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>>>>>><<<<<< PDF With All Steps And Images Added For Your Viewing/Downloading Pleasure >>>>>><<<<<<
***If this does not belong here I appologize, and feel free to move this if necessary. I just figured the development community is most likely to take this "upgrade" on***
After seeing that someone used Palm's wireless charger on their non-palm phone; I decided to put one on my Droid Incredible.
***This was done to a completely stock Dinc. I did not use any special back, and the stock back gets to stay on (unlike in the other video that I saw)
Wireless Charging the Droid Incredible
**Disclaimer: This will void your warranty, and if you solder something wrong will probably break your phone. With that said I can in no way be held accountable for anything that occurs while performing this “upgrade” to your phone.
>>>>If anyone knows where I can buy that little void sticker that you will see in a picture below, please let me know! If we can get that sticker then our warranty is not voided by doing this.
Supplies:
1.Palm touchstone charger http://www.shopping.hp.com/product/handheld/categories/palm/4/accessories/FB300AA%23AC3
2.Palm touchstone phone back http://www.shopping.hp.com/store/product/product_detail/FB306AA%23AC3?
3.Micro USB cable
4.Soldering Iron (the finer the tip on this the better)
5.Torx T6 screw driver
6.Safe pry tool (or a small flat head screwdriver)
7.Very tiny insulated wires (I just pulled mine out of a USB cable that I cut up)
8.Electrical Tape
9.[Optional] Multimeter to test that you actually made a good connection
How To (Images are of a higher quality (12mp) so I had to stick them in zip files to get them on here):
1.The palm touchstone phone back has a sticker inside of it that encases the wireless charging receiver, so you need to peel this off. Once it is peeled off it will look like this (without the wires soldered onto it):
(Images can be seen in: Palm Receiver.7z)
2.Remove the battery cover and the battery then unscrew the back from your phone (please view a tare down video for details, there are plenty of them on you tube that I used for a reference.)
1.All you need is a torx t6 screwdriver and a safe pry tool, I used a small flat head screwdriver and it worked just fine. Unscrew the 4 screws around the sides and then carefully pry off every place that the battery cover clips on, as they also hold on the red back.
(Images can be seen in: Dinc Inside.7z)
3.Solder on some wires to the USB connector as shown in the below image without soldering onto the pins next to them. This is difficult and takes some time and patience, since these connectors are very small and close (note the polarity in the image, notated in red).
A.Also it is necessary to place a piece of electrical tape over the components right next to the connector (Green box in the image) as they will short out the power and make it impossible to charge your phone if you do not (I found that out the hard way and went back and fixed it).
B.One final note here is that I had to melt down the red phone backing inside to allow the cables to get past the case. See the green rectangle in the image above for where I had to do that. I just used my soldering iron and melted it down, it makes a pretty nice indention for the wires to fit through.
(Images can be seen in: Dinc USB.7z)
4.Now push out the rubber plug in the red phone backing next to the USB cover (this is encircled in Green in the image from step 2).
A.Run the cables that you just solder on through that so that they are sticking through to the battery compartment on your phone.
B.You can also stick on the palm receiver to the inside of your phone cover (note the direction and placement, as this is necessary to close your cover).
3.Note that I placed electrical tape over the wires. This was necessary to keep them from breaking off of the USB connector since the solder points are so small.
(Images can be seen in: Almost Done.7z)
5.Solder on the wires to the palm charger receiver and you are done. Now you just need to carefully place the wires towards the middle of the phone so that you can close the back of your phone entirely (this is another reason why the wires need to be small).
A.Note the polarity of the connection.
B.Also I put a piece of electrical tape over the connections on the palm charger receiver to protect them (not shown in the image).
(Images can be seen in: Wireless Charger.7z)
Here is a video of the end product and how it works:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOMVJ-vmWpg
Also I just verified that my compass is working without any problems.
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
ThugEsquire said:
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its been done with the Evo, but don't know anyone who did it with the Inc.
http://www.goodandevo.net/2010/06/h...rk-with-palm-touchstone-wireless-charger.html
Sounds really nice. Not gonna try it with mine because I'm too scared
Though shouldn't this be in accessories or general?
