Database Develop

GPS Dead Reckoning using G Sensor - Any takers?

We've all seen it. We're stuck in traffic and the GPS signal starts going crazy! Or we're in a tunnel, or in an urban canyon.
It is possible to navigate using purely a g-sensor. The army does this.
The G Sensor information can be combined with the GPS signal, to clean the GPS signal, and make it more accurate.
Here's a thread about dead reckoning. Now we just need a brave soul to attempt it!

I can help with this. I'm a Java programmer and can help getting the maths required to do it.

I've noticed something strange with the Tomtom7 software.
I have never used TT7 before or any other TT product, have always used Route66 on my Nokia 6110.
When I was driving in an underground tunnel, there was no signal, but the car icon on TT kept on going? I think it's just taking last average speed and continuing on until it gets a signal lock again.
I thought it was cool.

MrDerrickC said:
When I was driving in an underground tunnel, there was no signal, but the car icon on TT kept on going? I think it's just taking last average speed and continuing on until it gets a signal lock again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that's right. This behavior helps in tunnels, but it's quite annoying, when stopping the car underneath a huge bridge because of a red traffic light.
The GPS signal is lost and the navigation just drives along the route assuming you are still going about the same speed and gives nice advices while you're waiting on the traffic light. Then, when you start driving again the GPS reception comes back and the navigation realizes: "Uhh, I have some mismatch - need to recalc!". This route recalculation can lead to missing navigation advices - so everything has it's pros and cons.

this is where dead reckoning would be perfect. the g sensor would say "I'm not moving" and clean the gps signal to tomtom
the way it would be done by software is that an app would read the gps signal, and the g sensor signal, then provide a new serial port for tomtom to use. to that serial port, a cleaned gps signal would be given.

sama said:
this is where dead reckoning would be perfect. the g sensor would say "I'm not moving" and clean the gps signal to tomtom
the way it would be done by software is that an app would read the gps signal, and the g sensor signal, then provide a new serial port for tomtom to use. to that serial port, a cleaned gps signal would be given.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course, the sensor wouldn't say "I'm moving/not moving", but "my situation is steady/changes so and so" (just nit-picking!)
Anyway, yes, this would be a great idea, but I really doubt we'll be able to see something useful if the gps software companies do not choose to build it in...

We don't need to wait for GPS vendors to do this, it can be done with some s/w.
I would do this myself, but I'm a Java programmer and I'll have to learn .net thinking and syntax to do it, and I honestly have no time! The only tricky bit I see is configuring a kalman filter, but not for someone that's familiar with the maths.
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If you look at the picture above (taken from here, which is a detailed discussion of dead reckoning), you can see that the GPS signal stops after Kalman Filter #1, the dead reckoning block shown in blue would be the software filter.
I'm happy to help with the design, and will try my best to get the maths done as psudeo code.
so... one more time ... any takers?

ok maybe im missing something but this idea has issues with 2 things IMO
1) the G sensor will not be able to differentiate between travelling at a constant speed and not moving at all, because in both situations the G-force is zero [it can only detect acceleration/deceleration (hence accelerometer nomenclature) or phones orientation]
2) the phone may get all mixed up depending on how you mount the phone in the car (landscape, portrate, flat on dash), and if you move the phone in the car with your hand (eg you receive a call or just need to move it around in the car). lol
the way i can see to avoid problem 1 is if the G-sensor assumes that if you decelerate in a tunnel you are about to stop, if you accelerate you are moving, but the accuracy of this is affected by the hardware and problem 2, Overall i find it hard to see this working too well. *wonders how the army use it*
Defo worth a try tho is someone feels like putting the effort in

agreed regarding point 2. If you pick up the phone, you're not going to be able to use it, but then, if you're on the phone you won't be able to use the navigation either. Once the phone is stationary again, the filter would work.
Also, it's possible to detect erratic movement and use primarily the gps signal when that happens.
regarding point 1, this is where the combining magic happens. The GPS signal in a constant vector is an indication that all is good with the gps. when it starts to get erratic, we consult to the g-sensor's vector. In essence, both gps and innertia signals would be producing a stream of navigation data, and the filter would make the best of the data.
ps. left/right g is also measurable.

think of the g sensor data like a joystick top down view, recorded over time as a stream. that stream is the g-sensor's interpretation of the current path.
the gps signal, is also recorded as a stream.
overlay them, and if they agree, we're good. If one misbehaves, consult the other.

You guys forgot another problem. When you're moving into a tunnel or something the device will detect the declining of the angle of the car you're driving. So it will detect that you're actually accelrating even if you don't.

a raise/dip will have initial acceleration/deacceleration, but will become constant shortly after and would therefore be interpreted as vertical motion. vertical motion can be ignored here since we're only interested left/right and forward/back.
I've a friend that knows .net and we're going to work on this together. hopefully something will come out of it.
please keep any ideas/scepticism coming, they're all food for thought.

