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After a bit of searching I made a dock for my Nexus S and thought I'd show the results here.
I found out about polymer clay in this post (the thanks button is disabled for some reason...).
And I used the resistor values listed here, as some other threads showed they also worked with the Nexus S: Fun with resistors (home/car dock mode + more)
I ordered a Sparkfun microUSB breakout board, bought some resistors at a local electronics shop and four blocks of black Fimo clay at a nearby arts shop. I had the other supplies on hand:
-Soldering iron, solder, etc.
-Shrink wrap in various sizes.
-Hot glue.
-Aluminium plate.
-USB cable.
-Narrow and slightly rounded file.
-Box cutter or exacto knife.
I made the cable first (and did not take pictures at that time) and ensured that part worked before tackling the clay portion of the project.
I soldered one end of the resistor on the breakout board and the other directly on a stripped portion of the ground cable. The data wires remain functional as I am using a wall charger that properly shorts the D+ and D- wires to enable AC mode. I secured everything to the board with hot glue and finished off with shrink wrap.
This was my first time working with Fimo and it went well. I wrapped my phone in cellophane for a test fit along with the modified cable. The cable however isn't rated for the baking temperature so this was only temporary.
After baking, it turned out that I had misplaced the portion meant to hold the cable, so I snapped it off and made another with some left-over clay. The cured material can handle rebaking with no issues.
A bit of rework on the attachment point with a knife, test fit again, glue the board and file a notch for the buttons.
The phone slides in and out smoothly. I'm quite satisfied with the results.
Update: dock still works great. I've made one mod though: I took an old mouse pad, tore off the cloth on the top, cut a shape matching the dock's bottom, and hot glued the two together. This anti-skid pad means I can turn off the alarm or answer a call (which the phone answers in speakerphone mode right away) without inadvertently moving my phone on the nightstand.
Goodbye,
Darkshado
Wow really cool, and might have to try it.
Sent from my Nexus S 4G
nice work! I still have mine intact and it suffered some serious banging. Love your design too! Cheers.
a video of the process would be awesome for us noobs
Thanks for the feedback!
daudster: sorry, but its too late for a video. The good news is that there are plenty of good soldering tutorials out there.
This post by Fallon also has nice pictures that are very close to what I've done myself.
I started with the cable.
My "donor" USB cable was a standard compliant color coded affair. (Red Vcc, Black Ground, Green D+, White D-)
Checking with a multimeter to be safe is a very good idea.
Given the gauge of your typical USB cable wires and the breakout board's holes I suggest you presolder your wires.
Holding the stripped end of your wires with a sufficiently massive pair of pliers will make a nice heat sink to prevent melting the insulation when soldering.
Instead of doing like Fallon and placing the resistor above the breakout board, I soldered one pin on the board, the other on a stripped section of the ground cable "downhill" from the board. If you want to do it like this, make sure that you don't short your resistor with the ground cable. Then cover with shrink wrap.
Lousy ASCII art diagram below:
(Breakout board on the left)
ID--------R------\
GND--======---====
Depending on your exact design, this may not be necessary, but I opted to secure the small gauge wires to the board with hot glue, prior to covering with a larger diameter length of shrink wrap. While this cable's solidity might not be commercial grade, tugging on the cable by mistake would not risk as much damage.
Also a departure from Fallon's post is that I am using a Samsung OEM wall charger that shorts the Data wires in the charger itself, enabling AC mode, so no need to do it on the breakout board. My cable is confirmed working on the computer with both ADB and USB Mass Storage file transfer.
Test as you go to make sure none of your solders introduced unwanted short-circuits. (Fail to do this is and you could very well KILL your precious Nexus S or computer.)
Now, the Fimo part.
This was my first time ever working with Fimo and it turned out to be easy. As you work the material you heat it a little (friction) and it becomes a bit tacky to the touch so I worked on a small sheet of aluminium foil, wax paper might be better yet.
The aluminium plate is used for curing, as its much easier to handle with oven mitts and solid enough for this purpose.
Roll three blocks of Fimo in a sheet about 6-8 mm (¼") thick. With a blade, cut the excess on each side to end up with a properly sized rectangle for the back and bottom of the dock. These leftover bits will serve to support the back as well as the breakout board.
I kept my back flat, you may want to have it curved like the Samsung OEM one. Your choice, I chose flat because its easier to make and to simplify reuse with minimal modification when I'll change phones down the road.
