First ask yourself, do I need to root? Then come back to see if you have possibility to root.
See: Root Mini-FAQ: What's the big deal with root? and Why should I root?
For help with FlashCast, see the FlashCast: Quickly and easily mod your Chromecast thread and Rooting with FlashCast Mini-FAQ
For help with HubCap, see the HubCap Chromecast Root Release! thread.
For help with Flashcast-AutoRoot, see the Flashcast-AutoRoot thread.
Note: THANK YOU to all the folks who contributed reports to the first incarnation of this list. Your help made it possible for many other users to pick winners from their local stores. Now that we're in the second generation of root (and unrootability), it was time for a revamp.
At the core, it's not the serial number that determines whether a Chromecast is rootable, but rather the firmware build on it. However, because Chromecasts ship from the factory with a specific firmware build, we can use the serial number to predict whether a particular unit is rootable out of the box, or is unrootable because it has a firmware that is not vulnerable to known exploits.
Firmware builds >= 19084 are not rootable by current means.
Also, for Chromecast, "root" means to flash a rooted ROM that disables Google OTA updates. Any Google OTA update at this point will render a Chromecast unrootable, regardless of its serial number. If that didn't make sense, please reread the previous paragraph above.
Want root? Find your scenario below:
I KNOW MY FIRMWARE BUILD AND IT IS...
12072
-> Root with FlashCast or HubCap 12940 version
Greater than 12072, but less than 19084
-> Try root with HubCap 12940 version, if that doesn't work, try root with HubCap 16664 version
19084 or higher
-> Sorry, you're not rootable
I DON'T KNOW MY FIRMWARE BUILD BUT MY CHROMECAST IS...
NEW, UNOPENED, NOT USED, NOT REFURBISHED, NOT RECERTIFIED, NOT REPLACEMENT AND
NEVER CONNECTED TO INTERNET
AND ITS SERIAL NUMBER STARTS WITH...
3922 or lower (ie, 38AD, 371C, 3612, etc)
-> Root with FlashCast or HubCap 12940 version
3923 or 3924
-> Please determine your firmware build version without setting up and report it to me with your serial number before attempting root.
-> Build 12072 - Try root with FlashCast
-> Build less than 16664 - Try root with HubCap 12940 version
-> Build greater than 16664 but less than 19084 - Try root with HubCap 16664 version
-> Build 19084 or greater - you're not rootable. Are you sure you didn't get a used/refurbished/recertified/replacement unit??
3925-4A1F (MFG 10/2014 and earlier, or no MFG date on label)
-> Try root with HubCap 12940 version, if that doesn't work, try root with HubCap 16664 version
4A20-4B20 (MFG 9/2014 to MFG 11/2014)
Note: This range is in flux - I have a 4A27 that had 15098 and another user had a 4A29 with 15098, but one user had an unrootable 4A20 with 20472
-> Please determine your firmware build version without setting up and report it to me with your serial number before attempting root.
-> Try root with HubCap 12940 version, if that doesn't work, try root with HubCap 16664 version
4B21 and higher (MFG 11/2014 and newer)
-> Your Chromecast has firmware 20472 or newer and is not rootable.
-> If you determine your firmware build version without setting up is less than 20472, please report it to me with your serial.
SET UP BUT (CONTINUOUSLY) DISCONNECTED FROM INTERNET PRIOR TO AUGUST 1, 2013
-> Root with FlashCast or HubCap 12940 version
SET UP BUT (CONTINUOUSLY) DISCONNECTED FROM INTERNET PRIOR TO SEPTEMBER 4, 2014
-> Try root with HubCap 12940 version, if that doesn't work, try root with HubCap 16664 version
SET UP AND CONNECTED TO THE INTERNET SEPTEMBER 4, 2014 OR LATER
-> Your Chromecast auto-updated to firmware 19084 or newer and is not rootable.
REFURBISHED/RECERTIFIED/REPLACEMENT
-> Impossible to determine what build will be on the device.
-> Determine your firmware build version without setting up then proceed based on build number.
-> Build 12072 - Try root with FlashCast
-> Build less than 16664 - Try root with HubCap 12940 version
-> Build greater than 16664 but less than 19084 - Try root with HubCap 16664 version
-> Build 19084 or greater - you're not rootable.
Root method requirements:
FlashCast method
Firmware build 12072 (this exact build, no others) on Chromecast
Powered MicroUSB OTG cable
Compatible USB flash drive 256 MB or larger (most drives are compatible, a few are not, check the thread)
HubCap method
Firmware build 19084 or lower/older on Chromecast
Powered MicroUSB OTG cable
Teensy 2, Teensy 2++, compatible or similar device that has ported build (see the thread)
Compatible USB flash drive 256 MB or larger (most drives should be compatible, check the thread)
After you already have root via one of the above methods, you can install Flashcast-AutoRoot to stay current with updates while still preserving root.
FYI. Just tried 3812 which was already on 12940. Hence not rootable.
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
gaganit said:
FYI. Just tried 3812 which was already on 12940. Hence not rootable.
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uhoh, that kind of punches a hole in the serial number range theory...
Was this an online or retail store purchase?
And just to make sure, was it new and fresh out of the box, not set up or not connected to the Internet long enough to get an automatic update?
bhiga said:
Uhoh, that kind of punches a hole in the serial number range theory...
Was this an online or retail store purchase?
And just to make sure, was it new and fresh out of the box, not set up or not connected to the Internet long enough to get an automatic update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty sure the serial number theory works. He might have connected it online at some point. This is why I say open it out of the box and root (don't even bother setting it up), that way you won't have issues!
mastermind278 said:
Pretty sure the serial number theory works. He might have connected it online at some point. This is why I say open it out of the box and root (don't even bother setting it up), that way you won't have issues!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it updated wouldn't it be build 13300 instead of 12940? I guess somebody could have returned it after connecting to WiFi.
wptski said:
If it updated wouldn't it be build 13300 instead of 12940? I guess somebody could have returned it after connecting to WiFi.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's possible. Big box stores are not supposed to return opened products to the shelf, but sometimes they miss that it's been opened, or they sell it as an open box.
bhiga said:
It's possible. Big box stores are not supposed to return opened products to the shelf, but sometimes they miss that it's been opened, or they sell it as an open box.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There was one post here where they were allowed at Best Buy to check some CC to check if they'd flash. How was that done?
wptski said:
There was one post here where they were allowed at Best Buy to check some CC to check if they'd flash. How was that done?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I read that post yesterday while I was hunting for serials. It was guy4jesuschrist here.
