Related
This is a FLASH-able ROM sample. My question is : Is there any way to edit this and add more programs to it ? (the flash is for some of the MyGuide 3100 devices on the market. another question : is it the same for my device ?)
I tried to flash my device with this... it worked but it still does'n boot. only the boot image has changed. it's still frozent at about 8-10%.
Here is the sample :
http://rapidshare.com/files/140578865/MYGUIDE_3100_DACH_Inand_Update.rar
Guess no one is able to give a hand with this ?
the persisent registry do not want to go away even after flashinf it. i guess it just replaces the os and bootloader anl does not touch the partition that holdes the registry. any ideea how can i make it delete/replace the registry too ?
the device has 3 partitions (it copies the windows folder on RAM) :
1. The bootloader
2. the registry
3. the OS ( called BINFS - i can see but not edit or copy)
hello,
once i received my myguide 3100, it did NOT start.
it rested on a bootscreen showing some kind of "progress bar".
i managed to fix this by installing the firmware again, downloaded at the manufacturers website http://www.myguidegps.com/
it worked for a few months properly. since last week, i've got the same problem again....
but unfortunateley, the manufactuerer does NOT provide any more support...
seems they are insolvent or some...
could one of you guys gife me the original firmware for this device to get it working?? the one in this thread does not.... dont know why
would be SOOO nice
myguide3100 - arival naca400
Hello!
I have a similar problem with a A_rival naca400 which is said to be a clone of myguyde3100. Can you help me with a rom and drivers for myguide3100 try to write in arival?
Bricked my device using the downloaded firmware
Hello. I also have a big problem with My 3100: I downloaded the firmware attached to the first post and fleshed it to my device. Unfortunatelly, something really is wrong , because the update never reached 100%, it allways stops at 98%. Since then (about 2 weeks) i searched all around the web but couldn't find anywhere another firmware (a good one this time). forumleecher, you mentioned you have a valid firmware. Could you be so kind to upload it somewhere for me and others who need it? The original source, www.myguide.com is no longer available, since the company bancrupted and all it's sites are gone. Would be a great help.
Please help us with some good rom for myguide3100.
Looking for a few weeks and yet I found something that works.
You should be very careful by downloading and flashing devices by accident.
There are different hardware platforms of MyGuide 3100 on the market and flashing the wrong ROM will cause boot failures.
Afaik there are no ROMs available in the net (haven't discovered yet) and MyGuide is insolvent.
Cheers
sdr you solve this problem??? and how
MyGuide 3100 GO
same problem here, i am looking 4 a good rom
OK guys. I know how to do total hard reset registry and rest MyGuide 3100(i had the same problem with registry boot keys)
Download this first
http://rapidshare.com/files/299528735/myguide_3100_total_reset.rar
1. First You have to open PNA, disconnect power supply, SD-card etc.
2. After that You have to desolder this big metal cover.
3. Under this cover You will find k9f2g08 Chip.
4. Now you have to connect pin 9 to GDN and connect the battery.
5. Now wait until progress bar start moving, after he start, disconnect Pin 9 from GND.
6. The progress bar should load normal to the end and on the screen should be picture with SD-card.
7. Disconnect battery, assemble PNA and have fun
CHIP ENABLE RUlezz
[email protected]
hi
Mice20 said:
OK guys. I know how to do total hard reset registry and rest MyGuide 3100(i had the same problem with registry boot keys)
Download this first
http://rapidshare.com/files/299528735/myguide_3100_total_reset.rar
1. First You have to open PNA, disconnect power supply, SD-card etc.
2. After that You have to desolder this big metal cover.
3. Under this cover You will find k9f2g08 Chip.
4. Now you have to connect pin 9 to GDN and connect the battery.
5. Now wait until progress bar start moving, after he start, disconnect Pin 9 from GND.
6. The progress bar should load normal to the end and on the screen should be picture with SD-card.
7. Disconnect battery, assemble PNA and have fun
CHIP ENABLE RUlezz
[email protected]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
unfortunately not functional on MyGuide 3100 go
What exactly is happening with your PNA??>
Maybe You did something wrong.... GND connection or wrong PIN..?
Tell me what display is viewing ???
Hello
My daughter had a problem with her MYGuide 3100, it simply would not switch on any more.
I stripped the unit down and removed the big metal cover (not very well but it worked anyway) and then found this...
You can see a different chip to the Samsung one noted but I have guessed that it is just a matter of where they sourced the chips from.
Chip used to ground pin 9...
So I ground pin 9 and followed the instructions to now find that I get this...
The unit now boots but the progress bar will no longer progress beyond the amount shown in the above photo.
THe unit can no longer be switched off, but just reset. It also is not recognised by Windows and thus is not accessible.
It gives me the impression that sadly the unit is dead
In this type of nand FLASH memory, You have to connect pin nr 30 to GND and fallow with step's .
Pin 9 is NC(non connected) so that's reaction for GND connection is totally normal.
PS. I don't have email notification about post's here so if You can give me a shot about progress on my mail too ([email protected])
Thanks for what you have posted but alas it simply does not work. I found details of the chip too and realised that I needed to short a different pi, the one that you have so kindly noted, but it still does not allow the unit to boot.
This has also been noted here...
http://forums.ebuyer.com/showthread.php?t=11402&page=66
I am guessing that the ROM image is somehow corrupt and even though there is RomUpdate_RD_R01.exe available without a working USB connection, or an image to upload, then it is just a dead GPS.
Ok. So You have broken rom......Last chance to wake him up is desoldering the chip and write rom file on it in external programmer (Willem, cheapest one).
My solution is working for wrong writed registers(but rom must be ok).
Write , if You need deeper details
I appreciate your help. However the sourcing of a programmer and then the likelihood of me being able to desolder that chip has made in beyond my levels of skill to repair.
Thank you again for your help
write with what?
Mice20 said:
Ok. So You have broken rom......Last chance to wake him up is desoldering the chip and write rom file on it in external programmer (Willem, cheapest one).
My solution is working for wrong writed registers(but rom must be ok).
Write , if You need deeper details
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I still can't find a rom image for 3100 go....
You will find him on working PCB of 3100go. This is the fastest way
Thanks Mice
Mice20 said:
You will find him on working PCB of 3100go. This is the fastest way
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the fast reply, unfortunately I don't have another one....
