Database Develop

Seriously this phone is pushing my patience...

my phone has been giving me problems for the last few months now non stop. first that red light crap on the power button...now this....
My phones screen gets all distorted in Landscape mode. if i flip open my keyboard, it gets all scrappy, then i have to pop out the battery and restart in portrait...it runs fne until i flip the keyboayd out. freezes up and all that crap starts...why is this happening? how do i fix this? ive had the phone for 7-8 months not sure...but WTF man its still not even 1 year old....talk to me somoene is this just a piece of junk i bought? is there a fix? anyone else have this problem? ARRRGGGHHH!!!!!

what ROM are you using?
you should make a backup and then try a hardreset

If hard reset or new ROM flash will not fix your problem, then it is the flex cable that is at fault. I recommend replacement and had it done for my customers. Cheaper, albeit a temporary solution is to attach a thin sticky tape cut to shape to the flex. If you have no idea what I am talking about, then it is the job better left to professionals.

as enigma1nz stated, its the flex cable... i too had this problem, but i didnt buy a new one...
what happen is the sliding wears off the black coating on the wires and expose them to the interior parts, its like rubbing the two jumper cables together, it will spark...
what i did was cover the silver part with sticky tape, that solved the trick

Speng2 said:
ive had the phone for 7-8 months not sure...but WTF man its still not even 1 year old....talk to me somoene is this just a piece of junk i bought?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have owned my X1 for a year now, and yes it is now a piece of junk compared to other phones currently out.
Get a Dell Streak and be satisfied already!

It is not a problem affecting Xperia only, but rather something we call 'All slides disease', it affects all slide form factor phones due to vulnerability of the flex cable. It happens due to sheer act of someone using the phone as intended - sliding it up and down, answering calls in some phones, accessing the keypad etc. It does not mean Xperia is crap, just the downside of a particular form factor. Next one on the list of form factors requiring repairs are flips (clamshells). With a bar form factor very little can go wrong, apart from actual physical or water damage. With the advent of large-screened touch phones, as you can imagine, it's the screens that sustain the damage. Iphones are vulnerable in particular.

[Guide]Taking apart the Streak 7 (wip)

Introduction:
It's been over a year since the Streak 7 has been released, long enough that Dell has stopped selling it on their website, yet noone has released a legimitate disassembly guide yet.
Around launch time there was a video made showing the device being taken apart, what makes the video completely worthless is the fact they skipped all the most important steps of actually disassembling it and fast forwards though it till when it's nearly fully taken apart.
This guide will detail out all the steps to take it apart while attempting to minimize damage to it for reassembly.
Overall difficulty: 6/10
Without a guide: 11/10
Tools required:
Hair dryer [strongly recommended]
Very small torx screwdriver
Very fine plastic shim or xacto knife
Step 1: Removing the side bumpers
The two side bumpers cover the majority of the screws. The bumpers themselves are held on by a strip of adhesive tape and are also very brittle. The most obvious method to remove them is to heat each of the bumpers with a hair dryer to weaken the adhesive on them. After heating it multiple times it should hopefully weaken enough so that a thin plastic shim or xacto knife can be forced in from the edges.
Depending on the importance of minimizing cosmetic damage, this can be the longest step.
Summerized steps:
Heat bumpers until adhesive is weakened
Shove thing instrument underneath bumpers from outside edge
Pry off bumpers lengthwise to avoid snapping them
Caution:
The area near the capacitive buttons has an exposed ribbon cable, care must be used around that as the cable can be easily sliced.
The shiny plastic bumpers are VERY brittle and can easily snap if flexed any amount. It may take many re-heatings to remove them without damage
Excessive heat applied to the screen may damage the underlying LCD, it is recommended to slowly heat the bumpers in multiple runs to reduce the chance of damage.
Step 2: Removing the screws
List of screws:
2 visible screws under left bumper
3 visible screws under right bumper
1 screw hidden underneath capacitive sensing pad
2 screws hidden underneath white pads inside side flap
The screws underneath the flap might not be possible to remove without cosmetic damage. As they are underneath the flap this may be an acceptable trade-off.
Step 3: Seperating display from body
The display try is attached to the base by plastic clips on the tray, there are 3 clips on the left side that must be detached and then the display should be able to slide slightly leftwards(?) and then opened downwards.
Caution: When detaching the display be aware of the following cables:
One above the dock connector connecting the display itself
One towards the bottom left connecting the touch sensor
One just right of the buttons connecting their sensors
Step 4: Detach display cables
The cables are standard thin ribbon cables, the main display one has a latch while the two touch ones do not(?)
Step 5: Finish detaching the display from the base
The guide will end here and not go though removing the motherboard or other components from the base tray. They are all simply held on by multiple screws.
Step 6: Reassembly
Repeat steps 1-5 in reverse order.
Food for thought:
The differences between the Wifi and 3/4g models are:
Lack of modem
Lack of PCI-E slot for modem
Lack of sim card assembly
Lack of cell modem antenna assembly
It may be possible to solder on a new PCI-E and sim card assembly to turn a Wifi into a 3/4g model. The PCI-E slot is a standardized one while the sim card bay might be custom fitted to the S7. Swapping out the modems from the EU and US submodels is as simple as removing and replacing.
Acknowledgments:
Graffixnyc for donating a device to hack at with a screwdriver disassemble
FCC.gov for stock photos of the disassembeled pieces
Dell for making the Streak 7 held together ultimately by glue.
No thanks to the other teardown video for SKIPPING half of the most important steps
Shameless self-advertising:
The guide is still somewhat incomplete as when I recieved the donor S7 it was already badly damaged, also as I was working more or less blind it took even more damage in the disassembly. If I had a 2nd one to disassemble I might be able to do it with minimum damage.