He asked the Geek Squad agent who then asked someone else (likely the manager, as the product would then become an open-box, but perhaps they had space for another floor unit). It's at the manager's discretion, but I suspect most times they would be cool with it, especially if you're a My Best Buy Elite Plus member (formerly RewardZone Silver) because that means you shop there a lot.
Plus at $35 it's not like getting a return of a TV... But again, manager's discretion - and don't abuse the system, you will eventually get flagged for excessive returns.
So find a likely serial first, then check it - and if it works, honor your end of the deal and buy it.
Hmm... I guess for those in "root-dry" areas that are really desperate you might be able to talk a manager into letting you test and buy the display unit at regular price, assuming they used actual units and weren't provided demo/fakes. Or maybe exchange your working but non-rootable unit with the demo unit.
bhiga said:
I read that post yesterday while I was hunting for serials. It was guy4jesuschrist here.
He asked the Geek Squad agent who then asked someone else (likely the manager, as the product would then become an open-box, but perhaps they had space for another floor unit). It's at the manager's discretion, but I suspect most times they would be cool with it, especially if you're a My Best Buy Elite Plus member (formerly RewardZone Silver) because that means you shop there a lot.
Plus at $35 it's not like getting a return of a TV... But again, manager's discretion - and don't abuse the system, you will eventually get flagged for excessive returns.
So find a likely serial first, then check it - and if it works, honor your end of the deal and buy it.
Hmm... I guess for those in "root-dry" areas that are really desperate you might be able to talk a manager into letting you test and buy the display unit at regular price, assuming they used actual units and weren't provided demo/fakes. Or maybe exchange your working but non-rootable unit with the demo unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I found the post as well. I think flagging for excessive returns happens for clothing mostly, women purchase for one occasion and return it!
There wasn't any demo of the CC at my local Best Buy store when I just stopped to see if they had any. I found one 3916 amongst the 3A's which I buried. My nephew has been talking about one but not sure when.
I think it's both frequency and value figures... the return system does it automatically, so just be mindful. Not to mention returns, especially of non-defective products, hurt the store's numbers.
Correct. This was NIB purchased from Best Buy yesterday. The box did not look to have been opened previously. I thought I was lucky to find a 38 one. But oh well.
bhiga said:
Uhoh, that kind of punches a hole in the serial number range theory...
Was this an online or retail store purchase?
And just to make sure, was it new and fresh out of the box, not set up or not connected to the Internet long enough to get an automatic update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I rooted a 3904 yesterday so you can fill in that gap.
Sent from my SCH-I535
Thanks for the info and report gaganit, hopefully you remain the sole exception to the rule.
Thanks also to dirtfoot for the report!
bhiga said:
Thanks for the info and report gaganit, hopefully you remain the sole exception to the rule.
Thanks also to dirtfoot for the report!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wonder if it's possible that it was returned back to Google where it was updated and repackaged for resale?
There seems to be no serial number printed on the outside of the Chromecast itself, unless it's in UV ink or something...
I'm not sure whether there are laws or manufacturing codes that prevent re-use of serial numbers.
Another possibility is the unit may have been produced, but recalled before shipment for some reason (maybe it didn't pass a QA check or someone thought something was missing from the box) and it was updated during the re-check. Since it never left Google's manufacturing, I think it could still be sold and packaged as new at that point. *shrug* The world may never know...
bhiga said:
There seems to be no serial number printed on the outside of the Chromecast itself, unless it's in UV ink or something...
I'm not sure whether there are laws or manufacturing codes that prevent re-use of serial numbers.
Another possibility is the unit may have been produced, but recalled before shipment for some reason (maybe it didn't pass a QA check or someone thought something was missing from the box) and it was updated during the re-check. Since it never left Google's manufacturing, I think it could still be sold and packaged as new at that point. *shrug* The world may never know...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A serial number could be in a file inside the CC.
wptski said:
A serial number could be in a file inside the CC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Code:
cat /factory/serial.txt
This will output the serial # of your device, but it must be rooted to run this command. You can use either telnet or SSH.
The chomecast box will also show the serial # on the sticker by the barcode.
bhiga said:
I read that post yesterday while I was hunting for serials. It was guy4jesuschrist here.
He asked the Geek Squad agent who then asked someone else (likely the manager, as the product would then become an open-box, but perhaps they had space for another floor unit). It's at the manager's discretion, but I suspect most times they would be cool with it, especially if you're a My Best Buy Elite Plus member (formerly RewardZone Silver) because that means you shop there a lot.
Plus at $35 it's not like getting a return of a TV... But again, manager's discretion - and don't abuse the system, you will eventually get flagged for excessive returns.
So find a likely serial first, then check it - and if it works, honor your end of the deal and buy it.
Hmm... I guess for those in "root-dry" areas that are really desperate you might be able to talk a manager into letting you test and buy the display unit at regular price, assuming they used actual units and weren't provided demo/fakes. Or maybe exchange your working but non-rootable unit with the demo unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I was allowed to test it, probably since it was my 3rd attempt and I live an hour away. They knew that I would buy it and try it anyways, so they allowed me to test it there to save me a trip. Thankfully it worked. Mine was probably a special case, but that's not to say that someone might run across a generous employee/manager who's willing to help. After he had already opened it and was in the process of getting it hooked up and ready to test, during my explanation of why I was trying to find an older firmware model, he did tell me that since it had been opened it couldn't be returned to the shelf and would he sent back to Google.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
ddggttff3 said:
The chomecast box will also show the serial # on the sticker by the barcode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. For non-root-able devices guess we just have to trust the serial number on the box, unless Google makes it visible in the Chromecast app.
3825 (rooted) purchased through Amazon when they were exporting to the UK.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
Related
Has anyone seen in the news the electronic readers the government is using which is capable of illegally stealing all private information from any type of smart phone?
