Active cooling with standard cover - Samsung Gear VR

Hi guys,
here my solution of active cooling
Components
- battery: CM5095-WE (MicroUSB in/out) or any other 5V battery
- Fan: Delta EFB0612MA (60x60x10mm, nominal 12V (running at 5V), soldered to microUSB female connector)
- Fixing: velcro strip
Result
- no noise
- no vibration
- low weight
- no need to remove back cover of the Note 4 (tested with Mugen 6640mAh extended battery)
=> no overheating :good:
Good luck
reik o)

works perfect
excellent job done, Bro
...rebuild your solution -to be honest it doesn't look as good as yours, but it does an excellent job.
Tested about one and a half hours nonstop gaming without any warnings or overheating issues.
Being driven at 5V, the 12V FAN is rotating in super-silent mode, to be heard only in absolutely silent environmental conditions.
No need of removing back cover off the phone. Due to the constant airflow, the Note4's overall surface temperature is less then handwarm.
I didn't expect that much high efficiency for this simple crafting.
Just wondering why Samsung didn't implement it on GearVR from the beginning
ThX to reikow and keep up the good work
sincerely
Dr.Schall

Is this exhausting the air out or blowing it into the device?

it is blowing the air to the device.

Thanks for this post. Modded my unit also. Makes a big difference.

Definitely works miracles! Now the Gear VR can run until the battery dies without having to cool down after 15 minutes or so of running.

I'm sorry drilled, my standard cover. Instead, 3D print of the cover.

Looks way nicer than mine, but it works..... GPU centrifugal fan with 2s 850mah lipo battery...
Can be run off battery or any usb charger. Moves air throughout the whole unit and also prevents fogging issue. No vibration, hardly any weight, and keeps a nice breeze on your face

reikow said:
Hi guys,
here my solution of active cooling
Components
- battery: CM5095-WE (MicroUSB in/out) or any other 5V battery
- Fan: Delta EFB0612MA (60x60x10mm, nominal 12V (running at 5V), soldered to microUSB female connector)
- Fixing: velcro strip
Result
- no noise
- no vibration
- low weight
- no need to remove back cover of the Note 4 (tested with Mugen 6640mAh extended battery)
=> no overheating :good:
Good luck
reik o)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How is the fan cable connected? Does a micro usb have 3 wires like the fan does?

highlordkram said:
How is the fan cable connected? Does a micro usb have 3 wires like the fan does?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can anyone tell me how the micros usb cable attaches to the fan wires? What wires did you solder, as the fans usually have 3 wires. Does the micro usb also have 3 and what ones match up?

reikow said:
Hi guys,
here my solution of active cooling
Components
- battery: CM5095-WE (MicroUSB in/out) or any other 5V battery
- Fan: Delta EFB0612MA (60x60x10mm, nominal 12V (running at 5V), soldered to microUSB female connector)
- Fixing: velcro strip
Result
- no noise
- no vibration
- low weight
- no need to remove back cover of the Note 4 (tested with Mugen 6640mAh extended battery)
=> no overheating :good:
Good luck
reik o)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for this great idea. I completed mine a while ago and was playing for over 45 minutes and the phone did not even get warm to the touch. I used a longer USB cable so that the battery does not have to be on the visor itself but can sit in the chair or couch next to me

highlordkram said:
Can anyone tell me how the micros usb cable attaches to the fan wires? What wires did you solder, as the fans usually have 3 wires. Does the micro usb also have 3 and what ones match up?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
usually the fan has a plus/minus and a separate one to return back the speed of the fan. Just try them to make sure spins in right direction - look up which pins on the usb you need! You can't really hurt the fan if you try wrong - so just try them!

sbaeder said:
usually the fan has a plus/minus and a separate one to return back the speed of the fan. Just try them to make sure spins in right direction - look up which pins on the usb you need! You can't really hurt the fan if you try wrong - so just try them!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. I got the mod done already and all working Great. Played Herobound online for over an hour and no overheating at all. Used a long usb cord, so I can put battery on my side and not weigh down the headset. Also used hot glue gun on fan, over hole in visor plate, and worked out very nice.

Solutions I've seen here on XDA or on Youtube seem to be bulky, require soldering and often modifying the protective case in some way.
I open this to debate, as the cleanest Gear VR cooling mod seen so far. WITH DOUBLE FANS.
Look it up and feedback is welcome!
Link: http://forum.xda-developers.com/mob...b-fan-powerbank-gear-vr-t3358754#post66731816

Ezzine said:
Solutions I've seen here on XDA or on Youtube seem to be bulky, require soldering and often modifying the protective case in some way.
I open this to debate, as the cleanest Gear VR cooling mod seen so far. WITH DOUBLE FANS.
Look it up and feedback is welcome!
Link: http://forum.xda-developers.com/mob...b-fan-powerbank-gear-vr-t3358754#post66731816
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like it, but won't it still heat up more than the cover modified type of mod, due to not pulling in the room temp air from outside of the case cover?

