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N7 head unit install 2007 Toyota Tundra

So I bit the bullet when the N7 came to the market and decided to install it in my dash.
What you can't see in the pics:
stock HU moved back 2" to allow clearance for tablet
stock volume controls were removed and relocated to spare plugs under heat controls
stock display/FM controls was relocated and velcro'd to top of HU (you cannot see the display at all)
extended N7 Power button so I can power cycle it
Found 2 after market slim adhesive backed buttons to allow to toggle between aux input (tablet) and FM radio. They were the ONLY thing I could find that was even close to stock looking. I still have to print labels for them.
So I retained all stock vol/channel controls, used the aux in for tha tablet audio, and now have a WAY better entertainment package than stock.
I lost (or just didn't care to integrate):
Preset ability
FM display
AM function
So, here are the pics:
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mixinguiness said:
So I bit the bullet when the N7 came to the market and decided to install it in my dash.
What you can't see in the pics:
stock HU moved back 2" to allow clearance for tablet
stock volume controls were removed and relocated to spare plugs under heat controls
stock display/FM controls was relocated and velcro'd to top of HU (you cannot see the display at all)
extended N7 Power button so I can power cycle it
Found 2 after market slim adhesive backed buttons to allow to toggle between aux input (tablet) and FM radio. They were the ONLY thing I could find that was even close to stock looking. I still have to print labels for them.
So I retained all stock vol/channel controls, used the aux in for tha tablet audio, and now have a WAY better entertainment package than stock.
I lost (or just didn't care to integrate):
Preset ability
FM display
AM function
So, here are the pics:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's pretty sweet, good job! Did you choose not to make the tablet removable? From the pics, it doesn't look removable. Any plans on crafting some kind of cover for it for security purposes? I know the tablet is cheap, but people out there like to be assholes for no apparent reason.

beardedspoooon said:
That's pretty sweet, good job! Did you choose not to make the tablet removable? From the pics, it doesn't look removable. Any plans on crafting some kind of cover for it for security purposes? I know the tablet is cheap, but people out there like to be assholes for no apparent reason.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was wondering that as well and thinking that it be pretty neat if he was able to make it so it slides in and out so it be something similar to a dvd tv. Still cool nontheless! And impressive that you were able to move everything around to still make it work.

I did not want it to be removable because when you do this much work to have an in dash entertainment system, if you lose it, it gets stolen, or damaged, you have no music!
I have seen some that slide in and out and thought they were cool, but for what I wanted, this works perfect.
Also, I forgot to mention.. I tether through my Bionic to get 4G internet (where available) and use Jango as my internet radio. It is highly customization and you can make some pretty awesome stations. Only problem is they haven't implemented the action bar yet, so my audio settings are still on low and I cant exit without a force close... but they will upgrade, hopefully.

How did you run the power? Did you snip the usb end off and run into the fuse panel? Looks fantastic by the way.

I have a question, obviously it charges from the car battery but what if it turns off???
More of a case of how did you extend the power button
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

E_Goldstein said:
I have a question, obviously it charges from the car battery but what if it turns off???
More of a case of how did you extend the power button
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Power was a second 12v power outlet spliced in behind the stock one. Tis provides constant charge when there is a draw, and turns off when charged. At least thats how it has been working. I think there might be something in the truck wiring that senses draw.
I use screen off to manually turn off the screen. I had it set to timeout, but that interfered with having the screen on while driving.
I cracked the case open and used my dmm to find 2 small solder pads that were shorted with the power button. After soldering on some very fine gauge wire i added a pushbutton switch that i havent found a home for just yet.
Also forgot to mention, the factory stereo was gutted of the cd changer, and all i would need to go back to stock is 2 plugs for the vol/tuner control and a new head unit which you can score for $50 on ebay.

Very nice. Would love to do this on my 02 v6 mustang.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium

Thanks for posting. Need ideas for how to do it on my 07 Acura rdx.

rican408 said:
Thanks for posting. Need ideas for how to do it on my 07 Acura rdx.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best way to start is to buy a double din kit for your car. The rest is pretty straight forward.

Alternative Nexus 7 Install in a Car

Alright, so this is actual a tablet install I had done previously with a Huawei S7 tablet a year and a half ago. It's gone through a few stages from 'eh, it works but it's ugly' to 'well that looks alright', and after I got an additional N7 to install, I think it's about read to share (But it's not 100% done)
The clock in my WRX was dead, and I really loved the torque app, so previously I cut an extra clock pod to hold a tablet, running power from the cig lighter below. It got horrible battery time, and the screen was dull, but it worked. Hooray for 2.2 tablet crapiness.
Now, I have a metal frame secured to the AC vents below the pod, with med. gauge wire securing it to the tubes running below it since the vents would flex when the actuator moved the tablet.
The tablet raises via a switch on my center console. I have a Pulse Width Modulation generator in the clock pod area, which generates a signal to an actuator based on the resistance between 2 pins. With 2 resistors wired in parallel (2 pots actually) and a switch at one of the resistors, I can change the resistance and have 2 adjustable points the actuator raises to. This allows me to raise the tablet by clicking a button.
The power is tied into the clock pod via a 12v to 5v 3A switching converter. This allows switched power to the actuators, tablet, and an auxiliary port I have in my center console, as well as give plenty of juice. The N7 is set so it turns on when there is power to it, and shuts off when it has been sitting idle for a few hours.
I still need to cut my old clock pod to cover the gaps along the edges, and use cloth underneath the tablet and on the back so that the wires are hidden, and it's not readily apparent I have a tablet in the car (one of my goals was not to have to hide it to keep from getting stolen).
I still don't have my appropriate right angle USB cable, which is why I am using just a standard cable in the photo. A right angle will be hidden in the sides, so it won't be visable unlike the cable I have now. I also plan to imbed a magnet so I can utilize the N7's automatic sleeping when it's laying down flat.
Bear in mind I do NOT want the tablet to play music. It's there for the torque app and navigation.
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Pics here:
http://imgur.com/Nk2MV0H,KN4fUju#1

