Database Develop

Captivate Replacment Question

I just had my captivate replaced due to the shutoff issue. The new phone does not have the standard sticker under the battery but rather a generic white sticker with little info.
This is straight frm the ATT store and does include the IMEI however it does not show the hardware version. I remember reading a few times there was something with the newer models in regards to flashing. Can any link me to the right post or give me an idea if there is anythign i neeed to be worried about.
Thanks

Check to see if you can do the three button method to get into recovery mode and also check that you can get into download mode using 2-button + usb cable. If you can do that you are in good shape to the best of my knowledge. I got two replacements (same time, one mine & one wife's) and did this check and everything has been going great. We have had zero shutdowns and great GPS with stock or most of the many ROMS I have ran since the "new' phones arrived.

Yea tried those first thing. Hope this phone works out the shutdown thing was evil.

Bricked Captivate Assistance

Hi team. I've searched the forums for answers and even though I've read a thousand excellent posts, none (of course) fit my situation specifically. I'll try to be as brief as I can.
My AT&T-branded, Chinese imported Captivate was only three weeks old when I first soft-bricked it trying to do an update using Kies (thanks Samsung!) and then because it would only go into download mode, I tried using Odin to reflash back to where I was. The flash didn't take and I was left with nothing; no charging icon, no computer recognition (Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit using the generic Samsung Android phone drivers downloaded from somewhere on XDA) and no boot/download mode; in other words, hard-bricked and nothing working.
I bought myself a riffbox and spent a long time reading various forum posts about using it; I own a computer repair company and have flashed a million motherboard, modem, router and other firmwares over the past 15 years and have even done a Samsung S2 and a Galaxy Pad in the last week so am reasonably comfortable with the process, even though I'm not hugely experiences yet with the riffbox.
Anyway, I imported and soldered the recommended panasonic socket to the JTAG point and made myself some PCB adapters to fit and break out the Riffbox cables. That's all done and dusted and today I used the Riffbox on my Captivate for the first time, apparently detecting the 'dead body' and flashing the ROM successfully (the box and software would soon tell me if something wasn't right). While I hoped it would, I didn't expect my phone to boot straight away, but did expect it to go into download mode, as suggested in the JTAG literature with the Riffbox. This is where it all gets bent out of shape.
I always get into download mode with my Captivate by dropping the battery and then replugging with the Vol + and - buttons held. I have tried all methodfs I can find on XDA but all either don't work or do the same thing, that is, my phone enters download mode for about ten seconds, then drops out again. During that time, all USB devices 'hang' while the computer tries to fathom what the hell is connected there and Andy just holds his shovel and laughs at me before disappearing once again into the inky blackness of a dead screen. The device manager shows an unknown device detected before letting it go again and mouse and keyboard control resumes. Weird. I thought it might be a flat battery but I've charged that so it has plenty of juice. When plugged via USB, there is 4 volts at the battery terminals (measured with the battery out) so it would charge when plugged in (wall wart or USB cable) even though no icon shows.
Like any good tech I went back and reflashed using both the recommended ROM and 'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash) and the phone still does the same thing; enters download mode then off. I made up a USB dongle/jig using exactly 301 kilohms of resistance (measured digitally) across pins 4 and 5 and followed the various videos/explanations to get into download mode that way but this does not work on my phone, leading me to think something else is broken.
Bottom line is that it seems the phone doesn't have to be connected via USB to enter download mode but if Windows cannot load the phone, then I cannot use Odin or Heimdall to reflash it. I don't think it is drivers because it worked OK before the brick (well, not perfectly but it did connect and I had USB drive support etc.) and besides, I have tried reinstalling drivers to no avail. Can anyone suggest anything I can try (shipping it to some guy in the USA is not the answer I'm going for here so please don't waste your time or mine). As far as I can see, I have done everything the people here suggest and the JTAG/Riffbox instructions to the letter but it just does not want to happen. I'd rather not lose the phone and since I eventually want to offer this sort of service in my business, I want to get it to work on my own phone for my own pride and knowledge.
Cheers from Christchurch New Zealand.

