Essential Tools For Android Repair
Whether you're looking into starting smartphone repair as a business or you're just needing to fix a shattered screen on your current phone, these are some tools that you may want to get your hands on. In many situations you'll only need a plastic pry tool or something simple to repair your phone. I'll list some of the different tools, how much they usually cost and what they are used for. Alright, let's get started!
Plastic Pry Tool/ Spudger
This plastic tool will act as your fingers as it pries the screen off of your phone. They're durable and very cheap. Usually these will come with a new screen as a package deal. If you need to get a standalone tool they only cost about $3.
View attachment 3607244
Precision Screwdriver
Your smartphone is held together by a bunch of tiny screws. You wont get very far into your repair without a precision screwdriver to remove all of those little guys. You can find a set at your local hardware store for around $5.
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Suction Cup
You'll sometimes need a suction cup to remove the glass panel from your phone screen. These come in several different forms. You can find them in clamps, basics cups and lever tools. These are very cheap and can usually be found for around $4.
Heat Gun
A heat gun is similar to a hair dryer but much hotter. It's used to soften the tape and glue the holds different parts of your phone together. You'll blow this gun around the rim of your phone before you lift the screen off with your pry tools. You can find a decent heat gun for under $25. You'll most likely be able to find one at your local hardware store as well.
Anti-Static Wrist Strap
If you try to work on your phone without using an anti-static wrist wrap, you will explode and die. Your house will catch fire and burn to the ground. Actually probably not. I've never used one and so far I'm ok. However, it's good practice to use one so you don't fry your phone. You can get one of these for about $5 on the internet.
Precision Tweezer
There are lots of times where you'll have to disconnect little ribbon cables in places that your finger will not reach. For stuff like this you'll need some precision tweezers. They also come in handy when you're messing around with those tiny little screws. You will find these almost anywhere in either the beauty section or the tools section.
There are some other tools out there that you might be interested in but these are the essentials.
Related
I'm wondering if I could fit a Brodit holder to my motorbike and mount my N1 on it?
Any thoughts?
If it rained, would my N1 be in danger? It would be real easy for me to pull over, remove it and put it in my pocket. What danger would there be to the Brodit holder, would I need a little cap to go over the 'socket'?
You should be good as long as you tuck it up under the windscreen, maybe right above the gauges. Shouldn't get wet at all right there while riding and very very little while sitting still for those brief moments. What kind of motorbike? i was thinking Sportsbike but on a tourer it should still be ok. Let me know what you come up with because i was looking to do something of the same.
Yeah, I have a tourer, Honda Varadero. I'm not sure there would be space under the screen... Hmm. Maybe I'll get a pic of the dash area tomorrow and we can brain storm.
Brodit do these -
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But they're £37!
Then you attach this to it -
But that's another £35!
That would have to be pretty near the handle bars, which wouldn't be very well covered by the screen when stationary.
I have heard of people doing this though and just putting a sandwich bag over it if rain starts...
A few drops of rain won't harm it, just make sure you put it away if it starts pouring I've used my nexus in the rain before and haven't had any problems
Nice piece, for sure get a shot of the dash area and lets see what we can come up with. I'll start messing with it on my 750 to see if i can come up with something here. I would definaltly want it behind the screen some kind of way. I wouldn't want a bug or rock smacking it at 100k or more ya know.
Right, here's the picture. On the right is the 'glove box' that I'm hoping to get a cig lighter wired into, so even if I don't get it mounted, I can charge my N1 from it.
The mount on the middle left is for my Zumo SatNav, but of course, if I get a decent option for my N1, I can do away with that.
I guess, in theory, there's some decent real estate just to the left of the speedo (the left dial) but it curves away, so I would need a clever way to mount it facing back inwards slightly.
Given that I don't mind paying £30+ for a Brodit holder, which I assume could be wired neatly, direct to the battery, that will screw onto pretty much any flat surface that will hold a screw...
Ideas?
**EDIT** Here's a thought. The Brodit holder is mounted on a ball joint pivot thingy... which means I could attach it direct to the facia and just twist it back in? How firm is that plastic do you think though, maybe a rivet gun would be best instead of screws?
I just posted this in the G2x forums, but I figured you guys might find it useful as well...
I just got a 2800MAH Anker Extended battery from ebay, and unfortunately, my TPU case didn't fit over the extended case back. FatalityBoyZahy suggested that I cut the back of the TPU case off to make it fit, and this is what I did.
What you need:
Generic TPU Case
Xacto Knife/Some sort of Cutting Implement
Patience
Optional:
File
Match/Lighter/Some sort of small controlled flame
What I did was cut the back of the case, a little at a time, until it fit over my phone with the extended battery in. I ended up taking most of the back off before it fit.
I'm not that great with an Xacto, so the cut was bumpy and jaggedy. I used a file to even it out as best I could. I'm a bit of a perfectionist, so I wanted a clean edge. So, I used matches to melt the cut edge, and when it dried it was a clean, almost factory finish.
Pics:
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Final thoughts...
I think that It came out pretty well. One thing that I do notice is that the sides dont hug the phone like they used to... I think that this is because the profile is slightly different now and I left a decent amount of material. You could probably fix this if you cut a bit more. Its no big deal and you can still press all the buttons. From a distance, this seems like a manufactured case. You can only tell that it's diy'ed when you look at it from close up. Also, I think that using the file wasn't necessary because if you hold the flame there long enough you should be able to melt it down to be even. But don't hold the flame at one place too long... I had my case catch fire once
Cases are cheap, give it a shot :laugh:
how secure is the case imean it lowers the damage of a fall or it's just like look nice case ?
angarato_surion said:
how secure is the case imean it lowers the damage of a fall or it's just like look nice case ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It fits pretty snugly on the phone, so it should be just as secure as using a tpu case (other than the exposed back of course). I haven't dropped it yet thankfully, but it fits on pretty tightly and wouldn't fall off or anything... I'm pretty pleased with how it came out!