AWESOME!! I also have a WRX (03) and was thinking of doing nearly the exact same thing only with an old smartphone (droid incredible), mainly because I didn't think a 7 inch tablet would fit in there. I'd love to hear more about all the parts you used and how/where you mounted them exactly. I am especially interested in the actuator you used.
I looked a little bit but didn't find anything I thought would package well or was affordable enough. I had finally settled on trying to use a pneumatic actuator that would pull vacuum from the engine with a check valve (for when under boost) to raise the screen when the car starts, and a solenoid system that would bleed the vacuum off when the car shuts off to lower the screen. I can't be sure that the vacuum of the engine would be enough to pull the actuator though, so I kind of tabled the idea.
One idea I saw somewhere that you might be interested in was someone used the app Tasker to turn on and off the tablet when the car was switched on and off. This eliminates having the tablet wait for hours before switching off. You could also set it to turn airplane mode on after a set amount of time to save battery as well I'd imagine.
IMO this is much better than replacing my head unit and trying to get everything to work, with this I can stream music and navigation prompts via the head unit's bluetooth and still have my phone connected for calls through the handsfree setup. Thanks for the inspiration, I'm very likely going this route now!

NemesisXV6800 said:
AWESOME!! I also have a WRX (03) and was thinking of doing nearly the exact same thing only with an old smartphone (droid incredible), mainly because I didn't think a 7 inch tablet would fit in there. I'd love to hear more about all the parts you used and how/where you mounted them exactly. I am especially interested in the actuator you used.
I looked a little bit but didn't find anything I thought would package well or was affordable enough. I had finally settled on trying to use a pneumatic actuator that would pull vacuum from the engine with a check valve (for when under boost) to raise the screen when the car starts, and a solenoid system that would bleed the vacuum off when the car shuts off to lower the screen. I can't be sure that the vacuum of the engine would be enough to pull the actuator though, so I kind of tabled the idea.
One idea I saw somewhere that you might be interested in was someone used the app Tasker to turn on and off the tablet when the car was switched on and off. This eliminates having the tablet wait for hours before switching off. You could also set it to turn airplane mode on after a set amount of time to save battery as well I'd imagine.
IMO this is much better than replacing my head unit and trying to get everything to work, with this I can stream music and navigation prompts via the head unit's bluetooth and still have my phone connected for calls through the handsfree setup. Thanks for the inspiration, I'm very likely going this route now!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The actuator I used is a Firgelli.
http://www.robotshop.com/firgelli-technologies-L12-100-210-06-P.html
I puttered around with servos for a while before deciding I was already committed with my time and spent the money for a good actuator. If you look on RC websites you can usually snag one for about 50-60 used. Because of the placement of the actuator, I needed somewhere around 6lbs of force static. I couldn't find a servo capable of it; so I got the low geared actuator which actually provides some decent speed to lift it.
I then used this to control it using the method described in my post.
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/rcelkits/sckit/
The frame and everything else was handmade (Hence it still needing some tightening up on being level, mainly because the vent is a curved surface). Mounting to the AC vent is a pain, but the only route if you go this way. I ran heavy wires from the mounting point on the vent to the tube running underneath them to keep the vents from flexing when the actuator moves. The only thing worth noting is that temperature slightly changes the resistance and sometimes it will vary by a few degrees at the top of the rotation if it's cold out. Not a huge deal.
The tablet sleeps most the time, and will automatically either wake up or start up when the car starts. It can sleep all night and not even lost 1% on the battery
Good luck!

Interesting about mounting to the vent, I was going to try to mount to the steel tube underneath there that holds the dash (using a clamp), but maybe there just isn't enough access to it to do that. I am going to fire up Solidworks later tonight and hopefully get started on a mount/tilt system that I thought up yesterday. I found a .stl file of the tablet to start with, but modeling up the dash isn't going to be extremely straightforward. Please keep us updated, I'd love to watch your progress. Thanks for the inspiration..

