I lost my charger so just i wanted to ask: I have like tons of chargers in my house but i lost the most important one (my htc one's charger). So in case of not damaging my phone's battery which charger values should i use?
I got 3 clear options here:
1)ZTE Charger: Input:100-240 V 50/60 HZ 200 mA Output: 5.0v 700 mA
2)General Mobile Greenmate: Input: 100-240V 50/60 HZ 300 mA Output:5.0 V 2000 mA
3)Nokia Charger: Inout: 100-240V 50/60HZ 160mA Output: 5.0V 1200mA
Waiting for your answers guys...
Btw: If my english is bad but you can understand me, just ignore it...
furkey said:
I lost my charger so just i wanted to ask: I have like tons of chargers in my house but i lost the most important one (my htc one's charger). So in case of not damaging my phone's battery which charger values should i use?
I got 3 clear options here:
1)ZTE Charger: Input:100-240 V 50/60 HZ 200 mA Output: 5.0v 700 mA
2)General Mobile Greenmate: Input: 100-240V 50/60 HZ 300 mA Output:5.0 V 2000 mA
3)Nokia Charger: Inout: 100-240V 50/60HZ 160mA Output: 5.0V 1200mA
Waiting for your answers guys...
Btw: If my english is bad but you can understand me, just ignore it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well as long as its output voltage is 5V it's OK.
As for the current the official one is 500mA but you can use one with a higher value or lower.
The phone only uses what it needs so there's no real problem. Only if you go lower then 500mA the phone will charge slower.
:what: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2293205
I'm pretty sure the official one is 1A ,they'll all be fine, but I don't think any of them will be able to charge at more than 0.5A.
Here you go mate
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2
Lorinsion said:
Well as long as its output voltage is 5V it's OK.
As for the current the official one is 500mA but you can use one with a higher value or lower.
The phone only uses what it needs so there's no real problem. Only if you go lower then 500mA the phone will charge slower.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for replying on an old post guys but because this has been indexed and is high in the search engines, I feel it necessary to reply here.
Voltage is #1 but you'll be hard pressed to find a usb type adapter that isn't 5V out
Amperage, however, is another story. Best rule of thumb: The higher, the safer.
HTC one uses a 1A (1000mA) adapter, as do most phones nowadays. As others have mentioned, using a higher amperage is fine, as the adapter won't have to work as hard and causes zero harm to the phone. You can use a 1250mA, a 2A, a 5A, a 3000000A, it doesn't matter. The charger within the phone will only utilize the amount of amperage coming from the adapter that it needs.
Going lower, however, will often cause problems. I worked the T-Mobile PDA tech call center when the first android device the G1 came out. It used a 1A adapter which wasn't very common, but used a mini USB port which was very common. A famous problem I dealt with was the digitizer going schizo; registering finger presses all over the place. I figured out the common denominator was that it was plugged into a lower amperage adapter (usually for an older phone) when this happened. Sharing this with the team, we decided to ask the details of the adapter they were using whenever this problem was encountered. Sure enough, with 99% accuracy, the adapter was for another phone which was of a lower amperage. That month I did about a dozen followups myself with customers with this issue after sending them a replacement 1A charger, and the issue was resolved.
As more 1A mini-usb style phones came out, we found the trend. Whacky digitizers and drastically low battery life (full life, not charge-length) when used with lower amp adapters.
Going further, also at T-Mobile, we came out with the @home service; a VOIP service through T-Mobile (which was pretty ****ing cool but it never really took off) which used a modified Linksys router: the WRTU54G-TM. The teams involved with tech support for this system were definitely stressed on its release because it required the tech to have not just knowledge on the unit, the service, and the system... but also every single scenario of computer and network configuration out there. I was fine but my team was reprimanded incorrectly... ahh but I digress... Getting to the point: customers would get this new Linksys router and notice that the power adapter port (we called them power puckers on my team) was the exactly same style and size as their last router which was also usually a linksys. So, instead of using the adapter that came with the WRTU54-TM, they just plugged it right into the old adapter.
And then problems.
This took weeks to figure out because the issues were strange, inconsistent, and abundant. Once Clem and I figured out the trend, we blasted emails throughout the callcenter since this, for some reason, didn't reach the bureaucracy threshold of importance: No two adapters are the same (kind of). Just because the plug looks the same doesn't mean it'll work right. The voltage will probably be the same. Your positive and negative DC connections are probably safely correct based on design. BUT THE AMPERAGE
All these old routers used adapters that were a lower amperage than what the WRTU54G-TM needed. The easiest way for us to find out if there was an inappropriate adapter being used was to have the customer unplug the router, plug it back in, and then have them alert us as soon as the power light stopped blinking. The WRTU54G-TM has a very long boot-up time, but it's pretty consistent at about 60 seconds +-5sec. Anything above 70 seconds is when we'd check the adapter amperage, and 100% of the time, it was an old adapter for another product that had a lower amperage than required. We'd get them to dig up their original box, pull the real adapter out, and problem solved. Every. God. Damned. Time.
So, lesson is: NO NO NO NO LOWER AMPERAGE IS NOT OKAY. "Charging slower" is NOT the only side effect of a lower amperage adapter. However, higher amperage is totally kosher. As high as your heart desires.
Hope this helps!
Putrid186 said:
Sorry for replying on an old post guys but because this has been indexed and is high in the search engines, I feel it necessary to reply here.
Voltage is #1 but you'll be hard pressed to find a usb type adapter that isn't 5V out
Amperage, however, is another story. Best rule of thumb: The higher, the safer.
HTC one uses a 1A (1000mA) adapter, as do most phones nowadays. As others have mentioned, using a higher amperage is fine, as the adapter won't have to work as hard and causes zero harm to the phone. You can use a 1250mA, a 2A, a 5A, a 3000000A, it doesn't matter. The charger within the phone will only utilize the amount of amperage coming from the adapter that it needs.
Going lower, however, will often cause problems. I worked the T-Mobile PDA tech call center when the first android device the G1 came out. It used a 1A adapter which wasn't very common, but used a mini USB port which was very common. A famous problem I dealt with was the digitizer going schizo; registering finger presses all over the place. I figured out the common denominator was that it was plugged into a lower amperage adapter (usually for an older phone) when this happened. Sharing this with the team, we decided to ask the details of the adapter they were using whenever this problem was encountered. Sure enough, with 99% accuracy, the adapter was for another phone which was of a lower amperage. That month I did about a dozen followups myself with customers with this issue after sending them a replacement 1A charger, and the issue was resolved.
As more 1A mini-usb style phones came out, we found the trend. Whacky digitizers and drastically low battery life (full life, not charge-length) when used with lower amp adapters.
Going further, also at T-Mobile, we came out with the @home service; a VOIP service through T-Mobile (which was pretty ****ing cool but it never really took off) which used a modified Linksys router: the WRTU54G-TM. The teams involved with tech support for this system were definitely stressed on its release because it required the tech to have not just knowledge on the unit, the service, and the system... but also every single scenario of computer and network configuration out there. I was fine but my team was reprimanded incorrectly... ahh but I digress... Getting to the point: customers would get this new Linksys router and notice that the power adapter port (we called them power puckers on my team) was the exactly same style and size as their last router which was also usually a linksys. So, instead of using the adapter that came with the WRTU54-TM, they just plugged it right into the old adapter.
And then problems.
