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Just reading up on USB chargers, and I found somewhere in a thread here about phones defaulting to smaller ma when charging via USB if the connector didn't have the data pins shorted or something.
So, I was wondering a couple of things:
1) If the default charger supplies 700ma, do you think that is the most the Nexus S can draw? Does anyone have one of these shorted USB chargers? Does it charge the NS faster?
2) If it does charge faster, how hard would it be to do something similar to shorting the data connections? I have a generic AC-USB cable which I currently use for my iPod touch.
3) Is there a way to check if it is already shorted out? The USB charging port looks similar to ones on my computer, but I'm not sure what to look for.
Thanks for any help! Maybe if we can sort out this stuff, we can provide a solution for those looking for faster charging!
it does work safely, i'm using a 1000 mAh charger at home, and a 2000 mAh charger in the car both are from aftermarket eBay/DealExtreme charges.
no overheating
and charges faster than stock
AllGamer said:
it does work safely, i'm using a 1000 mAh charger at home, and a 2000 mAh charger in the car both are from aftermarket eBay/DealExtreme charges.
no overheating
and charges faster than stock
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Click to collapse
Ok thankyou for that AllGamer, I'll think of possible ways I could mod the charger now
The only reason it is slow is because of the USB charging brick instead of just a charger.
Sent from my Nexus S using XDA App
I know it's a wrong thread, but anyone has any pointers as to how to short a regular USB cable to make the phone think it's a power adapter cable?
XBOHDPuKC said:
I know it's a wrong thread, but anyone has any pointers as to how to short a regular USB cable to make the phone think it's a power adapter cable?
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Nah it's not the wrong thread that was one of my questions! I'm not sure exactly where you would do it, but maybe if you skinned the wire, then cut the data lines it would work?
Not sure which end you would do it on however, but that may not matter. Any other ideas?
The two center pins in the USB carry the data. If you pull them out, the cable won't be able to connect to the computer.
Sent from my Nexus S
Wow - you don't need to do this and you wouldn't want to in a computer anyway.
The USB specification says that 500ma (@ 5v) of current should be available from a computer's USB port. Of course, the actual wires can carry much more than this, so manufacturers can tell their phones to takes as much current as is offered.
Almost all computers limit their USB power output accordingly - this is why some opld usb-powered external hard drives needed 2 USB plugs to get enough power. The only computers that I am SURE emit significantly more than 500ma on their USB ports are first and second generation MacBook Airs.
Some phones, the N1 and every other HTC specifically, look for a specially shorted cable to "know if they are plugged into the wall adaptor" as opposed to a computer USB port. In reality, this is just a way to make you specifically buy HTC chargers as opposed to third-party off-brands, because plugging one of these phones into an off brand charger will limit the current draw to about 450ma.
If you want to know if your Android phone thinks that it is in "USB" mode or in "AC" mode, just plug the phone in, open the dialer, enter *#*#4636#*#* and then select battery info. If your phone is one that cares (not all do), it will say USB if it thinks it should be in USB charging mode, or AC if it thinks it should be in AC charging mode.
I would not try shorting out the middle pins in a cable and then plugging it into the computer. First, most will probably just disable the USB port completely, shutting off even power you could draw. Second, if it doesn't shut down, you run the risk that a badly-built USB port might not properly limit the current to 500ma - and since they are not designed to furnish more current than that, you might melt something expensive or start a fire. third, if you make a mistake, you risk shorting out either your phone or your computer, which might ruin your day, week or month, depending on your financial means to replace the system that cooks itself.
I would just run out to your local store, pay 15 bucks for a 2A third-party usb charger brick, and go to town. That will work perfectly - this is what I use, and it probably cuts the charge time by 30-40%. Obviously, this indicates that the NS is not capable of drawing a full 2A - I have not put a meter on it, but I would bet that it limits itself to somewhere just under an amp in.
I have recently bought both a 2A wall charger and car charger and my phone does not recognise either of these as anything more than a 500mA source.
Is it really just a case of opening the car charger up and shorting out pins 2 & 3? they are currently not connected to anything in the charger.
If it's indeed a matter of shorting the data lines, then I think you can skin the wire as suggested by others, but then cut the data lines, short the end that leads to the phone, leave the end to the computer open. I think it's the phone that tries to determine whether the data lines are shorted.
Edit: Can someone measure the continuity between the data pins with the stock charger? I wonder if they are shorted. I'm still waiting for my Nexus S to arrive, so can't test it.
