Does anyone know if its possible to change what each buttons function is? Same with the steering wheel buttons ? The buttons works fine but i would like to change some of them. I have a canbus decoder box on the HU. Under the the setting "Steering wheel control" nothing shows up when i press a button. I can see on the screen when i open a door and the control for fans etc. is also showing on the screen so i guess the canbus is ok
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I am also interested about this, especially I would like to reverse the functions of the physical keys next/previous, next to the volume wheel.
In the factory settings menu, I've put the flag on the "SWAP CANBUS NEXT PREV", but it only affects the wheel on the steering ...
I have a MTCB radio, but I think there are no differences about this... I can confirm that even in my case the wheel study configuration doesn't seem to work
daverock said:
I am also interested about this, especially I would like to reverse the functions of the physical keys next/previous, next to the volume wheel.
In the factory settings menu, I've put the flag on the "SWAP CANBUS NEXT PREV", but it only affects the wheel on the steering ...
I have a MTCB radio, but I think there are no differences about this... I can confirm that even in my case the wheel study configuration doesn't seem to work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes i got the same thing. The wheel study config doesn't seem to work. Nothing show up in there. And if i go under Steering wheel controle, same thing. Nothing show ups. I have triede to contact my seller but doesn't seem they want to reply to my questions regarding this.
Is your unit a "MX" version?
almera020 said:
Is your unit a "MX" version?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I have an old MTCC-KLD6-V2.97 800*480
almera020 said:
Does anyone know if its possible to change what each buttons function is? Same with the steering wheel buttons ? The buttons works fine but i would like to change some of them. I have a canbus decoder box on the HU. Under the the setting "Steering wheel control" nothing shows up when i press a button. I can see on the screen when i open a door and the control for fans etc. is also showing on the screen so i guess the canbus is ok
Hi,
I have a never system V5754 and my issue is that the section of buttons you have marked with the red box are not powered at all!!! There are 4 connectors to this front panel (ESP, Parking sensor, AC control and one for power I guess) and If I understand correct all these connections come directly from old cable harness. But in the new HU there seem to be one, single pin connector (a big connector) which dose'nt seem to connect anyhwere? Do you any experience in this part?
Also I see this wierd window down icon on the dash display (driver section). I have set the Canbus to 05_GM (Raise).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
vinai_cv said:
almera020 said:
Does anyone know if its possible to change what each buttons function is? Same with the steering wheel buttons ? The buttons works fine but i would like to change some of them. I have a canbus decoder box on the HU. Under the the setting "Steering wheel control" nothing shows up when i press a button. I can see on the screen when i open a door and the control for fans etc. is also showing on the screen so i guess the canbus is ok
Hi,
I have a never system V5754 and my issue is that the section of buttons you have marked with the red box are not powered at all!!! There are 4 connectors to this front panel (ESP, Parking sensor, AC control and one for power I guess) and If I understand correct all these connections come directly from old cable harness. But in the new HU there seem to be one, single pin connector (a big connector) which dose'nt seem to connect anyhwere? Do you any experience in this part?
Also I see this wierd window down icon on the dash display (driver section). I have set the Canbus to 05_GM (Raise).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same issue, with the radio buttons (as in your picture) with my opel asta j 2010 and a new android 9.0 unit.
I have connected those 4 cables as you mentioned, and I too have that single pin connector from the new harness, that I did not connect to anything. Please see below 3 pictures with how it looks:
I have the same issue, with the radio buttons (as in your picture) with my opel asta j 2010 and a new android 9.0 unit:
I have connected those 4 cables as you mentioned, and I too have that single pin connector from the new harness, that I did not connect to anything.
Did you manage to solve the issue? I have not changed anything in the factory settings (canbus settings) yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi ciumetele,
I for help from Minakurah and he suggested me to follow this procedure.
i cant see your pictures but i had the same problem. There is one cable left you didnt plug in.
Its a single brown cable with a big fat cube at the end. You have to put this cable back behind the head unit display and plug it with the cable which plug is black with a white corner. This cable is normally plugged to the display of old CD400 system.
