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Lg l7 battery fits our OB just fine :)

EDIT:
Do the following at you're own risk.Even though it works for me and there is no logical reason it wouldn't work for you.
My wife got a new L7 couple of Weeks back and i have been paying with it every now and again.
As the battery on the OB is experiencing bad drain lately i thought to look for replacement. Tried other battery with no luck and than last night thought what the hell i will try the L7's battery.
Hell yeah ! Fits nicely ( but the OB battery had to be filled a bit to fit in the L7 , just in the right corner about 1mm on 1mm).
Now to the nice part. As it is a new battery the self drain is gone.
And it is 1700mAh
Although i will have to return it to my wife as she is gonna be in a shock as her phone is gonna be dead before tonight The big question for me is is the L9 battery the same size and would it fit as well .

I forgot to mention with the original battery the current drain is about 1% every 2 minutes .
But this is due to me using the phone a LOT. At least one and often two charges a day for year and a half so long gone the 300 charges which are supposed to retain 90% of the original charge.

can you take a picture of your p970 backcover battery?

Here goes the pics, sorry about the delay.
P.s. Pics are from the old trusty s8500 aka wave. L7 camera is crap

So L7 battery is 3.8 volt our p970 battery is 3.7 volt.Cant it be any damage on main board?

Wouldn't think so. As both mobiles work fine with swapped batteries

And during charging voltage is way higher anyway. Remember 5 volt charger

That's a nice find! Good job! Might buy a genuine L7 battery...

ogremount said:
My wife got a new L7 couple of Weeks back and i have been paying with it every now and again.
As the battery on the OB is experiencing bad drain lately i thought to look for replacement. Tried other battery with no luck and than last night thought what the hell i will try the L7's battery.
Hell yeah ! Fits nicely ( but the OB battery had to be filled a bit to fit in the L7 , just in the right corner about 1mm on 1mm).
Now to the nice part. As it is a new battery the self drain is gone.
And it is 1700mAh
Although i will have to return it to my wife as she is gonna be in a shock as her phone is gonna be dead before tonight The big question for me is is the L9 battery the same size and would it fit as well .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice info, thank you!

I am glad to share
But as for the L9 looks like different shape and contacts positions

Thanks gor info:thumbup:
sorry for my bad English

So is it safe despite the voltage difference?

So far so good. One day use and it is great. 4 hours + screen time compared to 2.5 (again worth repeating my original battery is degraded)
I even find data connection working better, but that might as well be fruit of my imagination.
Best part is my wife hasn't caught up yet .

George Jetson said:
So L7 battery is 3.8 volt our p970 battery is 3.7 volt.Cant it be any damage on main board?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. Don't use it. Just because something fits doesn't means it is supposed to work. For instance I am pretty sure if I try I can fit my phone in my mouth. Is that good? NO!
You won't notice it short term but long term it will bite you and Lg can refuse warranty if it's damaged due to incorrect use.

xonar_ said:
Yes. Don't use it. Just because something fits doesn't means it is supposed to work. For instance I am pretty sure if I try I can fit my phone in my mouth. Is that good? NO!
You won't notice it short term but long term it will bite you and Lg can refuse warranty if it's damaged due to incorrect use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
super correct , if this was the deal lg simply would have included it at least in the models of today , but the main board will suffer on long terms of use :good:

Actually my neighbour is using razor xxx batery in his phone and that's half volt higher than his original battery.
The problem for the main board is not the voltage itself but the incoherent amperage and power consistence, and this battery is lg made so complies to their standard.
Again remember that the phone runs ok on charger which happens to be 4.8 volts without battery inserted.

