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I brought my 7 home Saturday at 33% charge, plopped down on the couch, plugged it in and started playing. The battery level slowly dropped. The charger WILL charge it, but only when it's idle and it seems slow as hell. I figured a 2A charger would have my Razr Maxx full in no time but in an hour it went from 40% to 50%. After completely draining my Nexus 7 I plugged it in and charged it at idle for 12 hours. When I looked this morning it was at 67%.
I'm assuming the charger is bad. I also have a different cable plugged in to it which I suppose I should try replacing first. But if this thing actually charges that slow I'd rather find out now than keep searching for a problem that doesn't exist.
Is it possible that your cable is an older one and can't handle the higher electric current? I read that this happened to people who used older cable to charge the Retina iPad as well. Don't know whether this is the reason.
The cable is one I got on ebay for $1. Entirely possible that's the problem. I'll try the OE cable tonight.
You should always use what the device shipped with. More than likely, that's the problem.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda app-developers app
Well, I can't very well "use" a 3' usb cable. I hope you don't think you should buy $100 hdmi cables, too.
Nope, but most devices don't ship with HDMI cables. I've bought cheap cables online, but if my phone or tablet came with one I surely use it.
I've heard and seen people messing up their devices or having weird problems (like yours) from using a different cable and/or charger plug. So I always use what it came with. So many little nuances .
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda app-developers app
I definitely need a longer cable. Guess I'll just have to pony up for quality cables instead of these ones that ship from China.
qoncept said:
I definitely need a longer cable. Guess I'll just have to pony up for quality cables instead of these ones that ship from China.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Non-sense. Go to monoprice.com and you can get plenty of dirt-cheap cables that get the job done just fine. It sounds like you're currently using a 2-pin micro-USB instead of a 4-pin. The extra 2 pins are for data, as well as high-power charging for devices that pull more than USB's standard 500mA.
nickmv said:
Non-sense. Go to monoprice.com and you can get plenty of dirt-cheap cables that get the job done just fine. It sounds like you're currently using a 2-pin micro-USB instead of a 4-pin. The extra 2 pins are for data, as well as high-power charging for devices that pull more than USB's standard 500mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doh.. I'll start by pulling out the multimeter when I get home. Or maybe just looking before I even bother with that.
Lapdock+Wii == Gametrix
So I have a spare Nintendo Wii and a lapdock (hopefully pick some more up if there are still any at Radioshack) and I am going to disassemble the Wii, reconfigure it to fit on the back "panel" of the Lapdock, and get the needed cords to create a Gametrix[/]
My initial goal is to connect a Nintendo Wii to my Atrix Lapdock by... (with modifications)
1) a. Having the Lapdock’s Male Mini-HDMI plugged into a Female Mini-HDMI TO M / F Fullsized-HDMI converter. Thus allowing a direct HDMI connection from there.
This takes care of ½ of connections for both the Lapdock and the Wii.
2) a. Ideally I am looking to hook the Wii’s power supply directly to the Lapdock’s Male Micro-USB port, via a Female Micro-USB TO M / F Fullsized-USB. From there I’d need a USB to Female Wall Outlet (3 prong?) this would entail finding(unlikely...) / building one.
This takes care of power needs, (if it works) leaving only the unlikely usability of the Lapdocks built in keyboard and mouse / USB ports.
2) b. if number 2 section a (above) doesn’t work because of lack of volts traveling through the USB to the Wii, then I’d be left with connecting an external battery to the Wii and just taking advantage of the screen.
Hopefully if I have to result to section b then I’d at least be able to use the keyboard and mouse?
I will update with a Diagram of my plan “a” and “b” tomorrow after school.
Here are average power draw for the Wii. @17 Watts http://www.blogcdn.com/www.joystiq.com/media/2007/02/next-gen_console_power_lg.jpg
And here for Gamecube. @23 Watts http://www.tpcdb.com/product.php?id=1615
Lapdock voltage output. ??? I think I'd have to replace the battery because it's only supposed to charge a phone/run an OS...
Lapdock insternal battery mAh ???
Please guys I know it's a lot but any input is great input
sounds fun. good luck dude.