Follow up.
davenz said:
Hi team. I've searched the forums for answers and even though I've read a thousand excellent posts, none (of course) fit my situation specifically. I'll try to be as brief as I can.
My AT&T-branded, Chinese imported Captivate was only three weeks old when I first soft-bricked it trying to do an update using Kies (thanks Samsung!) and then because it would only go into download mode, I tried using Odin to reflash back to where I was. The flash didn't take and I was left with nothing; no charging icon, no computer recognition (Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit using the generic Samsung Android phone drivers downloaded from somewhere on XDA) and no boot/download mode; in other words, hard-bricked and nothing working.
I bought myself a riffbox and spent a long time reading various forum posts about using it; I own a computer repair company and have flashed a million motherboard, modem, router and other firmwares over the past 15 years and have even done a Samsung S2 and a Galaxy Pad in the last week so am reasonably comfortable with the process, even though I'm not hugely experiences yet with the riffbox.
Anyway, I imported and soldered the recommended panasonic socket to the JTAG point and made myself some PCB adapters to fit and break out the Riffbox cables. That's all done and dusted and today I used the Riffbox on my Captivate for the first time, apparently detecting the 'dead body' and flashing the ROM successfully (the box and software would soon tell me if something wasn't right). While I hoped it would, I didn't expect my phone to boot straight away, but did expect it to go into download mode, as suggested in the JTAG literature with the Riffbox. This is where it all gets bent out of shape.
I always get into download mode with my Captivate by dropping the battery and then replugging with the Vol + and - buttons held. I have tried all methodfs I can find on XDA but all either don't work or do the same thing, that is, my phone enters download mode for about ten seconds, then drops out again. During that time, all USB devices 'hang' while the computer tries to fathom what the hell is connected there and Andy just holds his shovel and laughs at me before disappearing once again into the inky blackness of a dead screen. The device manager shows an unknown device detected before letting it go again and mouse and keyboard control resumes. Weird. I thought it might be a flat battery but I've charged that so it has plenty of juice. When plugged via USB, there is 4 volts at the battery terminals (measured with the battery out) so it would charge when plugged in (wall wart or USB cable) even though no icon shows.
Like any good tech I went back and reflashed using both the recommended ROM and 'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash) and the phone still does the same thing; enters download mode then off. I made up a USB dongle/jig using exactly 301 kilohms of resistance (measured digitally) across pins 4 and 5 and followed the various videos/explanations to get into download mode that way but this does not work on my phone, leading me to think something else is broken.
Bottom line is that it seems the phone doesn't have to be connected via USB to enter download mode but if Windows cannot load the phone, then I cannot use Odin or Heimdall to reflash it. I don't think it is drivers because it worked OK before the brick (well, not perfectly but it did connect and I had USB drive support etc.) and besides, I have tried reinstalling drivers to no avail. Can anyone suggest anything I can try (shipping it to some guy in the USA is not the answer I'm going for here so please don't waste your time or mine). As far as I can see, I have done everything the people here suggest and the JTAG/Riffbox instructions to the letter but it just does not want to happen. I'd rather not lose the phone and since I eventually want to offer this sort of service in my business, I want to get it to work on my own phone for my own pride and knowledge.
Cheers from Christchurch New Zealand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since none of the gurus here bothered to respond I'll do it myself in case someone else finds the same issue.
Turns out the battery was faulty; I replaced it and succeeded in getting the phone into download mode with both the jig and the usual methods. Then the computer would not recognize the phone, the dreaded 'unknown device' in the device manager. I was using the factory cable that came with the phone but tried a third-party one I had for a Chicom HTC copy I had lying around and this allowed the phone to be recognized by Windows (go figure). I used Odin to unbrick/reflash and it is all go now, interestingly both cables now work for the phone within Windows so it is always worth trying something even though it makes no real sense to do so.

Darn, that is exactly what I was going to say to do!
Next time, try a rotating disc nebulizer, which you can redesign with respect to the principle parameters that determine its analytical performance. The flow pattern of the aerosols you will attain can be optimized by altering the shape of the inner chamber for optimum aerodynamic characteristics. Furthermore, the optimum angle of impact needs to be established using particle size distribution and mass transport efficiency as criteria. Any analytical characteristics you determine will be through monitoring the emission signal from an aqueous standard. The accuracy has to be assessed by using reference steel and iridium samples.
It is easy to construct, and the fundamental component is a rotating disc onto which a liquid sample is introduced. It should require no additional spray chamber and be easy to operate effectively. Once in operation it should produce aerosols with mean droplet diameters of approximately 0.50 µm.
You may then utilize inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry to determine the defect.:good:

