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Hi guys. I am thinking of askingn a Chinese contact I have about making a proper style keyboard that clicks to the base of the Athena/Ameo/X7500 just like the crappy standard one. It will have proper style keys miniature but much better than the flat ones that come with it.
What do you guys think of the idea? would it sell well? How much would you be willing to pay etc? I have to look at the logistics of it. Also is there akeyboard on an existing PDA that you think would be a good template for the new one?
Also anyone know what the pinouts are on the connector on the keyboard?
You may not break even if it is only for ameo, and so simple
Actually I am thinking now a mini-usb keyboard... so less drain than bluetooth, with mini usb, and normal usb adapter -
I use the keysonic keyboard from maplin, its only about 10 inches long and very compact, usb though, I find somthing you can have some distance from the screen a lot better for typing. I personally dont have a problem with the Ameo KB. it does the job, "two finger typing" but if I was sitting writting shed loads an external would be preferable. like victoradjei said, dont think it would be profitable, to much of a nich market. Also somthing else to carry about. I now just leave my keyboard in the car, and to be fair I havnt even needed it for a while. okay, ive used it once since i got it, another £30 waisted.
I don't see the point if you can use a Bluetooth wireless keyboard
Well the thinking behind it is to REPLACE the crappy keyboard that comes with it..
Bluetoooth keyboards are fine but they drain a lot more power than a hard wired one.
I'm thinking that a keyboard that has decent keys and fits in the space and size ofthe old one woudl be cool. I had a Psion 5 and that keyboard was AMAZING compared to the Ameo and it was tiny, but still had real keys. There must be enough market for stuff for the Ameo/Athena etc otherwise why would people make cradles and other stuff for it?
johnwalk - I have the Keysonic too - great keyboard but too big to bung in a briefcase to use with the Ameo - if i want to look 'cool' with my device in a meeting or something I would need something at least half the size, and foldable to stick with the form factor of the Ameo itself.
PSION 5 keyboard rocks!
Yeah i had a PSION 5 and that keyboard was amazing i have to admit, along with the Universal Keyboard, miss that to!
Its a toughie as i dont carry my keyboard about, yet I prob would pay around £30 to have a decent keyboard that I could use with my Ameo.
I find the one that was with it very unusable and now i use HappyTappingKeyboard decent on screen keyboard app and im finding more and more reasons not to use an external keyboard.
Will keep my eye on this topic tho as Id be interested to see what happens.
Mmm, bluetooth keyboard????? Stick to direct replacement
Also i dont think the Bluetooth Keyboard would be a good idea.
Mainly because of the draining power issues, but also because most people use their bluetooth headsets with their device so pairing and using both would mean alot of messing about.
A direct replacement keyboard for the device would be great.
Just my 10cents worth!
ok I see what your trying to do now. what about trying to get something to unfold to make bigger, maybe disguised as a case or would that start to get complicated.
new keyboard feedback...
Here is what I like and don't like about the default keyboard:
Likes
- Thin.
- Easily removed/attached.
- No wires.
- Magnetic.
- Easily stored away as it doesn't take up too much space.
- Not BlueTooth.
Dislikes
- (This is a like and dislike feature)Has a powerful magnet and I'm hesitant about putting it next to my MP3 or PVR player because I don't want it wiping the hard drives. I just want to throw it in my bag but then think twice about it. I guess I need to find a compartment in my bag away from my storage devices. I don't have a problem with it next to my laptop since the HD on the laptop is shielded.
- Key feel, they seem sluggish and not firm.
- No click when pressing keys, like Universal.
- No back light.
- No option to used detached or with extension cable.
- Keys too spread apart and not easy to get to, which causes typing errors
- Easily scratched.
- No row for number keys, but I can live with this since the phone I used before the Athena was the TyTn/Hermes.
- Scratches case when in closed position.
Combining the Universal keyboard with the benefits of the Athena keyboard would be ideal, in my opinion.
I'll update my post if anything else comes to mind.
OK, I will concede the bluetooth issue, even though the 750x has a huge battery.
The best keyboard I had was the Sony KB100 for the Sony Clie series. It was a folding keyboard, with scissors action keys (like a laptop) and it connected to the unit via the charger.
It would be nice if we were to get a folding KB with magnetic attachment.
Yep yep, id have to agree
ltxda said:
Here is what I like and don't like about the default keyboard:
Likes
- Thin.
- Easily removed/attached.
- No wires.
- Magnetic.
- Easily stored away as it doesn't take up too much space.
- Not BlueTooth.
Dislikes
- (This is a like and dislike feature)Has a powerful magnet and I'm hesitant about putting it next to my MP3 or PVR player because I don't want it wiping the hard drives. I just want to throw it in my bag but then think twice about it. I guess I need to find a compartment in my bag away from my storage devices. I don't have a problem with it next to my laptop since the HD on the laptop is shielded.
- Key feel, they seem sluggish and not firm.
- No click when pressing keys, like Universal.
- No back light.
- No option to used detached or with extension cable.