NemesisXV6800 said:
Interesting about mounting to the vent, I was going to try to mount to the steel tube underneath there that holds the dash (using a clamp), but maybe there just isn't enough access to it to do that. I am going to fire up Solidworks later tonight and hopefully get started on a mount/tilt system that I thought up yesterday. I found a .stl file of the tablet to start with, but modeling up the dash isn't going to be extremely straightforward. Please keep us updated, I'd love to watch your progress. Thanks for the inspiration..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There isn't a lot of room at all; I originally wanted to mount to something more secure but it's tight in there; the actuator itself is maybe .5" X .5" and it was tight getting it to mount to the tube underneath. I had to remove the glove box, and use a pipe clamp to finally get it secured.

[Q] HTC One strange G-Sensor problem

Good afternoon,
I am having the strangest problem with my HTC One: I ride a Buell 1125r (the 'muscle car' of motorcycles) and when I am riding I like to listen to music through headphones. The odd problem is that when accelerating, especially when putting on a large burst of speed, it causes the music player (Google Play Music) to skip to the next song...and the next...and the next...and the next...etc. Something interesting is that if I immediately drop acceleration, sometimes it will stop skipping and play the song it landed on. If I keep going at the speed I achieved (sometimes as low as 50 mph), I can stop at a stoplight and watch the cover art flick by over and over; it doesn't stop skipping for several minutes. I try shaking the device when stationary to see if it is some sort of shake to shuffle, but nothing happens.
WTF...? Please help...tearing hair out...
HTC One UL
Android Revolution HD 30
KitKat 4.4.2

CryptoCombat said:
Good afternoon,
I am having the strangest problem with my HTC One: I ride a Buell 1125r (the 'muscle car' of motorcycles) and when I am riding I like to listen to music through headphones. The odd problem is that when accelerating, especially when putting on a large burst of speed, it causes the music player (Google Play Music) to skip to the next song...and the next...and the next...and the next...etc. Something interesting is that if I immediately drop acceleration, sometimes it will stop skipping and play the song it landed on. If I keep going at the speed I achieved (sometimes as low as 50 mph), I can stop at a stoplight and watch the cover art flick by over and over; it doesn't stop skipping for several minutes. I try shaking the device when stationary to see if it is some sort of shake to shuffle, but nothing happens.
WTF...? Please help...tearing hair out...
HTC One UL
Android Revolution HD 30
KitKat 4.4.2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's quite strange indeed. I'll try this too next morning. If I also get the same error, maybe we will be able to fix it. Otherwise you might have to go to the HTC support.
Have you got a rooted One?

LibertyMarine said:
That's quite strange indeed. I'll try this too next morning. If I also get the same error, maybe we will be able to fix it. Otherwise you might have to go to the HTC support.
Have you got a rooted One?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
S-Off
Rooted
G-Sensor is calibrated and working properly in other apps.

CryptoCombat said:
S-Off
Rooted
G-Sensor is calibrated and working properly in other apps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, I just wanted to know that in case of a return.
- Does this error also occure when you accelerate your phone when holding it in your hands? (not the classic shake you mentioned, for example making a circle in the air)
- In what position related to the ground do you have your phone when accelerating?
- How fast do you accelerate? Can you say it in m/s² ? Or you can also say how long you need to accelerate to 50mph or other speeds.
- I quickly want to calculate what acceleration your phone has to bear.
- What would be interesting. When you are on a constant speed of 50mph, do you also have this error after several minutes?

LibertyMarine said:
Ok, I just wanted to know that in case of a return.
- Does this error also occure when you accelerate your phone when holding it in your hands? (not the classic shake you mentioned, for example making a circle in the air)
- In what position related to the ground do you have your phone when accelerating?
- How fast do you accelerate? Can you say it in m/s² ? Or you can also say how long you need to accelerate to 50mph or other speeds.
- I quickly want to calculate what acceleration your phone has to bear.
- What would be interesting. When you are on a constant speed of 50mph, do you also have this error after several minutes?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
- I don't know...I don't make a habit of riding with my phone in hand, much less laying rubber...I did try spinning in a circle and did not get that result. It was fast enough to make my hand tingle and flush.
- In jeans pocket so basically diagonal like a playing card on it's corner.
- 0-60 in 2.8 fastest but occurs at everything down to about 6 sec so about 9.6m/s² to 4.5m/s²?
- cool!
- Yes. Like I mentioned, the skipping continues until the speed is decreased.

CryptoCombat said:
- I don't know...I don't make a habit of riding with my phone in hand, much less laying rubber...I did try spinning in a circle and did not get that result. It was fast enough to make my hand tingle and flush.
- In jeans pocket so basically diagonal like a playing card on it's corner.
- 0-60 in 2.8 fastest but occurs at everything down to about 6 sec.
- cool!
- Yes. Like I mentioned, the skipping continues until the speed is decreased.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
- ok... even more strange.
- ok... that's a legit position
- the phone is accelerated at maximum with 13.8 m/s² this is about 1.4 times the earth acceleration. Here the calculation that you can see it a bit better:
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And this acceleration doesn't seem to be too extreme
- Ok... even MORE strange^^ Because if you are on a constant speed the phone doesn't experience acceleration. Some basic physic laws. It's the way it is, to change speed or direction there has to be a force. And if there is a force there is also an acceleration But you know this I think!
So maybe it has to do something with GPS? But this wouldn't explane the fact that it keeps spinning around when you stay still.
If you've got the time to do that, make a backup and make a clean reinstall of your ROM and try it out again.

