has anyone been able to tell which pogo pins are to charge and which is for media as im looking to create my own dock
i know its a long shot but could come in handy
Check this thread. Scroll down because a few posts have pictures, too.
thanks dude :'] still stumped seeing as his having trouble charging
so iv worked it out now the top pin is red i put the red and black is goes on the 4th pin only thing is it dont charge it only time you can tell is when its turned off it trys to start it to charge iv only tryed with a usb so far but im going try from mains later
edit. from running the cable from mains it still dont charge altho from the battery menu it changes from discharging to not charging so im not sure where to go from there. does anyone know where i should look
COuld be it is only designed to power the device and not charge it. Absurd I know but it is a possibility. Also I know some devices needed some info from the charger before it would charge. Could be it is requesting if it is a official dock etc in order to charge.
possible only way i could find out whats what if i had the dock -.- dam money
Might be that the pogo pins are turned off in software for now, until an update enables them.
Most likely the power you were supplying to the pins wasn't enough. Are you sure you applied 5V? How much current were you pumping? The battery, charging pins, and system board/electronics are all in parallel so you need to make sure you were pumping more current than drawn by the electronics. There may also be circuitry that prevents backflow when you use a weak charger.
Related
Well I'm at about 2% battery life, and it will not charge. I'm using my computer to charge it. Charging it from the wall hasnt worked for me for a while, not sure why.
Anyway I was wondering what it can be? I doubt my battery's dead or something is wrong with the phone... I'm sorry if this question's been answered, but I couldnt find an answer on google.
If USB charging works, but not charging with the AC adapter then the adapter is either bad, or plugged into a bad power outlet.
Nope it's neither of those because Ive tried two working AC ountlets and two warking cables. However, that's not my problem, my phone died and I can't charge it :-/
Ya so the phone died. It didn't look like it was going to charge on the USB, really weird. Anyone ever have there phone refusing to charge? While it was alive I tried to run activesync; that didn't work. So what should I do?
Btw, I've had the phone for a couple months now and I haven't had any big problems. I don't think it can be my phone failing, worst case just the battery. I've had something similar before but it fixed itself, doesn't look like thats happeneing now.
Battery
Maybe charging from the computer wasn't such a good idea. I recommend changing the battery and the charger and always be a nice boy and charge from the outlet ::- ).
I had the same thing happen to me - the connector at the bottom was broken. I had to do a return to factory. I looked (using a magnifying class) at the bottom of the phone and clearly see a crack in the connector.
It doesn't charge from the outlet.... I kinda just explained that lol
jrd said:
I had the same thing happen to me - the connector at the bottom was broken. I had to do a return to factory. I looked (using a magnifying class) at the bottom of the phone and clearly see a crack in the connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm my connector does look a little bent. However it would of had to be like this before, and it was charging until I let my battery get to 5% :-/
I had a similar problem with my Kaiser a couple of weeks ago - it started to crawl and a soft reset took over 15 minutes to come back up to a working state, after which the battery wouldn't charge. It definitely wasn't the charger at fault as that still works on my TyTN. Phone was about 3 months old, so called Vodafone UK who seemed to think it was software related and so provided next day swap out. Old battery works in the new handset so never did get to find out if it was hardware or software that caused it to die.
Here's what probabally happened... you meant to stick you stylus in the reset hole and accidently put it in the usb hole... thus bending your charging port. I did it and when I plugged it into my car it would actually discharge the battery.. but when I plugged it into an outlet it just wouldn't charge.. if I were you I'd go see if it charges in a car
I appear to have a similar issue when charging from PC usb, and have identified that if I put pressure up or down on the charger it will charge the kaiser. But if plug in the charger without applying directional force it will not charge. Currently i have a small weight resting on the mini USB chargin input.
So obviously something up with the connector. But I haven't jammed anything up the usb port to my knowledge. Are these ports really that flimsy?
Tilt owners: If charge mechanism breaks, is ATT cool?
Oh no, now I can't charge or sync my Tilt.
My power is slowly running out.
What do I do? This is covered by manufacturers warranty in a year, is
ATT going to take my Tilt back and give me a new one?
I need my phone to be working and working well.
Thoughts?
axonn said:
Maybe charging from the computer wasn't such a good idea. I recommend changing the battery and the charger and always be a nice boy and charge from the outlet ::- ).
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Click to collapse
Charging from the computer should be better than the wall, given that the USB ports on the computer have a 5.5v output, while wall chargers have 5v.