^
ROFLMAO !!!!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium

Rotating Disc Nebulizer
-SGA- said:
Darn, that is exactly what I was going to say to do!
Next time, try a rotating disc nebulizer, which you can redesign with respect to the principle parameters that determine its analytical performance. The flow pattern of the aerosols you will attain can be optimized by altering the shape of the inner chamber for optimum aerodynamic characteristics. Furthermore, the optimum angle of impact needs to be established using particle size distribution and mass transport efficiency as criteria. Any analytical characteristics you determine will be through monitoring the emission signal from an aqueous standard. The accuracy has to be assessed by using reference steel and iridium samples.
It is easy to construct, and the fundamental component is a rotating disc onto which a liquid sample is introduced. It should require no additional spray chamber and be easy to operate effectively. Once in operation it should produce aerosols with mean droplet diameters of approximately 0.50 µm.
You may then utilize inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry to determine the defect.:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is excellent advice and ordinarily I would agree 110%, however I have found that the later model Rotating Disc Nebulisers have an inherent fault in the flange valve regulator, which in turn affects the lead mercury ratio and results in even harder bricking of susceptible devices. If, however, you feather an older nebulizer with the updated underhead/overhang mod then even the nastiest conflibulator inversion is easily bypassed. Just for information's sake...

davenz said:
This is excellent advice and ordinarily I would agree 110%, however I have found that the later model Rotating Disc Nebulisers have an inherent fault in the flange valve regulator, which in turn affects the lead mercury ratio and results in even harder bricking of susceptible devices. If, however, you feather an older nebulizer with the updated underhead/overhang mod then even the nastiest conflibulator inversion is easily bypassed. Just for information's sake...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMG, that was some seriously original stuff! Anyone try Googling "conflibulator inversion"? This is the only result, lol!
Glad to hear your flashing worked out, I think the process you followed is a lot more in depth than many of us would ever undertake...

-SGA- said:
OMG, that was some seriously original stuff! Anyone try Googling "conflibulator inversion"? This is the only result, lol!
Glad to hear your flashing worked out, I think the process you followed is a lot more in depth than many of us would ever undertake...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I wasn't about to throw away 350 bucks (our money, which is worth about three chickens and a bag of salt in anyone else's currency) and since I pride myself in being able to fix anything, the challenge was set in motion when I discovered (via this excellent resource) that the Captivate was a) hard to brick (I found it pretty easy to be honest) and b) the hardest to unbrick.One poster claimed that if you can unbrick a Captivate you can unbrick anything, so I had to give it a go. After all, what did I have to lose?
As I mentioned, I intend to diversify my computer repair business into mobile gadget repairs anyway and I can think of nothing more noble than unbricking phones. I learned an incredible amount on the way through the whole process and while just having the tools doesn't make me an expert, I'm happy to work my way toward that goal and if I help others on the way, well, it's a win/win.
Thanks for the entertaining posts and cheers from Christchurch, New Zealand.

I sure hope you tried locating the flux capacitor before going through all that work. Could have saved you from having to go through the whole "Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose" process.

Glad to hear you are de-worse-ifying your biz.
You should add the left-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe to your tools. I am told its use dramatically improves GPS performance, and provides immediate position locks to some position, however distant from where you thought you were.
-written whilst sipping high temperature psychoactive botanical filtrate in my ceramic gravitational containment vessel with plalangeal bracket (aka coffee in my mug).
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using xda app-developers app

Thanks
wwcjr91 said:
I sure hope you tried locating the flux capacitor before going through all that work. Could have saved you from having to go through the whole "Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose" process.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now you tell me! The entire Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose scenario had me stumped there for a while but after referencing 'Nocturnal Urinary Releases and other Stories', the famous Declan-decoding text by I. P. Nightly, a liberal application of lubricating gel in all the right places had the whole thing well in hand...
And as for the left-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe, that's again where I went wrong with a newbie mistake. Sadly I ordered the right-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe and of course it didn't moglify the selindicular quadronizer at all. In fact, it broke it off at the chalisticator and left me up the paddle without a creek, so to speak. Nevertheless, a little old-fashioned luck and a tap with the old thorificating polookanizer soon had things back on track.
Now all I need is another Speckled Jim for the halitosinifer (do you REALLY want to know?) and all will be well in my world (which is not like other worlds if posts on XDA are anything to go by...)
Thanks all for your excellent input, it has been a journey through the looking glass!