Use a wii its better and supports a HDMI converter.
The gamecube already has a battery pack accessory and a screen accessory so its easy been done
Sent from Moto Atrix 4g on Neutrino 2.91
I have decided to go with the Wii, I am trying to find info on how many amps the Wii draws and if the Lapdock is capable of powering it...
I think I would try seeing how they both look on the screen before diving in much further, but it does sound like it could be a fun project.
Other thoughts:
how useful the project will be specifically to you? For many of us, due to the limited availability of the lapdocks, there's a limited number of people that will be able to try this themselves.
do you plan on strictly playing games, or are you going a bit further by using Linux on the device? I imagine there is a way you could use the keyboard as some type of input device, although you may have to create some translator device from a programmable Microcontroller.
is the screen big enough for enjoying using the device or is it more of a challenge than it's worth. The screen may be plenty big enough for a handheld device, but for something like using a Wii controller where you are at a distance from the screen, is it big enough?
Budget This is something we all overlook far to often. Something starts off small and simple, but before you know it, you end up spending way more than you had anticipated.
I have 2 Wii's and a Lapdock, so budget is covered.
I'm not going to use the motion bar, just gamecube games.
My main concern is if the Lapdock can power it.
jeffreygtab said:
I have 2 Wii's and a Lapdock, so budget is covered.
I'm not going to use the motion bar, just gamecube games.
My main concern is if the Lapdock can power it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Power will probably be an issue through USB as USB does have a specification for max current of 500–900 mA (general); 5 A (charging devices). After that the port should shutdown to prevent burning out the controller.
Edit: I was looking at your figures above, did some digging, and I think you have a couple hurdles.
To start with, for power consumption, you want to look more at peak then you do at min and give yourself a bit of cushion, mainly because running at max power all the time will tax components. Second, and this is a big one, the Wii power pack apparently is 12V 3.7A (44.4W). USB is only 5 volts, and at 900mA you're peaking at 4.5W. However, if you could somehow manage to trick it into charge mode, you might be able to squeeze 25W. That's if it works like a standard USB port. If you can do that, you can step up the voltage with a charge pump, but I'm not quite sure how close to max that will put you due to efficiency losses. You may be able to go the other way and use the Wii to power the lapdock, or you may have to power them independently.
All that said, I think it's still important to just try to see what it looks like on the screen before digging in too far.
I plan on charging it through the Micro USB which you said supplies up to 23W+ Which is apparently plenty for the Wii. I'm going to order the necessary cords to attempt this, this weekend. So next week I'll know how much, if any, I have to modify to power it.....
I'll continue to research, and thanks for your help!
EDIT: screen size isn't an issue, as I'm have it right in from of me like a laptop, Playing Super Smash Bros Melee and the like.
BIG Message to everyone who's reading this. THIS IS MY FIRST HARDWARE MOD (as if that wasn't obvious?)
Anyways I'm gonna pick up a soldering iron as well, because I'm not finding a way to charge the Wii (assuming the Lapdock is capable...) There are no real ways to convert the micro usb to the 3 prong standard outlet that the Wii uses... So I may need to make my own? Will this work? http://www.sybausa.com/productInfo.php?iid=1274 Although I can't find where to buy it.
jeffreygtab said:
BIG Message to everyone who's reading this. THIS IS MY FIRST HARDWARE MOD (as if that wasn't obvious?)
Anyways I'm gonna pick up a soldering iron as well, because I'm not finding a way to charge the Wii (assuming the Lapdock is capable...) There are no real ways to convert the micro usb to the 3 prong standard outlet that the Wii uses... So I may need to make my own? Will this work? http://www.sybausa.com/productInfo.php?iid=1274 Although I can't find where to buy it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean you want to convert 5V DC to 120V AC and then downconvert to 12V? Better to just go from 5V to 12V, but the reality is that it's much easier to go down than up. What does the lapdock itself have for a power supply?
Edit: Looks like the Wii has some type of USB keyboard support. Not sure if you want to try getting that to work, but it might come in handy.
I know but isn't the Wii's power cord a standard 120v 3 prong wall charger? I'd have to convert the 3 prong format to a Micro USB.
