Database Develop

Allshare Cast dongle connection problems

Good news: I took adavantage of Samsung's 50% off special to pick up an Allshare dongle for $50.
Bad news: Can't get it working on my rooted TMO GNII.
This is what happens *every time* I try to connect (20-30 times)
Hooked up dongle to TV via HDMI. TV shows Allshare ready to connect on the screen.
With the red led flashing on dongle, I press the reset button and the led changes to solid blue.
On phone, try to connect with Allshare Cast utility.
Phone sees and connects to dongle.
Screen on TV changes to screen with black background and says connecting, but never gets any further and never shows the phone screen on the TV. (See attached image)
Connection is lost after 10 seconds and this message appears in a pop up on phone: "Current AllShare Cast connection will end."
Here's what I've tried so far. Each time getting the same result as described:
Updating Allshare Cast app from Play store.
In SuperSU app, unrooting phone by unchecking Enable Superuser.
Restoring stock T-Mobile rom from nandroid backup, with and without Superuser enabled.
Installing and running Triangle Away 3 times in a row. This got the flash counter down to 1, but not 0. Also shows Binary status: Custom.
In stock rom and with SU disabled, the phone downloaded and sent a firmware update to the dongle, but this update did not change results at all.
Hoping someone can give me something else to try. If not I may have to completely unroot and restore stock image to verify this works at all. Then go step by step through rooting, adding back Clockwork recovery, etc. to see where the Allshare connection gets broken.

Get the triangle away app. Reboot and enjoy. Theres a thread on getting this to work, and I can attest to it working cause im rooted custom rom and enjoying my allshare
Also try uninstalling triangle away and reinstalling. When you run the app does it reboot your phone for you? Mine does and thats when I know it works.
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

globen said:
Get the triangle away app. Reboot and enjoy. Theres a thread on getting this to work, and I can attest to it working cause im rooted custom rom and enjoying my allshare
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Already tried this, 3 times. Yes, it rebooted my phone. I wish it had worked for me! Will try uninstall/reinstall of TA as you suggest. So what rom/recovery are you using? When you do a Vol down/Home/Power button boot up, what does it say for your Counter and Binary Status?

Yup I'm seeing the same problem but with Wanam RIM.
Sent from a Toaster using XDA App

Had same problem. I could almost cut and paste your post OP. Its not root status, nor does a custom rom necessarily bugger allcast function; its the kernal. You currently cannot run any custom kernal and have allcast function. Triangle Away is powerless in the face of this vial DRM kernel menace.
You can mix and match or use some modded roms and you can debloat and/ or freeze much of your junk. When using triangle away for the allcast dongle TA activation must be done in a paticular sequence...
Chainfire gives detailed info in his "triangle away" thread. ( you've propbably found this already but if you haven't, then it is a must read.)
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2

vizographic said:
Had same problem. I could almost cut and paste your post OP. Its not root status, nor does a custom rom necessarily bugger allcast function; its the kernal. You currently cannot run any custom kernal and have allcast function. Triangle Away is powerless in the face of this vial DRM kernel menace.
You can mix and match or use some modded roms and you can debloat and/ or freeze much of your junk. When using triangle away for the allcast dongle TA activation must be done in a paticular sequence...
Chainfire gives detailed info in his "triangle away" thread. ( you've propbably found this already but if you haven't, then it is a must read.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So if I understand correctly, being rooted and having a custom ROM do *NOT* prevent the dongle connection from working. It's having a non-stock kernel that makes it not connect, is that correct? So in theory if I restore the stock rom from my nandroid backup, and correctly run TA, it should work fine? Now what about having a custom recovery? Does that have any effect on the Allshare dongle? I have Clockwork. Do I also need to restore the stock recovery?
Also, in the TA thread, I'm not seeing the part about "When using triangle away for the allcast dongle, TA activation must be done in a paticular sequence... " Could you please copy and paste that part into this thread? Thanks.

Yep, you got it right vouty. The kernal must be stock to connect allcast dongle. The rom can be modified stock or custom but your success may vary.
You can be rooted....and you can use custom recovery, I am using use twrp (cmw is said to also work).
[But if you use a custom recovery, my current understanding is that, your flash counter will be reset from 0 to 1 on a boot up. Take this with a grain of salt. ]
I refered to a sequence, sorry if I made it more complicated than necessary. Just reflash triangle away, and don't check the counter, if you do it will set counter back to one if you have a custom recovery. Hope this helps, the dongle works really well, you're going to like it.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2

vizographic said:
Yep, you got it right vouty. The kernal must be stock to connect allcast dongle. The rom can be modified stock or custom but your success may vary.
You can be rooted....and you can use custom recovery, I am using use twrp (cmw is said to also work).
[But if you use a custom recovery, my current understanding is that, your flash counter will be reset from 0 to 1 on a boot up. Take this with a grain of salt. ]
I refered to a sequence, sorry if I made it more complicated than necessary. Just reflash triangle away, and don't check the counter, if you do it will set counter back to one if you have a custom recovery. Hope this helps, the dongle works really well, you're going to like it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for getting back Vizo. So I got it working! I tried restoring the stock rom from nandroid, restoring the stock recovery, then running TA, but still didn't work. At that point I know I'm gonna have to do a full stock image restore and what I chose was this method from mrRobinson: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1975560
If you follow the simple steps, as written in the thread, this will fully restore stock ROM, recovery and wipe the Internal SD space putting your T-Mobile Note II back to perfect, out of box condition, with Device Status showing "Normal" and counter status as original... BUT PHONE IS ROOTED! And it does it all in just one easy step. Definitely owe mrRobinson a beer.
The dongle is now working with my phone and it is awesome! Already got Netflix streaming installed and working. Gotta hand it to Samsung. Allshare cast is a "Killer App"!!!
Only remaining issue is that I don't have a custom recovery, so no flashing any goodies like custom toggles, status bar mods, or 4.2 camera for now. Want to enjoy the Allshare goodness for awhile before I risk breaking it with Clockwork and TA not being able to fix it. Hoping Chainfire can work his magic on this issue and break the triangle's back permanently!

interesting to hear everyone's experiences with the dongle problem. i was having similar problems but had the luxury of testing out with my rooted t-mobile note II and wife's stock ATT note II. i was getting the exact same "connection will end message" on both phones. decided to change TV's and found that i was able to use the allsharecast dongle without any problems. didn't have to restore or change anything. worked right away after plugging in to different tv. i'm wondering if there may be some incompatibility with the HDMI signal or connection with the TV that could be contributing to dongle connection problems?

