video. No hacking required.
I have an Electrohome cable. Very thick and good quality.
Agree with above post. I got 2 off amazon for less than a dollar apeice. Search Ipod touch video cables. Same thing we need.
I know but wanted to make my own I must be alone on that cause couldn't find how to make one so I looked at picture of one from ebay and figured out how no help from GOOGLE™
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Can anyone post any links for these cables ?
Thanks,
txdesi said:
Can anyone post any links for these cables ?
Thanks,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was looking for one too and was wondering if one of these would work.
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-5mm-Jack-3-x-...er_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item1c19381544
Fyi, here's the info on the pinout of the cable (quoted below):
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=10484688&postcount=131
sshvetsov said:
Sorry, I completely missed the part where you said i9000 has pins 3 and 4 swapped compared to Captivate. It's strange, but quite possible that pinout on i9000 and Captivate is different.
From the accounts I've read on this forum and according to pinouts.ru / pinoutsguide.com i9000 has the following pinout:
|----|-----|-----|-----\
|----|-----|-----|-----/
_4____3____2___1
1 - white (left audio channel)
2 - red (right audio channel)
3 - yellow (video)
4 - shield (ground)
According to your diagram Captivate has the following pinout:
1 - white (left audio channel)
2 - red (right audio channel)
3 - shield (ground)
4 - yellow (video)
This seems to be consistent with my experience using Captivate and TV-out cable from WD TV Live. I tested it just now and it has the following pinout:
1 - yellow (video)
2 - white (left audio channel)
3 - red (right audio channel)
4 - shield (ground)
Using this cable with Captivate I get scrambled image no mater which plug (red/white/yellow) I use, which makes sense if Captivate sends video signal to pin 4, the shield of all three plugs instead of the center conductor of just one. The conclusion I can make from this is that Nokia's CA-75U will not work for my Captivate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The issue I've ran into so far is the cable I bought, just a generic cable, has pins 3 and 4 swapped, and if you get a cable like that there's no way to fix it.
So it would work on the i9000 according to the quote above, but it doesn't work in the captivate.
The video is sent out over ground in this case, and therefore useless.
How has everyone insuring they get a cable that works with the captivate?
heres the thing i really dont get. a 4 segment 1/8 inch plug, is pretty much only used for these type of cables. Normal headphone jacks only have 3 segments.
where did the OP get one to hack? or did he mod a 3 segment headphone jack and is only getting one channel audio? and the other audio... shorting to video in the jack?
and ya kinda not worth hacking together considering ebay...
ronkoni said:
I was looking for one too and was wondering if one of these would work.
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-5mm-Jack-3-x-...er_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item1c19381544
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wanting to know myself.
Trusselo said:
heres the thing i really dont get. a 4 segment 1/8 inch plug, is pretty much only used for these type of cables. Normal headphone jacks only have 3 segments.
where did the OP get one to hack? or did he mod a 3 segment headphone jack and is only getting one channel audio? and the other audio... shorting to video in the jack?
and ya kinda not worth hacking together considering ebay...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A stereo headset with a mic uses a 4 segment plug. I ordered a generic camcorder output cable from amazon for $3.09 that works on my captivate. just have to swap the the right audio with the video
Trusselo said:
heres the thing i really dont get. a 4 segment 1/8 inch plug, is pretty much only used for these type of cables. Normal headphone jacks only have 3 segments.
where did the OP get one to hack?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't looked hard to find one but was curious if they are available to buy also.
The only reason I can see for making one is that you can build a higher quality cable then you can buy.
http://electronics.shop.ebay.com/A-...era_Cables_Cords&_fln=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m282
Any of these will work by swapping the a/v around. it's the camcorder cables you are after.
I bought the electrohome one because the colours on the barrels for the rcas are changeable. When I got the correct barrels, I just swapped the colours to match.
I can't find them on ebay. Check your local electronics stores. It was $10.00, if you care about the colours matching.