*First post edited*

ogremount said:
Actually my neighbour is using razor xxx batery in his phone and that's half volt higher than his original battery.
The problem for the main board is not the voltage itself but the incoherent amperage and power consistence, and this battery is lg made so complies to their standard.
Again remember that the phone runs ok on charger without battery inserted.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course it's not the voltage itself, but the increased voltage causes increase current and that increases heat output and that does damage your phone.
Try this yourself.
Create a two circuits with a two identical light bulbs. Use a battery one battery that is 1.5 Volts and use another thats 3 Volts. Which do you think will burn out quicker?
And the fact that it's 1700mAh doesn't necessarily mean it gives longer battery life it might just mean that it has a higher current output.
You can use that battery if you want. I wouldn't.

xonar_ said:
Of course it's not the voltage itself, but the increased voltage causes increase current and that increases heat output and that does damage your phone.
Try this yourself.
Create a two circuits with a two identical light bulbs. Use a battery one battery that is 1.5 Volts and use another thats 3 Volts. Which do you think will burn out quicker?
And the fact that it's 1700mAh doesn't necessarily mean it gives longer battery life it might just mean that it has a higher current output.
You can use that battery if you want. I wouldn't.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's 0.1v of diference, I don't think that could break the phone or something.

lean7 said:
It's 0.1v of diference, I don't think that could break the phone or something.
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Click to collapse
The heat output of the CPU is directly proportional to Voltage squared and since the change in temperature is equal to the Heat Ouput minus Heat Disipation the result will be a lot hotter than you think. The hotter it runs the higher the resistance in the circuits the more power you have to us to keep it running stable. Can you see why even a small difference in voltage makes a big difference.

[Q] 38 to 42 degree temp is normal for z1 ?

Hello friends...I just bought my Xperia z1 yesterday. I have updated it to 2.257 , with normal usage of 10-15 mins continuously the temp rises to around 33-35 and when i use Camera for around 5-10 mins even, temp rise to around 40 degree and with a game like subway surfers the temp rises to 42-43 degree ... 43 was the highest i saw so far...
Is this ok with this phone ? Or should i go to service center ?
I am using the premium cover i got with the phone, with that on I don't really feel the hotness in my hands but just want to be sure that this is normal heat up with this phone and my phone is not bad..
Also, when the phone is at 43 degree, should i stop using it and allow it to cool ? or should i keep playing the games , use the camera and all...
Any application that can help reduce the heating ? and any better camera app u can suggest ?
Also, please don't suggest to root..I do not want to void the warranty but after 1 year I will definitely root the phone and use custom roms then...

81 views and no reply yet ?

what's the ambient temperature, its its under say 18 then yes i would be worried about that temp, if you ambient is say 25 then maybe not as much of an issue, check the back is the back cover (secured by tape) separating?
If its hot to the touch I would RMA that device
---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:19 PM ----------
what's the ambient temperature, its its under say 18 then yes i would be worried about that temp, if you ambient is say 25 then maybe not as much of an issue, check the back is the back cover (secured by tape) separating?
If its hot to the touch I would RMA that device

lashton said:
what's the ambient temperature, its its under say 18 then yes i would be worried about that temp, if you ambient is say 25 then maybe not as much of an issue, check the back is the back cover (secured by tape) separating?
If its hot to the touch I would RMA that device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ambient temp is around 25 only...the back cover just realized is separating from the top end camera side only.
I heard from some friend that If i go to the customer service regarding this heat , they will only say that it is normal as there is no warning message being popped in the phone about overheating.
And at sonymobile.com every one is saying that this is a normal heat up in z1 and on high gaming this temp will even rise to 50+ and there is still no issue except that the battery will drain faster on such temperature. I don't really understand why such heat up is being considered as normal in this phone...I mean it is heating , i can feel it..there can be some h/w issue arise in future coz of this

The explication for the high temperatures, i think, is because the phone is sealed (water proof and all) and the heat can't be very well dispersed in this case. That's why, on Z, many users complained that their phones overheated so much that the adhesive would loosen up (from the back cover) compromising the sealing proof of the device.

