How to connect ca radio in his house please - MTCB Android Head Units General

help me please
I would like to connect my car stereo to me
On a 12 Volt power supply
But I can not get the job does not light up
It is this model the ----> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wkze3S3ZJk
How do they turn on the radio at home ??
In my car it lights up, but not at home on a transformer of 12 Volts
Thank you for your help please
Titof3b

titof3b said:
help me please
I would like to connect my car stereo to me
On a 12 Volt power supply
But I can not get the job does not light up
It is this model the ----> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wkze3S3ZJk
How do they turn on the radio at home ??
In my car it lights up, but not at home on a transformer of 12 Volts
Thank you for your help please
Titof3b
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Connect red+yellow wires to the +12v and black wire to the - of your power supply.

tipouce said:
Hi,
Connect red+yellow wires to the +12v and black wire to the - of your power supply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Little more than that....
One of those colored wires (red or yellow) will probably be THICKER than the other. That one should be PERMANENTLY tied to +12. Put an on-off switch on the other.

tipouce said:
Hi,
Connect red+yellow wires to the +12v and black wire to the - of your power supply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, and thank you very much to answer me
It's not that simple.
It is a car radio for mercedes with canbus
And I think the problem is this canbus
I have no yellow thread!
On my quadlock i
Pinout 9 small brown thread
********** 10 nothing
********** 11 small brown / red thread
********** 12 thick brown thread -
********** 13 (2) yellow / black wire
********** 14 nothing
********** 15 large red thread +
********** 16 small blue / black thread
thank you !

titof3b said:
Hello, and thank you very much to answer me
It's not that simple.
It is a car radio for mercedes with canbus
And I think the problem is this canbus
I have no yellow thread!
On my quadlock i
Pinout 9 small brown thread
********** 10 nothing
********** 11 small brown / red thread
********** 12 thick brown thread -
********** 13 (2) yellow / black wire
********** 14 nothing
********** 15 large red thread +
********** 16 small blue / black thread
thank you !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
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Hi @titof3b
Hi
maybe the following pics could help you
I don't think you can use at the same time both connector.
But if you have both, i think that is to feet to different vehicule.
For the quadlock, i found information here : http://www.tehnomagazin.com/Auto-radio-car-connector/MERCEDES-Car-Radio-Wiring-Connector.htm
If the picture of the quadlock is correct, look at the block A2:
pin 12 = GND
pin 15= +12V (in the doc it says switched= acc) but for you, connect to 12v perm to supply the HU.

tipouce said:
Hi @titof3b
Hi
maybe the following pics could help you
I don't think you can use at the same time both connector.
But if you have both, i think that is to feet to different vehicule.
For the quadlock, i found information here : http://www.tehnomagazin.com/Auto-radio-car-connector/MERCEDES-Car-Radio-Wiring-Connector.htm
If the picture of the quadlock is correct, look at the block A2:
pin 12 = GND
pin 15= +12V (in the doc it says switched= acc) but for you, connect to 12v perm to supply the HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, if I put the - to 12
And the + to the 15 ca does not light ...
It is not because of the canbus that has in it?
There is a canbus in for mercedes viano ...
Maybe because of that?

titof3b said:
Hello, if I put the - to 12
And the + to the 15 ca does not light ...
It is not because of the canbus that has in it?
There is a canbus in for mercedes viano ...
Maybe because of that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are probably right.
Lately i had to test a original car stereo citroen with ISO connector but i coudn't start it even with 12/12 acc because of the canbus.
did you try the ISO connector?

tipouce said:
You are probably right.
Lately i had to test a original car stereo citroen with ISO connector but i coudn't start it even with 12/12 acc because of the canbus.
did you try the ISO connector?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I tested the ISO connections of the other dimensions
Black to ground
Red and yellow together and it's the same
He does not want to turn on either
I must pass before the canbus ....