LibertyMarine said:
- ok... even more strange.
- ok... that's a legit position
- the phone is accelerated at maximum with 13.8 m/s² this is about 1.4 times the earth acceleration. Here the calculation that you can see it a bit better:
<snip>
And this acceleration doesn't seem to be too extreme
- Ok... even MORE strange^^ Because if you are on a constant speed the phone doesn't experience acceleration. Some basic physic laws. It's the way it is, to change speed or direction there has to be a force. And if there is a force there is also an acceleration But you know this I think!
So maybe it has to do something with GPS? But this wouldn't explane the fact that it keeps spinning around when you stay still.
If you've got the time to do that, make a backup and make a clean reinstall of your ROM and try it out again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can try that, but it did this when I was on stock firmware too. As I mentioned before, the G-Sensor does work properly everywhere else...but it occurred to me that it may be a side effect of a magnetic field generated by the bike instead? That would explain the continued disruption at constant speed. But what would the field be affecting? the G-Sensor? The capacitive touch? Something else?
It should be noted that it has never done this in my car. of course that thing is a little Mazda M3 and doesn't have even half the acceleration as my bike...

CryptoCombat said:
I can try that, but it did this when I was on stock firmware too. As I mentioned before, the G-Sensor does work properly everywhere else...but it occurred to me that it may be a side effect of a magnetic field generated by the bike instead? That would explain the continued disruption at constant speed. But what would the field be affecting? the G-Sensor? The capacitive touch? Something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A magnetic field. Maybe... use a accelometer sensor logger during your next ride on your bike. And send the data to me... or look for some kind of "unexpected behaviour"
And this idea with the magnetic field. You would have to ask at the shop where you bought the bike if it emmits some kind of electromagnetic radiation. But this also shouldn't cause issues.
And because you did already try it on stock. Don't try it again. It most likely won't work.
P.S.
Sry, I won't answer today anymore. GTM +1

LibertyMarine said:
A magnetic field. Maybe... use a accelometer sensor logger during your next ride on your bike. And send the data to me... or look for some kind of "unexpected behaviour"
And this idea with the magnetic field. You would have to ask at the shop where you bought the bike if it emmits some kind of electromagnetic radiation. But this also shouldn't cause issues.
And because you did already try it on stock. Don't try it again. It most likely won't work.
P.S.
Sry, I won't answer today anymore. GTM +1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Attached logs.

CryptoCombat said:
Attached logs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll analyse over the weekend. this is quite some data. I'll write a short program that reads it out^^

LibertyMarine said:
I'll analyse over the weekend. this is quite some data. I'll write a short program that reads it out^^
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I parsed them into excel using csv format mode. Check out sheet two for a graph. the orange line (labeled sum) is the sum of the x,y and z readings' absolute values. there's some very interesting data in the magnetometer file. anytime I really hammered down on the gas, the magnetic field shot up. Beyond 100 in a spot or two in sum!

CryptoCombat said:
I parsed them into excel using csv format mode. Check out sheet two for a graph. the orange line (labeled sum) is the sum of the x,y and z readings' absolute values. there's some very interesting data in the magnetometer file. anytime I really hammered down on the gas, the magnetic field shot up. Beyond 100 in a spot or two in sum!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok, I think the accelometer looks ok. but the magnetic field is indeed very strange. Today I tested it too.. but there was no special effect to the magnetic field.
Maybe ask your bike vendor if the bike emmits electromagnetic radiation. If yes, it's totally ok that your magnetometer on your phone mesures this. If not, there might be another reason.
But sorry, I can't give you more informations or ideas. But if I think about something possible I'll notify you.
---------- Post added at 05:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:19 PM ----------
CryptoCombat said:
I parsed them into excel using csv format mode. Check out sheet two for a graph. the orange line (labeled sum) is the sum of the x,y and z readings' absolute values. there's some very interesting data in the magnetometer file. anytime I really hammered down on the gas, the magnetic field shot up. Beyond 100 in a spot or two in sum!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I checked your accelometer graph again. You calculated the sum the wrong way. The actual way to calculate it is:
sum = √(a₁² + a₂² + a₃²)
And with that you get this graph:

Interesting update: with no headphones plugged in, the skipping does not occur. I started a playlist through the built in speakers and after a very fast drive it was on track to the second.
I'm guessing the magnetic field generated by the alternator is causing induction feedback in the headphone wires. Otherwise I'm stumped.
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

mmm
try a differnet pair of headphones maybe?

stldaniel said:
try a differnet pair of headphones maybe?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. That's my next step. Sadface, these Beats earbuds are nice
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

CryptoCombat said:
Interesting update: with no headphones plugged in, the skipping does not occur. I started a playlist through the built in speakers and after a very fast drive it was on track to the second.
I'm guessing the magnetic field generated by the alternator is causing induction feedback in the headphone wires. Otherwise I'm stumped.
Sent from my HTC One using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why didn't you mention or quote me? I would have been able to answer... but I didn't get any notification. Yes.. maybe, because this graph was quite strange. You can make an isolation with another magnetic field that compensates these fluctiations.