This may also be an alternative to those wanting to use High Quality cables:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NXG-Camcorder-A...ultDomain_0&hash=item3cb62bc873#ht_500wt_1156
nickm50 said:
it's the camcorder cables you are after
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah! That's the key!
Thanks
can anyone explain why the video signal comes through partially scrambled?
1: It it scrambled when the pinout order is wrong?
2: or is the scramble from some other problem?
3: when the pin order is wrong is there just no signal/no scramble?
Reason I am wondering is I have a cable I am trying, and have tried on a couple of older TV's and only got a scrambled video. Should I try with newer TV's or is the cable just flat out wrong for the captivate... It's a Samsung branded cable. :-(
pietro_spina said:
can anyone explain why the video signal comes through partially scrambled?
1: It it scrambled when the pinout order is wrong?
2: or is the scramble from some other problem?
3: when the pin order is wrong is there just no signal/no scramble?
Reason I am wondering is I have a cable I am trying, and have tried on a couple of older TV's and only got a scrambled video. Should I try with newer TV's or is the cable just flat out wrong for the captivate... It's a Samsung branded cable. :-(
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Partially scrambled is a bad cable. If the pinout is wrong you would not get a video signal at all.
Try just plugging in the barrel that works for video and wiggling the 3.5mm connector in the captivate and see if it clears up.
BUT your best bet is getting another cable.
nickm50 said:
Partially scrambled is a bad cable. If the pinout is wrong you would not get a video signal at all.
Try just plugging in the barrel that works for video and wiggling the 3.5mm connector in the captivate and see if it clears up.
BUT your best bet is getting another cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Shoot.
I'm pissed because I paid for the Samsung cable expecting it to be a less risky proposition than ebay-roulette... (I should have just bought 3 from ebay for the same price...)
thanks for the info..
Actually, you can sometimes get a "scrambled" image if the pin order is wrong. Not sure what others see when their image is scrambled, but on one cable I have you will get something on the screen, basically a jagged line down the middle of the screen, you can tell its an image coming from the phone because it will change color if you change what is on the phone screen. I should add that I could only see the "scrambled" image on an old crt, on my lcd it just would say no signal.
If you want to check if pins 3 and 4 are swapped you need to switch the outside of the video lead to the inside and inside to outside. I did this and saw a "perfect"/ not scrambled image. Now I know for sure that cable won't work properly, and the TV out function works just fine.
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Because out the pinout posted above I was wary of buying an i9000 cable. Pretty weird/stupid for samsung to change the pinout between captivate and i9000.
bnevets27 said:
Actually, you can sometimes get a "scrambled" image if the pin order is wrong. Not sure what others see when their image is scrambled, but on one cable I have you will get something on the screen, basically a jagged line down the middle of the screen, you can tell its an image coming from the phone because it will change color if you change what is on the phone screen. I should add that I could only see the "scrambled" image on an old crt, on my lcd it just would say no signal.
If you want to check if pins 3 and 4 are swapped you need to switch the outside of the video lead to the inside and inside to outside. I did this and saw a "perfect"/ not scrambled image. Now I know for sure that cable won't work properly, and the TV out function works just fine.
Because out the pinout posted above I was wary of buying an i9000 cable. Pretty weird/stupid for samsung to change the pinout between captivate and i9000.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If thats the cable you used,
Thats a component cable you have there.....The pin outs on it could be different again!
No, I just picked up the closest cable for the pic.
Trusselo said:
heres the thing i really dont get. a 4 segment 1/8 inch plug, is pretty much only used for these type of cables. Normal headphone jacks only have 3 segments.
where did the OP get one to hack? or did he mod a 3 segment headphone jack and is only getting one channel audio? and the other audio... shorting to video in the jack?
and ya kinda not worth hacking together considering ebay...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have only right side audio because only have three segments but shore would have like to known there is a 4 segment one.. But I haven't actualy ever seen one of those cable but I wanted to make my own also
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Nexus 7 Teardown @ ifixit
Here she is, the motherboard:
NVIDIA T30L Tegra 3 processor
Hynix HTC2G83CFR DDR3 RAM
Max 77612A inverting switching regulator
AzureWave AW-NH665 wireless module
Broadcom BCM4751 integrated monolithic GPS receiver
NXP 65N04
Invensense MPU-6050 gyro and accelerometer
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Wow. For some reason I thought there would be more stuff....Or that some things would be bigger. :/
EDIT: Nevermind. It just doesn't look like much when it's all out like that.