Disclaimer: troll post.
ok, here we go:
mochishiro said:
interesting to hear everyone's experiences with the dongle problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lmao. and
Super lmao:

Hi everyone. I get the same issue as Vouty.
vouty said:
This is what happens *every time* I try to connect (20-30 times) (...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My phone has never been rooted or changed - it is totally original, straight out of the box. I can't do anything to connect to this Dongle thing. Please help me if you can.

Hmm have you tried a different tv. It has worked on all the tv's I've tried mine on but some have reported that this can work...also just to clarify things did u run the update from the play store?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2

mjaz85 said:
Hi everyone. I get the same issue as Vouty.
My phone has never been rooted or changed - it is totally original, straight out of the box. I can't do anything to connect to this Dongle thing. Please help me if you can.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Things to check:
System settings>About device>Status - Scroll to last item, Device status. It should say "Normal." If it says anything else, like "modified," then it probably won't work.
Check everything is right with the dongle connections:
I would suggest using the HDMI cable that comes with the dongle, just to rule that out.
Ensure you are "pairing" correctly. The correct steps are to *FIRST* put the dongle in pairing mode. Start by unplugging the power and plug back in. Wait for the led on the dongle to start flashing red. Tap (do not long-press) the reset button. This should immediately make the led turn solid blue. It *will not* pair unless the led is solid blue. When the led is solid blue, the dongle is ready to pair. Now on the phone, pull down the notification bar and tap the Allshare toggle (it's way over on the right). It should see and connect to the dongle. Like bluetooth, you only need to pair the first time. After that, it will auto-connect everytime you toggle on Allshare and the dongle is in range.
Once I restored my GNII to factory stock, as I described, the pairing worked perfectly, the first time, and has been working ever since. Good luck!

vizographic said:
Hmm have you tried a different tv. It has worked on all the tv's I've tried mine on but some have reported that this can work...also just to clarify things did u run the update from the play store?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose anything is possible and that there could be TV's out there with old, non-compliant HDMI inputs. But if anyone was gonna have this issue, it would be me. My TV is a cruddy, 5 yr old Olevia 26" 720p hunk of junk from Frys. Yet every HDMI signal I've ever plugged in (Windows laptops, weird DVI-HDMI ebay media players, even my old HTC Sensation with an MHL adapter) have worked fine. Hoping Santa brings me a nice shiny new "ultra-thin" full HD resolution HDTV for XMAS!

Help Please
Got my Note 10.1 about a week ago along wıth AllShare Cast Dongle. Everything worked fine at first but after doıng a factory reset (which I was advısed to do by Samsung Support because of some dısappearing icons) I can connect but after about 2-5 minutes of video the pıcture freezes on both TV & Tablet . Get a message on tablet - Allshare connection is unstable - then - Current Allshare Cast Connection will end. The frozen pıcture on the screen then breaks up and goes to green screen.
If I try to connect at this stage Tablet cannot see the dongle (blue light on) & only way to get ıt seeıng ıt agaın ıs to take out power lead for a few minutes.
Unfortunately I am in Turkey at the moment so cannot go to Samsung Service Centre (language problems) so if anyone can give me any advice it would be much appreciated.
This is my fırst Android device and everything is stock. Still running ICS.

1st Have you applied the allshare cast update? There were a lot of reports of sketchy connection issues with the allshare dongle. The recent firmware update from the playstore seems to have fixed many of them.
2nd which phone are you on? You mention you are on ics. If its not the dongle it does complicate matters a bit, since I'm on jellybean. Still, If you can answer the first update question, and provide ,model ,make ,rooted and /or
non/stock plus kernel info, I'll do what I can to help.
3rd, Turkey! You traveling on business or pleasure? What are your impressions? Always wanted to travel out that way, find it a fascinating country as a serious history buff......
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2

vouty said:
System settings>About device>Status - Scroll to last item, Device status. It should say Normal.
I would suggest using the HDMI cable that comes with the dongle, just to rule that out.
Ensure you are "pairing" correctly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Everything is just as described above. Can't connect to my home TV but I've connected without any problems to different TV. Can the problems relate to WiFi settings? How is data transmitted between dongle and TV?

