As the title states, I replaced my battery with an OEM battery and after putting everything back together my camera won't open and the flashlight quick setting tile has disappeared. Changing the battery doesn't require messing with the camera, except for that the flash is part of the back case with pogo pin connectors and they look fine. Any ideas?
neilrl79 said:
As the title states, I replaced my battery with an OEM battery and after putting everything back together my camera won't open and the flashlight quick setting tile has disappeared. Changing the battery doesn't require messing with the camera, except for that the flash is part of the back case with pogo pin connectors and they look fine. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check your cables. The flex cable is very easy to mess up. I have not taken an N6 apart but have messed up a cable in my time. This is the most common mistake. I would take it apart again (making sure to use an anti static environment of course) and make sure not to get an oil from your skin on it. Then try again. Also pull a logcat and see if it is failing.
Well, break it back down because something either isn't connected or something is damaged. Trial and Error.
zelendel said:
Check your cables. The flex cable is very easy to mess up. I have not taken an N6 apart but have messed up a cable in my time. This is the most common mistake. I would take it apart again (making sure to use an anti static environment of course) and make sure not to get an oil from your skin on it. Then try again. Also pull a logcat and see if it is failing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Flex cables seem good. I've had it back part several times and all with no luck.
lowridincrew said:
Well, break it back down because something either isn't connected or something is damaged. Trial and Error.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only thing that I can see that could possibly cause the issue would be the contact connections for the flash but they don't appear to be messed up.
I gave up for the night but I'll tear it back open tomorrow and go at it again.
Here is a few logcat screenshots. I think I got all of it.
neilrl79 said:
Flex cables seem good. I've had it back part several times and all with no luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Before replacement of the battery camera was working. (Assuming).
When you touched contacts of flex cables, cleaning is needed with a solvent like isopropanol.
When you're sure the flex cables are OK, you could try to go back to the previous state and use the old battery and test the camera.
Before that you could connect the charger to the USB and try if the camera is working.
I do those suggestions because I got the impression that there is a connection problem (hardware issue).
This can be temporarily solved by changing the temperature of the device.
a. by charging the battery.
b. cooling down, with a professional aerosol to cool down electronic parts.
c. cooling down the phone in refrigerator or freezer.
NLBeev said:
Before replacement of the battery camera was working. (Assuming).
When you touched contacts of flex cables, cleaning is needed with a solvent like isopropanol.
When you're sure the flex cables are OK, you could try to go back to the previous state and use the old battery and test the camera.
Before that you could connect the charger to the USB and try if the camera is working.
I do those suggestions because I got the impression that there is a connection problem (hardware issue).
This can be temporarily solved by changing the temperature of the device.
a. by charging the battery.
b. cooling down, with a professional aerosol to cool down electronic parts.
c. cooling down the phone in refrigerator or freezer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll give that a try tonight.
Had the N6 apart again tonight, cleaned any and all contacts that could have been soiled by me while changing the battery. The ribbon cables that were in any way disturbed by changing the battery are all in working order. The actual connection for the camera itself was never disturbed and tight enough that I didn't want to risk break it just to try and clean it.
My thought is that perhaps the camera just went bad. I may order a replacement in the next couple weeks just to see what happens.
I have the exact same problem, so I don't think its just a coincidence that yours stopped working when you replaced the battery too. Did your replacement battery have curvature, or was it flat?
I know the issue isn't caused by a ribbon cable, as the cameras are connected directly to the board, and totally separate.
Phillbert! said:
I have the exact same problem, so I don't think its just a coincidence that yours stopped working when you replaced the battery too. Did your replacement battery have curvature, or was it flat?
I know the issue isn't caused by a ribbon cable, as the cameras are connected directly to the board, and totally separate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seemed pretty flat I suppose. I was sure that, after looking at it, that the camera just wasn't being pushed back against the board properly and wasn't making good contact.
neilrl79 said:
It seemed pretty flat I suppose. I was sure that, after looking at it, that the camera just wasn't being pushed back against the board properly and wasn't making good contact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking that might be the issue. The battery I got was flat too. But the Nexus OEM battery has a curvature to it. I had to slightly bend it to get it to fit. Once I got it bent right, there is still some travel up or down. Basically, the battery can sit in the frame a little high or a little lower; it isn't a perfect fit. Finally, the connector for the wireless charger never fit perfectly once I did mine. Did you use a new wireless charging coil, the same, or remove it entirely?