This took weeks to figure out because the issues were strange, inconsistent, and abundant. Once Clem and I figured out the trend, we blasted emails throughout the callcenter since this, for some reason, didn't reach the bureaucracy threshold of importance: No two adapters are the same (kind of). Just because the plug looks the same doesn't mean it'll work right. The voltage will probably be the same. Your positive and negative DC connections are probably safely correct based on design. BUT THE AMPERAGE
All these old routers used adapters that were a lower amperage than what the WRTU54G-TM needed. The easiest way for us to find out if there was an inappropriate adapter being used was to have the customer unplug the router, plug it back in, and then have them alert us as soon as the power light stopped blinking. The WRTU54G-TM has a very long boot-up time, but it's pretty consistent at about 60 seconds +-5sec. Anything above 70 seconds is when we'd check the adapter amperage, and 100% of the time, it was an old adapter for another product that had a lower amperage than required. We'd get them to dig up their original box, pull the real adapter out, and problem solved. Every. God. Damned. Time.
So, lesson is: NO NO NO NO LOWER AMPERAGE IS NOT OKAY. "Charging slower" is NOT the only side effect of a lower amperage adapter. However, higher amperage is totally kosher. As high as your heart desires.
Hope this helps!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, 500mA should also be fine. The phone is designed to work with MHL 1 and that is the amperage the MHL connection provides.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Related
I've bought this X1 car windscreen holder & charger off ebay...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200317246131
The holder itself is very good for the price, but I'm a bit nervous about using the charger as it's not genuine SE.
It is CE marked, but it says its output is 5.0V=2A, whereas the output of my SE wall charger is 5.0V=700mA.
Is it safe to use?
you should be good. its the voltage rating that is important and not the so much as the amps.
i wish i can give you the technical as to why right now but i just cant remember all the details. i think your phone can draw in or pull in its rated amps. if your phone charger that you bought is rated at 2 amps, your phone can only draw in its max rated amps (700ma) and your charge time will be lower than that of a charger rated at 5 volts, 500ma.
if you did have a charger that was rated at 5 volts, 500ma, then your phone can draw in only the max that the charger can put out and will tend to overwork the charger thats rated lower and have a longer charge time.
Thanks for your reply
So even though the charger can supply up to 2A, the phone will only take the 700mA it needs?
Just out of curiosity, can anyone with a genuine SE car charger tell me what output it supplies?
BUT, charging that fast isn't the best thing to do for your batterly lifetime. Slower charging == longer battery life.
Though, same goes for the normal wall socket charger from SE.
Legaspi is right, the phone will only pull as many amps as it needs and can take, no more.
Well, I'll only be using it occasionally when I'm at a few car shows over summer. So it should be safe enough.
Cheers guys
amps are not pushed but drawn
amps is the max the charger can provide
before it get pressured and lover the volts
you could use a 5volt 10000MegaAmp charger
and the device would only draw the amps the device
was made to draw all the rest of the amps would stay
at your electricity company
ohms law state Amps == volts / residence
Rudegar said:
amps are not pushed but drawn
ohms law state Amps == volts / residence
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In other English:
P = VI, where
P = Power of device (watts) and is fixed
V = Voltage used by device (volts) and is fixed
I = Current (amps) and is decided by P/V (a fixed ratio)
So the device cannot draw more current than the fixed ratio. It may draw less current if the charger cannot supply the highest amount, but then as in one of the above posts, it simply takes longer to recharge.
With these devices, milliWatts/miliAmps are the scale, 5V is generally the fixed Potential Difference.
Used in a vehicle, the device is generally both drawing and expending energy (ie. charging and running say, GPS) simultaneously. This in/out situation when prolonged is the cause of the observed overheating with the original X1 battery.
i use a HTC car charger with my SEX1, it works flawlessly
I handmade two 12->5V converters (first with LM7805, second - with LM2678 regulator).
Both are OK, but I'm thinking about two stage regulation with radiators (LM7809/7805) or 5W DC2DC converter now...
Cheap car $5 5V USB converters usually use LM7805 without any radiators. So 500mA+ are hardly achievable.
hello , i just bought an genuine htc car charger for my xperia with the following carac : 5V - 2A
so don't worry , it's normal to have a more powerfull charger because when you will use X1 like GPS, he will need more power than a simple charge
Hi guys,
first of all, thank you for the great forum, with lots of useful information and application for my xperia.
I would kindly ask someone with an original car charger (CLA-70) to post its specifications here (volts, amps output).
I have a car (usb) charger from a BT GPS device that has a 5V,1000 mA output and I am not sure if it will suit my xperia. I need the car charger for use of navigation software, which consumes a lot of battery power.
Thank you for any replay!
i believe it's safe to use. I have a handmade 12-to-5V converter with 3000mA possible output and for over two months have no problems with X1i.
But Xperia will not use all your 1000mA. About a half or so at maximum. No 15 minutes charge possible...
I have done in many times. It is safe.
Don't worry!
I use the Kensington 4-in-1 car charger for iPod.
http://us.kensington.com/html/11205.html
Ratings are 5V and 500mA. It manages to charge my iPod, my X1, and my Plantronics Voyager 510 Bluetooth headset. Same charger, three cables, one Case Logic pocket, and everything becomes under your control!
ianl8888 said:
In other English:
P = VI, where
P = Power of device (watts) and is fixed
V = Voltage used by device (volts) and is fixed
I = Current (amps) and is decided by P/V (a fixed ratio)
So the device cannot draw more current than the fixed ratio. It may draw less current if the charger cannot supply the highest amount, but then as in one of the above posts, it simply takes longer to recharge.
With these devices, milliWatts/miliAmps are the scale, 5V is generally the fixed Potential Difference.
Used in a vehicle, the device is generally both drawing and expending energy (ie. charging and running say, GPS) simultaneously. This in/out situation when prolonged is the cause of the observed overheating with the original X1 battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, no, no! Voltage is not fixed.
This is a variable controlled by the source. If you connect a device to a 3V battery, it is different from when you connect it to a 12V battery, yes? Your flashlight or torch battery will not start your car. But your car battery can and will burn your torch bulb. Therefore, it is important to always connect a battery, or in this case a charger, of the specified voltage, otherwise you will fry your phone.
P=V * I.
The higher the voltage, the higher the power.
For example: Your American 110V TV will not work in Europe, where the voltage is 220V. It will fry!
Imdking said:
No, no, no! Voltage is not fixed.
....
For example: Your American 110V TV will not work in Europe, where the voltage is 220V. It will fry!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Depends on many things. FOA it depends on the type of PSU used in your TV.
Same correct for car converters. Be aware that during average driving your supposed to be 12V are really above 13V. May be even 14.5V.
What I'd not recommend is to buy cheap chinese converters based on 7805 chip. You cannot make it small, the radiator must be a half the size of Xperia itself. No radiator means a sub-100mA current at best.
Better to use something based on LM2678 chip.
sms2000 said:
Depends on many things. FOA it depends on the type of PSU used in your TV.
Same correct for car converters. Be aware that during average driving your supposed to be 12V are really above 13V. May be even 14.5V.
What I'd not recommend is to buy cheap chinese converters based on 7805 chip. You cannot make it small, the radiator must be a half the size of Xperia itself. No radiator means a sub-100mA current at best.