Thanks for your time Vizographic
Did mention in my post usıng Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1 Tablet. Received an update to dongle last nıght just before I posted, did not appear to make any difference. Just tried again and video ran for just under 5 minutes before connection stopped and reported unstable. Everything stock (have not played with anything apart from factory reset) Android Version 4.0.4 as have not yet received the upgrade to JB.
I now live in Turkey and have no intentions of movıng again - beautiful country, very friendly people (now have a Turkish wife) and a nice climate. If you are a history buff Ephesus about 1.5 hours away and Troy about 5 hour drive. Did not buy tablet here as electronics about double the price of the States.

uzumlubay, its seems I missed this detail, in the first sentence of your post....
"Did mention in my post usıng Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1 Tablet."
How sad is that? Well, i sure can't blame you if you ignore any of my proffered advice! My bad..lol. Ok, I've come up with two things you can try.
1st download wifi analyser free from the market. The dongle has it's own wifi built in, it will show up along with all the surrounding wifi routers and the channels they use. The app will detect and suggest optimum channel settings and highlight crowded channels. If the dongles channel is crowded it would display the issues your describing. It would be best if you could moniter the connection with your tablet on a second device, but either way it might help with figuring this out.
2nd,There have been a few posts on power supply to the dongle being fickle. If you haven't already, try a different power supply, one that puts out 5 volts...it seems to have worked for a few.
3rd, substitute the suppied hdmi cable with another one known to work well.There is at least one case, displaying connection issues very similar to yours, that turned out to be caused by a bad allcast cable.
4th "I now live in Turkey and have no intentions of movıng again - beautiful country, very friendly people (now have a Turkish wife) and a nice climate. If you are a history buff Ephesus about 1.5 hours away and Troy about 5 hour drive." If any of my half baked ideas solve your problem, I fully expect you to invite me to stay with ya'll in Turkey. ..and does your wife have any sister's
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2

Ok, finally my dongle started to work. How? I don't really know I changed again HDMI ports on my tv ... and it started to work like magic. So as info for all the others - just try everything you can: different hdmi ports, another hdmi cable, power source, other tv etc
Wysyłane z mojego GT-N7100 za pomocą Tapatalk 2

[Q] How can I tell what firmware my chromecast has?

I have just received a chromecast in its box. How can I tell what firmware is on the device? If it is still original firmware I'd like to root it. I didn't see this question posted elsewhere.

You must not allow the chromecast to connect to a wifi ssid / network which has Internet.
In my case, I had an old asus (dd-wrt) router laying around. I powered it up with nothing plugged into it. No rj45 cat 5/6 cables connected. Switched my phone wifi to this wireless ssid network. Ran the chromecast app, it found the chromecast, set up the chromecast to use this no Internet network by selecting it & typing in the router's password. After setting up the chromecast, the app shows the firmware version as being 12072.
If you allow the chromecast to connect to a wifi network which has Internet, then it will quickly auto update to a firmware version which can not currently be rooted

View attachment 2246393
It's tucked away a little in the chromecast app, but this should help some.
Arrow points to the firmware version location

Medicstud007 said:
I have just received a chromecast in its box. How can I tell what firmware is on the device? If it is still original firmware I'd like to root it. I didn't see this question posted elsewhere.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just get the chromcast app and select the chromecast u are using. Then look at pic below should be there.
Sent from the TermiNOTEr 2!

Thank you all my build is 12072 which means I can root it. I believe I saw a thread on here somewhere which gave more detailed instructions on how to root the device. Where is the correct file to flash to root the device without having to worry about pesky updates?

Medicstud007 said:
Thank you all my build is 12072 which means I can root it. I believe I saw a thread on here somewhere which gave more detailed instructions on how to root the device. Where is the correct file to flash to root the device without having to worry about pesky updates?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=45176635&postcount=133
I suggest you read the beginning few pages of the thread before flashing though.

Dying to know my fw version
Hello,
I've thoroughly read the instructions on how to root my Chromecast. Right after buying it, I set it up and I'm pretty much sure it got the official updates... so I ran to Best Buy to exchange it for a new one.
From thread comments, I know I have a shot at it having a vulnerable bootloader, now my problem is that OTG cables don't seem to exist where I live and I might have to go to Best Buy again to get one (long trip for a cable). Before I do that, I want to be certain that it'll work, but I cannot find where to see the build number. I somehow cannot get to the screen from the pictures.
I'm trying to set it up with a router that has no internet. Since this was a recommended method to check the build number, I thought it was possible, but so far I'm stuck with a message saying that ChromecastXXX connected to yournetwork, but cant access the internet..
At first I thought they had removed that from the Chromecast app, but I have installed the two older apks with the same results.
Could anyone tell me which step I'm missing?
I thought maybe I had this issue, but it's old and I was able to set up the previous Chromecast flawlessly.

keep on trying to make it connect even though there is no internet eventually it will give up and give you the number, thats who i got mine, it will say Chromecast XXX connected to network but cant access internet, and fail but then if you keep going it will eventually show you the build number.

BurnOmatic said:
keep on trying to make it connect even though there is no internet eventually it will give up and give you the number, thats who i got mine, it will say Chromecast XXX connected to network but cant access internet, and fail but then if you keep going it will eventually show you the build number.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ugh I did but it just times out and comes back to the same message. Perhaps it is a sign of a new firmware.

it will work dude eventually it will say that it went through even though clearly you havent got internet, and it will show the version number on the app , i did it through my pc not through the phone.

BurnOmatic said:
it will work dude eventually it will say that it went through even though clearly you havent got internet, and it will show the version number on the app , i did it through my pc not through the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!. Got it working now. Somehow it never worked at home but I tried it at work where internet is filtered through mac addresses and that did the trick. Unfortunately it has an updated bootloader.

