Teclast X98 Air II impossible brick - Teclast X98 Air 3G

Hello guys i have an air II model HG7N and i think that is finally died.
The brick occurred when i used mirek´s flashtool to update the bios from 2.02 to 2.05 after that i got the brick, but i tried to reprogram the bios with the programmer flashing a new one directly to the chip,result it doesn´t turn on although the process seems to be correct, also i have left the tablet charging the tablet and tried all the buttton combinations to get it back to life with no result.
Can someone share the original bios v 1.02 cuz i think that is my final option.
Any idea of what happens?My teclast has eventually gone to the other world?
Help guys pleaaaasee:crying:

Phantom2332 said:
Hello guys i have an air II model HG7N and i think that is finally died.
The brick occurred when i used mirek´s flashtool to update the bios from 2.02 to 2.05 after that i got the brick, but i tried to reprogram the bios with the programmer flashing a new one directly to the chip,result it doesn´t turn on although the process seems to be correct, also i have left the tablet charging the tablet and tried all the buttton combinations to get it back to life with no result.
Can someone share the original bios v 1.02 cuz i think that is my final option.
Any idea of what happens?My teclast has eventually gone to the other world?
Help guys pleaaaasee:crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
when you programmed did you also verified?
if you programmed with the battery on, have you unplugged the battery AFTER you flashed so that the board can init with the new bios?
is it possible you broke something physically? or electrically using a different Vcc programmer?

ionioni said:
when you programmed did you also verified?
if you programmed with the battery on, have you unplugged the battery AFTER you flashed so that the board can init with the new bios?
is it possible you broke something physically? or electrically using a different Vcc programmer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep i desoldered the battery before flashing and i think that i havent broken anything or it seems like that, the programmer is okay because i have used it with other x98 devices.
Also i verified the bios, so what could be the problem ?:crying:

Phantom2332 said:
Yep i desoldered the battery before flashing and i think that i havent broken anything or it seems like that, the programmer is okay because i have used it with other x98 devices.
Also i verified the bios, so what could be the problem ?:crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
since you say that the programmer verified ok the programmed bios file that rules out the possibility of having the hard-brick because of a bad bios and leaves you only with the hardware failure possibility
can you check on your voltage level of the programmer? the winbond SPI flash in your device operates at 1.8V (i know those chips as i have too hard-bricked my Lenovo Yoga Tab 2 Pro and it had a similar Baytrail hardware) the chip can be W25Q64FW(or W25Q64DW older but identical) the datasheet for this chip (you can find it here) says under 'Absolute Maximum Ratings' that the maximum voltage for wich Winbond somehow still assures you that won't burn the chip is of Vcc+0.6V = 2.4V (and a maximum transient of Vcc+1V=2.8V, but this should be only very short peaks not normal working voltage as it is with a programmer). if you have used a 3.3V programmer it is quite possible that you fried something (an if you programmed on board the voltage goes around, not just the spi is exposed). i know you've said you used it on other x98 devices but you should also know that not all the devices are created equal (and if you're using a 3.3V programmer you should get yourself a level converter so you are safe) and when you are outside of the maximum ratings there's no warranty that it will work or be destroyed. since you say it verified ok it should still work, but did he? you should also check the working area, maybe you broke some small smd device when soldering/clipping
you can buy yourself some chips (i payed 2$ for a 10 pcs lot on allyexpress still have them someplace as it was not the case to use them) and try with a new chip... hopefully the other stuff is still alive

Phantom2332 said:
Yep i desoldered the battery before flashing and i think that i havent broken anything or it seems like that, the programmer is okay because i have used it with other x98 devices.
Also i verified the bios, so what could be the problem ?:crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
were you able to solve the problem?