well i really liked the "brilliantly" thought of posts about the legendary tools mentioned... hehe
i was really looking forward to more comments to lighten up the mood
pls keep posting
3 cheers
btw i am also stuck at dead hard brick on my cappy
regards

alot of youtube videos provide help on unbricking

...'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please.
Someone know what Gremlin Zone exactly is?
Location in OneNAND ? Or somewhere else?
Maybe adresses or dump of Gremlin Zone would be nice.
Thanx in advance.
Best Regards

adfree said:
Please.
Someone know what Gremlin Zone exactly is?
Location in OneNAND ? Or somewhere else?
Maybe adresses or dump of Gremlin Zone would be nice.
Thanx in advance.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the person to ask would be AdamOutler. You're asking for some deep knowledge in general

Xperia Z not vibrating issue

Can this be fixed with an update?
I'm planning to switch my S3 for a white model that doesn't vibrate no matter what. And he/she isn't the only one with a non vibrating XZ.
Also how does the screen compare to S3 bar viewing angles.
Exynos S III @ 1.2GHz, CM10.1

23Six said:
Can this be fixed with an update?
I'm planning to switch my S3 for a white model that doesn't vibrate no matter what. And he/she isn't the only one with a non vibrating XZ.
Also how does the screen compare to S3 bar viewing angles.
Exynos S III @ 1.2GHz, CM10.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never heard of that issue, at least I don't have.
As for the viewing angle, there are plenty of reviews and videos out there which are self explanatory.

Not vibrating issues? Elaborate... Was it like that out of the box, did it work at some point and now it doesn't? Give us some more info than just saying "not vibrating".
If it didn't function out of the box, return it.
If you've rooted it, and flashed a ROM, and it doesn't work, go back to where u came from.
In case it doesn't work after that, yer outta luck. Luckily I never had to go to a repair process.
Screen subpar compared to others? That was highlighted in many reviews before the phone was on the market, so if you did not pay attention to reviews, that is yer own fault.
Plus you had time to return it after the initial purchase.... Assuming that it was purchased in a normal fashion.
And please. Not specifying an issue does not actually help. It adds to the general confusion.
Is like stating that the volume on yer tv doesn't work, without stating how, and since when it happened. Could be a "person in chair" symptom as we perceive it in the IT world....

deffjeff said:
Not vibrating issues? Elaborate... Was it like that out of the box, did it work at some point and now it doesn't? Give us some more info than just saying "not vibrating".
If it didn't function out of the box, return it.
If you've rooted it, and flashed a ROM, and it doesn't work, go back to where u came from.
In case it doesn't work after that, yer outta luck. Luckily I never had to go to a repair process.
Screen subpar compared to others? That was highlighted in many reviews before the phone was on the market, so if you did not pay attention to reviews, that is yer own fault.
Plus you had time to return it after the initial purchase.... Assuming that it was purchased in a normal fashion.
And please. Not specifying an issue does not actually help. It adds to the general confusion.
Is like stating that the volume on yer tv doesn't work, without stating how, and since when it happened. Could be a "person in chair" symptom as we perceive it in the IT world....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Device is pure stock, never modified. C6603 model no vibrating. Seller claims since day 1 after a few hours (it did vibrate initially). I've seen a couple of threads on xda with same issue to no avail.
Don't know what over info to provide. It's not my phone, I'm planning to buy

@23Six
Do you have Stamina Mode on in your C6603? Try switching off, restarting phone. Also, through service menu, does the vibration work?

I'm afraid of asking the seller to do these things, fixing the phone and potentially losing out one one hell of a deal!
I'm buying the phone online. Local pickup.

Mate it is a hardware issue.. I faced this since when i opened the box. Dont waste time and ask Sony/Seller for replacement. I have already sent mine..

23Six said:
I'm afraid of asking the seller to do these things, fixing the phone and potentially losing out one one hell of a deal!
I'm buying the phone online. Local pickup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would advise you not to buy the device then. Just my 2 cents....