The notch in the bottom for the buttons may be done before or after curing. Before, your fingers, a pen, coffee stirrer sticks or popsicle sticks all work. After, a rounded file or sandpaper.
My first breakout board support was misaligned so I had to break it off. For this reason I suggest you consider doing it in a second curing. This way your test fits are going to be much more accurate.
Most cables aren't rated for high enough temperatures to follow the Fimo in the oven for its curing. That's what lead me to making a support with a notch and using hot glue to finish the job. It's also flexible enough in case your alignment isn't perfect.
Goodbye,
Darkshado
Realy nice work
a quick sanding and molding would of gone miles to make it look normal!
i think that i'm going to try this!
thanks:good:
I know this post is quite useless. I just wanted to vent out my frustration.
I just got off the phone with a B&N rep after 20 minutes of talking--because the rep kept beating around the bush and kept placing me on hold--and was told that I needed to callback on Monday to get the tracking no. for my 2nd--yup, this happened twice before--USB cable replacement. Yup, it broke again like the first one I got included with the NC--SIMPLY BECAUSE OF IT'S POOR QUALITY.
In generic micro USB cables, you would notice that most of them are made of rubber material, especially the one covering the tiny metal tip that you insert on the device's USB port, which makes them quite durable. Even if you bend it intentionally multiple times, the metal tip will not be affected that much. Only downside is, it doesn't fast charge the NC. In my experience, it takes a day and a half (about 36 hours) to be able to charge the NC fully. And yup, my NC is now turned off for a week (and counting).
The NC's stock USB cable however is made out of a gloss plastic material, probably to give way to the LED? light indicator? Downside is, it gets cracked/chipped off easily whether it was done unintentionally or not, because of the plastic material not being 'hard' enough, and that's where most NC owners like me are getting pissed off.
You have to be very careful whenever you charge the NC--you need to make sure that it's on a flat surface, not on a surface where it can sink itself say for example, a foam bed, so that the cable will not 'sink' with it in and put pressure on the metal tip, finally chipping off the plastic coating.
Do you guys know of any alternative that can fast-charge the NC like it's stock USB cable? Does anyone have the ability to modify the NC's stock USB cable to coat it with rubber or something to make it more durable?
I'm sure there are others who are experiencing these things. Hope we can gather around and start a discussion about getting a permanent fix. Maybe rally at a local B&N store or something, I dunno.
Well, a cheap and quick bit would be to wrap it with electrical tape. If you have an electronics store or Radio shack carrying it, there is also something called shrink tubing. this is a rubberish tube that when carefully heated with a heat gun (not a blow dryer) or a lighter, will shrink down around wires, or plastic.
But, I am rather annoyed with this serious design flaw as well. Would be nice if B&N either recalled these cables with a properly designed one, or get a 3rd party available to handle that.
I was thinking of reinforcing the plug end of the cable by encasing it in a big wad of epoxy putty.
epoxy putty usually cures to something a bit too brittle for what this really needs. As the OP said, the plastic on the plugs are really way too brittle for what it's meant for. other than those things, the other option I can think of is some of that latex dip sold in some hardware stores, or sex shops. wrap the metal bit in tape, then give it a few dips, let it cure, then carefully cut the tape off. instant rubberized plug. could even carefully cut an indicator window for the charge light.
heat shrink tubing sounds best. will try that. you can get it from home depot or lowes. get the multiple size package. it is really best to use a heat gun. if you dont know what your doing and use a lighter you will burn right through the heat shrink.
It sounds like you might be looking for Sugru. It hardens to a rubbery flexible consistency. There's also a how to floating around the web on making your own using caulk and ...baking soda? I think?
For that matter, a flexible clear caulk might do the trick.
I was thinking that RTV silicone (downside is long cure time) or maybe hot melt glue would be worth a try. Either one would be translucent enough to see the LED color. The Sugru looks interesting, although opaque like heat shrink tubing.
You could probably use something like Scotch Coat (more or less liquid electrical tape..) or plasti-dip perhaps?
*I'm still waiting on my NC to arrive. So, I'm not sure exactly which portion of the connector you're talking about. If it's the entire outside portion that is typically metal... this is normally a chasis ground which equalizes the chasis potential between the NC and whatever it's plugged into..., and really shouldn't be coated with anything
I ordered this off Amazon with the intent of fixing several things in my house. I was going to use the clear for the tip of the charger.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JIEPU
I think the shame of it is that all they had to do was use a strain relief sleeve like one of there:
Using the shrink tubing-
1. make sure you get a size large enough to get around the connection end.