What does this mean exactly?
Although the official Nexus page says there's a speaker in the back, we clearly see a pair of drivers.
Drivers? No Speaker?
Atmazzz said:
What does this mean exactly?
Although the official Nexus page says there's a speaker in the back, we clearly see a pair of drivers.
Drivers? No Speaker?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure. They're referring to the two black rectangular mesh/screen objects towards the bottom. I'm guessing they mean a type of electrostatic transducer?
Well that's it then, no more speculation regarding MHL.
No sight of any MHL chip/transmitter on the motherboard, and the demo unit on stage at Google I/O was indeed a custom one that either uses micro USB to VGA adapter or Nexus Q to mirror its screen.
Edit: Wait, but there is a micro USB to HDMI cable, I'm confused
Doesn't it require hardware support for MHL to work.
Nice to know it includes DDR3 RAM, apparatly the same model found in the 'MacBook Pro with Retina Display'.
Also Page 1 - Step 2 states
Initially, the Nexus 7 was criticized for its lack of HDMI output. However, the included micro USB-to-HDMI cable solves that problem.
Including this picture
Time to celebrate?
xthaox said:
Well that's it then, no more speculation regarding MHL.
No sight of any MHL chip/transmitter on the motherboard, and the demo unit on stage at Google I/O was indeed a custom one that either uses micro USB to VGA adapter or Nexus Q to mirror its screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In step 2 of the teardown there is a picture of the cable and they state "Initially, the Nexus 7 was criticized for its lack of HDMI output. However, the included micro USB-to-HDMI cable solves that problem."
Will the retail ones be the same as their white backed Google I/O attendee version though...
Thanks for sharing, I've been waiting for someone to break the Nexus 7 down.
Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using xda premium
Big_Den said:
Nice to know it includes DDR3 RAM, apparatly the same model found in the 'MacBook Pro with Retina Display'.
Also Page 1 - Step 2 states
Initially, the Nexus 7 was criticized for its lack of HDMI output. However, the included micro USB-to-HDMI cable solves that problem.
Including this picture
Time to celebrate?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Surely not.. but would be funny if true..
Big_Den said:
Time to celebrate?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks promising!
ebwibble said:
In step 2 of the teardown there is a picture of the cable and they state "Initially, the Nexus 7 was criticized for its lack of HDMI output. However, the included micro USB-to-HDMI cable solves that problem."
Will the retail ones be the same as their white backed Google I/O attendee version though...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's why I'm confused. How does it work without any MHL transmitter on board?
How come no other reviews mentioned the inclusion of this micro USB to HDMI cable, both the AnandTech and Engadget reviews say N7 do not support MHL. They surely must have been reviewing the same unit given out for I/O attendees. I hope ifixit test if the cable even work, was it a mistake that the cable is included in their box?
xthaox said:
That's why I'm confused. How does it work without any MHL transmitter on board?
How come no other reviews mentioned the inclusion of this micro USB to HDMI cable, both the AnandTech and Engadget reviews say N7 do not support MHL. They surely must have been reviewing the same unit given out for I/O attendees. I hope ifixit test if the cable even work, was it a mistake that the cable is included in their box?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah. Why is ifixit the only one who makes note of this. It doesn't make sense.
Yeah it does look promising. Even if it doesnt include a cable in the box, I would hope you will be able to purchase it separately. It still quite funny we dont have any concrete information :laugh:
That looks like the PC connection cable. Note the regular USB male connector, and what looks like micro-USB male connector on the other end, despite what the HDMI label says.