Related

Brodit mount

Anyone used the brodit car mount for this?
It looks like it allows the x1 to slide out the keyboard which means it grips between the screen and keyboard, is ti going to put stress on the X1 sliding mechanism (whe closed I can imaging it pushes the screen away from the keyboard as It's between them).
Also, It seems daft to me that the phone slides in vertically and then you turn it sideways and plug in the mini usb cable, it should be landscape in the first place and you slide the phone in on it's side and it could have the mini usb as part of the cradle... Anyone know a mount like this?
This is their mount:
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and this is what I'd like to see:
Thanks,
- Anthony
This is the very car mount that I'm looking at getting. I've had a Brodit mount before and it has rotation for the grip so you can choose which way around to have it. Chances are that I'll have it permanently in landscape as TomTom7 VGA landscape looks lovely.
Yeah, it'll be a good mount, but I'm just used to sliding in my phone and not having to pluig in a seperate cable for charging it (see how I added the usb charger to the photoshop I did?), I suggested it to brodit and they said no...
I just bought myself one of these, seems like a very good solid product so far.
It does indeed slide between the two 'halves' of the phone, it's a pretty snug fit but not too snug and it's on a ball and socket style joint so you can have the phone in any orientation you can think of!
I have one of these too and the bit where the phone slides in is very well precision machined so the phone slides in nicely but wont fall out. Landscape works fine and there is no danger in the phone falling out.
i mostly used tomtom in portrait mode as I think its more functional that way - more interested in whats ahead of you than to the sides and the status bar takes up too much of the screen real-estate in landscape mode.
Yes the power connector is annoying, and I found it fidly to get in at first, no I am used to it though I can insert the connector easily. I guess this is a draw-back in putting the connector on the side of the phone.
Although I can hear tomtom ok I find that using speaker phone in the mount is hard to hear somtimes, I think the speaker may be obscurred by the mount slightly, I might try drilling a hole in the mount to see if it makes any difference.
I'm using this mount and I love it. I like how the phone rotates so the keyboard is sliding down, so that the USB port is actually facing down, so its actually more convient to plug in the car charger. also makes texting on the go easy too but garmin displays nicely. Only thing I'm working on is either connecting the phone to my headunit for the phone speaker or getting bluetooth for my deck. I tried using the phone with speaker phoen while driving and its just not loud enough.
I too use this mount, I had to purchase a 2nd back piece as I had to move it from one car to another, but then ended up not using it because where it mounted is right where I put the switch for my DVD bypass, I instead ended up just screwing the X1 mount directly to the dash underneath the switch, It still came out looking pretty clean tho. If I had to guess, I'd say that they won't make a mount like the one you requested because the back part of the X1 mount with the wires in it I'm sure is used in as many different phone mounts as they can get away with. Making a new part specifically only for one phone would probably not be cost effective for them until the X1's sales approach Iphone levels.
That being said, I feel the need to show off a little, so here's a couple pics of my install:
The line in jack is coming out of the 6th (dummy) button and runs to the back of the radio. I'm considering shortening the power wire so I don't have to wrap it around the mount to keep it neat.
I'd be very interested to see how other people have integrated their X1's into their vehicles.
Hi,
Just picked one of these up and fitted to my existing Brodit mount over the air vents.
Whilst I have tightened up the screw holding the holder to the mount unit to make swivelling tighter it still rotates smoothly from portrait to landscape positions.
Phone fits in sweet as a nut although I have on a couple of times turned the camera on!
I think it is excellent. The only minor concern maybe the use of a non SE charger unit and I can see the battery getting quite warm!!
Des. . .
trinode said:
and this is what I'd like to see:
Thanks,
- Anthony
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd like to see this too!
I don't want to plug in a seperate USB plug and in the way anthony suggests it isn't necessary either.
it's a shame Brodit didn't pick up this idea as they make good car holders in general
Hopufully some other manufacturer will pick up the idea soon...