-Reserved-

WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.

Thanks theManii
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.

jydie said:
WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Everything but the modem card is soldered onto the board and the board itself has no jumpers.
crockashat said:
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went from the outside as I had a xacto knife and was afraid of scratching the screen, I was pretty agressive with it since it was already scratched up. If you dont go very slowly you might end up discoluring the black plastic (though it's black on black and not hugely noticible)
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals

Originally Posted by TheManii>
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals
Thanks for the information, I will be attempting some surgery of the DS7 in the near future.
when I tried to open the links, they come up as:
You are not authorized to access this page.
not a big deal, I am mechanically inclined so I can figure out most things without too much destruction

Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages

Rewrote the guide, it's nearly complete except the lack of pictures highlighting the various things. Placeholders have already been placed summerizing what they will be of

best diagrams/pics on the 3G/4G linked page
TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These links did work.
Actually both the internal and external photo PDFs have some useful information, and it appears that the more detailed information is in the link for the 3G/4G model.
Thanks again The Manii, appreciate all the helpful information, ROMs, etc.

TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The FCC links work now! Thank you so much for fixing them. Those internal photos are very nice... still I would love to see one in person. I just love taking things apart to see whats inside... but I normally wait until they are dead or defective.
Looks like they use SanDisk for the internal storage... and it is indeed soldered to the board. So, I am not sure what they are doing when they "fix" Streak 7s stuck in read-only mode. Maybe they have to manually short out or complete a connection on the motherboard while re-flashing the internal storage?? Or... with the right equipment, could they actually remove the old flash drive and solder on a new one?
By the way, I like the redesigned layout for your guide. Thank you so, so much for taking the time to describe this process. I greatly appreciate it.

Did you happen to take a close look at the camera to see a S/N or make/model?

I havnt looked at any of the part numbers, I'll make a list when I make the photos to finish the guide

Unfortunately looking at the internal photos again, it looks like virtually all the major chips are underneath the two RF shields or have their own RF shield.
Pretty much the only visible chips are the touchscreen controller, possibly the sim card interface chip and one of the lcd driver chips.
I'm not willing to cut/remove the RF shields as they seem pretty secure, so I'm not gonna be able to pull part numbers off them.
What I'm left with now is a device with:
Demolished dock connector
Cut Capacitive button cable
Missing Flap
Extensive cosmetic damage
Only the cut cable was during the dissassembly though, rest was as-is.
I'm gonna take the final disassembly photos tomorrow then put the whole thing in storage.

hmmm...
I wonder if you would be interested in selling that poor streak for parts
I just bought a unit with a cracked digitizer...

finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.

TheManii said:
finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the glass and screen one piece or will the gorilla glass come apart? I cracked the glass today and the screen itself isn't damaged at all. The unit works perfectly but has cracks on the glass.
Have you heard about sources for parts?
thanks in advance,
DC

The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.

can you see a maker/model of the lcd? also the battery.

TheManii said:
The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the guide, I'll use it when I find the glass to replace.

this is awesome.
been looking for such a guide since long time.
thanks!

[Q] Hardware fixes - anyone tried...