sama said:
think of the g sensor data like a joystick top down view, recorded over time as a stream. that stream is the g-sensor's interpretation of the current path.
the gps signal, is also recorded as a stream.
overlay them, and if they agree, we're good. If one misbehaves, consult the other.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok i appreciate all the above points BUT surely the only reason one would want to implement the G-Sensor in the first place is so that it can provide data to the software during times when a GPS single is not available eg near high rise buildings and in tunnels...
when the software is depending on purely the data of the G-Sensor thats when it may have issues (like if u move the device) BUT i agree that it has to be better than no input at all... i am not trying to be negative here i am actually quite intrigued to see if someone would be able to get this working as the data provided by the sensor is probably just about accurate enough to work for short stints like in a tunnel etc
-=Dennis=- said:
You guys forgot another problem. When you're moving into a tunnel or something the device will detect the declining of the angle of the car you're driving. So it will detect that you're actually accelrating even if you don't.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this is indeed another issue
sama said:
a raise/dip will have initial acceleration/deacceleration, but will become constant shortly after and would therefore be interpreted as vertical motion. vertical motion can be ignored here since we're only interested left/right and forward/back.
I've a friend that knows .net and we're going to work on this together. hopefully something will come out of it.
please keep any ideas/scepticism coming, they're all food for thought.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well if you accelerate for a while that would be the same reading as going on an incline... the period of time for acceleration could be extended and hence be misunderstood as a gradient... hmmm but again this would only be an issue if it occurred when there was no GPS signal

no negativity at all, it's all positive food for thought.
I guess when you're accelerating... you're going forward! some 0-60 measuring units use g-sensors (hey that's another application )
Perhaps there are a few scenario's that would need to be profiled and modelled. so possible scenarios could be:
1- stationary, accelerate hard
2- stationary, accelerate softly
3- moving, accelerate hard (sharp speed increase)
4- moving, accelerate softly (slow speed increase)
5- moving, decelerate hard (sharp speed decrease)
6- moving, decelerate softly (slow speed decrease)
I guess Dennis is correct that hills/dips would skew the results a little by showing an acceleration for a brief time, but not a huge amount.
That's all for Z axis.
Then there's the X axis:
1- a small-small change in x means a long bend
2- a small-large-small (bell) means a sharp bend
This output can be used in conjunction with the map data, to guess where it is/has gone. When the strength of the GPS signal falls below a certain amount, then it would use this 'guessed' data.
hmm.. this approach may be too simplistic... I guess some experimentation is needed. some data will need to be collected from the g sensor, and from the gps, and then to take a controlled route, and then look at all the data in a time line. Should be interesting!

JanDaMan said:
ok maybe im missing something but this idea has issues with 2 things IMO
1) the G sensor will not be able to differentiate between travelling at a constant speed and not moving at all, because in both situations the G-force
(...)
but the accuracy of this is affected by the hardware and problem 2, Overall i find it hard to see this working too well. *wonders how the army use it*
Defo worth a try tho is someone feels like putting the effort in
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i think that the army use a gyroscope instead of a g-force meter/sensor such as in a diamond. i don't know the exactly working of the army used gyroscope combined the gps but i can't find it out if you want to know
Greetz
sven
(gyroscope)

Re
Guys,
I work on a military boat so I cant give to much information, but thrust me. Dead reckoning on a Gsensor only is completely impossible!!!
First of all as said before you need a gyro (able to meassure roll, pitch and yaw), wich is far more accurat than a gsensor because it lacks the yaw option wich is absolutely critical. Then to make a system like this functioning you will need a lot extras, most important a compass (most prefferable a gyrocompas)
Also you need a lot of extra equipment, wind meters, acceleration meters, tilt meters, sideway movement meters etc. etc. etc.
Offcourse you can make a program wich use it a little bit, but I bet you will not be able to navigate more than 2 seconds with it and keep reliable information....
more info... inertial navigation system
anyway, I follow this just for fun

hehe i started good with my story
only the gyro part then ^^

My BMW iDrive GPS actually does this.
When in an underground park the "car" moves in the map, and it gets the position solid right when I exit the park.

These systems are not science-fiction - they're installed in every fighter jet, some commercial jets, and in fact the technology roots back to WWII.
See (also given a couple of posts up by swiftgs):
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inertial_navigation_system
Basically, if you have accurate angular and linear accelerometers, you can know exactly your position at any time, provided you knew your starting point.
The commercial/military systems have an accuracy of about 1NM/hour - i.e. after 1 hour of navigating it's about 1NM off. Of course with the aid of other navigational systems that can be recalibrated periodically.
swiftgs - you don't need any of the "extras" you mentioned - if your initial position, heading and velocity are known, you only need three gyros and three accelerometers. No compass, etc - those are there to supplement the system, minimize errors, etc.
I see two basic physical problems with implementing it in the Diamond:
1. Only 3 linear accelerometers present, angular movement information is missing (that's the "gyro" part)
2. Probably the accuracy is so low, that even internal thermal noise would give crazy readings quite fast.

joaormf said:
My BMW iDrive GPS actually does this.
When in an underground park the "car" moves in the map, and it gets the position solid right when I exit the park.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The BMW nav reads all sorts of telemetry data - wheel speed, steering turn, etc. not available to the diamond

[Q] Phantom Taps, Bad Screens?

Does anyone have a solution for phantom taps on your NC?
I'm on my 3rd Nook Color when I pick up the replacement unit this afternoon.
My general issues are phantom taps - or the NC doing things I don't want it to. So far a very poor experience when typing, turning a page in a book, or even just navigating the ui. The whole issue may be me, it happens regardless if I am plugged in or not. I keep a very clean screen so there is very to little gunk.
I do have sweaty palms on occasion but not out of the ordinary. I have other touch devices that have never given me this issue. If anything I think the screen is overly sensitive - hardware or software issue?