There are six wide enough air intakes/exits (roughly 50mm high and 300mm wide).
Two on the sides and four spread upwards and downwards within the design of the protective cover itself.
I only gave it a first run with a movie and a heavy 3d game yesterday for about two hours so of course it went smoothly. No fogging (fogging was present even in the movies before) and no heating warnings during the game.
I'll let you know after more usage and hopefully if I have time with longer usage sessions.
It does though make a tiny winy bit of hiss due to the two fans blowing close to each other. But that doesn't bother me as I often have earphones or headphones on (you only notice the air hiss sounds when you take the earphones off).
This video shows how big are the in-design air intakes/exists that we all have with our protective cover.
https://youtu.be/kXPEArWpgm0
Sent from my SM-N910F using XDA-Developers mobile app

Related

Tutorial on how to make dock for Sony Xperia ZR and other Xperias at home (DIY)

Things needed,
(1) Any hard plastic sheet to make charging base stand (I had used plastic from square plastic bottle, image attached)
(2) Nokia to sony erricson - old mobiles' charging adapter. (image attached)
(3) Ordinary USB cable with power surge protection (not a must thing to have power surge protection).
(4) Two sided sticking tape. (image attached)
(5) Scissors and sharp blade to cut the plastic sheet.
(6) Soldering iron.
(7) Original sony charger - the one which came with your mobile.
(8) Quick fix to stick the things together.
First of all, you have to make charging case to adapt the phone, measure the width of the phone, add 2 mm to it, draw square (black square as in figure) with this width and height on the plastic sheet from which you intend to make case. Now measure thickness of your phone, add 2 mm to it, draw two parallel lines (blue lines as in figure) on the adjoining rectangular lines on the square, secondly draw another two parallel lines (red lines as in figure) parallel to blue lines to make supporting sleeve. Fold them according to shown in figure, and stick them with quick fix to hold them in place. Allow it to dry.
Then put your phone in this case, mark the placements of golden contact ports (dock ports) on the side wall of the case with pen.
Take the charger adapter, adjust the contact pins according to distance between golden contact points of phone, cut the space on the side wall of the plastic case to fit this charger adapter so that after fixing it, the contact pins of adapter comes in contact with phone golden contact ports.
Now, cut the second end of USB cable (the end towards the power surge protector), find out which one is +ve and which one is -ve, and solder them to the pins of charger adapter after opening the covering of the adapter (non branded adapters are easy to open) so that +ve PIN COMES IN CONTACT TO THE UPPER GOLDEN CONTACT POINT OF THE PHONE, second one is ground, so solder it to the remaining contact pin. Close the cover of charger adapter, remove adjoining plastic insertions pins up to the base, fix adapter with quick fix to the already cut out space of the side wall of the plastic case and allow it to dry.
Plug this USB to your original charger and the DOCK IS READY
You can stick the case to wall with two sided tape as shown in photo, so that when phone is placed in the case, it remains tilted and hence by gravity, golden dock port comes in contact with charger adapter pins.
Hope this tutorial will help you.
----Inspired from XDA-----
Disclaimer:- I have and am using this self made dock to charge my own Sony Xperia ZR without any problem to phone or battery but I do not take any responsibility of what so ever happens to your phone by making and using this charging dock.
Charging speed?
I tried to make a dock using a printer usb cable and it worked but the charging speed was really slow. I got 1% charge in about 20 mins.
Could you please tell the charging speed using your dock?
Thanks.
Charging Speed
DPY! said:
I tried to make a dock using a printer usb cable and it worked but the charging speed was really slow. I got 1% charge in about 20 mins.
Could you please tell the charging speed using your dock?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
100 % charging required 3 hrs in my case vs 2.5 hrs with direct charging. I suggest you to use the USB cable which came with any mobile device for charging/data transfer. They have very low resistance value. You can also check the power output of native charger and your dock if there is any difference.
Thanks very much for this great tutorial,
But one thing i didn't get is how to adjust the contact pins to the right distance ?
samylyes2304 said:
Thanks very much for this great tutorial,
But one thing i didn't get is how to adjust the contact pins to the right distance ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For that, all you have to do is, open sony charger adapter, remove the pins and replace according to the distance required (distance between golden dock points of phone). There are grooves already present to adjust the space between this two pins in majority of after market charger adapters.
That's my DIY Dock for ZR
That's my DIY Dock for ZR
Hi!
I have the honor to present my version of DIY dock for ZR. ^^
I made it in ​​1 afternoon. It cost me 0€. (I've collected the 2 pins and the micro USB port on a broken phone that I had in a drawer.)
It's made of wood as you can see. I designed it for my ZR fits perfectly in with the silicone case. But I also intended that the 2 contacts are adjustable so that I can use the phone in the dock without case.
My ZR really fits perfectly, I just have to let go in the dock and it sets up all alone and recharge.
The 2 little pieces of steel works as 2 little springs and permit that the contact of the pins with the phone is always perfect. And the 2 screws permit to adjust exactly the position of the 2 pins.
I will soon paint the dock. But it's not urgent.
The only drawback is that the dock charging speed is not as fast as usb cable charge speed. But It's not a problem of design of my dock.
So there is some photos of my dock.
molly.man said:
Hi!
I have the honor to present my version of DIY dock for ZR. ^^
I made it in ​​1 afternoon. It cost me 0€. (I've collected the 2 pins and the micro USB port on a broken phone that I had in a drawer.)
It's made of wood as you can see. I designed it for my ZR fits perfectly in with the silicone case. But I also intended that the 2 contacts are adjustable so that I can use the phone in the dock without case.
My ZR really fits perfectly, I just have to let go in the dock and it sets up all alone and recharge.
The 2 little pieces of steel works as 2 little springs and permit that the contact of the pins with the phone is always perfect. And the 2 screws permit to adjust exactly the position of the 2 pins.
I will soon paint the dock. But it's not urgent.
The only drawback is that the dock charging speed is not as fast as usb cable charge speed. But It's not a problem of design of my dock.
So there is so photos of my dock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks cool man. This is genius and creativity.
Xperia ZR dock-charger plates polarity??
Hello everyone!
Can anyone tell me the polarity of the Xperia ZR's charging plates? I mean which one is positive and which one is negative?
I want to make my own dock as well but I am afraid that I might fry my phone by messing up with the polarity. I don't have a tester by the way.
Can anyone show me a picture of this?
Something that looks like the attached picture below.
Please do *NOTE that the picture is only to tell you what I mean. It doesn't mean that the content(polarity) is accurate.
Someone please correct the illustration if it's wrong. If it is right, please confirm as well.
Thank you guys!!!
Earl John said:
Hello everyone!
Can anyone tell me the polarity of the Xperia ZR's charging plates? I mean which one is positive and which one is negative?