- Keys too spread apart and not easy to get to, which causes typing errors
- Easily scratched.
- No row for number keys, but I can live with this since the phone I used before the Athena was the TyTn/Hermes.
- Scratches case when in closed position.
Combining the Universal keyboard with the benefits of the Athena keyboard would be ideal, in my opinion.
I'll update my post if anything else comes to mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have to say youve got all the points spot on, completely agree with you. I would take my keyboard about if:
1- It was a decent one
2- It didnt scratch the main unit.
Hi Guys. Sorry for the lack of replies I've been in Barcelona! I'm seeing what I can find out about that connector on the Ameo keyboard but so far running a blank.... if i want to match up an existing keyboard matrix somehow i need to know what the Ameo matrix is like (and hopefully the connector will tell me something!)
Also investigating some small USB keyboards and wether they could be adapted some way to use the proprietry connector directly. I used to have a PDa keybaord that used IR and that folded - was cool but a bit 'clacky' in feel. I'm trying to get my hands on a Psion 7 keyboard and 5 one too, plus one from the Revo to see what can be done there. If anyoe has any other ideas I'd be open to suggestions!
If its not possible to get the keyboard to use the connector under the Ameo would people be ok with one that attaches the unit via a magnet but plugs into the connector on the side?
If it could connect up using the standard connector thats already there then thats def the way to go, there must be a way.
Otherwise having a cable coming out and plugging into say the USB connector may be ok, but def not the preferred option.
Good luck!
OK Guys - a question....
Has anyone got a spare Athena keyboard? It can be scratched or bent or whatever as long as I can dissasemble it and get to the route of those connections!!
Then I can get my contacts in China to see if they can marry it up to a decent mini keyboard matrix....
No one got a keyboard they dont want? Even broken would do!! Come on guys this would maybe allow me to connect a real one up!
I would love to have a keyboard as similar to the universal as possible that clicked on just like the original.
It would need to be backlit, either by manual turning on, or even whenever activated, no need for fancy lightsensors.
Definitely would be a must to have the numbers on seperate buttons.
Wouldn't mind if it became somewhat thicker, if the above improvements were available.
I certainly would buy one if it became available.
Well I've got three lines of thinking:
a. A keyboard that fits the original space but has 'keys' like the the Psion 5/Revo
or
b. A very small usb keyboard that plugs into the '16 pin proprietry' plug on the Athena, or uses the connector on the base of it.
or
c. A USB to 16 pin adapter - a small and single one like the USb to PS/2 ones.
So I have 2 problems....
1. Need pinouts for the connector on the lower edge of the Athena
Note* The smallest USB keyboard I have found so far is 215mm * 110mm * 11mm, which is VERY small indeed but still bigger than the Athena... I'm going to get one anyway as I would carry it in my bag anyway.
and/or (i think 'and' as I'd like to offer both types of keyboard)
2. Somewhere I can get theh pinouts of the 16 pin connector on the side of the Athena and where to buy a plug!
Come on guys, let's make this brilliant PDA just a little bit better!
Willing to send keyboard, if...
Hi adamelphick,
what would be the adress where I would have to send the original ameo keyboard to? Would you give me one of your new keyboards when they are ready?
Best regards,
Hamartia
Any news from this project?
Hey everybody!
I just went through my electronics-box and found an old 15.4" LCD screen that I ripped from a broken Laptop a couple of years ago. Also a couple of days ago, there was a post on engadget about some chinese company, that sells the electronics for the type of LCD screen that I have. That made me thinking what to do with it:
Since I think the Nook is a perfect device for traveling around, I don't like it just to lie around at home. So my thought was, if it would be possible, or even has already been done, to fit the screen with some touch capability and build some kind of docking station for the Nook:
I come home, put it in the dock and the bigger screen takes all the functionality of the Nook screen (for displaying some media for example). Also of course it should charge the battery.
When I leave the House, I just take the Nook out of the Dock and have the normal Nook behaviour.
This is just a brief idea and I have not put any thoughts about the feasibility of such a project into it. What do you think about it?
That is a pretty cool idea! I would love to see you go through with it. I have a feeling that the cable might be an issue.... Is it even possible to transfer images through a microUSB plug? That would be the only thing that I see that might end up as an issue. My question would be, would it require additional software to make the image work appropriately with the monitor?
External display
I am searching for this functionality for a very long time.This is the first time I have seen a post related to that.
I would be happy atleast connecting nook to a dell monitor.
It may be possible using the display link drivers from the link attached . This is some thing I have been trying to make happen since i bought a car with out gps , I would love to mount a touch screen in the car then connect my android devices to it so i have all the same functions on a larger more driver friendly screen . http://libdlo.freedesktop.org/wiki/
Looks like it's been done, just about.
http://hackaday.com/2011/10/10/how-to-build-a-23-android-tablet/
You just need to expose the connections and add a switch of sorts...
very intriguing I might have to try this.
thank you for posting this
I think...I MAY try this at some point.
its just too cool not to. Im not sure what I would use it for though
Hey all! It's been a while since someone posted any vehicle install pics in this forum, so I thought I'd catch you all up on a little project of mine. I started it earlier this year, but now have it almost completed. Some of this was previously posted on another forum, so I apologize in advance if something doesn't make sense or seems out of context. I'll fill in any gaps, and answer any questions you may have.