Phillbert! said:
I was thinking that might be the issue. The battery I got was flat too. But the Nexus OEM battery has a curvature to it. I had to slightly bend it to get it to fit. Once I got it bent right, there is still some travel up or down. Basically, the battery can sit in the frame a little high or a little lower; it isn't a perfect fit. Finally, the connector for the wireless charger never fit perfectly once I did mine. Did you use a new wireless charging coil, the same, or remove it entirely?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The battery I bought seems oem, it has all the same markings as the original.
I actually was able to reuse the wireless charging pad. It was a ***** to get the connector lined up but I managed it.
neilrl79 said:
The battery I bought seems oem, it has all the same markings as the original.
I actually was able to reuse the wireless charging pad. It was a ***** to get the connector lined up but I managed it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have a wireless charger? If so, does it still charge the phone?
Phillbert! said:
Do you have a wireless charger? If so, does it still charge the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a wireless charger that I use for my N7 that I used to test it, and yes it still worked.
Well, it seems my camera just decided to start working again.
I haven't peeled the adhesive backing off of the new "battery cover" yet, it is just being held in place by my case at the moment. I figure if it is still working at the end of the week I'll go ahead and place it permanently.
Related
For a few days my phone hasn't been charging, and at first I thought it was a problem with the battery, but having bought a new one I've realised that when I tilted the charger to the left it would charge, but when it's just left it wouldn't, so I guess a bit of a miss-alignment.
Anyone got any ideas how I can fix this problem?
Cheers, nathaniel
try another cable and make sure it's the one that came with the phone. you should have a usb one and a ac adapter. if both are like that then you need to warranty it out.
Yeah, Ive tried it with the USB cable and the charger, I got the same result. Is there no quick fix, I'm going abroad in 9 days and quite need my phone...
There are a few discussions on bad USB connectors in these forums -- searching might provide some things to try.
From what I can remember, it's possible the pins in the connector (on the phone side) might be bent out of place -- you might want to inspect them with a magnifying glass and try to carefully bend them back if any seem out of place.
It's also possible that the connector itself is broken -- in which case you're looking at a service call.
this seems like the problem i faced. i was also facing the same problem and i read the forums here and found it as a usb port issue. so i slightly bent the usb port so that the contacts are aligned and then it started charging
Hey I would also recommend trying a new a new charger again because I have had my share of faulty chargers. Last time I had a problem charging was with a brand new cable that did not work right at the box from At&T and thought it was my battery until i tried another charger that worked. I would suggest trying the charger that is not working on another phone and see if its actually the charger or if it is your phone that is not working.
burtcom said:
There are a few discussions on bad USB connectors in these forums -- searching might provide some things to try.
From what I can remember, it's possible the pins in the connector (on the phone side) might be bent out of place -- you might want to inspect them with a magnifying glass and try to carefully bend them back if any seem out of place.
It's also possible that the connector itself is broken -- in which case you're looking at a service call.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it is to do with the pins in the connector.
I had a search but I'm not very good on forums and I can't find anything of any use. Does anyone have a link?
Just look at the last few pages of topics, you should find something... there are threads about broken USB at least once a week.
One common conclusion is to avoid using USB cables other than the supplied one as their
plugs are a little thicker and tend to deform the phone's plug over time (I admit I always use others though, and as a result do sometimes need to wiggle the cable a tad and not move anything anymore once the connection is established... ).
I once dismounted my Hermes and tightened the plug back a bit, it helped, I've never done it with my Kaiser yet though. If you're not used to dismantling and fixing devices I'd recommend returning it for repair indeed.
I had a the opposite happen, it would charge but no data connection with my pc. If you look at your extUSB port on your phone, see if the black plastic tab is cracked (which was my case) or if the pins are shifted. whatever the issue, its obviously hardware related, take it to an At&t service center tell them whats wrong and if your in warranty they'll change it on the spot.
gonzo8898 said:
Hey I would also recommend trying a new a new charger again because I have had my share of faulty chargers. Last time I had a problem charging was with a brand new cable that did not work right at the box from At&T and thought it was my battery until i tried another charger that worked. I would suggest trying the charger that is not working on another phone and see if its actually the charger or if it is your phone that is not working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He got the same result using his USB cable so that would rule out the charger.
fone_fanatic said:
I had a the opposite happen, it would charge but no data connection with my pc. If you look at your extUSB port on your phone, see if the black plastic tab is cracked (which was my case) or if the pins are shifted. whatever the issue, its obviously hardware related, take it to an At&t service center tell them whats wrong and if your in warranty they'll change it on the spot.