I want to make my own dock as well but I am afraid that I might fry my phone by messing up with the polarity. I don't have a tester by the way.
Can anyone show me a picture of this?
Something that looks like the attached picture below.
Please do *NOTE that the picture is only to tell you what I mean. It doesn't mean that the content(polarity) is accurate.
Someone please correct the illustration if it's wrong. If it is right, please confirm as well.
Thank you guys!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
The polarity on the picture is good. The + on the top and the - below.
The first time I hadn't any idea about the good polarity, i've try by putting wires in the plates, it was the good polarity at the firt try. But wanted to try the invert polarity (idiot idea ), the result, ZR shutdown instantly ! I was very scared but it restarted, fortunately.
Don't forget to show us your DIY dock when you will have finish it.
Kodus buddy!
molly.man said:
Hi
The polarity on the picture is good. The + on the top and the - below.
The first time I hadn't any idea about the good polarity, i've try by putting wires in the plates, it was the good polarity at the firt try. But wanted to try the invert polarity (idiot idea ), the result, ZR shutdown instantly ! I was very scared but it restarted, fortunately.
Don't forget to show us your DIY dock when you will have finish it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks buddy!!
I will post some pictures of my own D.I.Y. dock when it's done
How about the charging speed of yours? Is it fast enough? Others in this thread had experienced very slow charging speed. I wonder what caused it. Perhaps, the type of wire they used. So I guess I need to look for good wires suitable for fast charging as well. Any suggestion?
Earl John said:
Thanks buddy!!
I will post some pictures of my own D.I.Y. dock when it's done
How about the charging speed of yours? Is it fast enough? Others in this thread had experienced very slow charging speed. I wonder what caused it. Perhaps, the type of wire they used. So I guess I need to look for good wires suitable for fast charging as well. Any suggestion?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Concerning charging speed, it's a boring problem for me.
At the beggining, my ZR charge well but slowly. If I go to bed and connect the ZR at the dock with less than 20%, the tomorow morning, the ZR wasn't completly charged ( around 90%) after 6-7 hours.
And since a moment, my ZR don't want to charge. I put it on the dock, the led light up but it don't charge, it's discharge ! Or sometimes it charge about 1% per 30 minutes, so currently I let my dock in the drawer... :crying:
I don't know from where comes the problem. I've exactly the same electric values as a friend's official Z dock (4,86V and 1650mA for me) but the ZR don't charge. My electric circuit is good as well. Electric contacts seem good.
perhaps
molly.man said:
Concerning charging speed, it's a boring problem for me.
At the beggining, my ZR charge well but slowly. If I go to bed and connect the ZR at the dock with less than 20%, the tomorow morning, the ZR wasn't completly charged ( around 90%) after 6-7 hours.
And since a moment, my ZR don't want to charge. I put it on the dock, the led light up but it don't charge, it's discharge ! Or sometimes it charge about 1% per 30 minutes, so currently I let my dock in the drawer... :crying:
I don't know from where comes the problem. I've exactly the same electric values as a friend's official Z dock (4,86V and 1650mA for me) but the ZR don't charge. My electric circuit is good as well. Electric contacts seem good.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds strange. Are you using the original charger unit that came with your phone? How about charging via micro usb directly to the phone, does it still work?
I really think that there must be a specific type of wire that should be used for fast charging.
Also, try to double check the in wires of your dock. There could be short circuit happening inside or maybe the wire itself is nearly, completely cut.
Earl John said:
That sounds strange. Are you using the original charger unit that came with your phone? How about charging via micro usb directly to the phone, does it still work?
I really think that there must be a specific type of wire that should be used for fast charging.
Also, try to double check the in wires of your dock. There could be short circuit happening inside or maybe the wire itself is nearly, completely cut.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I use the official wall charger (EP880) designed for the ZR. With USB cable + wall charger my ZR charge fastly.
Concerning wires, it's not needed to use some specific ones. You just need to have the correct electric values at the dock pins. In my case it's good, I've the same power as on an official dock. You need to have same values as you measure with the wall charger, it's approximatly 5V and 1500mA. In my case I've 4,86V and 1650mA with the official wall charger and with my DIY dock.
There is no short circuit because I've the good values in the pins. Due to the conception of my dock I can check the electric values by return my dock when my ZR is in place into it. And all seems good... in theory ! x)
EDIT : I use CM11 Official. I think my problem is a software problem and not an material problem. Mabye with old nightlies dock charging works but with new nightlies there is a bug.
thanks for the tutorial! I'm planning to make one!
Hi !
I have solved my problem of dock !
It's really weird but it was a problem of weldings not properly done. However, the current seems to pass but not charge.
Now I have +1% by 2 minutes of charge.
so this is mine.. made from audio cassette case, old siemens phone data cable and a lot of hot glue.. ^_^;
just until the cheap dock from ebay arrives..
Dude. The aftermarket dock is better than stock and costs 10 bucks on ebay shipping included. Buy that. Best tutorial.
Sent from my C5503 using XDA Free mobile app
Hi, here's my version of a diy dock
Things needed,
1. Styrofoam /thermocol block
2. Kekda charger (that's what it's called in Mumbai)/ universal battery charger
3. USB cable
4. Sharp knife
5. Screw driver with a 4inch + shaft.
6. Heat.
Get hold of a Styrofoam /thermocol block cut to desired shape so as to fit your ZR and outer body. A 1 inch thickness on all walls is recommended.
Take the universal battery charger and remove the battery holder part having springness in it.
Take the screw driver and heat it and then cave in a slot for the Kekda charger in the back of the Styrofoam block by slowly melting ( Styrofoam shrinks in the presence of heat), else use a heated solder gun to cave in a slot.
Cut one end of USB to expose wires and solder on the Kekda charger part.
Red wire + on top of the charging pin and black - on lower.
After soldering press in the Kekda charger and adjust the pins accordingly.
Done.
http://instagram.com/p/tTMg4iIriD/
http://instagram.com/p/tTMeHoorh8/
http://instagram.com/p/tTMa1OIrh3/
http://instagram.com/p/tTMVc4Irhu/
Unable to upload pictures on xda.... Sorry
Sent from my C5502 using xda app-developers app
---------- Post added at 01:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:06 AM ----------
Sorry i forgot to show whats a Kekda charger
http://instagram.com/p/tTNGbLorjS/
Sent from my C5502 using xda app-developers app
My second diy dock. Better than the first first one
The circuit board is just to attach a mini usb female on a sturdy thing using fevikwik ( a super fast instant adhesive glue.) The pins used are of a old nokia phone where yhe battery is inserted in the phone.
Total cost in INR,
Nokia pins : 10
Circuit board : free from scrap
Mini usb female: 20
Body : free .
Total 30 . I.e. 1/2 a $
Sent from my Xperia ZR using XDA Free mobile app
Guys save me....
Look i need help........i accidentally put the wrong polarity of the cable to wrong plate on the phone ....i had around 80% battery that time.Now the phone wont start . I tried taking out and putting back the battery but it still wont start......Expecting a reply ASAP :crying:

