It's been a long time since I've been around these parts, I recently repaired my old Nexus 4 for a friend and he's managed to completely kill the new battery a grand total of 4 different times over the course of a month! The first three times I was able to get it to show that it was charging after a little while, but this most recent time things didn't go that smoothly; instead I was handed a device that will not take any charge from the microusb port at all and without the availability of an external battery charger that left me with only one option.
I'd like to start off by saying that I'm writing this because I haven't found any write-ups detailing this method for the LG BL-T5, I'll start off with the disclaimer because there's always a few that want to play the blame game.
DISCAIMER: I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE, PHYSICAL OR OTHERWISE, TO ANY PERSON OR DEVICE USED IN THIS PROCEEDURE INCLUDING THE BATTERY, AND YOURSELF! THIS IS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED BY THOSE WHO DON'T HAVE AN UNDERSTANDING OF THE PRINCIPLES OF ELECTRICITY. YOU ARE CHOOSING TO ATTEMPT THIS OF YOUR OWN FREE WILL, AND YOU ALONE ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS OR INJURIES FROM PERFORMING THIS PROCEEDURE.
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Ignore the tape, I've already completed this project and placed the tape to keep it from geting wonky in my drawer!
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
THIN-BLADED POCKET KNIFE
TWEEZER WITH FLAT ENDS
SIM REMOVAL TOOL, PAPERCLIP, OR T-PIN
T5 SCREWDRIVER
PRYING TOOLS
00 PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWDRIVER
SPARE USB CABLE THAT YOU DO NOT MIND DESTROYING
PROPERLY SPEC'D CHARGING BRICK
We're going to start with the basics:
1. Remove the SIM Card Tray from the device.
2. Remove the two T5 screws from the bottom of the device.
3. Use the Prying Tools to remove the back cover.
4. Remove the 00 phillips screws that hold the battery connector in place.
5. Very carefully remove the battery, do not damage the wrap or bend the battery!
6. Move all that stuff to the side except for the battery!
Now onto the things you probably haven't done before:
1. Grab the spare USB cable and cut it in half, you're going to be using the end with the USB Type A male connector.
2. Strip the bare end of the cable, leave yourself enough room to strip the smaller wires within as well.
3. You should see four color coded wires: red, black, green, and white; you only need the red (+) and black (-) wires as these supply voltage.
4. Clip the green and white wires off if you'd like, they're just data (+/-) wires.
5. Strip the ends of the red and black wires, then twist each one tight to keep them nice and neat.
6. Bend about half of each exposed wire over and clamp together all the way around with your tweezers until they're nice, neat, and compact.
Okay, now onto the part where things could go wrong:
1. Do you notice the writing on the underside of the battery connector? V- T H V+ [voltage-, data +, data -, voltage+]
2. This is just like jumping a vehicle battery, the black wire is negative and the red wire is positive. Black goes to V- and Red goes to V+.
3. DON'T MIX THESE FOUR PORTS UP, FOR REAL, DO NOT MIX THESE PORTS UP!
4. Slide the black wire into v- and the red wire into v+, then use something thin to ensure there's good connection to the contacts.
5. MAKE SURE THAT THE EXPOSED WIRES DO NOT COME INTO CONTACT WITH ANY OTHER METALS BESIDES THE CONTACTS!
6. When you're sure that you have everything wired right and that there's good contact, plug the usb cable into a wall adapter.
7. Let the battery charge for roughly 10-15 minutes, do not attempt a full charge with this method; this is to give it just enough juice to boot.
Okay, this is the part where you help prevent forest fires:
1. Frequently check the wall adapter for heat above it's normal operating temperature, no hotter than it usually gets!
2. Check the battery for heat frequently, and DO NOT LEAVE THE BATTERY UNATTENDED!
3. Be ready to unplug the wall adapter if it or the battery starts to get too hot, electrical burning smells are an early warning as well.
Once the battery has charged for 10-15 minutes it can be reinstalled, and the Nexus 4 reassembled; the device should start as normal with a long hold of the power button. The battery should have about a 10% charge and you should ideally plug the normal charging cable in immediately after booting the device. Hopefully this helps at least one of you out!
Great guide, nice and neat with descriptive pictures.
Question: what is the cause of dead batteries? Leaving them to sit at 0% until they are truly dead?
Roastmeat said:
Great guide, nice and neat with descriptive pictures.
Question: what is the cause of dead batteries? Leaving them to sit at 0% until they are truly dead?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
all the battery's have circuits inside for heat undervolt and overvolt protection. if a battery current drop below a certain point the battery circuit shut down the battery altogether. with this method you try to overcharge the battery without blowing the circuits so the battery accumulate enough charge to boot. this method will probably lower the lifespan of the battery but it was a dead battery anyway so...
also there is a probability of blowing the battery that is why you must not leave the battery unattended.
My Nexus 4's battery drained completely in TWRP recovery and now its not charging or turning on at all. I've tried everything I could. Should I use this technique?
S.H.A.D.E said:
My Nexus 4's battery drained completely in TWRP recovery and now its not charging or turning on at all. I've tried everything I could. Should I use this technique?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That decision is yours to make, I'll say that it worked for me. I've made the risks clear, I may have overstated them a little bit but only because I don't want to be held liable for any injury. If your battery is hammered past the point of charging through conventional means this will bring it back just make sure to follow the instructions closely.
Edit: If you haven't tried leaving it plugged into the charger for a while, I'd start with that before resorting to this method.
you are my absolute hero - thanks a million! My Nexus died (it shortcircuited and the battery was impossible to charge). An essential password (to basically my data, finances, photos and so on) was on my Nexus and I forgot it!!
I tried everything and your post was my last change. So you next to saved my life! You are the first person I have never met, seen and know, who I absolutely love! big hug!, chileab
Hi, nice Post!
After applying your method for over 15 minutes, the voltage between (-) and (+) is just 2.6 volts, and after connecting the battery to the phone (and trying to boot) the voltage goes to 0V again.
Any idea what to do?
When I take another 3.7 volt battery (samsung Galaxy S2), the phone boots, but it recognizes that the TH-pin is not connected, so it stops the booting process -.- (TH = Temperature?)