Is it normal that the vibration intensity rises when you press the touchscreen repeatedly ? I mean if I dial a phone number very quick, or just press one number on the dialpad I can hear the vibrator going faster, is this normal?

vibecatalin said:
Is it normal that the vibration intensity rises when you press the touchscreen repeatedly ? I mean if I dial a phone number very quick, or just press one number on the dialpad I can hear the vibrator going faster, is this normal?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm facing a problem that the vibration not working probably some times it doesn't works for a day then it works again ?? any suggestions ?

hamud.q said:
I'm facing a problem that the vibration not working probably some times it doesn't works for a day then it works again ?? any suggestions ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had similar but then realised I was being rather stupid (although you could argue the design is somewhat stupid...). Basically, when you turn the volume down all the way, there's 2 modes. If you go one click past zero volume with the rocker on the side of the phone, the phone should vibrate to let you know it's in silent and vibrate mode. However, if you click the volume down again, it shuts off all sound AND vibrations. So what I was doing is just mashing down on the volume down button and not realising I was shutting off vibrate.

Guess I'll just have to send the phone in for repair. I'll hold for now because I'm in live with this phone.
I got for an S3 trade + £0.00 !
Sent from my C6603 using xda app-developers app

Got the LCA43 update now watch dead

I was pleased to get the update, it asked that I get the charge up to 40% plus which I did and left it plugged in and proceeded. Took quite a while and then went to battery charge instead of reboot as has happened in the past.,, I did hit the power switch and it turned off, now nothing no charge indicator and no matter how long I hold the power switch nothing.. And other tips to wake this puppy up? I originally got it at Google IO.. Wonder if Google will help?

dartdog said:
I was pleased to get the update, it asked that I get the charge up to 40% plus which I did and left it plugged in and proceeded. Took quite a while and then went to battery charge instead of reboot as has happened in the past.,, I did hit the power switch and it turned off, now nothing no charge indicator and no matter how long I hold the power switch nothing.. And other tips to wake this puppy up? I originally got it at Google IO.. Wonder if Google will help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt that Google will be able to help you. Also, since its being about a year now, your watch probably doesn't have a warranty from Samsung anymore. Might still worth a try though.
See if your watch is detected by pc. I remember my watch had a glitch once. It wasn't booting up and was showing up as a device in device manager. I forgot the exact name, but it was not something you usually see when you connect in fastboot or adb mode. If it does then there might still be hope.
Try to boot your watch into fastboot mode. You need to press the power button and slide with your finger on the screen from left top corner to right bottom corner. Just slide it multiple times while holding the button. If it boots then you can either do factory reset or full reflash.

Thanks for the tips, Samsung seemed quite accommodating and gave me a return ship label,, we shall see, hoping for the best and not outrageous... Xing fingers...
aligatro2010 said:
I doubt that Google will be able to help you. Also, since its being about a year now, your watch probably doesn't have a warranty from Samsung anymore. Might still worth a try though.
See if your watch is detected by pc. I remember my watch had a glitch once. It wasn't booting up and was showing up as a device in device manager. I forgot the exact name, but it was not something you usually see when you connect in fastboot or adb mode. If it does then there might still be hope.
Try to boot your watch into fastboot mode. You need to press the power button and slide with your finger on the screen from left top corner to right bottom corner. Just slide it multiple times while holding the button. If it boots then you can either do factory reset or full reflash.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

dartdog said:
Thanks for the tips, Samsung seemed quite accommodating and gave me a return ship label,, we shall see, hoping for the best and not outrageous... Xing fingers...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If they do end up "repairing" it, you will get a brand new watch. Samsung doesn't bother re-flashing or repairing old watches, they just send you a new one. Don't include your wristband though. You'll get your old one back... unless they lose it.

watch return
They were quite insistent that I send everything, band, charger and watch,, so we'll see..
aligatro2010 said:
If they do end up "repairing" it, you will get a brand new watch. Samsung doesn't bother re-flashing or repairing old watches, they just send you a new one. Don't include your wristband though. You'll get your old one back... unless they lose it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

dartdog said:
They were quite insistent that I send everything, band, charger and watch,, so we'll see..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Must be different in your country. Here is the instructions they sent me when I was sending my watch for repairs.
Shipping Guide Line
(1) Verify above information is correct
i.e: Name, Shipping Address, Model number and Serial number etc
(2) DO NOT INCLUDE ANY ACCESSORIES. (Cables, Remote control, manuals, Battery, Drivers, toner cartridge, imaging unit, transfer belt, waste toner bin etc), unless otherwise instructed.
(3)
a) Package Properly, this is the responsibility of sender
b) Include copy of this authorization in the package.
(4) Arrange shipping with UPS courier (United Parcel Service)
a) Attach UPS waybill on outside of the package.
b) write down UPS tracking number for your records
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

I guess it falls under "unless otherwise instructed" He was quite specific.. !!I did get the same printed instructions though...