DIY Wireless charger for Droid4

Hi!
First, I'm sorry for English, I'm not professional.
A few days ago I made a working wireless charger for Motorola Droid 4.
What are the benefits?
People says, the original inductive charging cover is not compatible with most of cases.
Who live away from USA, can't use a wireless charger, becouse it is only available (officially) in the US. It is very hard to find on eBay or any other site. Almost impossible.
Very cheap. The original charging cover at US, Verzion is $29.99. (+ shipping, and need a person who ship it to me) It is only a cover, and we still need a charger as well.
So, I found a charging pad with and without receivers. There was a small problem. The receivers are only for Samsung Galaxy S3, S4 and Note. Their connectors aren't compatible with Droid 4, but the charging voltage is OK.
We need to take it to compatible with Droid 4. I looking for a long time, which one can I choose. Fortunately I made the right decision.
I bought that: Qi Inductive Wireless Charging Upgrade Kit for Samsung Galaxy S3
Link here
That is only for $30.10 with EU plug. The package include charging pad, usb cable, 1500mAh charger and S3 compatible receiver, and worldwide free shipping.
The size of receiver unit is compatible with free space of phone. We need some cutting but it isn't horrible.
First, I recommend you try, how fits the module in your phone.
Then mark with a felt.
The electrical connector pins are big, (and incompatible) we need to remove it carefully. I used a rework station with hot air (360°C) but you can use a medium sized soldering iron. I think, about 50-60W of power is enough. It took for about 30 secs per pin.
It is important, you need to place the receiver in such a manner, if you remove the back cover, the S3 and some other text need to be visible! Otherwise it will not work!
You see backside of the phone, and the camera is on top. Removed cover. In the right side, you can see four copper pins. The top row is irrelevant. We need tha bottom row. In the bottom row, on the left tere is the +5 V pin. On the right, there is a Ground pin.
We need to make contact between +5V pin of the phone and the +5V charging pin of the receiver unit.
Place the receiver unit to the phone, and see what size of copper wire you need. The lower pin of receiver unit is the +5V. We need to connect it.
I used a wire,1 mm in diameter. It is lacquered, I cycled down it from an electrical part (coil).
I think, that half millimeter in diameter is enough, but a found that, and it is recommended due to the relative high current (about 1A).
When you use thinner wire, you can easier take the cover to the phone.
So you need to solder wire to receiver's +5V pin. Please use the minimum quantity of soldering wire, becouse if you make a big knot there, you will have not enough place to take cover back.
When it is done, you can see how can you bend (or cut) the wire for best connectivity with phone's 5V pin.
Now you need to solder a wire to ground, like the previovus one, but not sure, that the two wore have enough space, and we can make easily short corcuit.
For this reason, we will use the iron cover of the SD card slot. This is a very good ground point.
So, one cable will go down, other is go up. They can fit and the soldering is more easy.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL! I recommend, before you make any electrical or hot operating you need to put an aluminium foil or an iron plate to top of the battery. I think to taking out battery and then in, is not easily possible, becouse after soldering there are the receiver. The battery can damage and explosive! The plastic parts of pohone can tolerate the heat for sort time! If you can not solder succesfuly, you need to wait while the parts cooling down! I recommend, use flux and/or high quality of soldering tin. Take out the SD Card! Please don't make short circuit!
It is not too difficult, but you need to be careful and attentive.
When the soldering done, you can try the charger.
Before you can take cover to phone, you need to cut the lower center of receiver. (you can see on the cover, exactly where. There are a claw and on the phone there ara a hole) Important! We need all of holes on phone, so the wires must not hang in to holes.
I cut the piece of receiver unit from lower left side, at the speaker.
Thats all. We are done. I think it longer to read than make :cyclops:
I made some pictures, I will mark these and upload in short time.
I'm going to measure the charging time with:
1,5A USB charger (direct cable)
1,5A USB charger with wireless charging pad
1,5A USB charger with wireless charging pad (phone in a 1 mm thickness of Trident case)
0,5A standard laptop USB (direct cable)
0,5A standard laptop USB with wireless charging pad
0,5A standard laptop USB with wireless charging pad (phone in a 1 mm thickness of Trident case)
I use that from 3 days ago. It works correctly. By the factory, the charging current is 1000mA with the 1,5A charger. About 66% of efficiency.
The USB charger's stand by consumption is 0,4W.
When the charging pad is connected and it is in stand by mode, the consumption is 0,98W
I'm going to bring images, and refresh the post, but here (Hungary, GMT +1) the time is am 2:31.
Good luck guys!
---------------------------------
Uploaded images,
here are the original, better quality images. (11.5MB zip)
That great way to charge the phone. i know that my usb plugin is getting a little wore out.......glad to know that there another way to charge up the phone in case of emergency. Congrats.
Hi,
thanks, it works for me
My IQ receiver was a bit higher, or the battery, so I had troubles to fit it in. My solution was to cut every superfluous piece and pull the uper layer of slide away. Additionally, I put it a bit nearer to the camera, The last thing was to horizontally cut the gold contacts and solder the wire directly on them.
During charging, the usb charger+pad+droid 4 use 7W, without the droid 4 the pad+charger draw 0,4W, both measured at the primary side ot the charger.
Best regards,
mifritscher
Thanks for the info, looks promising I love your using Micro SD casing as GND
BTW the pad + receiver can be found at eBay for as low as US $12 Gonna try out for myself soon.
Did you get to measure the charge times?
LuH said:
Thanks for the info, looks promising I love your using Micro SD casing as GND
BTW the pad + receiver can be found at eBay for as low as US $12 Gonna try out for myself soon.
Did you get to measure the charge times?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Charging times are about equivalent
Different approach, same result
Hi, thanx 4 the great idea.
I took a different approach to install the charging pad. I felt not comfortable to solder directly to the phone, so I used copper-tape, capton-tape and some short wires I took from old headphones to mod the pad directly into the back cover of my phone. it got a little bit bumpier (half a mm), but it charges perfectly.
I applied some solder to the ends which connect to the pins, so the copper wont oxidize and the connection has more pressure.
The pictures in better quality:
View attachment goodquality.zip
zuloo.de said:
Hi, thanx 4 the great idea.
I took a different approach to install the charging pad. I felt not comfortable to solder directly to the phone, so I used copper-tape, capton-tape and some short wires I took from old headphones to mod the pad directly into the back cover of my phone. it got a little bit bumpier (half a mm), but it charges perfectly.
I applied some solder to the ends which connect to the pins, so the copper wont oxidize and the connection has more pressure.
View attachment 2842634
View attachment 2842635
View attachment 2842636
The pictures in better quality:
View attachment 2842637
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a nice solution, and pretty much how the "real thing" was probably set up. I noticed that the back has an internal indentation where the pins are to accommodate the connector, and I had experimented with how I might fit a charging pad in there (actually, it was the connectors that I saw as the biggest challenge), but didn't manage to get anything that I thought was robust enough (I was using cut down parts of a SIM card for the pins to make contact with - you look to have done a better job with the copper tape.
I'm really surprised that we can't buy a new back with all of this gubbins already installed - perhaps you should manufacture a few?
mugen 3800mAh inductive charging cover required!!!
i'm tempted to try this myself. the droid4 keeps getting better.
i just experimented with cardboard, seems to have plenty of room between the cover and the battery. i definitely need inductive charging.
Update 2016
@zuloo.de
Hi! I copied your method for wireless charging but I was too lazy for soldering. That is why I used only copper tape. I ordered under 5$ charging pad and receiver for Galaxy S3 (cheap from China) and it is working good. My receiver says that it can output only 0.8A so I guess it is little bit slow. Can you tell your feelings about the heat? I think that my Droid 4 is pretty hot but I never used wireless charging on other phones so I don't know if it is normal. But thanks anyway posting your method :good:
Here is pictures. I tried to take picture about the bump. It is not bad but you can feel it.