Nope it's not just you. Mine has a multitude of issues with the touchscreen...
Essentially I cannot use the touchscreen when the device is plugged into stock charger/cable as wherever I put my finger, a random touch appears somewhere on the x-axis near my finger.
It seems that the device does not like changes in temperature or humidity either when it is unplugged. Using my tablet while cold was impossible, and likewise while it had been warm.
I'm on my second tablet from Best Buy-- the first one had dead pixels galore (enough to make the best buy rep say "dang!"), and now this one has a bad touchscreen and hard to press power button.
However: I purchased one of these for my mother a few days before mine at Barnes and Noble, and it has no issues whatsoever... at least not yet.
I've come to the conclusion that this hardware is quite beta, but I'm willing to give them a chance since it is the best bang for the buck, even if I have to go through a couple of returns... it's honestly almost worth the time for me since a tablet is so valuable for schoolwork.

Fortunately mine does not do this. I think maybe for those that are having this issue it may be able to be fixed in a firmware update.
My EVO had extremely similar problems when it first came out with the touchscreen and not being able to use the dropdown menu while the device wasn't grounded. After a firmware update the phone was great with touch sensitivity.

my first one did this also. so far the second is doing fine, but the first didn't have any problems till the 13th day of owning it.
i'm hoping it's just an issue that can be fixed via software - maybe someone put an incorrect voltage input somewhere.

I was having the same issues. I bought a screen protector and that seemed to solve it. So far, it's been working fine.

I noticed the screen protector stabilized the touchscreen a lot. Before I seem to have a problem finding the sweet spot for a touch. Now it seems better.
However, my phantom pinky is always touching something while I am trying to navigate. As long I only get one finger near the screen, it's fine.
Mine came from B&N.
The only other issue I have is the magnetic clasp in the cover seems to throw the internal compass/magnetometer off a lot.

Awats said:
The only other issue I have is the magnetic clasp in the cover seems to throw the internal compass/magnetometer off a lot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Considering the Nook has neither I think you are okay.

khaytsus said:
Considering the Nook has neither I think you are okay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then how is it managing to correctly position the screen with Google Sky? Is it just spooky smart?

Mine only has problem when screen gets dirty. Try a screen protector or use gloves.

is there really a compass in this thing? I just assumed there wasn't. if there is I'm buying another tomorrow!

Screen protector helps to solve my problem.

Are you seeing more issues right after cleaning the screen? I see issues then and I think it is because I an using some moisture on the cloth. If I just dust it lightly with a dry cloth and live with a few finger prints there seem to be less of an issue.

Awats said:
Then how is it managing to correctly position the screen with Google Sky? Is it just spooky smart?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wifi location services provided by Google from data collection by Street Cars or by Location Services on Android phones.
iolinux333 said:
is there really a compass in this thing? I just assumed there wasn't. if there is I'm buying another tomorrow!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
....no

khaytsus said:
Wifi location services provided by Google from data collection by Street Cars or by Location Services on Android phones.
....no
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh well, it could be worse although I don't see how Google data can tell which direction I am facing.
Thanks dad!

Awats said:
Oh well, it could be worse although I don't see how Google data can tell which direction I am facing.
Thanks dad!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nor can your Nook Colour.. Using something like TetherGPS would have some heading information, but the NC itself without help would not.
It might show 0, dunno there. Maps for me just shows a dot, if yours is showing different, that'd be... interesting.
For S&G I tried "Compass", it of course FC's immediately like almost all apps that try to use the GPS. Enabled TetherGPS (with no server, just the client) and it ran, but of course no data, no heading, etc.

Is this occuring when the nook is plugged in? sometimes the charger can cause phatom touches with the touchscreen. Cleaning the screen and being on a stable ROM usually gets rid of that problem.

If only I weren't so stupid ...
khaytsus said:
Nor can your Nook Colour.. Using something like TetherGPS would have some heading information, but the NC itself without help would not.
It might show 0, dunno there. Maps for me just shows a dot, if yours is showing different, that'd be... interesting.
For S&G I tried "Compass", it of course FC's immediately like almost all apps that try to use the GPS. Enabled TetherGPS (with no server, just the client) and it ran, but of course no data, no heading, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL! Ok, I sat down with it and played for a bit. It appears some tilt sensor is handling the up and down tilt. If you raise the screen over your head, it shows those stars and if you tilt it down, I see what is below the horizon. That is pretty consistent. But it's also "simulating" a compass inadvertently.
By that I mean that if I happen to turn it on facing north, it appears to track as you turn in a circle but it's really just me tilting it and it's rotating he view. If you do it enough it has no clue the direction it's facing.
I'm just glad I figured this out before I got lost in the Amazon.

Just got mine plugged it in and unplugged and within stew minutes phantom touches couldn't even reboot it im on cyanogen mod 7
Sent from my SCH-I500 using XDA Premium App

Nook Screen Recalibrate
You guys can try my app from the market

assid2 said:
You guys can try my app from the market
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, it seems to have improved the accuracy! I need to play with it more to be sure.