Better to use something based on LM2678 chip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course there are sophisticated appliances that allow for different voltage sources. I, for example, buy household appliances that are "multi-national". Like many international students that go to school overseas and take TV's and Hi-Fi's back to their home countries after completing studies. These have power supplies that that can be set to 110v or 220v. Now with techonology advancement, some gadgets will auto detect and automatically switch transformers as needed. The regular TV designed for use in America at 110v will not work in Botswana.
But the principle still stands.
P = V * I.
The higher the voltage, the higher the power! So what when I open the control panel and measure the voltage on a dc power supply it shows 23v instead of the specified 24. No big deal. But if it shows 48v instead of 24, then we've got a problem. The car battery is actually 14.4v. That is not the point!
Do not use a higher voltage source than specified. That some appliances are designed to take fluctuations and slight variances goes without saying. But all within reason. So, if your camera says use a 3v battery, don't use a 9v battery because sms2000 said it "depends".
I have experience with micro amps and other electrical devices.. I have two chargers a generic 5V 1A and a Motorola 5V 550mA. I just bought a desktop charger. The input is 5.2 600 mA and the output is 4.2 250mA. I use to have a batter application for my xperia and it would read 3.9V on the battery. will my chargers work ok. I am thinking to use the 1A charger on the phone and the 550mA on the desktop charger.
I should have read this before but the other day i got from a street seller a car charger, having seen him selling both 1000 and 450 mamp chargers, i got that 450, becuase i knew my phone charger was 700 mamp, i only need it when i use the phone as gps, not always.... but i didn't try it yet ... thanks
science
For cryin' out loud, I'm tired of watching my battery drain while plugged into the supplied USB charger. It's ridiculous. I've never owned a portable device that discharged under normal use when plugged into its supplied AC adapter. If I want to spend 15 hours a day playing Angry Birds, it should be possible when I have a power source which is virtually unlimited. Twice, I've started the day with a full battery, had the device plugged in to the supplied 2 amp charger all day, and had <10% left on the battery when I went to bed. (No, I don't actually play Angry Birds for more than a few minutes at a time but I do use the device a lot.)
jtown said:
For cryin' out loud, I'm tired of watching my battery drain while plugged into the supplied USB charger. It's ridiculous. I've never owned a portable device that discharged under normal use when plugged into its supplied AC adapter. If I want to spend 15 hours a day playing Angry Birds, it should be possible when I have a power source which is virtually unlimited. Twice, I've started the day with a full battery, had the device plugged in to the supplied 2 amp charger all day, and had <10% left on the battery when I went to bed. (No, I don't actually play Angry Birds for more than a few minutes at a time but I do use the device a lot.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have that problem. You do know that your device will wait till it drops some percentage before it starts charging again. It won't keep it at 100% the whole time... Is meant to conserve your battery life
smartadmin said:
I don't have that problem. You do know that your device will wait till it drops some percentage before it starts charging again. It won't keep it at 100% the whole time... Is meant to conserve your battery life
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's pretend I've got just a little experience with portable devices. The standard is to float between 95 and 100% charge and just call it "charged" once it's bounced off 100% the first time.
Here's a test you can do that requires no time on your part. Set it up to play a long movie while it's plugged in. Look at the charge level after it's been going for a couple of hours. And you don't have to take my word for it. I'm hardly the only person complaining that the supplied charger is not capable of keeping up with the device's power requirements.
If you are seeing power drop during normal use while plugged in I'd talk to Google. You may have a defective unit. Mine doesn't do that and I regularly see 20+ hour days with normal use unplugged and usually with some video, browsing, games etc.
Take note off when you see the drop, how much you lose over a given amount off time and call Google and see if this is expected. I'm sure they will help. They have been very responsive when I've called.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk 2
groaner said:
If you are seeing power drop during normal use while plugged in I'd talk to Google. You may have a defective unit. Mine doesn't do that and I regularly see 20+ hour days with normal use unplugged and usually with some video, browsing, games etc.
Take note off when you see the drop, how much you lose over a given amount off time and call Google and see if this is expected. I'm sure they will help. They have been very responsive when I've called.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will watch like 1 hour of Streaming Vid's and loose like 4-5% while plugged in.
100% brightness causes my device to use more power then what's being supplied from the wall charger, and a few other people have confirmed similar incidents as well.
Max your brightness, and then go play a 3D game, while being plugged into the wall charger, and watch the percentage drop still
My tablet lasts a few days at least before needing a charge. I plug it in over night and it charges to full. I couldn't be more happier with it considering it is not self-sufficient.
Mine drops a few % per hour in use with the stock charger connected. Brightness at 50%, WiFi on, BT off. I'm not going to whine about it, but its the only thing that's not great with this tab.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using XDA Premium HD app
Why do everyone seems to think that the POGO-charger would be able to charge the Nexus faster?
I've read on an Ipad forum that about 10-15 hours charging are normal (the Ipad 4 has a 42,5Wh battery), and their chargers give as much Watt as our Nexus chargers.
One thing is clear, you can't increase the voltage. That would kill your Nexus right away.
My Samsung charger I recieved with my Nexus 10 says 5V out and 2A.
5*2= 10W.
Isn't that the same rates that other tabs have, even if they got special chargers?
So, the only thing the POGO-charger could raise, is the amount of current.
Even if you had a 10A charger, if the Nexus cant use more than 2A, it wouldn't get anymore amps than 2.
If the kernel on the Nexus doesn't support any higher charger rates, then you cant change anything.
There is a reason why the manufacturers have set 5V as standard - to make it work together with USB.
Battery Specs: Samsung Li-Ion 3.75V 22.75Wh 9000 mah.
So, it's easy. If you had a 1W charger, it would take 22,75 hours to get a fully charged battery.
In theory, it should take 2,75 hours to fully charge the Nexus 10 battery, but we don't turn it off, we use it while charging, it uses background sync and I dont know what the efficiency rating is on the charger or the Nexus.
You know you could feel some heat on the back of the Nexus 10 after some usage?
That's some of the battery's energy that spoils into heat, meaning that there are power losses.
It's normal though, we don't have anything yet on earth that could convert 100% energy from one form to another.
You could compare it to a car, you need a cooler-system to remove the excessive heat from the engine.
Even if your Nexus is far more efficient.
Olaeli said:
Why do everyone seems to think that the POGO-charger would be able to charge the Nexus faster?
I've read on an Ipad forum that about 10-15 hours charging are normal (the Ipad 4 has a 42,5Wh battery), and their chargers give as much Watt as our Nexus chargers.
One thing is clear, you can't increase the voltage. That would kill your Nexus right away.
My Samsung charger I recieved with my Nexus 10 says 5V out and 2A.
So, the only thing the POGO-charger could raise, is the amount of current.
Even if you had a 10A charger, if the Nexus cant use more than 2A, it wouldn't get anymore amps than 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please do not speculate about how much current can go through the pogo connection. Speculation is worthless and helps nobody. The fact that the included charger only puts out 2 amps probably has to do with limitations of the USB connection. But I'm speculating. See how pointless that is? The fact that one connection is limited to 2 amps doesn't mean all power connections are limited to 2 amps.
And where did I say anything about increasing the voltage? I'm not an idiot and didn't suggest such a stupid thing.
As for temperature, that can easily be monitored during charging and the current can be reduced if it gets too high. You are aware that there is a temperature sensor for the battery, right?