The lapdocks power supply is the battery if that's what you were asking...
Thanks for helping on my first project btw.
Check out about halfway down the page on this link if you want to see what the Wii looks like on the lapdock screen:
http://www.robpol86.com/index.php/Atrix_Lapdock_Other_Uses
jeffreygtab said:
I know but isn't the Wii's power cord a standard 120v 3 prong wall charger? I'd have to convert the 3 prong format to a Micro USB.
The lapdocks power supply is the battery if that's what you were asking...
Thanks for helping on my first project btw.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad to share my limited knowledge. Anyway, Really, I'm unsure if you can pull 25W out of the USB or not, but even if you could, you'd lose a good chunk of that in going from 5V to 125V AC, because at this point, a charge pump is no longer an option but instead you would need a power inverter, and since most of the commercially available ones are designed to go from 12V DC to 120V AC, you would likely end up building one yourself. The charge pump (buck–boost converter) is much easier to build, but I'm not sure about how much power you can get out of it.
Here's one I built from modifying a schematic I found online somewhere:
I hate to be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.
ravilov said:
I hate yo be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
But as I said, I don't know if you can get that much power out of this particular device. 20W @12V is 1.6A, but in order to power that from 5V, you would need at least 4 Amps, which puts it close to max, but not over it. The actual port connector is rated much higher than that.
Edit: I do have to agree on one point though, running on battery power will be pretty limiting, especially when you consider what the batteries were intended for in the first place.
So you're saying that there's basically no way to power the Wii with the Lapdock's setup? Ughhh I assumed this would be a major issue but decided I'd leave the verdict to those more knowledgeable than myself... So you're sure there's no way? Well anyways I hope at the very least to connect an external Battery (recommendations?) and hopefully get the Wii to recognize the trackpad and keyboard esp. for linux use... I'll keep researching and keep you guys posted.
edit:
ravilov said:
I hate yo be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lehjr said:
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
But as I said, I don't know if you can get that much power out of this particular device. 20W @12V is 1.6A, but in order to power that from 5V, you would need at least 4 Amps, which puts it close to max, but not over it. The actual port connector is rated much higher than that.
Edit: I do have to agree on one point though, running on battery power will be pretty limiting, especially when you consider what the batteries were intended for in the first place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't read your reply Lehjr before posting mine, sorry about that. Anyways I'm still confused about whether or not the Lapdock is capable of powering the Wii? Anyways here is where I'm getting my very limited information on basic electronics. http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question501.htm I will keep studying though don't worry:laugh:
I'm going to post this on BenHeck Forums too for additional input. Again thank you guys.
lehjr said:
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hm, interesting. I don't know, I'd say even if the USB hardware might be able to withhold such high currents, it's only for a short while, not for continuous use. I'm talking about all the USB hardware now, not just the plugs and cords.
Anyway, while 5A might indeed be the theoretical maximum, I have yet to see an USB device that actually delivers anywhere close to that. Even most commercial "high-speed" chargers deliver only up to about 2A.
ravilov said:
Hm, interesting. I don't know, I'd say even if the USB hardware might be able to withhold such high currents, it's only for a short while, not for continuous use. I'm talking about all the USB hardware now, not just the plugs and cords.
Anyway, while 5A might indeed be the theoretical maximum, I have yet to see an USB device that actually delivers anywhere close to that. Even most commercial "high-speed" chargers deliver only up to about 2A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, running that close to maximum is likely going to be short lived, and that's if it can be coaxed to go there in the first place. I'm not sure what the portability thing is about anyway. The Wii may be small, but it's heavy.