i am so glad i found this post. i just got my one and am having the exact same problem. i even have htc sending me a new pair of headphones. i was going to try using my old s3 headphones but the one wont even recognize them when i plug them in.
i have to say, all your graphs and math is way to much for me. all i know is my phone hates my motorcycle. whats really weird is, i can make it on the streets to the fwy. its once i get on the fwy that things go all skippy.
did you ever find a solution?

vvelvetelvis said:
i am so glad i found this post. i just got my one and am having the exact same problem. i even have htc sending me a new pair of headphones. i was going to try using my old s3 headphones but the one wont even recognize them when i plug them in.
i have to say, all your graphs and math is way to much for me. all i know is my phone hates my motorcycle. whats really weird is, i can make it on the streets to the fwy. its once i get on the fwy that things go all skippy.
did you ever find a solution?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't get a notification about this post. Solution is to use almost any other headphones for anyone else having this problem. The Beats buds that shipped with the m7 Beats model have flat wires which as a general rule are much more susceptible to electrostatic interference.

CryptoCombat said:
I didn't get a notification about this post. Solution is to use almost any other headphones for anyone else having this problem. The Beats buds that shipped with the m7 Beats model have flat wires which are much more susceptible to electrostatic interference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is kind of what I did. I got a pair of skull candy headphones without the mic. Hard to find a pair without the mic. They still have a flat cable but work great.

Old Discussion about CarJoying RK3188 RK3066 2 Din Head Units (MTCB-Type)

Note from @dark alex:
Please note and know that Joying (Joyous) units are MTCB-Units and therefore discussions made here also apply to any other MTCB-Units and vice versa.
You are requested to participate and create discussions and Q&A-Threads instead of clearing things here because there is no difference except slight modifications in hardware design and the outer optics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These all seem to be the same base model/design with the following options:
http://www.carjoying.com/2-din-car-gps-navigation/7-double-din-audio.html
JY-UQ124 = RK3188 Quad Core, 16 GB Flash, 1024*600 Screen
JY-UQ127 = RK3188 Quad Core, 16 GB Flash, 800*480 Screen
J-U1004 = RK3066 Dual Core, 8GB Flash, 1024*600 Screen.
J-U1011 = RK3066 Dual Core, 8GB Flash, 800*480 Screen.
They all have the same appearance. They have a 7" screen, with a single large knob (push for power), and a couple of buttons on the left side.
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Internal
Here are some internal images.
The board seems to be a different, possibly newer design than what is shown in the HuiFei thread for the KGL/KLD models. The board does not have any silk screen printing identifying the components and the board is in a slightly different layout it seems.
Here is how it identifies itself on the android about screen:

This is the unit I have been looking at as I like the buttons for no look usage. Do you think it is good to buy it now or wait until they figure out Lolipop?

I chose this unit because it
a) didn't waste space with a DVD Slot which I would never use (come on its 2015 already), and so it had a full 7" screen
b) it HAS at least a volume knob. I don't like the new designs with all touch screen and no actual knobs or buttons. I just could not imagine using a touch slider for volume of the radio in the car. yuck.
c) I was impressed that carjoying.com actually seems to support their customers pretty well after the sale(in a very broken engrish sort of way but they are trying), that they actually answer questions very quickly (experienced a 1 day response to a question about upgrading personally), that they have a website where they have updates posted etc..
d) The price was pretty good. I spent $262 for the best model specs you can get, they have pretty good prices and fast free shipping via DHL Express from china.
As far as waiting for Android 5.. I don't know if its a big deal. Even if they don't there are going to be millions of devices out there that will be running 4.x for years and years.
You could wait of course, because we all know something better always comes along, but I figured for $250 it was worth it even if I replaced it in a few years with something better.
So far I am very impressed with this unit and its speed and functionality. All the Android Head Units are very very similar, all almost all run the same software, and have the same ports on the back, etc... it mostly comes down to the front panel button layouts, if you want a dvd slot on the front etc.. But other than the button layouts, any unit with the quad core RK3188, the 1024x600 screen, and 16GB Flash storage onboard will all be nearly the same between them all.
So frankly, I don't think there is really THAT much technical difference between the various brands out there. To me it comes down to price, and if I like the physical design/button layout of the device. And carjoying is the only one that I have found that has this particular front panel layout that I personally thought was the best design.