If this were an adapter, the HDMI connector would normally be female, to be used with regular HDMI male-male cable.
xthaox said:
That's why I'm confused. How does it work without any MHL transmitter on board?
How come no other reviews mentioned the inclusion of this micro USB to HDMI cable, both the AnandTech and Engadget reviews say N7 do not support MHL. They surely must have been reviewing the same unit given out for I/O attendees. I hope ifixit test if the cable even work, was it a mistake that the cable is included in their box?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Whilst I think it is a mistake by iFixit, I am wondering about the technical side of things, does Tegra 3 not have any MHL stuff in it?
e.mote said:
That looks like the PC connection cable. Note the regular USB male connector, and what looks like micro-USB male connector on the other end, despite what the HDMI label says.
If this were an adapter, the HDMI connector would normally be female, to be used with regular HDMI male-male cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To me it looks like a microusb male connection on one end (to be plugged into the Nexus) and a full size HDMI male connection on the other end (to be plugged into a TV or receiver).
e.mote said:
That looks like the PC connection cable. Note the regular USB male connector, and what looks like micro-USB male connector on the other end, despite what the HDMI label says.
If this were an adapter, the HDMI connector would normally be female, to be used with regular HDMI male-male cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought with the dent on its side, it looks more like a micro-USB male connector, and on the other end with HDMI label, it also looks like a HDMI male connector, considering its relative size to the micro-USB end.
>To me it looks like a microusb male connection on one end (to be plugged into the Nexus) and a full size HDMI male connection on the other end
You're probably right. Anyway, below is the cable that normally comes with the I/O package. There is no other cable in the unboxing.
http://www.technobuffalo.com/compan...low-price/attachment/google-galaxy-7-charger/
What's with the HDMI cable reference in there? Thought it didn't have MHL or anything
Plus the smaller connector with the wide RIM looks like one of the cables you'd plug into the Q
EDIT: I'm not really convinced that it is a HDMI male connector
Slap-Yourself :) said:
I'm not sure. They're referring to the two black rectangular mesh/screen objects towards the bottom. I'm guessing they mean a type of electrostatic transducer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is how someone else explained it to me.
NeoteriX said:
By stereo speakers, I basically mean there are two drivers (speakers, same thing), one for the right channel audio, and one for the left channel audio.
As a practical matter however, the stereo effect will be nil or negligible because 1) there is almost no stereo separation (distance between speakers), and 2) when held in landscape, both channels will be only coming from one side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i know there are many threads already out there, but couldnt find my answer...hopefully there are some audio gurus here that would cime in...
my truck got broken into and got my $900 Double Din Stereo stolen...i have no radio now and DO NOT wanna replace it with something EXPENSIVE...then i thought about my N7...i was thinking of just removing it every time i got off the truck n wat not...
my question to u guys is...how can i connect it to my sppeakers in the truck? do i gotta cut up some wires n tapem together n stuff lol (its probaly a stupid question n easy one, but im a newb when it comes to car audio lol)
Thx in advanced!
The N7 doesn't have enough internal amplifier to power a set of car speakers directly. It also has no radio tuner so you'd be stuck with playing back media already on the device or, if you have a 3G model, streaming Pandora or Slacker. You could get a mini-jack to RCA cable that could be plugged into the headphone jack and connected to an amplifier.
Miami_Son said:
The N7 doesn't have enough internal amplifier to power a set of car speakers directly. It also has no radio tuner so you'd be stuck with playing back media already on the device or, if you have a 3G model, streaming Pandora or Slacker. You could get a mini-jack to RCA cable that could be plugged into the headphone jack and connected to an amplifier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well, i can do w/o the radio tuner...i can just load my music library to it n what not...n just tether from my gnote if i wanna use pandora...
about the internal amp power,...u have a point..what do ther people use...as ive seen some threads but do not mention anything about that??
the mini jack option is for using a 4 channel amp for the speakers? is that correct?