Can anybody create a mod that will block a device like this from being used on the Nexus one?
http://www.prisonplanet.com/cops-us...l-cellphone-data-from-innocent-americans.html
Do you really believe what you read?
Say, 16GB of photos&data on iPhone, 1.5 minutes, count required transfer rate - quite simple - and then tell me, what kind of wireless connectivity does this "device" use to "steal data from unsuspecting people"?
Then ask yourself the first question again.
Now, if you look up the stated device's manufacturer site, http://www.cellebrite.com/forensic-products.html, you'll see that even in their photos it's perfectly clear this device has to be connected by wire to the phone. Does anyone in their right mind willingly connect the phone by USB to some device with unknown functionality? In that case, no, the data can't be protected.
Now, if you go even one more step further, and open the "supported devices" catalog on the site, you'll see that the only thing that can be done wireless to the iPhone is extracting phonebook - and I'm not sure about the requirement to allow the BT connection - but if you look up Nexus One, you'll see that it definitely has to be attached by wire to do anything with it.
And now back to the first question: do you believe everything you read?
Jack_R1 said:
Do you really believe what you read?
Say, 16GB of photos&data on iPhone, 1.5 minutes, count required transfer rate - quite simple - and then tell me, what kind of wireless connectivity does this "device" use to "steal data from unsuspecting people"?
Then ask yourself the first question again.
Now, if you look up the stated device's manufacturer site, http://www.cellebrite.com/forensic-products.html, you'll see that even in their photos it's perfectly clear this device has to be connected by wire to the phone. Does anyone in their right mind willingly connect the phone by USB to some device with unknown functionality? In that case, no, the data can't be protected.
Now, if you go even one more step further, and open the "supported devices" catalog on the site, you'll see that the only thing that can be done wireless to the iPhone is extracting phonebook - and I'm not sure about the requirement to allow the BT connection - but if you look up Nexus One, you'll see that it definitely has to be attached by wire to do anything with it.
And now back to the first question: do you believe everything you read?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But, it's on the internet, why would the internet lie? Are you calling the internet a liar?
I believe that if you soak your phone in warm, salty water overnight it will block this device - haven't tried though, so I can't confirm...
Umm... those Cellebrite devices are very real, and Michigan police are/were using them. The have the ability to pull the data off of thousands of different types of phones, over USB. I've never see Android specifically listed on their site, but I'd be willing to bet their devices can pull data from Android too.
That being said, I can't believe people are handing over their phones. This whole thing stinks of illegal search and seizure. But, they're getting away with it by saying the person willingly handed over their phone (even though I'd bet they're being coerced), There would be absolutely no way I'd hand my phone over to any LEO with out seeing a warrant first.
I was just mulling this over in my head... and I think the only way to block something like this would be to disable the data port on the phone. What that would involve from a software stand-point, I have no idea, and may not even be possible with how the hardware/software is designed... but that is basically the only way I'd see it to be possible.
Removing the USB driver (device functions) from the kernel would be enough, I believe.
In order for adb to work, you have to enable usb debugging. Wouldn't that be a requirement with this device, also?
ok just because I pulled this from prison planet doesn't mean its not true, it was the most convenient link at the time and hours later it was on front page of yahoo and all the major news sites. it would be easy for a police man to take your phone from you and hook it up to whatever they want.
Yep, saw it tonight on NBC Nightly News with Brian Williams. Looks scary with some cops not using warrants to get your phone on a traffic stop...
I have just received a chromecast in its box. How can I tell what firmware is on the device? If it is still original firmware I'd like to root it. I didn't see this question posted elsewhere.
You must not allow the chromecast to connect to a wifi ssid / network which has Internet.
In my case, I had an old asus (dd-wrt) router laying around. I powered it up with nothing plugged into it. No rj45 cat 5/6 cables connected. Switched my phone wifi to this wireless ssid network. Ran the chromecast app, it found the chromecast, set up the chromecast to use this no Internet network by selecting it & typing in the router's password. After setting up the chromecast, the app shows the firmware version as being 12072.
If you allow the chromecast to connect to a wifi network which has Internet, then it will quickly auto update to a firmware version which can not currently be rooted
View attachment 2246393
It's tucked away a little in the chromecast app, but this should help some.
Arrow points to the firmware version location
Medicstud007 said:
I have just received a chromecast in its box. How can I tell what firmware is on the device? If it is still original firmware I'd like to root it. I didn't see this question posted elsewhere.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just get the chromcast app and select the chromecast u are using. Then look at pic below should be there.
Sent from the TermiNOTEr 2!
Thank you all my build is 12072 which means I can root it. I believe I saw a thread on here somewhere which gave more detailed instructions on how to root the device. Where is the correct file to flash to root the device without having to worry about pesky updates?
Medicstud007 said:
Thank you all my build is 12072 which means I can root it. I believe I saw a thread on here somewhere which gave more detailed instructions on how to root the device. Where is the correct file to flash to root the device without having to worry about pesky updates?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=45176635&postcount=133
I suggest you read the beginning few pages of the thread before flashing though.
Dying to know my fw version
Hello,
I've thoroughly read the instructions on how to root my Chromecast. Right after buying it, I set it up and I'm pretty much sure it got the official updates... so I ran to Best Buy to exchange it for a new one.
From thread comments, I know I have a shot at it having a vulnerable bootloader, now my problem is that OTG cables don't seem to exist where I live and I might have to go to Best Buy again to get one (long trip for a cable). Before I do that, I want to be certain that it'll work, but I cannot find where to see the build number. I somehow cannot get to the screen from the pictures.
I'm trying to set it up with a router that has no internet. Since this was a recommended method to check the build number, I thought it was possible, but so far I'm stuck with a message saying that ChromecastXXX connected to yournetwork, but cant access the internet..
At first I thought they had removed that from the Chromecast app, but I have installed the two older apks with the same results.
Could anyone tell me which step I'm missing?
I thought maybe I had this issue, but it's old and I was able to set up the previous Chromecast flawlessly.
keep on trying to make it connect even though there is no internet eventually it will give up and give you the number, thats who i got mine, it will say Chromecast XXX connected to network but cant access internet, and fail but then if you keep going it will eventually show you the build number.