If you have a hex file or someting like that and you can post it please do it.
Now I try to find a jtag solution.
This guide is a work in progress.
Please be patient as I work on completing this guide, as I work full time and am a full time student.
You can find the original discussion thread for this topic here!
DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any damage to yourself, your Kindle, or other property incurred by following any or all parts of this guide. Proceed at your own risk.
WARNING: Do not attempt to follow this guide unless you are fairly familiar with soldering and Linux commands. Serious harm to yourself, your Kindle, and/or your computer can result if you are not careful.
Q. What devices will this work on?
A. This how-to works for the Kindle Fire 2 only. (There are other methods of restoring a bricked original Kindle Fire; refer to the FAQ for that device)
Q. Why won't this work for KFHD7"/8.9"?
A. The motherboard designs for the KFHDs are different. That means that the entire process of finding all the solder points for those motherboards (including desoldering the e-MMC) has to be repeated before the same method for fixing hard-bricks on them can be used. (Note: If you have a hard-bricked or otherwise broken KFHD7"/8.9" that you'd be willing to donate for this endeavor, please PM me)
Q. Under what circumstance does will this guide help?
A. This guide is intended to restore the KF2 that was previously thought to be beyond restoring, or hard-bricked, as a result of flashing the incorrect image to your ROM. This means a KF2 that does not display anything on the screen and does not light up the power LED when the power button is pressed (i.e. it appears dead even after charging). If your KF2 still shows signs of life but is not working, please try one of the other methods of repairing it. Might I suggest Q16-23 of the FAQ?
Q. Is there any way to do this without all the soldering?
A. At this time, no; however, I am in the process of developing a device to do this that does not require soldering.
Q. I don't feel comfortable doing this myself. Can I have you fix it for me?
A. Send me a PM and we'll work out the details.
Required materials:
Hard-bricked Kindle Fire 2
USB SD card reader (one with only one slot, NOT the multi-card readers)*
30 AWG wire (I found mine at Radioshack)
solder (the smaller the diameter, the better)
soldering iron (pencil iron will work, but soldering station is better)
plastic opening tools
a small Phillips screwdriver (mine came with my plastic opening tool kit)
a computer with Linux (a live CD of a distro should theoretically work, but I used an installed copy of Ubuntu 13.04)
*For cheap card readers near me (literally three blocks up the road), I found this one from Microcenter and this one from Tigerdirect. Go with whatever is cheapest for you.
Suggested materials:
Helping hands tool
A good light source
Magnifying glass/magnifying visor (I used a x7 magnifying glass with built-in light)
Desoldering pump/wick (in case you mess something up, need to desolder the SD card reader, or want to clean up your board after you're done)
Lots of patience
Preparing the motherboard
Warning: Take care to protect sensitive electrical components (like the ones found on your KF2) from ESD.
1. Remove the motherboard from the Kindle. If you need directions on how to do that, please refer to ifixit (stop at step 8). Note: You do not need to remove the battery from the case.
2. Take a moment and familiarize yourself with the layout of the motherboard.(Solder points are marked. Keep these images handy for reference)
Front:
(Click for larger image)
This is just an FYI (not required to do this): When you first take out the motherboard, the e-MMC will be covered by a piece of grey foam. Underneath that is a sticker that covers the chip information.
Back:
(Click for larger image)
Note: For CMD and DAT1, you will be soldering to the marked leads of the SMD components. All other soldering will be to the marked copper pads.3. Place it to the side in a safe location
Preparing the SD card reader
There are a few different variations when it comes to SD card readers. In addition to through-hole vs. SMD, there may be variation in the location of the card-detect switch pins. All other pins (DAT0-3, Vcc, GND, CMD, and CLK) will always have the same location relative to each other.
Examples:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
SMD with card detect switch at the top
Through-hole with card detect switch in the middle (Front) (card connector removed)
Through-hole with card detect switch in the middle (Back)
1. Remove your reader from the package.
It should look something like this:
2. Remove the plastic housing and any metal shielding from the SD card connector.
You're left with this:
3.There are two ways to proceed from here: (a) For through-hole, use the pads (b)For through-hole or SMD, solder directly to the connector pins.
4. (a) Carefully desolder all the pins from the card connector. (b) Skip this step.
5. Cut your wire. You will need 10 pieces. 9 of them need to be long enough to get from the MB to the card reader (I went with about 6-8 inches) with 6 of them the same length (for DAT0-1, CMD, and CLK to minimize chance of signals arriving at different times). The last wire should be long enough to jump the card detect switch (CD_SW) to ground (GND).
6. Carefully strip about 0.5-1 cm of the insulation each end of all the wires.
7. (Refer to example images at beginning of post) Take your small wire and jump CD_SW to GND by (a) placing the wire through CD_SW and GND and soldering or (b) soldering one end of the wire to the CD_SW connector pin and the other to a GND connector pin.
8. (Refer to example images at beginning of post) Take your 6 wires of equal length and solder one each to DAT0-3, CMD, and CLK (a) through the hole or (b) to the card connector pins.
9. (Refer to example images at beginning of post) Take one of the remaining wires and solder it to GND by (a) or (b) as above.
10. (Refer to example images at beginning of post) Take your last two remaining wires and twist one end of the exposed wire together. Solder this end to Vcc by (a) or (b) as above. These will be used to connect to Vcc and VccQ on the motherboard.
11. Your finished product should look something like this (for a):
Front:
Back:
(Blank)
Connecting it all together
Soldering to the copper pads is tricky. The solder doesn't like to stick, and when it does, you have to be very careful not to move the wire until it cools. Also, if you have to attempt to solder the same pad more than once, lacquer tends to build up. Keep something handy (like tweezers) to scrape it off if it gets in the way
Reference photos:
Front:
(Click for larger image)
Back:
(Click for larger image)
Card reader:
1. Solder the wire from the card reader to the corresponding pads as marked in the images above. Using the helping hands tool to hold the board and the reader makes things much easier. It's probably easiest if you solder DAT0 on the front first, then turn the board over and with audio jack, etc. on the left, solder each spot from top to bottom, left to right. Note: Solder one Vcc wire from the card reader to one Vcc pad on the board and the other to VccQ.