Wireless Charging inside the OnePlus 6T mod

https://imgur.com/a/hhlTgw8
I'm super happy with the results
I bought a more expensive wireless USB type C charger that I thought would charge faster, since it was advertised as a 2000 mah (On amazon, it was gold), but once you open it up it seems to be the same cheap 1000 mah ones.
I did this because my phone is getting old, and I cracked the back glass, and I figured, while I'm inside... I might as well do it.
I had a blast, and I'm super happy with the results, it charges slow, but it works! and I can keep using my wired charger!
Syndor said:
https://imgur.com/a/hhlTgw8
I'm super happy with the results
I bought a more expensive wireless USB type C charger that I thought would charge faster, since it was advertised as a 2000 mah (On amazon, it was gold), but once you open it up it seems to be the same cheap 1000 mah ones.
I did this because my phone is getting old, and I cracked the back glass, and I figured, while I'm inside... I might as well do it.
I had a blast, and I'm super happy with the results, it charges slow, but it works! and I can keep using my wired charger!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a pretty cool project! Care to elaborate on the steps and materials needed?
One pointer from my end: do not leave this charging overnight or when you're away from the device! Though customizations like this are fun and interesting, they are also a common source of house fires. Risks are probably low here as it involves slow charging but you really don't want to risk it.
Timmmmaaahh said:
That's a pretty cool project! Care to elaborate on the steps and materials needed?
One pointer from my end: do not leave this charging overnight or when you're away from the device! Though customizations like this are fun and interesting, they are also a common source of house fires. Risks are probably low here as it involves slow charging but you really don't want to risk it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm making the small guide and I'll post it later
The bad thing is I couldn't really take many pictures, since the phone is what I used to do that, so I'll be using some footage from ifixit teardown video.
So this all began when my phones back crystal panel broke on a fall.
I decided I had to replace it, so I ordered a new Transparent one, since like Jerryrigeverything I love to be able to see the electronics.
While I was at it I figured, why not add wireless charging to the phone? It should be possible, so I looked around for a guide, and I found this one:
https://www.instructables.com/Add-Wireless-Charging-to-Any-Phone-Using-the-LG-V2/
That was way sloppier than what I wanted, but it was a good read, and you can read about what he did.
You will need, a multimeter to check for continuity
A soldering iron, one that can regulate heat so you don’t damage anything, and with the smallest tip you can find
A donor charging receiver
Time and patience.
After that
With help from ifixit (link: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/OnePlus+6T+Teardown/115698 )
I opened up the phone, and since ifixit said there was no fingerprint connector you can just go at it, heat, and separate.
Once inside, disconnect the battery first.
The OnePlus 6T has a different design, there’s no pcb for the usb c on the speaker area, it has a connector that goes up to the main pcb, that snaps right next to the battery, since they had to make room for the optic fingerprint scanner.
So I removed the battery, so I could strip the layer of safety glue and make a little more room by peeling away a couple of layers, otherwise this wouldn’t close.
I started probing around with my multimeter for continuity, to do this, I connected the usb type c wireless charge pad (this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087TW7MGK/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=AQB8EOE9WF3ZF&psc=1 ) after I stripped the protecting plastic cover (to make it even thinner, and to see the insides).
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5118635&d=1603036807
So you connect it and probe the +Vbus and the Ground on that pad, at first I was a bit baffled, since it had pins on both sides, why if it isn’t carrying data, then I realized how stupid I was being, of course, it’s because it’s usb type c, you can plug it in both ways, and it needs to have the correct pins either way.
So I managed to probe around for continuity, and found out these are the correct spots.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5118637&d=1603036807
I had to remove some of the plastic on the NFC cover to allow the wires to pass, you can see on the final image the route the wires had to take.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5118639&d=1603036807
As you can see, I also jumped both grounds since it wouldn’t work if I didn’t.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5118633&d=1603036807
The first one is beefier, but it wouldn’t fit since everything on the PCB was bigger, the thing is, they charged at the same rate when tested with a usb type c power meter around 680-700 mah of charging power with a 10 watt wireless charger.
I ended up using this other one which was cheaper, and also smaller, not as sexy, but that’s the price to pay.
https://www.amazon.com/Version-Wire...48&sprefix=type+c+wireless+cha,aps,185&sr=8-3
so all that was left to do, was place a nice thin sticker on my battery (I miss the red battery days) to make it look a little bit better, and close it up with the transparent back cover (also from amazon).
As a side note, I placed a USB C to C power meter, and these little things do seem to have sensors for when the battery is full, so they don’t overcharge or overheat.
So I left it overnight with a 65 watt PD USB C to C charger, and a wall plug power meter, and once it’s soldered in, it also seems to drop down the charging, and it also stops giving out heat when it’s fully charged, so there might be something on the small PCB for charge detection, or maybe it’s the phones own full charge detection and it stops asking for power, since this would be the equivalent of being connected with a cable.
Still, everyone should operate at their own safety and I’m not responsible if you set your house on fire, but I will continue leaving it overnight.
It charges slowly, but I can also plug in my dash charger, and again, it doesn’t overheat, the PCB on the wireless coil receiver seems to be doing something, maybe.

dual case screen hack to allow normal usb c ?