Another questio: why are there two connectors for (-)? it looks like, that they are fused together (if you look to the cable between connector and battery).
Hmm my nexus 4 didnt hold a charge either, but I found information which says just holding volume up and down and plugging the USB cable in will allow it to charge again, which fixed my problem O_O
I used a variable power supply and applied 3.8V (without battery) at pin 1 (+) and pin 4 (-) - without powering the phone, I already had a current draw of 0.35A = 350 mA ... maybe something is wrong, what do you think?
while booting: 0.65A, but again, the phone stops booting after the google logo shows up.
Thanks mate!
Thank you. I was try to find the pin out for the connector for the battery terminal on my n4 because the connection broke off. After my manhandling.
It worked for me too. Thanks a lot for this post
Related
Hello i'll try to explain how i fixed the red notification light when my friend's phone died.
The situation was that he charged the phone from the car built in USB and after he unplugged the charger the phone never powered on.
I tried all the solutions that google search can provide and nothing helped.
The problem was that when you plug the charger the red light stays on without any blinks and nothing helped.
Tools you need:
*Torque screw T5 screwdriver
*Small Philips screwdriver (thanks scream4cheese for remind)
*Plastic handle or something else (to open the back cover without damage it)
*Thin wires
*old/new phone charger
So lets start - hope it will help some one that stuck in this situation
1. First of all you need to remove the back cover to get access to the battery.
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2. Unscrew the 2 screws that holds the battery flex cable.
3. Disconnect the flex cable from the phone.
4. Now you need two thin wires that you can connect to the battery flex cable.
5. Find some old phone charger ( i used old nokia charger ) that can provide about 5.0v-5.8v.
6. If you have volt meter find where is the positive and negative (+) and (-).
7. Connect the battery positive (+) to charger positive (+) and negative to negative.
8. Plug the charger to power and wait about 15-13 minutes, do not leave in that charging position too much time because the battery may EXPLODE.
9. Disconnect all the wires and reconnect the battery to the phone (if not working wait few minutes and start over from step 7) maybe the connections is not good or mot enough charged.
10. power on the phone and you have solved that issue.
This is really helpful. It should be a sticky. :thumbup::thumbup:
Also I would like you to add the type of screw drivers is needed to open the phone's cover and the pins.
Torque screw T5 screwdriver
Small Philips screwdriver
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Good to know in case it happens so thanks but I was just wondering whether just disconnecting battery terminals wasn't enough as quite a few mentioned that that's how they fixed it so not sure how this method works.
Anyway thanks
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
It looks to me that there are circumstances where battery drain is such that the battery voltage drops too far too fast for the phone's charging circuits to cope. (Hence it happening mostly to people running battery-sapping benchmarks.)
gie62001 said:
Good to know in case it happens so thanks but I was just wondering whether just disconnecting battery terminals wasn't enough as quite a few mentioned that that's how they fixed it so not sure how this method works.
Anyway thanks
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As i mentioned the battery discharged fully under the 0.2 Volt (after charging the phone with incompatible charger which output is about 3.5V) *in this case the battery is much powerful than charger and it forwarding the power back to charger and not the charger to phone*
so the phone doesn't know that the battery is OK and thinks that it is bad battery, in this case you should use my method or replace to new one if you have an choice to receive it fast or find in local shop.
I'm not guarantee that my method will save your battery you may need to replace it.
According to the service manual, the wireless charger is also separate from the other phone circuitry.
The red light indicated trickle charging, which is slow. And maybe the phone uses more charging than even trickle charging can provide.
A Qi charger should charge the battery normally even if it is empty, as the phone does not need to power up to achieve high charge currrent.
That sounds a lot easier than opening it up and charging the battery manually!
jutezak said:
According to the service manual, the wireless charger is also separate from the other phone circuitry.
The red light indicated trickle charging, which is slow. And maybe the phone uses more charging than even trickle charging can provide.
A Qi charger should charge the battery normally even if it is empty, as the phone does not need to power up to achieve high charge currrent.
That sounds a lot easier than opening it up and charging the battery manually!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In this case the Qi or Original nexus charger not helping, because it connect to the same circuit as usb charger, the mother board controls the battery charging so in this case you cannot charge in any way if the phone thinks that the battery is bad.
Any way in most cases like that you will change to new battery because the old one is totally dead :/
Neat. So you basically used a defibrillator on the battery . Sad to see the battery management being so poor on this device that it lets the battery drop that low.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda premium
Ummmmm. I think people are just being impatient. I had my N4 powered off while overseas for 2 months. When I returned and turned my N4 on, I received the "Red Light of Death".
I read through all of the forums and found the same fixes everywhere.
Open the phone up and reset the battery terminal bar, etc etc...
Now, I have no problem doing that, but I just couldn't accept such a major flaw from this phone, not to mention the problem appeared to be widespread.
Anyways, back to my original point, people are just crazy impatient and freak out over each and every little thing. The first thing they do is rip their phone open and start tinkering.
I ASSURE YOU. JUST LEAVE IT PLUGGED IN USING THE WALL CHARGER FOR AN HOUR OR SO, and it WILL turn back on.
Now, maybe there are situations out there where my method doesn't work, in that case, shame on LG and Google.
Though, I would be willing to bet, if this happens to anyone else, just leave it the hell alone and let it sit on the wall charger for a couple of hours, turning it on and off a few times in between (or at least attempting to), it will come back to life.
It took a month to get my phone...When i got it finally..it had no charge at all..tried to switch it on but all i got was a red flashing led.it scared me a lot but i plugged in the charger and it stayed there for an hour until it turned on..
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
There is a lot of cases for the red button, in my case nothing helped only that solution, I'm not telling people to use my advice when you see red light first of all should try easier way to solve it, like charge with original charger for few hours etc
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda premium
Hi
This is defeating a safety mechanism. When lithium batteries are over discharged they can become permanently damaged and then are not safe to recharge. Recharging could result in gassing and or an explosion and fire, this may not happen right away or at all, however the chances of this happening is significantly increased after a deep discharge or some other fault causing over-heating etc. Why did LG build in this protection mechanism in the first place? Do people just think it was to annoy owners and have returns for no reason? Lithium batteries can be lethal which is why there have been world wide recalls in some cases, and they are only safe now because of safety devices built into the battery and phone.