None of which has a darn thing to do with my opinion that it's unacceptable to produce a device that uses more power than it can get from its AC adapter. If there really is no way to run the Nexus 10 at full tilt without supplementing the AC adapter with battery power, Samsung should have addressed that problem before going into production with this unit. This isn't a $150 entry level device. It's the Android flagship.
Olaeli said:
Why do everyone seems to think that the POGO-charger would be able to charge the Nexus faster?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A person that supposedly has said charger mentioned that it seemed to charge faster.
jtown said:
Please do not speculate about how much current can go through the pogo connection. Speculation is worthless and helps nobody. The fact that the included charger only puts out 2 amps probably has to do with limitations of the USB connection. But I'm speculating. See how pointless that is? The fact that one connection is limited to 2 amps doesn't mean all power connections are limited to 2 amps.
And where did I say anything about increasing the voltage? I'm not an idiot and didn't suggest such a stupid thing.
As for temperature, that can easily be monitored during charging and the current can be reduced if it gets too high. You are aware that there is a temperature sensor for the battery, right?
None of which has a darn thing to do with my opinion that it's unacceptable to produce a device that uses more power than it can get from its AC adapter. If there really is no way to run the Nexus 10 at full tilt without supplementing the AC adapter with battery power, Samsung should have addressed that problem before going into production with this unit. This isn't a $150 entry level device. It's the Android flagship.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please, you started speculating about a high-current POGO-charger that doesn't exist.
Sure, you didn't mention the voltage, but I ve seen comments about it before, so I just wanted to make it clear.
And I didn't say the temperature was a problem either, just that it lowers the efficiency of the charger and the device.
Samsung maybe didn't know there was a charging problem.
We've seen examples before that manufacturers don't test their products enough.
(ASUS Transformer with encased aluminum body, anyone?)
And I know, this is supposed to be a flagship, but what everyone forgets is that it's much cheaper than other brands.
I was looking forward to buy a ASUS TF700 with keyboard at almost twice the price as the Nexus 10 before I read about the Nexus.
Even if it doesn't justify the charging problem, you could try to adapt to the circumstances until there's a solution.
When I'm low on battery, I let the device charge and do something else for a change.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using xda app-developers app
Edit: If you look at the pictures of the POGO-charger that's across the internet, the charger is still only 5V, 2A.
Olaeli said:
Please, you started speculating about a high-current POGO-charger that doesn't exist.
Sure, you didn't mention the voltage, but I ve seen comments about it before, so I just wanted to make it clear.
And I didn't say the temperature was a problem either, just that it lowers the efficiency of the charger and the device.
Samsung maybe didn't know there was a charging problem.
We've seen examples before that manufacturers don't test their products enough.
(ASUS Transformer with encased aluminum body, anyone?)
And I know, this is supposed to be a flagship, but what everyone forgets is that it's much cheaper than other brands.
I was looking forward to buy a ASUS TF700 with keyboard at almost twice the price as the Nexus 10 before I read about the Nexus.
Even if it doesn't justify the charging problem, you could try to adapt to the circumstances until there's a solution.
When I'm low on battery, I let the device charge and do something else for a change.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using xda app-developers app
Edit: If you look at the pictures of the POGO-charger that's across the internet, the charger is still only 5V, 2A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a nexus 10, nexus7, and a Tf700. I am noticing slightly faster charging on the n10 using the Tf700 ac adapter. The same is true when trying to charge my tf700. The stock samsung n10 ac adapter charges it slower than the asus transformer adapter. The same is true with my nexus 7 adapter. Ive used the n7 adapter to charge my tf700 and it was not as quick a charge. Meanwhile all 3 units are rated for 5v 2amp.
Olaeli said:
We've seen examples before that manufacturers don't test their products enough.
(ASUS Transformer with encased aluminum body, anyone?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wonder what all they did test if they somehow managed to miss that...
joe1l said:
I have a nexus 10, nexus7, and a Tf700. I am noticing slightly faster charging on the n10 using the Tf700 ac adapter. The same is true when trying to charge my tf700. The stock samsung n10 ac adapter charges it slower than the asus transformer adapter. The same is true with my nexus 7 adapter. Ive used the n7 adapter to charge my tf700 and it was not as quick a charge. Meanwhile all 3 units are rated for 5v 2amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could be possible the N10 charger isn't actually putting out 2A? Might need a multimeter or something to verify for sure though...
I am currently out of town so keep in mind I didn't have a chance to dig too deep but I've given the kernel a quick look through.
There is no such thing as the "high current pogo charger." The pogo pins accept 2A max and appears to be ~5V. The USB connector has the same limits.
I also took a look at the current at the battery to make sure the charger was being detected correctly. My 1A Samsung non-Nexus 10 charger seems to supply ~900ma to the battery which is as much as you should expect out of a 1A charger. My Nexus 10 charger supplies ~1600ma to the battery. This number seems slightly low but at least indicates the charger is detected correctly.
*If* the pogo charger does indeed charge faster, it will likely be because the pogo charger is able to supply some current that is asymptotically closer to 2A. In other words, it will not charger much faster than the USB charger.
On the other hand, the pogo charger will still be nice to have as it will allow simultaneous usage of USB OTG and charging.
Like I said before, I was unable to dig very deep because I'm out of town and browsing sysfs and kernel source on a tablet isn't the best experience. So, the info I found might not be 100% correct.
dalingrin said:
There is no such thing as the "high current pogo charger." The pogo pins accept 2A max and appears to be ~5V.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please show some proof/references for this statement.
Valynor said:
Please show some proof/references for this statement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are many indicators throughout the kernel but for brevity I'll post what I think is the most concise.
https://github.com/CyanogenMod/andr...ng/arch/arm/mach-exynos/board-manta-battery.c
Line 773-776
Sets the current to 500ma if USB is detected on the pogo or 2A if AC is detected.
Well if you're reading 1600ma using the standard ac adapter that comes with the N10 and possibly closer to 2000ma (say 1900ma) using the pogo, then that is 1/5 faster charging. In terms of time that is quite a saving.
Of course, that is all speculation
USB current limits
I thought I'd post this as information I found while doing a spot of light reading
The current specification of a USB 2.0 port can be a maximum of 1.8A. Within Constraints.
"Battery Charging Specification 1.1: Released in March 2007.
A usb charging port places a termination resistance between D+ and D- to allow the maximum 1.8A", meaning that at this current, there can be no data transmission.
This appears to be increased for USB 3.0 standard.
"Battery Charging Specification 1.2: Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A."
citations come from documents here:
http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs
As POGO pins do not have to follow any specification the only limit is the current the board & charging circuit can handle.
Look at the specs on the wall plug in unit. It's not a charger it's a 5V power supply and the charger is inside the N10. However the charger is setup determines the charging rate. Like mentioned above, it may not matter if you "could" use a 10A at 5V power supply.
Here goes.....
I've been struggling with charging this phone. I have both the Sprint and the T-Mobile versions and I'm seeing the exact same thing with both. This phone simply won't pull more than roughly 600ma from a charger. With the best of equipment (chargers, cables, clean regulated power, etc etc) a ~600ma (+/- 15ma) is all I ever see at max draw.
I've tried all sorts of chargers including several stock. Same for cables. I know some cables are crappier than others and can restrict current....those that I found did that were tossed in the trash (don't want to keep the fubar cables anyway).
The phones have been in various states of operation too....from one extreme to the other....under heavy benchmark load to "first run" state from a complete reset (full wipe) with airplane mode on.