Dirrtydog said:
The explication for the high temperatures, i think, is because the phone is sealed (water proof and all) and the heat can't be very well dispersed in this case. That's why, on Z, many users complained that their phones overheated so much that the adhesive would loosen up (from the back cover) compromising the sealing proof of the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is not always true. Most phones usually do not use any kind of air cooling. There are no fans or even any channels for air to move through in any phone im familiar with. Some phones (GS4 i think?) now have a water loop to transfer heat to the case more effectively, but they pretty much all just use the case to cool down.
When i first got my Z1 i had charged it to full then began using it right away while it was still warm from charging. After about an hour of running every benchmark i could find i started to use the camera on its max setting for maybe 20min before it said something like "temperature is too high, closing camera" (i didnt check the temp but i was a bit warm lol..). I was plugged in for all this usage so i was putting out near maximum heat.
I wouldn't actually be worried about the phone temp, i think this is just the reality of having this beast of a quad core with the standard (very little) heat dissipation. That said i know the CPU/GPU can handle 60-70C no problem, but i would prefer to keep the battery temp below 50C if possible.. Edit: actually the battery health indicator was reading "overheat" and i was at 39C° according to battery temp. I was playing an online game for about 35min.
It would be cool to have a battery discharge widget to show you how much more power is used when all cores and GPU are running, i think some people would be surprised.
The phone should stay cooler if its not plugged in during usage, i think. Also, i'I've never gotten the phone that hot since and im not trying to keep it cool at all.

crusnikmachine said:
It would be cool to have a battery discharge widget to show you how much more power is used when all cores and GPU are running, i think some people would be surprised.
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Click to collapse
I use Current Widget it works fine and has a log to file function:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.manor.currentwidget
The phone easily draws over 2 Amps during 3DMark, I guess maximum peak current will be around 3 Amps for some scenarios.That is a lot! Current Widget detected a battery voltage if 4,11V which means a power output of around 8 to 10W peak.
This is on the border of what can be passively cooled in this form factor. Actually it's a marvel of engineering to squeeze so much computing power into a smartphone. And you are right, there is no active air cooling in phones, I have never heard of water Cooling in a handset either, do you have a source? Sounds interesting but I can't believe it
I totally agree on the rest if your post though! Don't worry about heat, the device was meant to get hot, this big 3000mAh battery is there for a reason too. I don't know why so many people get crazy over this, Sony does usually know what they are doing and if they think a high temperature limit is fine, it is.
By the way: In the Nexus 5/ Z1 comparison thread the reviewer stated that the N5 got hotter than his Z1. All modern Smartphones do get hot, it is the tradeoff needed for high performance.
Edit: This topic has also been discussed here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2467743
Edit 2: You were right! NEC does use a ultrathin 0,6mm waterfilled heatpipe!
www.phonearena.com/news/Report-Top-...eat-pipe-inside-new-smartphone-models_id44174
I stand corrected! ^^

OfficerTux said:
I use Current Widget it works fine and has a log to file function:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.manor.currentwidget
The phone easily draws over 2 Amps during 3DMark, I guess maximum peak current will be around 3 Amps for some scenarios.That is a lot! Current Widget detected a battery voltage if 4,11V which means a power output of around 8 to 10W peak.
This is on the border of what can be passively cooled in this form factor. Actually it's a marvel of engineering to squeeze so much computing power into a smartphone. And you are right, there is no active air cooling in phones, I have never heard of water Cooling in a handset either, do you have a source? Sounds interesting but I can't believe it
Edit 2: You were right! NEC does use a ultrathin 0,6mm waterfilled heatpipe!
www.phonearena.com/news/Report-Top-...eat-pipe-inside-new-smartphone-models_id44174
I stand corrected! ^^
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow 3 amps i wasn't expecting, but that discharge rate would be required to kill it in an hour. Still nuts, they have defiantly pushed the limits of passive cooling here which disappointed me a bit because this will effect the maximum overclock. I don't know what i need the OC for yet, but thankfully i can just drop this phone in some ice water and it should do over 3Ghz no? My mytough4G went from 1Ghz to 2Ghz so we can expect a 100% overclock here too right? (I don't think the battery could even draw power fast enough..)
And water cooled phones amirite? I was really excited at the water cooled phones, but its not a big deal yet. That NEC probably barely runs cooler, and our Z1 would destroy that cooling setup anyways.. Its almost like they need to increase the size of the new devices to dissipate more heat. Although I'm still a fan of microscopic black hole cooling. Yep, a small singularity should do just fine.
So for now, its ice water and a PS3/BT controller lol.