I wouldn't want a phone exploding in my pocket or against my face or in my hand or setting fire to my home. Lithium batteries are generally pretty safe only because of these safety mechanisms, defeat them and lithium batteries become pretty dangerous.
Read up on safety issues here: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/lithium_ion_safety_concerns especially under the "What every battery user should know" section and please realise you are literally playing with fire by defecting or shorting out the safety mechanism which this direct charging method is likely doing.
Regards
Phil
Very good thank you
Must say this has saved me from the trouble that would be sending my phone to RMA! Thanks a lot!
This worked for my girlfriends Nexus 4 that she allowed to go completely dead. 3 buttons, etc...would not get a response from the unit.
yev.gavrikov said:
Hello i'll try to explain how i fixed the red notification light when my friend's phone died.
The situation was that he charged the phone from the car built in USB and after he unplugged the charger the phone never powered on.
I tried all the solutions that google search can provide and nothing helped.
The problem was that when you plug the charger the red light stays on without any blinks and nothing helped.
Tools you need:
*Torque screw T5 screwdriver
*Small Philips screwdriver (thanks scream4cheese for remind)
*Plastic handle or something else (to open the back cover without damage it)
*Thin wires
*old/new phone charger
So lets start - hope it will help some one that stuck in this situation
1. First of all you need to remove the back cover to get access to the battery.
2. Unscrew the 2 screws that holds the battery flex cable.
3. Disconnect the flex cable from the phone.
4. Now you need two thin wires that you can connect to the battery flex cable.
5. Find some old phone charger ( i used old nokia charger ) that can provide about 5.0v-5.8v.
6. If you have volt meter find where is the positive and negative (+) and (-).
7. Connect the battery positive (+) to charger positive (+) and negative to negative.
8. Plug the charger to power and wait about 15-13 minutes, do not leave in that charging position too much time because the battery may EXPLODE.
9. Disconnect all the wires and reconnect the battery to the phone (if not working wait few minutes and start over from step 7) maybe the connections is not good or mot enough charged.
10. power on the phone and you have solved that issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
works like a charm, just fixed mine by following the steps.
I dropped my phone in the pond and it was totally submerged under water for about 3-4 minutes, can't power up after, dry for couple of days still doesn't work, all I got was a red led light while charging (not flashing).
I thought the phone was beyond repair so just leave it in a bag of rice to see if there's any miracle. Take the phone out after 3 days, connect to the charger and I get a red flashing light, I think it is a good sign, so I did a google search and redirected to this post, connect the battery flex to an old nokia charger for about 14 minutes and it was fixed, how amazing is that.
My sincere thanks to yev.gavrikov!
-----------------------------------------------------------
update:
the phone turns off automatically after 20 minutes, the red flashing light comes back, will try again tmr, too late to go through that again.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
before I connected the wire with the battery flex I took a read with a volt meter the voltage is 0.36, after a 14-minutes charge the voltage increased to 1.30, still way below the 3.8v standard voltage. But the phone is ok to power up with the stock charger and the battery status bar shows 99% after charge for about half hour. I thought it was fixed, though the the charging rate seems little bit too high, from 1.3v to 99% just within half hour !
Will try again tonight, but I figure might be something wrong with the power management module of the main board.
Don2k9 said:
works like a charm, just fixed mine by following the steps.
I dropped my phone in the pond and it was totally submerged under water for about 3-4 minutes, can't power up after, dry for couple of days still doesn't work, all I got was a red led light while charging (not flashing).
I thought the phone was beyond repair so just leave it in a bag of rice to see if there's any miracle. Take the phone out after 3 days, connect to the charger and I get a red flashing light, I think it is a good sign, so I did a google search and redirected to this post, connect the battery flex to an old nokia charger for about 14 minutes and it was fixed, how amazing is that.
My sincere thanks to yev.gavrikov!
-----------------------------------------------------------
update:
the phone turns off automatically after 20 minutes, the red flashing light comes back, will try again tmr, to. o late to go through that again.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
before I connected the wire with the battery flex I took a read with a volt meter the voltage is 0.36, after a 14-minutes charge the voltage increased to 1.30, still way below the 3.8v standard voltage. But the phone is ok to power up with the stock charger and the battery status bar shows 99% after charge for about half hour. I thought it was fixed, though the the charging rate seems little bit too high, from 1.3v to 99% just within half hour !
Will try again tonight, but I figure might be something wrong with the power management module of the main board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went in the pool with my Nexus 4 in a plastic bag to keep the sand out. Realized it after several minutes that I still had it in my pocket and got it out. Didn't have any rice so I wrapped it in a diaper for a day. Then I got some rice and left it in the rice for about 2 days. I pulled it out and it looked dry enough. Plugged it in and got the battery charging white icons. They went away, I waited a few minutes and tired to turn it on. Nothing. So I waited a while longer and tried it again. The red light started blinking and I couldn't get it to do anything. I tried different cords but no help. When I tried to plug it into another charger base I noticed some condensation in the front camera and in the back flash. So I stopped the whole deal and put it back in rice and laid it up in a window sill. I'm not sure what my next move is. I think the flashing red light might have saved me from turning it on and screwing it up further. I've rooted my previous phones and I feel fairly comfortable with that stuff but I'm a little nervous taking the back off this phone though. I would finally like to try a wireless charger first before I go ripping into the back of this thing. Plus I don't have a volt meter to check the charger. Any suggestions on how I could try a charger without buying one? Or what my next step is?
QI chargrer
Hey there I actually was looking for a soluiton to this, since i HAD the same problem. I didnt wanted to open up my phone, so i decided to charge it back somehow else. With the normal factory charger wasnt really successfull try, so i bought a QI charger, with USB pluggable slot at the end, and plugged to the factory 1.2a converter. After 1-2 hours my phone started to charge, and displayed the charging white battery instead of blinking light!
So im actually really thankfull on all the ideas here, hope my suggestion will help on more ppl.
A little over a week ago I was driving to a client in a very rural area. Had my Nexus 4 running Navigation and playing music over my car's AUX port. Also had my USB plugged into the car's cigarette lighter port to keep it charged.