2. Measure out a length. you want at least from the bottom of the N light to about 1/2 inch past the nub where the cord goes into the connector.
3. Slip the tube into place
4. Using a heat gun or lighter, carefully shrink the tube into place (NOTE: with a lighter, keep the flame moving, don't let it linger too long or you'll melt something)
5. If the resulting reinforcement doesn't seem enough, feel free to add another layer or 2.
WHAT DOES THIS ACCOMPLISH?
Well, most of the failure pictures I have seen, as well as the failed cord of my own, it seems the plastic is too friable (meaning it cracks really easy) to handle the stresses put on it at that end. Most of the cracks and fractures take place below the N, towards the cable side of the connection.
By adding this, it not only adds a semi flexible reinforcement around where it likes to crack up, it also stiffens and immobilizes a stretch of the cable, relieving a little of the stress that can happen in that part.
While other things might do the trick, and even electrical tape could do, this tubing is about the best option I've seen so far.
Srilania said:
While other things might do the trick, and even electrical tape could do, this tubing is about the best option I've seen so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heat shrink tubing isn't a bad idea. I don't know how readily available it is in consumer stores and stuff... but I know I've used the Heat shrink tubing with the glue inside on quite a few connectors (higher end coaxial/heliax connectors tend to come with it). It's a bit thicker and more durable than typical heat shrink tubing, and the glue holds it solidly in place.
I used scotch tape. ugly, but it works.
Heat Shrink tubing shouldn't be too hard to find, most any electrical / hardware store should carry it, even Wal-mart will have it from time to time in the automotive section.
A better option may be plastidip. It gives a thick rubnery coating.
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
After having a Nook Color for less than 6 months, mine just broke this morning! I would do without the LED indicator for a durable rubber casing.
Imbroglio said:
I was thinking of reinforcing the plug end of the cable by encasing it in a big wad of epoxy putty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Epoxy works very well actually, but you need to put it on the inside, not the outside. Split open the plastic cover. Clean it up so it fits back together cleanly. Mix up a batch of translucent 5 Minute epoxy and completely fill the cavity with epoxy. Fit it back around the cable and secure it with a clip or clamp of your choice. A small binder clip works perfectly. After about 5 or ten minutes you can remove the clip and use an exacto knife to clean up the excess. Clamp it up again and
let it cure for 12 hours or so. Works well for me.
Triple wall heat shrink is just what you need. A heat gun (not a lighter, it won't work well) is the way to go. A hair dryer most likely won't have the heat needed.
I use the stuff in my home business and have tons of it...if you need some let me know!
I bent the male end that plugs into the nook unit... I Pressed the male end against a counter in my kitchen so it was bent back into place, put a few spots of super glue (the kind you get at the dollar store) and waited overnight for it to dry. good as new, no more wiggle or bend in my usb end.
Hi!
First, I'm sorry for English, I'm not professional.
A few days ago I made a working wireless charger for Motorola Droid 4.
What are the benefits?
People says, the original inductive charging cover is not compatible with most of cases.
Who live away from USA, can't use a wireless charger, becouse it is only available (officially) in the US. It is very hard to find on eBay or any other site. Almost impossible.
Very cheap. The original charging cover at US, Verzion is $29.99. (+ shipping, and need a person who ship it to me) It is only a cover, and we still need a charger as well.
So, I found a charging pad with and without receivers. There was a small problem. The receivers are only for Samsung Galaxy S3, S4 and Note. Their connectors aren't compatible with Droid 4, but the charging voltage is OK.
We need to take it to compatible with Droid 4. I looking for a long time, which one can I choose. Fortunately I made the right decision.
I bought that: Qi Inductive Wireless Charging Upgrade Kit for Samsung Galaxy S3
Link here
That is only for $30.10 with EU plug. The package include charging pad, usb cable, 1500mAh charger and S3 compatible receiver, and worldwide free shipping.
The size of receiver unit is compatible with free space of phone. We need some cutting but it isn't horrible.
First, I recommend you try, how fits the module in your phone.
Then mark with a felt.
The electrical connector pins are big, (and incompatible) we need to remove it carefully. I used a rework station with hot air (360°C) but you can use a medium sized soldering iron. I think, about 50-60W of power is enough. It took for about 30 secs per pin.
It is important, you need to place the receiver in such a manner, if you remove the back cover, the S3 and some other text need to be visible! Otherwise it will not work!