Does anyone have a broken dual screen case so we can have a peak inside and work out how solder a female usb c port in the case?
im thinking best case, its easy as tacking on the 4 main wires (grd, positive, data0, data1) with female port glued where earphone jack is, or close by,
and worse case have a female usb c plug hand out of the case.
I would pay money to have this mod done. I absolutely can't stand proprietary connections and dongles. WTF was LG thinking ?? I mean seriously. WHY? BTW if you need a dongle (got a case but did not come with a dongle) they are $9 on lg.com (versus the insane $20 to $30 people are scalping them for on ebay and amazon) and S4299869 might get you free shipping (seemed to work for me but then did not work so its iffy)
Why not cut and take out the proprietary intermediate on the V60 case (which NEEDLESSLY stresses the USBc port on the V60 itself making the dual screen case a terrible idea). Cut it out then there's a port open enough to feed in and plug in the regular usbc charger tip to V60 usbc. bamm - done.
Only hurdle is you don't want to pull a cable by it's wire but by the connection mold/base. Tie a string to base and pull that?
because any mod that axes the (very useful and better) headphone jack isn't one I'd dig.
jojoatt said:
Why not cut and take out the proprietary intermediate on the V60 case (which NEEDLESSLY stresses the USBc port on the V60 itself making the dual screen case a terrible idea). Cut it out then there's a port open enough to feed in and plug in the regular usbc charger tip to V60 usbc. bamm - done.
Only hurdle is you don't want to pull a cable by it's wire but by the connection mold/base. Tie a string to base and pull that?
because any mod that axes the (very useful and better) headphone jack isn't one I'd dig.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Except if you cut out the port the dual screen case will no longer work, it needs to connect to the phone somehow. The proprietary port is annoying I agree, but the alternative is to have the case chin be over double as thick, which would make using the dual screen case somewhat of a challenge. I don't personally own the dual screen case, I'm planning on getting one, but here's what I would do for charging:
1. For charging overnight take the phone out of the case - if you're just checking your phone in the middle of the night (not saying that's advisable) you probably won't miss the dual screen case all that much. The reason I recommend this is because if you're like me and tend to be unpredictable in your movements during the night, a magnetic connector could become disconnected, or even if you get up for some reason in the night and catch the cable.
2. For charging during the day, or any other time where you may be moving, or using it while charging, I'd do the same thing. I use my phone a lot but I always will have a period during the day to fully charge the phone. I'm guessing the dual screen case will lower the battery life by about 25%, landing us at 5 hours 15 minutes from 7 hours. Examine your lifestyle and search for a 2 hour period during the second half of the day where you're not on your phone. Charge during this time. If you can, use the magnetic connector to charge during this time since it will remove some of the stress of plugging and unplugging the dual screen case, therefore expanding the lifespan of your port. Even if it's just an hour, this is enough to get to around 70% battery, which depending on when you go to sleep should be enough to get you through the rest of the day. I plug my phone in when I'm not using it all the time, this is enough to not have battery anxiety.
I'd also like to say I agree with you regarding the headphone jack. Yes the dual screen case would still be useful on a phone without a headphone jack, but given this phone has it, it would be ridiculous to axe it. As everyone on this forum probably knows, the V60's large and comprehensive collection of features make it irreplaceable, and even removing one of those features would begin to show where newer phones could do better in my opinion.