Not sure how much this will help, but I just went to Best Buy to return the 2nd Chromecast I had bought, since it came with a firmware newer than 12072. When I had purchased my first one, I hadn't done any research on rooting a Chromecast yet, and unfortunately allowed it to receive Google's OTA update. Before returning it, I took a picture of the serial number, pictured below. Tonight I decided to just get a refund at first, but then decided to take one third and final stab at getting one with a vulnerable bootloader. Thankfully, I kept the picture of the first one's serial number, and used it to compare against all of the Chromecasts that Best Buy had in stock. I only found one that began with "390...", since my originally purchased one began with "3901...". I live about an hour away from the closest Best Buy, so I decided to ask someone in Geek Squad if I could test it out to make sure it had the old firmware on it. He checked with someone else and was given the go ahead. We didn't plug it into the HDMI port, but he allowed me to plug it in to the USB port on a TV. Using the powered OTG micro USB cable I got in the mail today and a FlashCast drive I had created, I held the Chromecast button down and plugged the micro USB cable into the Chromecast. I waited to see if it the red light would go away after about 9 seconds, and VOILA, it did. I'll soon officially test it out on my TV so that I can see if the FlashCast logo comes up on the screen, and I will report back.
EDIT: Sorry for the delay in reporting back. Looks like the 3rd time was a charm, and the Chromecast I purchased last finally worked. So it looks like it's safe to at least assume that Chromecasts with serial numbers that begin with at least "390", with a range between "3901..." and "3907..." may have vulnerable bootloaders. Not to say this is the end all be all if figuring this out, but the guesswork might be if some use for now, until all the old stock gets sold completely.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Damn. I bought my chrome cast the other day and allowed it to update without knowing any of these forums existed
sent from a LG-MS870 using Katana v3 ROM by GT

I picked up 2 chromecast's over the weekend from Best Buy (Mall of America). The first one had a 3Axxxxxxxx SN and was at 12940. The second one was a 39xxxxxx and was at 12072.
Versions with 12072 are still out there. Look for CC's with SN starting with 39 or 37.

guy4jesuschrist said:
Not sure how much this will help, but I just went to Best Buy to return the 2nd Chromecast I had bought, since it came with a firmware newer than 12072. When I had purchased my first one, I hadn't done any research on rooting a Chromecast yet, and unfortunately allowed it to receive Google's OTA update. Before returning it, I took a picture of the serial number, pictured below. Tonight I decided to just get a refund at first, but then decided to take one third and final stab at getting one with a vulnerable bootloader. Thankfully, I kept the picture of the first one's serial number, and used it to compare against all of the Chromecasts that Best Buy had in stock. I only found one that began with "390...", since my originally purchased one began with "3901...". I live about an hour away from the closest Best Buy, so I decided to ask someone in Geek Squad if I could test it out to make sure it had the old firmware on it. He checked with someone else and was given the go ahead. We didn't plug it into the HDMI port, but he allowed me to plug it in to the USB port on a TV. Using the powered OTG micro USB cable I got in the mail today and a FlashCast drive I had created, I held the Chromecast button down and plugged the micro USB cable into the Chromecast. I waited to see if it the red light would go away after about 9 seconds, and VOILA, it did. I'll soon officially test it out on my TV so that I can see if the FlashCast logo comes up on the screen, and I will report back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the delay in reporting back. Looks like the 3rd time was a charm, and the Chromecast I purchased last finally worked. So it looks like it's safe to at least assume that Chromecasts with serial numbers that begin with at least "390", with a range between "3901..." and "3907..." may have vulnerable bootloaders. Not to say this is the end all be all if figuring this out, but the guesswork might be if some use for now, until all the old stock gets sold completely.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

I can verify that 3904 "should" have the original firmware. Spent an hour looking for one, and another 45 minutes making sure that the Wifi, and my phone had no internet connection to them, and then trying to get it to connect fully, so I could see the firmware version. As soon as I switched from using the Chromecast app on my OG RAZR, to using it on my Nexus 7(2), it connected right away .It was the only one they had in the Best Buy near me, that was even close as far as serial numbers go. Time to get my brick..uhh. I mean, unlock on

I can verify that 3As all have newer firmware, thus can't be rooted. I tried two from my local Best Buy

Greetings:
I'm trying to connect without updating since I just got my CC but to no avail since yesterday!!
I'm doing the "no internet router" option but don't even see the "home screen" when I connect
the CC to my TV set!! All I see is few colored "dots"!!
Am I doing something wrong? or do I have a faulty CC?
Any input is much appreciated.
P.S= My phone is a Nexus 4
My CC's SN starts with 3805xxxxxxxxxxx

samteeee said:
Greetings:
I'm trying to connect without updating since I just got my CC but to no avail since yesterday!!
I'm doing the "no internet router" option but don't even see the "home screen" when I connect
the CC to my TV set!! All I see is few colored "dots"!!
Am I doing something wrong? or do I have a faulty CC?
Any input is much appreciated.
P.S= My phone is a Nexus 4
My CC's SN starts with 3805xxxxxxxxxxx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Little dots means you are in recovery mode.
Trying installing FlashCast and Custom ROM.
If you know the version is OK before you even connect it to a router and set it up you can setup the root!

mastermind278 said:
Little dots means you are in recovery mode.
Trying installing FlashCast and Custom ROM.
If you know the version is OK before you even connect it to a router and set it up you can setup the root!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I certainly didn't do anything to be on "Recovery" partition"!!
I'm not sure what my build/firmware is but I guess I can always
just try to go for "root" and see if it'll happen, right? I mean there
is no harm in that!! I'll get my OTG by Monday so I can try it.