BurnOmatic said:
keep on trying to make it connect even though there is no internet eventually it will give up and give you the number, thats who i got mine, it will say Chromecast XXX connected to network but cant access internet, and fail but then if you keep going it will eventually show you the build number.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ugh I did but it just times out and comes back to the same message. Perhaps it is a sign of a new firmware.
it will work dude eventually it will say that it went through even though clearly you havent got internet, and it will show the version number on the app , i did it through my pc not through the phone.
BurnOmatic said:
it will work dude eventually it will say that it went through even though clearly you havent got internet, and it will show the version number on the app , i did it through my pc not through the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!. Got it working now. Somehow it never worked at home but I tried it at work where internet is filtered through mac addresses and that did the trick. Unfortunately it has an updated bootloader.
Not sure how much this will help, but I just went to Best Buy to return the 2nd Chromecast I had bought, since it came with a firmware newer than 12072. When I had purchased my first one, I hadn't done any research on rooting a Chromecast yet, and unfortunately allowed it to receive Google's OTA update. Before returning it, I took a picture of the serial number, pictured below. Tonight I decided to just get a refund at first, but then decided to take one third and final stab at getting one with a vulnerable bootloader. Thankfully, I kept the picture of the first one's serial number, and used it to compare against all of the Chromecasts that Best Buy had in stock. I only found one that began with "390...", since my originally purchased one began with "3901...". I live about an hour away from the closest Best Buy, so I decided to ask someone in Geek Squad if I could test it out to make sure it had the old firmware on it. He checked with someone else and was given the go ahead. We didn't plug it into the HDMI port, but he allowed me to plug it in to the USB port on a TV. Using the powered OTG micro USB cable I got in the mail today and a FlashCast drive I had created, I held the Chromecast button down and plugged the micro USB cable into the Chromecast. I waited to see if it the red light would go away after about 9 seconds, and VOILA, it did. I'll soon officially test it out on my TV so that I can see if the FlashCast logo comes up on the screen, and I will report back.
EDIT: Sorry for the delay in reporting back. Looks like the 3rd time was a charm, and the Chromecast I purchased last finally worked. So it looks like it's safe to at least assume that Chromecasts with serial numbers that begin with at least "390", with a range between "3901..." and "3907..." may have vulnerable bootloaders. Not to say this is the end all be all if figuring this out, but the guesswork might be if some use for now, until all the old stock gets sold completely.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Damn. I bought my chrome cast the other day and allowed it to update without knowing any of these forums existed
sent from a LG-MS870 using Katana v3 ROM by GT
I picked up 2 chromecast's over the weekend from Best Buy (Mall of America). The first one had a 3Axxxxxxxx SN and was at 12940. The second one was a 39xxxxxx and was at 12072.
Versions with 12072 are still out there. Look for CC's with SN starting with 39 or 37.
guy4jesuschrist said:
Not sure how much this will help, but I just went to Best Buy to return the 2nd Chromecast I had bought, since it came with a firmware newer than 12072. When I had purchased my first one, I hadn't done any research on rooting a Chromecast yet, and unfortunately allowed it to receive Google's OTA update. Before returning it, I took a picture of the serial number, pictured below. Tonight I decided to just get a refund at first, but then decided to take one third and final stab at getting one with a vulnerable bootloader. Thankfully, I kept the picture of the first one's serial number, and used it to compare against all of the Chromecasts that Best Buy had in stock. I only found one that began with "390...", since my originally purchased one began with "3901...". I live about an hour away from the closest Best Buy, so I decided to ask someone in Geek Squad if I could test it out to make sure it had the old firmware on it. He checked with someone else and was given the go ahead. We didn't plug it into the HDMI port, but he allowed me to plug it in to the USB port on a TV. Using the powered OTG micro USB cable I got in the mail today and a FlashCast drive I had created, I held the Chromecast button down and plugged the micro USB cable into the Chromecast. I waited to see if it the red light would go away after about 9 seconds, and VOILA, it did. I'll soon officially test it out on my TV so that I can see if the FlashCast logo comes up on the screen, and I will report back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the delay in reporting back. Looks like the 3rd time was a charm, and the Chromecast I purchased last finally worked. So it looks like it's safe to at least assume that Chromecasts with serial numbers that begin with at least "390", with a range between "3901..." and "3907..." may have vulnerable bootloaders. Not to say this is the end all be all if figuring this out, but the guesswork might be if some use for now, until all the old stock gets sold completely.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
I can verify that 3904 "should" have the original firmware. Spent an hour looking for one, and another 45 minutes making sure that the Wifi, and my phone had no internet connection to them, and then trying to get it to connect fully, so I could see the firmware version. As soon as I switched from using the Chromecast app on my OG RAZR, to using it on my Nexus 7(2), it connected right away .It was the only one they had in the Best Buy near me, that was even close as far as serial numbers go. Time to get my brick..uhh. I mean, unlock on
I can verify that 3As all have newer firmware, thus can't be rooted. I tried two from my local Best Buy
Greetings:
I'm trying to connect without updating since I just got my CC but to no avail since yesterday!!
I'm doing the "no internet router" option but don't even see the "home screen" when I connect
the CC to my TV set!! All I see is few colored "dots"!!
Am I doing something wrong? or do I have a faulty CC?
Any input is much appreciated.
P.S= My phone is a Nexus 4
My CC's SN starts with 3805xxxxxxxxxxx
samteeee said:
Greetings:
I'm trying to connect without updating since I just got my CC but to no avail since yesterday!!
I'm doing the "no internet router" option but don't even see the "home screen" when I connect
the CC to my TV set!! All I see is few colored "dots"!!
Am I doing something wrong? or do I have a faulty CC?
Any input is much appreciated.
P.S= My phone is a Nexus 4
My CC's SN starts with 3805xxxxxxxxxxx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Little dots means you are in recovery mode.
Trying installing FlashCast and Custom ROM.
If you know the version is OK before you even connect it to a router and set it up you can setup the root!
mastermind278 said:
Little dots means you are in recovery mode.
Trying installing FlashCast and Custom ROM.
If you know the version is OK before you even connect it to a router and set it up you can setup the root!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I certainly didn't do anything to be on "Recovery" partition"!!