What are you doing to align the coils? My biggest concern that's kept me from this is the magnets also would mess up the compass sensors readings which I for one actually value.
Wow, you managed to bring me out of my months of silence in posting...
I feel honored that I can get you out of your months of silence
The coil alignment is handled by the magnets inside of the palm touchstone charger itself (the base unit that plugs into the wall). The metal objects that you can see in the "Palm Receiver.7z" file are actually not magnets, but small circular pieces of metal that get pulled towards the charger base when you get them close to each other. So when you have the phone off of the charger, there are no magnets to mess with anything
Also you will notice that there is a piece of metal behind the coil, and that seems to block the inductive signal all together (because I tried to put it on backwards to no avail). Therefore your phone is mostly protected from the inductive transmission.
The only thing that I noticed, is that the touchscreen on the phone is a little weird when it is on the charger, but I see the same side effects when plugging the phone into a "non-htc" charger (before performing this "upgrade"). **I also saw this on my Moto Droid when connecting it to a 1 amp charger, and I have seen this with multiple other touchscreen devices so I think it just has something to do with the frequency of the charger.
Also in case of any concerns: MY PHONE HAS IN NO WAY BEEN DAMAGED BY THIS "UPGRADE"
pianoplayer said:
Sounds really nice. Not gonna try it with mine because I'm too scared
Though shouldn't this be in accessories or general?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah, it probably should be, and may get moved (which is perfectly fine by me). I put it in here because I am a developer and much more likely to do this, so I figured the development community would be more interested.
ThugEsquire said:
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mentioned that you can't wait to see more....?
What more would you like to see? I am happy to add to the posts, but just not sure what further details you would like to see.
nevetsvsx said:
Also in case of any concerns: MY PHONE HAS IN NO WAY BEEN DAMAGED BY THIS "UPGRADE"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I trust your method, I just don't trust my shaky hands
BTW there is a multi quote button so you dont have to do a separate post for each reply
I have a rubber case on my Dinc... would I need to remove it for charging?
___________________________________
Yup.... The ones yoe momma told ya about.... Bad Seed Customs!!
I think you will be ok if it is one of those thin (about 1mm thick) rubber cases. Anything thicker than that and you would probably have to install the wireless receiver on the case itself and remove your battery cover all together.
I tested a thin rubber case that I have (no more than 1mm thick I think) that fits a Droid Eris and it charges as long as its flush to the back of my phone.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Wow, this is amazing, very well done. I think this is the first hard mod I've heard of for an Android. I guess gold cards were a sorta gray area.
I've had my Incredible modded to work with a Touchstone since around June of last year. It works great, but I must caution anyone thinking of doing this to be VERY careful. Experience with soldering and a steady hand is a must. One could fairly easily mess up their phone attempting to do this.
Could you do this with a powermat if you wanted to? I have a few laying around I could use.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Paul600k5 said:
Could you do this with a powermat if you wanted to? I have a few laying around I could use.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, if you wanna take apart one of those generic receivers and try to fit it inside your phone!
nevetsvsx said:
You mentioned that you can't wait to see more....?
What more would you like to see? I am happy to add to the posts, but just not sure what further details you would like to see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I originally meant was pictures. But now that you've added them and I've seen the glory, this mod is really quite impressive and I'm thrilled you shared it with us. But now that I think about it, could this also do USB wirelessly? That would be pretty amazing.
ThugEsquire said:
What I originally meant was pictures. But now that you've added them and I've seen the glory, this mod is really quite impressive and I'm thrilled you shared it with us. But now that I think about it, could this also do USB wirelessly? That would be pretty amazing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the transmission of data wirelessly is achieved through modulated EM waves. This is simple inductance: a changing electric field creates a magnetic field, a changing magnetic field generates an electric field, so a current carrying loop placed near another loop of wire will induce current in the other loop. The receiver in the phone is engineered to "create" the "proper" amount current to charge your battery when combined with the base. In theory yes, but not with this equipment.