[Guide] USB port replacement

Hi guys, as some of you may have seen my earlier post about my problem with the USB port, here is some guide on how to replace it.
This is the link to my problem with the USB port:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1634683
Surprisingly enough, by simply changing the USB flex, it will fix the problem.
The USB flex looks something like this
http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-incredible-s-charging-connector-flex-cable/
You can get it off ebay with the keyword 'incredible s usb flex'
As you know, when you do this your warranty will be VOIDED
First of all I take no responsibility if you device is damaged, you get hurt during the process, or your dog eat your phone, etc etc. Do this on your OWN RISK
Heres the guide on how to open the phone:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/68923799/HTC%20Incredible%20S%20Dissassembly%20-%20Reassembly.pdf
Here is some quick guide on what is relevant to changing the usb flex:
Tools that you need:
-Torx Screw driver T6 (* screwdriver)
-Phillips Scew Driver 00 (Its a really small + screwdriver)
-Tweezers
-Anti static wrist strap
Procedure:
-Step 0 wear the anti static wrist strap
-First remove the battery cover
-Pull out the batter,SIM card, and microSD
-Remove 7 torx screws
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-Open the housing, this can be a little but tricky, just make sure you are gentle with the side, and NEVER pry from the USB port. You might also wanna check for some latches around the phone, make sure you loosen it first before crack open it.
-Remove the volume rocker plastics and the usb housing shield
-Next remove 2 phillips screw on the motherboard (Make sure you remember the position of the screw on the left picture, the first time i did, i put the screw back in the wrong hole)
-When you remove the phillip screw on the right, the headphone housing will come off, make sure you don't lose them.
-Take out the vibrator (you don't have to disconnect them, just remove it from the housing)
-Remove 2 stickers on top of the flex connector
-In the picture above, I indicated the flex connector lock in RED circle. Lift that lock upward very gently, then pull the flex out of the connector. (total of 2 locks and 2 flex)
-Next lift the motherboard, this can be tricky, make sure you lift it from the top side of your phone, and wiggle the motherboard gently toward right direction. The thing that secures the motherboard the the chassis is the housing of the vibrator. Do this carefully as motherboard is a bit fragile.
-Next flip the motherboard around, you have to be careful, there is a flex that connect the lcd to the motherboard, you don't need to remove them, just flip it.
-After you flip the motherboard you will see the usb board, just remove the sticker, unlock the lock, remove the board, replace it with the new one.
You are DONE! Reverse the procedure to assemble and you are good to GO!
If you follow all of my procedure, the only possible problem that you will have is:
-Black screen (The long flex is not secured tightly)
-Home,menu,back,search button didn't light up (The short flex is not secured tightly)
If you have any question just post a quick reply or PM me
Hope this post will help some fellas that have a problem with USB port, if you like it please hit the thanks button.
So...after flapping about for over a year I finally got around to fixing my old HTC. It worked a treat...charging properly and being recognised by the computer again...but THEN, after 3 days of perfect operation, the bloody touchscreen stops responding....new messages pop up and sit there taunting me while I swipe about to no avail.
I've tried few things suggested by the internet, including the one where you hit the screen corners, but no luck.
Is it possible that ive loosened a connection somewhere when I changed the USB flex or is it just a really annoying unrelated coincidence and I should just accept that my phone had reached the end of its life?

Bluetooth Fix - Hardware

Ok I've figured out the Bluetooth and wifi problems.
There are two boards in the ZR. Main board 1 has CPU and most stuff. Second board 2 seems to just act as a sound card/connector board.
The second board has conductive contacts to the top board (bluetooth) and to the WiFi aerial in the frame.
However, second board is not glued or fixed in position, it is free to pivot and move toward and away from frame and main board. This means over time or with knocks, heat etc. the second board tilts, disconnecting the contacts. Bluetooth and WiFi both go because the connections are in opposite corners, though WiFi has better contact because the board is better positioned in that corner.
It was an Idiot who designed this connection, the second board should have been sitting on plastic shelf or spacers, not floating around in there.
FIX
You'll need to open phone - guide here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vz7Dwu_ItpM.
You don't need to disconnect second board. I used stacks of the screen adhesive and placed under the corners of the second board. This holds second board in position and forces up against top board. You'll need to experiment with the right height of the stacks. In addition I suggest placing conductive copper tape squares on the second board's conductive square (2) and the frame's two conductive squares under the opposite corner.
Reassemble, test and see if it's fixed. :fingers-crossed:
I've attached pictures showing the bluetooth pin 1 that needs to contact the conductive plate 2.
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My Bluetooth and wifi are now fixed. Yay.
PS, don't blame me if this doesn't work for you or if you break screen disassembling.
Is your bluetooth still working ??
wifi
if you please tell me where is the wifi position?
Sold phone, presume so.
ady3004 said:
if you please tell me where is the wifi position?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wifi is under bottom board in opposite corner to the square labeled 2. I think there are two pins under there.
Silverdace said:
Wifi is under bottom board in opposite corner to the square labeled 2. I think there are two pins under there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bottom right corner when looking at the picture.