He got the same result using his USB cable so that would rule out the charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im in England, took it to the T-Mobile shop, the service was rubish and without even looking at it they send I should send it off which would take 2 weeks. There is a crack in the black plastic tab
Hi, so this is a partial port of a thread I started over on the General forum.
I may have possibly water damaged my Captivate a few days ago. It wasn't submerged or anything, but was in my pocket when I got water on my lap, and didn't come out immediately.
I disassembled the phone and let it dry for a few days, and after putting the battery back in and starting it things seemed to be working fine. However, the battery was almost dead to begin, and when I plugged the charger into the USB port, I got an error about battery temp being too high and charging pausing as a result.
When I plug the phone in while it is off to the wall charger, I get a screen that flashes from the usual charging picture (the battery with a little bit of green in it) to a picture of a batter next to a caution sign and a high temperature thermometer.
What should I do? I see no signs of corrosion on the battery itself or the pins that connect with it. So long as the phone was not plugged in, I got no errors and it worked fine (on the 2% battery life that is now extinguished). This leads me to believe the problem is in the micro USB port on the top of the phone, but I can't be sure. I cannot see in it very well and don't want to disassemble it unless I have to.
Should I just buy a new battery? Will I never be able to charge my phone through the USB jack? Does this mean I should get an independent charger for the battery, and just juice it up that way from now on (a big hassle)? Any and all advice or experience appreciated.
Has nobody had any experience with this?
If a phone gets wet when power is applied (ie: sleep mode), usually it doesn't matter if you let it dry. The damage is already done. Moisture in the usb connector can do all kinds of weird things to a phone.
Have you tried cleaning the gold battery contacts on the phone and the battery? You can use rubbing alcohol on the phone contacts, followed by a white eraser.
I'd go ahead and buy a new battery. If it doesn't work, you'll have a spare when you buy a new phone.
kegobeer said:
If a phone gets wet when power is applied (ie: sleep mode), usually it doesn't matter if you let it dry. The damage is already done. Moisture in the usb connector can do all kinds of weird things to a phone.
Have you tried cleaning the gold battery contacts on the phone and the battery? You can use rubbing alcohol on the phone contacts, followed by a white eraser.
I'd go ahead and buy a new battery. If it doesn't work, you'll have a spare when you buy a new phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't tried using isopropyl yet. There doesn't seem to be any corrosion on the contacts whatsoever, so I didn't think it necessary. I'll give it a go.
It may be worth nothing that neither of the water indicators have turned color. Of course, the USB jack is a long way from where those water indicators are... It is completely plausible water got in there and never got down to the battery or contacts. Like I said, the only problems I've encountered are when the phone is plugged in to the charger...
Thanks for the advice though. I'll try it. If not, maybe its time to consider dismantling this thing and attempting a wipe down of the USB jack...
This One M7 had been my spare for close to a year. I replaced the screen, camera, and back cover to make it whole again, and everything worked great for a couple months. Unfortunately, it completely died one day while I was using it and the device has shown no signs of life since... until now.
Actually, it still doesn't really show any signs of life. No amount of button holding has been able to elicit any response whatsoever. No charging indicator light either. I've tried leaving it sitting for several months, but this too has not changed anything. I finally opened it up today to check on the battery connection and reseated it. Still nothing.
The one and only response that I do get is recognition on my computer when plugging it in, where it shows up as an "MTP USB Device." Nothing shows up in Windows Explorer though except an empty CD drive.
Any ideas?
Bill720 said:
This One M7 had been my spare for close to a year. I replaced the screen, camera, and back cover to make it whole again, and everything worked great for a couple months. Unfortunately, it completely died one day while I was using it and the device has shown no signs of life since... until now.
Actually, it still doesn't really show any signs of life. No amount of button holding has been able to elicit any response whatsoever. No charging indicator light either. I've tried leaving it sitting for several months, but this too has not changed anything. I finally opened it up today to check on the battery connection and reseated it. Still nothing.
The one and only response that I do get is recognition on my computer when plugging it in, where it shows up as an "MTP USB Device." Nothing shows up in Windows Explorer though except an empty CD drive.
Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you bricked it, maybe flashing RUU can help. if it will not help you can then use JTAG, it can help to flash firmware on dead boards. you can find JTAG on eBay.
Request for clarification
itwasmistake said:
you bricked it, maybe flashing RUU can help. if it will not help you can then use JTAG, it can help to flash firmware on dead boards. you can find JTAG on eBay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How could I have "bricked" it without flashing anything? The device literally died while I was using it.
Bill720 said:
How could I have "bricked" it without flashing anything? The device literally died while I was using it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have multimeter to check voltage on battery? it could be battery problem, or maybe connector on motherboard is damaged? check for scratches on board (on traces).
It shall be tried
itwasmistake said:
Do you have multimeter to check voltage on battery? it could be battery problem, or maybe connector on motherboard is damaged? check for scratches on board (on traces).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try to measure the battery voltage this weekend. Aren't the pins a little small to test with standard multimeter leads though?
0volt multimeter test
I finally got around to trying to measure the voltage of the current battery with a standard multimeter. I got absolutely nothing, which means that I'm either measuring it wrong, the leads are not sharp enough, or the battery is dead. Has anyone else ever had any luck testing this battery with a multimeter?
Going for it!
I tested another, similar, battery by multimeter successfully, so I suspect that it might just be a case of bad battery (at least). With that and the fact that I had a Galaxy Note 2 battery fail earlier in the year, I'm going to jump in and buy new batteries.
Rather than just trying to go cold turkey and install the replacement, I'll test it with the multimeter and then hook it up pre-install. If the phone powers up, then (and only then) will I go through the massive hassle of replacing it. We'll know one way or another next week when it comes in.
Humongous Tinfoil Catamaran!
Just to follow up, I did end up buying that battery. Definitely not "new," but as long as it's in decent shape, it should do the job. While the multimeter test revealed practically nothing, (same as before) the phone did spring to life with the charging indicator as soon as I plugged it in to power. With that, I've charged it up and will be fully testing the phone next weekend. If everything checks out, I'll start the long & annoying process of replacing the battery and hopefully have a fully-working One once again.
Here's to Change!
FIXED!
Just to provide some closure, I can say that the battery replacement was a success! The vibration motor is totally dead (despite being plugged in adequately and not seized) and the casing took a beating from the repeated re-entry attempts, but the phone is now working once again. I suppose I could buy another replacement back cover to really finish the job, but will probably just leave it as-is for right now.
1) Can't charge while it is in normal mode.
2) Can't charge with USB C to C
3) Can only charge using USB A to C, while the phone is turned off. It still splashes the logo and vibrates repeatedly.
The port is not visible to any laptop, so adb and fastboot seem out of the question.
The stock recovery on this device has "apply update from SD card", so I need to figure out how an update.zip should look like.
Razer have a bunch of older stock ROMs on their site.
Can I just take the latest, rename it update.zip, put it on a micro SD and use the stock recovery to fix things?
Just saw the tear down. It's worse than my N10+ port PCB to replace.
However if the battery is getting near its lifespan maybe now is the time as the battery needs to come out anyway to replace the port PCB.
The port PCB price is probably low.
blackhawk said:
Just saw the tear down. It's worse than my N10+ port PCB to replace.
However if the battery is getting near its lifespan maybe now is the time as the battery needs to come out anyway to replace the port PCB.
The port PCB price is probably low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The other thing I just found is that when I use "apply update from ADB" it used to complain about init.usb.rc, init.usb.configfs.rc. I looked at both files. 0B length with 1969 date on them. What?
There must be some way to flash a recovery from the sd card instead of using the USB port.
The thing is the battery held the whole day after a night charge yesterday, so probably not the battery. I have a feeling some apps I used to "improve" the battery and "fix" the system deleted some bits.
pensive said:
The other thing I just found is that when I use "apply update from ADB" it used to complained about is init.usb.rc, init.usb.configfs.rc. I looked at both files. 0B length with 1969 date on them. What?
There must be some way to flash a recovery from the sd card instead of using the USB port.
The thing is the battery held the whole day after a night charge yesterday, so probably not the battery. I have a feeling some apps I used to "improve" the battery and "fix" the system deleted some bits.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have a bad usb port PCB I would replace it now.
They can cause a lot of mischief and in other services that you never expect it to.
The battery is cheap so it's easiest to replace it at the same time as you need to pull it anyway.
200 or more full charge cycles, replace.