No man

Related

Bricked Captivate Assistance

Hi team. I've searched the forums for answers and even though I've read a thousand excellent posts, none (of course) fit my situation specifically. I'll try to be as brief as I can.
My AT&T-branded, Chinese imported Captivate was only three weeks old when I first soft-bricked it trying to do an update using Kies (thanks Samsung!) and then because it would only go into download mode, I tried using Odin to reflash back to where I was. The flash didn't take and I was left with nothing; no charging icon, no computer recognition (Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit using the generic Samsung Android phone drivers downloaded from somewhere on XDA) and no boot/download mode; in other words, hard-bricked and nothing working.
I bought myself a riffbox and spent a long time reading various forum posts about using it; I own a computer repair company and have flashed a million motherboard, modem, router and other firmwares over the past 15 years and have even done a Samsung S2 and a Galaxy Pad in the last week so am reasonably comfortable with the process, even though I'm not hugely experiences yet with the riffbox.
Anyway, I imported and soldered the recommended panasonic socket to the JTAG point and made myself some PCB adapters to fit and break out the Riffbox cables. That's all done and dusted and today I used the Riffbox on my Captivate for the first time, apparently detecting the 'dead body' and flashing the ROM successfully (the box and software would soon tell me if something wasn't right). While I hoped it would, I didn't expect my phone to boot straight away, but did expect it to go into download mode, as suggested in the JTAG literature with the Riffbox. This is where it all gets bent out of shape.
I always get into download mode with my Captivate by dropping the battery and then replugging with the Vol + and - buttons held. I have tried all methodfs I can find on XDA but all either don't work or do the same thing, that is, my phone enters download mode for about ten seconds, then drops out again. During that time, all USB devices 'hang' while the computer tries to fathom what the hell is connected there and Andy just holds his shovel and laughs at me before disappearing once again into the inky blackness of a dead screen. The device manager shows an unknown device detected before letting it go again and mouse and keyboard control resumes. Weird. I thought it might be a flat battery but I've charged that so it has plenty of juice. When plugged via USB, there is 4 volts at the battery terminals (measured with the battery out) so it would charge when plugged in (wall wart or USB cable) even though no icon shows.
Like any good tech I went back and reflashed using both the recommended ROM and 'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash) and the phone still does the same thing; enters download mode then off. I made up a USB dongle/jig using exactly 301 kilohms of resistance (measured digitally) across pins 4 and 5 and followed the various videos/explanations to get into download mode that way but this does not work on my phone, leading me to think something else is broken.
Bottom line is that it seems the phone doesn't have to be connected via USB to enter download mode but if Windows cannot load the phone, then I cannot use Odin or Heimdall to reflash it. I don't think it is drivers because it worked OK before the brick (well, not perfectly but it did connect and I had USB drive support etc.) and besides, I have tried reinstalling drivers to no avail. Can anyone suggest anything I can try (shipping it to some guy in the USA is not the answer I'm going for here so please don't waste your time or mine). As far as I can see, I have done everything the people here suggest and the JTAG/Riffbox instructions to the letter but it just does not want to happen. I'd rather not lose the phone and since I eventually want to offer this sort of service in my business, I want to get it to work on my own phone for my own pride and knowledge.
Cheers from Christchurch New Zealand.
Follow up.
davenz said:
Hi team. I've searched the forums for answers and even though I've read a thousand excellent posts, none (of course) fit my situation specifically. I'll try to be as brief as I can.
My AT&T-branded, Chinese imported Captivate was only three weeks old when I first soft-bricked it trying to do an update using Kies (thanks Samsung!) and then because it would only go into download mode, I tried using Odin to reflash back to where I was. The flash didn't take and I was left with nothing; no charging icon, no computer recognition (Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit using the generic Samsung Android phone drivers downloaded from somewhere on XDA) and no boot/download mode; in other words, hard-bricked and nothing working.
I bought myself a riffbox and spent a long time reading various forum posts about using it; I own a computer repair company and have flashed a million motherboard, modem, router and other firmwares over the past 15 years and have even done a Samsung S2 and a Galaxy Pad in the last week so am reasonably comfortable with the process, even though I'm not hugely experiences yet with the riffbox.
Anyway, I imported and soldered the recommended panasonic socket to the JTAG point and made myself some PCB adapters to fit and break out the Riffbox cables. That's all done and dusted and today I used the Riffbox on my Captivate for the first time, apparently detecting the 'dead body' and flashing the ROM successfully (the box and software would soon tell me if something wasn't right). While I hoped it would, I didn't expect my phone to boot straight away, but did expect it to go into download mode, as suggested in the JTAG literature with the Riffbox. This is where it all gets bent out of shape.
I always get into download mode with my Captivate by dropping the battery and then replugging with the Vol + and - buttons held. I have tried all methodfs I can find on XDA but all either don't work or do the same thing, that is, my phone enters download mode for about ten seconds, then drops out again. During that time, all USB devices 'hang' while the computer tries to fathom what the hell is connected there and Andy just holds his shovel and laughs at me before disappearing once again into the inky blackness of a dead screen. The device manager shows an unknown device detected before letting it go again and mouse and keyboard control resumes. Weird. I thought it might be a flat battery but I've charged that so it has plenty of juice. When plugged via USB, there is 4 volts at the battery terminals (measured with the battery out) so it would charge when plugged in (wall wart or USB cable) even though no icon shows.
Like any good tech I went back and reflashed using both the recommended ROM and 'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash) and the phone still does the same thing; enters download mode then off. I made up a USB dongle/jig using exactly 301 kilohms of resistance (measured digitally) across pins 4 and 5 and followed the various videos/explanations to get into download mode that way but this does not work on my phone, leading me to think something else is broken.
Bottom line is that it seems the phone doesn't have to be connected via USB to enter download mode but if Windows cannot load the phone, then I cannot use Odin or Heimdall to reflash it. I don't think it is drivers because it worked OK before the brick (well, not perfectly but it did connect and I had USB drive support etc.) and besides, I have tried reinstalling drivers to no avail. Can anyone suggest anything I can try (shipping it to some guy in the USA is not the answer I'm going for here so please don't waste your time or mine). As far as I can see, I have done everything the people here suggest and the JTAG/Riffbox instructions to the letter but it just does not want to happen. I'd rather not lose the phone and since I eventually want to offer this sort of service in my business, I want to get it to work on my own phone for my own pride and knowledge.
Cheers from Christchurch New Zealand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since none of the gurus here bothered to respond I'll do it myself in case someone else finds the same issue.