You see backside of the phone, and the camera is on top. Removed cover. In the right side, you can see four copper pins. The top row is irrelevant. We need tha bottom row. In the bottom row, on the left tere is the +5 V pin. On the right, there is a Ground pin.
We need to make contact between +5V pin of the phone and the +5V charging pin of the receiver unit.
Place the receiver unit to the phone, and see what size of copper wire you need. The lower pin of receiver unit is the +5V. We need to connect it.
I used a wire,1 mm in diameter. It is lacquered, I cycled down it from an electrical part (coil).
I think, that half millimeter in diameter is enough, but a found that, and it is recommended due to the relative high current (about 1A).
When you use thinner wire, you can easier take the cover to the phone.
So you need to solder wire to receiver's +5V pin. Please use the minimum quantity of soldering wire, becouse if you make a big knot there, you will have not enough place to take cover back.
When it is done, you can see how can you bend (or cut) the wire for best connectivity with phone's 5V pin.
Now you need to solder a wire to ground, like the previovus one, but not sure, that the two wore have enough space, and we can make easily short corcuit.
For this reason, we will use the iron cover of the SD card slot. This is a very good ground point.
So, one cable will go down, other is go up. They can fit and the soldering is more easy.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL! I recommend, before you make any electrical or hot operating you need to put an aluminium foil or an iron plate to top of the battery. I think to taking out battery and then in, is not easily possible, becouse after soldering there are the receiver. The battery can damage and explosive! The plastic parts of pohone can tolerate the heat for sort time! If you can not solder succesfuly, you need to wait while the parts cooling down! I recommend, use flux and/or high quality of soldering tin. Take out the SD Card! Please don't make short circuit!
It is not too difficult, but you need to be careful and attentive.
When the soldering done, you can try the charger.
Before you can take cover to phone, you need to cut the lower center of receiver. (you can see on the cover, exactly where. There are a claw and on the phone there ara a hole) Important! We need all of holes on phone, so the wires must not hang in to holes.
I cut the piece of receiver unit from lower left side, at the speaker.
Thats all. We are done. I think it longer to read than make :cyclops:
I made some pictures, I will mark these and upload in short time.
I'm going to measure the charging time with:
1,5A USB charger (direct cable)
1,5A USB charger with wireless charging pad
1,5A USB charger with wireless charging pad (phone in a 1 mm thickness of Trident case)
0,5A standard laptop USB (direct cable)
0,5A standard laptop USB with wireless charging pad
0,5A standard laptop USB with wireless charging pad (phone in a 1 mm thickness of Trident case)
I use that from 3 days ago. It works correctly. By the factory, the charging current is 1000mA with the 1,5A charger. About 66% of efficiency.
The USB charger's stand by consumption is 0,4W.
When the charging pad is connected and it is in stand by mode, the consumption is 0,98W
I'm going to bring images, and refresh the post, but here (Hungary, GMT +1) the time is am 2:31.
Good luck guys!
---------------------------------
Uploaded images,
here are the original, better quality images. (11.5MB zip)
That great way to charge the phone. i know that my usb plugin is getting a little wore out.......glad to know that there another way to charge up the phone in case of emergency. Congrats.
Hi,
thanks, it works for me
My IQ receiver was a bit higher, or the battery, so I had troubles to fit it in. My solution was to cut every superfluous piece and pull the uper layer of slide away. Additionally, I put it a bit nearer to the camera, The last thing was to horizontally cut the gold contacts and solder the wire directly on them.
During charging, the usb charger+pad+droid 4 use 7W, without the droid 4 the pad+charger draw 0,4W, both measured at the primary side ot the charger.
Best regards,
mifritscher
Thanks for the info, looks promising I love your using Micro SD casing as GND
BTW the pad + receiver can be found at eBay for as low as US $12 Gonna try out for myself soon.
Did you get to measure the charge times?
LuH said:
Thanks for the info, looks promising I love your using Micro SD casing as GND
BTW the pad + receiver can be found at eBay for as low as US $12 Gonna try out for myself soon.
Did you get to measure the charge times?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Charging times are about equivalent
Different approach, same result
Hi, thanx 4 the great idea.
I took a different approach to install the charging pad. I felt not comfortable to solder directly to the phone, so I used copper-tape, capton-tape and some short wires I took from old headphones to mod the pad directly into the back cover of my phone. it got a little bit bumpier (half a mm), but it charges perfectly.
I applied some solder to the ends which connect to the pins, so the copper wont oxidize and the connection has more pressure.