nixfu said:
I chose this unit because it
a) didn't waste space with a DVD Slot which I would never use (come on its 2015 already), and so it had a full 7" screen
b) it HAS at least a volume knob. I don't like the new designs with all touch screen and no actual knobs or buttons. I just could not imagine using a touch slider for volume of the radio in the car. yuck.
c) I was impressed that carjoying.com actually seems to support their customers pretty well after the sale(in a very broken engrish sort of way but they are trying), that they actually answer questions very quickly (experienced a 1 day response to a question about upgrading personally), that they have a website where they have updates posted etc..
d) The price was pretty good. I spent $262 for the best model specs you can get, they have pretty good prices and fast free shipping via DHL Express from china.
As far as waiting for Android 5.. I don't know if its a big deal. Even if they don't there are going to be millions of devices out there that will be running 4.x for years and years.
You could wait of course, because we all know something better always comes along, but I figured for $250 it was worth it even if I replaced it in a few years with something better.
So far I am very impressed with this unit and its speed and functionality. All the Android Head Units are very very similar, all almost all run the same software, and have the same ports on the back, etc... it mostly comes down to the front panel button layouts, if you want a dvd slot on the front etc.. But other than the button layouts, any unit with the quad core RK3188, the 1024x600 screen, and 16GB Flash storage onboard will all be nearly the same between them all.
So frankly, I don't think there is really THAT much technical difference between the various brands out there. To me it comes down to price, and if I like the physical design/button layout of the device. And carjoying is the only one that I have found that has this particular front panel layout that I personally thought was the best design.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All of your points on why you chose this unit is exactly what I am concluding in why it would be great unit to buy. This is after spending a crap load of time on Amazon, Alibaba, Google etc. Just trying to make head and tails of all these different HU takes about a week as they list a lot of the exact same units at different prices but from what you can tell in the item description they have the exact same specs. Your bottom line of cpu, screen and storage is pretty much the best specs out there with a sorta "name brand" in Joying behind them.
I am looking to put this in an 2000 Audi S4 that is coming from a stock HU. Do you have an recommendations on the install? I know that Metra has most of the stuff I will need but this is the list I have so far:
2 Din Audi Frame
Wire harness
Converter
and maybe a AM/FM amplifier.
How long does it take for the unit to boot up? Is is basically AOSP or is there some sort of launcher that comes with it? Can I run Nova with it?
Thanks again for any information you can give

since one week i'm the happy user of this fantastical unit. RK3188 Quad core , 1024 x 600, 16 GB
Not mounted in car, for this time, next week, but i have upgraded 2 times firmware thank's Joying for your customers following.
Ultra responsive screen, excellent light quality and resolution, very ergonomic usage. It's the better unit i've never had....
Only a little regret, the cap over the SD cards slot seem fragile made with cheap plastic... and it's the only place where i have problem for insert or extract cards because need using a sort of needle for this, too small place.
But without these little default, it's the perfect unit for me...
Continue to support your customers by regular upgrades ( Lollipop ? )
THANKS JOYING

nixfu said:
Here are some internal images.
The board seems to be a different, possibly newer design than what is shown in the HuiFei thread for the KGL/KLD models. The board does not have any silk screen printing identifying the components and the board is in a slightly different layout it seems.
Here is how it identifies itself on the android about screen:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting, is it in the future possible to update the cpu,memory and storage, if you take out the soc from the motherboard?

the cap over the SD cards slot seem fragile made with cheap plastic
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I have noticed the same thing. the door/cap is poorly designed. you kinda have to play with it to get it to close and go back flush again with the other buttons. I also that that is quite possibly my biggest issue so far with the unit.
I plan on just putting a 64GB SD card in there and leaving it, and transferring stuff via wifi onto it and never having to insert/remove it again. But, if you were planning on removing the microSD all the time I would guess it would not last very long before breaking.
If you want to do this sort of thing, I would recommend instead switching to a USB stick and plugging/unplugging it into one of the USB ports instead and leave the SD card(S) more or less permanently installed.

I did some power usage measurements on the bench today. I did the tests with a HP Agilent programmable power supply at 12V.
FULLY RUNNING: It uses about 1.2 Amps when it is fully up and running with bluetooth and wifi turned on.
SLEEPING: when the ACC power is turned off, it goes into a lower power mode and waits for the time (30sec-XXmins+) set in settings before fully shutting down. If the ACC is turned back on in that time, it comes instantly back on. In this state it pulls about 500 milliamps or so.
OFF: when fully off, it will draw about 4-5 milliamps from the battery which is quite low and makes me not worry about it draining the battery

I am just about ready to do the install into the vehicle. I did a few mods to the unit first.
Doing some testing on the bench proved that even though it seems to be a slightly different design, this unit also has the poor microphone audio quality of other HuiFei units when operating hands free bluetooth calling. There was quite a bit of noise/humming etc using the built in mic on the front panel. The external mic jack was a little better and had a little less noise but it still was not great. So I went ahead and did the mod everyone was doing to their HuiFei units to connect directly to the mic input on the bluetooth card.
On this unit, the board layout does not have a simple capacitor you can unsolder to disconnect it from the built in mic inputs. It seems to have a trace that goes from the bluetooth card directly to the front panel ribbon cable. I didn't want to trace it up onto that board so I decided to simply use a razor blade and cut the trace on the board (see picture below) which comes from the 4th pin on the bluetooth board connector (mic+). It looks messier than it really is because you have to first scrape through the solder mask etc. and it gets all scratched up in the process. I could see what I was doing better on the bench under magnification though so I know I did it correctly..
I then cut the existing mic cable plugged into the board and soldered it directly to the MIC+ and SGND pins on the bluetooth card.