All of a sudden, the music stopped playing. Looked at the phone and it was off. Pushed the power button to turn it back on and the red LED started blinking. At this point I panicked because it was a 4 hour drive in the middle of nowhere, had no idea where I was going, and now no Nav or phone calls.
Over the next 10 minutes I kept pushing power and holding it for a variable length of time, from just an instant to 30 seconds or more. No dice. Then after what must have been the 20th try or so, the phone booted up. Relief! When it was fully booted, I noticed the battery was around 90%. No problems since then.
FWIW, YMMV.
Nexus 4 Red light of death FIXED
@yev.gavrikov
Thanks a TON Friend :highfive:
Finally My Bros. Nexus4 Worked we just did till Step 3 and again installed it Back
Amazingly phone booted back to basic
The Story:
Device Info Nexus 4
Kernel : Franco nightly R156
ROM: PA 3.6
@Stock Speed Stock CPU Governor
was running AnTuTu Benchmarking the battery was @50% suddenly in between the test phone screen was off, when we checked phone was not booting up :crying:
So i saw this Thread and watch 2-3 videos How to dismantle the Nexus 4
Skills : Moderate (Needs Precision and patience)
I just removed and reinstalled the battery terminal.
And amazingly the phone Started ....WOW Awesome :good: @yev.gavrikov
Thanks
Hi there, long time lurker first time poster as I cant find this problem anywhere and my googlefu has failed me.
Background:
I have a HP Touchpad 32gb, Ive been running CM9 recently.
A month or two into first getting the touchpad I had problems turning it on (assumed battery problem) and got it fixed through HP warranty, returned the same device in working order, non the wiser about what went wrong.
Onto the problem at hand:
Nearly a year later the battery appears to go below safe capacity and wont turn on at all no matter the button combination used or charge/discharge tricks/chargers.
Resorted to taking apart, removing and charging the lipo battery with a RC battery charger and SUCCESS! powers up 100% battery etc.
HOWEVER now no matter what charger or cable combination I use the battery will not charge, webos claims that I am not using the official charger yet I have tried 2 official chargers and many micro usb cables to no avail.
Using JCSullin's TPChargeTest-v1.0 application displays that the device is only receiving 100ma charge using official charger and 0ma (!!) when charging from usb host.
my next guess is that the battery is dead/dying and need a new one, but before I shell out and wait for delivery of a battery I was wondering if anyone had any similar problems or perhaps a suggestion on how to fix this?
Thanks :good:
I have left the charger plugged in with the touchpad off for 24h+ and the battery has gone from 93% to 50% in that time. The battery is clearly not charging.
Does anyone have anything I could try?
If its the battery port, you can try to get a Touchstone charger, which will eliminate the need for a charging cable. If its the battery, the only thing you can really do is try and replace it if you know how. And you are charging it in a wall outlet right? Not a computer? Because a computer wont charge it.
Having exact same problem with my touchpad which previously was charging fine off the original ac charger.
Left it charging with wifi & screen off, went from 11% to 25% in a little over 8 hours ... Not good!
Ok, further update ...
Have swapped over the usb board with another TP brick. Its now charging at the recommended 2A from the wall/mains charger.
So ... best guess seems to point to the usb port/board being faulty. Guess the only option with that is to do what I did or use a wireless charger.
Peace
Edit - a further hint that it was the usb port, was that I could not get it recognised when plugging into pc or laptop. Not in any mode, shape or form...
I had the Usb board replaced while it was still under warranty. Your lucky (sort of) that you had a spare.
Aye, lucky! It's a tp that is totally resistive to any attempts at resurrection, even tpdebrick can't touch it! So it is serving another purpose, as a donor!
I guess a touchstone would have done but file transfer was gonna prove difficult ... the damaged USB port meant my pc could not understand what the hell was being plugged in ...
chris5s said:
Ok, further update ...
Have swapped over the usb board with another TP brick. Its now charging at the recommended 2A from the wall/mains charger.
So ... best guess seems to point to the usb port/board being faulty. Guess the only option with that is to do what I did or use a wireless charger.
Peace
Edit - a further hint that it was the usb port, was that I could not get it recognised when plugging into pc or laptop. Not in any mode, shape or form...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a similar problem to me! I shall have a look for parts online. Might try a new battery aswell.
Thanks!
alowva said:
Sounds like a similar problem to me! I shall have a look for parts online. Might try a new battery aswell.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Out of interest, what happens when you connect to a pc with the USB cable? Is the device recognised? If not, likely the USB port is u/s and a new battery might be an unnecessary expense ... Just a thought.
Peace
chris5s said:
Out of interest, what happens when you connect to a pc with the USB cable? Is the device recognised? If not, likely the USB port is u/s and a new battery might be an unnecessary expense ... Just a thought.
Peace
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent idea! I have checked on android and webos and neither are detecting a USB connection to my PC, but it does detect as "charging" however Touchpad Charge Test still shows its charging at 0ma
I thought it might have been the port assembly that was broken, and I checked to see if it was seated properly where it connects to the motherboard and it seemed to be, perhaps a the data+ or - has been broken, I shall inspect it closer and maybe get out the multimeter.
Thanks for the idea, hopefully i can fix this without getting a new battery! :good:
I have checked the micro USB port on the TP and it seems that the data connections and even possibly the power connections aren't working.
Im going to attempt to resolder them before getting a replacement as they're hard to find and expensive (In in the UK) hopefully that will fix it.
alowva said:
Hi there, long time lurker first time poster as I cant find this problem anywhere and my googlefu has failed me.
Background:
I have a HP Touchpad 32gb, Ive been running CM9 recently.
A month or two into first getting the touchpad I had problems turning it on (assumed battery problem) and got it fixed through HP warranty, returned the same device in working order, non the wiser about what went wrong.
Onto the problem at hand:
Nearly a year later the battery appears to go below safe capacity and wont turn on at all no matter the button combination used or charge/discharge tricks/chargers.
Resorted to taking apart, removing and charging the lipo battery with a RC battery charger and SUCCESS! powers up 100% battery etc.