How does the phone treat a USB cable being plugged in - will it charge ok, and have your data transfer rates been adversely effected? I wouldn't think so, since you're only touching the power...
Mr. Spontaneous said:
How does the phone treat a USB cable being plugged in - will it charge ok, and have your data transfer rates been adversely effected? I wouldn't think so, since you're only touching the power...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have used the USB charger and data transfer cables without any problems at all. Also I have copied some files off of my phone to my PC since the "upgrade" and did not notice any extended times or anything that would remotely make me think something was wrong.
I did not run a speed test before and after to see if anything slowed down, but as you said we are only touching the power pins, so I highly doubt anything has changed.
So the microUSB port on my Captivate stopped working the other day (can't connect to pc or charge without applying significant pressure in a certain direction) and I'm thinking about fixing it my self.
I'm really just looking for some advice from people who have done this before. What kind of soldering gun should I get (or will the Radio Shack special work)? What kind of soldier should I use? And should I think about buying a new micoUSB port from one of these parts stores?
Thanks in advance!
I wouldn't fix it myself...there is more to it then you think
kusanagisan18 said:
So the microUSB port on my Captivate stopped working the other day (can't connect to pc or charge without applying significant pressure in a certain direction) and I'm thinking about fixing it my self.
I'm really just looking for some advice from people who have done this before. What kind of soldering gun should I get (or will the Radio Shack special work)? What kind of soldier should I use? And should I think about buying a new micoUSB port from one of these parts stores?
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd stay away from radioshack soldering irons. I bought a cheap $30 Weller iron and it is way better. The repair is not horribly hard. The worst part is removing the bad one without lifting a pad. I lifted a pad on one I tried fixing and screwed up one of the pads and a tiny bit of the trace. Needless to say I could not fix the tiny damaged trace and sold it off for parts. But the new usb went on without a hitch with some good solder and some desoldering braid.
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
chrislj said:
I'd stay away from radioshack soldering irons. I bought a cheap $30 Weller iron and it is way better. The repair is not horribly hard. The worst part is removing the bad one without lifting a pad. I lifted a pad on one I tried fixing and screwed up one of the pads and a tiny bit of the trace. Needless to say I could not fix the tiny damaged trace and sold it off for parts. But the new usb went on without a hitch with some good solder and some desoldering braid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you think it's possible to fix it without replacing it? IE Just apply more solder or try to re-solder the current contacts?
connexion2005 said:
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll probably end up using your service if this is over my head, thanks for the link!
kusanagisan18 said:
Do you think it's possible to fix it without replacing it? IE Just apply more solder or try to re-solder the current contacts?
I'll probably end up using your service if this is over my head, thanks for the link!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's virtually NEVER the connection between the leg and pad that is the issue, but rather always the inner connector that touches with the pins on the USB cable itself. So basically no, re-flowing the legs to pads won't do anything. I always ohm through the leg to the pad before replacing them to check if it's an easy fix but that's never the case and the whole connector ends up being replaced...
Download Jig Works But Won't Charge/Connect USB
I think I am having the same problem. I can use a download jig that I got from MobleTech some time ago, but the USB will only connect if I fiddle with the connection and will drop out almost immediately. I first noticed it because the phone was not charging overnight. I was running teamhacksburg ICS and thought I had developed the charge bug, but appears that I might need a new USB connection. Have tried differn't computers with same results. Is it safe to say I need a new USB port for my Captivate or are there some other things I should check. Thanks for the help.
If it's finicky like that then yes almost certainly.
So how would you go about replacing your USB port on your Captivate? or is it not worth trying for most people? One of the pins on my port came loose and got smashed to the outside shell. In trying to bend it back, it broke of course. So now no Download mode from Jig and no computer recognition.
connexion2005 said:
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am having the same problem. Could I get a PM or a link to your repair?
YzRacer said:
I am having the same problem. Could I get a PM or a link to your repair?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could I also get the link?
sebastienhwb said:
Could I also get the link?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never got a PM but I followed the clues over to mobiletechvidoes. Once you add usb repair to your cart and check out you will receive an email about sending in the phone (after an hour or so) and I have just sent one in. It says send the phone without a battery or battery cover and I went ahead and wiped the phone just for safety.