Once finished, it should look like this:
Next Step?
Wanna try this with my bricked kf 2nd gen. But I need to research more on it first...
On what state will the tablet be when you plug in the finished product to the computer?
can you please put the next steps ?
Thanks!
What's next??
Hello there... I was reading your steps to repair my dead KF2 on your post... and I noticed you said on the requirements that we need a Linux PC, preferably with Ubuntu, to proceed... but There are no more steps after you show how to solder.
Can you tell me, please, What's next? What happens when I connect the logic board with the soldered wires to the SD adapter, to the linux PC? how do I revive it?
Please, help me... I want to give that Kindle as a gift to someone on my church who needs it, And I want to try to fix it!!
Thanks for your time and sharing your knowledge. God bless you.
-----
kurohyou said:
This guide is a work in progress.
Please be patient as I work on completing this guide, as I work full time and am a full time student.
You can find the original discussion thread for this topic here!
DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any damage to yourself, your Kindle, or other property incurred by following any or all parts of this guide. Proceed at your own risk.
WARNING: Do not attempt to follow this guide unless you are fairly familiar with soldering and Linux commands. Serious harm to yourself, your Kindle, and/or your computer can result if you are not careful.
Q. What devices will this work on?
A. This how-to works for the Kindle Fire 2 only. (There are other methods of restoring a bricked original Kindle Fire; refer to the FAQ for that device)
Q. Why won't this work for KFHD7"/8.9"?
A. The motherboard designs for the KFHDs are different. That means that the entire process of finding all the solder points for those motherboards (including desoldering the e-MMC) has to be repeated before the same method for fixing hard-bricks on them can be used. (Note: If you have a hard-bricked or otherwise broken KFHD7"/8.9" that you'd be willing to donate for this endeavor, please PM me)
Q. Under what circumstance does will this guide help?
A. This guide is intended to restore the KF2 that was previously thought to be beyond restoring, or hard-bricked, as a result of flashing the incorrect image to your ROM. This means a KF2 that does not display anything on the screen and does not light up the power LED when the power button is pressed (i.e. it appears dead even after charging). If your KF2 still shows signs of life but is not working, please try one of the other methods of repairing it. Might I suggest Q16-23 of the FAQ?
Q. Is there any way to do this without all the soldering?
A. At this time, no; however, I am in the process of developing a device to do this that does not require soldering.
Q. I don't feel comfortable doing this myself. Can I have you fix it for me?
A. Send me a PM and we'll work out the details.
Required materials:
Hard-bricked Kindle Fire 2
USB SD card reader (one with only one slot, NOT the multi-card readers)*
30 AWG wire (I found mine at Radioshack)
solder (the smaller the diameter, the better)
soldering iron (pencil iron will work, but soldering station is better)
plastic opening tools
a small Phillips screwdriver (mine came with my plastic opening tool kit)
a computer with Linux (a live CD of a distro should theoretically work, but I used an installed copy of Ubuntu 13.04)
*For cheap card readers near me (literally three blocks up the road), I found this one from Microcenter and this one from Tigerdirect. Go with whatever is cheapest for you.
Suggested materials:
Helping hands tool
A good light source
Magnifying glass/magnifying visor (I used a x7 magnifying glass with built-in light)
Desoldering pump/wick (in case you mess something up, need to desolder the SD card reader, or want to clean up your board after you're done)
Lots of patience
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once you have a Linux PC up and running or even just a Ubuntu live is will do, download the boot loader for your kindle, I don't have links at the moment, but one place you can get it is download the latest official update for your device from Amazon's support section, I am pretty sure Linux should automatically recognize it as a zip file even though it ends in .bin, if not just changes the end to .zip. Extract the file called u-boot.bin to wherever you find convenient, for my convenience I will say extract to the home folder( the terminals default to that directory so it makes things simpler). Now plug in the USB adapter you have soldered to the kindle. If it mounts anything I suggest unmounting it just to be on the over protective side. You will now need to determine the device path that is given to the kindles emmc, easiest way is to check in gparted or disks, or by running the mount command from a terminal if you haven't yet unmounted the other partitions and know what you are looking for. Once it has been determined you should run a command similar to this in a terminal:
Code:
sudo dd bs=1 if=u-boot.bin of=/dev/sdb2
take note to replace sdb2 with the device name your PC assigned to the device, but remember to leave the 2 so it only flashes that to the second partition instead of over the entire emmc. Once you run this and it succeeds, you should eject the device or just shut the PC down, disconnect your wires and try powering on the kindle. @kurohyou did I leave anything important out? I will probably make this formatted better later on when I am actually on a PC.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire HD running CM10.1 Tablet UI using xda-developers app
Looks good to me. The semester is almost over and someone is sending me a KF2 to fix, so once it arrives, I'll go through and take screenshots of the process and finish up the guide. At that time, I'll ask the mods to clean up this topic (delete posts) so it flows well.
super！
but if you know how the AMAZON lab126 guys fix it you will know it‘s very easy
y.
Yes but they have signed files we don't have access to that are necessary for reflashing it with usbboot/aboot or w/e that utility is called.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire HD running CM10.1 Tablet UI using xda-developers app
Has anyone managed to write up a walk through on exactly what to do once you've gotten the board soldered up and ready to go? I have Linux up and running, and the soldering shouldn't take more than 20 minutes, but I'm holding off on doing this until I know I can do the software side of things. I am a complete noob with linux, and don't want to make things worse by making a mistake. Part of me really wants to try this out but not knowing what to do after I'm wired up keeps me from trying this.
Some great news!
First off, a very big thank you to @kurohyou and @stunts513 for all their efforts, all their suggestions in all their posts helped me get to the end, thank you guys!
Right, here's my story, had a Kindle Fire 2 flashed with the wrong bootloader a few months back, forgot about the device till 2 days back when i came across the
original post by kurohyou, with the idea of getting direct access to the eMMC and flashing the bootloader, then followed up on his post with the how to's, decided to
give it a shot.