I have a friend who is visting the US (I'm from Canada) and I asked him to pick me up a nook. Not finding clear info in some of the reviews, mainly concerned about charging.
This charges over usb when hooked up to your computer right? Just want to make sure it doesn't use a proprietary cable for charging. I read on the ipad side, that older computers don't give out enough power to charge over usb, is that an issue with the nook?
What adapters/cables does it come with exactly? And is it just a standard mini-sub for the charging?
Also, this has a headset jack correct? I've read no bluetooth, I guess there's no way to get a mic working on this then.
Micro USB, will charge VERY slowly using a computer. Includes a 2amp wall socket and special cable to quick charge (still micro usb, just more pins). Has a headset port but does not come with a headset.
I've only had a few mobile devices. I read the ipad can charge over usb if the mobo supports giving out that extra juice. Some mobo's have a new firmware update to enable this.
The connector is micro-usb but just more pins. Hmm. so if the cable breaks or I misplace it no other micro-usb will charge it?
edit: i read a little more and found that it's 30 pin proprietary cable to speed up charging. I also read the galaxy tab does something similar.
Does anyone know if they use the same pin configuration? probably not, but I can get tab usb cables here.
I know you didn't ask for it but I'll tell you anyway
In case you are worrying about registering your device (mandatory at initial setup).
I'm NOT in the US and it worked fine.
Good to know. Thanks.
But I'm more concerned about charging it and relying solely on their cables.
I read the ipad can trickle charge on newer computers but some wouldn't provide enough power. Asus et al have released utilities to increase the power to the usb ports.
I can't post the links but endgadget has an article about it providing links to those utilites. They just talk of apple devices but does this work with the nook?
It comes with a charger for US-type sockets and only if you charge your nook with this (and yes, it is proprietary ) it'll charge quickly. It does seem to charge when you connect it to a standard PC USB port but at an extremely low rate.
On the device Micro-USB (not Mini) is used.
You say it does seem to, do you mean from personal experience? How slow? It sounds like that if you do own one it was so slow you didn't let it finish.
Like if it's 8hrs overnight, I can live with that, but I want to confirm that there is a plan b and not solely rely on their cables.
And as I mentioned asus and others released utils to give more power output to the usb (although these seem like their were only created for ipads). Wondering if those utils speed things up.
for ex, google asus ai charger to see what I mean.
I received my nook Color a mere few hours ago so I can't tell you a lot about its charging behavior It "seems" to load slower via standard USB... if you want to know about the details check one of the large threads on the NOOK and its rooting. I remember reading some information about the USB connector and its peculiarities there.
Ah you just got it. I see.
I found this on the root thread:
'
"There are 12 pins coming off the connector. It looks like there are no pins for the standard micro USB portion, only the extended 12 pins. 2 pins are used to bring in +5V, 2 pins are for signal ground providing a hefty circuit for the 2A charging. USB takes up two pins, and as far as I can tell 2 more are for each LED via current limiting resistors. Two more pins go to discretes that I haven't identified, and two more pins are unconnected. I'll take my scope to them when I have some time."
Not sure what he means when he says no pins for the standard micro portion...
Maybe the plug doesn't have standard USB pins, but the NOOK itself does have standard USB pins as well as the proprietary ones. Because I have trouble inserting the original B&N plug, I went out earlier today and bought a standard Micro USB cable...
I connected it to the nook and it said "not charging", so I went out to do some shopping (10-20 minutes max) and left it at 89%... when I came back it was at 93 %.
So it DOES in fact seem to charge albeit slowly.
Thanks. It's weird, lots of comments of its own cable not fitting properly.
As long as it charges with a normal cable I'm good.
I guess it is charging... however there is a slight chance, that it's NOT charging and the battery charge display is lying (de-calibrated). I don't think so, but I'll only know for sure after a few more days of using only the standard USB charger cable.
Just reading up on USB chargers, and I found somewhere in a thread here about phones defaulting to smaller ma when charging via USB if the connector didn't have the data pins shorted or something.
So, I was wondering a couple of things:
1) If the default charger supplies 700ma, do you think that is the most the Nexus S can draw? Does anyone have one of these shorted USB chargers? Does it charge the NS faster?
2) If it does charge faster, how hard would it be to do something similar to shorting the data connections? I have a generic AC-USB cable which I currently use for my iPod touch.