General Be careful with your charger cable

The charging speed is absolutely mental, the 0 -100% in 30 minutes is legit.
But one thing to note, the cable itself shouldn't be kinked, I've had a few of these before and you can break them fairly easy if you wrap up your cables all the time, try to leave it as loose and straight as possible.
Besides that, I'm so impressed by the speed of this charger, it goes like hell.
Avoid pulling* on them except by grasping the plug housing. Where the cable meets it are the weakest link. Never bend the cable there.
That's the spot where most fail.
*including phone saved by cable drops
blackhawk said:
Avoid pulling* on them except by grasping the plug housing. Where the cable meets it are the weakest link. Never bend the cable there.
That's the spot where most fail.
*including phone saved by cable drops
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My wife has an Asus portable screen and the cables the same grade, she folded it up for transporting to work, after that it didn't work. The 10 pro one is very similar, just shouldn't be bent at all.
And of course don't use your phone while charging...
notnoelchannel said:
And of course don't use your phone while charging...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Or swimming whilst charging
In all fairness though, this phone remains so cool, I'm super impressed by it.
dladz said:
My wife has an Asus portable screen and the cables the same grade, she folded it up for transporting to work, after that it didn't work. The 10 pro one is very similar, just shouldn't be bent at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have 2 stock Samsung cables that came with the bricks. One has been used well over 2000 times but it is never put away... it just sits there.
It's a stiff cable, never expected this kind of longevity from it. It's taken a few "drops" too.
A well designed/built cable/plug assembly shouldn't fail from simply coiling* it. I've fabricated many hundreds of custom cable assemblies, many still in use after over a decade.
*coiling verses sharp bends to jam it into a small space. I'm not concerned with saving shipping space but rather delivering the assembly in best condition. I also avoid using kind of tight binding of the coil that could deform the cable's internal structure. Teflon insulation is extremely susceptible to this.
Should be faster!
I charge my 9 pro (65w wall charger) from 0-100% in 27 minutes. With the phone OFF.
I recomend to everybody to buy wireless charger 50w. The model for 9 Pro. Is Very Fast and it saves usb_C port a lot.
Atention! You still need wall charger and OnePlus cable to work. When you buy the wireless charger does not come with wall charger and cable in the box.
null0seven said:
Should be faster!
I charge my 9 pro (65w wall charger) from 0-100% in 27 minutes. With the phone OFF.
I recomend to everybody to buy wireless charger 50w. The model for 9 Pro. Is Very Fast and it saves usb_C port a lot.
Atention! You still need wall charger and OnePlus cable to work. When you buy the wireless charger does not come with wall charger and cable in the box.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
27 minute's?
null0seven said:
Should be faster!
I charge my 9 pro (65w wall charger) from 0-100% in 27 minutes. With the phone OFF.
I recomend to everybody to buy wireless charger 50w. The model for 9 Pro. Is Very Fast and it saves usb_C port a lot.
Atention! You still need wall charger and OnePlus cable to work. When you buy the wireless charger does not come with wall charger and cable in the box.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
C ports can be quit durable* if kept clean (rarely need cleaning). They typically last many years and thousands of charge cycles. You'll likely replace 2 or more batteries before a C port.
Typically the C port is easier to replace than the battery. A heavily used device's battery will last 1 to 2 years at best.
Direct charging is faster and generates less heat. High temperature and cell voltage are an Li's prime premature degraders.
*at least on a Samsung N10+
blackhawk said:
C ports can be quit durable* if kept clean (rarely need cleaning). They typically last many years and thousands of charge cycles. You'll likely replace 2 or more batteries before a C port.
Typically the C port is easier to replace than the battery. A heavily used device's battery will last 1 to 2 years at best.
Direct charging is faster and generates less heat. High temperature and cell voltage are an Li's prime premature degraders.
*at least on a Samsung N10+
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea I've had a problem with lint, just cleaned it, way more robust than micro..
They were horrific .
In regards to charge speed. The 80w 10 pro charger is the fastest I've ever used, it's insane
dladz said:
Yea I've had a problem with lint, just cleaned it, way more robust than micro..
They were horrific .
In regards to charge speed. The 80w 10 pro charger is the fastest I've ever used, it's insane
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The micro's were nightmares. C ports will take some abuse without becoming loose.
The lint problem is likely a result of where it's kept. My N10+ nests in my lint free bdu pant pocket however I was keeping my Buds+ in my front pants pocket (cotten vs polyester/cotton).
Recently had to clean the lint out of the Buds+ case. It wasn't properly seating.
No big deal, carefully used a toothbrush and blew it out with a blower bulb. Now that case nests in my cargo pocket too
In spite of no cover cap the N10+'s C port has stayed remarkably clean in over 2 years of heavy usage in a dusty environment. Where you pocket the device counts the most in keeping the C port clean it appears. A dust repelling case with a slightly over hanging hood seems to help as well.