Started off with the soldering on the Kindle motherboard, it was a pain, but what helped in attaching the solder to the points was a good paste, i used solder paste on
the points, then dabbed a little solder with flux on the tip of the soldering iron and kept the tip on the point for a few seconds at a time, sometimes more than once,
once all the points were tinted, i tinted the ends of the cables i was going to use with the same solder with flux, the cables i used were from an old HDMI cable which
i stripped up, they were thin and flexible. For the SD card reader, i used one similar to kurohyou's, except i didn't have the points on the other side, so i soldered
the cables directly to the legs of the SD reader slot without removing the slot, also, i did not short ground and CD_SW, instead i just left a blank SD adapter in the
slot, which did the trick.
Now once everything was soldered on, i used the ubuntu-12.04.3-desktop-i386.iso to create a UBUNTU live CD and booted from that, once in UBUNTU attached the SD reader
and voila, eMMC detected! Now to get to the flashing of the bootloader, i read a numerous amount of posts suggesting to flash the u-boot.bin file from the original
Kindle firmware, and the suggested version was the 10.2.4, so i downloaded the firmware (in .bin format) from the amazon site, right clicked on the file, open with,
used Winrar, there extracted the u-boot.bin file. To flash the bootloader i used the dd command suggested by stunts513, which was:
sudo dd bs=1 if=u-boot.bin of=/dev/sdb2
The first time i ran that command, i had an input/output error, i ran the command another 3 or 4 times till it flashed successfully, i got an error message when
ejecting the SD, so shut down the machine, detached the SD reader and connected up the Kindle, no life, tried usb, fastboot and mains charger, no signs of life.
Disconnected everything and attached the SD reader again, now UBUNTU recognized the eMMC, but as 1 disk with no partitions! So thought ok, il reboot the system and try
again, tried all the different USB slots i had on the laptop, all giving the same result, so i left the SD reader out for a few minutes, while i figured out what to do
next, then when i re-attached it, it picked it up again with all the correct partitions, however, nothing was mounted, i read stunts513's suggestion of unmounting to
be safe, so i though that was fine, ran the dd command again and same thing, input/output error, tried a few times and it flashed successfully, again detached and
connected up the Kindle, no signs of life, didn't really know what to do next, decided to ponder on the Kindle folder i had on my drive, with the backups, there i found 'otter2-u-boot-prod-10.2.4' which was 227KB, the same size as u-boot.bin, thought lets give this file a go, again reconnected up till all the partitions were detected correctly and ran the dd command with otter2-u-boot-prod-10.2.4.bin, detached everything and connect the Kindle up, plugged in the USB and got an orange light!
A few people got the orange light without the kindle actually booting the OS, so never had my hopes up too high, let the kindle charge for a few mins and then it started up, stuck on the kindle logo boot loop, as i started reading the forum, i came across a post about the kindle boot loop, where stunts513 suggested flashing via fast boot, i attached the kindle to the fast boot cable and was waiting for the laptop to recognize the kindle, suddenly i get a blank screen, i left it like that for a few minutes then decided to press the power button, no response, i kept the power button pressed in till i saw the kindle logo again, took a few seconds but this time, it booted the OS! I don't know if the fast boot cable had anything to do with that, im sure stunts513 and kurohyou will be able to shed some more light on that.
My apologies for the long post, but im trying to put down as much detail as possible to help all the other guys with the bricked Kindle fire 2's, im also attaching the boot file i used.
Again, a big thank you to kurohyou and stunts513 for all their efforts!
Bit of an interesting one if anyone could try and shed some light onto it. Connect everything up as usual but with VccQ every time it is connected something must short and fries the SD card reader, without VccQ connected the light on the SD card adaptor flashes continually but it's not recognised by Ubuntu.
Thank you!
I just wanted to drop by and say a HUGE thank you to @kurohyou for starting this thread and for all who have contributed to it
BEFORE I CONTINUE, PLEASE BE MINDFUL THAT THE PARTITION NUMBER/DESIGNATION BEING SHOWN AND WRITTEN TO IN THIS THREAD, BY MYSELF AND OTHER PEOPLE, WILL NOT NECESSARILY BE THE SAME WHEN YOU CONNECT YOUR KINDLE eMMC TO YOUR SD CARD READER AND FLASH THE CORRECT BOOTLOADER, TO DE-BRICK IT. LINUX ASSIGNS DIFFERENT PARTITION NODES BASED ON VARIOUS CRITERIA, SO YOU MUST ALWAYS ENSURE YOU ARE "dd'ing" TO THE CORRECT PARTITION, OTHERWISE YOU COULD BE WRITING TO *ANY* DEVICE ON YOUR PC, POSSIBLY YOUR MULTIPLE TERABYTE FAMILY PHOTO ARCHIVE... ARGH! DO *ALWAYS* ENSURE YOU ARE WRITING TO A 256KB PARTITION - REFER TO MY PHOTOS, BELOW; THEY SHOW A PARTITION LISTING AND WHERE THE BOOTLOADER PARTITION IS, AND IN WHICH ORDER THE PARTITIONS ARE.
I bought a pristine, boxed *DEMO* Kindle (2? Gen 2? "Otter2" anyway the 7" one, 600x1024) from eBay for just £6.99, and when I tried to flash the bootloader with my fastboot cable, as soon as I rebooted... it DIED. Being a long time qualified electronics engineer, this kind of disassembley is all part of life for me, and doesn't phase me one iota, but the soldering of wires is a VERY precise and delicate operation - PROCEED VERY VERY SLOWLY, DOUBLE CHECK AND THEN AGAIN, ALL YOUR PIN DESIGNATIONS AND SOLDER JOINTS OR THERE'LL BE TEARS BEFORE BEDTIME!
Anyhow, I simply booted into 32 bit Ubuntu (I have a huge repository of ISOs to hand, so that was no big deal, and bash commands I can do in my sleep) so I flashed the bootloader to the relevant unmounted partition @mohibr attached to this post: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=49549083&postcount=13
... using "dd" command, et VOILA! it works! (I knew it would, this is hardly rocket science, but still an extremely joyful moment to behold, seeing my less-than-one-day-old KF revived!)
I'm rather too tired to expand thoroughly on all the details, but if anyone needs any help, let me know soon before this whole episode is lost and forgotten (you've no idea HOW much of this kind of thing I do weekly, to myriad devices).
Here's my witness photos - please feel free to add me to the testimonys of people who took their time and revived their KF(2? not sure that it's a "2", just that it's a later version using "otter2", whatever that pertains to.)