3) Is there a way to check if it is already shorted out? The USB charging port looks similar to ones on my computer, but I'm not sure what to look for.
Thanks for any help! Maybe if we can sort out this stuff, we can provide a solution for those looking for faster charging!
it does work safely, i'm using a 1000 mAh charger at home, and a 2000 mAh charger in the car both are from aftermarket eBay/DealExtreme charges.
no overheating
and charges faster than stock
AllGamer said:
it does work safely, i'm using a 1000 mAh charger at home, and a 2000 mAh charger in the car both are from aftermarket eBay/DealExtreme charges.
no overheating
and charges faster than stock
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thankyou for that AllGamer, I'll think of possible ways I could mod the charger now
The only reason it is slow is because of the USB charging brick instead of just a charger.
Sent from my Nexus S using XDA App
I know it's a wrong thread, but anyone has any pointers as to how to short a regular USB cable to make the phone think it's a power adapter cable?
XBOHDPuKC said:
I know it's a wrong thread, but anyone has any pointers as to how to short a regular USB cable to make the phone think it's a power adapter cable?
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Click to collapse
Nah it's not the wrong thread that was one of my questions! I'm not sure exactly where you would do it, but maybe if you skinned the wire, then cut the data lines it would work?
Not sure which end you would do it on however, but that may not matter. Any other ideas?
The two center pins in the USB carry the data. If you pull them out, the cable won't be able to connect to the computer.
Sent from my Nexus S
Wow - you don't need to do this and you wouldn't want to in a computer anyway.
The USB specification says that 500ma (@ 5v) of current should be available from a computer's USB port. Of course, the actual wires can carry much more than this, so manufacturers can tell their phones to takes as much current as is offered.
Almost all computers limit their USB power output accordingly - this is why some opld usb-powered external hard drives needed 2 USB plugs to get enough power. The only computers that I am SURE emit significantly more than 500ma on their USB ports are first and second generation MacBook Airs.
Some phones, the N1 and every other HTC specifically, look for a specially shorted cable to "know if they are plugged into the wall adaptor" as opposed to a computer USB port. In reality, this is just a way to make you specifically buy HTC chargers as opposed to third-party off-brands, because plugging one of these phones into an off brand charger will limit the current draw to about 450ma.
If you want to know if your Android phone thinks that it is in "USB" mode or in "AC" mode, just plug the phone in, open the dialer, enter *#*#4636#*#* and then select battery info. If your phone is one that cares (not all do), it will say USB if it thinks it should be in USB charging mode, or AC if it thinks it should be in AC charging mode.
I would not try shorting out the middle pins in a cable and then plugging it into the computer. First, most will probably just disable the USB port completely, shutting off even power you could draw. Second, if it doesn't shut down, you run the risk that a badly-built USB port might not properly limit the current to 500ma - and since they are not designed to furnish more current than that, you might melt something expensive or start a fire. third, if you make a mistake, you risk shorting out either your phone or your computer, which might ruin your day, week or month, depending on your financial means to replace the system that cooks itself.
I would just run out to your local store, pay 15 bucks for a 2A third-party usb charger brick, and go to town. That will work perfectly - this is what I use, and it probably cuts the charge time by 30-40%. Obviously, this indicates that the NS is not capable of drawing a full 2A - I have not put a meter on it, but I would bet that it limits itself to somewhere just under an amp in.
I have recently bought both a 2A wall charger and car charger and my phone does not recognise either of these as anything more than a 500mA source.
Is it really just a case of opening the car charger up and shorting out pins 2 & 3? they are currently not connected to anything in the charger.
If it's indeed a matter of shorting the data lines, then I think you can skin the wire as suggested by others, but then cut the data lines, short the end that leads to the phone, leave the end to the computer open. I think it's the phone that tries to determine whether the data lines are shorted.
Edit: Can someone measure the continuity between the data pins with the stock charger? I wonder if they are shorted. I'm still waiting for my Nexus S to arrive, so can't test it.
Yup, the data lines in the stock Nexus S charger ARE shorted.
I just modified a cheap 1A car charger by popping it open, soldering the 2 data lines together and putting it back.
The report on the Nexus S before I did this (*#*#4636#*#*) said "USB", and afterwards it now says "AC".
I will report back after I make a road trip if this improves the GPS + Pandora + Screen in car situation. I suspect it will.
----------------
Yup, the car charger seemed to actually maintain and increase the battery this time. Seems good.