crusnikmachine said:
And water cooled phones amirite? I was really excited at the water cooled phones, but its not a big deal yet. That NEC probably barely runs cooler, and our Z1 would destroy that cooling setup anyways.. Its almost like they need to increase the size of the new devices to dissipate more heat. Although I'm still a fan of microscopic black hole cooling.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really liked the black hole part
Yes just filling the heatpipes with water is no real water cooling, but it's nice to see some innovation. I'd rather like to see vapour chamber heatpipes like on modern graphics cards though, but without any heat sink that would useless too.
You are also right with your more size for better cooling theory, it's no wonder that Snapdragon 800 SoCs are just used in 5" and above devices. That's why I am so impressed with the Xperia Z1f (aka Z1 mini). If I am correctly informed it uses the same SoC as the big Z1 in a 4,3" chassis. That's an amazing feat and the first time a mini variant will be as fast as the big one (unlike S4 mini and One mini). But it will get throttled a lot more than our big Z1s I guess.
Edit: When going for some serious overclocks I would advise you to turn down display brightness completely, that should give you some 0,3 to 0,5 Amps of extra current

OfficerTux said:
I really liked the black hole part
Yes just filling the heatpipes with water is no real water cooling, but it's nice to see some innovation. I'd rather like to see vapour chamber heatpipes like on modern graphics cards though, but without any heat sink that would useless too.
You are also right with your more size for better cooling theory, it's no wonder that Snapdragon 800 SoCs are just used in 5" and above devices. That's why I am so impressed with the Xperia Z1f (aka Z1 mini). If I am correctly informed it uses the same SoC as the big Z1 in a 4,3" chassis. That's an amazing feat and the first time a mini variant will be as fast as the big one (unlike S4 mini and One mini). But it will get throttled a lot more than our big Z1s I guess.
Edit: When going for some serious overclocks I would advise you to turn down display brightness completely, that should give you some 0,3 to 0,5 Amps of extra current
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
crusnikmachine said:
This is not always true. Most phones usually do not use any kind of air cooling. There are no fans or even any channels for air to move through in any phone im familiar with. Some phones (GS4 i think?) now have a water loop to transfer heat to the case more effectively, but they pretty much all just use the case to cool down.
When i first got my Z1 i had charged it to full then began using it right away while it was still warm from charging. After about an hour of running every benchmark i could find i started to use the camera on its max setting for maybe 20min before it said something like "temperature is too high, closing camera" (i didnt check the temp but i was a bit warm lol..). I was plugged in for all this usage so i was putting out near maximum heat.
I wouldn't actually be worried about the phone temp, i think this is just the reality of having this beast of a quad core with the standard (very little) heat dissipation. That said i know the CPU/GPU can handle 60-70C no problem, but i would prefer to keep the battery temp below 50C if possible.. Edit: actually the battery health indicator was reading "overheat" and i was at 39C° according to battery temp. I was playing an online game for about 35min.
It would be cool to have a battery discharge widget to show you how much more power is used when all cores and GPU are running, i think some people would be surprised.
The phone should stay cooler if its not plugged in during usage, i think. Also, i'I've never gotten the phone that hot since and im not trying to keep it cool at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand your POV but as long as it is affecting my phone, it's integrity and one of the main features for which i bought it with a premium price and a safety measure has to kick in in order to stay everything "ok" like "temperature is too high, closing camera", I'm not so sure about giving it a pass so easily.

Dirrtydog said:
I understand your POV but as long as it is affecting my phone, it's integrity and one of the main features for which i bought it with a premium price and a safety measure has to kick in in order to stay everything "ok" like "temperature is too high, closing camera", I'm not so sure about giving it a pass so easily.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
However if you leave your device in the sun (car dash or w.e) it can get much hotter then it would from normal operation and when you try to wake the device it will usually immediately power down saying "high temp" or something. This is often the only way you would see this message imo. Pretty much all androids do this, so it really isn't specific to the Z1. An apple device would do the same thing etc.

Absolutely, no arguing.
But I don't agree when this happens while I'm playing a game, while (maybe) other apps are running in the background (multitasking), while wifi or 3g on, with more than 50% brightness level (not to mention maybe plugged to a power supply also to keep the battery from draining). In this particular case, on my old HTC One X, the overheating issue caused 2 burns on my phone's display (but that's another story) and i have them ever since.

So have you actually experienced any shut downs or warnings because of heat? Or do you just want to make sure that there's no problem?
I have been playing a lot if games and used the camera, so far everything seems stable, I have had no problems yet.