UPDATED 12-23-10 Tests/Review : Sony Ericsson Live View with U.S. Galaxy Tab & EU F/W

UPDATED 12-23-10 Tests/Review : Sony Ericsson Live View with U.S. Galaxy Tab & EU F/W
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12-9-10
Well after a long 3 days of waiting i FINALLY got it =)
I plan to test it with the different firmwares of the tab and post up my progress as well as the different plugins since there isn't much online about it.
Well as of other reviews yes it seems like disconnect issues, but only when i turn it on from being off (not standby) it just connects then disconnects but it eventually connects. I've had similiar issues with my headset and my car kit for media both being connected and both would get disconnected so it leads me to more that it is software related than all being hardware.
So far It stays connected, this is only from just having it in the charger and testing.. im running tasker so it will alert me if its disconnected or connected everytime soo.. so far it looks good with the JM6 firmware on the TMOBILE TAB. I will test with the latest firmware after i run all the tests im gonna make a video review with the tab as well.
I really hope this works well because this will be the perfect accessory for keeping the TAB in our pockets while receiving calls and messages.
I'm gonna wait to have it fully charged before doing extensive testing, but i have recieved calls and missed calls and txt messages and it works great as well as a contact call plugin =)
I will also be looking for alternative wrist bands, even though the original one is ok its only slightly uncomfortable because it is somewhat elastic.
12-10-10
Currently uploading 3 videos of my initial review of the first day of use, as well as a video of the custom wrist band i had put on to replace the wrist strap it originally came with, the videos are gonna take a few hours to upload since there 1080p and about 2gb's a piece and this is the second time since the first time failed uploading at some point so hopefully it will get uploaded fully or else i will have to reconvert the vids to 720p and try again later but for now here are pics of the new wrist strap i put on.
This is a wrist strap i got at a local mall , the strap cost me $35 installed and its a 24mm band but trimmed at the mounting points to 20mm to fit on liveview's wrist strap mount, there is a issue though doing this will expose the back and allows the live view to popout of the mount, im looking into how to remedy this by putting some sort of thick fabric or something behind to help prevent it from popping out.
When my videos get uploaded you will see how it pops out.
also in the pictures there is a custom zagg protector put on just the other day , got it for free so its a crappy job by zagg lol. Can't complain for free.
1'st video of my review is up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukKes5EJlOc&hd=1
please subscribe and post your comments thx.
THE REST OF THE VIDEOS ARE STILL IN PROGRESS OF UPLOADING.
12-11-10
2nd part of my video of review is up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxjvkOwGDSs&hd=1
3rd part of my video of review is up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCt_HpdWxao&hd=1
please subscribe and post your comments thx.
12-13-10 - RECONNECTION FIX TEST'S
Sooooo good news after having some issues here and there really not as bad as others with other android phones, I may have found a solution to fixing the reconnection issues, I rarely get disconnected, so I'm unsure if this fixes that issue, but the problematic issue I had was reconnecting from the liveview being off or when my bt was off as well as being disconnected, but I found a way and still testing to make sure its a viable solution to fixing the reconnection issues.
Ironically I waited the whole day waiting for a disconnect after trying the fix the first time and it seemed to work so just need further testing
12-20-10 - RAIN TEST
So a test i wasn't intending doing, happened..
Its been raining a lot in california and i was rushing it outside to get into the car and as soon as i was inside i noticed my liveview had popped out of my watch mount.. i search everywhere in the car and decide to go look out side in the rain.. well
it was in a puddle =\ fully soaked in water..
i grab it run into the car, the screen still works fine doesn't seem like theres water inside maybe a lil but it wouldn't connect to my tab. So i turn on the heater and put it on the vents and leave it there for about 10mins or so, as i do this i keep checking and still not connecting tried doing my fix for reconnection and no luck as well as restarting the tab..
Well finnally after doing my fix one last time i was able to connect, ironically the liveview was pretty hot but the screen was fine no water or anything.. so i guess the liveview can handle some rain even a puddle .. few..
Video of my reconnection fix up this week.. sorry holiday delays.
12-23-10
So i figured out how to keep the watch from popping off i'm going to post a video of what to do but basically what i did was use a piece of clear scotch tape and ran it through the opposite side of the usb charge port on the band (harder since the band can't be easily removed with how tight its attached to my watch mount) and just left enough tape to put on the live views side and some on the bottom so now the tape acts like a hinge so when i need to charge it i just lift it up without removing it from the band and i can charge it and NEVER have to worry about it popping off anymore =)

Thanks man, look forward to the updates as I'm interested in one of these too. Currently on sale at play.com in the UK for £50

UPLOADING VIDEOS NOW daym 3 parts 2gb's a piece gonna take a while to process lol.
and i did find a wrist strap that works great on the LiveView, it uses 20mm standard strait end bands, i was able to get a shop to use 24mm rubber straps and trimmed the mounting points to fit 20mm so the strap looks wider and looks great with the liveview's wristband mount.
i will have pics up later on as well as u can see the wrist band on the videos when there uploaded.

Cheers look forward to it, also will want some decent alternative straps too. My watch battery just died and it'll cost as much to send off and have done professionally (otherwise will lose water resistance in a regular shop) than to buy the LiveView for now!

Hi hope you can solve a issue. I also want use my Lv connected and working with my Samsung Tab.
I hope you can help me
thanks in advance

I am also interested in the Sony Ericsson LiveView to use with my Galaxy Tab. But did not find many information about it and especially in combination with the Galaxy Tab.
I am very interested in your findings!