[INFO] Rootable Serial Numbers

First ask yourself, do I need to root? Then come back to see if you have possibility to root.
See: Root Mini-FAQ: What's the big deal with root? and Why should I root?
For help with FlashCast, see the FlashCast: Quickly and easily mod your Chromecast thread and Rooting with FlashCast Mini-FAQ
For help with HubCap, see the HubCap Chromecast Root Release! thread.
For help with Flashcast-AutoRoot, see the Flashcast-AutoRoot thread.
Note: THANK YOU to all the folks who contributed reports to the first incarnation of this list. Your help made it possible for many other users to pick winners from their local stores. Now that we're in the second generation of root (and unrootability), it was time for a revamp.
At the core, it's not the serial number that determines whether a Chromecast is rootable, but rather the firmware build on it. However, because Chromecasts ship from the factory with a specific firmware build, we can use the serial number to predict whether a particular unit is rootable out of the box, or is unrootable because it has a firmware that is not vulnerable to known exploits.
Firmware builds >= 19084 are not rootable by current means.
Also, for Chromecast, "root" means to flash a rooted ROM that disables Google OTA updates. Any Google OTA update at this point will render a Chromecast unrootable, regardless of its serial number. If that didn't make sense, please reread the previous paragraph above.
Want root? Find your scenario below:
I KNOW MY FIRMWARE BUILD AND IT IS...
12072
-> Root with FlashCast or HubCap 12940 version
Greater than 12072, but less than 19084
-> Try root with HubCap 12940 version, if that doesn't work, try root with HubCap 16664 version
19084 or higher
-> Sorry, you're not rootable
I DON'T KNOW MY FIRMWARE BUILD BUT MY CHROMECAST IS...
NEW, UNOPENED, NOT USED, NOT REFURBISHED, NOT RECERTIFIED, NOT REPLACEMENT AND
NEVER CONNECTED TO INTERNET
AND ITS SERIAL NUMBER STARTS WITH...
3922 or lower (ie, 38AD, 371C, 3612, etc)
-> Root with FlashCast or HubCap 12940 version
3923 or 3924
-> Please determine your firmware build version without setting up and report it to me with your serial number before attempting root.
-> Build 12072 - Try root with FlashCast
-> Build less than 16664 - Try root with HubCap 12940 version
-> Build greater than 16664 but less than 19084 - Try root with HubCap 16664 version
-> Build 19084 or greater - you're not rootable. Are you sure you didn't get a used/refurbished/recertified/replacement unit??
3925-4A1F (MFG 10/2014 and earlier, or no MFG date on label)
-> Try root with HubCap 12940 version, if that doesn't work, try root with HubCap 16664 version
4A20-4B20 (MFG 9/2014 to MFG 11/2014)
Note: This range is in flux - I have a 4A27 that had 15098 and another user had a 4A29 with 15098, but one user had an unrootable 4A20 with 20472
-> Please determine your firmware build version without setting up and report it to me with your serial number before attempting root.
-> Try root with HubCap 12940 version, if that doesn't work, try root with HubCap 16664 version
4B21 and higher (MFG 11/2014 and newer)
-> Your Chromecast has firmware 20472 or newer and is not rootable.
-> If you determine your firmware build version without setting up is less than 20472, please report it to me with your serial.
SET UP BUT (CONTINUOUSLY) DISCONNECTED FROM INTERNET PRIOR TO AUGUST 1, 2013
-> Root with FlashCast or HubCap 12940 version
SET UP BUT (CONTINUOUSLY) DISCONNECTED FROM INTERNET PRIOR TO SEPTEMBER 4, 2014
-> Try root with HubCap 12940 version, if that doesn't work, try root with HubCap 16664 version
SET UP AND CONNECTED TO THE INTERNET SEPTEMBER 4, 2014 OR LATER
-> Your Chromecast auto-updated to firmware 19084 or newer and is not rootable.
REFURBISHED/RECERTIFIED/REPLACEMENT
-> Impossible to determine what build will be on the device.
-> Determine your firmware build version without setting up then proceed based on build number.
-> Build 12072 - Try root with FlashCast
-> Build less than 16664 - Try root with HubCap 12940 version
-> Build greater than 16664 but less than 19084 - Try root with HubCap 16664 version
-> Build 19084 or greater - you're not rootable.
Root method requirements:
FlashCast method
Firmware build 12072 (this exact build, no others) on Chromecast
Powered MicroUSB OTG cable
Compatible USB flash drive 256 MB or larger (most drives are compatible, a few are not, check the thread)
HubCap method
Firmware build 19084 or lower/older on Chromecast
Powered MicroUSB OTG cable
Teensy 2, Teensy 2++, compatible or similar device that has ported build (see the thread)
Compatible USB flash drive 256 MB or larger (most drives should be compatible, check the thread)
After you already have root via one of the above methods, you can install Flashcast-AutoRoot to stay current with updates while still preserving root.

FYI. Just tried 3812 which was already on 12940. Hence not rootable.
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

gaganit said:
FYI. Just tried 3812 which was already on 12940. Hence not rootable.
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uhoh, that kind of punches a hole in the serial number range theory...
Was this an online or retail store purchase?
And just to make sure, was it new and fresh out of the box, not set up or not connected to the Internet long enough to get an automatic update?

bhiga said:
Uhoh, that kind of punches a hole in the serial number range theory...
Was this an online or retail store purchase?
And just to make sure, was it new and fresh out of the box, not set up or not connected to the Internet long enough to get an automatic update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty sure the serial number theory works. He might have connected it online at some point. This is why I say open it out of the box and root (don't even bother setting it up), that way you won't have issues!

mastermind278 said:
Pretty sure the serial number theory works. He might have connected it online at some point. This is why I say open it out of the box and root (don't even bother setting it up), that way you won't have issues!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it updated wouldn't it be build 13300 instead of 12940? I guess somebody could have returned it after connecting to WiFi.

wptski said:
If it updated wouldn't it be build 13300 instead of 12940? I guess somebody could have returned it after connecting to WiFi.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's possible. Big box stores are not supposed to return opened products to the shelf, but sometimes they miss that it's been opened, or they sell it as an open box.

bhiga said:
It's possible. Big box stores are not supposed to return opened products to the shelf, but sometimes they miss that it's been opened, or they sell it as an open box.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There was one post here where they were allowed at Best Buy to check some CC to check if they'd flash. How was that done?