I am the proud owner of a new I9000, the b*&tard love child of 2 ebay purchases. Just wondering whether the leftover entrails are worth keeping. Specifically:
- broken USB port. I have a replacement part and looks easy enough to de/solder. Anyone tried??
- vol down button. Looks a nightmare to try to replace. Anyone tried??
- chip in screen. Not worried about it being perfect but its too deep to polish out and when you put a screen protector on it a bubble appears. Any ideas?
- chrome bezel. WOWOW didn't Samsung make it a separate element easy to replace...?? Has anyone done these successfully (first time, every time), or is there any way to make it look good? Other than hiding with a case which I have already done!
Thank you for all, any, or even no help.
H.

ihartley said:
Thank you for all, any, or even no help.
H.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look at manuals and guides in My Android collections for your answers

If you're handy with a soldering iron and have a good one (not one of those fire-starting ones that plugs straight into the wall with a handle like five inches away from the tip) then the micro USB and button shouldn't be too tricky to replace. The button isn't that terribly important anyway depending on how you use your phone.
As far as the screen chip, I'd be tempted to use one of the screen protector methods using alcohol, perhaps the alcohol would fill the gap and stay there? Probably wouldn't work, but it might be worth a try.
I replaced the chrome bezel with a cheap, crappy gold one from china (and a gold battery cover) and it's totally pimp. The bezel is actually the very last piece in the phone though. You have to take EVERYTHING apart to get it out, it's a huge pain. I ended up slipping with a knife while I was doing it and cutting the vibrator off so I spent a few weeks waiting for the replacement touch button/vibrator/microphone board to come in.

[SOLUTION] SPen drawing in >specific< portions of the screen >without< touching.

[SOLUTION] SPen drawing in >specific< portions of the screen >without< touching.
Anybody had this problem? If yes, you did you solve this ?
Really annoying and Samsung just thinks I'm idiot telling me to do things like:
- Change the tips
- Hard Reset
[Solution]
Since nobody gave a damn and I searched REALLY HARD for a solution. I will take one step forward and help anyone who maybe will have this problem in the future.
What you will need:
- Glue ( I recommend a Glue Stick, since it fixes good and can be easily removed.)
- Aluminum Foil
- Scissor
You will have to crop a little rectangle and test in which height of your SPen the foil will stop the problem.
In mine happened this way:
too close to the tip and the pen won't be detected
Too far from the tip and the problem remains.
In this position all functions work as intended. See photo.
Hit thanks if I helped you!
I did not want to use warranty because I will hate to wait weeks without a cellphone.
You can paint the foil for aesthetics purposes as I will manage to do better than I did
The cropped foil can be in the minimum size you achieve to make it work. Foil is very thin so there is no problems in inputting and removing from the slot.
[UPDATE] [UPDATE] [UPDATE] [UPDATE] [UPDATE] [UPDATE] [UPDATE] [UPDATE] [UPDATE]
After several days I tried the pen without the foil stick and surprise ! It works as intended ! As I said eletromagnetism is tricky so you won't want the foil to be permanently glued to your pen.

TheReal V said:
Anybody had this problem? If yes, you did you solve this ?
Really annoying and Samsung just thinks I'm idiot telling me to do things like:
- Change the tips
- Hard Reset
Please Help !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you ever dropped the device?

Jammol said:
Have you ever dropped the device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes , but nothing that would cause severe damage. I always use my case and the problem started quite spontaneously.
And I don't think a fall damage would cause this problems in a perfectly squared portion of the screen
> I can use airviewing( in this square) in a uncommon distance (closer) what is a oxymoron because I write without touching in higher distances (WTH)

TheReal V said:
Anybody had this problem? If yes, you did you solve this ?
Really annoying and Samsung just thinks I'm idiot telling me to do things like:
- Change the tips
- Hard Reset
[Solution]
Since nobody gave a damn and I searched REALLY HARD for a solution. I will take one step forward and help anyone who maybe will have this problem in the future.
What you will need:
- Glue ( I recommend a Glue Stick, since it fixes good and can be easily removed.)
- Aluminum Foil
- Scissor
You will have to crop a little rectangle and test in which height of your SPen the foil will stop the problem.
In mine happened this way:
too close to the tip and the pen won't be detected
Too far from the tip and the problem remains.
In this position all functions work as intended. See photo.
Hit thanks if I helped you!
I did not want to use warranty because I will hate to wait weeks without a cellphone.
You can paint the foil for aesthetics purposes as I will manage to do better than I did
The cropped foil can be in the minimum size you achieve to make it work. Foil is very thin so there is no problems in inputting and removing from the slot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please change the beginning of your solution section. Comes off very condescending and people do give a damn. Considering that I posted a question to you about it at 130am my time, and people probably just didn't have anything to say as they might not have an idea as to why the issue was happening, or didn't get a chance to browse the forum as yet.
Good hack either way with the aluminum foil. Does it cause any issues with charging the method of the pen? Have you used to pen to depletion and then see if it charges after?

