I need to connect to one of the ribbons connectors on the to of the board but I can't figure out how to "open" and "close" the connector.
Thanks
Which pi are you using?
Typically that brown piece infront of the ribbon cable is a T shape, just use the screw driver to push the top corner of the T outwards from the connector.
Not sure if that make sense...
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
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I picked up this color changing USB hub from Radio Shack for $5 and it has a storage area that fits an HD2 perfectly.
I can't post a link so just google "Radio shack color changing 4 port hub" and you'll find it.
After looking at the nice fit I thought it would be easy to put a usb cable in the bottom of the compartment, so I could use it as a docking/charging station.
It's only held together by one screw in the storage compartment and then a couple pieces of double stick tape, so it was easy to open up. After taking it apart I held the phone next to it and marked where the USB port on the phone was using the dry marker that came with it. It had to be placed in the front corner of the storage compartment because of the circuit board directly underneath that storage compartment.
After marking it out I used a dremel rotary tool to put a hole in it, but I think a drill bit would have worked just as well. Then I put the USB jack in the hole so that it stood about a half inch off the bottom of the storage compartment. I took a sharp knife and trimmed those ring like pieces of plastic on the back of the usb jack off so that it was possible to put a 90 degree bend in the cable to fit it in the hub. Then I also put a small hole in the back edge and ran the cable out and plugged it into the hub.
It fits well with the stock rubber cover on the phone, or no cover on your phone, but I don't think it would fit very well if your case was much bigger than the stock case.
The dry marker that comes with the hub doesn't fit in the hole any longer, and you can't reach the buttons on your phone, but the button problem could be fixed by having the jack stand 1" off the bottom instead of the 1/2" I used.
Great job!!
Cool! Could you please measure the opening dimensions? I'm wondering if my HD2 in Otterbox Defender might fit inside?
Nice, if only we could get them in Australia.
Thx outstanding mod/hack. On my way to rat shack today thanks to your brilliant idea
Sent from tin can with string.
After a bit of searching I made a dock for my Nexus S and thought I'd show the results here.
I found out about polymer clay in this post (the thanks button is disabled for some reason...).
And I used the resistor values listed here, as some other threads showed they also worked with the Nexus S: Fun with resistors (home/car dock mode + more)
I ordered a Sparkfun microUSB breakout board, bought some resistors at a local electronics shop and four blocks of black Fimo clay at a nearby arts shop. I had the other supplies on hand:
-Soldering iron, solder, etc.
-Shrink wrap in various sizes.
-Hot glue.
-Aluminium plate.
-USB cable.
-Narrow and slightly rounded file.
-Box cutter or exacto knife.
I made the cable first (and did not take pictures at that time) and ensured that part worked before tackling the clay portion of the project.
I soldered one end of the resistor on the breakout board and the other directly on a stripped portion of the ground cable. The data wires remain functional as I am using a wall charger that properly shorts the D+ and D- wires to enable AC mode. I secured everything to the board with hot glue and finished off with shrink wrap.
This was my first time working with Fimo and it went well. I wrapped my phone in cellophane for a test fit along with the modified cable. The cable however isn't rated for the baking temperature so this was only temporary.
After baking, it turned out that I had misplaced the portion meant to hold the cable, so I snapped it off and made another with some left-over clay. The cured material can handle rebaking with no issues.
A bit of rework on the attachment point with a knife, test fit again, glue the board and file a notch for the buttons.
The phone slides in and out smoothly. I'm quite satisfied with the results.
Update: dock still works great. I've made one mod though: I took an old mouse pad, tore off the cloth on the top, cut a shape matching the dock's bottom, and hot glued the two together. This anti-skid pad means I can turn off the alarm or answer a call (which the phone answers in speakerphone mode right away) without inadvertently moving my phone on the nightstand.
Goodbye,
Darkshado
Wow really cool, and might have to try it.
Sent from my Nexus S 4G
nice work! I still have mine intact and it suffered some serious banging. Love your design too! Cheers.
a video of the process would be awesome for us noobs
Thanks for the feedback!
daudster: sorry, but its too late for a video. The good news is that there are plenty of good soldering tutorials out there.
This post by Fallon also has nice pictures that are very close to what I've done myself.
I started with the cable.
My "donor" USB cable was a standard compliant color coded affair. (Red Vcc, Black Ground, Green D+, White D-)
Checking with a multimeter to be safe is a very good idea.
Given the gauge of your typical USB cable wires and the breakout board's holes I suggest you presolder your wires.
Holding the stripped end of your wires with a sufficiently massive pair of pliers will make a nice heat sink to prevent melting the insulation when soldering.
Instead of doing like Fallon and placing the resistor above the breakout board, I soldered one pin on the board, the other on a stripped section of the ground cable "downhill" from the board. If you want to do it like this, make sure that you don't short your resistor with the ground cable. Then cover with shrink wrap.
Lousy ASCII art diagram below:
(Breakout board on the left)
ID--------R------\
GND--======---====
Depending on your exact design, this may not be necessary, but I opted to secure the small gauge wires to the board with hot glue, prior to covering with a larger diameter length of shrink wrap. While this cable's solidity might not be commercial grade, tugging on the cable by mistake would not risk as much damage.
Also a departure from Fallon's post is that I am using a Samsung OEM wall charger that shorts the Data wires in the charger itself, enabling AC mode, so no need to do it on the breakout board. My cable is confirmed working on the computer with both ADB and USB Mass Storage file transfer.
Test as you go to make sure none of your solders introduced unwanted short-circuits. (Fail to do this is and you could very well KILL your precious Nexus S or computer.)
Now, the Fimo part.