Yup, the data lines in the stock Nexus S charger ARE shorted.
I just modified a cheap 1A car charger by popping it open, soldering the 2 data lines together and putting it back.
The report on the Nexus S before I did this (*#*#4636#*#*) said "USB", and afterwards it now says "AC".
I will report back after I make a road trip if this improves the GPS + Pandora + Screen in car situation. I suspect it will.
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Yup, the car charger seemed to actually maintain and increase the battery this time. Seems good.
The NS supports chargers output to a max of 1000mA, as it says on the back of it, where the battery resides.
I am very annoyed about the charging abilities of the gnote cause when it's charging It continues to use power only from the battery, can't even take out the battery that the phone turns off while connected to the charger.
This leads to the battery discharging even when connected to the charger under heavy load usages such as playing 1080p through MHL, at least to me that happens, I wonder if same thing happens to other gnote owners? (I tried a 2A charger with the MHL and it doesn't discharge as fast, but still does, and I haven't tried yet cause i didnt find the Y cable on sale to do it, but i wanna get a Y microusb cable to connect 2 chargers at same time, one to MHL device and another to the gnote to see if that helps).
So i was doing some light reading on the gnote's smb328 charger circuit and according to their diagram (and from what I understand of it and their datasheet, I can be wrong ofc) the system should indeed be able to be powered by the charger alone.
The smb328 has a missing battery detect function and loads of settings that can be programmed on the fly through the kernel (I think) and through a windows program.
Now i don't know if it's that missing battery function or some other similar thing that doesn't allow the phone to remain on while connected to charger without battery, but whatever it is I guess if that could be circumvented it would also mean that the phone would also be powered by the charger instead of the battery alone.
So does anybody more knowledgeable in these things know if there's any setting to change the behaviour of the charger circuit to allow removal of battery while connected to charger or simply allow the system to be powered at the same time by the charger and battery so that under heavy load circumstances the battery wouldn't actually discharge?
Or is it the way that Samsung physically assembled the hardware that doesn't allow it?
Just throwing and idea to the air, but could a mod, like shunting 2 of the battery's pins or something similar allow to share the charger's power to the system?
Regarding the windows summitmicro smb328 program, you think it would have access to the smb328 circuit in the gnote if we tried?
Hi Elusivo,
I'm busy to fix my Note's charging circuit and R619 seems to be shorted. I've bveen all over and cannot seem to get the value for this register.
The datasheet I found from he summit site (from your link) does not help at all. Do you have a data sheet with an application note which specifies this value?
Help will be appreciated
Dion
Quick question. If you leave your phone plugged in and its fully charged and your using it, is the phone just leeching off the charger for power or is the charger pushing out small bursts of power to the battery. The context of my question is i'm starting to use webtop alot and I leave my phone on all day plugged in. Is continuing this behavior going to impact my battery or does the phone just leech directly off the charger without using the battery?
It's fine to leave it plugged in all the time. The phone has a "smart circuit" that use what is called trickle charge to just continually top off the battery as it drops below full charge. The phone is designed such that it doesn't receive power directly from the charger or USB cable, unless the +5v DC current is on pin 1 like a factory flash cable.
Bottom line is there is no damage or shortening of the life of the battery to leave it charging all the time while in the dock or any other means and Li Ion batteries no not have memory problems.
On a related note, is there any damage in using low-power chargers?
I have an external solar-powered battery charger that also supports USB-out, and I find that it doesn't put out enough power to really charge the battery, but it can keep the battery at its current charge level (whenever it is plugged in) for the equivalent of one charge (so the phone could theoretically last 2ish days).
I'm wondering whether this is constantly charging/discharging the battery (bad thing), or just providing enough power to run the phone (good thing).
I've also seen a similar behavior when charging over USB. If I'm using the phone a lot, sometimes a usb port doesn't supply enough juice to charge the phone.
I also saw this in some (rarer) cases with my OG Droid, but I didn't pay it much mind because I had 3 batteries for that thing and you could pick them up for a few dollars off of Amazon.com.
Thanks!
cellzealot said:
It's fine to leave it plugged in all the time. The phone has a "smart circuit" that use what is called trickle charge to just continually top off the battery as it drops below full charge. The phone is designed such that it doesn't receive power directly from the charger or USB cable, unless the +5v DC current is on pin 1 like a factory flash cable.