HOWEVER now no matter what charger or cable combination I use the battery will not charge, webos claims that I am not using the official charger yet I have tried 2 official chargers and many micro usb cables to no avail.
Using JCSullin's TPChargeTest-v1.0 application displays that the device is only receiving 100ma charge using official charger and 0ma (!!) when charging from usb host.
my next guess is that the battery is dead/dying and need a new one, but before I shell out and wait for delivery of a battery I was wondering if anyone had any similar problems or perhaps a suggestion on how to fix this?
Thanks :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello @alowva,
I know it's been a long time since you posted this.
Do you remember what pin did you plugin your LIPO charger?
Did you use nicad?
I have a very low battery I need to boost.
Thanks a lot
pas7771 said:
Hello @alowva,
I know it's been a long time since you posted this.
Do you remember what pin did you plugin your LIPO charger?
Did you use nicad?
I have a very low battery I need to boost.
Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well this is a blast from the past...
I eventually gave up on this tablet, but not before soldering a usb cable directly to the charging board to get a little more life out of it!
However since then I have had plenty of experience with other phones, tablets and laptops, and bare 18650 liion cells recharging and reusing for other projects.
WARNING! DO THE BELOW AT YOUR OWN RISK, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS.
I would recommend taking out the battery from the tablet (which is possible to do without completely dissasembling if you're careful enough)
Once removed the battery itself has a 7 pin connector, the outside wires 2x red (positive + ) and 2x black (negative - ). check the voltage on the battery using a voltmeter, "healthy" voltage is between 3v and 4.2v, if its below 3v you may have issues depending on the charger and if the battery is internally damaged.
The easiest way to connect to a charger is to use some solid core wire (or paperclip) pushed into the white connector on the battery, one wire connecting both red cables, and another connecting both black cables. then connect those wires to the red (positive + ) and black (negative - ) cables on your charger.
Charge at a slow rate and and be careful not to connect red to black!
Make sure you dont leave the charger and battery on anything flamable, a concrete floor or baking tray might help, and keep an eye on it as if the battery is internally damaged it may swell and catch fire (search for videos of lithium battery fire)
I have had a lot of success with reviving batteries in this way, however its best to be safe!
EDIT: dont use NICAD charger, only liion or lipo charger
alowva said:
Well this is a blast from the past...
I eventually gave up on this tablet, but not before soldering a usb cable directly to the charging board to get a little more life out of it!
However since then I have had plenty of experience with other phones, tablets and laptops, and bare 18650 liion cells recharging and reusing for other projects.
WARNING! DO THE BELOW AT YOUR OWN RISK, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS.
I would recommend taking out the battery from the tablet (which is possible to do without completely dissasembling if you're careful enough)
Once removed the battery itself has a 7 pin connector, the outside wires 2x red (positive + ) and 2x black (negative - ). check the voltage on the battery using a voltmeter, "healthy" voltage is between 3v and 4.2v, if its below 3v you may have issues depending on the charger and if the battery is internally damaged.
The easiest way to connect to a charger is to use some solid core wire (or paperclip) pushed into the white connector on the battery, one wire connecting both red cables, and another connecting both black cables. then connect those wires to the red (positive + ) and black (negative - ) cables on your charger.
Charge at a slow rate and and be careful not to connect red to black!
Make sure you dont leave the charger and battery on anything flamable, a concrete floor or baking tray might help, and keep an eye on it as if the battery is internally damaged it may swell and catch fire (search for videos of lithium battery fire)
I have had a lot of success with reviving batteries in this way, however its best to be safe!
EDIT: dont use NICAD charger, only liion or lipo charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your explanation..
I have seen videos on Lipo battery revival.
mine is at 2.540v I will use a Lipo B6 charger, some people said that slow charging in nicad or nimem mode because on lipo mode it will show a low voltage.
I do have a lipo fireproof bag.
Do you know what the blue, yelow and green wire do?
Thanks
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Hello,
I share in this thread, my experience of mounting a 2012 Nexus 7 in my 2008 Toyota avensis.
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The biggest problem was about :
- Power : a Nexus 7 tablet will not boot, or behave strangely if battery is over discharged. This is a real problem because you have to take care of battery deep-sleep when not in car, remove battery heater apps that will prevent to sleep (frequent with GPS apps). To resume, having a battery in the Nexus 7 in car install raise a lot of complication.
- Risk and security to have an Li-ion battery in the top of my dashboard (danger with high temp and direct sun exposition) : Even in north of France, direct sunlight can raise very very high temperature at the top of the dash. So i was very worried to have a lithium battery. For my safety. I was afraid to find my car burned. It can arrive. I think it's really not a good thing when i see other in-dash mount that keep battery inside the nexus.
So, i decided to remove completely the Li-Ion Battery, and power the tablet directly from a 12V->3.7V DC converter, connected to my cigarette lighter.
Everythink work perfectly now. The only two small side-effect are :
- Car ignition will shut off power 2 ou 3 second, and tablet will reboot.
- 40 seconds boot time. It could be long, but i am rarely in my car for less than 2 minutes. So it's really not a problem. My Tom Tom GPS sometime take 30 seconds to be ok.
Total cost for this project are
- 15 dollar for 12V->3.7V converter on ebay
- 130 dollar for a 16G Nexus 7 on ebay
- 120 dollar for a genuine toyota navigation dash mount extracted from an broken avensis that had toyota GPS.
- Some dollar for adhesive, cigarette lighter plug, etc...
Here is some photo. I will add photo from inside if someone is interested (maybe not for a Toyota).
The main interest is to share for my Power problems
(sorry for my french-english)
My avensis before nexus 7 install
ebay - 12V to 3.7V DC Converter
ebay - Genuine Toyota GPS dash part
Final mount
Battery Wires
Which battery wires did you connect the DC-DC converter to? I see the connector has 2 red and 2 black wires.
Thanks
That is amazing. It turned out very professional looking and clean. May I ask how long it took you to get everything just right? i.e. months, weeks, ect. Very very impressive work.
this is really cool
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
edwin108 said:
Which battery wires did you connect the DC-DC converter to? I see the connector has 2 red and 2 black wires.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the Nexus 7 :
- I cut the small battery connector keeping the longest cable possible (so i have say bye bye to the battery !)