Photos---> https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums/72157660358184524
Thank you so much, and God bless you all and have a lovely Christmas
Matthew.
Vcc location on mobo?
Trying to find a Vcc point on the fire gen2 mobo. multimeter took a crap and im getting scary readings. anyone have a picture of location so i can short to ground. My gen2 is currently stuck at "boot, then blackscreen". its not a loop and windows doesnt recognize the device at all.
Any pictures of the location would be greatly appreciated. ciao.
On a side note, i apologize for reviving this thread. I accidentally flashed a zipped boot image to my kindle. its been sitting for a few weeks. just finally ordered a fastboot cable.
Hello, Today I will show you how to replace a problematic sim/microsd/volume/power. The reason why they can be fixed together is because they are all on the same PCB that we will be replacing.
I made this guide because I went snowboarding and I dropped my phone in the snow. I tried the rice trick but after that my power button was still dying. I looked up prices for getting a professional to replace it and it was around $60 for a part that costs $10 MAX. So i just bought the part off of ebay and documented my process
EDIT: if the pictures don't show up, just right click and open in new tab for now
EDIT: There is now no need to remove the motherboard to solve this issue
Credits:
http://www.youtube.com/user/RepairsUniverse
and
http://www.youtube.com/user/RuedasLocas
DISCLAIMER: I DO NOT TAKE ANY RESPONSIBILITY IF YOU MANAGE TO MESS UP YOUR DEVICE. TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Prerequisite:
-A brain-Spare Sim Card Reader Tray Holder
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hot-Sim...x-Cable-Replacement-for-LG-P880-/301129602162
-Read/Watch all the links below
http://androidforums.com/lg-optimus...us-4x-hd-screen-replacement-repair-guide.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFmHFNKY8og
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGD64_g-ssE
After you are done, do it again to make sure you understand it
You can download these pictures from here
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8kdrxz28aku1x9x/tMsO_WAAuV
Tools I Used:
Small flathead
Small Philipshead
Thin pointy object
Scissors
https://www.dropbox.com/s/p9es5uyfej3jymz/1.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1evpx5782ei5nen/2.jpg
1) Remove these Screws only because the others are not required
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lub8senef5uhsqa/IMG_20140414_151433.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3dw6lf5rtqsslut/IMG_20140414_153856.jpg
2) Use the flathead to pry off the cover from the frame
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1nqhr45zzoa4ssf/IMG_20140414_151527.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a0ladgpn954fpkr/IMG_20140414_151534.jpg
3) Use the flathead to pry off the cover from the frame
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1nqhr45zzoa4ssf/IMG_20140414_151527.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a0ladgpn954fpkr/IMG_20140414_151534.jpg
4) This is what it should look like
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fzb7wh8jnn4ljwq/IMG_20140414_151604.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rcbyzvql8uy6p20/IMG_20140414_151627.jpg
5) Remove the silver screw with the philips head and put it in a safe place
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0u1yl88w08y5011/IMG_20140414_151702.jpg
New "easy" method
6) You DO NOT need to remove all the connectors, only the ones in red
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5cgxcq2ocm7fkwi/IMG_20140414_151844 - Copy.jpg
Take note that the electronic above the sim card slot just needs to be peeled off gently, It is NOT a connector but it does rest on top of the PCB.
Also, you'll need to pry off the vibration motor (the circle to the right of the Sim card slot) as it is glued in
7) This is what the PCB looks like when separated from the motherboard
Note: your motherboard will still be in your phone, i just wanted to shop you what both parts look like
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ysyid9eu2v5jjw/IMG_20140414_152536.jpg
8) Get out your new PCB
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6130c74hcx...414_152619.jpg
If The PCB you ordered did not come with the shielding then follow these steps
Note: Your motherboard should still be in your phone
8.a) Remove the shielding from the back of the original PCB, be careful of the glue to not damage any components
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nfpuwzf3om1ib3s/IMG_20140414_152657.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/73sbx0k32f4x5x4/IMG_20140414_152731.jpg
8.b) Now, put the shielding back onto the motherboard, it should fit into place nicely
https://www.dropbox.com/s/li966nnqujajgog/IMG_20140414_153037.jpg
8.c) Take out your new PCB and connect the connector to the motherboard before, placing it on the shielding
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mn97igyuir7o9q6/IMG_20140414_153154.jpg
Make sure everything is secure
8.d) Take out your new PCB and connect the connector to the motherboard before, placing it on the shielding
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mn97igyuir7o9q6/IMG_20140414_153154.jpg
Make sure everything is secure
Old Method by removing mother board
Procedure:
Follow the steps from the guide here up to Figure 3.4
8.a) After removing the motherboard, remove the following connector
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bsgwmyf6t1djpdb/IMG_20140414_152518.jpg
8.b) Now just pry off the PCB from the motherboard, be weary of the adhesive
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ysyid9eu2v5jjw/IMG_20140414_152536.jpg
8.c) Get out your new PCB
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6130c74hcxd413x/IMG_20140414_152619.jpg
8.d) Remove the shielding from the back of the original PCB, be careful of the glue to not damage any components
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nfpuwzf3om1ib3s/IMG_20140414_152657.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/73sbx0k32f4x5x4/IMG_20140414_152731.jpg
8.e) Now, put the shielding back onto the motherboard, it should fit into place nicely
https://www.dropbox.com/s/li966nnqujajgog/IMG_20140414_153037.jpg
8.f) Take out your new PCB and connect the connector to the motherboard before, placing it on the shielding
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mn97igyuir7o9q6/IMG_20140414_153154.jpg
Make sure everything is secure
8.g) Slide the motherboard back into place inside the frame
(Make sure not to damage any connectors by safely getting them out of the way BEFORE putting in your motherboard)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ojvh1vftm6s3qza/IMG_20140414_153415.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f3k5f1c7qelaq74/IMG_20140414_153420.jpg
9) Reconnect all of the connectors you previously disconnected EXCEPT the volume and power
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v0oyeoaswkd0gb9/IMG_20140414_153602.jpg
10) Now carefully slide in the power and volume buttons into their correct spots
(I used the flathead the push the rockers out of the way to slide in the buttons)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l94dfverf2ziwl7/IMG_20140414_153832.jpg
Now test the feel of the buttons before putting the Screw back in. (You should hear the tactile feedback)
11) Screw in the screw you removed to get the motherboard out
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3dw6lf5rtqsslut/IMG_20140414_153856.jpg
12) Put the cover back on (do NOT put the screws back in yet) and see if the all the sides close properly
https://www.dropbox.com/s/e4sc0thp8ioi1dn/IMG_20140414_153954.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wyob0xuxaqkp8ve/IMG_20140414_154002.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7x46humbisb5lm7/IMG_20140414_154010.jpg
13) Well crap, i have a bump
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3h6mejmug79o8ar/IMG_20140414_154015.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/69w769ubiz03fpk/IMG_20140414_154131.jpg
Time to backtrack and see what is not seated properly
14) After all that is done and is properly fitted, Put in your sim car, micro sd, and battery
(Do NOT put in the screws yet)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/it26v6h7763flzs/IMG_20140414_154143.jpg
15) Now power on and see if it works
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fumzxsuewnqqgn4/IMG_20140414_154158.jpg
(Mine did, I was so happy I could cry!)