This was my first time ever working with Fimo and it turned out to be easy. As you work the material you heat it a little (friction) and it becomes a bit tacky to the touch so I worked on a small sheet of aluminium foil, wax paper might be better yet.
The aluminium plate is used for curing, as its much easier to handle with oven mitts and solid enough for this purpose.
Roll three blocks of Fimo in a sheet about 6-8 mm (¼") thick. With a blade, cut the excess on each side to end up with a properly sized rectangle for the back and bottom of the dock. These leftover bits will serve to support the back as well as the breakout board.
I kept my back flat, you may want to have it curved like the Samsung OEM one. Your choice, I chose flat because its easier to make and to simplify reuse with minimal modification when I'll change phones down the road.
The notch in the bottom for the buttons may be done before or after curing. Before, your fingers, a pen, coffee stirrer sticks or popsicle sticks all work. After, a rounded file or sandpaper.
My first breakout board support was misaligned so I had to break it off. For this reason I suggest you consider doing it in a second curing. This way your test fits are going to be much more accurate.
Most cables aren't rated for high enough temperatures to follow the Fimo in the oven for its curing. That's what lead me to making a support with a notch and using hot glue to finish the job. It's also flexible enough in case your alignment isn't perfect.
Goodbye,
Darkshado
Realy nice work
a quick sanding and molding would of gone miles to make it look normal!
i think that i'm going to try this!
thanks:good:
I thought I saw a thread about this a long time ago but search as I might I can't find it again. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had a link to an OTG cable that angles...well...down if the N7 is in landscape mode with the camera on the left side? I've ordered 3 and they all angle up which really doesn't work well in a case or anything since the "hinged" side is generally on the left.
Hopefully this makes sense. LOL
Alternatively, does anyone have a link where you can buy the male MicroUSB connector? I've tried Amazon, Monoprice, and even Radio Shack (that's desperate) and can't seem to locate this part.
Thanks!
here is the one i have.. You must also get a micro a usb to a usb female adapter.. Not sure i ordered from the same company but i know it was over seas.. i bough them as a set one up angle one down angle..
that is term.. down angle micro a usb cable... Be careful that you do not end up with a usb mini which is a b type connector..
micro a down . look close at the picture so the flat part of the connector port is to the top . which is the back side of the plug. ok that all sounds confusing but . well here is the link..
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_kw=down+angle+micro+usb+cable
One more thing.. Make sure its a 5 pin if its not usb. just slit the wire carefully and cross pin 4 and 5 will turn it into otg. Or use a otg connector at the end... This is what i did.I pluged my otg connector into this.. and its stil flat to the back of device..
erica_renee said:
here is the one i have.. You must also get a micro a usb to a usb female adapter.. Not sure i ordered from the same company but i know it was over seas.. i bough them as a set one up angle one down angle..
that is term.. down angle micro a usb cable... Be careful that you do not end up with a usb mini which is a b type connector..
micro a down . look close at the picture so the flat part of the connector port is to the top . which is the back side of the plug. ok that all sounds confusing but . well here is the link..
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_kw=down+angle+micro+usb+cable
One more thing.. Make sure its a 5 pin if its not usb. just slit the wire carefully and cross pin 4 and 5 will turn it into otg. Or use a otg connector at the end... This is what i did.I pluged my otg connector into this.. and its stil flat to the back of device..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think the down angle would work. Basically, when plugged in, I want it to angle to the left side of the device. It seems most angle to the right. Then I could actually put the cable and flash drive inside the case and out of the way so it would be more "permanent" when I'm out and about.
I'm all for angled cables, but the down angle one doesn't excite me. I was much happier with this style cable:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Left-angled...=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item23243a6e6a
This isn't an OTG cable, but I use this in my car so the cable is tucked away neater. I had the same confusion when trying to figure out if I needed left or right. I ended up buying both because my phone is one way and the Nexus 7 is the other, so I knew that was a win/win. Prior to realizing that I just hit up Google image search and looked for a larger picture of each one... then tried to envision how it would plug in accordingly.
Hmmm. Mine faces "down" when the camera is on the right side. The smart case folded behind from the top.
I got mine from Amazon for my Galaxy Nexus a while ago.
Those listed above from eBay are wrong. Those would actually attach front to back (screen to back housing) and would be awkward IMO.
Mine attaches and the cable slides down the lining of the trim. I got it from Amazon.
Here is what you want. Take note of the micro USB port:
http://www.dcscsi.com/product/1040.html
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app
My otg comes straight out but I have 3 adaptors. With the N7 in portrait, one lead will go left, one right and one backwards, all came from eBay.
Hi all,
I almost perfectly repaired my HTC One M7 but whilst taking it apart some tape snagged on one of the connectors and ripped the cable out of the snap/pop connector. I have some high res pics here, best I could do...
http://imgur.com/a/VVCrR
I think all but one ofthe pins are there, but some are pushed down so the cable can't split them to fit inbetween. I can't find a magnifying glass to try and part them carefully at the mo but will look tomorrow.
If I can get them apart and get the cable to fit I imagine I could solder a wire or somehow get the missing pin to connect?
Any ideas?
hi there i just manage to broke that part that kept the ribbon from the digitizer connected, and i cant find it anywhere, is there any beloved soul that could help me out? the board is fully functional, is such a waste to trash it just cause of a digitizer clap part thanks a lot
Maybe a piece of duct tape to hold it in. Lengthwise onto the cable, connect the cable, and pull on the tape a bit before sticking to the board.
Thin piece of cardboard to wedge in to hold the ribbon cable tight
Sent from my Nexus 6 using XDA-Developers mobile app