UPDATED FIRST POST
still uploading the videos but updated with pics of the wrist straps if anybody has questions or would like me to test something pls let me know, i still need to do more tests since its only been a day since i got it to see if this is ok for daily use.

mudstuff said:
Cheers look forward to it, also will want some decent alternative straps too. My watch battery just died and it'll cost as much to send off and have done professionally (otherwise will lose water resistance in a regular shop) than to buy the LiveView for now!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
daym, must be a expensive watch.. too bad the lv isn't water resistant =(
chihuahua said:
Hi hope you can solve a issue. I also want use my Lv connected and working with my Samsung Tab.
I hope you can help me
thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what issues are you having? i know there are common issues with disconnects but from my experience keeping ur memory about 50mb's seem to be working for me, i always use advance task killer and fast reboot pro with the live view and plugins exluded to keep everything in top shape, i will post up the apps im running as well as services in my daily testing.
bobvanoijen said:
I am also interested in the Sony Ericsson LiveView to use with my Galaxy Tab. But did not find many information about it and especially in combination with the Galaxy Tab.
I am very interested in your findings!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yup thats the reason i did this, i found one but they only showed a pic of the galaxy tab with it but not actual tests along side it.

UPDATED first post with my the link to the first part of my video review!

A Sony MBW-150 Watch will also work with the Tab, one has to use a software called Openwatch that can be found on the Market.

my issues
Hi nice video (and nice home page in your TAB!!!, is it a wallapear or application?)
I have some issues with my tab as you can read in many blgs on the net.
It seems works well but avery 15-20 minutes ( refreshing time I think) it will crash!!! you can't do nothing... a tab start to vibrate... it is very, very slow.... you can't use task killer (it too slow) and you MUST restart it!!! no alternatives ways!!!
reading an blog we are waiting some patch from SE... maybe.
Mow I use a LV just like a clock!!!
Any idea? ( i will waiting your video)
jay_jay_n said:
daym, must be a expensive watch.. too bad the lv isn't water resistant =(
what issues are you having? i know there are common issues with disconnects but from my experience keeping ur memory about 50mb's seem to be working for me, i always use advance task killer and fast reboot pro with the live view and plugins exluded to keep everything in top shape, i will post up the apps im running as well as services in my daily testing.
yup thats the reason i did this, i found one but they only showed a pic of the galaxy tab with it but not actual tests along side it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

p_hsieh said:
A Sony MBW-150 Watch will also work with the Tab, one has to use a software called Openwatch that can be found on the Market.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah i'm aware of that, just didn't like the 2 line display on them as well as pretty expensive for the nicer designs.
chihuahua said:
Hi nice video (and nice home page in your TAB!!!, is it a wallapear or application?)
I have some issues with my tab as you can read in many blgs on the net.
It seems works well but avery 15-20 minutes ( refreshing time I think) it will crash!!! you can't do nothing... a tab start to vibrate... it is very, very slow.... you can't use task killer (it too slow) and you MUST restart it!!! no alternatives ways!!!
reading an blog we are waiting some patch from SE... maybe.
Mow I use a LV just like a clock!!!
Any idea? ( i will waiting your video)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thx, the homescreen is just launcher pro with a simple background and i just have different widgets for easy access i tend to clutter my screens a lot so i can get to things with a single press.
I really recommend to check what apps you have running in the background and see if it runs better with certain apps uninstalled or forced closed, i know there is a issue with sony ericssons part but with my recent tests i do have disconnect issues even with freed memory but not as much as when i run out of memory so when i leave it sitting alone i don't get disconnect issues for a few hours , it seems ok to me for now until i run into a time when i need to know whos calling and its disconnected and i have to pull out the tab.. i'm hoping thats not gonna happen but time will tell and further testing.. i really feel that the sony liveview app is to blame for a lot of the issues.
seriously check on the app "quick reboot" try the free version and see what happens the pro one i paid for so i could exclude the live view and its plugins from restarting, but when live view is acting up i use the free version that will restart all the apps right away.. so two icons on my screen to easily remedy the connection issues. I will still have to run tests to see if i can recreate the problems and fixes.
12-11-10
2nd part of my video of review is up on the first post =)
3rd part of my video of review is up on the first post =)

jay_jay_n said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice review, Thanks!
Can i ask you where can i buy this wrist band in Europe?

Play.com have them on today @ £39.99 inc free del.
http://www.play.com/Mobiles/Mobile/4-/17279126/Sony-Ericsson-LiveView/Product.html

Sooooo good news after having some issues here and there really not as bad as others with other android phones, I may have found a solution to fixing the reconnection issues, I rarely get disconnected, so I'm unsure if this fixes that issue, but the problematic issue I had was reconnecting from the liveview being off or when my bt was off as well as being disconnected, but I found a way and still testing to make sure its a viable solution to fixing the reconnection issues.
Ironically I waited the whole day waiting for a disconnect after trying the fix the first time and it seemed to work so just need further testing
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App