I started with a car dock for my phone attached to a Bracketron mount. I'll be able to tether the phone's internet access with the Android tablet I'll be using as a head unit.
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I'm going to be using a rooted Nook Color, and in order to fit it in place, I needed to move the HVAC controls. After pulling the center bezel off and looking around, it appeared that the controls could be moved down after a little cutting and duct modification. Here is the end result after fabbing a pair of new brackets. I've still got to make a new surround to fill the gap.
In addition to the Nook, I'm adding a Hifonics HFEQ. This will allow me fine control over the signal being sent to the amps. I can switch between inputs and use it as the main volume control.
The approximate position of the Nook...
I'm using a tablet mount from RAM, and I've got to figure out a good way to mount it. That's coming up soon!
Now one last thing. I have a bluetooth OBDII reader installed for the Nook. I reversed the plug and bent it up slightly to keep it out of the way. I'll be able to use an Android app called Torque to read all relevent Jeep data.
Update time! I needed to get the Nook mount in place, and modify the center bezel. I had a lot of options when it came to mounting, but I wanted to keep it simple, and by default reliable. If it won't take abuse, it's not worth putting in a Jeep. So, I decided to utilize my existing Quadratec iVault. It has served me well for the past year or so, and now it was getting a few more holes... The idea was to eventually make a storage compartment behind the face, and use the face itself to hold the RAM mount. Now, I do realize that nothing is ever truly safe in a Jeep, but there are times I need to stash something quickly while running in to a store. The Nook itself would likely get put in there.
So, let's start with the mods. Due to the mounting points in the RAM, I needed to move the existing iVault lock to the left. I drilled a hole, and shaped it with my Dremel. This was the result.
Now I needed to make a few holes for the RAM mount.
Now finally the mount and iVault face are bolted together.
It was time for a test fit. As you can see, it attaches nicely. Now one could argue about the aesthetics of it's spacing away from the the bezel as it is, but it works well for me. It's within easy reach, and most importantly, nothing is blocked. That was a priority here. I've seen installs where the vents are unusable, or the HVAC controls are inaccessible. That may technically work, but I couldn't live with it. There was no way I wanted to sacrifice any function just to do something cool. That's also the reason the Nook isn't more tightly integrated into the bezel. It needs to be easily removable, and make for easy maintenance should it be needed.
Now, let's take a look at the Hifonics EQ. It's very easy to use in this location, but I'm not sure the pic is doing it justice. I have to do something about the gap above it though. I can't just shove a fill plate in there and call it good. I've got to fix it the right way. You can see the hole I added for access to the iVault lock.
So, it was time to do a little cutting. I've got everything marked out and ready for the Dremel.
After the cuts...
Let's clamp that piece in place...
I cut a piece of plexi to fit behind the hole, and epoxied it in place. Once the epoxy cures, it will get smoothed out with a fiberglass reinforced Bondo.
After a few light layers of Bondo and subsequent sanding, I gave it a quick shot of primer. Here you can see the fresh primer still in the process of drying. A few more coats and it will be like glass. I dare you to say it doesn't look completely OEM.
The last thing I did was reassemble everything to triple check fitment. It all looks good, so it's on to mounting the EQ solidly, and getting a fill plate made for the HVAC. Then it's painting and final assembly!
Well, after not doing much for a week, I tried to be productive last night. I swapped cases on my Nook Color to something more appropriate for the Jeep. I still need to get some hardwiring done, and also build custom touch contacts for docking. I'm just waiting on some parts from Mouser.com.
When I last left off, I was waiting for a few parts to arrive. Once they did, I set out to make the Nook easily docked in the Jeep. A lot of the more expensive tablets, such as the Samsung Galaxy Tab, make docking a breeze. Of course you have to spend nearly twice as much on the tablet to do so. That would defeat the purpose of doing this mod in the first place. Affordable and durable are 2 very important criteria here, and I've got to stick to the concept.
So, let's address the power issues first. The Nook needs to be able to be charged once it's in the cradle, and there's no way I was willing to plug/unplug in a power cord every time I wanted to take it in or out. The tablet is supposed to simplify things while bringing more features. If I can't accomplish that, then I was better off leaving a regular head unit in place. I wanted to just grab it and go.
Getting power to the Nook started with one of these. It's a micro USB plug with a board and solder points. You can see a test fit with the Nook in the cradle.
Next I had to mark out a small area that needed notching. This would allow the USB plug to seat fully in the Nook.
After the notching...
Okay, so now it was time to figure out a way to mount the plug to the cradle. I needed something simple, strong, and clean. I decided to bend some plexi and cut it to size.
Now that I had a mounting system in place, it was time to wire the plug. The method you see below allows for a USB extension cable to be added easily to the cradle.