Mine reached 60 yesterday while playing dead trigger 2 but the CPU still scaled up to 2.15 so I guess the phone can take up to 65/70 degrees but my hands can't...
Sent from my C6903 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

Dirrtydog said:
Absolutely, no arguing.
But I don't agree when this happens while I'm playing a game, while (maybe) other apps are running in the background (multitasking), while wifi or 3g on, with more than 50% brightness level (not to mention maybe plugged to a power supply also to keep the battery from draining). In this particular case, on my old HTC One X, the overheating issue caused 2 burns on my phone's display (but that's another story) and i have them ever since.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
m666p said:
Mine reached 60 yesterday while playing dead trigger 2 but the CPU still scaled up to 2.15 so I guess the phone can take up to 65/70 degrees but my hands can't...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea im with you.. At least you can dip this phone in water to cool it down xD

m666p said:
Mine reached 60 yesterday while playing dead trigger 2 but the CPU still scaled up to 2.15 so I guess the phone can take up to 65/70 degrees but my hands can't...
Sent from my C6903 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
60 degrees celsius? Wow mine was doing 45 degrees while playing dead trigger 2 and I thaught I had a faulty handset

New battery, original or fake?

Hi,
Yesterday i buy new battery for my old lg g2, but i'm not sure is it original.
My New battery is non stepped like this http://tanstartrade.ca/images/LG%20BL-T7.jpg
Do you think that it could be authentic?
Thanks in advance for your help.

I just got replaced battery in service - they told me that they use original LG parts. When I checked it under the cover, it shows manufactured date 6th of January 2016. It is not allowed by antena strips and curved back cover to have thicker battery and thinner would have less capacity. You could probably try but I don't see any benefits in that.
EDIT: After few days of usage I had to get my battery replaced by the old one. May be bad luck with not properly working battery but more probably faik one (runs for 0-10 mins, weird force charging in no OS mode). When they showed me the "new" battery in service it is thinner than the original, does not have the stepped back and thus makes gap between back cover and battery itself - 2mm of medium hard press. So it was like yours - flat design - no additional stepped part. The service was not authorised service but looked legit and had plenty of good reviews. So it's my experience of flat lg battery replacement stated as original.

Be noticed that all of below information are not yet confirmed.
I discovered the difference between original and fake since searching trough forums and own experience. :victory:
Design od LG BL-T7 battery has not changed ever since. Still the only one with the stepped back side. Should look like the battery on right side of these pictures, otherwise it is nor factory replacement (aka fake):
http://i.imgur.com/2Yt8cvDh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hkVpceYh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/XtEH5AQh.jpg
The main difference is in litle bulk under printing "BL-T7", arrows under the NOM icon and next right is noticeable differnce in T in that symbol, fonts differ and last letter of chineese behind the manufactured day,...
There is a believe that non-original batteries are not that bad at all, only they have poor wiring and connection port which often makes them behave unexpectedly.
How to calibrate battery after replacement or when needed here.

I replaced my battery recently, they told me that it's not the original one, its a Chinese made but works well. So far, no issue.

Where did you get that one?
iubjaved said:
I replaced my battery recently, they told me that it's not the original one, its a Chinese made but works well. So far, no issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

tiguy99 said:
Where did you get that one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From Ebay. Bought it from a trusted seller.
Sorry for the late reply, i wasn't around for long.

Thanks. When possible, please pm me the sellers info.
Gonna buy one asap
iubjaved said:
From Ebay. Bought it from a trusted seller.
Sorry for the late reply, i wasn't around for long.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

tiguy99 said:
Thanks. When possible, please pm me the sellers info.
Gonna buy one asap
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-LG-...781964?hash=item51cfceb70c:g:oOEAAOSwv0tVNo12
Note that if you face any issue regarding charging since these batteries are years old, then feel free to contact the seller and you will get a replacement.

I bought that same battery. It had no glue residue and the year was rubbed off.
It looks genuine but I won't be able to tell until my replacement screen arrives and I can install them both at the same time.