my issues
Great videos!!!
I think is the best review as I saw for LV... clear, dettailed and real!!!
I tried to use your suggestion to understand why my issue happend, I installed KILLER APP and I monitoring ALL apps background running; LAST problem came when was running: liveview, GMAIL, sportypal...no more apps. I can't stop just a LV apps.
Can you understand why?
jay_jay_n said:
yeah i'm aware of that, just didn't like the 2 line display on them as well as pretty expensive for the nicer designs.
Thx, the homescreen is just launcher pro with a simple background and i just have different widgets for easy access i tend to clutter my screens a lot so i can get to things with a single press.
I really recommend to check what apps you have running in the background and see if it runs better with certain apps uninstalled or forced closed, i know there is a issue with sony ericssons part but with my recent tests i do have disconnect issues even with freed memory but not as much as when i run out of memory so when i leave it sitting alone i don't get disconnect issues for a few hours , it seems ok to me for now until i run into a time when i need to know whos calling and its disconnected and i have to pull out the tab.. i'm hoping thats not gonna happen but time will tell and further testing.. i really feel that the sony liveview app is to blame for a lot of the issues.
seriously check on the app "quick reboot" try the free version and see what happens the pro one i paid for so i could exclude the live view and its plugins from restarting, but when live view is acting up i use the free version that will restart all the apps right away.. so two icons on my screen to easily remedy the connection issues. I will still have to run tests to see if i can recreate the problems and fixes.
12-11-10
2nd part of my video of review is up on the first post =)
3rd part of my video of review is up on the first post =)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

jay_jay_n said:
12-13-10
Sooooo good news after having some issues here and there really not as bad as others with other android phones, I may have found a solution to fixing the reconnection issues, I rarely get disconnected, so I'm unsure if this fixes that issue, but the problematic issue I had was reconnecting from the liveview being off or when my bt was off as well as being disconnected, but I found a way and still testing to make sure its a viable solution to fixing the reconnection issues.
Ironically I waited the whole day waiting for a disconnect after trying the fix the first time and it seemed to work so just need further testing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any progress on this issue?

sony Ericsson answer me about my issue
"Dear ,
Thank you for contacting the Sony Ericsson support centre.
We are sorry to hear of the issues you have experienced using your Sony Ericsson LiveView with your Galaxy Tab.
We can confirm that to our knowledge the Sony Ericsson LiveView has been fully tested with your Galaxy Tab on the Android 2.2. If either your device itself or the handset is freezing when being used we can confirm this is not functioning correctly.
If you have attempted the reset and this has not resolved the issue then we would suggest you return your product to your point of sale under theirs returns policy; as it sounds like the device is faulty.
We apologise for any confusion or inconvenience caused.
Kind Regards,
Darren Sibbald
Sony Ericsson UK Customer Services"
any idea?

Where did you find the "phone connected/disconnected" audio file?

anyone knows how to find a screen protector for live view?

Alternative Nexus 7 Install in a Car

Alright, so this is actual a tablet install I had done previously with a Huawei S7 tablet a year and a half ago. It's gone through a few stages from 'eh, it works but it's ugly' to 'well that looks alright', and after I got an additional N7 to install, I think it's about read to share (But it's not 100% done)
The clock in my WRX was dead, and I really loved the torque app, so previously I cut an extra clock pod to hold a tablet, running power from the cig lighter below. It got horrible battery time, and the screen was dull, but it worked. Hooray for 2.2 tablet crapiness.
Now, I have a metal frame secured to the AC vents below the pod, with med. gauge wire securing it to the tubes running below it since the vents would flex when the actuator moved the tablet.
The tablet raises via a switch on my center console. I have a Pulse Width Modulation generator in the clock pod area, which generates a signal to an actuator based on the resistance between 2 pins. With 2 resistors wired in parallel (2 pots actually) and a switch at one of the resistors, I can change the resistance and have 2 adjustable points the actuator raises to. This allows me to raise the tablet by clicking a button.
The power is tied into the clock pod via a 12v to 5v 3A switching converter. This allows switched power to the actuators, tablet, and an auxiliary port I have in my center console, as well as give plenty of juice. The N7 is set so it turns on when there is power to it, and shuts off when it has been sitting idle for a few hours.
I still need to cut my old clock pod to cover the gaps along the edges, and use cloth underneath the tablet and on the back so that the wires are hidden, and it's not readily apparent I have a tablet in the car (one of my goals was not to have to hide it to keep from getting stolen).
I still don't have my appropriate right angle USB cable, which is why I am using just a standard cable in the photo. A right angle will be hidden in the sides, so it won't be visable unlike the cable I have now. I also plan to imbed a magnet so I can utilize the N7's automatic sleeping when it's laying down flat.
Bear in mind I do NOT want the tablet to play music. It's there for the torque app and navigation.
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Pics here:
http://imgur.com/Nk2MV0H,KN4fUju#1

AWESOME!! I also have a WRX (03) and was thinking of doing nearly the exact same thing only with an old smartphone (droid incredible), mainly because I didn't think a 7 inch tablet would fit in there. I'd love to hear more about all the parts you used and how/where you mounted them exactly. I am especially interested in the actuator you used.
I looked a little bit but didn't find anything I thought would package well or was affordable enough. I had finally settled on trying to use a pneumatic actuator that would pull vacuum from the engine with a check valve (for when under boost) to raise the screen when the car starts, and a solenoid system that would bleed the vacuum off when the car shuts off to lower the screen. I can't be sure that the vacuum of the engine would be enough to pull the actuator though, so I kind of tabled the idea.
One idea I saw somewhere that you might be interested in was someone used the app Tasker to turn on and off the tablet when the car was switched on and off. This eliminates having the tablet wait for hours before switching off. You could also set it to turn airplane mode on after a set amount of time to save battery as well I'd imagine.
IMO this is much better than replacing my head unit and trying to get everything to work, with this I can stream music and navigation prompts via the head unit's bluetooth and still have my phone connected for calls through the handsfree setup. Thanks for the inspiration, I'm very likely going this route now!