In the next update I'll finish the power dock, and move on to a revised dash mount (I'm never satisfied!)
I've got a sneak peek at the almost finished install here. The biggest addition is stainless steel bar that now sits in front of the EQ. This bar will help protect it from bouncing and stray objects or people. The bar also serves a secondary purpose. It does a pretty good job of hiding the EQ from anyone peering in the windows when the top is on. Although I didn't get pics of the process, the bar is fastened to aluminum plates that are epoxied behind the bezel. It's pretty strong, and certainly isn't going anywhere.
It may be subtle, but you might also notice the tablet and mount are now sitting closer to the dash than in previous pics. I redesigned the mount and made it more secure while giving it a cleaner look.
With most of the work done, I'm now going to focus on a few smaller details. I'll cover that and finish this update in an upcoming post.
Touch contacts... I've mentioned them several times in the past, and now I've finally got a few pics to show you what I'm talking about. First though, my reasoning for implementing them. For it's price, the Nook Color is a brilliant piece of hardware. It's solidly built, and has a better screen than most tablets over twice it's price. The cheaper cost makes for a few missing features compared to other tablets, but when you consider this is marketed as an e-reader, it's pretty understandable. I've mentioned how I couldn't justify spending more on an Android tablet that would see some potential abuse. So, I had to get creative to overcome what the Nook was missing, particularly a docking port of some kind. If you've got to plug and unplug cables into the tablet each time you get in and out, it becomes a huge pain. You've already seen me fab a micro-usb connecter into a tablet dock. Now it was time to move on to the audio.
I've used these touch contacts from Mouser.com on other computer modding projects, and knew they would be perfect for what I'm trying to do here.
One of the most important aspects of this mod, was that I wouldn't have to change anything on the Nook itself. I wanted to leave it structurally intact. Should anything happen to the Nook, and I need to get it replaced, I won't have to redo any of my work. It also means I could sell it if I want, and not affect it's value in anyway. The Trident case I chose for the Nook is a critical part of this mod, and was bought specifically with this in mind.
Here I've found a flat, open area, and marked it for cutting.
A little time with the Dremel and a file left me with a perfect fit...
Up next, was a custom cable made from an angled 3.5mm plug and length of USB wire. (I only needed 3 conductor wire, but chose to use this due to it's increased thickness.)
Although I didn't take a picture of it, to fit the cable in the case, I drilled a small hole in one end, and used the Dremel to create a very shallow channel behind the case to route the wires to the touch contact. I soldered the wires to the contact, and put the case on the Nook.
As you can see above, the fit is excellent, and the function is even better. The case is removable without harming the Nook, and I've not compromised functionality in anyway. When the tablet is out of the Jeep, the contacts are unobtrusive, and should I need to use headphones, I can simply unplug without affecting anything.
Up next, the dock will get some contacts of it's own...
As promised, the dock now has contacts. It couldn't have been simpler. I cut a rectangle to fit the touch contacts, epoxied it in place from the back, and soldered on a 3.5mm plug. The dock was reinstalled in the dash, and I was done!
So, what now? We'll I plan on taking some video of how easy it is to dock, and some of the tablet's basic features. That should give you some idea of how well things really work together, and why I really love this setup.
Looks like a solid install. Awesome work!
spamolamo said:
Looks like a solid install. Awesome work!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! It is very solid, and a great solution overall for a vehicle like the Wrangler. Any other vehicle and I would have integrated it into the dash itself. It didn't make sense to do that here, but I wanted to make sure it was more custom than 'just throwing a dock on the dash.'
holy cow.....very nice!
Very well done. I especially like the contacts for the audio. nice touch.
Nice to see you over this side as well. Love the work. I'm thinking about doing it more and more I see it.
misterbbq said:
holy cow.....very nice!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! I always try to keep my work clean. The irony is that the Jeep itself its rarely clean.
grindill said:
Very well done. I especially like the contacts for the audio. nice touch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I wanted it to be easy to use. In or out, and just go. Who wants to spend time messing with cables?
dna59 said:
Nice to see you over this side as well. Love the work. I'm thinking about doing it more and more I see it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha, yeah, posting this here was long overdue. Just do it... you know you wanna!
Wow I love it. Nice work
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
Nice looking install! Interesting too as I've been considering something similar in one of my cars.
is the USB going to be for charging only, or are you planning on adding a USB GPS unit? (assuming nook will do host USB)
If the USB is going to be for charging only you can improve the charging rate by shorting the two data pins (the inner ones) - the millom will then show"AC" when it shows "charging" on the status panel, and will draw more than 500mA which is what it limits itself to from a normal USB port. Its not as fast as the stock wall charger but still an improvement.
cchant said:
Wow I love it. Nice work
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks man!
w0mbl3 said:
Nice looking install! Interesting too as I've been considering something similar in one of my cars.
is the USB going to be for charging only, or are you planning on adding a USB GPS unit? (assuming nook will do host USB)
If the USB is going to be for charging only you can improve the charging rate by shorting the two data pins (the inner ones) - the millom will then show"AC" when it shows "charging" on the status panel, and will draw more than 500mA which is what it limits itself to from a normal USB port. Its not as fast as the stock wall charger but still an improvement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Nook is set up to use host mode. I've got the cable and adapters, but haven't installed them yet. I planned ahead so it's a simple plug and play from cables I can reach through my glove box. I am experimenting with a SSD based hot swap usb device. It 'usually' works, but I'm going to do some more testing before I go ahead with it. I've got around 40gb of music I'd like accessible at all times if I'm going to do it right.