Opel Astra J physical dash board buttons

Does anyone know if its possible to change what each buttons function is? Same with the steering wheel buttons ? The buttons works fine but i would like to change some of them. I have a canbus decoder box on the HU. Under the the setting "Steering wheel control" nothing shows up when i press a button. I can see on the screen when i open a door and the control for fans etc. is also showing on the screen so i guess the canbus is ok
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I am also interested about this, especially I would like to reverse the functions of the physical keys next/previous, next to the volume wheel.
In the factory settings menu, I've put the flag on the "SWAP CANBUS NEXT PREV", but it only affects the wheel on the steering ...
I have a MTCB radio, but I think there are no differences about this... I can confirm that even in my case the wheel study configuration doesn't seem to work
daverock said:
I am also interested about this, especially I would like to reverse the functions of the physical keys next/previous, next to the volume wheel.
In the factory settings menu, I've put the flag on the "SWAP CANBUS NEXT PREV", but it only affects the wheel on the steering ...
I have a MTCB radio, but I think there are no differences about this... I can confirm that even in my case the wheel study configuration doesn't seem to work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes i got the same thing. The wheel study config doesn't seem to work. Nothing show up in there. And if i go under Steering wheel controle, same thing. Nothing show ups. I have triede to contact my seller but doesn't seem they want to reply to my questions regarding this.
Is your unit a "MX" version?
almera020 said:
Is your unit a "MX" version?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I have an old MTCC-KLD6-V2.97 800*480
almera020 said:
Does anyone know if its possible to change what each buttons function is? Same with the steering wheel buttons ? The buttons works fine but i would like to change some of them. I have a canbus decoder box on the HU. Under the the setting "Steering wheel control" nothing shows up when i press a button. I can see on the screen when i open a door and the control for fans etc. is also showing on the screen so i guess the canbus is ok
Hi,
I have a never system V5754 and my issue is that the section of buttons you have marked with the red box are not powered at all!!! There are 4 connectors to this front panel (ESP, Parking sensor, AC control and one for power I guess) and If I understand correct all these connections come directly from old cable harness. But in the new HU there seem to be one, single pin connector (a big connector) which dose'nt seem to connect anyhwere? Do you any experience in this part?
Also I see this wierd window down icon on the dash display (driver section). I have set the Canbus to 05_GM (Raise).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
vinai_cv said:
almera020 said:
Does anyone know if its possible to change what each buttons function is? Same with the steering wheel buttons ? The buttons works fine but i would like to change some of them. I have a canbus decoder box on the HU. Under the the setting "Steering wheel control" nothing shows up when i press a button. I can see on the screen when i open a door and the control for fans etc. is also showing on the screen so i guess the canbus is ok
Hi,
I have a never system V5754 and my issue is that the section of buttons you have marked with the red box are not powered at all!!! There are 4 connectors to this front panel (ESP, Parking sensor, AC control and one for power I guess) and If I understand correct all these connections come directly from old cable harness. But in the new HU there seem to be one, single pin connector (a big connector) which dose'nt seem to connect anyhwere? Do you any experience in this part?
Also I see this wierd window down icon on the dash display (driver section). I have set the Canbus to 05_GM (Raise).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same issue, with the radio buttons (as in your picture) with my opel asta j 2010 and a new android 9.0 unit.
I have connected those 4 cables as you mentioned, and I too have that single pin connector from the new harness, that I did not connect to anything. Please see below 3 pictures with how it looks:
I have the same issue, with the radio buttons (as in your picture) with my opel asta j 2010 and a new android 9.0 unit:
I have connected those 4 cables as you mentioned, and I too have that single pin connector from the new harness, that I did not connect to anything.
Did you manage to solve the issue? I have not changed anything in the factory settings (canbus settings) yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi ciumetele,
I for help from Minakurah and he suggested me to follow this procedure.
i cant see your pictures but i had the same problem. There is one cable left you didnt plug in.
Its a single brown cable with a big fat cube at the end. You have to put this cable back behind the head unit display and plug it with the cable which plug is black with a white corner. This cable is normally plugged to the display of old CD400 system.
Then everything is fine and all your problems solved at once.
ciumetele said:
vinai_cv said:
I have the same issue, with the radio buttons (as in your picture) with my opel asta j 2010 and a new android 9.0 unit.
I have connected those 4 cables as you mentioned, and I too have that single pin connector from the new harness, that I did not connect to anything. Please see below 3 pictures with how it looks:
I have the same issue, with the radio buttons (as in your picture) with my opel asta j 2010 and a new android 9.0 unit:
I have connected those 4 cables as you mentioned, and I too have that single pin connector from the new harness, that I did not connect to anything.
Did you manage to solve the issue? I have not changed anything in the factory settings (canbus settings) yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Support rear view camera