I installed it in my Miata. I just hid the aux cable from the CD player. If you want to ditch the player, install a small motorcycle/boat amp. There all on amazon. Good luck!
https://picasaweb.google.com/104806...authkey=Gv1sRgCNDbsMeMmfDl1gE&feat=directlink
gpchess2k said:
I installed it in my Miata. I just hid the aux cable from the CD player. If you want to ditch the player, install a small motorcycle/boat amp. There all on amazon. Good luck!
https://picasaweb.google.com/104806...authkey=Gv1sRgCNDbsMeMmfDl1gE&feat=directlink
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol well I don't have an option as I don't have a CD player...they broke into my truck n stole it
You will need to use an equalizer with a line driver. The line driver amplifies the input and sends it out to the speakers or subwoofer.
Check this video out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgtNtceyL_c
I have a nook in my car with the audio control and some amps. works awesome!
The audio control eq is pricey, but I have also used a clarion eqs746 which has a 7 volt line driver (Audio Control three.1 output is 13v). Still more than enough increase in audio output and has great eq settings. I found bought my clarion eq for 50 bucks on craigslist.
Looking to upgrade it with my new nexus 7 though.
Good luck with your setup!
PS: audio control has it to where you can hook up your car speakers directly to the unit instead of having to run amps.
Buy a jvc x50bt
Sent from my HTC One S Special Edition using xda premium
xj220gt said:
You will need to use an equalizer with a line driver. The line driver amplifies the input and sends it out to the speakers or subwoofer.
Check this video out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgtNtceyL_c
I have a nook in my car with the audio control and some amps. works awesome!
The audio control eq is pricey, but I have also used a clarion eqs746 which has a 7 volt line driver (Audio Control three.1 output is 13v). Still more than enough increase in audio output and has great eq settings. I found bought my clarion eq for 50 bucks on craigslist.
Looking to upgrade it with my new nexus 7 though.
Good luck with your setup!
PS: audio control has it to where you can hook up your car speakers directly to the unit instead of having to run amps.
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I ebayed that model eq n its $50...might go that route...so with this eq, I can connect the door speakers?
maek_it_happen said:
Buy a jvc x50bt
Sent from my HTC One S Special Edition using xda premium
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Ebayed that aswell n its pretty cheap is this unit any good? Do u own one? Any personal experiences?
I really wanna have a screen though as that's what I had before some poor fvck stole my sh!t
Thanks guys for ALL this info!
xj220gt said:
You will need to use an equalizer with a line driver. The line driver amplifies the input and sends it out to the speakers or subwoofer.
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This is incorrect. A line driver will only provide a line level output that is designed to be sent to a separate amplifier. It will not drive speakers on its own.
Miami_Son said:
This is incorrect. A line driver will only provide a line level output that is designed to be sent to a separate amplifier. It will not drive speakers on its own.
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oh ok...i guess my only option would be a mini jack to rca connected to a 4 ch amp? is this right?
found this cheap boat amp with volume gain control....will this work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PYLE-PLMRMP...600?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1d604f08
if not what are your recommended amps n wat not.
Thanks for your advice guys!
You need to know the impedance of the line level output to know what amp you can use. It could be 2,4 or 8 ohms. And you only need a 4-channel amp if you have 4 separate speakers to drive. I can't recommend any specific hardware, unfortunately.
There are a couple of things you should be aware of...
1.) The Nexus 7 has pretty weak audio. Depending on the input sensitivity of the amp you choose, you may very well not have enough gain out of the nexus to drive it without an additional line amp.
I have not seen any measured specs on the output impedance and level of the N7's headphone jack so you will be rolling the dice here. And even if it is sufficient, do you really want to control your volume while driving using the N7's tiny little volume rocker (which only has 15 steps from mute to wide open)?
2.) I'm willing to bet it will be simpler, better, and cheaper to just pick up a budget in-dash unit with an auxiliary input. Something like http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...oogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-NA-_-NA or a hundred other choices that are out there.