I know that it's a little slow to charge this way, but it's never been an issue. The power to the Nook is a 12v constant tapped into the OEM stereo harness. I do have a shut off switch if I don't drive the Jeep for extended periods, but otherwise it's always on. The power draw is so minimal that I'm not in the least concerned about battery drainage. If it did happen, then I'd want to replace the battery anyway, as it has no business in my Jeep.
I don't use a USB based GPS device, I use a bluetooth one instead. It's mounted above the driver side visor, and powered via a USB cable ran through the windshield frame. It only charges while driving though. It's attached with velcro should I need to easily remove it. Here is a pic.
craigbru said:
I know that it's a little slow to charge this way, but it's never been an issue. The power to the Nook is a 12v constant tapped into the OEM stereo harness.
I don't use a USB based GPS device, I use a bluetooth one instead. It's mounted above the driver side visor, and powered via a USB cable ran through the windshield frame. It only charges while driving though. It's attached with velcro should I need to easily remove it. Here is a pic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
12v? Does that work ok? I experimentally modified a USB charger as test of the AC-charging thing, but hard wiring to switched 12v would be easier.
After my post I searched here on XDA and came across the BT adapters - much easier than USB, plus I can wire in a decent GPS antenna inside the dash. What model is your GPS unit and does the BT have the range to pair reliably? I've seen a few posts saying it only works a few inches
Thanks for the info and posting the install !
w0mbl3 said:
12v? Does that work ok? I experimentally modified a USB charger as test of the AC-charging thing, but hard wiring to switched 12v would be easier.
After my post I searched here on XDA and came across the BT adapters - much easier than USB, plus I can wire in a decent GPS antenna inside the dash. What model is your GPS unit and does the BT have the range to pair reliably? I've seen a few posts saying it only works a few inches
Thanks for the info and posting the install !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I should clarify. I'm using one of these wired to constant 12v. The Nook is receiving a standard 5 volts from a USB cable.
I'm using this adapter, and it's been flawless. It picks up the GPS signal quickly, and pairing takes only a second. It's kept it's pairing at a distance of about 5 feet during testing, but as it sits in the Jeep, it's only about 2 feet away. I've never had it lose connection.
What nav software do you use? I'm wondering if the bluetooth GPS works with Co-Piolt or Navigon? I do not want to use google because i'm on a 200mb data plan.
222psm said:
What nav software do you use? I'm wondering if the bluetooth GPS works with Co-Piolt or Navigon? I do not want to use google because i'm on a 200mb data plan.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm currently using Google, but I'm caching the maps. I've not tried it with other software yet, but I'd certainly like to. It's on my list of things yet to do.
While I already have this posted over at Rootzwiki, I figured it would make sense to post it over here for the wider audience. There may be some parts missing from here (copying useful parts over, and the thread covers a few months), but the full thread can easily be found. I am using Timur's ROM, and installing the Nexus into my 2006 Audi A4. Ever since I bought the car I have been annoyed/disappointed with the factory stereo, for one thing it has a tape deck (why a car made in 2006 has a tape deck, is something that will forever confuse me). It also has no bluetooth, no GPS, no way to add an aux input except using a cassette type adaptor. All in all, its pretty limited. My options for replacing it were either an RNS-E ($800+) or an aftermarket unit (cost of aftermarket unit + approximately $200 in wiring to get it functional).
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I have already replaced everything downstream of the head unit, starting with a JBL MS8, I then have a pair of Alpine amplifiers running all of my speakers. The sound is good, but just something about the original head unit always bugged me. On an Audi forum I am a member of, I recently saw someone had mentioned they were looking to install an iPad into their dash. That got the wheels turning, and before you know it. I was holding my wifes Kindle Fire up to the dash.
Since the fitment was good, I decided to go ahead with the project. Bought a 16GB Nexus 7, I went with the 16GB because I don't plan to store a whole lot on the tablet itself. I also started ordering a bunch of supplies that I would need:
Dash kit
12V DC-DC Regulator
Fuse Tap
OTG Cable
USB Hub
90 degree mini USB connector
Sabre USB-DAC
I thought about leaving the Nexus stock for a couple weeks, but after about a day rooted it and flashed with Timur's USB ROM. I removed my stock head unit from the car, plugged the JBL MS8 into the 3.5mm output, and nothing. I then realized that the MS8 currently gets a remote turn on signal from my OEM head unit. Currently I am trying to locate a switchable 12V somewhere, but likely will end up using the fuse tap.