Anyone ever find the link or know how much this costs?
in my sig if i remember correctly it is about $35
I paid $35 and it worked out well for me! Mobiletechvideos.com is where I signed up and they were fast and professional.
Fixed with vice grips
Just did this and slowly applied a little pressure and adjusted for more pressure at the end of the USB metal connection. It's a sturdy fit now and I'm not losing connectivity.
So the fix is to replace the connector altogether? Does anyone have a digikey part # or equivalent?
My issue seems to be that it charges, but I have no data connection. The pins don't need a reflow. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare micro usb cable to splice and check continuity on hand.
Is there any way I can talk with the enumerator chip to make sure it isn't fried, or should I just do the continuity check?
hi
I have the same problem, i searched on sites how to change it your self, but i couldn't find anything
Just check his signature.
http://mobiletechvideos.mybigcommerce.com/
other stuff available from them too. i am a past customer. they saved my cappy
MICRO USB
Anyone else had the USB port become mildly loose (moves back and forth if any pressure is put on the cable)? I believe its on its way out.
I'll make sure to get some photos up soon of the whole operation.
Anyway I managed to get a Dev Cable built to successfully re-flash firmware to the Atrix. I actually bricked my phone three times and instantly was able to re-flash to 1.8.3 and higher.
So first off I found a previous post on another form about making a dev cable and noticed all you need to do is run a wire from the 1 pin (which is 5V) to the 4 pin (which has nothing attached to it).
Micro USB pin diagram here:
http://www.kineteka.com/microusb-b.aspx
It seemed simple enough, but in reality it is a slight pain to get inside the injected plastic to get to the pins. Basically what I ended up doing (and I'll get pictures up here soon) is cut into the USB cable about 2 inches behind the micro USB plug to make the red wire (5V) accessible. Next I cut off the plastic shielding around the micro USB and slowly pried away the metal clips. The important part here is to not break off the tip of the USB cable that is used to secure the cable to the phone.
Now the hard part… if the plastic is clear then your work is cut out for you and you can just melt the plastic to the 4 pin connector and solder. If it’s not, then you have to do some careful exploring, the best option I have found is to melt the plastic to find the 4 pin. Cutting away the plastic also helps but caution you might cut into the wrong area and sever a wire (I did this twice already). Next step is to clean and solder a wire to the 4 pin connector; I used the wire from a butchered USB cable from this project, make sure the wire is long enough to allow for errors.
Finally run the wire back to the first cut in the USB cable and solder or use heat shrink tubing to bind the Red Wire (5V) to the jumper wire that runs from the 4 pin connector on the micro usb.
With a little luck it should work!
My soldering is not that great and one out of the two cables I made worked.
If you have any questions, ask!
Climber Ty said:
I'll make sure to get some photos up soon of the whole operation.
Anyway I managed to get a Dev Cable built to successfully re-flash firmware to the Atrix. I actually bricked my phone three times and instantly was able to re-flash to 1.8.3 and higher.
So first off I found a previous post on another form about making a dev cable and noticed all you need to do is run a wire from the 1 pin (which is 5V) to the 4 pin (which has nothing attached to it).
Micro USB pin diagram here:
http://www.kineteka.com/microusb-b.aspx
It seemed simple enough, but in reality it is a slight pain to get inside the injected plastic to get to the pins. Basically what I ended up doing (and I'll get pictures up here soon) is cut into the USB cable about 2 inches behind the micro USB plug to make the red wire (5V) accessible. Next I cut off the plastic shielding around the micro USB and slowly pried away the metal clips. The important part here is to not break off the tip of the USB cable that is used to secure the cable to the phone.
Now the hard part… if the plastic is clear then your work is cut out for you and you can just melt the plastic to the 4 pin connector and solder. If it’s not, then you have to do some careful exploring, the best option I have found is to melt the plastic to find the 4 pin. Cutting away the plastic also helps but caution you might cut into the wrong area and sever a wire (I did this twice already). Next step is to clean and solder a wire to the 4 pin connector; I used the wire from a butchered USB cable from this project, make sure the wire is long enough to allow for errors.