Jammol said:
Please change the beginning of your solution section. Comes off very condescending and people do give a damn. Considering that I posted a question to you about it at 130am my time, and people probably just didn't have anything to say as they might not have an idea as to why the issue was happening, or didn't get a chance to browse the forum as yet.
Good hack either way with the aluminum foil. Does it cause any issues with charging the method of the pen? Have you used to pen to depletion and then see if it charges after?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, been using it for a few hours and I got no interference in bluetooth functions and neither in the recharging by induction. But what you said about recharging made me think that the smaller the foil crop... the better.

TheReal V said:
Well, been using it for a few hours and I got no interference in bluetooth functions and neither in the recharging by induction. But what you said about recharging made me think that the smaller the foil crop... the better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice. Have you thought of moving the hack into the pen? That'll be awesome to do and aid with aesthetics. I haven't gone to the point of taking one apart but it's probably just some 3m glue being used to hold the unit together.

Jammol said:
Nice. Have you thought of moving the hack into the pen? That'll be awesome to do and aid with aesthetics. I haven't gone to the point of taking one apart but it's probably just some 3m glue being used to hold the unit together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is something to consider but I don't feel comfortable messing with the insides of SPen since it's so fragile and intend to be water resistant. Maybe if I had more knowledge about it's structure...
3M glue I can say is something you won't desire. I wouldn't stick something permanently in/on the Spen. Electromagnetism is kind of tricky so the solution today can be the problem tomorrow. So easy removal should be preferred.

I use Gnacad quite a bit and the best I've achieved so far is to put the floating icon in the trash can (long press it) that seems to tone down it's sensitivity but it is still sensitive to the temperature and wether the screen sensitivity setting is set to screen protector or not and of course if a screen protector is used which I no longer use (paid for the gorilla might as well enjoy it.!
Photo's[emoji2398] by Sully using SM-N960U or SM-870A

sullytrny said:
I use Gnacad quite a bit and the best I've achieved so far is to put the floating icon in the trash can (long press it) that seems to tone down it's sensitivity but it is still sensitive to the temperature and wether the screen sensitivity setting is set to screen protector or not and of course if a screen protector is used which I no longer use (paid for the gorilla might as well enjoy it.!
Photo's[emoji2398] by Sully using SM-N960U or SM-870A
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YES ! I just think exactly the same about the Gorilla Glass. I'm not paying for this and covering with some cheaper glass protector. I just take good care of my screen and it looks amazing !
Did you have this same ''drawing'' problem? Excuse my ignorance but... What is Gnacad?

Question Dropped/broken screen? Testing/options?

Greetings,
Dropped my phone a full foot. Now the screen flickers green. I'm guessing the screen is broken. Any way to test that other than replacing it?
How do screen replacements go with this device? I'm pretty handy myself and might even attempt it if I could confirm it's the screen that's broken. I've done my own screen replacements before, but it's been some time.
Any chance the screen ribbon cable could be loose? There is no visible damage.
Thanks.
PS: of course, I have no insurance/protection. Oii.

Don't feel too bad, one time I dropped a pro cam on a ESD padded work bench top from about 6 inches and did more damage to that $7G cam than your smartphone retails for
$hit happens even in controlled environments... get a good case moving forward.
It could be a loose connector.
Or a fractured solder joint. The BGA chipsets don't like it when the mobo flexes.
You could replace the display only to learn it was actually a mobo failure. I lean more towards a mobo failure if there's no visible damage to the display.
Pull the cover and inspect it... an easy fix is always a great fix.

blackhawk said:
...Or a fractured solder joint. The BGA chipsets don't like it when the mobo flexes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oii... Thanks for this thought; I was afraid of something like this.
Makes me wonder if metal/glass phones hold up better?

ToryEarly said:
Oii... Thanks for this thought; I was afraid of something like this.
Makes me wonder if metal/glass phones hold up better?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May not be as bad as it seems...
On my Note 10+'s I use the Zizo Bolt case. Without it my first one would be history by now, if it doesn't corner hit on a drop it face plants. I've dropped it close to a dozen times from 1-4 feet onto concrete with zero damage. I don't like handling it without a case as it's a slippery fish
A good case reduces/lengthens the G loading spike making impacts survivable as well as protecting the exterior.
A 2 layer design like the Bolt provides excellent drop protection. It's important that the out shell or whatever holds the case together doesn't come loose on impact...
For those memorable flying end over end multiple impact events. Even with a small drop though I inspect for damage.