I'm not sure what my build/firmware is but I guess I can always
just try to go for "root" and see if it'll happen, right? I mean there
is no harm in that!! I'll get my OTG by Monday so I can try it.
I just picked up a second :fingers-crossed: Chromecast from bestbuy this morning and it would seem that the bootloader is already patched.... I took it straight out of the box and attempted the bootloader exploit.
Is there a way of looking at the bootloader version....lmk and i'll double check, but the exploit seems to just access the thumb drive momentarily and then simply a black screen (i'm guessing its patched) :crying:
I bought mine from a nearby bestbuy and it was already running the patched version. I do not know if that is because they were out of stock previously or not, but if it is then it is possible these were built recently and thus would have the latest build.
Still to determine if your using the patched build or the one that can be rooted you just look within the chromecast application at the build number.
If it is any higher then build 12840 then your using the patched version. It's kinda tucked away a little, so the image below should help.
View attachment 2252866
The arrow points to the build version
Anything you can tell us about the boxes? Any way to tell these are a newer version?
I ordered one I haven't picked up from the new stock on BestBuy online, I'm hopeful it's not patched already.
scottusa2008 said:
I bought mine from a nearby bestbuy and it was already running the patched version. I do not know if that is because they were out of stock previously or not, but if it is then it is possible these were built recently and thus would have the latest build.
Still to determine if your using the patched build or the one that can be rooted you just look within the chromecast application at the build number.
If it is any higher then build 12840 then your using the patched version. It's kinda tucked away a little, so the image below should help.
View attachment 2252866
The arrow points to the build version
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually if its any higher than 12072 its patched. 12840 and up are patched
KenMacD said:
Anything you can tell us about the boxes? Any way to tell these are a newer version?
I ordered one I haven't picked up from the new stock on BestBuy online, I'm hopeful it's not patched already.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My chromecast packaging does not show anything that would seem to indicate what firmware version it's using.. So I would guess the answer is no, there is no way to tell for sure until you plug it in and use it.
BusterChestnut said:
I just picked up a second :fingers-crossed: Chromecast from bestbuy this morning and it would seem that the bootloader is already patched.... I took it straight out of the box and attempted the bootloader exploit.
Is there a way of looking at the bootloader version....lmk and i'll double check, but the exploit seems to just access the thumb drive momentarily and then simply a black screen (i'm guessing its patched) :crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Weird. It was bound to happened eventually. I an pretty thankful I was able to go to best buy yesterday and pick another chromecast that can be rooted. Now, I wait, for the cable.
Aaron Swartz, Rest in Pixels.
scottusa2008 said:
... there is no way to tell for sure until you plug it in and use it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Scott - I think that was your problem that is why you see the firmware is the latest. When you first bought the chromecast, disconnect your internet, then connect your device to it. If you don't as soon as you connect to the internet, chromecast calls home and update. What I did was disconnect my modem but left the router on, then I connect the chromecast to my router and upload Tvall file.
JBG
johnnybg00d said:
Scott - I think that was your problem that is why you see the firmware is the latest. When you first bought the chromecast, disconnect your internet, then connect your device to it. If you don't as soon as you connect to the internet, chromecast calls home and update. What I did was disconnect my modem but left the router on, then I connect the chromecast to my router and upload Tvall file.
JBG
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had my cable modem unplugged prior to plugging the device in.
The build version in the pic was what I got straight from BestBuy.
Could you please post all the serial numbers etc. on the outside of the packaging so we can attempt to tell the factory updates from the "originals"?
downwiththebanksters said:
Could you please post all the serial numbers etc. on the outside of the packaging so we can attempt to tell the factory updates from the "originals"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At this point I doubt it will matter. Each location got so few Chromcasts, that I doubt you can even find an unpatched one out there anymore.
I picked up mine Tuesday in lake Jackson Texas version 12072.
Sent from my GT-I9505G using Tapatalk 4
I've had a Chromecast sitting on my desk completely unopened for a while. Ordered it from Bestbuy online. I'll have to get it out and play with it this weekend.
Got 5 of them one week ago from Amazon. All of them are 12072.
MCP
Picked one up earlier today from Best Buy and was able to exploit it. I didn't check what version it was on since I couldn't get the PC version of the Chromecast App to connect to it and I had my internet disconnected to prevent it from updating. FlashCast was sucessfully installed and I updated to 13300 with the red PWNED bootanimation.
What I did to (hopefully) get one of the older Chromecasts was grabbing one from farthest back of the stock Best Buy had on display to increase my chances of some still being out there, and got lucky
jamcar said:
Weird. It was bound to happened eventually. I an pretty thankful I was able to go to best buy yesterday and pick another chromecast that can be rooted. Now, I wait, for the cable.
Aaron Swartz, Rest in Pixels.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What cable do we need to purchase?
DC_MTP said:
What cable do we need to purchase? Any recommendations on a jump drive I hear it has to be 128mb?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You want a cable like this one. If you already have an unpowered OTG cable, there are also ways you can use a USB hub to set it up (see this thread for details). The USB drive you use for FlashCast doesn't have to be exactly 128MB; that's just the minimum size it can be. So any USB drive you can buy now will work fine.
tchebb said:
You want a cable like this one. If you already have an unpowered OTG cable, there are also ways you can use a USB hub to set it up (see this thread for details). The USB drive you use for FlashCast doesn't have to be exactly 128MB; that's just the minimum size it can be. So any USB drive you can buy now will work fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks bro! Just place an order for the cable u linked. I returned my original chromcast back to Google today (came patched) and ordered one from Amazon....hoping to get as lucky as a few have gotten with recent Amazon orders (chromecast).
BusterChestnut said:
I just picked up a second :fingers-crossed: Chromecast from bestbuy this morning and it would seem that the bootloader is already patched.... I took it straight out of the box and attempted the bootloader exploit.
Is there a way of looking at the bootloader version....lmk and i'll double check, but the exploit seems to just access the thumb drive momentarily and then simply a black screen (i'm guessing its patched) :crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got back from the US with a Chromecast I bought in BestBuy when I was over there... I had thought the same thing, but my two turend out not the be unhackable.. just crappily built.