- I have connected
> the 2 red cable of the nexus 7 connector to the red DC-DC output
> the 2 black cable of the nexus 7 connector the the yellow DC-DC output
> I cut the yellow and white (the 2 remaining) cables of the nexus 7 connector. Those 2 cable role is to let the nexus 7 know about the temperature and battery status. Not anymore useful as no more battery.
---------- Post added at 09:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:17 PM ----------
nicholi2789 said:
That is amazing. It turned out very professional looking and clean. May I ask how long it took you to get everything just right? i.e. months, weeks, ect. Very very impressive work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. After 3 month, everything work perfectly. It took me about 1 month before i was able to find the best balance.
I unmount Toyota dashboard about 4 times (bad wire, with battery / without battery, etc...)
I really stressed the Nexus 7 and i can say it's really robust !
I am not worried anymore of battery explosion. I wait 45 seconds before tablet is ready to work.
Nice install! I'm going this route with mine.
Are you using Timur's Rom/Kernel?
How did you set it up to power on with the car without having access to the power button on the N7?
Thanks!
I wonder if I can do something like that on my car... And how to make it pleasing.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
looks great very well done
@iiolivier Wow man - that's awesome. I have toyota avensis 2003 with GPS included. And I already have Nexus 7 2012.
I will definitely try this.
Can you provide any link for this dc adapter, please? I'm not well-known with electric, wires and etc. (maybe PM to me will be great). Thanks in advance!!!
Cheers from Bulgaria!
iiolivier said:
B]Risk and security to have an Li-ion battery in the top of my dashboard[/B] (danger with high temp and direct sun exposition) : Even in north of France, direct sunlight can raise very very high temperature at the top of the dash. So i was very worried to have a lithium battery. For my safety. I was afraid to find my car burned. It can arrive. I think it's really not a good thing when i see other in-dash mount that keep battery inside the nexus.
So, i decided to remove completely the Li-Ion Battery, and power the tablet directly from a 12V->3.7V DC converter, connected to my cigarette lighter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've had my Nexus 7 installed in my truck last year, but am concerned because I live in Arizona and it's starting to get hot. So there are no issues removingthe bbattery and running the Nexus 7 directly off power? What if I'm currently plugged in from microusb port of tablet to a cigarette lighter charger? this is all hidden behind the dash. Will it still receive power this way?
Bawb3 said:
Nice install! I'm going this route with mine.
Are you using Timur's Rom/Kernel?
How did you set it up to power on with the car without having access to the power button on the N7?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try to find it as I did this mod last year and didn't save the url. There is a bootloader adb mod where you can set the Nexus 7 to boot by itself when it receives AC power. I have it set up to boot when key turns ignition and power off after 1 minute without power, using Tasker.
Edit, here's the adb command to have the tablet power on when it receives AC power
there is a Fastboot command that you can issue to the bootloader to make the tablet power on once plugged it.* “fastboot oem off-mode-charge 0” makes the unit power on the instant its connected to AC. “fastboot oem off-mode-charge 1” returns to normal state,* so fitting an external switch isn’t 100% necessary, but i decided i wanted one anyway. I’m using Tasker to switch the unit on and off* with the ignition, but having the external switch is a handy addition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you could connect your 3.7v adapter to a constant 12v line and then connect your usb OTG power adapter to a switched 12v line. Then use tasker to detect when the 12v switched goes dead and 'hibernate' the tablet. Then the tablet would run in low power mode off of the car battery untill you turn the car back on. No waiting for the tablet to boot that way and you would keep your time/date.
Great idea about the 3.7v adapter though. I'm stealing that one so I don't need a LiIon battery in the tablet at all.
-J
miatawnt2b said:
you could connect your 3.7v adapter to a constant 12v line and then connect your usb OTG power adapter to a switched 12v line. Then use tasker to detect when the 12v switched goes dead and 'hibernate' the tablet. Then the tablet would run in low power mode off of the car battery untill you turn the car back on. No waiting for the tablet to boot that way and you would keep your time/date.
Great idea about the 3.7v adapter though. I'm stealing that one so I don't need a LiIon battery in the tablet at all.
-J
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Were you replyingto me? II'm not well versed in electrical tinkering. What would I have to do to take the battery out of my tablet, if you don't mind explaining. Currently the tablet is receiving power through a cigarette lighter adapter hard wired behind the dash. When it receives power it boots the tablet, when power is off Tasker shuts down the tablet after 1 min. I'd like to take the battery out because of extreme temperatures here.
Can you tell me how did you install the nexus 7 inside the toyota navigation dash mount ? It's not to biger ? Do you have any pictures from inside the unit with the system mounted where I cand see how you mounted (fixed) the tablet inside? I wont to do the same thing, but my problem is that Nexus 7 (2012) has this dimensions: 198.5 x 120 and do not fit inside. The inside dimensions are maximum 180 x 110. Please help with some pictures. Thanks.
movy said:
Can you tell me how did you install the nexus 7 inside the toyota navigation dash mount ? It's not to biger ? Do you have any pictures from inside the unit with the system mounted where I cand see how you mounted (fixed) the tablet inside? I wont to do the same thing, but my problem is that Nexus 7 (2012) has this dimensions: 198.5 x 120 and do not fit inside. The inside dimensions are maximum 180 x 110. Please help with some pictures. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm in the process of upgrading from the 2012 N7 (which I just sold) to the 2013. I wanted to fill in the gaps on either side of the tablet in the dash because it was bothering me. Here's what I did.
I dremeled the sides of my dash and a bit behind it to accommodate the tablet. You may need to do a little dremeling/sanding to accommodate yours. I then built a 3 sided wooden box that serves as a double DIN dummy to mount the N7 too. The dimensions are:
Front face: 7"
Sides: 5 1/2"
Top and bottom: 5 1/2"
As you can see in the pictures, I cut out a portion of the sides and bottom so it could wrap around the single DIN radio that's behind the N7 in the dash. The box wouldn't have fit for me otherwise, but for you, at least leave the back open so you can put cables and stuff inside.
I left the side mounts that the old radio bolted to in the truck, so basically the box slides in and is held in place just by the pressure from the sides of the mounts and the front when the dash is put back on.