I said I have a "problem" above. What I mean is that my use-case is such that I use navigation with bluetooth streaming for podcast listening during my commute to and from work everyday. While I'm at work I plug into my TV to playback video podcasts via MHL. At best.....BEST....I can maintain my current state of battery. In other words, if I'm 39%, it'll stay thereabout when I'm plugged into a charger in either case.
No..."Power Saver" doesn't help. What I think would actually help is if power saver had the ability to disable some cores in addition to just governing to 1.1Ghz across all four.
To have a kickass phone that you really honestly can't truly kick ass with feels weird. This thing simply discharges faster than it can charge under any real world load. Maybe my personal use case is unconventional but I feel like it's not THAT unconventional seeing as that the features I use wouldn't be built in if no one ever used them, ya know?
I first noticed this behavior with my previous phone, the EVO 4G LTE. Even though the behavior was there, it wasn't as bad or noticeable due to what I think is the fact it was only dual core...maybe other factors too. But I'm not a developer/engineer so my observations are only from the outside looking in.
I know I can "tweak" my behaviors -- "...do this, or do that. Disable this, or disable that." I understand these things. But having to disable a bunch of things sorta goes against the idea of having this device in the first place.
At the end of day, my observations are my own and I know some are going to suggest I'm "holding it wrong" or whatever, but you guys gotta admit there's something up here with the very limited charge rate.
All that said, I still enjoy the phone. :angel:
PS - I've been using this to monitor current/voltage. The tool has been verified to be working properly by two EE's at my work.
http://www.amazon.com/Micro-SATA-Cables-Voltage-Current/dp/B005Z1E3IY
The stock charger. How much does that one show it pulls?
Because I have a 1a charger for my car and I can have the screen on the entire time and it charges, slower, but it charges.
Felnarion said:
The stock charger. How much does that one show it pulls?
Because I have a 1a charger for my car and I can have the screen on the entire time and it charges, slower, but it charges.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same same.....doesn't matter the charger capability. Peak draw at any one time seems to be roughly 600ma...+/-. As the charge of the phone gets closer to full, the rate tapers off to roughly 200ma and then to about 80ma as it gets really really close.
I know HTC is trying to protect the battery, but I really get the feeling that this is way over-protective.
I took a picture with my Sprint ONE of my T-Mobile ONE on a 2.1amp wall charger. Notice, at roughly 1/2 charge, it's only pulling about 600ma. Too daggon slow in my opinion.
dougxd said:
Same same.....doesn't matter the charger capability. Peak draw at any one time seems to be roughly 600ma...+/-. As the charge of the phone gets closer to full, the rate tapers off to roughly 200ma and then to about 80ma as it gets really really close.
I know HTC is trying to protect the battery, but I really get the feeling that this is way over-protective.
I took a picture with my Sprint ONE of my T-Mobile ONE on a 2.1amp wall charger. Notice, at roughly 1/2 charge, it's only pulling about 600ma. Too daggon slow in my opinion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume you mean a 2.1a charger from a Samsung product, that won't work. Samsung uses some signaling on the D+/D- wires to show "This is a Samsung product, charge at 2.1a"
HTC One does not have the ability to offer this signaling and thus will charge at usb rates of 500-600.
Some products short the data wires of the USB to signal that it can supply extra power. This is the type of signaling the HTC One can use. You would need a charger with this capability.
If you don't mind, if you could take a picture of the same setup with the stock charger, that would help.
EDIT: This particular device you've linked seems to block any signaling, according to the reviews on Amazon. I think your problem may lie there.
Felnarion said:
I assume you mean a 2.1a charger from a Samsung product, that won't work. Samsung uses some signaling on the D+/D- wires to show "This is a Samsung product, charge at 2.1a"
HTC One does not have the ability to offer this signaling and thus will charge at usb rates of 500-600.
Some products short the data wires of the USB to signal that it can supply extra power. This is the type of signaling the HTC One can use. You would need a charger with this capability.
If you don't mind, if you could take a picture of the same setup with the stock charger, that would help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand what you mean. Note that in all my rambling on about various cables and chargers, if I wasn't explicit, I was implicit in that I've tried HTC stock gear too. Same results, no matter.
I do own and did try a few Samsung chargers and cables in addition to the myriad of others. I'm aware of Samsung's irritating attempts to lock people into using their accessories, thus the signaling modifications, but wanted to try them anyway. That's why I used a whole bunch of different chargers and cables. Some are not-so-good and others are great. The one charger I prefer is from VENTEV. It's a dual-port 4.2amp (2.1/per) wallwart.
http://www.amazon.com/Ventev-Wall-Charger-Dual-2-1A/dp/B00BEJSRDI
What I'm saying overall is that the big picture here suggests that we can't pull more than the peak 600ma or so charge rate, no matter what combination of doo-dads you toss at the phone. I'm all in if HTC has some super-secret special vapor rub one can use to charge faster, but even the stock charger they give us in the box which supports 1AMP doesn't deliver that since the phone itself doesn't pull more than what I've seen.
In the attached pics, the one of the charger is the Ventev. The other three show my T-mobile ONE just hit 90% charge and the rate has dipped to about 400ma on average. I took three snaps to show that it does fluctuate a bit. It'll ramp down more at about 95% or so and even more at 99%...................ALL of which is to be expected, I know.
To be clear, at this point, and what you see in these pics, is the stock HTC wall charger that we all get in the box with the phone, the stock HTC microUSB cable, and the measuring tool that is plugged into charger which the cable is then plugged into to then charge the phone. The meter can handle just over 2amps before it pops the internal fuse.
-Doug, KG3EK
dougxd said:
I understand what you mean. Note that in all my rambling on about various cables and chargers, if I wasn't explicit, I was implicit in that I've tried HTC stock gear too. Same results, no matter.
I do own and did try a few Samsung chargers and cables in addition to the myriad of others. I'm aware of Samsung's irritating attempts to lock people into using their accessories, thus the signaling modifications, but wanted to try them anyway. That's why I used a whole bunch of different chargers and cables. Some are not-so-good and others are great. The one charger I prefer is from VENTEV. It's a dual-port 4.2amp (2.1/per) wallwart.
http://www.amazon.com/Ventev-Wall-Charger-Dual-2-1A/dp/B00BEJSRDI
What I'm saying overall is that the big picture here suggests that we can't pull more than the peak 600ma or so charge rate, no matter what combination of doo-dads you toss at the phone. I'm all in if HTC has some super-secret special vapor rub one can use to charge faster, but even the stock charger they give us in the box which supports 1AMP doesn't deliver that since the phone itself doesn't pull more than what I've seen.
In the attached pics, the one of the charger is the Ventev. The other three show my T-mobile ONE just hit 90% charge and the rate has dipped to about 400ma on average. I took three snaps to show that it does fluctuate a bit. It'll ramp down more at about 95% or so and even more at 99%...................ALL of which is to be expected, I know.
To be clear, at this point, and what you see in these pics, is the stock HTC wall charger that we all get in the box with the phone, the stock HTC microUSB cable, and the measuring tool that is plugged into charger which the cable is then plugged into to then charge the phone. The meter can handle just over 2amps before it pops the internal fuse.
-Doug, KG3EK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was directed here from another section of the forum. Have you tried using this?