Finally run the wire back to the first cut in the USB cable and solder or use heat shrink tubing to bind the Red Wire (5V) to the jumper wire that runs from the 4 pin connector on the micro usb.
With a little luck it should work!
My soldering is not that great and one out of the two cables I made worked.
If you have any questions, ask!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Buying one would be the perfect from you or ebay. I can't believe you bricked your phone that many times.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
unforgivenmercy said:
Buying one would be the perfect from you or ebay. I can't believe you bricked your phone that many times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All in the name of science hehe!
@unforgivenmercy
PM me your address and we will send you a free one for the idea.
Sounds great! appreciate your effort.
Nikropht said:
@unforgivenmercy
PM me your address and we will send you a free one for the idea.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks man. That would be much appreciated. Before I do send my info do you reside in the continental US?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Is this not the same thing people were doing months ago to get USB host support? I made your same "dev" cable using an OTG cable and doing the soldering you did to the pins on your cable instead to the inside of a cheap USB hub. This made wire stripping and melting altogether unnecessary.
omni_angel7 said:
Is this not the same thing people were doing months ago to get USB host support? I made your same "dev" cable using an OTG cable and doing the soldering you did to the pins on your cable instead to the inside of a cheap USB hub. This made wire stripping and melting altogether unnecessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure I don't see how it couldn't be used like that. I just did this because I had a few extra micro USB cables laying around and one bricked phone. Mostly I wanted to see if this would work... I did notice just now (at the time I just wanted to show the diagram) that the link I posted to the USB diagram actually just has the micro USB connector as a part. Which in all reality is somewhat easier since all you need is the 4 wires from a cut USB cable and a jumper wire from pin 1 to pin 4 and then shrink tube from there.
But I worked with what I had at the time and it functions.
See this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=997187
I don't think any hardbricking has been saved here...
What you had was soft bricking.
omni_angel7 said:
See this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=997187
I don't think any hardbricking has been saved here...
What you had was soft bricking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't mention hard bricking, just bricking in general. I have another phone that has the
Code:
0x1000
Entering NVFlash recovery mode
Battery is too low to flash
that shows for three seconds and then the screen goes blank. From what I understand that is more of a hardbrick.
I'll try it on that and see if I have success.
cool work mahn!!
---------- Post added at 02:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:55 PM ----------
unforgivenmercy said:
Thanks man. That would be much appreciated. Before I do send my info do you reside in the continental US?
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep we are in Texas!
Nikropht said:
@unforgivenmercy
PM me your address and we will send you a free one for the idea.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This! Can it force my phone into RSD or Fastboot mode when it's hardbricked?
Climber Ty said:
I didn't mention hard bricking, just bricking in general. I have another phone that has the
Code:
0x1000
Entering NVFlash recovery mode
Battery is too low to flash
that shows for three seconds and then the screen goes blank. From what I understand that is more of a hardbrick.
I'll try it on that and see if I have success.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that's a soft brick, but the battery is too low to flash so your gonna need a charged battery...
Alaq said:
This! Can it force my phone into RSD or Fastboot mode when it's hardbricked?
I think that's a soft brick, but the battery is too low to flash so your gonna need a charged battery...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
x0001 failed to boot is a HARD brick
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
You have the numbers reversed anything that says failed to boot x1000 is a hard brick and apparently motorola doesn't fix them they usually give a refurbished phone.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
unforgivenmercy said:
You have the numbers reversed anything that says failed to boot x1000 is a hard brick and apparently motorola doesn't fix them they usually give a refurbished phone.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agree the I pulled out the phone that had a backwards firmware flash to 1.8.3 (the failed to boot 0x1000 one) and so far no luck on being able to get the NVFlash to stay up longer than a few seconds. I'll look into a few more options maybe I'll find out how to do this JTAG fix rumor that I see floating around on these forums. I know it's chasing ghosts through concrete walls, but I have the time/hardware to do it.