The NS supports chargers output to a max of 1000mA, as it says on the back of it, where the battery resides.
So i messed up my phone...and it won't get past the motorola screen when you turn it on...i figured out how to fix it however my battery is too low to do it...so i plug it into the wall and again it just turns on to the motorola screen and thats it and it doesn't seem like its charging....does it not charge when its at this point?
jpen said:
So i messed up my phone...and it won't get past the motorola screen when you turn it on...i figured out how to fix it however my battery is too low to do it...so i plug it into the wall and again it just turns on to the motorola screen and thats it and it doesn't seem like its charging....does it not charge when its at this point?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=892026
Your battery is too low to flash, but you can't charge because it can't get to the screen. Trust me, was there two nights ago.
Check that thread, find an old USB cable (I used a USB to USB A mini, worked fine). Took a couple times to strip it, lost about 4 inches in it because of it. Worked like a charm. The issue you'll find is you'll need to strip about 1/4 of an inch of cable (exposed wire). from there, you'll need some tape. Take it and follow (red to +, black ground to -). You'll fail about 6-7 times where one wire slips out. Then from there, jam that sucker into the back and try to get it so it'll rest right under the camera area. That should be enough force for them to connect and then you can get into fastboot since you'll have +5V direct flow.
jpen said:
So i messed up my phone...and it won't get past the motorola screen when you turn it on...i figured out how to fix it however my battery is too low to do it...so i plug it into the wall and again it just turns on to the motorola screen and thats it and it doesn't seem like its charging....does it not charge when its at this point?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure about the bionic...but when i fked up my DroidX like this, it would charge when i left it off and plugged in. Don't even turn it on, leave it off and plug it in and wait a min to see what it does (my X came up with a battery screen). I left it for a lil bit to charge, then ran an sbf through it.
My understanding is you can apply more than the max the phone was designed for, 5V at 850mA, to the USB connection. I am just a little weary of what I apply directly to phone innards. There isn't really documentation on what the circuit can handle.
I have a connection I could use that pushes a bit more current.
What is the maximum current you can apply directly to the phone's battery connection terminals? Will 4.5V at 1.5A be okay? Do I have to find an old USB wire and run the standard old 5.1V at 500mA from my computer?
/*Edit: If the 1.5A is too much, and I ran that in series with the battery, (IE, stuffed the wires into the battery terminals, and jammed it into the phone) would that be okay? */
I am very annoyed about the charging abilities of the gnote cause when it's charging It continues to use power only from the battery, can't even take out the battery that the phone turns off while connected to the charger.
This leads to the battery discharging even when connected to the charger under heavy load usages such as playing 1080p through MHL, at least to me that happens, I wonder if same thing happens to other gnote owners? (I tried a 2A charger with the MHL and it doesn't discharge as fast, but still does, and I haven't tried yet cause i didnt find the Y cable on sale to do it, but i wanna get a Y microusb cable to connect 2 chargers at same time, one to MHL device and another to the gnote to see if that helps).
So i was doing some light reading on the gnote's smb328 charger circuit and according to their diagram (and from what I understand of it and their datasheet, I can be wrong ofc) the system should indeed be able to be powered by the charger alone.
The smb328 has a missing battery detect function and loads of settings that can be programmed on the fly through the kernel (I think) and through a windows program.
Now i don't know if it's that missing battery function or some other similar thing that doesn't allow the phone to remain on while connected to charger without battery, but whatever it is I guess if that could be circumvented it would also mean that the phone would also be powered by the charger instead of the battery alone.
So does anybody more knowledgeable in these things know if there's any setting to change the behaviour of the charger circuit to allow removal of battery while connected to charger or simply allow the system to be powered at the same time by the charger and battery so that under heavy load circumstances the battery wouldn't actually discharge?
Or is it the way that Samsung physically assembled the hardware that doesn't allow it?
Just throwing and idea to the air, but could a mod, like shunting 2 of the battery's pins or something similar allow to share the charger's power to the system?
Regarding the windows summitmicro smb328 program, you think it would have access to the smb328 circuit in the gnote if we tried?
Hi Elusivo,
I'm busy to fix my Note's charging circuit and R619 seems to be shorted. I've bveen all over and cannot seem to get the value for this register.
The datasheet I found from he summit site (from your link) does not help at all. Do you have a data sheet with an application note which specifies this value?
Help will be appreciated
Dion