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw
With the stock charger it's telling me that I'm pulling in just under 950mA during peak charging and tapering off as it gets full.
i used a samsung 0,7C charger and it charges at a conntat +800 mah
the HTC chargers also sometime speaks a 900mah + but typically aroung 200 - 700 mah +
it seesm t fluctuate more often than the samsung which fluctuates to a lwoer range when bnearing 100% charge.
Dude, I have the same problem with my EVO LTE, exactly as you describe it, but for some weird reason, my car charger charges my phone normally while other chargers will take several hours to fully charge. I really hope it's a problem with the chargers and not our phones :thumbup: :thumbdown:
Sent from my EVO
Hi. So based on what people have posted, does this mean that there isn't much difference charging it from the wall socket and from a usb port in a computer? Since then charging rate is around 700-600mah and a usb charges at around 500mah
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4 Beta
http://androidcommunity.com/htc-one-doesnt-support-qualcomm-quick-charge-20130509/
So I download that app, and no matter what I do with my settings, I cannot get my phone to charger faster than about 550mAh. I am currently running at 384MHz CPU, 200MHz GPU, and Force Charge (On/Off), and 50mV undervolt. With the phone just laying there (screen on 65% battery), as I stare it currently saying +529mA (+23.00% /h).
I just tried playing a game, with those same exact settings and it stated charging at +217mah.
Edit: Was redirected here and didn't notice it was an old topic. sorry for reviving?
Hi,
Does anyone know why it is such a god damn crapshoot for charging speeds on the galaxy note 2 (or any samsung device for that matter).'
You buy a charger rated for 2amps and you never know what it will give you.
You buy a USB micro cable and get anywhere between 0.4amps and 1.6amps.
What is the criteria that the phone is using to determine how many amps to pull from the charger? How does it even know what gauge of wire it is? Is there some sort of resistance check?
I have a Galaxy Note 10.1 and that is even more particular than the GN2. With most aftermarket chargers, it absolutely refuses to charge. I've had so much trouble finding a charger for it I've just stopped using the tablet since I only have one working charger for it.
It really sucks spending anywhere between $2-$30 dollars on a charger and not knowing if it will work. My success rate has been less than 10%.
I try to do forum and google searches, but all I seem to find are comments like "I bought this charger. Seems to work." With no detailed information on what performance they are getting out of it.
This is really turning me off samsung products. I don't have this problem with my HTC or LG android devices.
I don't know why you have problems, I have 2 samsung devices (phones) and I chare them with their original chargers, charger from Nexus 7 and my old charger from Desire HD and all work just fine... ofcourse, the original one is the fastest, since it is 2A, HTC one is 750mA and Ativ S one is 500mA, N7 one is 1A....
dalanik said:
I don't know why you have problems,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You kind of answer this for yourself, as follows:
dalanik said:
I have 2 samsung devices (phones) and I chare them with their original chargers, charger from Nexus 7 and my old charger from Desire HD and all work just fine... ofcourse, the original one is the fastest, since it is 2A, HTC one is 750mA and Ativ S one is 500mA, N7 one is 1A....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your stock charger is 2A. (about 1.5-2 hours to charge)
Your HTC charger is 750mA (about 4-5 hours to charge)
Your ATV charger is 500mA (no better than a computer port. 6-8 hours to charge)
This was my point. This IS my problem. Obviously the stock charger works at 2A, but with any other charger it is anyones guess as to what speeds you're going to get out of it. Even when they are specified to work at 2A, you are likely not going to get 2A out of it. The phone is so bloody fickle.
If there was some benchmark or specific set of criteria I could use when I purchase a new charger to know for certain if it will charge at 2A, then that would mitigate some of the problem at least. But right now, there is none as far as I can tell. When I purchase a charger, I literally have no idea if it will run at 2A with this phone.
I'm glad that you're not bothered by the slow charging speeds and are happy with <1A. I'm sure this works well for most people. It doesn't for me. I push my phone to the max (as I have every right to) and need a charger that can keep up.
Well, charging slowly is different to what you say i.e. "refusing to charge at all" etc. And of course I don't use Ativ's charger to charge N2 often, it would take ages But I use HTC's charger that is 750mA and it charges within 2 hours which is OK.
Anyways, the only solution for you is to buy BRANDED charger from a company you can trust not some cheap chinese, t should work just fine whether it gives 2A or 1.9A is really no big difference.
dalanik said:
Well, charging slowly is different to what you say i.e. "refusing to charge at all" etc. And of course I don't use Ativ's charger to charge N2 often, it would take ages But I use HTC's charger that is 750mA and it charges within 2 hours which is OK.
Anyways, the only solution for you is to buy BRANDED charger from a company you can trust not some cheap chinese, t should work just fine whether it gives 2A or 1.9A is really no big difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, there are chargers that refuse to work. Especially with the Galaxy Note 10.1.
Cheap ebay chargers are a crapshoot, that much goes without saying. But there are many brand-name chargers that don't work at full speed, despite being rated for 2A.
Its not so much a charger thing as a samsung thing. While I'm not able to find specific criteria as to how/why the phone decides to charge at the speed it does (which is really the only question I had with this thread), I can tell you that there are many brand name products (monoprice, anker, ngear, etc) that are rated for 2A, but will not run at 2A with the samsung. They will usually run at 2A with other products though.
The more research I do, the more I highly suspect that this is a case of Samsung propriety. It looks like that they are deliberately throttling aftermarket chargers to force you to buy their overpriced samsung chargers. As I understand it, it has something to do with creating a voltage divider between two of the contacts, but every diagram I find shows a different wiring scheme. This would indicate that no one really knows for sure.
The one and ONLY question I have with this thread is to find out what criteria the N7100 uses to determine how much amperage to draw. I remain confident that no one will answer this question because it seems no one knows.
For the Note 2: there is a way to get a simple measurement of how much current is being pulled. Refer to this thread for the apk and more info.
alpha-niner64 said:
For the Note 2: there is a way to get a simple measurement of how much current is being pulled. Refer to this thread for the apk and more info.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting this. I suppose I should have mentioned that I have this app already and it is incredibly useful. I also have this, which with only a few bizarre exceptions, reports the same as the app.
The more people who are aware of this app, the better. People who think that their aftermarket charger "works fine for me" are probably unaware of how much those chargers are under-performing.
I don't have the education to explain your situation your situation well. But it boils down the electrical engineering the the physics of electricity.
There are quite a few variables that all effect the charging of devices. First thing is what does the device require for charge input, which is both amps and voltage. For whatever reason, quite a few tablets require 15 volts versus 5, which is what most mobile phones need. I have this same issue with my ASUS Transformer Infinity pad. It requires 2.0amps with 15 volts. I have a Galaxy Note II with needs 2.0amps with 5 volts. Unfortunately, when I use my phone charger with the tablet, it puts out enough to trigger a charger is plugged in (turns on tablet if it is off), but not enough to trigger there is actual charging. It does charge it, but it's a trickle charge; basically if it using while plugged in, it only slows the battery depletion rate.
As for the charge output, now you're getting into build quality, resistance of the components of the charger itself and the USB cable being used.
And then depending the device, the pins used on the USB cable can have an effect too. This mostly occurs with tablets or proprietary cables because the pins may tell the hardware what kind of charger is being used, which may have built in limits for charging.
Hopefully that helps some.
lovekeiiy said:
I don't have the education to explain your situation your situation well. But it boils down the electrical engineering the the physics of electricity.