^^^Gotta agree with this guy. Even with a hard mount it will be dangerous for you to be driving and trying to operate the Nexus. You can get a Sony MEX-BT3900 for $125 or less that has USB, AUX and BT capbilities and a removable face to prevent another break in. I had one in my last Ram and it worked great and I have one in my Harley. It has a 25WX4 amplifier built in.
I used one in my friends a4 ....the jvc x50 is a great deal that will also handle your calls , my setup I have a y cable plugged into the rear rcas aux input of a Sony deck hidden behind dash ,
For volume I just use volume control nice slider app that is overlayed ontop of every app , and since all audio is done through Bluetooth the sound quality is nice
Much cheaper then double dins
And more functional
Sent from my HTC One S Special Edition using xda premium
I have done several car stereo installs and I agree with above that your main problem MIGHT be low voltage from output from headset jack hence the very excellent suggestion of an in line amp. But it still needs to be hooked up to a conventional 4 ch amp to drive the car speakers and in the end the cost might just equall a cheap in dash stereo...besides, even if it did work I would consider it a temporary solution until you get money to replace in dash and upgrade security if possible
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1888964
This is mine. There's a description of what I used and it sounds amazing.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Thanx for everyone's input...I think I'm going with the JVC deck hide it n put the n7 on the harley
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Good choice. Now ditch the Ford and get a real truck. At least you got the motorcycle right.:laugh:
Miami_Son said:
Good choice. Now ditch the Ford and get a real truck. At least you got the motorcycle right.:laugh:
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lol i can prolly whoop u in a dodge, chevy....
I bought two of these http://www.ebay.com.hk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160922293980
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Mainly to use in the car so I can have one cable for both power and aux out.
They work OK but there is a low level interference noise when the phone is charging. If you reduce the charging current using stweaks (I am using perseus kernel) to 500mA the noise reduces quite a lot.
I have another cable on order from another supplier, I'll see if that is better shielded on the aux side to keep out noise.
Edit: just been for a drive and the sound quality is fantastic compared with bluetooth with the charger off. The noise is very noticable when a track has a low volume. Going to try some tweaks or maybe a ferrite core on the cable to see if I can improve it.
The other idea was to mhl instead and get a hdmi to av composite converter as my head unit has a 7" pop out screen so I can mirror the screen on my phone
You can make your life a lot easier by getting this for $1 from Monoprice. Its a matching white Type A male to micro-usb Type B cable, gold plated, with 28/24AWG data/power wires, and ferrite core filter. Just cut off micro-usb end along with ferrite code and splice it with your cable. I assume ferrite bead core isolates and filters power wires only considering this is 24AWG cable to handle 3.5A.
exactly what i've been looking for! do you have link to the other cable you purchased?
maybe something like this http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5...290739&sr=1-4&keywords=aux+cable+noise+filter for the ground noise?
Any updates on this? Can you test if cm10.1 based ROMs have USB audio out as well?
Ground loop isolator looks interesting, if thats what the cause is.
I tried a ferrite and it did not help, although I attached it to the micro end not the USB A end, might try moving it.
I got a HDMI to composite converter for the car which has the added bonus that I can mirror my screen on the 7" screen on the head unit listen to music, play movies, have the nav up there etc. Initial testing shows the audio quality is OK, I'll have to make some more comparisons to judge it properly
FWIW, I bought a black one and a white one. Theory was since they came from different sellers they may be different cables other than color. Well, theyre both the same. I set it up in my car and I have beautiful audio. The volume level is proper, no hisses or crackles, just great. Charging might have taken a minor hit, but it still charges with the screen on at full brightness so it's good enough! Screw bt audio. Until head units start coming with Apt-X, regular a2dp is complete garbage.
farfromovin said:
FWIW, I bought a black one and a white one. Theory was since they came from different sellers they may be different cables other than color. Well, theyre both the same. I set it up in my car and I have beautiful audio. The volume level is proper, no hisses or crackles, just great. Charging might have taken a minor hit, but it still charges with the screen on at full brightness so it's good enough! Screw bt audio. Until head units start coming with Apt-X, regular a2dp is complete garbage.