Then everything is fine and all your problems solved at once.
ciumetele said:
vinai_cv said:
I have the same issue, with the radio buttons (as in your picture) with my opel asta j 2010 and a new android 9.0 unit.
I have connected those 4 cables as you mentioned, and I too have that single pin connector from the new harness, that I did not connect to anything. Please see below 3 pictures with how it looks:
I have the same issue, with the radio buttons (as in your picture) with my opel asta j 2010 and a new android 9.0 unit:
I have connected those 4 cables as you mentioned, and I too have that single pin connector from the new harness, that I did not connect to anything.
Did you manage to solve the issue? I have not changed anything in the factory settings (canbus settings) yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Related
Anyone used the brodit car mount for this?
It looks like it allows the x1 to slide out the keyboard which means it grips between the screen and keyboard, is ti going to put stress on the X1 sliding mechanism (whe closed I can imaging it pushes the screen away from the keyboard as It's between them).
Also, It seems daft to me that the phone slides in vertically and then you turn it sideways and plug in the mini usb cable, it should be landscape in the first place and you slide the phone in on it's side and it could have the mini usb as part of the cradle... Anyone know a mount like this?
This is their mount:
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and this is what I'd like to see:
Thanks,
- Anthony
This is the very car mount that I'm looking at getting. I've had a Brodit mount before and it has rotation for the grip so you can choose which way around to have it. Chances are that I'll have it permanently in landscape as TomTom7 VGA landscape looks lovely.
Yeah, it'll be a good mount, but I'm just used to sliding in my phone and not having to pluig in a seperate cable for charging it (see how I added the usb charger to the photoshop I did?), I suggested it to brodit and they said no...
I just bought myself one of these, seems like a very good solid product so far.
It does indeed slide between the two 'halves' of the phone, it's a pretty snug fit but not too snug and it's on a ball and socket style joint so you can have the phone in any orientation you can think of!
I have one of these too and the bit where the phone slides in is very well precision machined so the phone slides in nicely but wont fall out. Landscape works fine and there is no danger in the phone falling out.
i mostly used tomtom in portrait mode as I think its more functional that way - more interested in whats ahead of you than to the sides and the status bar takes up too much of the screen real-estate in landscape mode.
Yes the power connector is annoying, and I found it fidly to get in at first, no I am used to it though I can insert the connector easily. I guess this is a draw-back in putting the connector on the side of the phone.
Although I can hear tomtom ok I find that using speaker phone in the mount is hard to hear somtimes, I think the speaker may be obscurred by the mount slightly, I might try drilling a hole in the mount to see if it makes any difference.
I'm using this mount and I love it. I like how the phone rotates so the keyboard is sliding down, so that the USB port is actually facing down, so its actually more convient to plug in the car charger. also makes texting on the go easy too but garmin displays nicely. Only thing I'm working on is either connecting the phone to my headunit for the phone speaker or getting bluetooth for my deck. I tried using the phone with speaker phoen while driving and its just not loud enough.
I too use this mount, I had to purchase a 2nd back piece as I had to move it from one car to another, but then ended up not using it because where it mounted is right where I put the switch for my DVD bypass, I instead ended up just screwing the X1 mount directly to the dash underneath the switch, It still came out looking pretty clean tho. If I had to guess, I'd say that they won't make a mount like the one you requested because the back part of the X1 mount with the wires in it I'm sure is used in as many different phone mounts as they can get away with. Making a new part specifically only for one phone would probably not be cost effective for them until the X1's sales approach Iphone levels.
That being said, I feel the need to show off a little, so here's a couple pics of my install:
The line in jack is coming out of the 6th (dummy) button and runs to the back of the radio. I'm considering shortening the power wire so I don't have to wrap it around the mount to keep it neat.
I'd be very interested to see how other people have integrated their X1's into their vehicles.
Hi,
Just picked one of these up and fitted to my existing Brodit mount over the air vents.
Whilst I have tightened up the screw holding the holder to the mount unit to make swivelling tighter it still rotates smoothly from portrait to landscape positions.