Turns out the battery was faulty; I replaced it and succeeded in getting the phone into download mode with both the jig and the usual methods. Then the computer would not recognize the phone, the dreaded 'unknown device' in the device manager. I was using the factory cable that came with the phone but tried a third-party one I had for a Chicom HTC copy I had lying around and this allowed the phone to be recognized by Windows (go figure). I used Odin to unbrick/reflash and it is all go now, interestingly both cables now work for the phone within Windows so it is always worth trying something even though it makes no real sense to do so.
Darn, that is exactly what I was going to say to do!
Next time, try a rotating disc nebulizer, which you can redesign with respect to the principle parameters that determine its analytical performance. The flow pattern of the aerosols you will attain can be optimized by altering the shape of the inner chamber for optimum aerodynamic characteristics. Furthermore, the optimum angle of impact needs to be established using particle size distribution and mass transport efficiency as criteria. Any analytical characteristics you determine will be through monitoring the emission signal from an aqueous standard. The accuracy has to be assessed by using reference steel and iridium samples.
It is easy to construct, and the fundamental component is a rotating disc onto which a liquid sample is introduced. It should require no additional spray chamber and be easy to operate effectively. Once in operation it should produce aerosols with mean droplet diameters of approximately 0.50 µm.
You may then utilize inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry to determine the defect.:good:
^
ROFLMAO !!!!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium
Rotating Disc Nebulizer
-SGA- said:
Darn, that is exactly what I was going to say to do!
Next time, try a rotating disc nebulizer, which you can redesign with respect to the principle parameters that determine its analytical performance. The flow pattern of the aerosols you will attain can be optimized by altering the shape of the inner chamber for optimum aerodynamic characteristics. Furthermore, the optimum angle of impact needs to be established using particle size distribution and mass transport efficiency as criteria. Any analytical characteristics you determine will be through monitoring the emission signal from an aqueous standard. The accuracy has to be assessed by using reference steel and iridium samples.
It is easy to construct, and the fundamental component is a rotating disc onto which a liquid sample is introduced. It should require no additional spray chamber and be easy to operate effectively. Once in operation it should produce aerosols with mean droplet diameters of approximately 0.50 µm.
You may then utilize inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry to determine the defect.:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is excellent advice and ordinarily I would agree 110%, however I have found that the later model Rotating Disc Nebulisers have an inherent fault in the flange valve regulator, which in turn affects the lead mercury ratio and results in even harder bricking of susceptible devices. If, however, you feather an older nebulizer with the updated underhead/overhang mod then even the nastiest conflibulator inversion is easily bypassed. Just for information's sake...
davenz said:
This is excellent advice and ordinarily I would agree 110%, however I have found that the later model Rotating Disc Nebulisers have an inherent fault in the flange valve regulator, which in turn affects the lead mercury ratio and results in even harder bricking of susceptible devices. If, however, you feather an older nebulizer with the updated underhead/overhang mod then even the nastiest conflibulator inversion is easily bypassed. Just for information's sake...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMG, that was some seriously original stuff! Anyone try Googling "conflibulator inversion"? This is the only result, lol!
Glad to hear your flashing worked out, I think the process you followed is a lot more in depth than many of us would ever undertake...
-SGA- said:
OMG, that was some seriously original stuff! Anyone try Googling "conflibulator inversion"? This is the only result, lol!
Glad to hear your flashing worked out, I think the process you followed is a lot more in depth than many of us would ever undertake...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I wasn't about to throw away 350 bucks (our money, which is worth about three chickens and a bag of salt in anyone else's currency) and since I pride myself in being able to fix anything, the challenge was set in motion when I discovered (via this excellent resource) that the Captivate was a) hard to brick (I found it pretty easy to be honest) and b) the hardest to unbrick.One poster claimed that if you can unbrick a Captivate you can unbrick anything, so I had to give it a go. After all, what did I have to lose?
As I mentioned, I intend to diversify my computer repair business into mobile gadget repairs anyway and I can think of nothing more noble than unbricking phones. I learned an incredible amount on the way through the whole process and while just having the tools doesn't make me an expert, I'm happy to work my way toward that goal and if I help others on the way, well, it's a win/win.
Thanks for the entertaining posts and cheers from Christchurch, New Zealand.
I sure hope you tried locating the flux capacitor before going through all that work. Could have saved you from having to go through the whole "Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose" process.
Glad to hear you are de-worse-ifying your biz.
You should add the left-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe to your tools. I am told its use dramatically improves GPS performance, and provides immediate position locks to some position, however distant from where you thought you were.
-written whilst sipping high temperature psychoactive botanical filtrate in my ceramic gravitational containment vessel with plalangeal bracket (aka coffee in my mug).
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using xda app-developers app
Thanks
wwcjr91 said:
I sure hope you tried locating the flux capacitor before going through all that work. Could have saved you from having to go through the whole "Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose" process.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now you tell me! The entire Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose scenario had me stumped there for a while but after referencing 'Nocturnal Urinary Releases and other Stories', the famous Declan-decoding text by I. P. Nightly, a liberal application of lubricating gel in all the right places had the whole thing well in hand...
And as for the left-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe, that's again where I went wrong with a newbie mistake. Sadly I ordered the right-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe and of course it didn't moglify the selindicular quadronizer at all. In fact, it broke it off at the chalisticator and left me up the paddle without a creek, so to speak. Nevertheless, a little old-fashioned luck and a tap with the old thorificating polookanizer soon had things back on track.
Now all I need is another Speckled Jim for the halitosinifer (do you REALLY want to know?) and all will be well in my world (which is not like other worlds if posts on XDA are anything to go by...)
Thanks all for your excellent input, it has been a journey through the looking glass!
well i really liked the "brilliantly" thought of posts about the legendary tools mentioned... hehe
i was really looking forward to more comments to lighten up the mood
pls keep posting
3 cheers
btw i am also stuck at dead hard brick on my cappy
regards
alot of youtube videos provide help on unbricking
...'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please.
Someone know what Gremlin Zone exactly is?
Location in OneNAND ? Or somewhere else?
Maybe adresses or dump of Gremlin Zone would be nice.
Thanx in advance.
Best Regards
adfree said:
Please.
Someone know what Gremlin Zone exactly is?
Location in OneNAND ? Or somewhere else?
Maybe adresses or dump of Gremlin Zone would be nice.
Thanx in advance.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the person to ask would be AdamOutler. You're asking for some deep knowledge in general