I tried about 20 times until I actually got it to boot from USB properly, usually it just goes to that black screen with some tiny (almost unnoticeable) coloured pixels in a line. They both sometimes even boot to that weird screen when starting normally, just seems to be a thing they do sometimes. (could be underpowered PSU i suppose as I cant use the original as it has US power pins and I'm in the UK)
Once it did boot properly to recovery it worked fine and flashed as expected, worth checking before writing it off. (to check, set it up normally and then quickly have a look at the version in the app before powering it off.. unless you have mega fast internet it wont manage to download 77mb in the 5 seconds it takes to check)
Original firmware still in the wild.
I picked up a Chromecast today, November 4th, that had the original firmware . The serial number started with 3906. Others at the store started with 3A. An employee said he tried one recently and wasn't able to flash it. I originally bought one in early Sep which updated OTA has a serial number beginning 3731. I'm assuming if you can find one still sealed with a serial number similar to mine then you may be in luck.
How see running firwmare
How can i see firmware running without chromecast will be automatic updated from the internet?
Where is the firmware stored (ie chip)
Inside the Chromecast? My thinking maybe off but is it possible to have the unit boot and load the firmware we want if the firmware is manually written to memory? I have not found much information on the JTAG port, but I see it also has 16gig TSOP as well with a 4 or 8 gig DDR memory. I assume the DDR is used for a buffer for the CPU and the memory in the CPU is for storing the bootloader . so hoping the TSOP is where the firmware is stored. If we were able to write the firmware there would we be able to achieve our needed root, or would the current firmware on the chip be useful for finding an exploit to root?
Would think unless we are changing the bootloader when we root the unit now at low serial numbers I would think it would be the same as is writing a ROM to a phone and using a factory bootloader.
Correct me if I am all messed up here please.
1080xt root 12.15.15
rekids said:
Where is the firmware stored (ie chip)
Inside the Chromecast? My thinking maybe off but is it possible to have the unit boot and load the firmware we want if the firmware is manually written to memory? I have not found much information on the JTAG port, but I see it also has 16gig TSOP as well with a 4 or 8 gig DDR memory. I assume the DDR is used for a buffer for the CPU and the memory in the CPU is for storing the bootloader . so hoping the TSOP is where the firmware is stored. If we were able to write the firmware there would we be able to achieve our needed root, or would the current firmware on the chip be useful for finding an exploit to root?
Would think unless we are changing the bootloader when we root the unit now at low serial numbers I would think it would be the same as is writing a ROM to a phone and using a factory bootloader.
Correct me if I am all messed up here please.
1080xt root 12.15.15
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That pretty much what FlashCast did until Google plugged the hole that would let you hijack the boot process....
I don't know how diligently some have been looking but since Google plugged that hole there seems to be no way into the CCast anyone can find.
rekids said:
Where is the firmware stored (ie chip)
Inside the Chromecast? My thinking maybe off but is it possible to have the unit boot and load the firmware we want if the firmware is manually written to memory? I have not found much information on the JTAG port, but I see it also has 16gig TSOP as well with a 4 or 8 gig DDR memory.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was written elsewhere that the gtvhacker team found the JTAG pins are disabled at the hardware level.
There was also mention that there may be a device-specific encryption, but no confirmation on that. Someone with an eeprom programmer and soldering station who can swap chips would have to confirm.
That I have (chip programmer and soldering station) just have not decided if it was stored on the 48 pin TSOP as that is the easiest to gain access to. This one of couple of things I would need to know or at least have a good idea about before tearing my noon rooted unit apart for.
IF ... The firmware is stored there and I had an image of the Eureka firmware that needs to be on the TSOP then tearing it apart is worth the test. I don't see the software being encrypted to the device since JTAG has been disabled seams like a lot of work and keys needed for a simple device and low cost but I could be wrong. The other thing I would need to do is go through the data sheet on the TSOP to see if it has a write once area or a locked portion that would require a key from CPU to allow writing, but kinda doubt that.
So if some one has info on the actual image preferably a .bin image of eureka in the correct data location would be great.
My thought is if it is that simple then ISP maybe possible for the average tinker with a simple chip programmer or even make it possible for some one to program on a larger scale for a small fee of like $5 or $10 instead of $100 on EBay or finding the last few with old software out there.
1080xt root 12.15.15
I like this thread hopefully it will be cracked open...just like the ps3 was miraculously despite many theories that it was impossible to hack even after sony plugged the holes again and again
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Just a small update. Removed the TSOP and went to read it using factory default settings and found the first 141 bocks are invalid and the rest of the chip was blank "FF". Changed the settings to not skip over the 141 blocks and got a 2 gig data file. Not sure if this a good thing yet need to sort through to see if any of the data is intact valid. My Chromecast is using current firmware. The TSOP does hold 16gigs of data. Only data seen so far is up to data block 3F3C000 then blank from that point on.
Could really use another TSOP from another Chromecast even a dead one for comparison.
1080xt root 12.15.15
Not sure, but maybe @Team-Eureka has a dead CCast they can donate/lend to your effort...
Need some help from some one who knows a few things about the Chromecast.
What I able to do right now is read and write what ever is stored on the 16 gig TSOP that is in the Chromecast. As far as I can see this is where the firmware should be stored.
The idea is to write the firmware that is desired to the TSOP and have the Chromecast boot that software instead.
Problem ... The data that is recovered from my Chromecast that is up to date has about 200-500 MB of data towards the beginning of the blocks and a few more MB just before the end of the blocks. The total .bin file is about 2.2 gigs. When viewing the contents of the .bin there is no readable text (example "Google , version, build" and so forth) and there is usually at least something in text format when viewed in WinHex of other devices that I have read and written to in the past.
What I don't know is where exactly is the TSOP the firmware begins or ends, location of checksum (s) and an image of Eureka firmware as it is written on the TSOP.
Possible solution is a TSOP that has had the firmware already loaded or an image of that TSOP or possibly even the rootable firmware image.
Any help is great. I have been on the IRC channel of Eureka and Gtvhacker and asked there but had no response.