Phone fits in sweet as a nut although I have on a couple of times turned the camera on!
I think it is excellent. The only minor concern maybe the use of a non SE charger unit and I can see the battery getting quite warm!!
Des. . .
trinode said:
and this is what I'd like to see:
Thanks,
- Anthony
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd like to see this too!
I don't want to plug in a seperate USB plug and in the way anthony suggests it isn't necessary either.
it's a shame Brodit didn't pick up this idea as they make good car holders in general
Hopufully some other manufacturer will pick up the idea soon...
I've gone through a few BT keyboards with Android tablets over the last couple of years, and I think I've found the perfect one for the N7:
Perixx PERIBOARD-805, $30 at Amazon
It folds to about 6x3.5" and about 1/2" thick, just a little smaller than the N7's active screen area and about as thick as my landscape stand case when folded. When unfolded, it's kind of small compared to a fullsize or even a standard laptop keyboard, but is still easy to touch type on. The split down the middle is a little awkward at first since some of the keys down the middle have been stretched to fill the gap, but not a problem after a few minutes. It's a full laptop style layout similar to the Apple tenkeyless keyboards, with F1-F10, two sets of CTRL and ALT, ~, ESC, and \ in the right places. The arrow buttons are wedged between "/" and right Shift which looks funny but hasn't been a problem. The FN button also activates a bunch of Android and iOS specific keys, like media/volume controls, lock, wake, home, and search.
Everything seems to work as expected in a terminal (AirTerm and ConnectBot) except I can't get the PGUP/PGDN to work in the terminal (FN-arrow up and down), though they work fine in Google Drive. Not the end of the world, and probably something that editing the keymap can fix.
Keys have decent travel (1.35mm I measured) with a sharp tact for something so cheap, and use a scissor mechanism so they don't wobble much at all. The caps aren't curved, which is the trend for chiclet keyboards. It flexes a tiny bit if you pound on it, but much less than many laptops I've used.
It has two buttons on the inside right: one to power on/off, and one for pairing. You hold the power button for 3 seconds to power it on, then the battery and BT LEDs blink a few times to let you know it's alive. Turning it off is done by holding it for a second or two, but there's no indication that it turned off other than the dropped connection on the N7. I'm not sure if there's an auto power off or how long the battery should last as the manual kind of sucks and I've only had it for a day. It does not turn off when you close it, but if it's like most BT keyboards I've used it sips power until you are actively using it so it might not matter.
It's powered by an internal Li-Ion pack, and charges with micro USB. Not sure on battery life yet, but it's nice to know I don't need to carry an extra charger or AAAs. It ships with a short USB-A to micro USB cable that most of us probably will never open, but a nice touch anyway. It can be charged with the case open or closed, and the charging point is right near the ESC key so that it faces away if you want to charge it while using it.
Unfolded, the case rests on 8 feet: the four surrounding the hinge are bumps in the plastic, and the ones at the corners are rubber to prevent slipping on a desk. When folded, the case has a glossy hex pattern on top of black matte plastic, which is a nice change from plain black gadgets while not being too flashy. It feels sturdy enough to take some abuse at the bottom of a backpack.
Anyway, if none of the other keyboard options are doing it for you, and you want something very portable, get one of these.
Pics:
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Thanks fo the tip, good review!
Might be time to get a keyboard
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
when typing, how long is the delay from when you press a key until it shows up on the tablet?
I've always wondered this with bt keyboards
thanks in advance
Aw man I wish I was able to order from the American Amazon site for deals like this. Curse you Canadian Amazon store and your lousy product selection!
alexjzim said:
when typing, how long is the delay from when you press a key until it shows up on the tablet?
I've always wondered this with bt keyboards
thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's unnoticeable. In the few BT keyboards I've used this has never been a problem. I wouldn't use it for serious gaming, but if you're of that bent you're not using anything wireless anyway.
Sometimes it takes a few seconds for the keyboard to wake up and connect if it's been idle for a while (usually minutes to hours).
help me please
I would like to connect my car stereo to me
On a 12 Volt power supply
But I can not get the job does not light up
It is this model the ----> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wkze3S3ZJk
How do they turn on the radio at home ??