Do keep the updates coming if it works for you.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
unforgivenmercy said:
Do keep the updates coming if it works for you.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, will do.
Climber Ty said:
Thanks, will do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem man.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk
Any one know of a company that can fix the USB port on a HTC Raider in Canada. Rogers wants to charge me $250 to fix it.
KillerbawX said:
Any one know of a company that can fix the USB port on a HTC Raider in Canada. Rogers wants to charge me $250 to fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could probably buy two new Raiders for $250! Replacement might be the best bet, as you can likely find one on Kijiji for $100 or so. If you have a local cell repair joint, give them a call, and see if they offer the replacement. It might be tricky since the USB on the Raider (as other HTC phones) is actually a special type of HDMI jack that also has USB (known as MHL).
If you're adventurous, you might track down a broken Raider and attempt a part swap yourself. I've not seen the inside of the unit, so I can't say how easy or hard that would be at any skill level...
Hope you get it fixed up!
The part is on eBay you can always try to do it yourself should be a few small solder points
Sent from my HTC PH39100 using xda premium
KillerbawX said:
Any one know of a company that can fix the USB port on a HTC Raider in Canada. Rogers wants to charge me $250 to fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A friend needed this. We ordered one off ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-USB-Pow...328529?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27c422a1d1 ) and although it required opening the phone up and voiding the warranty, it required no soldering. He doesn't open electronics up very often, and said it wasn't very hard to do.
i was babbling abt this in a thread in the dev forum, thot i'd best do it also here in the proper forum for it:
i changed the USB port in my Raider, was very simple. Six little screws, two different lengths so keep track of them. One screw also holds down the teeny cover under which is where the tiny connector resides that connects the port to the fone circuit board. Once the fone is back together that's where you make the final connection between port and fone.
Slip off the battery cover, undo the six screws, take off that tiny little cover. Carefully work off the entire back housing. There's no front housing, just the screen glass and the fone circuitry bundled together.
Micro-USB port and ribbon connector is fastened to the housing with two more of those little screws. Change out the port with the new one. New part may not be an exact duplicate of the old part: that's ok. Reassemble the fone. Under that hole left by the tiny cover, press home the miniscule plug that connects up the port to the fone.
Put back the tiny cover, fasten back all the screws, and you're done. Port cost me $9 USD plus shipping on ebay.
lowfatmilk said:
i was babbling abt this in a thread in the dev forum, thot i'd best do it also here in the proper forum for it:
i changed the USB port in my Raider, was very simple. Six little screws, two different lengths so keep track of them. One screw also holds down the teeny cover under which is where the tiny connector resides that connects the port to the fone circuit board. Once the fone is back together that's where you make the final connection between port and fone.
Slip off the battery cover, undo the six screws, take off that tiny little cover. Carefully work off the entire back housing. There's no front housing, just the screen glass and the fone circuitry bundled together.
Micro-USB port and ribbon connector is fastened to the housing with two more of those little screws. Change out the port with the new one. New part may not be an exact duplicate of the old part: that's ok. Reassemble the fone. Under that hole left by the tiny cover, press home the miniscule plug that connects up the port to the fone.
Put back the tiny cover, fasten back all the screws, and you're done. Port cost me $9 USD plus shipping on ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, dude, I know this thread is a little old, but can you PM me the link to where you bought your USB port? I think I need to replace my port (issues connecting to PC and charging requires wire wiggling), but I've read about certain ports not working with data transfer and only charging, and I don't want to make that kind of mistake.
projectisaac said:
Hey, dude, I know this thread is a little old, but can you PM me the link to where you bought your USB port? I think I need to replace my port (issues connecting to PC and charging requires wire wiggling), but I've read about certain ports not working with data transfer and only charging, and I don't want to make that kind of mistake.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this? Says OEM so I imagine you wont lose functionality.
http://www.globaldirectparts.com/product-p/htc747235-qs.htm
Thank you! And only $8 too
Sent from my Vivid 4G using xda app-developers app
Deleted
Any board you get is likely to be a pull from a device with a broken screen, i.e. used. I'd stick with the one you have as you know it works.