I also decided to change the improvised wifi antenna which was on the unit that really was just a section of exposed coax, into being an actual RP-SMA jack on the back which I could then attach any wifi antenna. For now I used the antenna from an old wifi router I had in my junk box, I am actually considering adding an external wifi antenna on the outside of the car such as one of these. I imagine that would be a huge range booster.

@ nixfu, we don't see your pictures....

superboost said:
@ nixfu, we don't see your pictures....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Opps.. fixed

Stock recovery
Hello everyone.
I have the RK3066 wich i installed twrp on cuz i though i had to use it to be able to flash roms but that is not the case. now i wanna flash the original firmware back but i didnt save it before.
can anyone save the stock recovery and upload it please ? it can be done with flashify app on the play store
you just need to root the device ( o to Settings->Factory Settings, and enter *#hct#root# as the password, it enables root on the device ), then install flashify and choose backup recovery
thanks in advance, i really need it

nixfu said:
Opps.. fixed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe it's me, but I still don't see the pictures

nixfu said:
I am just about ready to do the install into the vehicle. I did a few mods to the unit first.
Doing some testing on the bench proved that even though it seems to be a slightly different design, this unit also has the poor microphone audio quality of other HuiFei units when operating hands free bluetooth calling. There was quite a bit of noise/humming etc using the built in mic on the front panel. The external mic jack was a little better and had a little less noise but it still was not great. So I went ahead and did the mod everyone was doing to their HuiFei units to connect directly to the mic input on the bluetooth card.
On this unit, the board layout does not have a simple capacitor you can unsolder to disconnect it from the built in mic inputs. It seems to have a trace that goes from the bluetooth card directly to the front panel ribbon cable. I didn't want to trace it up onto that board so I decided to simply use a razor blade and cut the trace on the board (see picture below) which comes from the 4th pin on the bluetooth board connector (mic+). It looks messier than it really is because you have to first scrape through the solder mask etc. and it gets all scratched up in the process. I could see what I was doing better on the bench under magnification though so I know I did it correctly..
I then cut the existing mic cable plugged into the board and soldered it directly to the MIC+ and SGND pins on the bluetooth card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your pics aren't working for me
It ended up cutting the pin that goes from module to board
But the trace you're referring to doesn't actually go to that ribbon cable closest to the module.
It actually runs across the front (infront of the ribbon cables) then over to the external mic plug somewhere over there

nixfu said:
Opps.. fixed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey @nixfu. Still unable to see the pictures.
I am really interested in checking them out.
Thanks for taking the time to post them.

i own this unit, close to perfect
i bought this one from Germany to speed up delivery and avoid taxes (it takes 3 days to arrive to me in France):
joying-europe-eu-warehouse-2015-latest-aftermarket-7-inch-2-double-din-1024-600-in-dash-car-stereo-android-4-4-4-kitkat-quad-core-head-unit-autoradio-16-gb-memory-touch-screen-airplay-gps-navigation-radio-audio-system-support
I chose this one because of
- 7 inch
- 4 core RK3188
- Android 4.4 and future 5
- Physical buttons
- ISO provided
- very regularly firmware releases
- more powerful model for a veru correct price to compare to major brands of market
- The technician/vendor Rambo is very communicative/avalaible, even after buying
It replaces a Parrot smart, which is a very good unit too but stayed at android 2.2
I approve all previous comments on this unit, very high end finished except plastic cache of micro-SD cards which looks cheap.
Unit starts in 15 seconds, good suprise. Interface is very reactive and i can install what i want. Sound is good and radio reception too.
My concerns are:
- no tethering bluetooth 4G sharing with my mobile phone, only wifi hotspot works. It's a pitty because it drains battery of my phone.
- no vocal command for calling, searching music
- only GPS app could be changed as default, no music app neither radio app
- it's not very easy to tap on the letters located in the border because of the physical extended frame in high
- no favorites feature for radio channels
I have read that i can deblock some thing with a rooted firm, xposed frameword and mode MTCxposed. I have to check it out.
Anyway, quality/price surpasses theses concerns to me and i am very happy with this buy.

i would like to buy the Model JY-UQ124 = RK3188 Quad Core, 16 GB Flash, 1024*600 Screen,the Specs looks good!
I have now a AN-21U in my Car installd with the newest Redmod but the Boottime and the Mic Gain sucks!
-how long does the boottime from the Carjoing model take and how is the quality of the Microphone?
-I read something about a Mic Mod, which is in the model also necessary and if so, there is a manual for the Mic Mod?
-can I use the Malaysk Rom for the Radio?
Is it worth it to change the model at all?
thx

TOMMYX2 said:
i would like to buy the Model JY-UQ124 = RK3188 Quad Core, 16 GB Flash, 1024*600 Screen,the Specs looks good!
I have now a AN-21U in my Car installd with the newest Redmod but the Boottime and the Mic Gain sucks!
-how long does the boottime from the Carjoing model take and how is the quality of the Microphone?
-I read something about a Mic Mod, which is in the model also necessary and if so, there is a manual for the Mic Mod?
thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
i have same model and like i wrote in my previous post, it takes 15s to boot.
Ext Mic quality is good (don't test internal mic). I put it in front of mine and can dial without concern. My interlocutors don't complain.