Here is where things look so far:
The kit is not pushed all the way back in, this was really just for test fitment purposes. Since I don't yet have the fuse tap, I want to keep my OEM head unit in there for a couple more weeks. Mental note: If you think you are going to sneeze when using a Dremel, switch off the Dremel:
In order to get the Nexus to sit flush, I had to dremel off some material on the back of the dash kit. The scratch is only noticeable at certain angles, but I may well pick up another dash kit at some point. Once my 90 degree USB connector arrives I need to figure out which of the area's in red below I need to cut some away from. They are simply plastic, that I think help hold the stock head unit in place. So I should be able to cut a notch out for the USB cable to go through:
That's about the extent of my progress for now. As I am currently waiting on a few things to arrive in the mail. Ultimately I will have the Nexus semi permanent in the dash (I want to be able to remove it if parked in high crime areas), USB-OTG cable plugged in, then a USB hub, with the USB-DAC sending signal to the MS8, and an iPod flashed with Rockbox as external storage in the glovebox for music. I plan to use my cell phone and bluetooth tethering for streaming music / navigation. At some point I am also going to pick up a Connects2 harness and Joycon to retain my steering wheel controls, and am also keeping an eye on the useage of an easycap in order to add a back up cam.
Original Rootzwiki Link: http://rootzwiki.com/topic/39361-2006-audi-a4-in-dash-install/
Edit: Had a few people asking me for the launcher, it should now be attached to this post. The black border was in order to keep the image centralized on my home screen. Along with this image I just used UCCW to create hotspots for opening the apps.
Bit of an update from today...
Safety first when working on the car.
Pulled out the glovebox, knee bolster on the drivers side and trunk trim in order to run wiring. I had to run a new remote turn on wire to my MS8 as there is no switchable 12v in the trunk. Power and ground to the fuse box area, and I wanted to run a USB extension into the glovebox for my flash drive.
For now I ended up removing the inline fuse that I was using behind the fuse box on the 12v going to the 12v regulator, I may add it again, but have it tapped into a fused circuit, so not sure I need to.
I got 99% of things working today, my ground wire to the USB hub needs to be re-done. The wires are so thin that the splice was not working, for now I just have them twisted together. I did get music playing through the MS8, and my USB flash drive was mounting fine. The other issue I am running into is when I turn off the ignition, the hub loses power instantly, causing the Nexus to give me a warning about improper removal of USB storage. I am trying to find out if there is a way to use Tasker to unmount the storage. But, I don't think I can get it to work, as the second the ignition goes off, the hub loses power. I may just have to manually unmount each time (which sucks).
The other thing is that I need to trim some more plastic to the right of the tablet, due to the 90 degree micro USB adapter, and charger cable, the dash trim does not seem to fit in properly. I am planning to finish these pieces up tomorrow, and then see how it does with my commute to work on Tuesday.
Last update for the weekend, mostly working.
I glued a couple small pieces of foam at the top to push the Nexus outwards, I may add something to the bottom as well to make it sit a little more flush. Somewhat afraid to remove it at the moment though, due to the USB issue with the cable being knocked slightly causing it to lose connection. I do want to think of a solution though, as like I said, I want to be able to remove it from the car.
Took a quick test drive into town and back (about 30 miles of driving) audio / power did not cut out at all. Battery went from 78% when I left, and was back up to 83% when I got home. Spent half the time streaming music from the flash drive, the other half streaming over Slacker using Bluetooth tethered to my cell phone.
Next steps are to save up for a CAN-BUS interface, and then pick up a Joycon. Having had to change the volume via the screen, I want to use steering wheel controls. It's difficult to accurately adjust the volume, so I want the steering wheel option back. I also need to try and think of what to do with the USB. If I can find a charger cable with a shorter plug section, that may work as I can remove the 90 degree bend. But, most I have looked (I have 3 different kinds laying around the house) all have a similar length to them. I also need to re-calibrate my MS8, the center image is slightly off to the left with the Nexus. I am also likely going to refine my Tasker profiles at some point.
The one issue I did have after going for a drive, was that the Nexus froze when I got home. I am 99.9% sure it was my fault though. When I was running wires, I had the battery disconnected, which caused my key-fob remote to be out of sync with the car. To sync it back up, you put it in the ignition, turn the ignition on, push the lock button, then turn the ignition off again. I did this in fairly quick sequence, which I think caused Tasker to lock up as it was still powering everything on, when I removed power again. I had to pop the dash trim off, and reboot using the power button. Working fine now though (still need to sync the key).
I drilled a larger hole today for my new USB cable (the hole is a mess as I had to use my Dremel, and there is 0 room to work there, especially as the tan piece to the right is a visible piece of the dash that I don't want to tear up):
What's annoying is that while USPS say my new cable has been delivered, it's not in my mailbox
Next thing I need to do is figure out a better way to make the Nexus sit flush against the bezel. I could tape it, but would prefer not to do that. In the first picture above, the blue box is around a piece that I glued some foam to, but it came off (I only used a small amount of glue). I may go this route again, the only other option is to try to fabricate some kind of hook system to the back of the bezel, but I am there is not much room on the back:
The advantage to making some kind of hook system though, is that it will likely hold the tablet nicely against the bezel, and make it a little easier for removal/installaiton. You can see in the bottom right of the bezel where I had to cut a section out, this kept pushing on the power / volume rocker when I was installing it in the car causing it to either end up muted, or power off.