There are quite a few variables that all effect the charging of devices. First thing is what does the device require for charge input, which is both amps and voltage. For whatever reason, quite a few tablets require 15 volts versus 5, which is what most mobile phones need. I have this same issue with my ASUS Transformer Infinity pad. It requires 2.0amps with 15 volts. I have a Galaxy Note II with needs 2.0amps with 5 volts. Unfortunately, when I use my phone charger with the tablet, it puts out enough to trigger a charger is plugged in (turns on tablet if it is off), but not enough to trigger there is actual charging. It does charge it, but it's a trickle charge; basically if it using while plugged in, it only slows the battery depletion rate.
As for the charge output, now you're getting into build quality, resistance of the components of the charger itself and the USB cable being used.
And then depending the device, the pins used on the USB cable can have an effect too. This mostly occurs with tablets or proprietary cables because the pins may tell the hardware what kind of charger is being used, which may have built in limits for charging.
Hopefully that helps some.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That last part is correct. I actually know enough about electrical circuits to be pretty sure it is the phone deciding how much power to pull.
Ohms law states that the amperage of a circuit is the voltage of the circuit devided by the resistance (in ohms).
USB circuits are almost universally 5 volts. I remember reading somewhere that a phone has a potentiometer that protects it from circuits of incorrect voltage, up to a certain amount. This is probably why you can get away with sticking a 15V charger onto your phone and not blowing it up. You cannot depend on this however. Generally, you do not want to stick a charger into your device that is a different voltage rating than what the charger is rated for.
The charger decides the voltage, using an internal device that changes AC voltage (120VAC if youre american) to 5VDC (USB) or whatever your device needs. This device is called a rectifier.
As stated above, the charger decides the voltage. The battery determines the resistance*, therefore the amperage is the natural result of deviding the voltage by the resistance.
*Resistance is added to the circuit by the wire and the charger itself, but is usually inconsequential.
When a charger says that it is rated for a certain amperage, that means that it is the maximum amount of current that thr internal components can handle safely, without running the risk of earth-shattering kabooms (fire). If the circuit you have connected to your charger contains too little resistance, you will increase the amperage (ohms law, as stated above), and you may end up with a piece of charcoal where your charger used to be.
Thr fact that the samaung phones can change the amperage of a charging circuit so fickly must mean the phone is capable of changing its resistance. So the question becomes, what criteria is it using to determine when to change the resistancr and to what?
-PW
This may be the longest thing ive ever typed on my phone.
I'm not disagreeing since, as you said, the mobile device manufactures have build in some safe guards so we don't fry them from incorrect chargers or over charging.
But there are charges that are 15v. I've have one that came with my ASUS Transformer Infinity Pad. I think many Samsung tablets are in the same boat. I don't recall using that charger on any of my smartphones; if I have, it's only been once or twice, but good possibility I may never have. But as stated earlier, I have used my phone chargers on the tablet, but only does a trickle charge. That tablet has some wide input plug at the end of the USB cord. I'm thinking one of the pins must not get enough power to trigger the full charge. Yet, if I use my Anker external battery, set it to 15v, and a few adapters, it triggers the normal charge cycle.
Don't forget,phones such as Galaxy Note 2, Galaxy S3, use 11pin microUSB ports versus the standard 5. I have no idea what all pins do or trigger, My assumption, part of your answer why the charge output varies lies with how they're use the other pins. I know quite a few tablets have more than 5 pins since the USB port is some wide thing; the ASUS does because it carries data and power for the separate keyboard that can be attached to be a suedo-laptop that has USB ports, battery and full 104 key keyboard; I don't recall what other ports the attachment may have.
I still hold that part of charge difference is also the USB cord itself since difference materials have difference resistance. It may not be as significant as the charger itself, but I've seen significant differences in charging times or depletion rates (around 10% battery per hour) using MHL adapters purely on the USB cables.
Yes, typing out long replies on the phone's virtual keyboard blows monkey chunks. Thus, I use a blue tooth keyboard instead for those situations. I also have a blue tooth mouse, LOL.
After looking up a bit on USB car chargers, many people seem to recommend the Scosche Dual USB Car Charger (reVOLT 12W + 12W). Each USB port outputs 2.4A of power to charge any device (there's a known issue with this charger for some non Apple devices, you should use charge-only USB for those), but our HTC One stock charger outputs only 1A.
I am afraid a fast car charger like this one will easily overheat my battery, charging it much faster than usual and degrading its lifespan. Should I worry about this or can I order this charger and not worry about it?
I'm confused because a lot of people recommend car chargers like this one (with more output power than what the stock charger of your device gives you) and no review mentions the issue I'm raising here. Is this a non-issue?
Would appreciate more information on this topic from more knowledgeable people in this area.
Nazgulled said:
After looking up a bit on USB car chargers, many people seem to recommend the Scosche Dual USB Car Charger (reVOLT 12W + 12W). Each USB port outputs 2.4A of power to charge any device (there's a known issue with this charger for some non Apple devices, you should use charge-only USB for those), but our HTC One stock charger outputs only 1A.
I am afraid a fast car charger like this one will easily overheat my battery, charging it much faster than usual and degrading its lifespan. Should I worry about this or can I order this charger and not worry about it?
I'm confused because a lot of people recommend car chargers like this one (with more output power than what the stock charger of your device gives you) and no review mentions the issue I'm raising here. Is this a non-issue?
Would appreciate more information on this topic from more knowledgeable people in this area.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no expert here but it is my understanding that the phone will take what it requires to charge no matter if you have a 1A or a 2A charger meaning that you will be wasting the power delivered by the charger. I don't think it will affect the battery nor will make it charge faster as I think the internal logic of the phone would not permit so. It could also be the case that HTC limited the power output on the charger but not on the phone meaning that in this case it will charge faster, and I think degrading battery life. Anyway, if you have someone with a higher amp charger you can test this yourself by measuring the time it takes to fully charge with the original charger and the other one. It will not really have an impact in battery life if you just try.
I guess I didn't respond to your question actually! Sorry
Thanks anyway
But if anyone knows the answer for a fact, please pitch in...
J_M_V_S said:
I'm no expert here but it is my understanding that the phone will take what it requires to charge no matter if you have a 1A or a 2A charger meaning that you will be wasting the power delivered by the charger. I don't think it will affect the battery nor will make it charge faster as I think the internal logic of the phone would not permit so. It could also be the case that HTC limited the power output on the charger but not on the phone meaning that in this case it will charge faster, and I think degrading battery life. Anyway, if you have someone with a higher amp charger you can test this yourself by measuring the time it takes to fully charge with the original charger and the other one. It will not really have an impact in battery life if you just try.
I guess I didn't respond to your question actually! Sorry
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You definitely aren't expert, neither am I, but there are couple things:
You were right about that, that device should pull only as much as it needs.
But he won't waste power (in ideal world). As the phone pulls only 1A from 1A or from 2A charger, he still be pulling 5Vx1A = 5W.
Now, to the original question.
Basically every device pulls as much as it can / needs. The Amps on charger says about how much can it deliver maximum.
The question is, how is constructed htc charging circuit. Whether it relays on maximum from charger, or it has internal limitor..
I will try to make an example to make it clearer:
Imagine, that you have a tube made of glass and a reservoir full of water. Tube is your phone and reservoir is charger.