[Q] Hard Brick (QDL) Solution Research - HTC One (M7)

Hello XDA-Forum,
i am new here, so you dont know me. Therefore i have to mention at least one thing about me: I never ask for help. Especially not regarding electronic Devices and Computer Systems. I always found my answers without asking.
Now i do ask for help. Do the math, its a serious problem . As i am used to solve my problems before asking for help, i have much to tell before anyone could add to what i already know about this problem (although i have to admit that i am pretty new to the Smartphone World). And as sure as i know that no one here wants to read another "Phone broken, HELP!" Thread, so sure i know that not everyone has the time or patience to read my ramblings (i actually wrote a rant too, but decided not to include it here ). So i prepared a summary, and you can see at a glance (almost) if you could help me at all.
Short Story:
My HTC One is Hard Bricked, and beyond my ability to repair - stuck in QHSUSB_DLOAD mode, no access to partitions, no booting under dead screen. It seems i have to send it in for repairs, but i dont like that(well who does?). I researched the problem, tried every solution i could find - no result! if you happen to know a solution, please read the long story to learn what i have tried so far, and if your solution is something completely new (something i didnt try) - PLEASE tell me ASAP before i send it in for repairs.
So, i tried everything i know of and came to the conclusion: it is beyond repair, at least for me. But as this is against everything i believe in (well not everything but i hope you get the point ) i want to find some other Solution if not for me ( as i need my Phone to be working again soon) then at least for the next one facing the same problem. Again: read the long story, or at least the last part, to know what i am asking for... Basically i want to collect all information regarding this problem and find a solution if possible.
Oh and i would prefer technical answers (even if i might have to learn more to understand them) over answers that suggest "Dont bother, you are a noob, you wouldnt understand, just send it in". If you are about to give such an answer, rethink and do something else .
Long Story (Part 1 - What happened):
31/12/2013: My HTC One suddenly stopped working. Until then it worked just fine since i bought it in July 2013. It happened without any apparent cause or any hint of what went wrong, during everyday use, no water involved, no falling, nothing that i could identify as cause. I pressed the power button to wake the phone as always - but the screen stayed black. At first i thought the battery could be empty, but i checked it only 5 minutes before, and it said 32%... still i thought the power indicator could be buggy. Since then it never showed any lifesign again though. It wont start, it wont charge.
I researched about this, and it seems that others had the same problem, and on several different devices. I think i found almost every Qualcomm based device, but mostly the problem was caused by flashing, so this can not be the same problem. If i remember correct, i found HTC One, HTC One S, HTC Desire C, HTC Sensation, Nexus 4/7, Samsung Galaxy S3/S4 and maybe some more, with the same issue i have - Device suddenly went black and got stuck in QHSUSB_DLOAD mode without apparent cause. Many people get at least a lifesign from the LED tough ( be it blinking occasionally, or staying on all the time, or blinking after pressing certain buttons) - i dont.
Long Story (Part 2 - What i tried):
I found several tips on how to revive a device in this state, most recommending something like "press power and one(or both) volume button(s) for XX seconds/minutes" sometimes with the addition to do this under a bright light bulb.
I tried holding the power button, power + vol. down, power + vol. up, power + vol. up + vol. down, for {10,20,30 seconds, or 1,1.5,2,3,5,10 minutes} (countless times), and the same under a light bulb (i doubt this makes any difference as i already did some resets previously, outside in pitch black darkness long before the phone died).
Some recommended to plug it in to charge and dont touch it for 3,8,12 hours - i did that. i tried charging with wall plug and via USB at laptop (for short periods and for 1,3,4,6,8,12,18 hours without touching it).
At the moment i try to leave it off the charger for some days (the weekend and probably some days after) hoping that it will eventually loose all charge and does some sort of reset after that. I doubt it will work, or even be enough time for discharging (as i doubt that it actually USES power in this state) but dont know what else to try before sending it in.
The charging-led stays off when plugged in and there is no response at all from the device. Except when i plug it in at the laptop, Windows recognizes it as QHSUSB_DLOAD. And under Linux i get the Qualcomm device too - no partitions though. If i press power for 10 seconds while connected, it reconnects - so the power button is working. QPST recognizes it as "Q/QCP-XXX (Download)". Is this normal or should it recognize the phone model even in download mode? I tried to get some information through QPST but it tells me the phone needs to be in DIAG mode - which i obviously cant activate on the phone itself. Other than that no life sign at all( also no recognition by adb and fastboot - so its not booting under a dead screen as someone suggested somewhere - dont remember where).
Everyone who had gone as far as i did in trying to revive the phone just gets this last answer "JTAG, or send it in for repair".
Long Story (Part 3 - What i learned):
As i understand it, the Qualcomm Processor switches to this state (QHSUSB_DLOAD) in case there is a severe problem. But i want to know exactly WHAT problem can cause this? And if there is ANY way of convincing the processor to switch to some other state without opening the device?
I dont know JTAG, i never heard of it before this research, so please correct me if i am wrong, i did just a brief research on JTAG and found it too complex to grasp in one or two days i will delve into it at a later time. Here is my first few-minutes-glance at JTAG: it is some sort of standardized hardware-debugging protocol built into many chips, and also the Mainboard or Processor or both in modern Smartphones and Tablets. One would need to open the device and solder the connection cables of a "JTAG-Box" to specific contacts on the Phones Mainboard, is that right? or is there a plug? (I think i found some people using a plug and some using solder iron... i dont remember properly.) When a JTAG-Box is connected to a JTAG-enabled chip, it can issue debugging-commands and/or queries to check (and/or modify?) the functionality of the chip. I found some mentions of JTAG via USB without explanation, is this a way to issue JTAG commands without JTAG-Box over USB Cable? (would be very convenient) Or is it just a way to connect the JTAG-Box via USB to the Computer?
You might ask, if i researched it, i should have every answer, so why am i posting this? Right, i got SOME answers. Now, i know...:
1) ... that am not the first one, nor the only one with this particular Problem. And not even my phone model is the only device with this problem. It might be, all Qualcomm powered devices are possible candidates for a sudden-brick-syndrome.
2) ... some ways to revive a Phone in this state (none working for mine).
3) ... if all reviving tricks fail - JTAG or Repair-service.
4) ... that JTAG needs an opened device (or does it? JTAG via USB maybe?)
5) ... that my phone is not entirely dead: at least the processor can still (sort of) communicate with the PC in Qualcomm High Speed USB - DownLOAD mode.
6) ... no one knows (or tells) what the cause is (or could be) for this problem. The only answers i got are: "There are many possible causes." and "It could be a Software problem" (HTC Support) and finaly "No one can tell without analyzing the device" (HTC and Carrier Support) - Sure no one can definitely tell what EXACTLY is wrong with THIS device... but someone could know what COULD be wrong (What the KNOWN causes are), and just tell me.
Long Story (Part 4 - What i want to know):
Well... I could(/should?) just give in and send my phone in for repairs and hope for warranty. But i did unlock the bootloader through HTCDev (had no other option for unlocking due to HBOOT 1.44) and suspect, they might use this fact to refuse warranty and charge me for repairs, which i might not be able to afford right now. Further, i am feeling absolutely helpless in doing so, and i am NOT used to feel helpless facing ANY sort of problem with ANY electronic device! It is NOT a nice feeling! And i want to change that! Even if it will be too late for me, as i have to get my phone back soon and will probably send it in this week for that reason, i want to find a Solution, that anyone could use to solve this Problem without even contacting the Service, if it is possible to find such a Solution. That is the reason i am posting this, and here is what i want to know:
1) EVERY Story about devices stuck in QHSUSB_DLOAD mode.