I wish that cable were in my mailbox!! I might try to get things working in its current configuration at least for my drive to work tomorrow. Chances are I will get annoyed with it cutting out though, and give in.
Edit: So, just went down to the garage to take a look at things. Seems like I need a new OTG cable, I was looking at the male end of mine that would plug into the Nexus, and noticed it at a slight angle, if I touch it, I see it spark. Not sure if that's a result of it being a cheap Chinese cable, or the plug being pushed at an angle by the dash. Either way it means I am now having to find another OTG Y-cable, which I will be lucky to get before Monday. I may try to look inside at the pins, just to make sure there is not something that has fallen in there causing a short. But, at the same time am not sure I want to risk my equipment on it.
Thankfully I can use my phone to listen to music on the way to work and back.
Here is my awesome fix for getting rid of the gap:
Yes, that is elastic from some underwear. LOL. I did not want to buy some elastic if it did not work, so figured what the heck, use some elastic from some boxer shorts. Works perfectly, holds the Nexus up against the bezel, and is strong enough that I can hold onto the plastic with the Nexus in there, and it won't fall out.
The gap that is left though is due to a slight curvature in the bezel:
Currently I am not sure what to do about that piece, if I try to sand it flat then I essentially am going to have to sand the top and bottom lip away almost completely. I have a new trim piece coming that should match the interior a little better, not sure if that is curved or not yet though, if it is as well, I may just deal with that piece. When it's in the car it's not too bad, and I don't know that I want to eliminate the bottom/top lip to have that piece flat.
Also, since I don't think I posted this picture yet, here is the downward facing micro USB cable from usbfirewire.com:
Some new parts arrived today, first new trim piece, this matches the dash perfectly. I just hope I can get it to work as it seems deeper than my current one.
Also my Joycon arrived, with pre-shrunk heat shrink... LOL. We have had unseasonably warm temperature here the last 2 days (90F) so I think the heat shrink did what it was supposed to do.
Finally the CAN-BUS adapter arrived as well.
I am hoping to get the Joycon installed this evening
After getting the Joycon installed, I also went ahead and ended up ordering a DCDC-USB, I had been having various odd issues and it turns out that most of them were a combination of poor power, and poor connections. I created a pigtail to connect to the DCDC-USB that has 2 female USB ports, one of them provides power to the hub, the other to the Nexus. Also running a Jabra Journey to route phone calls through. Charging rate is awesome, my battery typically gets to full during a single drive to work, and remains full all week long. Here is how the Nexus currently sits in the dash:
And here is a launcher I am working on:
It's supposed to mimic the RNS-E, so far it's not quite where I want it to be as I want to use %MTRACK to have a basic text of what song is playing, and not use the current widget. Apart from that though I am pretty happy with it.
Next things to do are to try and program a button on my steering wheel to activate voice search on the Nexus, possibly a back up camera and that's about it really.
Pretty neat!
Very cool! You made me LOL when I saw the Hanes. :good:
bhess said:
Pretty neat!
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Thanks.
~wolverine~ said:
You made me LOL when I saw the Hanes. :good:
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Haha yep, that worked surprisingly well for holding the Nexus in place!
That looks pretty darn good man! From a fellow A4 owner (06 A4) I got stuck with the symphony II as well and was looking to upgrade to the RNS-E but I just don't know if i wanna pay that much, but i do prefer the OEM look over aftermarket. Looking how you got this thing set up and diggin the RNS look a like launcher, I might just need to get another nexus and have a side project. Subbed man! Will be willing to share the launcher? Keep us posted!
So what are you doing to keep your n7 from getting so hot in such a confined and unventilated space?
Awesome mate.:good:
Very nice build. A lot better than my setup in a 98 Dakota Sport (cheap eBay dock and an old droid 2)
Sent from my XT907 using xda premium
Freshtojeff said:
That looks pretty darn good man! From a fellow A4 owner (06 A4) I got stuck with the symphony II as well and was looking to upgrade to the RNS-E but I just don't know if i wanna pay that much, but i do prefer the OEM look over aftermarket. Looking how you got this thing set up and diggin the RNS look a like launcher, I might just need to get another nexus and have a side project. Subbed man! Will be willing to share the launcher? Keep us posted!
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I kept looking to upgrade to the RNS-E as well, but it's typically $800 cost, plus the wiring harness costs required put me off. I can definitely share the launcher, I am still working on it some, but as soon as I am happy with it can send you a copy. It's the 1st launcher I have put together, so a bit of trial and error at the moment. I would need to figure out a way to share it all as one thing, at the moment it's a combination of a background, and UCCW widgets. If nothing else, I can certainly help you getting it set up on your Nexus.