I bought a 3950mah high capacity battery from aliexpress (so clearly not geniune but for the money I decided to give it a shot). it works fine, got my Screen on time from 2-3h to 5h or more. However, when charging, it will charge up to 95-99% and then, while still plugged in, go down to 83% and stay there. Then when I unplug it and start using it, it first goes back up to 90-95% before going back down like normal. Has anyone experienced something like this and/or know a way to fix it? I tried some battery calibration methods but no luck. Also, since the phone rarely reaches 100% (indicated) it doesnt always reset the screen on timer properly... this makes it difficult to keep accurate track of its performance. when it does work 5h seems to be the usual value.

That one sounds weird.
Definitely not normal.
Only solution is to buy another and test it or return the one you haveDefinitely and try another one
kili3981 said:
I bought a 3950mah high capacity battery from aliexpress (so clearly not geniune but for the money I decided to give it a shot). it works fine, got my Screen on time from 2-3h to 5h or more. However, when charging, it will charge up to 95-99% and then, while still plugged in, go down to 83% and stay there. Then when I unplug it and start using it, it first goes back up to 90-95% before going back down like normal. Has anyone experienced something like this and/or know a way to fix it? I tried some battery calibration methods but no luck. Also, since the phone rarely reaches 100% (indicated) it doesnt always reset the screen on timer properly... this makes it difficult to keep accurate track of its performance. when it does work 5h seems to be the usual value.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

tiguy99 said:
That one sounds weird.
Definitely not normal.
Only solution is to buy another and test it or return the one you haveDefinitely and try another one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have contacted the seller but so far they are not replying... I tried the Ampere and 3C Battery monitor the check the voltages and currents while charging. At first, I thought the phone showed the wrong percentage as it was not calibrated for the high capacity (so 80% was actually 120% relative to the standard battery capacity) but it showed that the phone was actually discharging once it reached full charge. Also, my assumption of it being 120% was wrong since the percentage probably comes from the cell voltage. So, next I checked the cell voltage using both ampere and 3C but the values were all over the place, jumping from 4.36 to 4.2 and back. this made no sense. The battery has a top voltage of 4.37 when fully charged so maybe the battery monitoring software of the phone is confused by this?
In any case I will wait for the seller to get back to me and if the problem becomes worse I will get a new battery to test out.

Thanks for the update.
Keep us posted on how it goes.
kili3981 said:
I have contacted the seller but so far they are not replying... I tried the Ampere and 3C Battery monitor the check the voltages and currents while charging. At first, I thought the phone showed the wrong percentage as it was not calibrated for the high capacity (so 80% was actually 120% relative to the standard battery capacity) but it showed that the phone was actually discharging once it reached full charge. Also, my assumption of it being 120% was wrong since the percentage probably comes from the cell voltage. So, next I checked the cell voltage using both ampere and 3C but the values were all over the place, jumping from 4.36 to 4.2 and back. this made no sense. The battery has a top voltage of 4.37 when fully charged so maybe the battery monitoring software of the phone is confused by this?
In any case I will wait for the seller to get back to me and if the problem becomes worse I will get a new battery to test out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Hello guys, I am looking to buy new battery for my 2 and half years old g2. So here are my options:
1) Pollarcell - they says it's great battery, but still kinda expensive for a non-oem battery. It would cost me about 25e.
2) OEM LG battery - in LG official service, I have to check it they still got them, price was about 30e if I recall correctly.
3) Some random battery - I guess this is lottery.I can get good or I can get bad battery. There are many brands, and their price is from 8-9 to 15e.
OEM is best choice for sure, but I don't feel like investing 1/3 of phone price in battery, especially cause I don't know how long I will keep that phone. Dunno what to do
Edit: Did anyone tried this battery? It has quite high rating
https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32572840069.html#autostay

Beware of Pollarcell batteries I have read cases of burning

Bought my new battery at PhonTrading24 ,
Battery is class and from new production 12/2016 .

fake or original?
I also changed my battery after 3 years at LG service however I have some questions in my mind whether battery is fake or original one. Although new battery has same capacity like old one but it doesn not last like new one ( it lasts almost a day ) Pictures are attached new and old one. What do you think guys?