16) After it power on, test all your buttons
17)Test Cases:
Press power button once to see if the screen turns off
Press the power button to see if the Screen wakes up
Press the volume up to see if the volume increases
Press the volume down to see if the volume decreases
Check your sim connectivity, should have bars
Check your micro sd card by going to Setting>Storage>SD Card
Check your cameras
check your sound
If something does not work, backtrack and check all of your connections.
If your power or volume buttons don't work, check the PCB connection. If it still doesn't work, you might have received a defective PCB like I did (My volume buttons didn't work). Contact your seller and ask for a replacement for your defective item (I got mine for free and now everything works).
18) If everything works, NOW screw in your remaining screws and close her up and enjoy your day!
You can download these pictures from here
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8kdrxz28aku1x9x/tMsO_WAAuV
Don't forget to hit thanks!
vibration motor?
hi i have been following your instructions and everything has been going very smoothly. however, i cant figure out how you take out the vibration motor from the old pcb and put it into the new one. do you simply yank it out? i dont want to break anything, thanks!
bobbidik said:
hi i have been following your instructions and everything has been going very smoothly. however, i cant figure out how you take out the vibration motor from the old pcb and put it into the new one. do you simply yank it out? i dont want to break anything, thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No do not yank it, the wires are sensitive, I used a soldering iron and heated the contacts up enough to the point where the wires were able to be pulled out. Then I soldered it to my new one. (Remember which wire goes to which contact)
don't forget to hit thanks!
abhi08638 said:
No do not yank it, the wires are sensitive, I used a soldering iron and heated the contacts up enough to the point where the wires were able to be pulled out. Then I soldered it to my new one. (Remember which wire goes to which contact)
don't forget to hit thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
aww i dont know how to solder nor do i have a soldering kit. oh well, i guess i can live without the vibrate function. thanks anyways!
bobbidik said:
aww i dont know how to solder nor do i have a soldering kit. oh well, i guess i can live without the vibrate function. thanks anyways!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its honestly really easy and a good skill to learn, but there are PCBs with the motor already attached on eBay if you ever need it.
don't forget to hit thanks!
Awesome walkthrough.
I might use it one of these days as my power button is pretty much gone.
Thank you. I'm having weird SIM card reading issues. Flash the same ROM twice, and once it will detect the SIM, the other time it won't.
sketchman16 said:
Thank you. I'm having weird SIM card reading issues. Flash the same ROM twice, and once it will detect the SIM, the other time it won't.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That doesn't mean anything is broken.
Try flashing a stock ROM and if it works then your sim tray is still working
sent from my amazingly awesome OnePlus One
Don't forget to hit thanks!
So if I flash SlimKat 8.9 which I know the SIM card would read on before, and now it doesn't that doesn't mean it's a hardware thing?
Also, no custom ROM will now read the SIM. I've tried probably 5 since it started not reading. I'll try the stock ROM before I tear into it, I guess, but it seemed logical to me. IDK.
Radio is extremely crappy on this device. Custom roms don't implement all stock radio features so there can be (even randomly) broken things.
Hmm. Well, I tried to go back to stock. It just won't. Even got to a point where the LG update tool would flash in and out of being connected to the phone, and it would never settle on one or the other, so it can't do anything. Flash tool also reports no connection to the phone no matter what I do. I'm just about sick of this thing.
sketchman16 said:
Hmm. Well, I tried to go back to stock. It just won't. Even got to a point where the LG update tool would flash in and out of being connected to the phone, and it would never settle on one or the other, so it can't do anything. Flash tool also reports no connection to the phone no matter what I do. I'm just about sick of this thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your recovery is still available, then just flash one of the stock 4.1.2 ROMs from the android development section
sent from my amazingly awesome OnePlus One
Don't forget to hit thanks!
I don't suppose....
sketchman16 said:
Thank you. I'm having weird SIM card reading issues. Flash the same ROM twice, and once it will detect the SIM, the other time it won't.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably a silly question but have you tried a different SIM card in the reader to see if it could be the SIM card itself that is a problem?
---------- Post added at 07:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:27 PM ----------
abhi08638 said:
Its honestly really easy and a good skill to learn, but there are PCBs with the motor already attached on eBay if you ever need it.
don't forget to hit thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree that soldering is indeed a useful skill but I am not sure that a relatively expensive (and I am sure in everyone's eyes, precious) phone is the best place to start practicing; heat damage from a soldering iron can do irreversible damage to sensitive components as well as the copper tracks on the PCB.
Also, I may be a good idea to edit the guide a little to mention the possibility of needing to desolder/solder if the appropriate parts require it?
Yes, tried multiple SIM cards. None work on a custom ROM now. My first flash with SlimKat 8.9, was golden in every way but the camera. Then nothing but trouble with everything else. Even the "stable" CM 10 wasn't stable for me. I just managed to get a pure LG 20d ROM installed, and everything works fine. Battery life is even great. I started flashing custom ROMs to get a better device, but now with a rooted, Xposed, and stable stock ROM, I kind of wonder if it's worth bothering. It would be nice to have KK, but I don't really miss it TBH. I still have root, I still have "most" of what I liked about KK, and there are no more bugs.