NemesisXV6800 said:
AWESOME!! I also have a WRX (03) and was thinking of doing nearly the exact same thing only with an old smartphone (droid incredible), mainly because I didn't think a 7 inch tablet would fit in there. I'd love to hear more about all the parts you used and how/where you mounted them exactly. I am especially interested in the actuator you used.
I looked a little bit but didn't find anything I thought would package well or was affordable enough. I had finally settled on trying to use a pneumatic actuator that would pull vacuum from the engine with a check valve (for when under boost) to raise the screen when the car starts, and a solenoid system that would bleed the vacuum off when the car shuts off to lower the screen. I can't be sure that the vacuum of the engine would be enough to pull the actuator though, so I kind of tabled the idea.
One idea I saw somewhere that you might be interested in was someone used the app Tasker to turn on and off the tablet when the car was switched on and off. This eliminates having the tablet wait for hours before switching off. You could also set it to turn airplane mode on after a set amount of time to save battery as well I'd imagine.
IMO this is much better than replacing my head unit and trying to get everything to work, with this I can stream music and navigation prompts via the head unit's bluetooth and still have my phone connected for calls through the handsfree setup. Thanks for the inspiration, I'm very likely going this route now!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The actuator I used is a Firgelli.
http://www.robotshop.com/firgelli-technologies-L12-100-210-06-P.html
I puttered around with servos for a while before deciding I was already committed with my time and spent the money for a good actuator. If you look on RC websites you can usually snag one for about 50-60 used. Because of the placement of the actuator, I needed somewhere around 6lbs of force static. I couldn't find a servo capable of it; so I got the low geared actuator which actually provides some decent speed to lift it.
I then used this to control it using the method described in my post.
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/rcelkits/sckit/
The frame and everything else was handmade (Hence it still needing some tightening up on being level, mainly because the vent is a curved surface). Mounting to the AC vent is a pain, but the only route if you go this way. I ran heavy wires from the mounting point on the vent to the tube running underneath them to keep the vents from flexing when the actuator moves. The only thing worth noting is that temperature slightly changes the resistance and sometimes it will vary by a few degrees at the top of the rotation if it's cold out. Not a huge deal.
The tablet sleeps most the time, and will automatically either wake up or start up when the car starts. It can sleep all night and not even lost 1% on the battery
Good luck!

Interesting about mounting to the vent, I was going to try to mount to the steel tube underneath there that holds the dash (using a clamp), but maybe there just isn't enough access to it to do that. I am going to fire up Solidworks later tonight and hopefully get started on a mount/tilt system that I thought up yesterday. I found a .stl file of the tablet to start with, but modeling up the dash isn't going to be extremely straightforward. Please keep us updated, I'd love to watch your progress. Thanks for the inspiration..

NemesisXV6800 said:
Interesting about mounting to the vent, I was going to try to mount to the steel tube underneath there that holds the dash (using a clamp), but maybe there just isn't enough access to it to do that. I am going to fire up Solidworks later tonight and hopefully get started on a mount/tilt system that I thought up yesterday. I found a .stl file of the tablet to start with, but modeling up the dash isn't going to be extremely straightforward. Please keep us updated, I'd love to watch your progress. Thanks for the inspiration..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There isn't a lot of room at all; I originally wanted to mount to something more secure but it's tight in there; the actuator itself is maybe .5" X .5" and it was tight getting it to mount to the tube underneath. I had to remove the glove box, and use a pipe clamp to finally get it secured.

Ir blaster nexus 4

I like that samsung **** and im build little audio jack with 2 infrared diodes from old remoters.
But it won't work what program to use or what program to build in same i crack little the jack but it still working i don't know.
I want have ir blaster for nexus 4 help me to build or navigate me to buy one .
Pictures of my ****
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[/url]
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hercules16 said:
I like that samsung **** and im build little audio jack with 2 infrared diodes from old remoters.
But it won't work what program to use or what program to build in same i crack little the jack but it still working i don't know.
I want have ir blaster for nexus 4 help me to build or navigate me to buy one .
Pictures of my ****
[/url]
[/IMG]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.microcontrollerbg.irdroid&feature=search_result
it should work. and please report if it works because i am interested in your project! thx

As far as I can tell by your pictures (they are a bit blurry when looking for details) you have your IR-LEDS connected to either the left or right channel of the 3.5mm plug. The other end seems to be connected to the ground. Please correct me if i'm wrong, this is based on what I can see on your pictures.
For the sensors to work correctly you should connect them to the left&right channel. ground should stay unconnected.
Another thing I have noticed, you have your 2 leds connected the same way. Both the positive sides soldered together (same for the negative sides). From what I've found on google you should wire them up mirrored (1 Led positive together with the 2nd Led negative). Quoting from an article: "two IR LEDs mounted in reverse [..] each IR LED will emit half the signal/frequency (15~20Khz). Together they will reproduce the original IR frequency exactly like the original remote."
source
EDIT1:
Have you checked if the sensors are working already? You can do this by directly connecting them to a power source (battery?) and use a phone/tablet camera pointed at them. Most phones/tablets dont have an Infra-red filter on their camera's, but the cameras pick up the light coming from the LEDs. So just look through the camera to see if they work! (works with normal remotes as well!)
Hope this helps, and please report your result. I am curious about this as well!
Meryn