CreepyE said:
So what are you doing to keep your n7 from getting so hot in such a confined and unventilated space?
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Absolutely nothing, well, I put a sunshade up in my windshield, but that's it. So far I have had no issues with it, and that has been with the 100F+ temperatures that the inside of the car can see in the Virginia summer. I thought about modifying the A/C ductwork that runs behind/above the tablet, but at the moment see no real need to do so.
naiku said:
I kept looking to upgrade to the RNS-E as well, but it's typically $800 cost, plus the wiring harness costs required put me off. I can definitely share the launcher, I am still working on it some, but as soon as I am happy with it can send you a copy. It's the 1st launcher I have put together, so a bit of trial and error at the moment. I would need to figure out a way to share it all as one thing, at the moment it's a combination of a background, and UCCW widgets. If nothing else, I can certainly help you getting it set up on your Nexus.
Absolutely nothing, well, I put a sunshade up in my windshield, but that's it. So far I have had no issues with it, and that has been with the 100F+ temperatures that the inside of the car can see in the Virginia summer. I thought about modifying the A/C ductwork that runs behind/above the tablet, but at the moment see no real need to do so.
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Great work I installed one in my friend b6 a4
Good work on this Audi, seems original not custom made. Congratulations!
Excuse my ignorance, but the CAN-BUS adapter is used with the Joycon? The Joycon does not function as a steering wheel control on its own?
TampaChris said:
Excuse my ignorance, but the CAN-BUS adapter is used with the Joycon? The Joycon does not function as a steering wheel control on its own?
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The Joycon only reads resistance based signals, which CAN-BUS is not, so the adapter essentially takes the CAN-BUS signal and converts it into a resistance type signal that the Joycon is then able to interpret.
naiku said:
The Joycon only reads resistance based signals, which CAN-BUS is not, so the adapter essentially takes the CAN-BUS signal and converts it into a resistance type signal that the Joycon is then able to interpret.
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I just bought a joycon for my mazda 3. Do i need this adapter? i thought i can go from the steering wheel harness into the joycon into the USB hub. Will this not work?
Hey all! So as a bit of a computer/tablet/phone geek and and a bit of an RC Hobbyist, Ive decided to take on a little personal project to combine the two. At least a little bit to start. In the world of RC quadcopters (aka drones) the big thing that everyone is into is buying these expensive 1080P/4k go pros and other gimbal devices to record video. But not only do we want to record, we want to be able to view a live stream of what the drone sees. You can buy these FPV Cameras on the higher end for $500+.
When I bought ny first drone a fair sized flyer at nearly 2ft diameter, my first flight I decided to strap my old Galaxy S3 to the bottom and catch some cool video. Everything went well, and the video was high def and crystal clear. While there are FPV apps such as AirBoss available, unfortunately its a bit glitchy and crashes often so i didnt bother with FPV, just hit record and flew. After this I decided to start looking into purchasing a gimbal and maybe a gopro hero 3. Seems a bit silly buying a $400 camera to carry on a $100 drone, but I considered it and started browsing.
Before buying anything, I had a buddy want to see the drone fly, so on a semi full charge, I took it up, no phone attached, and after about a minute of flight, the battery went low, lost contact with the controller and helplessly watched it drift into the woods, still haven't found it.
So now instead of looking for an expensive camera, im looking to strip down my old s3 and use it as a camera, but also as a GPS locator, which will have data/gsm/gprs connections. The idea being, that not only a does screen less, make shift house, remotely controlled android device act as a camera, but it can be called from another phone (making it easy to track via sound) or worst case scenario be pin pointed on Google maps, in the event of another downed drone.
I have all the apps installed to make this work exactly how I need it to and want it to. In fact I already have the motherboard stripped out of the housing, and am able to do exactly what I want, except one thing.
The only way the phone will turn on, is with the main components from the screen housing plugged in. Its one ribbon, but its the ribbon the feeds the Screen, the digitizer the home, back and menu buttons and the micro phone and the vibrator pod. All of the components on the back side of the board, the front and rear facing cameras, the sim/tf card readers, the loud speaker, led, volume rocker etc can be disconected, as long as the main ribbon for the screen is attached, the motherboard will boot. After booting I can unplug the ribbon, and the phone will remain on, with everything working that I need to work, including remote access.
I guess the main question here is, how can I trick the phone into thinking the main ribbon is attached? Once I can get it to boot up without it being attached to that ribbon I can begin building a lightweight housing for the board and camer and a smaller battery. I thought about cutting the ribbon and just leaving it attached to the board, my only problem with that is IF it wont boot after doing that, I cant just repair the ribbon and I dont have a spare s3 for parts, which would pretty much leave me with nothing but a dead s3 in pieces lol.
I know most of what xda deals with is software development, but im hoping someone has tinkered with hard ware before. Sorry for the novel, just wanted to cover the details and eliminate getting asked why I want to do this. And for the record I want the s3 screen and housing gone for the simple fact that I can cut the weight from abouy 150 grams to less than 30 grams, which is a huge factor when flying quad copters