blackhawk said:
The micro's were nightmares. C ports will take some abuse without becoming loose.
The lint problem is likely a result of where it's kept. My N10+ nests in my lint free bdu pant pocket however I was keeping my Buds+ in my front pants pocket (cotten vs polyester/cotton).
Recently had to clean the lint out of the Buds+ case. It wasn't properly seating.
No big deal, carefully used a toothbrush and blew it out with a blower bulb. Now that case nests in my cargo pocket too
In spite of no cover cap the N10+'s C port has stayed remarkably clean in over 2 years of heavy usage in a dusty environment. Where you pocket the device counts the most in keeping the C port clean it appears. A dust repelling case with a slightly over hanging hood seems to help as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly mate.
I've never broken one before, the cable itself though, very stiff, I've broken then before.
dladz said:
Exactly mate.
I've never broken one before, the cable itself though, very stiff, I've broken then before.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have 2 Samsung C cables, one is 2.5 yo, the other over a year, both are used constantly. Both are very stiff, I never coil them.
The have aged well, which pleasantly surprises me.
Micro cables, always was replacing them... like dumb bunnies
blackhawk said:
I have 2 Samsung C cables, one is 2.5 yo, the other over a year, both are used constantly. Both are very stiff, I never coil them.
The have aged well, which pleasantly surprises me.
Micro cables, always was replacing them... like dumb bunnies
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've seen someone buy a phone, I was working in a phone repair shop and she bought the really expensive Sony phone. She was quite rough with it, shoved the micro usb cable into it the wrong way several times, broke off most the pins, literally list 1200 quid on the spot.
I think that's partly why usb c became a thing, so much more reliable, it's design I'm referring to. I know power delivery was it's driving force and data rate.
dladz said:
I've seen someone buy a phone, I was working in a phone repair shop and she bought the really expensive Sony phone. She was quite rough with it, shoved the micro usb cable into it the wrong way several times, broke off most the pins, literally list 1200 quid on the spot.
I think that's partly why usb c became a thing, so much more reliable, it's design I'm referring to. I know power delivery was it's driving force and data rate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some people...
Yeah never liked the polarized micro system. A good sideways pull or drop on the attacted charging cable could loosen them.
It was like playing Russian roulette. In 5 years went through over half a dozen cables.
USB C is much more reliable, rugged... and dumb bunny proof.
dladz said:
27 minute's?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, with the phone OFF.
blackhawk said:
C ports can be quit durable* if kept clean (rarely need cleaning). They typically last many years and thousands of charge cycles. You'll likely replace 2 or more batteries before a C port.
Typically the C port is easier to replace than the battery. A heavily used device's battery will last 1 to 2 years at best.
Direct charging is faster and generates less heat. High temperature and cell voltage are an Li's prime premature degraders.
*at least on a Samsung N10+
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all of them.
I bought for my sister Nokia 7 Plus few years back. Usb_C get broken. She use it for charging and copy to/from PC..
To replace the port they need to remove the screen (with heat & bla bla). It could Not be changed thruu the back cover. It cost almost 30 euro, which is a lot for a usb port.
You can clean the port with a sharp wooden toothpick with some contact spray or isopropyl alcohol.
dladz said:
I've seen someone buy a phone, I was working in a phone repair shop and she bought the really expensive Sony phone. She was quite rough with it, shoved the micro usb cable into it the wrong way several times, broke off most the pins, literally list 1200 quid on the spot.
I think that's partly why usb c became a thing, so much more reliable, it's design I'm referring to. I know power delivery was it's driving force and data rate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is funny how stupid people buy expensive things...
null0seven said:
Yes, with the phone OFF.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If that's true buddy, that's a hell of a trick I just didn't bother with for some reason. If that's the case then I'd imagine the 10 pro will top up faster than a car a petrol station.
I'd great find but I feel like a tit for not noticing it myself
null0seven said:
Yes, with the phone OFF.
Not all of them.
I bought for my sister Nokia 7 Plus few years back. Usb_C get broken. She use it for charging and copy to/from PC..
To replace the port they need to remove the screen (with heat & bla bla). It could Not be changed thruu the back cover. It cost almost 30 euro, which is a lot for a usb port.
You can clean the port with a sharp wooden toothpick with some contact spray or isopropyl alcohol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
C port quality depends on the manufacturer and perhaps model
A toothpick could deform contacts, a soft stiff bristle seems more appropriate... with care.
3% hydrogen peroxide can be used as it will get under the lint and react with it, dislodging it.
Dry throughly.
It makes sense that charging is faster with the phone off.
null0seven said:
It makes sense that charging is faster with the phone off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes thank you Mr Hawkin

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