In my car it lights up, but not at home on a transformer of 12 Volts
Thank you for your help please
Titof3b
titof3b said:
help me please
I would like to connect my car stereo to me
On a 12 Volt power supply
But I can not get the job does not light up
It is this model the ----> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wkze3S3ZJk
How do they turn on the radio at home ??
In my car it lights up, but not at home on a transformer of 12 Volts
Thank you for your help please
Titof3b
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Connect red+yellow wires to the +12v and black wire to the - of your power supply.
tipouce said:
Hi,
Connect red+yellow wires to the +12v and black wire to the - of your power supply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Little more than that....
One of those colored wires (red or yellow) will probably be THICKER than the other. That one should be PERMANENTLY tied to +12. Put an on-off switch on the other.
tipouce said:
Hi,
Connect red+yellow wires to the +12v and black wire to the - of your power supply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, and thank you very much to answer me
It's not that simple.
It is a car radio for mercedes with canbus
And I think the problem is this canbus
I have no yellow thread!
On my quadlock i
Pinout 9 small brown thread
********** 10 nothing
********** 11 small brown / red thread
********** 12 thick brown thread -
********** 13 (2) yellow / black wire
********** 14 nothing
********** 15 large red thread +
********** 16 small blue / black thread
thank you !
titof3b said:
Hello, and thank you very much to answer me
It's not that simple.
It is a car radio for mercedes with canbus
And I think the problem is this canbus
I have no yellow thread!
On my quadlock i
Pinout 9 small brown thread
********** 10 nothing
********** 11 small brown / red thread
********** 12 thick brown thread -
********** 13 (2) yellow / black wire
********** 14 nothing
********** 15 large red thread +
********** 16 small blue / black thread
thank you !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
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Hi @titof3b
Hi
maybe the following pics could help you
I don't think you can use at the same time both connector.
But if you have both, i think that is to feet to different vehicule.
For the quadlock, i found information here : http://www.tehnomagazin.com/Auto-radio-car-connector/MERCEDES-Car-Radio-Wiring-Connector.htm
If the picture of the quadlock is correct, look at the block A2:
pin 12 = GND
pin 15= +12V (in the doc it says switched= acc) but for you, connect to 12v perm to supply the HU.
tipouce said:
Hi @titof3b
Hi
maybe the following pics could help you
I don't think you can use at the same time both connector.
But if you have both, i think that is to feet to different vehicule.
For the quadlock, i found information here : http://www.tehnomagazin.com/Auto-radio-car-connector/MERCEDES-Car-Radio-Wiring-Connector.htm
If the picture of the quadlock is correct, look at the block A2:
pin 12 = GND
pin 15= +12V (in the doc it says switched= acc) but for you, connect to 12v perm to supply the HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, if I put the - to 12
And the + to the 15 ca does not light ...
It is not because of the canbus that has in it?
There is a canbus in for mercedes viano ...
Maybe because of that?
titof3b said:
Hello, if I put the - to 12
And the + to the 15 ca does not light ...
It is not because of the canbus that has in it?
There is a canbus in for mercedes viano ...
Maybe because of that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are probably right.
Lately i had to test a original car stereo citroen with ISO connector but i coudn't start it even with 12/12 acc because of the canbus.
did you try the ISO connector?
tipouce said:
You are probably right.
Lately i had to test a original car stereo citroen with ISO connector but i coudn't start it even with 12/12 acc because of the canbus.
did you try the ISO connector?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I tested the ISO connections of the other dimensions
Black to ground
Red and yellow together and it's the same
He does not want to turn on either
I must pass before the canbus ....
Hey, looking for some help.
Basically I have an M7 (been happily married to it for nearly 4 years) and cracked the screen on it a few days back. Looked at some teardown videos and decided that id have a go at replacing it myself (new screen of ebay for £16, why not? Also decided that since id have the phone open I would swap out the camera module to try and rid myself of the purple). So long story short, i stripped it down, done everything I needed to do and assembled it all back together again and now when i press the power button nothing happens.