Same with my original Nexus 7. Both had been flashed to KK of one sort or another (MANY times before I gave up), and both developed issues from it no matter how I did it. Went back to stock JB on both devices, and everything is fine.
If I flash any more custom ROMs I'm def going to keep a solid JB backup ready to get a stable device back if need be, and so far need be indeed.
Hello,
My LG Phone on KK stopped reading my SIMs a month or so back. I tried different SIMS, but still wont work. I flashed KK again and then later Lollipop AOSP, but still wont work. I thought maybe the SIM Reader was faulty, so ordered a new one. But even after changing, same problem. Don't know what the issue is. Can anyone suggest any further solutions / ideas ? Thanks.
....... duplicate message removed.....
abhi08638 said:
Hello, Today I will show you how to replace a problematic sim/microsd/volume/power. The reason why they can be fixed together is because they are all on the same PCB that we will be replacing.
.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I want to repair only power only button that has became defective and doesn't respond well I have to do all these steps?? OMG
Is this the right component to purchase to fix power switch? (see attachment)
Hey guys bout to beat my head against a wall on this one.
A buddy of mine "tired" to replace his front glass on his Moto X and ended up destroying it. Apparently he cooked it pretty well with a hair dryer on high in the process of trying to the glass off and fried the LCD and digitizer and possibly more. Anyway he brought me over a bag of parts and asked if i could retrieve his data. He was running unrooted stock with a locked bootloader and I'm assuming debugging turned off but not sure.
So this is the part i start hitting my head against the wall. After reassembling it without the LCD/digitizer assembly pluged in, I pluged it in via USB and it installs it's self as a MOTOROLA PHONE, and seams to be using the USB INPUT and HID Compliant Vendor Defined Device drivers. I cant for the life of me get it to use the right drivers. I've installed Motorola's driver/device manager and run the Motorola driver installer but nothing is working.
Really don't know that much about the Moto X as I don't own one myself but i'd assume that it should install as a specific device and not a generic MOTOROLA PHONE as well as using MTP drivers instead of USB INPUT
Basically though, short of the driver issues, my main question is. Is there anyway of pulling data from a headless, bootloader locked, ADB disabled device? I personally don't think there is but just in case i thought i'd ask.
Would rather not buy a new LCD/Digitizer assembly for $70 if the main board got fried from the heat of the hairdryer, but might have to if there's no other way, at least then I could see what going on.
Have checked though the forms and didn't see any other similar topics on this, so if I missed it please link it.
Thanks ahead of time.
~Ninjaboy837
Ninjaboy837 said:
Hey guys bout to beat my head against a wall on this one.
A buddy of mine "tired" to replace his front glass on his Moto X and ended up destroying it. Apparently he cooked it pretty well with a hair dryer on high in the process of trying to the glass off and fried the LCD and digitizer and possibly more. Anyway he brought me over a bag of parts and asked if i could retrieve his data. He was running unrooted stock with a locked bootloader and I'm assuming debugging turned off but not sure.
So this is the part i start hitting my head against the wall. After reassembling it without the LCD/digitizer assembly pluged in, I pluged it in via USB and it installs it's self as a MOTOROLA PHONE, and seams to be using the USB INPUT and HID Compliant Vendor Defined Device drivers. I cant for the life of me get it to use the right drivers. I've installed Motorola's driver/device manager and run the Motorola driver installer but nothing is working.
Really don't know that much about the Moto X as I don't own one myself but i'd assume that it should install as a specific device and not a generic MOTOROLA PHONE as well as using MTP drivers instead of USB INPUT
Basically though, short of the driver issues, my main question is. Is there anyway of pulling data from a headless, bootloader locked, ADB disabled device? I personally don't think there is but just in case i thought i'd ask.
Would rather not buy a new LCD/Digitizer assembly for $70 if the main board got fried from the heat of the hairdryer, but might have to if there's no other way, at least then I could see what going on.
Have checked though the forms and didn't see any other similar topics on this, so if I missed it please link it.
Thanks ahead of time.
~Ninjaboy837
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now , I'm not a hardware specialist or anything ,but , do you suppose you could somehow "Directly" access data from the NAND chip ?
Ref: " https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola+Moto+X+Teardown/16867 "
I did a little research on the NAND chip, unfortunately there is an NDA in place, so you probably won't be able to find out what the pins are to access it. I have been wrong before. Problem with using the hair dryer on high is that heat=energy in motion, which can cause electron flow.
If your friend didn't take appropriate precautions, ie grounding himself, ESD pad, dry hands, it is possible he shorted the entire assembly, and all his data is destroyed, especially if he didn't disconnect the battery.
Finally, the bag of parts=sensitive electrical components in a heavily charged static bag. Chances are that could've killed any chance of getting data.
The reason that your computer is recognizing the device as a Motorola Phone and that is it is as a failsafe, the processor isn't completely dead and is doing what it can to help you, by trolling you.
Good Luck!
I picked up a 4.4.2 Moto X with a bad battery and a bad (broken panel, no display) screen assembly. It did the same as what you're describing when hooked up via USB. After installing a good battery and plugging in a working screen it booted right up without any trouble. Before the parts the phone would light a green LED in the earpiece when plugged into the charger. Unless he really super baked the crap out of it you can probably get it working with a screen and possibly a battery.
If you do need a screen I was looking at the $52 dollar option on ebay myself before I found another option, it's auction number 251892071870 .
I'd suggest trying this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2786395
You'd be able to run the recovery by pressing all three buttons when the device is off to get to the bootloader. Then when you guess that its loaded press volume down once, then volume up once. Then wait 10-30 seconds for recovery to load
tormin said:
I picked up a 4.4.2 Moto X with a bad battery and a bad (broken panel, no display) screen assembly. It did the same as what you're describing when hooked up via USB. After installing a good battery and plugging in a working screen it booted right up without any trouble. Before the parts the phone would light a green LED in the earpiece when plugged into the charger. Unless he really super baked the crap out of it you can probably get it working with a screen and possibly a battery.