wptski said:
There was one post here where they were allowed at Best Buy to check some CC to check if they'd flash. How was that done?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I read that post yesterday while I was hunting for serials. It was guy4jesuschrist here.
He asked the Geek Squad agent who then asked someone else (likely the manager, as the product would then become an open-box, but perhaps they had space for another floor unit). It's at the manager's discretion, but I suspect most times they would be cool with it, especially if you're a My Best Buy Elite Plus member (formerly RewardZone Silver) because that means you shop there a lot.
Plus at $35 it's not like getting a return of a TV... But again, manager's discretion - and don't abuse the system, you will eventually get flagged for excessive returns.
So find a likely serial first, then check it - and if it works, honor your end of the deal and buy it.
Hmm... I guess for those in "root-dry" areas that are really desperate you might be able to talk a manager into letting you test and buy the display unit at regular price, assuming they used actual units and weren't provided demo/fakes. Or maybe exchange your working but non-rootable unit with the demo unit.

bhiga said:
I read that post yesterday while I was hunting for serials. It was guy4jesuschrist here.
He asked the Geek Squad agent who then asked someone else (likely the manager, as the product would then become an open-box, but perhaps they had space for another floor unit). It's at the manager's discretion, but I suspect most times they would be cool with it, especially if you're a My Best Buy Elite Plus member (formerly RewardZone Silver) because that means you shop there a lot.
Plus at $35 it's not like getting a return of a TV... But again, manager's discretion - and don't abuse the system, you will eventually get flagged for excessive returns.
So find a likely serial first, then check it - and if it works, honor your end of the deal and buy it.
Hmm... I guess for those in "root-dry" areas that are really desperate you might be able to talk a manager into letting you test and buy the display unit at regular price, assuming they used actual units and weren't provided demo/fakes. Or maybe exchange your working but non-rootable unit with the demo unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I found the post as well. I think flagging for excessive returns happens for clothing mostly, women purchase for one occasion and return it!
There wasn't any demo of the CC at my local Best Buy store when I just stopped to see if they had any. I found one 3916 amongst the 3A's which I buried. My nephew has been talking about one but not sure when.

I think it's both frequency and value figures... the return system does it automatically, so just be mindful. Not to mention returns, especially of non-defective products, hurt the store's numbers.

Correct. This was NIB purchased from Best Buy yesterday. The box did not look to have been opened previously. I thought I was lucky to find a 38 one. But oh well.
bhiga said:
Uhoh, that kind of punches a hole in the serial number range theory...
Was this an online or retail store purchase?
And just to make sure, was it new and fresh out of the box, not set up or not connected to the Internet long enough to get an automatic update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

I rooted a 3904 yesterday so you can fill in that gap.
Sent from my SCH-I535

Thanks for the info and report gaganit, hopefully you remain the sole exception to the rule.
Thanks also to dirtfoot for the report!

bhiga said:
Thanks for the info and report gaganit, hopefully you remain the sole exception to the rule.
Thanks also to dirtfoot for the report!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wonder if it's possible that it was returned back to Google where it was updated and repackaged for resale?

There seems to be no serial number printed on the outside of the Chromecast itself, unless it's in UV ink or something...
I'm not sure whether there are laws or manufacturing codes that prevent re-use of serial numbers.
Another possibility is the unit may have been produced, but recalled before shipment for some reason (maybe it didn't pass a QA check or someone thought something was missing from the box) and it was updated during the re-check. Since it never left Google's manufacturing, I think it could still be sold and packaged as new at that point. *shrug* The world may never know...

bhiga said:
There seems to be no serial number printed on the outside of the Chromecast itself, unless it's in UV ink or something...
I'm not sure whether there are laws or manufacturing codes that prevent re-use of serial numbers.
Another possibility is the unit may have been produced, but recalled before shipment for some reason (maybe it didn't pass a QA check or someone thought something was missing from the box) and it was updated during the re-check. Since it never left Google's manufacturing, I think it could still be sold and packaged as new at that point. *shrug* The world may never know...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A serial number could be in a file inside the CC.

wptski said:
A serial number could be in a file inside the CC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Code:
cat /factory/serial.txt
This will output the serial # of your device, but it must be rooted to run this command. You can use either telnet or SSH.
The chomecast box will also show the serial # on the sticker by the barcode.

bhiga said:
I read that post yesterday while I was hunting for serials. It was guy4jesuschrist here.
He asked the Geek Squad agent who then asked someone else (likely the manager, as the product would then become an open-box, but perhaps they had space for another floor unit). It's at the manager's discretion, but I suspect most times they would be cool with it, especially if you're a My Best Buy Elite Plus member (formerly RewardZone Silver) because that means you shop there a lot.
Plus at $35 it's not like getting a return of a TV... But again, manager's discretion - and don't abuse the system, you will eventually get flagged for excessive returns.
So find a likely serial first, then check it - and if it works, honor your end of the deal and buy it.
Hmm... I guess for those in "root-dry" areas that are really desperate you might be able to talk a manager into letting you test and buy the display unit at regular price, assuming they used actual units and weren't provided demo/fakes. Or maybe exchange your working but non-rootable unit with the demo unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I was allowed to test it, probably since it was my 3rd attempt and I live an hour away. They knew that I would buy it and try it anyways, so they allowed me to test it there to save me a trip. Thankfully it worked. Mine was probably a special case, but that's not to say that someone might run across a generous employee/manager who's willing to help. After he had already opened it and was in the process of getting it hooked up and ready to test, during my explanation of why I was trying to find an older firmware model, he did tell me that since it had been opened it couldn't be returned to the shelf and would he sent back to Google.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

ddggttff3 said:
The chomecast box will also show the serial # on the sticker by the barcode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. For non-root-able devices guess we just have to trust the serial number on the box, unless Google makes it visible in the Chromecast app.