Nice ! Gratz, enjoy
You should try white frame with blue cover
I don't know what a verizon motherboard involves, but personnaly I "need" to unlock bootloader, flashing etc.. (plus we can't use Android pay in France)
Just saw motherboards on ebay, they look new and it isn't as expensive as I thought.. Can't guarantee that will work either...
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
Any board you get is likely to be a pull from a device with a broken screen, i.e. used. I'd stick with the one you have as you know it works.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for you're reply, I have considered keeping what I have. Although I will probably buy a new one just for safe keeping..
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
mesco38 said:
Nice ! Gratz, enjoy
You should try white frame with blue cover
I don't know what a verizon motherboard involves, but personnaly I "need" to unlock bootloader, flashing etc.. (plus we can't use Android pay in France)
Just saw motherboards on ebay, they look new and it isn't as expensive as I thought.. Can't guarantee that will work either...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for you're reply.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
BigM69 said:
I bought a nexus 6 on Swappa about a week ago and now its in my hands. I love this damn phone,lol I know its out dated but I don't give 2 sheep's. The original owner bout it new about 2 yrs ago, so its got some miles on it. I got a super good deal on it its not a new device it has some scratches on it like on the back cover and the beezle the screen is flawless. Its midnight blue Verizon variant. I have bought a cloud white battery and mid-frame assembly, which should be here soon. I was also thinking about buying a new unlocked/not Verizon mother board and install it. Will installing a new mother/logic board make my nexus new again? I know what you thinking....what's wrong with you're device that you would need a new logic board? Well there is absolutely nothing wrong with the performance of this machine. It would just make me feel better knowing that I have a new motor under the hood, feel me..So what is you're opinion what would you do.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
You don't need a new motherboard, but a new battery will make your phone new again!
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BigDig said:
You don't need a new motherboard, but a new battery will make your phone new again!
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Click to collapse
I thought about that also. There is a website called Newpower99 they have some nexus 6 battery's they are kinda expensive but the reviews are good.
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BigM69 said:
I thought about that also. There is a website called Newpower99 they have some nexus 6 battery's they are kinda expensive but the reviews are good.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the battery I used and I'm very happy with it's performance.
Getting the back off the phone is pretty easy if you use a hot water bottle to warm the back for about ten minutes first. It helps soften the glue holding the back on. Use a magnifying glass to ensure your torx bit fits properly, and that you are holding it inline with the screw head. If it is tilted, you are likely to strip the screw.
Replacing the main board holder will make the process even easier. You'll need a *good* #3 (some phones need a #4) torx bit. Using the cheap ones that come with replacement parts will likely strip the screw heads. I use this set.
ktmom said:
This is the battery I used and I'm very happy with it's performance.
Getting the back off the phone is pretty easy if you use a hot water bottle to warm the back for about ten minutes first. It helps soften the glue holding the back on. Use a magnifying glass to ensure your torx bit fits properly, and that you are holding it inline with the screw head. If it is tilted, you are likely to strip the screw.
Replacing the main board holder will make the process even easier. You'll need a *good* #3 (some phones need a #4) torx bit. Using the cheap ones that come with replacement parts will likely strip the screw heads. I use this set.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes , thank you for the link! I usually use a hair dryer to loosen the glue and its much faster, I'm careful not to get the back to hot though. Thank you for you're advice!
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
ktmom said:
This is the battery I used and I'm very happy with it's performance.
Getting the back off the phone is pretty easy if you use a hot water bottle to warm the back for about ten minutes first. It helps soften the glue holding the back on. Use a magnifying glass to ensure your torx bit fits properly, and that you are holding it inline with the screw head. If it is tilted, you are likely to strip the screw.
Replacing the main board holder will make the process even easier. You'll need a *good* #3 (some phones need a #4) torx bit. Using the cheap ones that come with replacement parts will likely strip the screw heads. I use this set.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you send links like that? The blue link?
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
BigM69 said:
How do you send links like that? The blue link?
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Click to collapse
What is bbcode and how do I use it
ktmom said:
What is bbcode and how do I use it
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Click to collapse
Thank you, mom