Database Develop

UK charger wiring diagram?

Hi, the adaptor part of my charger came apart today when I unplugged it from the mains. the contacts fell out and I'm having trouble figuring out how to re assemble it properly. I've searched but can't find a picture or wiring diagram, don't suppose anyone here would know where to find one?
Matt
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App

I had this with mine, my daughter(2yrs) pulled my charger out of the socket and it came apart went pop with smoke coming out of the bit of a charger left in the wall was quite worrying.. just waking up, just opened my eyes and saw what happened she just fell backwards and disappeared down the side of the bed (wasn't shocked just fell backwards over a shoe but my god i nearly had a heart attack) thank god for trip switches.
I dont have a wiring guide but i know how they go back together, with the plug facing away from you the two ends of the wires that look like a long hoop sort of loop back over towards the plug and drop down into the male sections in the plug section of the charger, it's pretty easy to do, once you've tested it to make sure it's working just superglue the edges and it will never come apart again.

Thanks, I'm glad your daughter was ok! that's a great help, do you remember which colour wire went on which side? I'll definitely put some glue on once I've checked it, thanks.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App

I can't remember but the wires go up to certain pins on the plug so just wire it back together like a usual plug (and test if it's wrong should just trip your plug socket), it would be easier for you just to google plug wiring to ensure the live goes to the correct pin, i can't send links so i cant post a link to a plug diagram.

Charger falls out.

Whenever I'm charging my captivate. The charger is loose and does not stay tight.
If I move the charger a little bit, it stops charging or recognize it as USB...
I'm using the standard charger that you get along with your captivate.
Are anyone of you experiencing the same problem? Is there a solution?
Sent from my phone

bluemoon1221 said:
Whenever I'm charging my captivate. The charger is loose and does not stay tight.
If I move the charger a little bit, it stops charging or recognize it as USB...
I'm using the standard charger that you get along with your captivate.
Are anyone of you experiencing the same problem? Is there a solution?
Sent from my phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same thing is happening to me, I don't k ow why.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

I found this usually only happens when the door covering the usb port isn't opened all the way. Make sure yours is open all the way.

Make sure u slide the charger cover all the way open is only thing I can guess might be wrong

Make sure the sliding door is all of the way open. It tends to stick, and then the connector doesn't click in place. If the door is all of the way open then the connector will stay in place firmly.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

Yeah that's the normal issue (the door not clicking open). Also, the stockcharger has little hook/protrusions that tends to hold it a bit better as well.

I always had my sliding thing fully opened.. the charger just doesnt seem to stay in place.. for ex. When my phone is on the ground charging, and if i pick up my phone, the charger tilts to the left which causes my phone to think its a usb..
Should i just get another charger? Any recommendation for one?
Sent from my phone

Yep, my OEM charger eventually became so loose that it would fall out unless the phone was propped up vertically. I read about crimping or adjusting the socket itself with needle nose pliers, but this didn't work for me. The only solution I found was to purchase another micro USB cable. So far my third party ones all fit fine.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using XDA Premium App

yeah likely the door or the cable

I think it's partly the Samsung adapter and MicroUSB in general. Mine's not that bad, but third party ones do seem to hold better, if not as well as some other connectors.

Its the stock adapter you get with the phone. After a while the prongs wear out. Third party chargers are excellent and a made more heavy duty and tight fitting. Thus they last longer.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897

I am having the same problem and I know for a fact that the door is open I think I have another USB around so I will have to give that a try.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