Hi,
About 2 weeks ago i bought the original asus case for the nexus 7. Unfortunately it is not a smart cover. But with a few mods you can easily convert it into a smart cover which uses the sleep/wake function of the Nexus 7 tablet.
This article is a short tutorial how build such a case without spending a lot of money ...
So, first you should think about a small, thin magnet. I bought some cheap K315 AKG headphones ...
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... and saw that the box has 4 magnets. You can see the small round black magnet in this picture.
This magnet is really thin but its still too big. So, just break it into small pieces and take the best one. Afterwards sand it (in german: abschleifen) and stick it on the case. You can see the right position on the following picture. Thats how it looks afterwards ....
... and ....
...and from the side...
So, now you have a working smart cover which activates the screen when the cover gets opened. Typically you fold the cover to the back which would deactive the screen again. To avoid that you need a thin piece of shim steel. I got mine from a beer coaster During drinking the beer i've worked on the coaster and made it as thin as possible. You can see the result on the follwing picture. Make sure that you put this piece of steel on the right place !! You can test it later with your magnet ...
Finally, after putting the Nexus 7 device back into the case, you can fold the cover to the back without deactivating the screen .....
So, thats it. From now on you just need to open the cover and your Nexus 7 turns on
If you've questions, don't hesitate to ask me
I like this. If I was to do it, I would paint the magnet with some rubber paint to match the colour of the case: http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip
Aleemz said:
I like this. If I was to do it, I would paint the magnet with some rubber paint to match the colour of the case: http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, that's a good idea.
Currently, I am thinking about a more optimized version... The hight of the magnet is so low, that it would be possible to put it to the inner side of the cover in such a way that the magnet is completly absorbed and surrounded by the cover with no contact to the display of the tablet.
Therefore i would need to countersink the cover a little bit for the magnet so that it fits into it. With that solution the magnet would be hidden with no risk to scratch the display. The front cover itself has about twice the high of the magnet. Thats perfect.
But for now, at least the next days, i let it as it is with the solution which i've described in the tutorial. It's a solution with no risk and i could revert it if want to. And it works just perfectly
Here's a teardown of the TF701. Basically it's dead simple.
Remove 2 tiny screws. One in each slot for docking.
Pry apart plastic front and aluminium back shell. The only thing holding these together are plastic clips around the edge. And black magic.
Disconnect two cables from screen.
The size of the PCB is tiny. The front is glass, and seperating it from the back can ultimately fracture the LCD or both. There is one warranty void sticker inside.
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Thanks for this. Did you do this yourself, or are these pictures from elsewhere?
Interesting that the screen doesn't use Gorilla Glass, as there were some that claimed that it did.
Would it be possible to replace the battery if it became necessary to do so in the future, do you think?
it is glass. maybe gorilla glass, but at least it's scratch resistant.
lpdunwell said:
These are my pictures.
It is no gorilla glass. The amount of flex it took to seperate from the back frame would have shattered any glass.
The battey (actually batteries, there are two, with the usb flex cable passing through the middle) can be replaced, but will be a b**** to find anywhere.
EDIT: I'm not that sure about the battery. I recall the usb flex cable being embedded in between what seemed two batteries. but looking at the connector on my picture in the first post, it looks like there are three cells. Now that could mean there's one large cell at the bottom and two slightly-smaller-than-half ones on top of that. That would be sick.
Will check tomorrow, as I don't feel like leaving the bed again todayˆˆ
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not forget gorilla glass can flex quite a bit and it looks like plastic by that way but it isn't but it can break when in fabrication too much tension stayed in the glass.
But correct fabricated gorilla 2 or 3 can flex quite a bit.
Look here: http://www.tomshardware.com/news/corning-gorilla-glass-test-shatter,14497.html
Sent from my superfast Asus Infinity TF701with Dock
moar pictures
I made a whole series of pictures today, which will be added very soon.
there are a lot of awesome close-ups.
I've taken apart my Nexus 6 due to water damage and let it dry out, it seems to have survived. I'm stuck on one thing. There is a small cable that attaches to the power/volume buttons and then to the motherboard. There is a small connector in the middle of that cable that had a piece of orange tape and a small plastic clip. I can't for the life of me figure out how to get that little plastic clip (about 1/2 the size of a fingernail) back on and get the two halves of the cable back together.
Anyone with experience with this?
I've tried to attach a picture with what I'm talking about.
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Can't see the pictures, but does this help?
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+6+Teardown/32877
liquidzoo said:
Can't see the pictures, but does this help?
It's a good video but not what I'm looking for.
I'm familiar with the small "lift up" type connectors that apply pressure to keep a small ribbon cable in place. This is similar but is more like a small fingernail "lift up" connector. It's popped off but I can't seem to get it to snap back in.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very old thread I know but to help others arriving here, it is a flap style connector. With the volume buttons on the left and the camera at the top of the case, use tweezers to lift the connector's flap from the right hand side. Think of a book, just very small. The flap hinges are on the left of the connector module, closest to the power buttons so lifting from the right side will open the flap. Re-insert the cable from the power buttons and press down the flap.
Also if you happen to snap the flip up white piece off that secures it together it's entirely possible to snap it back on if it's not damaged. I have taken mine apart countless times since launch day and the last time I did just that, with lots of light, some ifixit tweezers, and a steady hand, it went right back together. Beats buying a new cable if you find yourself in the same situation, give it a go before, also tape works as well lol.