On the wooden box I put two strips of double sided sticky tape. I chose the heavy duty 5lbs, but it's a little more than what's needed and makes adjusting a pain. Just use the cheaper 2 lb strength tape.
On the front of the box, attached to the sticky tape, I mounted a hard plastic snap on case/shell for the tablet (only thing not pictured). The tablet snaps into the case and is subsequently held on the box. You can just take the tablet out of the case if you need to remove it. That way, you're not affixing the actual tablet to the box.
Finally, I had spaces on either side of the tablet (the dash was a bit wider than the tablet itself). I lived with it for a year, but it was ugly and I finally decided to do something about it. I bought standard double DIN trim for a radio, dremeled, sanded, and cut it so it fits, and taped it to the sides of the tablet (pictured). Now, there won't be any spaces, and it looks like it's actually a factory install.
Hope this helps.
I want to know how he mount Nexus 7 in Avensis T25 dash navigation. This is a picture of 2 way to install: the whole tablet (in first case) or only the lcd touch screen in original frame of navigation. For example this is how it fit a GPS Lexand (Russian) inside the unit. The dimensions of the gps-tablet in this case are max 180*110 mm to fit in. And olso, the dimension of lcd (of image) are max 155*90 mm to fit in (la lcd of 7") . This is my problem in finding a tablet with this exterior size and with this lcd size.
Hy guys,
today I also tried to remove my Nexus battery to power it directly. Sadly it isn't working!
The screen is flickering one time, after I hit the power button. Does someone know what could be the issue?
Mugga said:
Hy guys,
today I also tried to remove my Nexus battery to power it directly. Sadly it isn't working!
The screen is flickering one time, after I hit the power button. Does someone know what could be the issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you take a pic of how you hooked it up?
50,000 foot howto:
You will need a 12v to 3.7v converter. take the + and - 3.7v wires and attach them to the red/black wires of the battery plug. If you don't want to cut the plug off the battery you can solder directly to the board where the connector is attached. There are an additional two wires off of the battery plug I believe they are white/yellow. I think these are temp sensors. You should be able to leave them unattached, but I haven't played with it yet. You may need to bridge them with a small resistor.
-J
miatawnt2b said:
can you take a pic of how you hooked it up?
50,000 foot howto:
You will need a 12v to 3.7v converter. take the + and - 3.7v wires and attach them to the red/black wires of the battery plug. If you don't want to cut the plug off the battery you can solder directly to the board where the connector is attached. There are an additional two wires off of the battery plug I believe they are white/yellow. I think these are temp sensors. You should be able to leave them unattached, but I haven't played with it yet. You may need to bridge them with a small resistor.
-J
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haven't got any pics, but i hooked them up directly without the battery. The two red lines with the plus line, and the black ones with ground.
I tried it with my car dc-dc converter. I can program the voltage down to 4,2V. I also measured the voltage directly at the nexus pcb, and it says 4,15-4,2V. I tried it with different voltage levels, up to 5v. When the voltage is too low, I just get one flickering. With a little bit more, I get something like a grey screen. And with round about 5v, I get the Nexus startup screen for about 2 seconds, and then the screen is going black, but the backlight is still turned on.
When I attach the battery like before without any external power, everything is running smooth. I don't really see what could be the problem. The dc-dc converter is able to provide 10A.
EDIT:
Nevermind got it working!
The problem was that the wires for the testing at home where to thin, to provide enough juice (Ampere). After going with two cables for each line, the tablet was booting fine. Any way thx for the help.
iiolivier said:
- Car ignition will shut off power 2 ou 3 second, and tablet will reboot.
- 40 seconds boot time. It could be long, but i am rarely in my car for less than 2 minutes. So it's really not a problem. My Tom Tom GPS sometime take 30 seconds to be ok.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi. Great post, thank you! I plan to do the same but had a few questions:
1. How is it faring over long term use? I imagine the 12V from a car battery is pretty 'noisy' so my concern is with device longevity.
2. Does the N7 2013 model work with 3.7V as well, or does it need a different voltage?
3. Are you able to hook up USB devices using an OTG cable without the battery?
My ideal solution would be to hook the N7 battery connectors to an 'always on' power line and the micro-USB connectors to a switched power line. This way I can use Tasker to hibernate/shut-down the N7 when the car is turned off. A trickle charge after hibernation/shutdown probably won't drain out my car battery too soon. I'm not so much concerned about start-up time (though a quicker startup through hibernation would be a bonus), but rather the concern that repeatedly shutting off power to the tablet abruptly (without giving it a chance to shutdown) probably wouldn't be good for it.
Obviously the assumption here is that the N7 uses voltage detection at the micro-usb connection to determine if power is incoming to the battery. I'll need to test this out. But I want to know if OTG even works (I need it for backup cam) before I tear down my N7 and start poking around with a multimeter.
question
Hi guys. After few long weeks I finally managed to put my nexus 7 in.
Everything works pretty much ok but I was a bit worried about the battery so I bought a power supply buck module, which proved to be a beast . Provides my continuous 3.7V, having the battery removed without any problem AT ALL.
I would like to know if someone tried something similar because I am a bit concerned about the power consumption. Is it ok to leave it on all the time, or not ? Please advice.
Hi everybody.
I want to share how I "revived" my N7000 battery. I didn't find anywhere someone else that did this little thing, and that's why I'm posting here.
If you leave your galaxy Note turned off for a couple of months (it can happen if it is not you main horse any more) the battery goes below 0%. Subsequently if you try to plug it to the power line it gets stuck with the animation of the empty battery with the "loading circle" inside popping on the screen screen every few seconds (I called it dead battery loop but I don't know if this behavior has a proper name). The phone becomes quickly hot while the battery stays cold. I read that someone call this state of the battery as "deep sleep" of the battery controller.
Before buying another battery I tried this and it worked.
Please before actually do this remember that Li-ion batteries tend to catch fire and explode if overcharged or charged with inverted polarity. I am not responsible for damages to people or objects.
Needed material: 2 power cables, 1 power adapter, scissors.
1) take a power cable. Make sure it is NOT CONNECTED TO THE POWER LINE. Cut it near the type B USB port and discard the port.