Working Motorola Dev Cable

I'll make sure to get some photos up soon of the whole operation.
Anyway I managed to get a Dev Cable built to successfully re-flash firmware to the Atrix. I actually bricked my phone three times and instantly was able to re-flash to 1.8.3 and higher.
So first off I found a previous post on another form about making a dev cable and noticed all you need to do is run a wire from the 1 pin (which is 5V) to the 4 pin (which has nothing attached to it).
Micro USB pin diagram here:
http://www.kineteka.com/microusb-b.aspx
It seemed simple enough, but in reality it is a slight pain to get inside the injected plastic to get to the pins. Basically what I ended up doing (and I'll get pictures up here soon) is cut into the USB cable about 2 inches behind the micro USB plug to make the red wire (5V) accessible. Next I cut off the plastic shielding around the micro USB and slowly pried away the metal clips. The important part here is to not break off the tip of the USB cable that is used to secure the cable to the phone.
Now the hard part… if the plastic is clear then your work is cut out for you and you can just melt the plastic to the 4 pin connector and solder. If it’s not, then you have to do some careful exploring, the best option I have found is to melt the plastic to find the 4 pin. Cutting away the plastic also helps but caution you might cut into the wrong area and sever a wire (I did this twice already). Next step is to clean and solder a wire to the 4 pin connector; I used the wire from a butchered USB cable from this project, make sure the wire is long enough to allow for errors.
Finally run the wire back to the first cut in the USB cable and solder or use heat shrink tubing to bind the Red Wire (5V) to the jumper wire that runs from the 4 pin connector on the micro usb.
With a little luck it should work!
My soldering is not that great and one out of the two cables I made worked.
If you have any questions, ask!

Climber Ty said:
I'll make sure to get some photos up soon of the whole operation.
Anyway I managed to get a Dev Cable built to successfully re-flash firmware to the Atrix. I actually bricked my phone three times and instantly was able to re-flash to 1.8.3 and higher.
So first off I found a previous post on another form about making a dev cable and noticed all you need to do is run a wire from the 1 pin (which is 5V) to the 4 pin (which has nothing attached to it).
Micro USB pin diagram here:
http://www.kineteka.com/microusb-b.aspx
It seemed simple enough, but in reality it is a slight pain to get inside the injected plastic to get to the pins. Basically what I ended up doing (and I'll get pictures up here soon) is cut into the USB cable about 2 inches behind the micro USB plug to make the red wire (5V) accessible. Next I cut off the plastic shielding around the micro USB and slowly pried away the metal clips. The important part here is to not break off the tip of the USB cable that is used to secure the cable to the phone.
Now the hard part… if the plastic is clear then your work is cut out for you and you can just melt the plastic to the 4 pin connector and solder. If it’s not, then you have to do some careful exploring, the best option I have found is to melt the plastic to find the 4 pin. Cutting away the plastic also helps but caution you might cut into the wrong area and sever a wire (I did this twice already). Next step is to clean and solder a wire to the 4 pin connector; I used the wire from a butchered USB cable from this project, make sure the wire is long enough to allow for errors.
Finally run the wire back to the first cut in the USB cable and solder or use heat shrink tubing to bind the Red Wire (5V) to the jumper wire that runs from the 4 pin connector on the micro usb.
With a little luck it should work!
My soldering is not that great and one out of the two cables I made worked.
If you have any questions, ask!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Buying one would be the perfect from you or ebay. I can't believe you bricked your phone that many times.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

unforgivenmercy said:
Buying one would be the perfect from you or ebay. I can't believe you bricked your phone that many times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All in the name of science hehe!

@unforgivenmercy
PM me your address and we will send you a free one for the idea.

Sounds great! appreciate your effort.

Nikropht said:
@unforgivenmercy
PM me your address and we will send you a free one for the idea.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks man. That would be much appreciated. Before I do send my info do you reside in the continental US?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

Is this not the same thing people were doing months ago to get USB host support? I made your same "dev" cable using an OTG cable and doing the soldering you did to the pins on your cable instead to the inside of a cheap USB hub. This made wire stripping and melting altogether unnecessary.

omni_angel7 said:
Is this not the same thing people were doing months ago to get USB host support? I made your same "dev" cable using an OTG cable and doing the soldering you did to the pins on your cable instead to the inside of a cheap USB hub. This made wire stripping and melting altogether unnecessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure I don't see how it couldn't be used like that. I just did this because I had a few extra micro USB cables laying around and one bricked phone. Mostly I wanted to see if this would work... I did notice just now (at the time I just wanted to show the diagram) that the link I posted to the USB diagram actually just has the micro USB connector as a part. Which in all reality is somewhat easier since all you need is the 4 wires from a cut USB cable and a jumper wire from pin 1 to pin 4 and then shrink tube from there.
But I worked with what I had at the time and it functions.