1a) IF they where revived and HOW.
1b) What was the cause?
1c) If they could not be revived...
- ... and had to be replaced by a new device: what did the repair team tell what exactly was broken? if they told you anything at all.
- ... and needed replacing parts: WHAT parts where replaced?
- ... ANY hint of what caused the defect?​
1d) WHEN did it happen? (while flashing seems to be the most common scenario, but i and some others had it happen during everyday use)​
2) What exactly is possible to do in QHSUSB_DLOAD mode (probably using QPST)? and what isnt? f.e.:
2a) Pulling any data from the phone without switching to DIAG mode?
2b) Getting ANY information about the phone? (IMEI,CID, etc... Hardware components - i guess it would need a switch to DIAG mode?)
2c) Switching to DIAG(or any other) mode ONLY using the PC and USB connection? (if possible, how?)
2d) Pushing any Data to the device
As i understand it, that is the purpose of this mode(is that correct?), but:
2e) What data can be pushed? Bootloader? System Image? .... i think some CPU firmware is delivered with QPST, correct?
2f) Is it possible to convert an existing System Backup so that it can be flashed with QPST? (i understand QPST needs files in IntelHEX format to push them? Or is that just the CPU Firmware?)
2g) QPST recognizes my phone as "Q/QCP-XXX (Download)". Is this normal or should it recognize the phone model even in download mode?​
3a) If i get no Partitions in Linux while the QHSUSB_DLOAD device is recognized, could this be an indicator for an Hardware failure?
3b) Does it mean, at least the flash memory is fried? (my guess)
3c) Could i tell if the Mainboard was fried by NOT even getting a QHSUSB_DLOAD device? Or can it still be the Mainboard?
3d) Can i tell anything from these facts (Getting QHSUSB_DLOAD device recognized but no partitions)? other than "its a hard burned brick" obviously...​
4a) Which kind of HARDWARE failure could create this state?
4b) and how could that happen during normal use in a device that is only 6 months old, and in good condition?​ 5a) What kind of SOFTWARE failure could cause it?
5b) while it is running? (every day use / not flashing)​ 6) IF i send it in:
6a) Will they be able to access my data?
6b) Can they tell (by JTAG maybe) if it was rooted,flashed, had an unlocked bootloader?
6c) And the hardware is dead, will they just replace the fried parts? or replace the Phone with a new one? (not really important but nice to know )​
7a) Is it possible to use ANY type of JTAG commands/queries/(whateveritiscalled) WITHOUT opening the device? (via USB)
7b) Without a JTAG-Box? (already existing software simulating a JTAG-Box)​ 8) What kind of Information can be gathered by JTAG? f.e.:
8a) Working state of hardware components?
8b) Access to files on flash memory?​ 9) What kind of modifications/commands can be made/issued by JTAG? (depends on the device/chip attached i assume?)
I know i could just buy a JTAG-Box and learn everything about JTAG to answer some of these questions myself. But i did not find time for learning about something completely new (new for me) yet, and i dont have the money at the moment to just buy a JTAG-Box without knowing how to, and if i will use it (dont even know how much it is...). I will certainly NOT open my 660€ phone, probably breaking the screen and whatever in the process, because of its DONT-OPEN-ME-Design(nice looking, but in some cases inconvenient), and make it a test-dummy for my first JTAGing steps. So it would be nice if someone with some experience in that matter, could give me a brief overview of the possibilities and uses of a JTAG-Box - AND if there is some way to simulate one.
And finally i would like to get into contact with people who might have a clue of the possible causes for this problem, and the ability and willingness to work on a solution. I did find some WIP Unbricking Projects also working on a solution for QHSUSB_DLOAD related issues, but all of them where Model-specific (and mostly for cases where a specific flashed software was the cause) and none for the HTC One (M7)... Although i would like to have a general solution for every device and cause, i doubt there would be any Model-specific Project if it was POSSIBLE at the moment to provide a general one. It would be nice though, if we could at least TRY to make one(some people probably are already trying). But i assume (from what i read) that the existing unbricking projects still need access to the internal storage. So, no access to storage = hardwarefailure & not unbrickable by software?? Even if thats the case and my phone is realy beyond (sofware)repair, i would still like to get answers to my other questions!
If you did read all of this - Congratulations! Have a coffee and a break
I am sorry for:
- noob questions (if there are any left besides the JTAG related - i cant tell anymore)
- annotations and supplements in braces (it can be annoying, i always squeeze in some thoughts somewhere)
- forcing you to read this wall of text, probably full of spelling and grammar errors (i am tired and somewhat tense)
- bad English (not my native language, and... i am tired)
OMG this post is incredibly long. I'll give you a short answer.
Yout phone is hard bricked and MAYBE a JTAG may fix it, BUT the phone needs to be opened, which with this phone is pratically impossible to be done, furthermore you need smb with experience on those things.
If you weren't soing anything to your phone(s-off, hboot flash, ruu, etc) than probably the motherboard is dead. I have seen this happen a lot of times with this phone, probably because of not genuine charger/faulty. You SHOULD sebd your device for repair definitely, I'm 99.9% sure no one will notice it's HTC dev unlocked, cause it doesn't turn on. A lot of users have sent their and had no problems. Good luck!
Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk
Very interested in the actual answer, and the reason, subscribed.
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
elvisypi said:
... MAYBE a JTAG may fix it, BUT the phone needs to be opened, which with this phone is pratically impossible to be done, furthermore you need smb with experience on those things...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats why i wont just try it... not on this phone, and not before i know more about JTAG.
elvisypi said:
...If you weren't soing anything to your phone(s-off, hboot flash, ruu, etc) than probably the motherboard is dead...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, the phone is (was) s-off, rooted, and running ARHD 40.3 + TWRP 2.6.3.3 - but i did this long before it died and never had problems during the process, or while using the device.
elvisypi said:
...probably the motherboard is dead. I have seen this happen a lot of times with this phone, probably because of not genuine charger/faulty...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mostly used the HTC plug which came with the phone for charging. Although i didnt use the original cable, because it broke shortly after i got it. Sometimes i used a USB-Battery-Pack to charge the phone on-the-go. Could any of this be the Cause?
elvisypi said:
...I'm 99.9% sure no one will notice it's HTC dev unlocked, cause it doesn't turn on. A lot of users have sent their and had no problems. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, they cant just JTAG it (or do something similar) and it will turn on again? Obviously not if the motherboard is fried... but is it possible that it isnt, and they can? I will send it in nontheless, but i would like to understand what is possible, and find the cause aswell as a solution.
oh and thank you!
MarvThor said:
Thats why i wont just try it... not on this phone, and not before i know more about JTAG.
Well, the phone is (was) s-off, rooted, and running ARHD 40.3 + TWRP 2.6.3.3 - but i did this long before it died and never had problems during the process, or while using the device.
I mostly used the HTC plug which came with the phone for charging. Although i didnt use the original cable, because it broke shortly after i got it. Sometimes i used a USB-Battery-Pack to charge the phone on-the-go. Could any of this be the Cause?
So, they cant just JTAG it (or do something similar) and it will turn on again? Obviously not if the motherboard is fried... but is it possible that it isnt, and they can? I will send it in nontheless, but i would like to understand what is possible, and find the cause aswell as a solution.
oh and thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, just wondering if you had any updates to your story?
I have a HTC One in basically the same situation - it totally died on my wife in the middle of her using it. The battery was at over 50% and we have never even dev unlocked it or flashed ROMs or recovery etc. No lights come on when charging, tried all manner of the power, power+vol key combos etc, tried the bright light as well, nothing gets it to come alive. Plugging into the computer does recognise the HSUSB_DLOAD low level qualcomm device but as yet I havent been able to get drivers to allow it to be recognised. I am taking it to a place on the weekend that says they have JTAG box and may be able to help. I would send it away for warranty replacement but it's my wife's phone and she hadnt backed up the photos on it for a few months and we have a 20 month old son, so we are trying everything possible to retrieve the data off it. Lesson learned, will be putting in place backup regime on our phones from now on!