One more thing. I bought a wireless charger to see if it is 100% the port, and the wireless charger has not made anything easier. It seems not capable of getting any charge in. So at the moment I have only one to charge it, turn it off and use USB A to USB C cable.
pensive said:
One more thing. I bought a wireless charger to see if it is 100% the port, and the wireless charger has not made anything easier. It seems not capable of getting any charge in. So at the moment I have only one to charge it, turn it off and use USB A to USB C cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably a defective charge port PCB... you can try a factory reset or reflashing the stock firmware if really want to test it.
Check for any signs of battery (rear panel or display bulging) swelling; replace battery asap if present! Batteries can fail at any time.
blackhawk said:
Probably a defective charge port PCB... you can try a factory reset or reflashing the stock firmware if really want to test it.
Check for any signs of battery (rear panel or display bulging) swelling; replace battery asap if present! Batteries can fail at any time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have now done the factory reset, didn't help. Nothing is bulging. I would like to flash a fresh factory ROM, but I have no access to the port. So, no fastboot and no adb. I can't even install proper drivers in Win10 PRO since the laptop does not recognize the phone, at all.
I am searching now for any solutions with the sd card. People used to do that, updates with *.zip on an sd.
Since it is out of warranty anyway now, I have finally unlocked the bootloader.
I am trying to find out if the ROMs Razer provide on their site are signed or not.
pensive said:
I have now done the factory reset, didn't help. Nothing is bulging. I would like to flash a fresh factory ROM, but I have no access to the port. So, no fastboot and no adb. I can't even install proper drivers in Win10 PRO since the laptop does not recognize the phone, at all.
I am searching now for any solutions with the sd card. People used to do that, updates with *.zip on an sd.
Since it is out of warranty anyway now, I have finally unlocked the bootloader.
I am trying to find out if the ROMs Razer provide on their site are signed or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The port PCB needs replaced... if you're lucky that's it.
Don't make it harder than it needs too be...
blackhawk said:
The port PCB needs replaced... if you're lucky that's it.
Don't make it harder than it needs too be...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if you have had a chance to see the USB port assembly on Ebay? Some prices are close to $120. Add to that labor costs (unless you think I should do the deed myself) or costs for tools and fresh adhesive for the plastic that covers speakers, etc... and it is going cost me more than I paid for it new.
OEM RAZER PHONE 2 RZ35-0259 REPLACEMENT USB_FLEX_C FLEX CABLE RIBBON CONNECTOR | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for OEM RAZER PHONE 2 RZ35-0259 REPLACEMENT USB_FLEX_C FLEX CABLE RIBBON CONNECTOR at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
blackhawk said:
OEM RAZER PHONE 2 RZ35-0259 REPLACEMENT USB_FLEX_C FLEX CABLE RIBBON CONNECTOR | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for OEM RAZER PHONE 2 RZ35-0259 REPLACEMENT USB_FLEX_C FLEX CABLE RIBBON CONNECTOR at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thank you for finding this, but it looks like the ribon connector wire only. The PCB besides the port also has the microphone, I think. It appears to be sold as a unit. If the problem is the wire, then sure this would be the part.
In any case, I have managed to get the wireless charger to charge. Depending on how fast the charge will be lost today will tell say something about the battery.
pensive said:
Ok, thank you for finding this, but it looks like the ribon connector wire only. The PCB besides the port also has the microphone, I think. It appears to be sold as a unit. If the problem is the wire, then sure this would be the part.
In any case, I have managed to get the wireless charger to charge. Depending on how fast the charge will be lost today will tell say something about the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm just saying keep looking. I was surprised at the apparent lack of availability though.
Meh I feel your pain...
Maybe one of the mainstream parts venders or buy a cheap Ebay one with busted display.
My Note 10+'s port PCB goes for $20, that surprised me.
blackhawk said:
If you have a bad usb port PCB I would replace it now.
They can cause a lot of mischief and in other services that you never expect it to.
The battery is cheap so it's easiest to replace it at the same time as you need to pull it anyway.
200 or more full charge cycles, replace.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately replacing the USB charge board and port in the phone doesn't always fix it. I have a box of nearly a dozen RP2 main boards I need to dig through to figure out what the actual cause of the charging boot loop
KaptinBoxxi said:
Unfortunately replacing the USB charge board and port in the phone doesn't always fix it. I have a box of nearly a dozen RP2 main boards I need to dig through to figure out what the actual cause of the charging boot loop
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you played with any OS shortcut apps on it?