See this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=997187
I don't think any hardbricking has been saved here...
What you had was soft bricking.

omni_angel7 said:
See this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=997187
I don't think any hardbricking has been saved here...
What you had was soft bricking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't mention hard bricking, just bricking in general. I have another phone that has the
Code:
0x1000
Entering NVFlash recovery mode
Battery is too low to flash
that shows for three seconds and then the screen goes blank. From what I understand that is more of a hardbrick.
I'll try it on that and see if I have success.

cool work mahn!!

---------- Post added at 02:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:55 PM ----------
unforgivenmercy said:
Thanks man. That would be much appreciated. Before I do send my info do you reside in the continental US?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep we are in Texas!

Nikropht said:
@unforgivenmercy
PM me your address and we will send you a free one for the idea.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This! Can it force my phone into RSD or Fastboot mode when it's hardbricked?
Climber Ty said:
I didn't mention hard bricking, just bricking in general. I have another phone that has the
Code:
0x1000
Entering NVFlash recovery mode
Battery is too low to flash
that shows for three seconds and then the screen goes blank. From what I understand that is more of a hardbrick.
I'll try it on that and see if I have success.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that's a soft brick, but the battery is too low to flash so your gonna need a charged battery...

Alaq said:
This! Can it force my phone into RSD or Fastboot mode when it's hardbricked?
I think that's a soft brick, but the battery is too low to flash so your gonna need a charged battery...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
x0001 failed to boot is a HARD brick
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

You have the numbers reversed anything that says failed to boot x1000 is a hard brick and apparently motorola doesn't fix them they usually give a refurbished phone.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

unforgivenmercy said:
You have the numbers reversed anything that says failed to boot x1000 is a hard brick and apparently motorola doesn't fix them they usually give a refurbished phone.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agree the I pulled out the phone that had a backwards firmware flash to 1.8.3 (the failed to boot 0x1000 one) and so far no luck on being able to get the NVFlash to stay up longer than a few seconds. I'll look into a few more options maybe I'll find out how to do this JTAG fix rumor that I see floating around on these forums. I know it's chasing ghosts through concrete walls, but I have the time/hardware to do it.

Do keep the updates coming if it works for you.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

unforgivenmercy said:
Do keep the updates coming if it works for you.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, will do.

Climber Ty said:
Thanks, will do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem man.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

[Q] Charging cable using metal pin not microusb like dock?

Is there any cable can charge like the dock, connect the phone by touch the metal pin not through the microusb hub?

kench928 said:
Is there any cable can charge like the dock, connect the phone by touch the metal pin not through the microusb hub?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes.
Edit: Sorry, that is totally wrong, and intentionally brief and useless because I thought I was posting in Nexus 10 thread and that you just hadn't bothered searching (for pogo cable). My bad
Anyway, now we're on the same page, there aren't any cables that I'm aware of, there has been talk of DIYing one but so far the best is some sort of dock or click on connection to the pins as per the thread linked below.

alias_neo said:
Yes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mighty helpful there, aren't we?
Sent from my C6602 using xda app-developers app

A quick google search said no.
I guess you could make one by yourself. I've been thinking about this too...
Step1: find out the polarisation of the connectors on the phone
Step2: take a straight piece of plastic, make two holes with the right distance to eachother (pro version: make 4 holes)
Step3: put some wire through it and bend at the end to make a connector (put trough other holes of you made them)
Step4: solder a old usb charging cable to the connector
Step5: use rubber bands to hold in place while charging. take care it is the right way round because of the polarization. (and the polarization issue is why there are no official cables, stupid people would all connect it the wrong way round and then be pissed "Y IT NO WORK??!!11")
alternative: you can use the small crevice between body ad display to hold som kind of clip in place, instead of the rubber bands...

kench928 said:
Is there any cable can charge like the dock, connect the phone by touch the metal pin not through the microusb hub?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Almost all is here
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2167089
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

AndroidFreud said:
Mighty helpful there, aren't we?
Sent from my C6602 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hehe edited my response, my head was spinning today and thought I was replying to a nexus 10 thread.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk HD

[Q] Docking station broken, is it repairable?