2) take the cut end of the cable and remove the protective plastic to expose the 4 cables that are inside it. You only need the Red and Black ones so you can cut away the other two.
3) remove the plastic end of the red and black cables to expose the copper parts.
4) Now adjust the ends so you can easily make the red touch the + of the battery and the black the - of the battery at the same time without touching the copper with your hands. MAKE SURE THE TWO CABLES DO NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER WITH THE EXPOSED COPPER END.
5) plug the USB A port of the prepared cable to the power adapter.
6) make the red touch the + and black touch the - of the battery at the same time for 10 seconds. Remember if the battery starts to heat before the end of the 10 seconds STOP IMMEDIATELY and trash it (not in the normal trash but in dedicated ones).
6) unplug the modified cable from the adapter.
7)plug the second cable into the power adapter. Insert the battery into the device and plug the power cable.
8)now the battery should be charging as usual. It is better if you wait until it is completely charged before turning the device on, or at least wait until it is at least 10% charged.
I hope this tip was useful.
I attached the pictures of the modified cable.
Hi here are the pictures.
Hi,
A maniac stole my phone and almost destroyed it. No more screen. Sadly I had some photos from my kids, birthday party and did not backup them :/
When I pluged the phone to a windows computer I see Pixel 7 on the device manager. I think I activated the developper mode though
I went to my local IT strore and he tried with an USB-C-HDMI adapter to see the screen on a computer screen, nothing appears.
Any hint ?
Thanks !
PS : Next move, buy a new pixel 7, plug a mouse and make the same movement to click the right digit and get in the phtone :/
Do u try to transfer data to new phone using USB cable?
One solution is to buy a replacement screen and connect it. You don't have to install it, just let it dangle.
What is your screen lock? If it's alphanumeric you can just use a keyboard.
You need to see what USB interfaces are active. MTP? ADB?
I wrote something to let a master Android login swipe a slave Android, see: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/accessing-my-phone-with-a-dead-screen.4542763/post-88013171
I try to save some pictures in DCIM with an USB cable to my computer. Should I try with another phone ? ???
A replacement screen is about 250 €
How do I know which interface is active ?
In your solution the slave Android seems to have adb active.
hubertes said:
In your solution the slave Android seems to have adb active.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the slave has to simply support OTG (which I'm sure the P7 does).
The master is acting like an absolute digitizer (and not a relative mouse) and also a keyboard.
If ADB is not on, this allows you to navigate to Settings and turn it on.
It's not simple or easy.
You'd need a rooted master of any random model.
You'll probably want a 3rd Android to test the master Android.
You'd need reference screenshots from some helpful P7 owner.
The video shows how, with a BT keyboard paired to the master Android.
There is the additional problem of there being no "hot key" for settings.
You'd have to remember where it was on your launcher.
OTOH, if you did have ADB already enabled all you have to do is unlock the P7.
Even if the screen is black the touch sensing may/may not be broken.
Use this utility https://ftdichip.com/utilities/#MicrosoftUSBView (or lsusb -v if you're on Linux).
Find your device in the left pane and copy/paste the text in the right.
(You can redact your serial number.)
It's really nice to help me like u do
Sadly it seems that my destroyed pixel 7 stoped to send data to my computer. I don't see anything on my w$ devices.
Do someone know if the motherboard "starts" with only the battery pluged-in ?
Which pin should be active to start up ?
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Most devices that have a battery require a battery.
Batteries include a circuit board with the BMS (battery management system).
You're showing four contacts, quite a common setup.
One is for minus, one for plus, one usually for a 10k NTC thermistor to minus.
The fourth could be a simple resistor as identification of the battery pack or a one wire communication to some monitoring on the battery pack.
I'd need a better photo to say anything.
Is that your board? Did you remove it from the case?
You should probably just try to run things normally with the battery connected.
Ok, I often run Androids on a power supply but it requires care and a bit of know-how.
The advantage is that you can see if/how the device is booting.
I think this is a Moto E6 booting up, but I forget.
Found 0 ohm between contactor 1 and 4 when I push the power button in regard to those pins, so it should be it.
I still have 10 % hope, but the battery wont charge anymore...
NB : motherboard photo is from here
Did you check the battery for voltage?
With 99% certainty the two power pins are the outside two.
Is it possible that more than the screen was damaged?
It seems more likely that without an active screen you left it on until the battery died?
Heck, this thing is practically brand new.
Edit: Huh? I saw the video. The battery is connected on a mezzanine connector. I thought that first photo you posted was showing the battery connector.
It sucks that apparently the P7 only natively supports "GoogleCast" and not a Type C alt-mode video.
You can't get a slightly damaged (but working) screen from a repair place? You could just plug it in. Even just to borrow one.
The battery pion is so uncommon(mezzaine connector ?), I d'ont know where to make the measure :/
Yes it is possible, like I said it was a maniqac who destroyed my phone
The phone was 80 % full and left for a week end on the ground under water but fliped back (no water on the motherboard)
Yeah, my phone was 2 month old :/
NO video possible through usb C then ?
The screen costs approximatively 250 €. The maniac destroyed it ion purpose (connector screen riped of)
So the screen was actually removed?
I presume that you've tried to charge it?
Do you have one of those little USB adapters that measure voltage/current?
Can you see if it's trying to charge?
You won't be able to probe/measure anything on the mezzanine connector easily.
Since you're not sure of what is working, this is one of those cases where measuring current on the USB and the voltage/current on the battery are your first steps.
You might want to CAREFULLY remove the battery and take off the tape at the top of the battery until you can see the two tabs of the actual battery.
Be very careful not to short anything!
Do you have an adjustable bench power supply?
Hi,
Don't have those tester. Went to my it store, nothing's charging whern pluged in :/ I did remove the tape, but don't see any +/- tabs :/
could I try with the wireless charger ?
I could have such a bench in my highschool yes.
hubertes said:
I did remove the tape, but don't see any +/- tabs
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you remove enough layers of tape (only on the TOP of the battery where the flex circuit goes in) you should see some shiny (somewhat) flexible tabs about 5mm wide.
Don't bend them too much and break them.