Bottom line is there is no damage or shortening of the life of the battery to leave it charging all the time while in the dock or any other means and Li Ion batteries no not have memory problems.
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Thank you so much for your response. I had a feeling it was something like this. Good old "smart circuit".
podspi said:
On a related note, is there any damage in using low-power chargers?
I have an external solar-powered battery charger that also supports USB-out, and I find that it doesn't put out enough power to really charge the battery, but it can keep the battery at its current charge level (whenever it is plugged in) for the equivalent of one charge (so the phone could theoretically last 2ish days).
I'm wondering whether this is constantly charging/discharging the battery (bad thing), or just providing enough power to run the phone (good thing).
I've also seen a similar behavior when charging over USB. If I'm using the phone a lot, sometimes a usb port doesn't supply enough juice to charge the phone.
I also saw this in some (rarer) cases with my OG Droid, but I didn't pay it much mind because I had 3 batteries for that thing and you could pick them up for a few dollars off of Amazon.com.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To my knowledge, there is no reason a low power charger should present any problem, but charging from the USB on a PC is limited to 350mA and will definitely not push enough current to charge the phone while it is under heavy use like Mobile Hotspot tethering with LTE or even 3g.
The standard wall charger is 850mA and even that can sometimes only keep up or charge very slowly under heavy load.
USB spec is [email protected] not 350mA. But yes, a dedicated charger probably will charge faster. Some may go as high as 1A output...
Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk
has anyone been able to tell which pogo pins are to charge and which is for media as im looking to create my own dock
i know its a long shot but could come in handy
Check this thread. Scroll down because a few posts have pictures, too.
thanks dude :'] still stumped seeing as his having trouble charging
so iv worked it out now the top pin is red i put the red and black is goes on the 4th pin only thing is it dont charge it only time you can tell is when its turned off it trys to start it to charge iv only tryed with a usb so far but im going try from mains later
edit. from running the cable from mains it still dont charge altho from the battery menu it changes from discharging to not charging so im not sure where to go from there. does anyone know where i should look
COuld be it is only designed to power the device and not charge it. Absurd I know but it is a possibility. Also I know some devices needed some info from the charger before it would charge. Could be it is requesting if it is a official dock etc in order to charge.
possible only way i could find out whats what if i had the dock -.- dam money
Might be that the pogo pins are turned off in software for now, until an update enables them.
Most likely the power you were supplying to the pins wasn't enough. Are you sure you applied 5V? How much current were you pumping? The battery, charging pins, and system board/electronics are all in parallel so you need to make sure you were pumping more current than drawn by the electronics. There may also be circuitry that prevents backflow when you use a weak charger.
I've been having a repeatable problem. I have a Note 9 that will charge faster when I disable fast charging under battery settings. I tested the load being drawn with a USB Power meter these are the results I got.
Using a USB-A to USB-C cable:
When QC is enabled:
Phone draws 0.5amp charge, 10ohms resistance at 5.02V.
When QC is disabled:
Phone draws 1.2 amps, 3.9 ohms resistance, at 5.02V
I am using the same cable, same power bank. The power bank's USB-A port is able to draw ~1.9 amps at 5V, tested using a USB Meter and Load Tester that will put the USB under 1 amp and 2 amp loads at 5V, with resistance being ~2.7 ohms without the power bank turning off. I haven't tested the power bank at 9V, I don't have a 9V load tester
When I immediately switch from QC to non QC, the results above are repeatable.
Things I Have Done So Far:
Reboot Phone
Clear Phone Cache
Reboot Into Safe Mode
Try Different Charging Cables, Blocks, including OEM parts.
Every once in a while, it will switch back to being able to QC fast charge but it is random.
If I use a Power delivery capable block charger, it will charge at ~2750mA (I dont have other numbers like amps, voltage, or resistance, I'm still waiting on a USB-C meter)
My phone's wireless charging has no problem operating at it's max capacity
Any one else have this problem? Anything else I could do before I factory reset my phone?
I posted about losing Fast Charge thru the stock cable a while back and got no answers or a fix. I have not tried turning off the option to see if it charges any faster. It takes almost 2 to 3hrs to fully charge at this point. I'll take any fix or work around at this point.
TokedUp said:
I posted about losing Fast Charge thru the stock cable a while back and got no answers or a fix. I have not tried turning off the option to see if it charges any faster. It takes almost 2 to 3hrs to fully charge at this point. I'll take any fix or work around at this point.