Hi,
My made-in-china docking station has just arrived, unfortunately its already been broken (quality material of a matchbox :\),
I have plugged in my micro usb into the socket (female micro usb on the dock) and somehow after few tests the female receiver of the dock fell out.. (I guess it wasn't glued strong enough because I haven't use any extra power to push it in)
Any way.. I have opened it up to see whats going on and found this:
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/9554/a84p.jpg
The small piece on the left is the female micro usb plugger that was attached to the green board but fell off..
This is a sort of explanation:
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/2971/4wbl.jpg
And thats the part it self:
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/8735/ew44.jpg
Unfortunately I can't glue it back and definately not weld it on since its too tiny and I don't have proper equipment for that..
But I do want to try to fix it because god damn its 1 day old ! totally brand new!
So I was thinking maybe I should simply tear a cable and plug the + - to the red and black wires at the end of that board..
And so, here comes the question for you expert fellers.
First this is the board:
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/8915/xo1u.jpg
I have a basic knowledge in electricity but its from engineering study and not from real world, so I don't really know how to read this thing..
Perhaps a better intuition than mines will help too..
Is this board necessary? What does it do? and can't it live with out it?
Why they didn't simply plug the + and - straight to the + - pins of the docking points?
Because thats what I am willing to do but I guess that "Ask the experts before you ruin it" is a helpful tip my mom taught me..
Thanks!
Jordan.

its actually soldered, not welded. its not very hard to solder, even tiny parts.
theres still solder on it. you can reflow it with a heat gun... assuming from your post that you have a welder so im guessing you have a heat gun.
just put the part on where its supposed to go, align it, then heat it.
dont get too close and slowly let the heat build, it'll flow at once. try to avoid applying heat to other parts to prevent them from shifting around.
if you are worried theres not enough solder, buy some solder paste and put a little bit on it.
you can check youtube/google for tutorials on reflowing with a heatgun.
if you dont have a heat gun theres other ways but be mindful of the temperatures of the rest of the components, you dont want anything else falling off.
btw, only pins 2 and 3 are necessary, thats power and ground.

Thanks for your reply but I've actually already fixed it,
I didn't soldered (I used Google Translate for that word ) it all,
I simply plugged out the whole board and attatched the two wires to the +- of a usb cable...
It works great.
Sent from my C6603 using xda premium

i think this is not a good idea
you can destroy the phone with this "FIX", if the phone is fully loaded the dock would load further.
In a extremsituation it can flame up
Search for the heatgun and fix it correctly, please

0p3r4t0r said:
i think this is not a good idea
you can destroy the phone with this "FIX", if the phone is fully loaded the dock would load further.
In a extremsituation it can flame up
Search for the heatgun and fix it correctly, please
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I'm sorry but thats a full of crap..
first you absolutely cant flame up your phone by over charging it.. (where the hell have you ever heard about it?!)
secondly, the system for disconnect when the battery is full is inside the phone and not on the charger..
There are few circuit things for defending on the charger but not that..
And last, I already done it months ago and it wasn't bad at all.. sometimes it didn't charge to 100% or dropped down immediately.. but overall was fine..
I use now a new charger (also chinese crap), this one has the circuit board, I don't really feel anything different..
It charges good now but nothing extra noticeable...

Hey man, sorry i won't flame.
I mean the dock can lightup if you don't connect it correctly (short circuit)
But it's not my so you can do what you want
Sorry for missunderstanding

0p3r4t0r said:
Hey man, sorry i won't flame.
I mean the dock can lightup if you don't connect it correctly (short circuit)
But it's not my so you can do what you want
Sorry for missunderstanding
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be honest man there isn't enough current running through the USB to do anything nasty to the dock even if it did short circuit. It certainly wouldn't burn and you couldn't shock yourself, worst case scenario, the dock would just stop working.