Killing optimizer, and continous alerts on BT headset

I bought a P30 a week ago, and two things drive me nuts. First of all the optimizer, which is obviously not artificially intelligent, since I have said countless times that I don't mind if Snapchat is using power. Without that I'd never hear from my daughter... Is there a way to stopp Optimizer completely, or at least block the alerts?
And talking about alerts, there's the standard alert sound coming every few minutes as long as I have my BT plugs (I'm using Sony WF-1000XM3's) connected. But there's never anything in the alert panel. I wonder if it can be because of another useless piece of [email protected] information, in English I am guessing it's called "Device connection - Active audio device" or something like that. I can click a wheel to the right in that and get a box that lets me choose between audio from the plugs and the device, but why should I? I can turn of the plugs to get the tragically bad sound from the vibrating screen!
So can anybody give me a tip about this? On my previous Samsung I'd just use a root function to fix it, but that's not as easy on this phone since it seems just about unrootable without a lot of extra hassle.

Mastiff said:
I bought a P30 a week ago, and two things drive me nuts. First of all the optimizer, which is obviously not artificially intelligent, since I have said countless times that I don't mind if Snapchat is using power. Without that I'd never hear from my daughter... Is there a way to stopp Optimizer completely, or at least block the alerts?
And talking about alerts, there's the standard alert sound coming every few minutes as long as I have my BT plugs (I'm using Sony WF-1000XM3's) connected. But there's never anything in the alert panel. I wonder if it can be because of another useless piece of [email protected] information, in English I am guessing it's called "Device connection - Active audio device" or something like that. I can click a wheel to the right in that and get a box that lets me choose between audio from the plugs and the device, but why should I? I can turn of the plugs to get the tragically bad sound from the vibrating screen!
So can anybody give me a tip about this? On my previous Samsung I'd just use a root function to fix it, but that's not as easy on this phone since it seems just about unrootable without a lot of extra hassle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can kill the power management completely (Power Genie) so that all apps run as intended, you do lose per app usage stats but that's all
https://dontkillmyapp.com/huawei
Not sure about the 2nd issue

Thanks! PowerGenie out of my phone and back in the lamp !

Mastiff said:
Thanks! PowerGenie out of my phone and back in the lamp !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be gone evil genie

Yeah, all though to me this Genie is more like the one in "The Witcher" and less like Robin Williams...

Mastiff said:
Yeah, all though to me this Genie is more like the one in "The Witcher" and less like Robin Williams...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, and when I disabled it, it made 0 difference to battery life, similar issue to you except with WhatsApp, would not give me any messages until I opened the app regardless of power settings

Good! The battery is so good compared to my old S9 anyway, and the charging time is so short, that I'll never have any problems with it.

Mastiff said:
Good! The battery is so good compared to my old S9 anyway, and the charging time is so short, that I'll never have any problems with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Made the same move from S9 > P30, battery life is extremely good compared although I miss the Samsung experience so am looking at the S20 Ultra now

That one's far too expensive. Not that I can't afford it, just that I can't justify it. The cheaper models have worse cameras then the P30, that's why I bought that for about half the price of a S20 Ultra. I'd rather buy another pair of ceiling speakers for my Atmos system! And I see hat you came from Samsung in your sig. Btw the latest software to the S20 was apparently so buggy they couldn't reivew the S20 in Norway!

Mastiff said:
That one's far too expensive. Not that I can't afford it, just that I can't justify it. The cheaper models have worse cameras then the P30, that's why I bought that for about half the price of a S20 Ultra. I'd rather buy another pair of ceiling speakers for my Atmos system! And I see hat you came from Samsung in your sig. Btw the latest software to the S20 was apparently so buggy they couldn't reivew the S20 in Norway!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh I have sigs disabled, I`ll have to remove it
The only reason I want the Ultra is the new 108MP sensor the others won't have, I have always gone for the standard model as the Pro/Plus models weren't worth the extra to me, bigger screen/battery and one extra lens wasn't enough for the extra cost, but I really enjoy photography which is also the reason I got this P30, few things missing vs the S9, like true 960fps slow mo, and I used to take a lot of shots of my dog running about, with the S9 they almost always came out sharp and clear, the P30 seems unable to take clear shots of moving objects, most pics come out blurred, also the RYYB sensor tinting everything yellow gets a bit tedious
It takes a great photo for scenery etc, low light is amazing so hopefully the Ultra can match / beat that

While EMUI doesn't give you the option to completely disable the persistent Device Connection Service notification when you have a Bluetooth audio device connected, I managed to create a workaround using Macrodroid:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
This macro will be triggered whenever the Device Connection Service notification appears and will immediately dismiss the notification without letting it re-appear after whatever time limits EMUI usually sets. The result is a clean notification centre without this persistent banner getting in the way. If this doesn't work, change the trigger to Connectivity > Bluetooth Event > Device Connected > [your headphones here].