Will let you know if any joy comes from the JTAG process
Reading your recent comments it is interesting to note that we do have an external power brick (IO Gear 11,000 mAH unit) that we sometimes have charged the phone on. Potentially we even used the 2.1A output from this power brick rather than the 1.0A output on occasion.
Sorry, i totally forgot about this Thread over all the other things in the last weeks (Starting a Business, moving to a new Place.. etc).
scarecrow420 said:
Hi, just wondering if you had any updates to your story?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, i sent it in for repairs, and got it back two weeks later. They had to replace the Mainboard and some other Parts(plus some they broke during Repairs), i could not get any information about the possible causes other than "there are many"... It was covered by the warranty though.
I dont think they could get any data from the Phone.
scarecrow420 said:
Will let you know if any joy comes from the JTAG process
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would appreciate that
scarecrow420 said:
Reading your recent comments it is interesting to note that we do have an external power brick (IO Gear 11,000 mAH unit) that we sometimes have charged the phone on. Potentially we even used the 2.1A output from this power brick rather than the 1.0A output on occasion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the cause is indeed the power brick, i will have to check mine again (measure its output). It is supposed to have 5.0V 1.0A output only, which is the same that the HTC Charger is labeled with.
Well, good luck with your Phone! But if your Phone is as dead as mine, i am afraid you probably wont get those Photos back...
-
Ok, i got my phone back without trouble - but i am still researching (when i have got the time ) the causes and a possible solution for this problem. So, if anyone has any information that could be helpful: please post it here!
Hi guys! Sorry for my bad english but i'm italian. My HTC One gone in QHSUSB_DLOAD mode 3 times (it's not a joke) and i've still it in my hands
This is my configuration now: (today my phone entered in QHSUSB_DLOAD mode)
Firmware = 4.19.401.8 (Darkbootoader)
ROM = SkyDragon v12.0
Kernel = ElementalX 13.0
PVS = 5
Today when tried to turn on the screen with doble tap it do nothing, screen was completly black and same thing when i hold the power button with vol down. After i plug in USB (it was a normal nokia cable) cable and hold power + vol. down for about 20 seconds (there wasn't LED or blinking button, anything) it's boot into bootloader:highfive:
I suppose (because every time my phone bricks when i do too Undervolting) it has "hangry" of energy and it boots up anymore if i don't give him an "help". The same thing when i had the MIUI with the same undervolting
Maybe is too much Undervolting the reason of hard brick, did you undervolt your CPU like me?
Did you find out any answer?
Where you able to bring it back to life?
Did you send it back to HTC for repairs? How did it go?
Would this work?
http://unlimited.io/qhsusbdload.htm
Dredead said:
Would this work?
http://unlimited.io/qhsusbdload.htm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
third time.
To make a long story short (like you did in the OP), I have to same problem
The cause: flashing newer firmware version. All the symptoms are exactly the same. When I get home from work today I will try these 2 things, they are a little variation of what I already tried:
http://htc-one.wonderhowto.com/how-to/fix-soft-bricked-htc-one-by-flashing-new-rom-via-adb-0154361/
http://www.androidlegend.com/how-to-use-adb-fastboot-commands-with-your-android-device/
I don't have much hope that I can fix it myself and am already in contact with HTC though. The main problem is that I'm in Argentina and I bought the phone in Germany..
You didn't find any other possible fixes, right?
Hi, I Have Same Problem Since A Month With My HTC One M7 32GB
I Got this phone as a Gift From USA HTC one M7. My Phone Just got hanged on lockscreen when i try to restart it, it turns off but did not turn on,no single light is turning on, no screen light or notification, no recovery or download mode. its like a brick piece. i tried all charging tricks such as USB PC ,Wall Charger for Hours, Orignal Charger and rest things, i cannot send phone to USA , i am in qatar, what should i do, any guys who experienced such problem and how did they solved it and, what will be the cost if no warranty. any help ? thanks in advance. :crying:
till22 said:
To make a long story short (like you did in the OP), I have to same problem
The cause: flashing newer firmware version. All the symptoms are exactly the same. When I get home from work today I will try these 2 things, they are a little variation of what I already tried:
http://htc-one.wonderhowto.com/how-to/fix-soft-bricked-htc-one-by-flashing-new-rom-via-adb-0154361/
http://www.androidlegend.com/how-to-use-adb-fastboot-commands-with-your-android-device/
I don't have much hope that I can fix it myself and am already in contact with HTC though. The main problem is that I'm in Argentina and I bought the phone in Germany..
You didn't find any other possible fixes, right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, how did this go? I just bricked mine doing the same thing... upgrading firmware. I can't get it to respond to any of the suggested methods. What sucks is that the firmware update dialog in fastboot looked good to me. Sucks...
mkclarke said:
Hi, how did this go? I just bricked mine doing the same thing... upgrading firmware. I can't get it to respond to any of the suggested methods. What sucks is that the firmware update dialog in fastboot looked good to me. Sucks...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The link to the fix is on page one
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2770684
clsA said:
The link to the fix is on page one
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2770684
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, thanks! I wonder if a vm running linux would work. All my machines are windows. Not sure how the vm would handle the usb connection. I'll have to see what I can figure out.
I just used an ubuntu boot CD when I did it
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4
clsA said:
I just used an ubuntu boot CD when I did it
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes! I just thought of that after I posted. I think I still have an ubuntu live CD around here somewhere...
Thanks!
I'll be damned! This worked! I just popped in the latest Ubuntu liveCD and went to town. My phone is now up and charging. Once it's at 100%, I'll try pushing TWRP recovery to it and restoring my last backup.
Thanks again for sending me to that link!
---------- Post added at 10:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 AM ----------
Done and done... pushed TWRP and restored my last backup. It's as if it were never bricked! And it also updated my kernel, which is what I was trying to do in the first place.
Just for future reference for anyone coming across this thread, there are two distinct types of bricks being discussed here.
The first results from a borked firmware update. In this case, everything works on the hardware side, it's just that the phone can't boot because the firmware is messed up. This is usually fixable using Dexter's method.
The second, and the problem experienced by the OP, is more serious and is hardware related. I have seen this occur with multiple HTC models. Something related to power management on the motherboard dies so that the phone no longer can no longer get power to start up. When this happens, the phone will typically have shut down without warning despite having a good battery charge. I have never seen or heard of a fix for it beyond returning it for warranty repair.
htc m7 pn07110 bricked
htc m7 pn07110 bricked
hi i have a problem when usin my phone it suddenly freezers and was not able to get acces to anything (Was rooted/Bootloader Unlocked/having Custom Rom/TRWP/S-ON).. tried to restore my rom by usin twrp 2.8. but there was no file and it cannot mount my storage...
Then, found on a thread to restore stock ROM via RUU, so i relocked my bootloader and then find myself stuck at everything
When I plug in AC adapter for charging, phone load in bootloader, and whenever i press "Fastboot/Factory Reset" my phone freezes
Even fastboot and ADB command freezes my phone,
I need help please.
Code:
*** TAMPERED ***
*** RELOCKED ***
*** SECURITY WARNING ***
M7_U PVT SHIP S-ON RH
HBOOT-1.57.0000
RADIO-4T.28.3218.04
OpenDSP-v32.120.274.0909
OS-6.09.401.111
eMMC-boot 2048MB
Nov 12 2014,21:44:28.0