The Android Setup apk will get screwed up if you access it after the original setup.
Specifically it will alter the port behavior when you connect with it. Very irritating, took me days to finally track it down on my 10+
If you clear it's data in settings it may leave the null mark that's screwing it up. Some 3rd party apps can completely clear that null mark.
Otherwise factory reset.
blackhawk said:
Have you played with any OS shortcut apps on it?
The Android Setup apk will get screwed up if you access it after the original setup.
Specifically it will alter the port behavior when you connect with it. Very irritating, took me days to finally track it down on my 10+
If you clear it's data in settings it may leave the null mark that's screwing it up. Some 3rd party apps can completely clear that null mark.
Otherwise factory reset.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a hardware issue, nothing any kind of reset can fix or app clearing. Even if you have the device entirely powered off, plug it in on anything 2Amp or higher, it'll loop
KaptinBoxxi said:
This is a hardware issue, nothing any kind of reset can fix or app clearing. Even if you have the device entirely powered off, plug it in on anything 2Amp or higher, it'll loop
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not how the issue I saw behaved; only happened with the device powered on and it didn't boot loop. Just an annoying pop up message.
If it has a port PCB, try replacing that. If it's just a charge port with no components on it... it's likely either corrupted firmware (reflash) or a mobo failure.
A loose connection or bad contact is also possible.
That's my guess...
Need advice from PPC-6700 folks on VZW XV6700. its currently wont take charge via the usb on bottom. i purchased new battery and most i get is phone turns on for few seconds and shuts off after it hit home page. and the light does not turn red when plugged in. it was working fine up until last week.
Maybe a bad usb port pcb. Could be a failed mobo.
Meh, bold type not needed...
Thanks for quick response. Im relatively new to diy with phones. is replacing the usb on this device something id be able to do myself? without possibly causing more damage.
Look at a tear down vid. It may not be the port pcb. You sure the battery is good and connected properly ie no bent connector pins?
No loose ribbon cable connectors?
historically that battery was never secure based off the design itslef. i may have bought dud battery... id need one more to test that theory. i have 8 different cords ive used and nada. its the old half octogon looking ones. they aren't prongs like the ones now.
I can open it up and send pic. Maybe you will see something I’m not..
You can see more than me. The port looks ok.
Finding out what common issues that device has may be useful.
For that device I'm not going to be much help other than the very basics.
Can you access the boot menu?
Use a known good power cable and charger; make sure they are good. Cables fail erratically and unpredictably.
Power it completely down and try letting it charge overnight.
ive been trying to sneak in but it shuts down if i try anything. plus i cant find one tear down video.. looks like i may be creating the first. ill sleep on it instead of jumping in half cocked.. ill give you update soon. thanks for your time.
tbh! i was gonna attempt to splice open old usb cord and bypass port using the wires directly to prongs? what you think
frontyak said:
tbh! i was gonna attempt to splice open old usb cord and bypass port using the wires directly to prongs? what you think
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Get a new cable preferably OEM.
You start splicing and get it wrong or if the cable is bad at a different point... you're trying to troubleshoot it, not start new trouble
Sounded better in my head lol. but the first cord that stopped working wa replaced and did great till now. ive rounded up 4 others from storage. non seem to catch. im trying not to order a 2nd new battery and cord. even plugged into pc or laptop it doesnt recognize anything.
frontyak said:
Need advice from PPC-6700 folks on VZW XV6700. its currently wont take charge via the usb on bottom. i purchased new battery and most i get is phone turns on for few seconds and shuts off after it hit home page. and the light does not turn red when plugged in. it was working fine up until last week.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have an HTC Apache?! Wow!
Welcome aboard!
HTC Apache: XV6700, PPC-6700
forum.xda-developers.com
Thanks for having me. I’ll check out link.
blackhawk said:
Look at a tear down vid. It may not be the port pcb. You sure the battery is good and connected properly ie no bent connector pins?
No loose ribbon cable connectors?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
anyone there? i managed to get it to screen that shows " serial up top and v 1.00"... ive left it alone because its not turning off and im hoping its accepting a charge now .
Back in business, I ended up just splicing a old usb cord connected + and - right into prongs for n back of phone and sliding battery in to hold it n place. 3 hours I’m at 80% juice. I’ll have to upgrade etc