benveq said:
I also changed my battery after 3 years at LG service however I have some questions in my mind whether battery is fake or original one. Although new battery has same capacity like old one but it doesn not last like new one ( it lasts almost a day ) Pictures are attached new and old one. What do you think guys?
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Click to collapse
It looks like the original one and it might well be. But that also means it is not new, as the production of original batteries have stopped several years back. So what you have is probably an unused but ageing battery.
Batteries start degrading the moment they are produced, just that it degrades at a slower rate being unused (depending on temperature it's stored etc), compared to it being actively used everyday.

keyzjh said:
It looks like the original one and it might well be. But that also means it is not new, as the production of original batteries have stopped several years back. So what you have is probably an unused but ageing battery.
Batteries start degrading the moment they are produced, just that it degrades at a slower rate being unused (depending on temperature it's stored etc), compared to it being actively used everyday.
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Click to collapse
thanks a lot for the comment. I have been using this battery for a month now and the battery ends after completing one day. As and old production not bad as you said.

Dimensions of original battery BL-T7, taken off from LG G2 : 55.4mm x 66.4 mm x 5.6 mm (thickness in the middle), Weight: 45 G.

Galaxy Note 4 N91OF battery problem

Hello fellow members, I hope that everyone is doing well and that we're all safe. I'd like to write about a problem I had between flashing stock & custom roms (thank you to all the developers for their hard work & patience). Flashing custom & stock roms I noticed that the battery would not display correctly it's percentage (about 15% less) on standby or when charging. This would affect signal coverage, and I would have to frequently close my phone and put my battery back in for a quick fix. Another important problem was that the phone would start shutting down before discharging correctly, till the point that my phone powered down my at around 57%. After trying all the solutions suggested here by other members (wake lock, wiping battery stats,etc), I was starting to consider that maybe it was time to upgrade. Try as i might, & taking into consideration what I actually do with my phone (ebook reader, music and video player, tv remote, game emulator console, the list goes on), there isn't any phone on the market that I consider could adequately replace my Note 4. So as a last resort I discharged my battery completely while in Twrp recovery and swapped it out with another Note 4 I have to charge. To my surprise the battery started discharging in a nearly perfect manner and seems to be holding up pretty well now after a few charges (considering it's a second hand phone and that the battery is not original). So I hope that this can help anyone out there having battery issues and is willing to give this a try. Cheers

The power management is sort of witchy even on the newer Samsung's.
Fine when it's working right and downright inscrutable when it's not.

Hi Blackhawk, thank you for the read & like. I really have to thank the Xda forum & fellow members if I tried this solution in the first place. I absolutely loathed the idea of having to change my Note 4 due to random battery shutdowns. New phones out on the market have (in my opinion) really bad flaws such as screen bleed, faulty screens & digitizers, ecc, & my Note 4 has been durable with a 6 euro case & 5 euro screen protector. The hardware might be a bit limiting for today's standards ( technology devolops in leaps & bounds & sells even faster), but the everyday user wouldn't even notice or care if it wasn't for clever marketing & the notion that after a few years we have to buy something "new". Anyway, all the solutions I read on the forum really helped me out to reflect on how to solve my problem in the first place, so I hope what I found out can help someone else out. Good day to everyone

My 10+ was ok until I did a full charge on a slower charger overnight. I normally never do that and usually do only midrange partial charges.
It auto shutdown then when it got down to 15% when I was trying for a battery recalibration.
Normally I never go below 30%
Then fast charging started screwing up too.
Tried almost -everything- to no avail.
Perhaps a charger or cable failure was coincidental; don't know still waiting for the new brick/cable.
If it still continues after the new charger I'm looking at either a battery failure, port failure or a hardware power management failure most likely.
I hope it's the charger/cable*, lol
No doubt the battery issues are quit the pain.
*the milliamp draw drops a lot when it falls out of fast charging mode so the battery probably isn't the culprit. The temperature sensors seem to be fully functional. Will try yet another recal after the new charger arrives. Grrrr... what a time whore it is.

Update: it was a battery failure at less then 1.5 years. Because it's always in a case I didn't notice the rear cover was bulging, a lot.
I was very fortunate it didn't damage the display.
All those symptoms I described are a battery failure in progress.
A Li is considered degraded when it reaches 80% of its original capacity, the end of its useful service life. Degraded Li's are more likely to fail.
Any swelling is a failure
Today that same N10+ is in my hand still running like new although it's once again nearing battery replacement time.
Expect a 1-2 year battery lifespan on a heavily used device. Battery replacement is just part of normal maintenance.