Bricked After Attempting to Install Windows 10 64 bit

As the title says.
Attempted to boot from a USB stick with a 64 bit version of Windows 10 on my Air III 32gig. Blue screen came up saying there was a problem and Windows needed to restart.
After that, it shutdown and now it won't turn on.
I had tried the 32 bit before and it refused to boot from the USB.
Has anyone else experienced this? Did I use the wrong OS version? Any fixes?
Lord_Santa said:
As the title says.
Attempted to boot from a USB stick with a 64 bit version of Windows 10 on my Air III 32gig. Blue screen came up saying there was a problem and Windows needed to restart.
After that, it shutdown and now it won't turn on.
I had tried the 32 bit before and it refused to boot from the USB.
Has anyone else experienced this? Did I use the wrong OS version? Any fixes?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, did you solve it?
It happened to me exactly the same.
Greetings.
juanr2 said:
Hi, did you solve it?
It happened to me exactly the same.
Greetings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should have read before you did that, this teclast BIOS has a "64bit anti-install protection", that means the tablet will brick itself when you trying to boot any 64bit OS.
The only solution here is to flash bios with a tool following this GUIDE
Unbrick bios after Windows 10 64 bit (Solved)
Same thing happened to me. I was in a rush and flashed the wrong Windows version. The previous post with a link to instructions isn't helpful, but for future reference and anyone else that encounters this problem the hardware/software fix is not too difficult.
To fix a hard bricked device (doesn't power up at all) you need to do the follow:
Buy a CH341A USB 24 25 Series EEPROM Flash BIOS Programmer.
Buy a 1.8v flash SPI adapter.
Buy a flash chip socket adapter.
Download the CH341A BIOS programmer software. Use the latest version. Version 1.29 was the only version that worked for me.
Download the BIOS file for your device. I used a dual boot version 2.02 without any problems.
Disclaimer. I take me responsibility if you brick you device even more bricker by improperly flashing your device.
You can obtain the flash hardware from either AliExpress or Ebay and it should be less than $10 including s&h.
The chip adapter is mostly for convenience unless your into removing the BIOS chip from the motherboard and into soldering.
The process:
Assemble your flasher. Follow the diagrams on the flash components. My flash chip W25Q64FW is a 25 Series EEPROM, so I aligned the parts according to the diagrams on the flasher. All the parts are plug and play, and assemble by number, so no soldering is necessary.
Remove the back cover from your Teclast device. It's just plastic clips no components are attached to the cover.
All the YouTube videos recommend to disconnect your battery, so it's probably best to disconnect it. I found it's easiest to cut the positive wire at the soldering point, and just re-solder after flashing is complete.
DON'T attempt to flash or read your BIOS without using the 1.8v regulator. You will fry your BIOS chip, brick your device even more and will need a new BIOS chip to fix your device if that's possible.
Insert your flasher into your Windows computer. Install the flashing program drivers. Run the flashing program.
Attach the flash clip to your BIOS chip. The red lead wire on the clip should attach to the dot indentation on your chip. The indentation should have a painted dot, but just in case the they are not in the same place use the indentation and not the painted dot.
Use the flash program to erase, verify it's blank, program, and verify the program was successful.
Disconnect the clip from the BIOS chip. Temporarily attach the battery lead wire to verify the device is working. If all works solder the battery wire, attach the back cover, and your done.
There are YouTube videos explaining the entire process if you need additional help. The entire process should take less than 15 minutes.
Hope this is helpful to someone in the future. Enjoy.
i used these just last week to get out of a Win10-x64 flash brick :
CH341A 24 25 Series EEPROM 24C02 24C08 24C16 Flash BIOS USB Programmer UK STOCK
SOIC8 SOP8 Test Clip For EEPROM in-circuit programming cable + 2 adapters - UK
no regulator needed, i did desolder BAT+, used flashing program v 1.18.
There's 2 tricky bits...the back cover comes off way more difficult than I had expected... Without a plastic spudger or a guitar plectrum it would be near inpossible. Even with the proper tools, a couple of the plastic tabs snapped off. The tablet still closed fine though.
Another tricky thing is getting the flash clip / test clip seated properly onto the BIOS chip. Clip it on, and push detect button in the flash program. If it returns $FF under the button, reseat the clip onto bios chip, press detect again...repeat untill there is no more $FF under the button. Only then proceed with the flashing.
Good luck, don't hesitate to ask questions.
Tommmii said:
no regulator needed, i did desolder BAT+, used flashing program v 1.18.
There's 2 tricky bits...the back cover comes off way more difficult than I had expected... Without a plastic spudger or a guitar plectrum it would be near inpossible. Even with the proper tools, a couple of the plastic tabs snapped off. The tablet still closed fine though.
Another tricky thing is getting the flash clip / test clip seated properly onto the BIOS chip. Clip it on, and push detect button in the flash program. If it returns $FF under the button, reseat the clip onto bios chip, press detect again...repeat untill there is no more $FF under the button. Only then proceed with the flashing.
Good luck, don't hesitate to ask questions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, I did use same hardward and revived with X98 Air 3G from failed update to 2.05.
Initially I ordered the 1.8v Adapter as well, but for some reason the seller didn't send it. Then I just TRIED without it, and WORKS.
I know it's dangerous to overvoltage, but since it's bricked and another new W25Q64FW is just about $5, if anything...
My X98 Air 3G is happy with v2.05 + Win10 x86 1909 now
Hi,
Is it possible to use the test clip to avoid the desoldering/soldering with this method... I also tried to install a 64bit version on windows. Ive seen tutorials on youtube where someone uses this clip to make contact with chip and programmer.. so no need to remove the chip. Also how does the 1.8v regulator fit to the CH341? I cant see any tutorials on this part.
John
PS Sorry for bringing an old thread to life...
Wallace4793 said:
Is it possible to use the test clip to avoid the desoldering/soldering with this method...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is exactly the method people on here are using.
Wallace4793 said:
Also how does the 1.8v regulator fit to the CH341? I cant see any tutorials on this part.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As the person right before your post has said, you don't need the regulator.