---------- Post added at 09:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:19 PM ----------
jeffreygtab said:
So you're saying that there's basically no way to power the Wii with the Lapdock's setup? Ughhh I assumed this would be a major issue but decided I'd leave the verdict to those more knowledgeable than myself... So you're sure there's no way? Well anyways I hope at the very least to connect an external Battery (recommendations?) and hopefully get the Wii to recognize the trackpad and keyboard esp. for linux use... I'll keep researching and keep you guys posted.
edit:
Didn't read your reply Lehjr before posting mine, sorry about that. Anyways I'm still confused about whether or not the Lapdock is capable of powering the Wii? Anyways here is where I'm getting my very limited information on basic electronics. http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question501.htm I will keep studying though don't worry:laugh:
I'm going to post this on BenHeck Forums too for additional input. Again thank you guys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possibly capable, very slim chance, but doing so would be running very close to max the entire time the Wii is powered. You would also have to build a device to convert 5V to 12V, again, not impossible, but you do lose some power do to conversion inefficiencies. Is there any particular reason you want the device to be portable? IMHO, in order to run the Wii for any length of time, you would need a decent set of batteries. A few amps plugged in is one thing, on battery power that's something else. I could easily see you using something like a couple Power Wheels 6V batteries and a 12V charger or some similar setup, maybe some lithium cells if you're a big spender. Anything more than that and you're wheeling this thing around on a cart with a deep cycle marine/RV battery.
Haha a definitive answer would be welcomed as to whether it's theoretically capable or not, but if you can't provide that, I completely understand! Anyways It just needs to be temporarily portable, like 1 hour battery life is plenty. Thanks... Btw I can't actually thank you guys anymore as I'm out of thanks.
Hi I am looking for a case that will plug into the microusb and provide an alternate port. The port being the weakness on every mobile device by plugging/unplugging all the time. Ive lost more than 1 phone this way. i just want to preserve the life of my Nexus. I dont mind if it increases the length overall. Has anyone heard of such a thing?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Here is how I solved it, I have:
1. Asus Nexus 7 Dock
2. Sena Ultraslim pouch
So if I need to charge, it easy to remove the tablet from it, as for transferring files, I use wifi or Google Drive, simple as that.
Maybe I'm lucky, I've never broken a charging socket on a phone....but...the idea of a socket extension on a case is a great one. I've had to 'mod' a few charger plugs to get them to fit into the space left by case manufacturers around the socket.
craigviar said:
Hi I am looking for a case that will plug into the microusb and provide an alternate port. The port being the weakness on every mobile device by plugging/unplugging all the time. Ive lost more than 1 phone this way. i just want to preserve the life of my Nexus. I dont mind if it increases the length overall. Has anyone heard of such a thing?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
do you mean something like the battery pack cases for phones cause I have never seen one for any tablet. You could get an otg cable and mod a case to hold it in place to do what you want I believe.
Acela1230 said:
do you mean something like the battery pack cases for phones cause I have never seen one for any tablet. You could get an otg cable and mod a case to hold it in place to do what you want I believe.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I've thought about doing that but was hoping for something more professional. Also I use a $35 seido case (already broke 2 N7's so I need the heavy case), would have to buy a second one to extend it to make the mod, with a good chance of doing a bad job of it and wasting $70.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
I still don't get it, according to Wikipedia, micro USB port, can handle like 10000 cycles of connect/disconnect, and will be fine..so how do you destroy them?
quote:
"The newer Micro-USB receptacles are designed for up to 10,000 cycles of insertion and removal between the receptacle and plug, compared to 1,500 for the standard USB and 5,000 for the Mini-USB receptacle. This is accomplished by adding a locking device and by moving the leaf-spring connector from the jack to the plug, so that the most-stressed part is on the cable side of the connection. This change was made so that the connector on the less expensive cable would bear the most wear instead of the more expensive micro-USB device"
E15i said:
I still don't get it, according to Wikipedia, micro USB port, can handle like 10000 cycles of connect/disconnect, and will be fine..so how do you destroy them?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My HTC Thunderbolt disagrees. Ive been having to swap the battery 3 times a day for the past year, using external chargers. For a while I could still connect to PC with a usb cable, not to charge but for file transfers, but now I can't do that either.
...
EDIT - Post #6 has a quote from Kensington confirming the charger does not work with the Nexus Tablet
So been trying to get a dual-USB 2.1A charger to use with my Nexus 7 and my old desire-Z phone (I also have a 1st gen iPad so figured would be a nice perk for both ports to deliver that juice).
I even went as far as buying a new USB Cable thinking something was wrong with my cable and flashing a couple of different kernels (thinking it was maybe that).