Tried holding it in for 30+ seconds, tried it with vol +/- buttons
When plugged into charge nothing appears on screen and no LEDs at top
When connected to laptop it registers usb connection but doesn't appear in device manager
Wondering if anyone could suggest some 'common' problems during rebuild that may be preventing it from powering on? I have been around all the ribbon connections, they all look good. The wires from the daughter board are all reconnected in their right places, the battery connection is plugged in, the power button too.
Any suggestions welcome
Update- okay so I've upgraded phone and this is still just lying around and I'm keen to get it going just for my own satisfaction more than anything else. The position I'm in now is that when connected to charge the screen displays the charging symbol and %. So my conclusion is that the screen in fact works and the battery is connected. So my next thought logically would turn to the switch? If the switch is busted this won't allow the phone to power up but is there a way to bypass the switch and see or do I just need to replace that part and see what happens?
Am I also corrected in assuming that if the battery is charging and showing the symbol and percentage that the motherboard is working or would it show that even if the motherboard was compromised?
Again any advice will be appreciated
hendo141 said:
Update- okay so I've upgraded phone and this is still just lying around and I'm keen to get it going just for my own satisfaction more than anything else. The position I'm in now is that when connected to charge the screen displays the charging symbol and %. So my conclusion is that the screen in fact works and the battery is connected. So my next thought logically would turn to the switch? If the switch is busted this won't allow the phone to power up but is there a way to bypass the switch and see or do I just need to replace that part and see what happens?
Am I also corrected in assuming that if the battery is charging and showing the symbol and percentage that the motherboard is working or would it show that even if the motherboard was compromised?
Again any advice will be appreciated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm also thinking of a bad power switch, maybe the flex cable? Battery charging is handled by the recovery kernel so I don't see any reason to suspect a bad MB atm. It's always hard to help ppl in your situation, without being able to see the device. It can be anything that was damaged during the repair Afaik, there is nothing you can do to power on the phone without a working button.
alray said:
I'm also thinking of a bad power switch, maybe the flex cable? Battery charging is handled by the recovery kernel so I don't see any reason to suspect a bad MB atm. It's always hard to help ppl in your situation, without being able to see the device. It can be anything that was damaged during the repair Afaik, there is nothing you can do to power on the phone without a working button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your input. Glad im thinking along the right lines at least. A new switch is only a couple of pounds so i'll take a chance on changing that if you reckon that the rest of the components should be in working order. I'll update on the outcome
So a new power switch was not the answer
Just trying to think where to look next. Sorry im still pretty much a noob when it comes to the actual inners of a phone but ive taken a photo and circled areas where I suspect there may have been damage.
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The small silver wire to the right of the camera unit, not sure what it does but it looks to be a link between the MB and DB. Pretty sure i kinked that while rebuilding.
The big flex to the left of the camera, this looks to be the main link between the MB/DB. Not sure if this is damaged but ive highlighted it as the outer edge is a little rough (not sure if this would be enough damage to stop it from working?)
Finally there is the bottom left flex. The one in the middle above the main battery connection. I done a little damage in the teardown and broke a bit of the clip (again not sure if this damage would stop it from working since the contacts seem to be fine). Not 100% on what this flex does but it looks like it serves the bottom end of the phone (usb terminal, mic, speaker etc...)
Once again all input welcome and appreciated,
hendo141 said:
So a new power switch was not the answer
Just trying to think where to look next. Sorry im still pretty much a noob when it comes to the actual inners of a phone but ive taken a photo and circled areas where I suspect there may have been damage.
The small silver wire to the right of the camera unit, not sure what it does but it looks to be a link between the MB and DB. Pretty sure i kinked that while rebuilding.
The big flex to the left of the camera, this looks to be the main link between the MB/DB. Not sure if this is damaged but ive highlighted it as the outer edge is a little rough (not sure if this would be enough damage to stop it from working?)