Replaced my Tab S battery/USB port but still not starting/charging

Hey everyone,
I recently replaced the battery and USB port in my Tab S 10.5 because it wasn't charging properly and the battery eventually died on me. The battery was sitting around for about 1.5 years before I got around to installing it and I believe it was second hand. After replacing the battery/USB port I realised it still wasn't charging so I tested the battery voltage and realised it's 2.81v when it should be 4.2v on both cells when charged (it's a 3.8v battery).
Does anyone know what is the likely problem? I don't know if 2.8 volts is too low or if that's just normal discharge voltage. I need to know if it's worth me buying a new battery or not because obviously I don't want to spend the money on another battery if the problem is something else. Is there any way of troubleshooting whether the battery is the problem or not? What other problems could cause a device to just not start entirely? I know the charging port could be another issue but that's why I replaced it, the replacement was second hand though (despite being advertised as new). Nothing bad has happened to the tablet, I've never dropped it or got it wet for example.
Sorry if this is the wrong place to discuss hardware like batteries but I couldn't find any other place to discuss something like this.
Thanks for any help,

quantumboner said:
Hey everyone,
I recently replaced the battery and USB port in my Tab S 10.5 because it wasn't charging properly and the battery eventually died on me. The battery was sitting around for about 1.5 years before I got around to installing it and I believe it was second hand. After replacing the battery/USB port I realised it still wasn't charging so I tested the battery voltage and realised it's 2.81v when it should be 4.2v on both cells when charged (it's a 3.8v battery).
Does anyone know what is the likely problem? I don't know if 2.8 volts is too low or if that's just normal discharge voltage. I need to know if it's worth me buying a new battery or not because obviously I don't want to spend the money on another battery if the problem is something else. Is there any way of troubleshooting whether the battery is the problem or not? What other problems could cause a device to just not start entirely? I know the charging port could be another issue but that's why I replaced it, the replacement was second hand though (despite being advertised as new). Nothing bad has happened to the tablet, I've never dropped it or got it wet for example.
Sorry if this is the wrong place to discuss hardware like batteries but I couldn't find any other place to discuss something like this.
Thanks for any help,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
Please check the soldering join of the battery socket on the PCB. You may need to use a magnifier or similar tools to get a good look. The solder joins seem to be pretty weak and could be damaged when you replaced the battery. Socket pins on the plastic plug came with those Chinese replacement battery has high insertion force. They make good contact with the pin on the plastic PCB receptacle but could exert excessive force on the PCB join during engaging or removal. It is feasible to repair it if you have suitable soldering tip (chisel type is better) and good eyes. Space is limited due to the RF shielding cage right besides the join. Try going in from the top near vertical way. If available, try working with a microscope.
I went through more or less the same thing you had. First replacing the battery, and port, But performance was strange. Sometimes it charges well to 100% But once in a while it stops in the middle. When the capacity went below 60%, tablet could reset under heavy use. Sometimes it drops from 40% to 15% in less than 15 minutes. It got worse and worse. After installing 3C Battery Manager, I found out there was sudden and severe voltage drop and temperature spike when resetting happens. At the beginning I suspected battery issues as we all know getting those replacement battery is like a gamble. I got another battery from a different vendor and similar thing happened. After fixing the soldering joins, it works really well now and I can enjoy a few days on light use without charging.
Also, some of those replacement batteries are picky on charger. Most likely due to the "innovative" cost-cutting protection circuit design. Some fast charger use a very low charging current and takes very long time to get to 100%.
Good luck !

If it's a multilayered PCB be very careful soldering it. You need to know how to solder well. Excessive/prolonged heating and poor desoldering technique can destroy them.
Replace the battery and go from there. It may have auto shutdown from low cell voltage, if so it's not worth mucking with.
If that doesn't get it's probably a mobo failure of some type.

Hey guys thanks for your replies. Sorry that I forgot about this after I didn't get any replies or I would of updated it. I did manage to get it sorted, the problem was the charger I was using, it wasn't providing enough current so the battery refused to charge at all. It would only charge when plugged into the mains on a decent adapter.