As predicted Samsung sent an invoice for $188 to "repair" obviously not worth it with the new stuff coming out and particularly insulting since the OTC SW update caused it... Does not make me happy with Samsung to say the least...

I purchased mine from Amazon and in 6 months it was dead. Samsung would not warranty it in the USA because they told me that they didnt know where amazon bought it from and therefore wanted me to find out what country it came from and then they woudl give me that country customer service #. COMPLETE BULLcrap. amazon ended up giving me a refund.

[Help] Samsung Galaxy Ace Duos Hard Brick

After I took this Samsung Galaxy Ace Duos(SCH-i589) and refreshed the GT-S5830 ROM with Odin, it became a hard brick (I did this because I installed AIDA64 Android Edition and it said gt-s5830 under "Hardware", which turned out to be purely misleading, I thought it would refresh successfully) now the phone has no reaction, no Recovery, no download mode, nothing, complete hard brick, no reaction, what should I do? : (

DavidLiang1129 said:
After I took this Samsung Galaxy Ace Duos(SCH-i589) and refreshed the GT-S5830 ROM with Odin, it became a hard brick (I did this because I installed AIDA64 Android Edition and it said gt-s5830 under "Hardware", which turned out to be purely misleading, I thought it would refresh successfully) now the phone has no reaction, no Recovery, no download mode, nothing, complete hard brick, no reaction, what should I do? : (
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the device is completely unresponsive, there is nothing you can do as an end user to fix it.
You're going to have to have it repaired or replaced.

V0latyle said:
If the device is completely unresponsive, there is nothing you can do as an end user to fix it.
You're going to have to have it repaired or replaced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply! It's not completely unresponsive, after I press the download mode shortcut for a few seconds, the screen flickers a little and then goes out, nothing happens, as if it wanted to enter download mode but failed

V0latyle said:
If the device is completely unresponsive, there is nothing you can do as an end user to fix it.
You're going to have to have it repaired or replaced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In addition I had to remove the battery and then connect the computer without the battery before this could be triggered

In addition, I tried this method, but I don't know how long to press these buttons, I keep pressing them, but the screen just keeps flashing and nothing happens

V0latyle said:
If the device is completely unresponsive, there is nothing you can do as an end user to fix it.
You're going to have to have it repaired or replaced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my friend who has a Samsung Galaxy Ace 3(GT-S7278U) also went through a hard brick like this, he told me to charge the phone, after about 24 hours, the phone will automatically go into download mode, I haven't tried it yet, I've never heard of this method (picture is my friend's phone)

V0latyle said:
If the device is completely unresponsive, there is nothing you can do as an end user to fix it.
You're going to have to have it repaired or replaced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a USB JIG from an online shopping platform because I checked the forums and the vast majority of people said that USB JIG would help, but the merchant said "this product will not help hard bricks" which confused me a little, I wanted to know the exact answer? If you or someone else can answer it, I would appreciate it! (Also, luckily, I didn't refresh the partition table. A friend of mine said that if I did, the phone would be dead.)

DavidLiang1129 said:
I bought a USB JIG from an online shopping platform because I checked the forums and the vast majority of people said that USB JIG would help, but the merchant said "this product will not help hard bricks" which confused me a little, I wanted to know the exact answer? If you or someone else can answer it, I would appreciate it! (Also, luckily, I didn't refresh the partition table. A friend of mine said that if I did, the phone would be dead.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only jig I could think of would be JTAG, and while I imagine the board does have a JTAG header, Qualcomm (and Samsung) provides a means to perform low level flashes using specialized tools such as QPST. However the tools and the files necessary are not publicly available and there is zero end user support. Most repair centers won't reflash your phone; they'll just replace the main board and program it with your IMEI.