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Link?
raduque said:
Link?
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Same as the OP I believe. There is only one cable like this on ebay advertised for our phones, it only works with the Perseus kernel too...
I bought two of these cables(black) from ebay for cheap. One of them was totally defective as it wouldn't even fit the note II's port but the other one works just fine. Great audio(totally dependent on your setup) and fast charging with my 4.2 amp dual usb charger and it's got that nice tight fit that makes everyone happy. It doesnt work with the jelly bean or later kernels so you MUST install perseus kernel. It's pretty awesome having to plug in only one cable. No more crappy wireless audio for me :victory:
jjschind said:
I bought two of these cables(black) from ebay for cheap. One of them was totally defective as it wouldn't even fit the note II's port but the other one works just fine. Great audio(totally dependent on your setup) and fast charging with my 4.2 amp dual usb charger and it's got that nice tight fit that makes everyone happy. It doesnt work with the jelly bean or later kernels so you MUST install perseus kernel. It's pretty awesome having to plug in only one cable. No more crappy wireless audio for me :victory:
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Devil kernel as well as Trinity work too
Has anyone tried it on a CM/AOSP based ROM?
D3_ said:
Has anyone tried it on a CM/AOSP based ROM?
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Yeah, no worky...
How does this manage to work...? I wouldn't think there would be enough pins on the MicroUSB port...
KosanRio said:
How does this manage to work...? I wouldn't think there would be enough pins on the MicroUSB port...
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Theres 11 pins, 5 of them are regular USB and there is another row of 6 which are proprietry and do hdmi, audio out etc.
But the cable appears to only use the 5 normal ones...
KosanRio said:
But the cable appears to only use the 5 normal ones...
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The sgs2 which had a 5 pin port was also capable of it. The official Samsung car dock took advantage of it.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using xda premium
jjschind said:
I bought two of these cables(black) from ebay for cheap. One of them was totally defective as it wouldn't even fit the note II's port but the other one works just fine. Great audio(totally dependent on your setup) and fast charging with my 4.2 amp dual usb charger and it's got that nice tight fit that makes everyone happy. It doesnt work with the jelly bean or later kernels so you MUST install perseus kernel. It's pretty awesome having to plug in only one cable. No more crappy wireless audio for me :victory:
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Looking for some clarification, does that mean that a stock Note II, such as a Verizon model, that's gotten its regular OTA updates to 4.1.1 won't work with this cable? Or will it not work with any USB -> audio out cable/dock/etc.?
matguy said:
Looking for some clarification, does that mean that a stock Note II, such as a Verizon model, that's gotten its regular OTA updates to 4.1.1 won't work with this cable? Or will it not work with any USB -> audio out cable/dock/etc.?
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To clarify- Samsung firmware Jelly Bean and above lost car dock mode in favor or smart dock mode. The only way to make this cable work is with a custom kernel that enables car dock mode in TouchWiz.
Or, buy a iBOLT cable that enables smart dock mode on any JB firmware. I haven't measured mine yet to find out what the resistances are to enable it. There is some more info on this type of stuff in the S3 forums if you wanted to make one.
Ground loop isolator takes care of the engine noise / charging interference / noise. Got mine at Radio Shack for $9.
sorry to revive old thread but i got the cable from amazon through a seller named EZCart out of north carolina and got it all hooked up. Sound works great and i didn't even need a ground loop isolator or a ferrite core.Only issue is that I can't get the phone audio to play through the car speakers, i have searchhed numerous forums and the closest thing i found was that turning off the speaker should send the audio to the car but that still didn't work, has anyone been able to get phone call audio to play through the usb if so how? Thanks
Edit: I'm running Perseus Kernel on Jelly Beans 18
I am trying to use chromecast with my old projector which only got VGA input. I purchase a HDMI to VGA adapter which also has a audio output.