Rog phone 2 Android 10 (WW) charging, when shut down, in chinese language

Hi everyone,
I'm a Happy Rog Phone 2 user! My phone current version is WW_17.0210.2001.60_0 and it works flawlessly. One minor thing I recently noticed is that when it's shut down and I'm charging it, a chinese writing will appear along with the charging percentage.
Is there anything I can do to change that to another language?
Thanks for now!
Idk man... But it's a mess for you? Are you often charging your phone shutted down?
It's not an operative problem, just estetic. And I'm wondering why it's in Chinese since the rom is WW now (tencent phone ofc).
Because the tiny OS that handles charging while the phone is off is in a different partition, not part of the userspace software and doesn't require the phone to boot. The WW ROM you flashed did not affect this partition.
This is a good thing, as you otherwise wouldn't be able to charge your phone if it was in a bootloop or similar.
Ok, thanks for the info @onslaught86. Is there something I can do to change language to this tiny OS?
Pandeluke said:
Ok, thanks for the info @onslaught86. Is there something I can do to change language to this tiny OS?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No.
If there was any way to mess with these partitions, you would have an extreme risk of bricking your phone to a completely unrecoverable state. If you were able to flash this partition, and something went wrong, your phone would be unable to charge at all and require disassembly to fix. Perhaps an entirely new mainboard.
If it bothers you to this extent, buy a global model.
onslaught86 said:
No.
If there was any way to mess with these partitions, you would have an extreme risk of bricking your phone to a completely unrecoverable state. If you were able to flash this partition, and something went wrong, your phone would be unable to charge at all and require disassembly to fix. Perhaps an entirely new mainboard.
If it bothers you to this extent, buy a global model.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't bother me that much. I thought it would have been possibile to change that somehow, but not at the cost of my phone. Fair enough, I tried.
Thanks!
Why don’t you just root the device and change the fingerprint to WW? My device was also showing Chinese writing while off and charging.
I followed a tutorial on here for this and eventually noticed the writing was in English one day when my phone died and I plugged it in to charge.

Rog phone 3 (Tencent edition) USB -C port charging but not recognized on my laptop.(Lenovo)

Model Name: ROG 3 trncent edition( ZS661KS)
Firmware Version:WW-17.0823.2012.131
Rooted or not: yes ( was trying to root)
Frequency of Occurrence: Got<HARDBRICKED>
APP Name & APP Version (If your issue relates to the app): no app used.(magisk or anything else)
In addition to information above, please also provide as much details as you can, e.g., using scenario, what troubleshooting you've already done, screenshot, etc.
========================================
My rog phone 3 (tencent), which i brought about 6 months ago. I never had any issues like this.
The other day i opened my camera and suddenly the front camera was not working. I restarted the phone, did factory reset, cleared camera data, but nothing solved the issue. I thought i have to upgrade the firmware. So i downloaded the new firmware (2012.143) and connected the usb c cable with my laptop ( lenovo ideapad 320) , but it did not recognize. i tried both ports. I never had this problem before. I unlocked the bootloader, i thought it might help. I also turned on the developer option and selected FTP protocol and USB debugging. But it still didn't connect. while i was trying to enter bootloader recovery mode I accidently put the phone on EDL mode and now its bricked . The indicator light is flashing when i connect to the pc but the PC isn't recognizing the port ( i downloaded the qualcomm EDL driver on my laptop also, but the port option is not showing at all). Is it hardware problem, But the phone was charging just fine.
please suggest some help
Sounds like a hardware malfunction or damage to something on the board (burnt out microchip or resistor something along those lines) something a cell phone or repair shop could have fixed but.. it sounds like you bricked it in combination with the other issue which your best bet now is a new rog phone and sell your current one for parts or repair.. just because the cost to repair it would probably be more than what it is worth as it would require professional repair.
darkensx said:
Sounds like a hardware malfunction or damage to something on the board (burnt out microchip or resistor something along those lines) something a cell phone or repair shop could have fixed but.. it sounds like you bricked it in combination with the other issue which your best bet now is a new rog phone and sell your current one for parts or repair.. just because the cost to repair it would probably be more than what it is worth as it would require professional repair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bro my phone turned on, and it functioned normally, i didn't brick it, it was probably battery dead, i charged it for hours and it turned on.. But how do you fix a power IC that supply power from the battery . Is it the one in the (picture) , Because sometimes when it charge it gives only the green light and black screen.
Iam having an issue on debug. My bottom side is ok on getting debugged.. but my side port tends only to go in charging state.. mine not rooted or anything. Im just trying to downgrade firmware. any advise?
Firdhaus81 said:
Iam having an issue on debug. My bottom side is ok on getting debugged.. but my side port tends only to go in charging state.. mine not rooted or anything. Im just trying to downgrade firmware. any advise?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try different cable. Been there seen it before

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