The pictures in better quality:
View attachment goodquality.zip
zuloo.de said:
Hi, thanx 4 the great idea.
I took a different approach to install the charging pad. I felt not comfortable to solder directly to the phone, so I used copper-tape, capton-tape and some short wires I took from old headphones to mod the pad directly into the back cover of my phone. it got a little bit bumpier (half a mm), but it charges perfectly.
I applied some solder to the ends which connect to the pins, so the copper wont oxidize and the connection has more pressure.
View attachment 2842634
View attachment 2842635
View attachment 2842636
The pictures in better quality:
View attachment 2842637
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a nice solution, and pretty much how the "real thing" was probably set up. I noticed that the back has an internal indentation where the pins are to accommodate the connector, and I had experimented with how I might fit a charging pad in there (actually, it was the connectors that I saw as the biggest challenge), but didn't manage to get anything that I thought was robust enough (I was using cut down parts of a SIM card for the pins to make contact with - you look to have done a better job with the copper tape.
I'm really surprised that we can't buy a new back with all of this gubbins already installed - perhaps you should manufacture a few?
mugen 3800mAh inductive charging cover required!!!
i'm tempted to try this myself. the droid4 keeps getting better.
i just experimented with cardboard, seems to have plenty of room between the cover and the battery. i definitely need inductive charging.
Update 2016
@zuloo.de
Hi! I copied your method for wireless charging but I was too lazy for soldering. That is why I used only copper tape. I ordered under 5$ charging pad and receiver for Galaxy S3 (cheap from China) and it is working good. My receiver says that it can output only 0.8A so I guess it is little bit slow. Can you tell your feelings about the heat? I think that my Droid 4 is pretty hot but I never used wireless charging on other phones so I don't know if it is normal. But thanks anyway posting your method :good:
Here is pictures. I tried to take picture about the bump. It is not bad but you can feel it.
Hi guys,
here my solution of active cooling
Components
- battery: CM5095-WE (MicroUSB in/out) or any other 5V battery
- Fan: Delta EFB0612MA (60x60x10mm, nominal 12V (running at 5V), soldered to microUSB female connector)
- Fixing: velcro strip
Result
- no noise
- no vibration
- low weight
- no need to remove back cover of the Note 4 (tested with Mugen 6640mAh extended battery)
=> no overheating :good:
Good luck
reik o)
works perfect
excellent job done, Bro
...rebuild your solution -to be honest it doesn't look as good as yours, but it does an excellent job.
Tested about one and a half hours nonstop gaming without any warnings or overheating issues.
Being driven at 5V, the 12V FAN is rotating in super-silent mode, to be heard only in absolutely silent environmental conditions.
No need of removing back cover off the phone. Due to the constant airflow, the Note4's overall surface temperature is less then handwarm.
I didn't expect that much high efficiency for this simple crafting.
Just wondering why Samsung didn't implement it on GearVR from the beginning
ThX to reikow and keep up the good work
sincerely
Dr.Schall
Is this exhausting the air out or blowing it into the device?
it is blowing the air to the device.
Thanks for this post. Modded my unit also. Makes a big difference.
Definitely works miracles! Now the Gear VR can run until the battery dies without having to cool down after 15 minutes or so of running.
I'm sorry drilled, my standard cover. Instead, 3D print of the cover.
Looks way nicer than mine, but it works..... GPU centrifugal fan with 2s 850mah lipo battery...
Can be run off battery or any usb charger. Moves air throughout the whole unit and also prevents fogging issue. No vibration, hardly any weight, and keeps a nice breeze on your face
reikow said:
Hi guys,
here my solution of active cooling
Components
- battery: CM5095-WE (MicroUSB in/out) or any other 5V battery
- Fan: Delta EFB0612MA (60x60x10mm, nominal 12V (running at 5V), soldered to microUSB female connector)
- Fixing: velcro strip
Result
- no noise
- no vibration
- low weight
- no need to remove back cover of the Note 4 (tested with Mugen 6640mAh extended battery)
=> no overheating :good:
Good luck
reik o)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How is the fan cable connected? Does a micro usb have 3 wires like the fan does?
highlordkram said:
How is the fan cable connected? Does a micro usb have 3 wires like the fan does?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can anyone tell me how the micros usb cable attaches to the fan wires? What wires did you solder, as the fans usually have 3 wires. Does the micro usb also have 3 and what ones match up?