I'm actually in a similar situation. Dropped my phone from about 1 or 2 feet and I have the green screen flickering as well. The phone works. I can get call and talk via headphones. But my question that I'm trying to figure out is if there is a way to put the phone into file transfer mode from a connected computer since I can't do it from the phone.

GrandAdmiral said:
I'm actually in a similar situation. Dropped my phone from about 1 or 2 feet and I have the green screen flickering as well. The phone works. I can get call and talk via headphones. But my question that I'm trying to figure out is if there is a way to put the phone into file transfer mode from a connected computer since I can't do it from the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Developer options>usb settings.
You need to load the driver on the PC maybe too.

blackhawk said:
Developer options>usb settings.
You need to load the driver on the PC maybe too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not the issue (already rooted). The screen is non-responsive.

GrandAdmiral said:
That's not the issue (already rooted). The screen is non-responsive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh-oh. If it was working before the plunge you likely either had a connector dislodge or suffer a mobo failure from the impact.

It's happened to me twice both from barely 1 feet. The screen itself was not cracked. Ifixit luckily submitted it as a manufacturers defect since the screen wasn't broken. The first time they were nice enough to not wipe my phone. The second time they did wipe my phone without telling me. Something about their policy uh.
Ended up going with the poetic revolution case. And it's handled a 2ft drop without issue. Had the Spigen tough amor prior.
They said just replacing the screen resolved the issue.

Sorry to hear this OP.
$hit does happen.
I was using an old htc 10 for about 4 years, I finally upgraded to the Pixel 5 on release day.
About a month late, on my birthday I had it on my laptop and it drops flat faced down on the screen.
by some act of God I actually had a glass screen protector on it and had no damage!
I now don't use a scren protector, but oh well.
Somehow the back glass camera is cracked though, even though it wasn't ever dropped after this..
I think I'll look into the 5a instead of fixing it. It's not much more.

andybones said:
Sorry to hear this OP.
$hit does happen.
I was using an old htc 10 for about 4 years, I finally upgraded to the Pixel 5 on release day.
About a month late, on my birthday I had it on my laptop and it drops flat faced down on the screen.
by some act of God I actually had a glass screen protector on it and had no damage!
I now don't use a scren protector, but oh well.
Somehow the back glass camera is cracked though, even though it wasn't ever dropped after this..
I think I'll look into the 5a instead of fixing it. It's not much more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The screen protector will transmit a lot of the G loading directly to the phone. Something is going to absorb that energy one way or another. Not always obvious either.
Ideally if you have a good case with raised display guards it will soak up enough of the energy so that nothing is stressed to the breaking point.
Mobos and cams are intolerant of high G loading and flexing. A monetary G spike of 2000Gs* can be generated by a fall from bench height to a hard floor. Hard materials absorb little energy unless they bend or break; they can readily conduct it though to internal assemblies... or the other side of the phone.
*how to destroy an IC by dropping it on the floor.

blackhawk said:
*how to destroy an IC by dropping it on the floor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you're saying I should probably be really gentle with these ceramic TD8749s and MD8755s then?

V0latyle said:
So you're saying I should probably be really gentle with these ceramic TD8749s and MD8755s then?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If they land on a hard floor on the body rather than leads they can pull enormous G's. As I got more experienced I was more careful not to drop IC's and to use ESD protocols with the more sensitive chips.
There are a couple of issues with dropped phones The internal bonds to the chip can be broken. Even more fragile is the mobo's solder flowed on components especially the BGA chipsets. No way to inspect those for damage. Internal mobo traces may also be opened. With bent frames and broken glass the odds the mobo or display will be damage increases.
Some of the cams have moving parts as well as their sensor's mounting points. More recently that became more of a concern to me as they aren't cheap and a pain to replace.
If the manufacturer uses lead free solder it's a death wish for the device. No lead solder is much more brittle and has poor flow characteristics making the bond is less secure.
Cell phones are exempt from the lead ban but who knows if they use it? No lead solder becomes even more brittle in cold temperatures. Conformal coating is also needed for fine pitch traces to prevent silver dendrites for forming with the no lead solder over time.

blackhawk said:
If they land on a hard floor on the body rather than leads they can pull enormous G's. As I got more experienced I was more careful not to drop IC's and to use ESD protocols with the more sensitive chips.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was being sarcastic can't be too careful with 50 year old IC's

V0latyle said:
I was being sarcastic can't be too careful with 50 year old IC's
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't recognize the numbers. LM3914, I still be careful with that cool IC