Fact is whenever I plug my N7 into a Kensington AbsolutePower 4.2 w/ PowerWhiz (K39690AM), Battery Monitor Pro widget will say in green "AC Plugged", "Discharging", and if it does show "Charging", it's only drawing in around 130mA or so. But yet on my Desire-Z (G2) I plug that in, it'll show maybe around 500mA (it won't go over 1A because it's designed not to for smart phones).
However If I plug the N7 into a Samsung 2.1A charger that came with a Galaxy Tab 2 7.0, The N7 will show a power draw from the charger a little above 1,800mA (and then goes down to around 500 or less once it hits 99%), similar situation with the samsung charger + my G2.
So I'm constantly googling trying to figure out whats up, and the only thing I've come across are various reviews on Amazon (they list this as a Dual 2.1A USB charger), with some complaints saying they don't work with Asus Tablets and another saying it wouldn't charge much at all on his Nexus 10.
So I'm wondering... what's up with that, and why does it not say it's not compatible on the box (though guess they sort of did by excluding Asus and Google from the list of brands on the side).
Its charging. Just the os is not showing it properly
Sent from a phone that's 2 Note-worthy, via XDA Premium HD app.
madman604 said:
Its charging. Just the os is not showing it properly
Sent from a phone that's 2 Note-worthy, via XDA Premium HD app.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As I said, I'm using Battery Widget Monitor Pro. IF it was only the OS it would show the exact same deal with the Samsung 2.1A Charger, Nook 1A charger, HTC 1A charger. But instead on ALL chargers except the Kensington one, it shows a much higher charge rate (on the 1A around 800mA charge, on the Samsung around 1.7A charge).
But on the Kensington one never more than 500mA (usually around 300-400). I even exchanged the unit for a new one, and still the exact same behavior. I think the powerWhiz feature of the charger is detecting it not as a tablet but rather as a generic USB Device and is not providing more than 500mA for 'safe' charging. Just like how it won't charge my phone past 1A since it's detected as a SmartPhone even though it's a 2.1A port.
kbeezie said:
As I said, I'm using Battery Widget Monitor Pro. IF it was only the OS it would show the exact same deal with the Samsung 2.1A Charger, Nook 1A charger, HTC 1A charger. But instead on ALL chargers except the Kensington one, it shows a much higher charge rate (on the 1A around 800mA charge, on the Samsung around 1.7A charge).
But on the Kensington one never more than 500mA (usually around 300-400). I even exchanged the unit for a new one, and still the exact same behavior. I think the powerWhiz feature of the charger is detecting it not as a tablet but rather as a generic USB Device and is not providing more than 500mA for 'safe' charging. Just like how it won't charge my phone past 1A since it's detected as a SmartPhone even though it's a 2.1A port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The N7 has a circuit to detect whether the USB cable is plugged into its charger or into a regular USB port. The N7's charger shorts the two data pins. If your charger doesn't short those two pins, the N7 will never go into "high charge" mode.
There is a simple mod to do. Either take the charger apart and short what the data pins should be on the usb port or short the data wires together in a cheapo usb cable at the micro usb side. That will make a charge only cable but it will give. What you need.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
So turns out I wasn't crazy after testing two of their chargers.
Dear Karl:
Thank you for contacting Kensington Technical Support.
We understand that our Absolute Power™ 4.2 Dual Fast Charge is not charging your Nexus tablet properly, we regret to inform you that Absolute Power™ 4.2 Dual Fast Charge for Tablets is not compatible with Nexus Tablet, hence we would be glad to refund you the amount.
If the date of purchase is within 90 days, we request you to utilize the 90-days Money Back Guarantee policy.
Please click on the following link to know about the 90-days Money Back Guarantee form
http://www.kensington.com/kensington/us/us/s/1570/90-day-money-back-guarantee.aspx
We are sorry for the inconvenience caused.
If you need further assistance, please feel free to reply to this message.
For any further assistance please feel free to reply back to this email or you may want to call us on our toll-free number 1800-535-4242, Mon Fri 07:30 am to 04:30 pm PST.
Please Read This!