Hello, first of all I introduce myself, this is my first post so if you are not in the right thread, I apologize.
I commented: I have a bmw e46 to which to install a screen from aliexpress, I installed the reverse camera, connecting the reverse lights so that it has power when reversing. The problem is that it does not put the image back automatically if not that I have to manually open the AV application. My question is if it is a configuration issue or wiring, since a red cable that comes along with the RCA in the part near the radio I have not connected it because I do not know which cable to connect it, none of these are labeled to know which is indicated.
Can someone help me please? Thank you
Probably u have got more input cabels take a picture of them In my radio I've got 3 video IN cables I'll need to check all of them Maybe this picture can help u how to connect it:
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szop44 said:
Probably u have got more input cabels take a picture of them In my radio I've got 3 video IN cables I'll need to check all of them Maybe this picture can help u how to connect it:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, if I remember correctly I have 3 RCA video cables, and I currently have the camera connected to the only one that got the image to be seen on the screen, but I do not remember how this cable was labeled. Can you think of any ideas to solve my problem? Thank you very much!
SrGarcia94 said:
Hello, first of all I introduce myself, this is my first post so if you are not in the right thread, I apologize.
I commented: I have a bmw e46 to which to install a screen from aliexpress, I installed the reverse camera, connecting the reverse lights so that it has power when reversing. The problem is that it does not put the image back automatically if not that I have to manually open the AV application. My question is if it is a configuration issue or wiring, since a red cable that comes along with the RCA in the part near the radio I have not connected it because I do not know which cable to connect it, none of these are labeled to know which is indicated.
Can someone help me please? Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
just wired up an audi a3 reverse camera - connecting to reverse light power doesn't work as canbus kills it - as it was wired in tailgate i bought 12v 30 amp 4 pin relay taking 12v + main from wiper motor - reverse 12v + then only activates relay which then switches to 12v wiper motor power and bypasses canbus - 12v earth/negative connects to bodywork to stop interference on screen - relay with socket & wires is around £6 off fleabay - pin 86 is 12v + from reverse light - pin 85 is earth/ground - pin 87 is 12v + to camera - pin 30 is 12v + from wiper motor (if you have 12v cigarette lighter socket in boot you can use that instead of wiper motor) if your camera came with red wire at each end you might have to connect pin 87 to this also and screen side possibly has reverse sense for red wire to connect also
SrGarcia994 said:
Yes, if I remember correctly I have 3 RCA video cables, and I currently have the camera connected to the only one that got the image to be seen on the screen, but I do not remember how this cable was labeled. Can you think of any ideas to solve my problem? Thank you very much!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
SO u connect it to wrong cable When u choose correct, u shouldn't see image manually on the screen Also it was very important to connect camera power to reverse light power and second side of signal cable to this PINK one from radio (99% it should be pink )
[/IMG]
szop44 said:
SO u connect it to wrong cable When u choose correct, u shouldn't see image manually on the screen Also it was very important to connect camera power to reverse light power and second side of signal cable to this PINK one from radio (99% it should be pink )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My cables subirimagen . me / uploads / 20170910055508 . PNG
Orange was KEY1 and red one?
szop44 said:
Orange was KEY1 and red one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The red wire you point has no name tag
SrGarcia994 said:
The red wire you point has no name tag
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 post count is the reseller able to offer support, such as a wiring diagram?
marchnz said:
+1 post count is the reseller able to offer support, such as a wiring diagram?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried to help the seller, but I think he has less idea than I, since every time he tells me something different and meaningless

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