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Click to collapse
Turning off fast charge made my charging a bit better. With Fast Charge (FC) turned on, I was getting 0.5amps (gave around 400-500mA). Turning FC off, sped up my charging by 50%, charging at 1.2 amp (roughly gave me 800-1000mA; Both charges were at 5V). Im able to charge at around 1000 mA with this setup, a little less than wireless quick charge. No idea why turning it off helped.
Another workaround that brought my charging speed WAY UP, to 2500mA, was buying a Power Delivery (PD) capable block WITH A USB-C to USB-C cable. I can get normal fast charging speeds with that setup.
I cant get FC with USB-A to USB-C cables, which is frustrating as most of my charging blocks are the regular USB-A input port.
Hope this helps you. 2-3 hour charge is brutal.
What's even weirder is in my car my phone would barely charge. But since I lost FC at home, it started working in the car. So in my car I can FC but not at home. I even tried the wire I use in the car and still nothing. Idk what is going on
Is it possible that turning off QC is turning off a regulation in the software to keep the battery from overheating? With this regulation turned off that would normally be on when quickcharging, the regulation is not active, thus causing the battery to charge at a less regulated speed, causing charging to be faster? Maybe there's a QC bug currently that's hampering it's full potential? What software version are you guys currently?
I just checked QC on mine on the latest Xfinity version and no matter what charger or cable I use with the function, it is working.
It's def not a software thing. I'm on latest October patch. Samsung told me that they have seen some issue with the charging port and once it goes bad there is nothing to do but replace it. They told me to bring it in to a store for repair thru my carrier. Haven't had a chance to go.
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Jammol said:
Is it possible that turning off QC is turning off a regulation in the software to keep the battery from overheating? With this regulation turned off that would normally be on when quickcharging, the regulation is not active, thus causing the battery to charge at a less regulated speed, causing charging to be faster? Maybe there's a QC bug currently that's hampering it's full potential? What software version are you guys currently?
I just checked QC on mine on the latest Xfinity version and no matter what charger or cable I use with the function, it is working.
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Click to collapse
That what I was thinking. Something is actively limiting the charge coming in. Everytime I had quick charge enabled I've been monitoring the ohms and the resistance would automatically jump to 10ohms. Then I disable QC and the resistance automatically drops to around 6 ohms.
I'm running Android Pie 9.0, Kernel version 4.9.112
TokedUp said:
It's def not a software thing. I'm on latest October patch. Samsung told me that they have seen some issue with the charging port and once it goes bad there is nothing to do but replace it. They told me to bring it in to a store for repair thru my carrier. Haven't had a chance to go.
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Click to collapse
Nocturncal said:
That what I was thinking. Something is actively limiting the charge coming in. Everytime I had quick charge enabled I've been monitoring the ohms and the resistance would automatically jump to 10ohms. Then I disable QC and the resistance automatically drops to around 6 ohms.
I'm running Android Pie 9.0, Kernel version 4.9.112
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Click to collapse
Yeah it could definitely be hardware related as well, due to each pin on a type c charging serving different purposes. There are two specific pins(I think it's two), that are responsible for enabling higher input of electricity. Couple years ago Google made comments about the cheap Amazon knock off cables and why they failed after a short while. Wouldn't surprise me if Samsung cheaped up for the cables and port on the device. I'll have to try and find the articles I read concerning the pins.
Here's a good start to understanding Type C.
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/te...pe-c-which-pins-power-delivery-data-transfer/
Its the **** cable they supply with the phone.
I had all the same problems.
I noticed that when I turn off quick charge the phone can charge at 5v 1.7 amps. (USB doctor).
When I turn on quick charge it can only charge at 5 volts 0.40 amps.
The phone is trying to charge at 9 volts but for some reason cant so it goes into this safe mode.
I purchased a new Samsung cable it lasted for a week and developed the same problem.
A hint when it develops this problem Dex stops working.
I tried all kinds of cables. One Plus 5, and a few others. I finally got it to work again with my wifes one plus 6 cable.
Im now researching USB Type C ports and USB standard 2, 3, 3.1, 3.2
As well the quick charge tech used by Samsung. Its not Quick Charge 2. Its a proprietary standard.
So if your having problems with quick charge it could be due to your cable or your Port. Things very rarely go wrong with the charger. Also get yourself a USB Doctor. Its a big help. And only costs a few bucks.
Hope this helps somebody out there.
Right now I am trying to compare Note 9 vs Note 20 USB cable.