3825 (rooted) purchased through Amazon when they were exporting to the UK.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Note 8 White Screen when restoring

So I got my Verizon Note 8 today.
Upon initial setup I get to the point where it asks me to pick device to restore information from.
As soon as I pick I get this screen ...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/suzr8j0uos3ftq9/2017-09-05 17.05.08.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fw5uozfohfk05g7/2017-09-05 17.20.51.mp4?dl=0
This is as far as it gets.
I can reboot and skip but then I am going to have to spend hours of configuring the phone.

dimitriz75 said:
So I got my Verizon Note 8 today.
Upon initial setup I get to the point where it asks me to pick device to restore information from.
As soon as I pick I get this screen ...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/suzr8j0uos3ftq9/2017-09-05 17.05.08.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fw5uozfohfk05g7/2017-09-05 17.20.51.mp4?dl=0
This is as far as it gets.
I can reboot and skip but then I am going to have to spend hours of configuring the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@dimitriz75 Are you sure you have a good wifi or data connection? I have only seen that if phone happened to go offline or was having connectivity issues.

DowntownRDB said:
@dimitriz75 Are you sure you have a good wifi or data connection? I have only seen that if phone happened to go offline or was having connectivity issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I definitely have a good WiFi signal. Also tried it at work and home within 5-15ft from a router.
Will try 4G.
Yep, looks like same thing with 4G (3-4bars).. grrr..

Ok, if I pick any other phone but my last one then I can get further to restore. Hmm....

Are you trying to do it over WiFi?
Use direct cable method. That's why Samsung included the USB-A to USB-C adapter.
Plug your stock Micro-USB cable into your old phone and put the USB-A to USB-C adapter on the other end and plug it into your Note.
Much faster and works every time.

rjohnstone said:
Are you trying to do it over WiFi?
Use direct cable method. That's why Samsung included the USB-A to USB-C adapter.
Plug your stock Micro-USB cable into your old phone and put the USB-A to USB-C adapter on the other end and plug it into your Note.
Much faster and works every time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That stuff works just fine, I was having a problem restoring account info from Google that Samsung Smart Switch doesn't transfer.

dimitriz75 said:
That stuff works just fine, I was having a problem restoring account info from Google that Samsung Smart Switch doesn't transfer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've never had much success transferring Google info from one phone to another.
Google associates a lot of the info to the device. Transferring it from device to device has always been a pain point for me.

sure u don't need a sim with an ACTIVE account. when I sold my note 5 to someone he tried to say I sold him a bogus phone becuz he tried to use WIFI and his account .. but low and behold he was gonna send it to his friend in Mexico and try to use it as an unlocked device once he got into the device even though it was a AT&T only phone. I advised him he better have AT&T and use his SIM to unlock the device he said NO IT WILL FRY MY SIM CARD lol
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using XDA-Developers Legacy app

rjohnstone said:
Are you trying to do it over WiFi?
Use direct cable method. That's why Samsung included the USB-A to USB-C adapter.
Plug your stock Micro-USB cable into your old phone and put the USB-A to USB-C adapter on the other end and plug it into your Note.
Much faster and works every time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will direct cable also restore the apps from the previous phone?

pedmond said:
Will direct cable also restore the apps from the previous phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately no. Or should I say, not the last version of the transfer software I used. (About a year ago)
Not sure if Samsung added that to the current version.
The version I used will transfer the user's app data, but not the app itself.

dimitriz75 said:
Ok, if I pick any other phone but my last one then I can get further to restore. Hmm....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you find a solution for this?
I'm having the same issue on my new phone.

pbelcomp said:
Did you find a solution for this?
I'm having the same issue on my new phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried just about everything without any success.
Just gave up and restored one of my other phones and now manually have to resetup everything.
Just for tracking what phone are to you having a problem importing from? I am going from Samsung Galaxy S7e.

dimitriz75 said:
I've tried just about everything without any success.
Just gave up and restored one of my other phones and now manually have to resetup everything.
Just for tracking what phone are to you having a problem importing from? I am going from Samsung Galaxy S7e.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GS8+
I picked don't restore for that part and I restored from Samsung instead and it did a pretty good job putting my phone close to what I had.

How do you restore from Samsung? Smart Switch?

dimitriz75 said:
How do you restore from Samsung? Smart Switch?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it's Samsung Cloud.
I find it under Settings>Cloud and accounts>Samsung Cloud
I have been using it for a while and it restored all my apps, home screens, txts and such.

pbelcomp said:
No, it's Samsung Cloud.
I find it under Settings>Cloud and accounts>Samsung Cloud
I have been using it for a while and it restored all my apps, home screens, txts and such.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, nice.
Unfortunately I am on Verizon and they decided that Samsung Cloud is not good for me. lol

I am having the exact same problem on T-Mobile. I start setup and get to where it asks if you want to restore from the last device the account, I choose my Note 4 that I have been using and it goes to a blank screen and at that point all you can do is restart. Spoke to both T-Mobile (had no clue what issue is) and Samsung and they had me do factory reset which did not help. So I bypassed and used Smart Switch but it did not restore some things that the Google restore does. Will see if I can find a solution otherwise the phone will go back.

Same problem with my AT&T note 8. After 4-5 tries, I decided to manually restore the the apps. The texts and call data was stored on AT&T cloud. I was coming from LG V20

I ran into the same problem, But I had an old backup saved. So I don't know if that affected anything. so I guess when my screen protector drys I will try it again.

Isn't it a part of Android OS that causes the while screen? I am thinking it's more of a bug on Google's part that sees something in that profile and causes the while/black screen?