MerynGoesAndroid said:
As far as I can tell by your pictures (they are a bit blurry when looking for details) you have your IR-LEDS connected to either the left or right channel of the 3.5mm plug. The other end seems to be connected to the ground. Please correct me if i'm wrong, this is based on what I can see on your pictures.
For the sensors to work correctly you should connect them to the left&right channel. ground should stay unconnected.
Another thing I have noticed, you have your 2 leds connected the same way. Both the positive sides soldered together (same for the negative sides). From what I've found on google you should wire them up mirrored (1 Led positive together with the 2nd Led negative). Quoting from an article: "two IR LEDs mounted in reverse [..] each IR LED will emit half the signal/frequency (15~20Khz). Together they will reproduce the original IR frequency exactly like the original remote."
source
EDIT1:
Have you checked if the sensors are working already? You can do this by directly connecting them to a power source (battery?) and use a phone/tablet camera pointed at them. Most phones/tablets dont have an Infra-red filter on their camera's, but the cameras pick up the light coming from the LEDs. So just look through the camera to see if they work! (works with normal remotes as well!)
Hope this helps, and please report your result. I am curious about this as well!
Meryn
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The headphone jack have too low power ,but may it work with battery and simple electricity chain.

hercules16 said:
The headphone jack have too low power ,but may it work with battery and simple electricity chain.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the headphone jack does have enough power to feed the IR-LEDs, unless you expect it to work at 10+ meters! Altho, since you salvaged LED's from older equipment, these may consume more power than you'd expect. Best thing to do is to buy some new, low-powered LEDs.
While testing them, dont forget that you have to throw some sounds out of your jack first before you check the LEDs, afaik the jack does not output anything while idle.
The external battery can work, but it can take some time and thought to get the right circuit working. I'd suggest you take a look at this (product here)
And again, please check if you wired the LEDs correctly! The LEDs should be wired mirrored, so that power from the left earphone will power 1 led, and power from the right earphone will power the other led. Ground should not be connected.

hercules16 said:
The headphone jack have too low power ,but may it work with battery and simple electricity chain.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so does it work in small distances (f.e. 1 meter)?

ttheodorou said:
so does it work in small distances (f.e. 1 meter)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It work with moderate wav files and new diods the distance is a about 3 meters.

hercules16 said:
It work with moderate wav files and new diods the distance is a about 3 meters.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you got it working now?

MerynGoesAndroid said:
Have you got it working now?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes.Thank you for the idea with new diods maybe an old recommend more power.

hercules16 said:
It work with moderate wav files and new diods the distance is a about 3 meters.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hercules16 said:
Yes.Thank you for the idea with new diods maybe an old recommend more power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May I ask, how have you got the leds connected to the 3.5mm jack? From L/R to ground?

MerynGoesAndroid said:
May I ask, how have you got the leds connected to the 3.5mm jack? From L/R to ground?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The scheme is +led- and -led+ and regular and one opposite.

hercules16 said:
The scheme is +led- and -led+ and regular and one opposite.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but seeing from your pics youve connected them to Left or Right and Ground. Have you changed this back to L&R or did it work with Ground?

MerynGoesAndroid said:
Yes but seeing from your pics youve connected them to Left or Right and Ground. Have you changed this back to L&R or did it work with Ground?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I was changed to L/R in the picture is invalid . I can make new pics in Saturday and Sunday and will make little guide .

hercules16 said:
Yes I was changed to L/R in the picture is invalid . I can make new pics in Saturday and Sunday and will make little guide .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think a guide would be greatly appreciated around these forums, and I'm interested in your end-product. Looking forward to the pics!

MerynGoesAndroid said:
I think a guide would be greatly appreciated around these forums, and I'm interested in your end-product. Looking forward to the pics!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It would be great anyone who use SDK to build a simple apk.

hercules16 said:
It would be great anyone who use SDK to build a simple apk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since there are a lot of different devices controlled by infrared, and many of them uses different IR commands, it will be hard to make a simple app. The best I've come by is the app by IRdroid, it has a basic database with some standard commands. Give it a go! (dont forget to update the database first).
If you plan to use it for a specific device, then yes. You can record your standard remote and save the commands, make a simple GUI and connect the commands (after you made them to wav) to the right buttons.

MerynGoesAndroid said:
Since there are a lot of different devices controlled by infrared, and many of them uses different IR commands, it will be hard to make a simple app. The best I've come by is the app by IRdroid, it has a basic database with some standard commands. Give it a go! (dont forget to update the database first).
If you plan to use it for a specific device, then yes. You can record your standard remote and save the commands, make a simple GUI and connect the commands (after you made them to wav) to the right buttons.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks.

hercules16 said:
Yes I was changed to L/R in the picture is invalid . I can make new pics in Saturday and Sunday and will make little guide .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am very interested in your little project and i would like to see a tutorial from you or simply a paint picture to show us how exactly you made this possible.
thx in advance mate

ttheodorou said:
i am very interested in your little project and i would like to see a tutorial from you or simply a paint picture to show us how exactly you made this possible.
thx in advance mate
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is how you should connect it (resistor not needed, but added for extra protection).
Dont directly solder them on the headphone pins like above, solder them on the inside (where normally the wires come out).

MerynGoesAndroid said:
This is how you should connect it (resistor not needed, but added for extra protection).
Dont directly solder them on the headphone pins like above, solder them on the inside (where normally the wires come out).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thx mate. i will try it when i find the infrared leds.