The audio works with my xbox360 and Patriot box office (the PBO needs to be set to HDMI LPCM Stereo). However, I could not get any audio using the same adapter from Chromecast. Is anything special about the audio output in Chromecast since the adapter is working with other devices?
VGA is only for display. It doesn't have the capability to transfer sound.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Cuzz1369 said:
VGA is only for display. It doesn't have the capability to transfer sound.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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I used this. (could not post link yet)
"VicTsing HDMI Input to VGA Adapter Converter For PC Laptop NoteBook HD DVD Black With audio out"
It does transfer sound from HDMI port of my xbox360 and Patriot box office.
minmao said:
I used this. (could not post link yet)
"VicTsing HDMI Input to VGA Adapter Converter For PC Laptop NoteBook HD DVD Black With audio out"
It does transfer sound from HDMI port of my xbox360 and Patriot box office.
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I'm going to start off with the possible stupid reasons so please don't get insulted by the question! LOL
Are you sure your in the right Audio In? Most of the time VGA in will have it's own Audio Input which in most cases is a Mini Phone (headphone) Jack. Hard to see sometimes unless your looking for it.
If thats not the issue, Check the Menu on the Projector to see if there is a setting for which Audio source to use when on VGA.
I'm guessing you have a bunch of connectors (I'm betting 10, 3 for Analog/Composite, 5 for Component, 1 VGA and one for VGA Audio.)
But sometimes both the Component and VGA use the Analog Audio inputs for their audio, Depends on the Manf.
Asphyx said:
I'm going to start off with the possible stupid reasons so please don't get insulted by the question! LOL
Are you sure your in the right Audio In? Most of the time VGA in will have it's own Audio Input which in most cases is a Mini Phone (headphone) Jack. Hard to see sometimes unless your looking for it.
If thats not the issue, Check the Menu on the Projector to see if there is a setting for which Audio source to use when on VGA.
I'm guessing you have a bunch of connectors (I'm betting 10, 3 for Analog/Composite, 5 for Component, 1 VGA and one for VGA Audio.)
But sometimes both the Component and VGA use the Analog Audio inputs for their audio, Depends on the Manf.
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I am connect the audio jack on the adapter directly to a set of earphone. That works at least for xbox 360.
minmao said:
I am connect the audio jack on the adapter directly to a set of earphone. That works at least for xbox 360.
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Well it may not be enough power to drive headphones but enough to drive the XBox which is probably line level in.
Headphones require a higher power signal than Line Level...You might hear something but it will be too low and possibly not at all.
If you can send me a link to the device you have I can take a look to see what it puts out.
In most cases they only put out Line Level not Speaker Level.
Asphyx said:
Well it may not be enough power to drive headphones but enough to drive the XBox which is probably line level in.
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Given that the device seems to be powered by the HDMI connection, almost certain it does not have an audio amplifier.
As a whole the device seems a bit scary to me, especially since it claims to support HDMI 1.2 (not sure where the chips are coming from at a $10 price tag), the support mail address is gmail, and support number is in Mountain View, CA - so just might be someone importing stuff. selle reviews on Newegg are spotty at best, but who knows these days...
bhiga said:
Given that the device seems to be powered by the HDMI connection, almost certain it does not have an audio amplifier.
As a whole the device seems a bit scary to me, especially since it claims to support HDMI 1.2 (not sure where the chips are coming from at a $10 price tag), the support mail address is gmail, and support number is in Mountain View, CA - so just might be someone importing stuff. selle reviews on Newegg are spotty at best, but who knows these days...
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He would have been better off getting an HDMI to component breakout box. Or a new Projector that has an HDMI in! LOL
The Boxes I use cost around the same as a Projector would! LOL
Asphyx said:
He would have been better off getting an HDMI to component breakout box. Or a new Projector that has an HDMI in! LOL
The Boxes I use cost around the same as a Projector would! LOL
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I'm quite happy with my HDfury2 output from Chromecast.
If the $10 solution works, great, but unless it's using recycled HDCP chips from a major manufacturer, it's likely to get blacklisted.