Now, 2 situations can ocur:
1, Tube is made of very thin glass and it relays, that there won;'t be bigger pressure (more water) in reservoir. If there would be more, tube would crack.
2, Although tube is made of thin glass, it has some mechanism included, let's say pressure regulator on the beginning to reduce the pressure.
Now the question is, which of these cases is our phone about.
In short, the HTC One will pull only 1A out of your charger, regardless of whether it's 2A or 100A. The only way you can make it pull more than 1A is by installing a custom kernel like ElementalX or Bulletproof and ticking on 'Enable USB fast charge' which is disabled by default because it shortens the battery's life.
remusator said:
You definitely aren't expert, neither am I, but there are couple things:
You were right about that, that device should pull only as much as it needs.
But he won't waste power (in ideal world). As the phone pulls only 1A from 1A or from 2A charger, he still be pulling 5Vx1A = 5W.
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What I meant to say is that it would be wasting a 2A charger whilst the phone only seems to require 1A, not meaning that the charger will still be delivering at maximum capacity (2A).
Guess none of us could answer his question as we still don't know how the phone handles the charge.
Subjective answer from an anonymous noob, but I charge my phone with a 2.1A wall charger (built into a power board) and there's no perceptible change in charge rate. I've also used a cheap portible charger, a lithium 800mA, and that battery gets HOT like my m7 is pulling 1A just because it detects it's not limited to usbs 500mA (the power dialog reports AC charging mode).
So it seems to me to be a simple 2 mode as shown as a status in the power dialog, either usb or AC. But, I haven't actually measured or tested anything; this is all just casual observation and assumption.
Can I blow up my USB device?
There is a huge variance, then, between normal USB 2.0 ports rated at 500mA and dedicated charging ports which range all the way up to 2100mA. This leads to a rather important question: If you take a smartphone which came with a 1A wall charger, and plug it into a 2A iPad charger, will it blow up?
In short, no: You can plug any USB device into any USB cable and into any USB port, and nothing will blow up — and in fact, using a more powerful charger should speed up battery charging.
The longer answer is that the age of your device plays an important role, dictating both how fast it can be charged, and whether it can be charged using a wall charger at all. In 2007, the USB Implementers Forum released the Battery Charging Specification, which standardized faster ways of charging USB devices, either by pumping more amps through your PC’s USB ports, or by using a wall charger. Shortly thereafter, USB devices that implemented this spec started to arrive.
Fast forward to 2013 and the HTC One. It is equipped with a USB 2.0 port and when no data is transferred it will accept a charge up to 1A with a minimal standard of 500mA. When you buy a charger that says 2A output, this normally means a max of 2A for the charger. When it comes to charging the phone, the phone will only pull enough power it can from the charger and not more.
@Nazgulled
Now a days Car charger is so essential for us. But when we chose A Car charger for our device its not match, so it s harmful for us & its some time cases to damage our device.
Most of the time The power out put of the car its 12V or 24V. and The Charger give different out put for different device. And its a major thing about the charger whats Ampere given output. Avantek Car charger give us different option ; I think its give different out for our device. Avantek take also help auto adjust to the device. So its protect the device.
I Use Avantek Car Charger for my family & You can also try it for your device.
Nazgulled said:
After looking up a bit on USB car chargers, many people seem to recommend the Scosche Dual USB Car Charger (reVOLT 12W + 12W). Each USB port outputs 2.4A of power to charge any device (there's a known issue with this charger for some non Apple devices, you should use charge-only USB for those), but our HTC One stock charger outputs only 1A.
I am afraid a fast car charger like this one will easily overheat my battery, charging it much faster than usual and degrading its lifespan. Should I worry about this or can I order this charger and not worry about it?
I'm confused because a lot of people recommend car chargers like this one (with more output power than what the stock charger of your device gives you) and no review mentions the issue I'm raising here. Is this a non-issue?
Would appreciate more information on this topic from more knowledgeable people in this area.
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Yes, fast usb car chargers may harm your device. Because if device get power more than its capacity then it would be definitely harm your costly devices. So please purchase a perfect and valuable charger for your devices long life.
Also quick note using a charger that charges your device faster will decrease the life of your battery, remember slow charging is best for the battery and that goes for all batteries
To answer conclusively as I have before:
I've had many many many phones and this is what I've learned over the years through experience and a lot of searching. Our phones are designed for whatever rating it is on the stock charger, which is 1A. However we have chargers that support more current. Which leads us into the next part.
Phones will only "pull" what is it rated for. It controls the final pressure valve in the water metaphor. In this example. Our phones are rated 1A Max @ stock kernel. "Extra power" isnt and cannot used up due to this rating. hence no extra loss except on your wallet. Fast charge raises the rating and limits vary from kernel to kernel. I've used my phone with a 2.4a charger + fast charge enabled before and its fine. Its a little warm (more on that in next paragraph) I'm on "dirty unicorns" ROM and I haven't gotten around to checking the limits
Regardless.. Whether it is detrimental to your phone battery is personal choice as having the % below 40 and heat is #1 enemy to batteries. Our batteries are designed for 5 years max anyway. If you want to play it safe, get a 1A charger and a max 6ft cable as more = less current. Make sure this cable is not from eBay or has sufficient guage size as the copper in some eBay cables can be thinner than your hair. This is important.
If you're looking for unpractical long term savings. Keep your phone room temperature within its temperature rating. Keep charge above 40%, optimally around 80% as lithium batteries degenerate when kept near 100% for too long. (See how frail our current battery designs are? There are higher battery tech our there, but due to cost none are in phones)
I've had horrible horrible power efficiency Roms before and as worst, it just stays on one % value without dropping (no fast charge, 1a charger)
Charging only cables are useless because since 4.3 kernels, android supports iPhone chargers as well.
In addition, car chargers have built in voltage regulators in them, our 12v car source can actually range from 8v to 30v depending on conditions. 8v on crank, and during cold days, 14.4 alternator running, 24v on car boosts. Most car 12v ports are unregulated and Most car chargers operate around 11-15v and give off excess power as heat. Given this, in truly exceptional cases, unless you deliberately overload the charger, we're still good as 5v from a GOOD charger are pretty stable for the phone. Monoprice sells good chargers with good electronic internals for a very good price. Bad chargers pass off this electrical noise to your phone.
TL-Dr.. no difference between 2.4a and 1a. Phone takes what it is rated for(1a). Extra isn't used. Fast charge kernels can increase this rating at a slight warming of phone. In all cases, heat / below 40% = more detrimental to battery life than current speeds. Get a good cable with good gauge size. (Copper width)
If you need further proof, google the terms I have presented or search XDA. There has been many "conclusive" posts on this matter and you'll find many of them say this same exact thing.
Phew.. What a long post.
Sent from my One
Smart IC Powerful will determine the current which your phone needs
Nazgulled said:
Thanks anyway
But if anyone knows the answer for a fact, please pitch in...
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Smart IC Powerful USB Car charger will determine the electric current which your phone needs
Sold by HAWEEL and Fulfilled by Amazon
ASIN: B00Z65KBVM
HTC m7 can take max 1.5A but it seem to not work with many chargers, in such case it falls back to 1A.
But if youre using the phone for GPS navigation, then charging faster will just make it more hot (hot from usage + even more hot from charging) and it will stop charging anyway (because of the heat).
Also, heat is biggest enemy of batteries, the hotter it gets while charging the worse it is for the battery.