If you do need a screen I was looking at the $52 dollar option on ebay myself before I found another option, it's auction number 251892071870 .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I might just have to try that, i did notice with the battery out and connected via USB the phone shows up as a USB INPUT, but as soon as you plug in the battery and the X8 computing system then it switches to MOTOROLA PHONE.
mrmidnight said:
I did a little research on the NAND chip, unfortunately there is an NDA in place, so you probably won't be able to find out what the pins are to access it. I have been wrong before. Problem with using the hair dryer on high is that heat=energy in motion, which can cause electron flow.
If your friend didn't take appropriate precautions, ie grounding himself, ESD pad, dry hands, it is possible he shorted the entire assembly, and all his data is destroyed, especially if he didn't disconnect the battery.
Finally, the bag of parts=sensitive electrical components in a heavily charged static bag. Chances are that could've killed any chance of getting data.
The reason that your computer is recognizing the device as a Motorola Phone and that is it is as a failsafe, the processor isn't completely dead and is doing what it can to help you, by trolling you.
Good Luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, some people don't realize the big affects of not following little precautions.
Found a article on hackaday about reading NAND chips in place on the pcb might give that a try if all else fails.
http://hackaday.com/2010/12/24/reading-nand-flash-chips-without-removing-them/
http://www.uchobby.com/index.php/2007/05/05/read-embedded-flash-chips/
raddacle said:
I'd suggest trying this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2786395
You'd be able to run the recovery by pressing all three buttons when the device is off to get to the bootloader. Then when you guess that its loaded press volume down once, then volume up once. Then wait 10-30 seconds for recovery to load
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When booting in to the Moto X's recovery does it start ADB? I'm not sure if ADB is enabled or not, but it's worth a shot. I've gotten spoiled with My TWRP recovery auto enabling ADB on recovery boot.
ooo just saw this, there might be hope after all
Ricky Divjakovski said:
for people who dont have adb enabled, i suggest you contact a kernel developer to automatically enable it in the default.prop and sideload the kernel in recovery!
i broke my S3 on stock so nothing was enabled.
i enabled adb via the default.prop and compiled the kernel and flashed in recovery(sideload).
now i have full control over the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ninjaboy837 said:
When booting in to the Moto X's recovery does it start ADB? I'm not sure if ADB is enabled or not, but it's worth a shot. I've gotten spoiled with My TWRP recovery auto enabling ADB on recovery boot.
ooo just saw this, there might be hope after all
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm you know what, you're right. It seems Nexus devices have adb on stock recovery- Moto's don't. Though what you found might be gold, I hope you can bust out a modified kernel- or know someone who does.
EDIT: Though I don't know how you're going to get the Update.zip on the phone to flash it. Worse comes to worse you could plug a mouse into the phone and play a guessing game of what you're clicking on
Hello guys i have an air II model HG7N and i think that is finally died.
The brick occurred when i used mirek´s flashtool to update the bios from 2.02 to 2.05 after that i got the brick, but i tried to reprogram the bios with the programmer flashing a new one directly to the chip,result it doesn´t turn on although the process seems to be correct, also i have left the tablet charging the tablet and tried all the buttton combinations to get it back to life with no result.
Can someone share the original bios v 1.02 cuz i think that is my final option.
Any idea of what happens?My teclast has eventually gone to the other world?
Help guys pleaaaasee:crying:
Phantom2332 said:
Hello guys i have an air II model HG7N and i think that is finally died.
The brick occurred when i used mirek´s flashtool to update the bios from 2.02 to 2.05 after that i got the brick, but i tried to reprogram the bios with the programmer flashing a new one directly to the chip,result it doesn´t turn on although the process seems to be correct, also i have left the tablet charging the tablet and tried all the buttton combinations to get it back to life with no result.
Can someone share the original bios v 1.02 cuz i think that is my final option.
Any idea of what happens?My teclast has eventually gone to the other world?
Help guys pleaaaasee:crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
when you programmed did you also verified?
if you programmed with the battery on, have you unplugged the battery AFTER you flashed so that the board can init with the new bios?
is it possible you broke something physically? or electrically using a different Vcc programmer?
ionioni said:
when you programmed did you also verified?
if you programmed with the battery on, have you unplugged the battery AFTER you flashed so that the board can init with the new bios?
is it possible you broke something physically? or electrically using a different Vcc programmer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep i desoldered the battery before flashing and i think that i havent broken anything or it seems like that, the programmer is okay because i have used it with other x98 devices.
Also i verified the bios, so what could be the problem ?:crying:
Phantom2332 said:
Yep i desoldered the battery before flashing and i think that i havent broken anything or it seems like that, the programmer is okay because i have used it with other x98 devices.
Also i verified the bios, so what could be the problem ?:crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
since you say that the programmer verified ok the programmed bios file that rules out the possibility of having the hard-brick because of a bad bios and leaves you only with the hardware failure possibility
can you check on your voltage level of the programmer? the winbond SPI flash in your device operates at 1.8V (i know those chips as i have too hard-bricked my Lenovo Yoga Tab 2 Pro and it had a similar Baytrail hardware) the chip can be W25Q64FW(or W25Q64DW older but identical) the datasheet for this chip (you can find it here) says under 'Absolute Maximum Ratings' that the maximum voltage for wich Winbond somehow still assures you that won't burn the chip is of Vcc+0.6V = 2.4V (and a maximum transient of Vcc+1V=2.8V, but this should be only very short peaks not normal working voltage as it is with a programmer). if you have used a 3.3V programmer it is quite possible that you fried something (an if you programmed on board the voltage goes around, not just the spi is exposed). i know you've said you used it on other x98 devices but you should also know that not all the devices are created equal (and if you're using a 3.3V programmer you should get yourself a level converter so you are safe) and when you are outside of the maximum ratings there's no warranty that it will work or be destroyed. since you say it verified ok it should still work, but did he? you should also check the working area, maybe you broke some small smd device when soldering/clipping
you can buy yourself some chips (i payed 2$ for a 10 pcs lot on allyexpress still have them someplace as it was not the case to use them) and try with a new chip... hopefully the other stuff is still alive
Phantom2332 said:
Yep i desoldered the battery before flashing and i think that i havent broken anything or it seems like that, the programmer is okay because i have used it with other x98 devices.
Also i verified the bios, so what could be the problem ?:crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
were you able to solve the problem?
No man