V0latyle said:
The only jig I could think of would be JTAG, and while I imagine the board does have a JTAG header, Qualcomm (and Samsung) provides a means to perform low level flashes using specialized tools such as QPST. However the tools and the files necessary are not publicly available and there is zero end user support. Most repair centers won't reflash your phone; they'll just replace the main board and program it with your IMEI.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply. As far as I know, USB JIG comes in two varieties, one is forced to boot the device into download mode via a MicroUSB plug with 4 resistors, and the other is what you call JTAG, and I bought the former

V0latyle said:
The only jig I could think of would be JTAG, and while I imagine the board does have a JTAG header, Qualcomm (and Samsung) provides a means to perform low level flashes using specialized tools such as QPST. However the tools and the files necessary are not publicly available and there is zero end user support. Most repair centers won't reflash your phone; they'll just replace the main board and program it with your IMEI.
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USB JIG arrived today, but it didn't work... I removed the battery two seconds later, put it back on the phone, and plugged in the USB JIG, but nothing happened, I even waited five minutes, was I using it wrong? I even paid about 10 CNY(about $1.50) for it, including a 2 CNY USB JIG and 8 CNY shipping... If it's just a dust plug, it's not a good deal...) I need help. Thank you so much!

Good news, guys! Instead of using the USB JIG, I switched to a USB cable that was just on the charger of one of my old phones. I connected my battery-free Galaxy to my computer, pressed volume up + Volume Down + Power, and something magical happened: my computer made the sound of new hardware discovery! The screen lights up and displays the Samsung Logo, but it goes black after a few seconds. (I think the USB cable doesn't connect reliably, but only it works.)

DavidLiang1129 said:
Good news, guys! Instead of using the USB JIG, I switched to a USB cable that was just on the charger of one of my old phones. I connected my battery-free Galaxy to my computer, pressed volume up + Volume Down + Power, and something magical happened: my computer made the sound of new hardware discovery! The screen lights up and displays the Samsung Logo, but it goes black after a few seconds. (I think the USB cable doesn't connect reliably, but only it works.)
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Check Device Manager and see if it displays an unknown device

V0latyle said:
Check Device Manager and see if it displays an unknown device
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Thanks for your reply, on my first attempt, I didn't look for an unknown device, Windows just said "failed to install device driver" and I never succeeded again... The screen was just black, but when I plugged the phone into the computer using the USB cable, Windows said there was an unrecognized USB device. I tried several USB cables, but only that made the computer respond

V0latyle said:
The only jig I could think of would be JTAG, and while I imagine the board does have a JTAG header, Qualcomm (and Samsung) provides a means to perform low level flashes using specialized tools such as QPST. However the tools and the files necessary are not publicly available and there is zero end user support. Most repair centers won't reflash your phone; they'll just replace the main board and program it with your IMEI.
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By the way, this phone uses Qualcomm SOC. Can I remove it and short some contacts to enter 9008 mode?

DavidLiang1129 said:
By the way, this phone uses Qualcomm SOC. Can I remove it and short some contacts to enter 9008 mode?
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Not that I know of

V0latyle said:
Not that I know of
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Ok, so it doesn't seem like there's any other software-based way to recover it, thanks for all your help, but I'm still looking forward to what software-based way to recover it

DavidLiang1129 said:
Ok, so it doesn't seem like there's any other software-based way to recover it, thanks for all your help, but I'm still looking forward to what software-based way to recover it
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You can try these if you haven't already. Sometimes 3's a charm... This article indicates there are hard points present, I can't verify that as you're deeper than I ever care to go. If that option is viable you better make sure you get it right as it bypasses all built in safeguards and as I understand it could completely brick the phone for good. Might want pay a expert with lots of experience try to recover it... or learn as you go.

blackhawk said:
You can try these if you haven't already. Sometimes 3's a charm... This article indicates there are hard points present, I can't verify that as you're deeper than I ever care to go. If that option is viable you better make sure you get it right as it bypasses all built in safeguards and as I understand it could completely brick the phone for good. Might want pay a expert with lots of experience try to recover it... or learn as you go.
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Thank you!! When I followed Method 3, the phone screen flashed and Windows told me it had found an unrecognized USB device! I feel like I'm getting there!!

blackhawk said:
You can try these if you haven't already. Sometimes 3's a charm... This article indicates there are hard points present, I can't verify that as you're deeper than I ever care to go. If that option is viable you better make sure you get it right as it bypasses all built in safeguards and as I understand it could completely brick the phone for good. Might want pay a expert with lots of experience try to recover it... or learn as you go.
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What do I do next? Do I need any hardware drivers?

DavidLiang1129 said:
What do I do next? Do I need any hardware drivers?
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I haven't a clue but for Windows you need the right USB drivers. You can try the find the right driver option as well as checking Event Viewer for error messages, etc. Or more Google searches...
I purposely avoided playing with the firmware on Androids including upgrades/updates. That works well for me.