The programmer I have is an older Dataman 48pro (newer version is more efficient and does multiple chips at once) it is very reliable and takes about 20 minutes for a complete read of the 16 gig TSOP. The chip does need to be removed and placed in the adapter to read since ICP is not spotted by the TSOP and from my research the JTAG or UART has been disabled I suspect with in the processor.
Any one with info or even idea would be great.
Thanks
Rekids
Team Eureka hangs out in #team-eureka though they've been busy lately... Wish I knew more but hardware is my weakness.
bhiga said:
Team Eureka hangs out in #team-eureka though they've been busy lately... Wish I knew more but hardware is my weakness.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
we are here, we are just quiet NAND dump was sent his way.
Thank you and yes understand being busy, I work 40+ them got stuff I do at home with 4 kids and the wife not to mention I do a few things out of town each week.
I did get a full NAND image just got to compare with the read I got and see if there online with each other as to location and type of code in case it is different after it passes through the CPU.
Will keep you posted, as to findings.
1080xt root 12.15.15
Just in case of anyone is following this,
I did get the bootloader downgraded to a TOtable version written on the NAND. Down side is was not able to get the NAND remounted well enough for a boot without some liquid flux I had lost around the house some where so ordered some more. It is definably possible to change all the data in the NAND with a programmer but the NAND has to be removed from the PCB and then remounted. But have to wait for supplies to show up and then a day I can play around with this project again.
The Chromecast I am working with is one with the serial number of 3B and it has updated to the the most recent firmware.
Any how will post when I have it boots again
1080xt root 12.15.15
rekids said:
Just in case of anyone is following this,
I did get the bootloader downgraded to a TOtable version written on the NAND. Down side is was not able to get the NAND remounted well enough for a boot without some liquid flux I had lost around the house some where so ordered some more. It is definably possible to change all the data in the NAND with a programmer but the NAND has to be removed from the PCB and then remounted. But have to wait for supplies to show up and then a day I can play around with this project again.
The Chromecast I am working with is one with the serial number of 3B and it has updated to the the most recent firmware.
Any how will post when I have it boots again
1080xt root 12.15.15
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, great work [emoji3][emoji106]
Although, this is a method what only few users might use, I'm glad to see someone doing this kind of stuff.
Eagerly waiting to hear if you manage to pull it together and eventually root your device [emoji2]
Sent from my Nexus 4
Can't wait to hear your upcoming updates either. Good work
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
rekids said:
Just in case of anyone is following this,
I did get the bootloader downgraded to a TOtable version written on the NAND. Down side is was not able to get the NAND remounted well enough for a boot without some liquid flux I had lost around the house some where so ordered some more. It is definably possible to change all the data in the NAND with a programmer but the NAND has to be removed from the PCB and then remounted. But have to wait for supplies to show up and then a day I can play around with this project again.
The Chromecast I am working with is one with the serial number of 3B and it has updated to the the most recent firmware.
Any how will post when I have it boots again
1080xt root 12.15.15
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lots of us are following.
this is great news.
but yes only for advanced users. but once it is perfected a clip could probally be made like the ps3/360 nand clips
Just to be sure every one is aware all thanks goes to those who really deserve it Gtvhackers for the original and only exploit that we have, and every one at Team Eureka, and above all else a very helpful and encouraging person who has helped with the vital info that was needed and willing to spend time helping me out and not knowing a thing about me (just a noob)
Thanks ddggttff3, for the help so much.
1080xt
Could this be used to flash the tsop without desoldering?
http://www.ic2005.com/shop/product.php?productid=137&cat=0&featured=Y
I've been out of the modding scene for years and haven't kept up.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Looks like more a way to connect while mounted then a way to program. The NAND requires a particular set instructions to do anything really. The way I understand what needs to happen to program and write are a couple of things,
1 connection to the right pins (obtain with the item you mentioned our to place in a adapter with individual connections for each pin)
2 uninterrupted communication (may have issue with resistors, caps, CPU and any other items on board connected to NAND)
3 instruction set for communication to the NAND to have it do what you want.
I have not come across anything as of yet suggesting in In circuit programming is possible out side of the use of the UART or JTAG. And since as far as I can find the correct set of UART pins are not connected and the JTAG is either disabled or not connected makes in circuit programming not possible as of right now.
A data sheet on the 88DE3005 has not been found by me as of now. Marvell seams to keep that info unavailable to us.
A map out of the armada mini would be great and a pin out of the board connections would help to see if that would be possible in the future.
1080xt 4.4
So got my stuff to remount the NAND with the changed bootloader to the exploitable one and .. no boot. Not sure what exactly went wrong got a sneaky feeling it may have died during the attempt to remount before I got my stuff with a big fat solding iron. Gonna go get another and try again.
It is definitely easier to remount when you use liquid flux and not just trying to hit each leg with solding iron.
Any news? Have we found a hardware method of rooting?
Hi all.
I just leased a 2016 Silverado and was a little bummed to find out that Android Auto doesn't work out of the box, and my dealership seems to not know what the heck I'm talking about.
For anyone that has Android Auto working in the 2016 Silverado, can you post your Chevrolet MyLink version number (can be obtained from settings in the dash)
Just wanna verify if my version should have it or not.
My phone (Nexus 5x) goes into Charging mode from every USB port (not sure if all ports should work with auto or not, but I tried all three).
I have the projection icon in my dashboard, which is mentioned on the Chevy Android Auto press release (http://media.chevrolet.com/media/us...ws/us/en/2016/mar/0301-chevrolet-android.html), but it's also used for Apple Car play or whatever.
I know this article mentions needing an update but I literally leased it this Monday (3/14) and assumed they would update the dashboard before giving it to me, note that the press release was sent out on 3/1.
Anyway, if someone can provide that info to let me know if I'm going to be disappointed by taking it in for a dashboard update, that'd be appreciated.
Thanks.
stipo42 said:
Hi all.
I just leased a 2016 Silverado and was a little bummed to find out that Android Auto doesn't work out of the box, and my dealership seems to not know what the heck I'm talking about.
For anyone that has Android Auto working in the 2016 Silverado, can you post your Chevrolet MyLink version number (can be obtained from settings in the dash)
Just wanna verify if my version should have it or not.
My phone (Nexus 5x) goes into Charging mode from every USB port (not sure if all ports should work with auto or not, but I tried all three).