Kensington Technical Support incidents are only processed via our support web site, not via email. Please do NOT reply to this email, but rather you must click on the link below which will bring you to the Kensington Technical Support web portal where you can initiate questions, modify your active incidents, or perform maintenance on your support account.
Again, please do NOT respond to this incident via email, please click on the link below to access your support incident. Thank you.
http://www.kensington.com/kensington/us/us/s/1708/mystuff.aspx
Kensington Computer Products Group
Regards,
Shiva Kumar
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
graydiggy said:
There is a simple mod to do. Either take the charger apart and short what the data pins should be on the usb port or short the data wires together in a cheapo usb cable at the micro usb side. That will make a charge only cable but it will give. What you need.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea... I'm not taking apart a charger. I just returned the second one to the store where I got it and got one that did work. Also that method won't work with the kensington, with it's powerwhiz feature if it can't detect the device it'll limit to 500mA for safety.
Besides I've already returned the second charger (I exchanged the first one, re-ran tests, etc), and ended up getting an RCA 4-outlet power strip/surge protector that has two USB ports (one for 2.1A charging) that does work.
All android devices look for 200ohms on the data pins to determine if it is a charge vs data source. Except the handful of proprietary connections (ex:Nook Color).
Yep. All things said in this thread are true. What I've found to work great with the stuff I already have is a Samsung Galaxy S4 charger. That thing
charges the N7 at about 1500 mA. Measured with my multimeter. It's weird though,
it'll start around 800mA and after about 45s to a minute it will start pulling in almost double that.
Crazy.
I have a few of the belkin/off brand dual USB auto adapters. But they all have output of around 500mA so basically when using bluetooth and GPS on the rd I'm drawing more power than I'm getting. I've looked around on amazon for some usb adapters but seems like a lot of them for some reason only really fast charge with IPads or other apple devices and for some reason they slow charge android devices. Apparently iphones have some sort of communications with the chargers to draw more power.
So my question is does anyone have one or know of one that works with the G2 and fast charges. I'd prefer one that is flush like my existing belkin and not one that sticks out a few inches. Dual ports would be nice, but at this point I'm not picky. Having said that, I'd like to not spend $30 on it.
To add to it, I installed some battery monitor widget and while in the car today I just popped it open and noticed that it said "USB Connected Discharging" So basically It actually drains power quicker than if it wasn't connected to the charger at all!
mims1979 said:
I have a few of the belkin/off brand dual USB auto adapters. But they all have output of around 500mA so basically when using bluetooth and GPS on the rd I'm drawing more power than I'm getting. I've looked around on amazon for some usb adapters but seems like a lot of them for some reason only really fast charge with IPads or other apple devices and for some reason they slow charge android devices. Apparently iphones have some sort of communications with the chargers to draw more power.
So my question is does anyone have one or know of one that works with the G2 and fast charges. I'd prefer one that is flush like my existing belkin and not one that sticks out a few inches. Dual ports would be nice, but at this point I'm not picky. Having said that, I'd like to not spend $30 on it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a long thread on this already.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2454301
It seems that the bigger issue is not finding a 2amp charger, but a USB cable with the correct gauge similar to the oem one. I believe the oem cable is 20 gauge and I believe I found one on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B009Z94PV2/ref=mw_dp_cr
I don't get why it's such a difficult thing to find? Doesn't LG make a car charger that charges it's own phone?
I use my older Motorola ones and they work fine. Not full 2 amp but I can stream iheartradio or Pandora and the phone will charge up still. But the screen is off, not like using GPS. Still would like a fast charger tho.
I have an Anker 24w 2 port charger and it charges my phone as fast as the wall charger. I tested it with a charger doctor and it does read 1.8a current flowing thru.
Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
I got a charger made by rocket dog I do believe for best buy best car charger I've ever had and it has an extra usb on the top
Sent from my LG-LS980 using xda app-developers app
It's not the charger that seems to be the problem. 2a Chargers can be had in many places. It seems a 20 gauge wire is the difference.
Here is a link to a post I made in another thread with a tested and working setup in my car
Cheap too.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=50053524&postcount=229
No, the problem is the op isn't using a charger designed for Android.