reikow said:
Hi guys,
here my solution of active cooling
Components
- battery: CM5095-WE (MicroUSB in/out) or any other 5V battery
- Fan: Delta EFB0612MA (60x60x10mm, nominal 12V (running at 5V), soldered to microUSB female connector)
- Fixing: velcro strip
Result
- no noise
- no vibration
- low weight
- no need to remove back cover of the Note 4 (tested with Mugen 6640mAh extended battery)
=> no overheating :good:
Good luck
reik o)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for this great idea. I completed mine a while ago and was playing for over 45 minutes and the phone did not even get warm to the touch. I used a longer USB cable so that the battery does not have to be on the visor itself but can sit in the chair or couch next to me
highlordkram said:
Can anyone tell me how the micros usb cable attaches to the fan wires? What wires did you solder, as the fans usually have 3 wires. Does the micro usb also have 3 and what ones match up?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
usually the fan has a plus/minus and a separate one to return back the speed of the fan. Just try them to make sure spins in right direction - look up which pins on the usb you need! You can't really hurt the fan if you try wrong - so just try them!
sbaeder said:
usually the fan has a plus/minus and a separate one to return back the speed of the fan. Just try them to make sure spins in right direction - look up which pins on the usb you need! You can't really hurt the fan if you try wrong - so just try them!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. I got the mod done already and all working Great. Played Herobound online for over an hour and no overheating at all. Used a long usb cord, so I can put battery on my side and not weigh down the headset. Also used hot glue gun on fan, over hole in visor plate, and worked out very nice.
Solutions I've seen here on XDA or on Youtube seem to be bulky, require soldering and often modifying the protective case in some way.
I open this to debate, as the cleanest Gear VR cooling mod seen so far. WITH DOUBLE FANS.
Look it up and feedback is welcome!
Link: http://forum.xda-developers.com/mob...b-fan-powerbank-gear-vr-t3358754#post66731816
Ezzine said:
Solutions I've seen here on XDA or on Youtube seem to be bulky, require soldering and often modifying the protective case in some way.
I open this to debate, as the cleanest Gear VR cooling mod seen so far. WITH DOUBLE FANS.
Look it up and feedback is welcome!
Link: http://forum.xda-developers.com/mob...b-fan-powerbank-gear-vr-t3358754#post66731816
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like it, but won't it still heat up more than the cover modified type of mod, due to not pulling in the room temp air from outside of the case cover?
There are six wide enough air intakes/exits (roughly 50mm high and 300mm wide).
Two on the sides and four spread upwards and downwards within the design of the protective cover itself.
I only gave it a first run with a movie and a heavy 3d game yesterday for about two hours so of course it went smoothly. No fogging (fogging was present even in the movies before) and no heating warnings during the game.
I'll let you know after more usage and hopefully if I have time with longer usage sessions.
It does though make a tiny winy bit of hiss due to the two fans blowing close to each other. But that doesn't bother me as I often have earphones or headphones on (you only notice the air hiss sounds when you take the earphones off).
This video shows how big are the in-design air intakes/exists that we all have with our protective cover.
https://youtu.be/kXPEArWpgm0
Sent from my SM-N910F using XDA-Developers mobile app
I bought a DK48 dock to charge my Z3 Compact as I did not want to faff around with the usb port cover.
After docking and undocking about 5 times the charging pins fell out. They were held on with doubled sided tape which clearly is not up to the task.
After reading an old thread and poll I do not want to send it to Sony as it should be an easy fix and not worth the time and money for them to stick it back on with some more tape.
Does anyone know how the internal pins should look? They do not appear to be symmetrical on my phone and I am concerned that they are damaged. If I hold the pins into the phone with a magnetic charging cable the phone does start to charge but If I go ahead and superglue/araldite the pins back in I might not get a good contact and then theres no going back.
What do you guys think would be the best way to fix the charging port?
Thanks in advance.
As a follow-up, I used Loctite Hybrid Glue to glue the pins back into the phone.
1. Prepare the surfaces by cleaning them with a cotton bud.
2. Apply a small amount of water to the surfaces to active the glue.
3. Apply a small amount of glue to the back of the pins being careful to not coat the contact blades.
4. Inserted the pins into the phone whilst connected to a charging cable and held it in place with an thick elastic band.
5. Waited a full 24 hours for the glue to set and now the charging port is solid.
Thanks to polar_bay for recommending the glue and method.
When I tested for a hermetic seal using GPS Status or Barometer+ to check the pressure reading I got a much more positive result (+0.4hPa) than I did before the pins came out. So that suggests the phone is now more waterproof than it was before.