I have the projection icon in my dashboard, which is mentioned on the Chevy Android Auto press release (http://media.chevrolet.com/media/us...ws/us/en/2016/mar/0301-chevrolet-android.html), but it's also used for Apple Car play or whatever.
I know this article mentions needing an update but I literally leased it this Monday (3/14) and assumed they would update the dashboard before giving it to me, note that the press release was sent out on 3/1.
Anyway, if someone can provide that info to let me know if I'm going to be disappointed by taking it in for a dashboard update, that'd be appreciated.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I recently did the update on another Chevrolet vehicle and had to go through the trouble of explaning what android auto is in the process as well.
Try asking them to look up #16-NA-042. That is the service bulletin number that they have the access to.
So for anyone else in my boat, I did indeed need an update. Android auto is pretty awesome so far. Google music and maps on the dash is super fun
I just did the update on my 16 chevy Malibu with mylink
How long did it take for the update? The letter I got said 30 minutes, but I just made an appointment, and they said it takes 2 hours...
1hr
I had the update done last week and it does not work on my s6 edge. I have been rummaging through forums because I thought it was my phone at first. I have tried eberything. My phone is up to date with marshmallow and everything but still have not found a answer to why it will not connect. I too have a 2016 Silverado. So at this point I think that the dealer botched the update. Like Stipo stated above if anyone with an updated working AA mylink could post the version number so I can check to see if they did indeed screw up update I would greatly appreciate it!
So it took me a while to get it to work on my Tahoe... There were two things I changed, so if you haven't tried these, try them:
1. If "fast charge" is enabled in the battery settings, you will need to pull down the notification shade and switch to a data and charge mode from charge only. (this is S7 specific, but a similar step should be required on all MM phones.)
2. I tried several cables before I had a stable connection that didn't immediately disconnect. I actually bought a new Anker cable.
Also, make sure you have it paired over Bluetooth. Mine does not connect until the Bluetooth connection is complete.
Where do I find the mylink version number? I'll look later today and report back later...
Settings---->Software Information---> Software number should be shown. Thanks for your help
Software: 84089010
Gracenote: 23199236
Map: 23346621
Thanks for checking for me. Anyone else that has had the update please share so we can compare depending on model. My software number is different from yours (23415883) but my grace note is the same (what ever that means). I own a 2016 silverado...idk of software numbers differ between models. I called chevy yesterday and sounds like the dealer screwed up the update blahhh going again next week. Fingers crossed.
Android auto communication error 7
I got my 2016 silverado updated. (Took the dealer two times to get it right) so now in settings right below apple play I see android auto. But when I connect my galaxy note 4 I get a communication error 7 that says my cars software did not pass android autos security settings check list. Has anyone else seen this?
Svzanghi said:
I had the update done last week and it does not work on my s6 edge. I have been rummaging through forums because I thought it was my phone at first. I have tried eberything. My phone is up to date with marshmallow and everything but still have not found a answer to why it will not connect. I too have a 2016 Silverado. So at this point I think that the dealer botched the update. Like Stipo stated above if anyone with an updated working AA mylink could post the version number so I can check to see if they did indeed screw up update I would greatly appreciate it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There seem to be a lot of problems with Samsung Marshmallow Devices lately. If you check the Androidcentral forum's you'll see Samsung seriously ****ed things up with their marshmallow update. I guess you'll have to wait until they fix it or use a custom rom.
I have a 2016 Silverado 3500HD and does not have the Icon. I was told that a certain quantity of 2016MY Silverado 1500/2500/3500 and Sierra 1500/2500/3500 trucks were
built without Apple Car Play and Android Auto compatibility. I also was told at this point there is no plans for an upgrade but that doesn't mean there won't be. I was told also it is on the window sticker that it didn't have it and there was a $200 credit given because of it on the sticker price. So if you are one with no Icon then you just have to put up with the frustration of not having it like me.
its 2019 and yes i have something to say about this
just bought a CPO 2016 silverado LTZ.. everything you're describing im having trouble with also. i cant find anyone or any thread to help me. i even took it to the service station today since i bought it Saturday. they cant help me with the issue. blame it on my phone. i can get my phone to pair with the truck and make calls and play pandora. but when it comes to using android auto. its like my phone doesnt exist. im using the factory USB cord. i tired both of my phones my S6 and my S9 still nothing. theres no icon for android but there is for apple carplay. the tech at chevy was able to use his apple phone but that doesnt help me. if you have an answer to this PLEASE PLEASE let me know. thank you. btw its running the latest update
Svzanghi said:
Thanks for checking for me. Anyone else that has had the update please share so we can compare depending on model. My software number is different from yours (23415883) but my grace note is the same (what ever that means). I own a 2016 silverado...idk of software numbers differ between models. I called chevy yesterday and sounds like the dealer screwed up the update blahhh going again next week. Fingers crossed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my my maps, software and the other is different from yours. idk what to do. chevy said everything is up to date. when its clearly not. my numbers are way under everyone elses. including the update
If AA is not shown in the mylink settings then it needs updated to have AA. My 16 Camaro was without and I was able to get the dealership to update it.
Not sure how the Silverados are treated but with the Camaros they offered the upgrade free for a limited time then after that time started charging for the upgrade. Think gm included a charge code for the labor then stopped giving the dealerships the codes so the labor cost was on the dealership. I was able to find a dealership that did it free of charge. Hope this helps anyone.
Svzanghi said:
I had the update done last week and it does not work on my s6 edge. I have been rummaging through forums because I thought it was my phone at first. I have tried eberything. My phone is up to date with marshmallow and everything but still have not found a answer to why it will not connect. I too have a 2016 Silverado. So at this point I think that the dealer botched the update. Like Stipo stated above if anyone with an updated working AA mylink could post the version number so I can check to see if they did indeed screw up update I would greatly appreciate it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I brought mine in for the update, I got in the truck to test it and it didn't work. The software update had to be done again. It takes 45 minutes to upload into the truck. Make sure you are using a phone manufacturer cable. I used on of my "good" charging cables and it does not work, I have an LG thinQ8. it only works with my LG cable. the update can fail, don't let the dealer tell you otherwise.