Cannot get USB MTP to work on T-Mobile SM-G781U

Hi, I really hate to make a new thread, but I just cannot get this darn thing to connect to my PC. I had a G900A (S5) for over 4 years, rooted w/custom rom. I had/have a G935F rooted with SMan custom rom on Android 8. They both work fine (well S5 died a bit ago...LOL). I downloaded the newest Samsung USB driver, which installed fine and the G935F still works. I tried it both on my W7 Pro desktop and W10 Home laptop.
But this damn S20 will absolutely not connect (using same cables on both, except of course the S20 uses USB-C). This THING is on Android 11 (sucks to holy hell). I enabled the Developers Option and enabled USB Debugging and then changed the USB Default config from Charge Only to "Transferring files" and still NOTHING (of course I can say that it Does charge).
I have looked Everywhere. Called useless T-Mobile and they did not know. I got it on Friday and going to the store Monday. Can anyone solve this and save me a trip or do you think something is wrong with the hardware (it's brand new out of the box)?
THANKS!

does windows recognise that a phone is plugged in or not. use the original cable if you're not and swap which USB ports you try on the PC/laptop.
there is supposed to be an issue where MTP screws up large file transfers but it still recognises the phone.

samccfl99 said:
I downloaded the newest Samsung USB driver, which installed fine and the G935F still works. I tried it both on my W7 Pro desktop and W10 Home laptop.
But this damn S20 will absolutely not connect (using same cables on both, except of course the S20 uses USB-C). This THING is on Android 11 (sucks to holy hell).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was it v1.7.43 and did you remove 'any' old driver versions before installing -
- https://developer.samsung.com/mobile/android-usb-driver.html
And when plugging in the phone for the first time you may have gotten a prompt to allow access, if different/more annoying under Android 11 afaik.
And on a different but Android 11 front, can I ask what bits sucked or were different to 10 for you on this device?

b1k3rdude said:
Was it v1.7.43 and did you remove 'any' old driver versions before installing -
- https://developer.samsung.com/mobile/android-usb-driver.html
And when plugging in the phone for the first time you may have gotten a prompt to allow access, if different/more annoying under Android 11 afaik.
And on a different but Android 11 front, can I ask what bits sucked or were different to 10 for you on this device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Hey, did you mean to quote without replying..?

Hi, I said I installed the newest (that is the version) and did it before I even got the phone and my 935F worked fine. But no, I did not uninstall the old one. It knew it was there and it did it. I have updated the driver the same way in the past and both the 900A and 935F always worked.
Also I think I said what versions I had on both phones, which were android 4 + 5 on the 900A and 7 + 8 on the 935F.
It NEVER asked me Anything Anytime I plugged it in.
I could actually live with this phone (made so cheap, by the way), if I could just get into it and complete putting my files on it. Also THIS phone is draining battery a bit Because I can't root it to get rid of whatever bloatware crap is on it (any suggestions on that?).
Plus I don't like all the crazy crap it displays and does. ALSO, CAN THEY KEEP MAKING THE CLEAR BUTTON EVEN SMALLER???
Attached is a pic of my beloved S5 BEFORE GOOGLEY SCREWED UP ANDROID, THAT THEY CREATED TO BEGIN WITH...Grrrrrrrrrrr...THOSE WERE THE GOOD OLE DAYS OF REAL ANDROID...LOL.
Thanks anyway for the reply!
PS, sorry I been away from the forum for a while. Things are a bit different now! Sorry, b1k3rdude!

3mel said:
does windows recognise that a phone is plugged in or not. use the original cable if you're not and swap which USB ports you try on the PC/laptop.
there is supposed to be an issue where MTP screws up large file transfers but it still recognises the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I did try the same "extension" cables and ports that I used for the 935F, but I had a USB-C laying around for my bluetooth and used that and never thought to use the original cable that came with the box (still in the box). It Never recognized the phone ever. I will try that...If it works I am going to bang my head against the wall because I spent hours trying it and researching it and even uploaded certain files to my google drive just to get them to the new phone (I Was Determined)!!!
I will try it and edit this with the results. Thanks!!!
Son of a B*tch, that worked! The cable that came with the BT did not work, but the original one did right away. I did not know that it installs separate drivers for different phones! It installed all the drivers and the phone asked for permission and Voila! Even worked with my old USB extension cable. I never would have thought of that.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! See, when I got up I went to look to see if anyone answered before I even took my pills and etc...Now back to all the disastrous news. I am a H Andrew "victim" and feel bad for the people of LA, and of course what happened in Afghanistan. So off to the News...
Also may I ask what is so special about the cable that came with the phone as opposed to the one I used from my BT??? Thanks!

So on another note, any tips on how to get around all the crap of UNROOTED Android 11?
Also, do any of these rooting threads really work on this US version of the phone? For sure this darn BL is locked. I did find a procedure to tell. A bit complicated (for me), but now that I can get into the phone, I can surely try.
Also I miss my Viper for great sound. Anyone know how to replace it with something if I can't get this rooted? AND WHERE THE HELL IS THE HEADPHONE JACK??? LOL. Plus, do you know how long it took me to figure out how to just get a screenshot on this THING??? JEEZ!
We switched to T-Mobile from ATT and this phone cost me Only $99 over 24 months + $49 tax, while the other 3 on the family plan got their usual rotten apple (I-12's) for free plus tax. I Refuse to get one, but I am an old time programmer and can't see my way to a rotten apple...yet...LOL
Thanks, Sam in FL
Also, I must say that this 5G here actually works in spots (not in my condo though). I got over 500 Down and 49 Up near me, then got depressed when it did not do that in my condo, but I got wifi anyway and who really needs that much down anyway???

Samsung's cables designed for data transfer and flashing are not the same as off the shelf data transfer cables (unless it's made by a decent manufacturer like Anker).
for getting rid of the crap apps, look up ADB debloat threads for Samsung phones, the newer the better, one close enough like S20 or S21 will do.

3mel said:
for getting rid of the crap apps, look up ADB debloat threads for Samsung phones, the newer the better, one close enough like S20 or S21 will do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are some S20FE specific ones in this S20FE section.