Finally there is the bottom left flex. The one in the middle above the main battery connection. I done a little damage in the teardown and broke a bit of the clip (again not sure if this damage would stop it from working since the contacts seem to be fine). Not 100% on what this flex does but it looks like it serves the bottom end of the phone (usb terminal, mic, speaker etc...)
Once again all input welcome and appreciated,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could be anything like a damaged cable, connector or even ESD damage. Btw I don't really understand why you didn't mentioned your damaged cable/connector before, I would replace parts that I know they got damaged during the repair before trying other parts...
Don't waste to much money on this, you can find the M7 for less than 100$ on ebay
Hello, first of all I introduce myself, this is my first post so if you are not in the right thread, I apologize.
I commented: I have a bmw e46 to which to install a screen from aliexpress, I installed the reverse camera, connecting the reverse lights so that it has power when reversing. The problem is that it does not put the image back automatically if not that I have to manually open the AV application. My question is if it is a configuration issue or wiring, since a red cable that comes along with the RCA in the part near the radio I have not connected it because I do not know which cable to connect it, none of these are labeled to know which is indicated.
Can someone help me please? Thank you
Probably u have got more input cabels take a picture of them In my radio I've got 3 video IN cables I'll need to check all of them Maybe this picture can help u how to connect it:
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szop44 said:
Probably u have got more input cabels take a picture of them In my radio I've got 3 video IN cables I'll need to check all of them Maybe this picture can help u how to connect it:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, if I remember correctly I have 3 RCA video cables, and I currently have the camera connected to the only one that got the image to be seen on the screen, but I do not remember how this cable was labeled. Can you think of any ideas to solve my problem? Thank you very much!
SrGarcia94 said:
Hello, first of all I introduce myself, this is my first post so if you are not in the right thread, I apologize.
I commented: I have a bmw e46 to which to install a screen from aliexpress, I installed the reverse camera, connecting the reverse lights so that it has power when reversing. The problem is that it does not put the image back automatically if not that I have to manually open the AV application. My question is if it is a configuration issue or wiring, since a red cable that comes along with the RCA in the part near the radio I have not connected it because I do not know which cable to connect it, none of these are labeled to know which is indicated.
Can someone help me please? Thank you
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just wired up an audi a3 reverse camera - connecting to reverse light power doesn't work as canbus kills it - as it was wired in tailgate i bought 12v 30 amp 4 pin relay taking 12v + main from wiper motor - reverse 12v + then only activates relay which then switches to 12v wiper motor power and bypasses canbus - 12v earth/negative connects to bodywork to stop interference on screen - relay with socket & wires is around £6 off fleabay - pin 86 is 12v + from reverse light - pin 85 is earth/ground - pin 87 is 12v + to camera - pin 30 is 12v + from wiper motor (if you have 12v cigarette lighter socket in boot you can use that instead of wiper motor) if your camera came with red wire at each end you might have to connect pin 87 to this also and screen side possibly has reverse sense for red wire to connect also
SrGarcia994 said:
Yes, if I remember correctly I have 3 RCA video cables, and I currently have the camera connected to the only one that got the image to be seen on the screen, but I do not remember how this cable was labeled. Can you think of any ideas to solve my problem? Thank you very much!
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SO u connect it to wrong cable When u choose correct, u shouldn't see image manually on the screen Also it was very important to connect camera power to reverse light power and second side of signal cable to this PINK one from radio (99% it should be pink )
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szop44 said:
SO u connect it to wrong cable When u choose correct, u shouldn't see image manually on the screen Also it was very important to connect camera power to reverse light power and second side of signal cable to this PINK one from radio (99% it should be pink )
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My cables subirimagen . me / uploads / 20170910055508 . PNG
Orange was KEY1 and red one?
szop44 said:
Orange was KEY1 and red one?
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The red wire you point has no name tag
SrGarcia994 said:
The red wire you point has no name tag
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+1 post count is the reseller able to offer support, such as a wiring diagram?
marchnz said:
+1 post count is the reseller able to offer support, such as a wiring diagram?
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I tried to help the seller, but I think he has less idea than I, since every time he tells me something different and meaningless